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- Subject: rec.pets.cats: Getting A Cat FAQ
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- =======
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- ==========
-
-
- Getting a Cat
-
- Note: Please see the [1]Table of Contents FAQ for a complete list of
- topics.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Author
-
- Originally written 1991 & updated through 1997 by Cindy Tittle Moore.
- Maintained by the Fanciers website as of July 1999.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Should You Get a Cat?
-
- Your cat will depend on you throughout its life, and with proper care
- may live 15 years or more. Are you willing and able to care properly
- for it and provide a stable home for that long? An astonishingly high
- percentage of cats change owners at least once in their lifetimes, and
- that does not count those that didn't make it out of the shelter.
-
- Don't get a cat without prior budgeting for vet visits and other
- costs. Normal veterinary care includes yearly shots and boosters,
- tests for worms, and examination for typical diseases as needed. This
- will run about US$100-$300 a year. This, of course, depends on your
- vet and on the health of your cat. Preventive and consistent care is
- less expensive in the long run.
-
- If you cannot afford veterinary care for a cat, you should not get
- one. Do not think that you can get a cat and never see the vet. Annual
- shots and examinations are a must for keeping your cat healthy;
- certain vaccinations are required by law in different areas.
-
- Other routine costs include cat food, cat litter, litter pans and
- scoops, and other cat paraphernalia such as scratching posts and cat
- trees.
-
- Most life changes shouldn't affect your ability to give a cat a good
- home. Some people think they must give up a cat when they move, but
- that's not true. It is relatively easy to move with a cat, even if you
- are moving cross country or overseas.
-
- However, if you expect that you will soon be in a situation where you
- will have to give up your cat, consider spending time with friends'
- cats instead of getting your own . It can be very difficult or
- impossible to find a home for your adult cat if you ever have to give
- it up.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- What Kind of Cat
-
- Many people are attracted to cats or kittens because of their looks.
- Consider her characteristics as well, since the kitten you choose
- today may be a member of your family for 15 years or more. Are you
- looking for a very active, playful cat? Do you need a cat that will be
- especially gentle with children or elderly people? One that won't be
- frightened by a barking dog? Or a calm, affectionate cat that will
- sleep on your bed at night?
-
- Kitten or adult
-
- Consider adopting an adult cat. An adult cat already has a fully
- developed personality, so you know what you're getting. Adult cats
- generally adapt just fine to new homes, and "bond" just as strongly
- with new owners as kittens do. Also, adult cats are much less likely
- to be adopted -- most people want to adopt cute little kittens.
-
- Kittens are terminally cute, but they can have many disadvantages.
- They require more care and watching over, they may not have the litter
- box down yet, and they go through a wild phase at around 6 months of
- age when they are unstoppable bundles of energy. Kittens need several
- trips to the veterinarian for vaccinations, checkups, and finally,
- neutering or spaying. Perhaps most important, it is difficult to
- predict what a kitten will turn out like when it grows up, in both
- looks and behavior.
-
- If you do decide to get a kitten, try not to get one that is too
- young. Kittens should not be separated from their mother and
- littermates until they are at least 8 to 10 weeks old. Many breeders
- do not sell kittens until they are 14 to 16 weeks old, when the immune
- system is fully developed.
-
- Male or female
-
- Neutered males and spayed females make equally good companions.
- Although some people insist on cats of one sex or the other, cats
- actually vary in personality independently of their sex. Neither sex
- is uniformly more affectionate, more intelligent, more calm, or more
- playful.
-
- Unaltered cats of either sex, however, can be difficult to live with.
- Unneutered males "spray" a foul smelling urine on the walls and
- furniture. If allowed outdoors, they will roam and fight with other
- cats. Unspayed females may also spray, and usually "call" when they
- are in heat; this is an incessant yowling that will drive you and your
- neighbors to despair! Neutered and spayed cats make much more pleasant
- companions.
-
- One cat or two
-
- Many people recommend getting two cats instead of one. A single cat
- can get lonely and bored. Two cats keep each other company, especially
- during the day while you're away. They tend to get into less trouble.
- And they're fun to watch together.
-
- Kinds of cats
-
- Most cats do not belong to any particular breed. These cats are often
- called "mixed breed" cats. They are also known as "domestic
- shorthairs" or "domestic longhairs." Domestic shorthairs and longhairs
- vary tremendously in looks and personality. They come in a wide
- variety of color patterns and may sometimes closely resemble specific
- breeds even when they are not. Each one has its own unique
- personality, regardless of what color it is or how long its hair is.
-
- Domestic shorthairs and longhairs are easy to acquire. In fact, many
- cats and kittens are killed at animal shelters because there are more
- cats than there is demand.
-
- Purebred cats are uncommon, estimated at between 1% and 3% of all
- cats. There are about 40 recognized cat breeds. Each breed consists of
- a closely related group of cats with similar looks and personality.
- For example, typical Siamese are slender, active, people-oriented cats
- that tend to vocalize a lot. Not all Siamese have these
- characteristics, but most do. A purebred kitten will probably grow up
- to be typical of its breed in looks and personality; a non-purebred
- kitten may turn out quite different from what you expect.
-
- Many people are attracted to purebreds because they want a cat with a
- particular color, size, or hair length. For example, you might be
- interested in Russian Blues because you like the blue-gray color, or
- you might be interested in Maine Coons because you want a big shaggy
- cat. But it's not necessary to buy a purebred to get these physical
- characteristics. You can find blue-gray cats, or big shaggy cats, or
- cats of any other size and description, at your local animal shelter.
- If you're more interested in specific personalities, a purebred might
- be more predicatable: while any personality type can be found among
- the non-purebred population, figuring out which one has which may not
- be as straightforward unless you are looking at adult cats.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Where to get a Cat
-
- Animal shelters
-
- An animal shelter is a good place to pick up a cat and save it from
- death in the bargain. Look for a clean, healthy cat. Look for signs of
- friendliness and liveliness. Talk with the people caring for the
- animals for any information on a particular animal they can give you;
- they can often tell you a lot about a cat's personality. Don't
- overlook the adult cats.
-
- At the animal shelter, be prepared to pay a fee, answer some questions
- about the home you will give the cat, and perhaps give some
- references. This is normal. The fee covers some of the costs of
- operating the animal shelter. The questions are meant to ensure that
- adopted cats go to good, stable homes.
-
- Most will require that you have the cat neutered. Some will do it
- prior to adoption, others will require you to do so within a month or
- two of adoption. THis is also normal and is intended to reduce the
- population of kittens returning to the shelter. In particular,
- shelters that neuter all outgoing animals prior to adoption have
- particularly good success with reducing the overall population of cats
- in the shelter, since compliance with these programs is 100%. Please
- neuter your cat if the shelter releases it to you unneutered.
-
- Private parties
-
- People who have to find homes for adult cats will sometimes advertise
- in the paper (or on bulletin boards at local stores or schools). These
- cats are usually well cared for and you can meet them in a home
- environment.
-
- You will also see kittens advertised in the paper. Make sure you are
- getting a healthy, well socialized kitten, don't get a kitten that is
- too young (younger than 8 weeks), and find out if the kittens' parents
- have been fixed! Try to look for people who are trying to place
- kittens that have been found, or people who have already spayed the
- mother cat after an accidental mating, rather than encouraging
- careless people to keep producing kittens. Also, if the kittens were
- born because the people don't bother to get their cat(s) fixed, they
- may not bother to feed and care for growing kittens properly, either.
-
- Responsible Breeders
-
- If you want to buy a purebred cat or kitten, you will need to look for
- a good, responsible breeder. Do not patronize pet shops or look for
- breeders in the paper, or you may end up with an unhealthy or poorly
- socialized kitten. A good way to meet breeders is at cat shows, which
- are listed in cat magazines like Cat Fancy or Cats. Cat shows are also
- a good opportunity to learn about the different breeds of cats.
-
- Try to talk to more than one breeder before buying a kitten. Look for
- honest breeders who care about their cats' welfare, and who have
- good-natured cats. Talk to breeders about inherited health problems.
- Ask about how the cats are raised. If possible, visit the cattery
- before buying a kitten. Listen to your intuitions; if you feel
- anything is "not right" about this breeder, go to another breeder.
-
- A good breeder asks you questions, too, to find out if you are a good
- home for a kitten. The breeder may also ask that you sign a contract
- requiring you to care properly for this kitten. This is normal, and is
- a sign of a responsible breeder. Expect to pay $300-400 or more for a
- "pet quality" kitten, depending on the breed and your area. Breeders
- also may have purebred adults available at low or no cost to a good
- home.
-
- The variety of purebred cats can be bewildering. [2]Breed FAQs are
- available to help you understand the differences between the various
- breeds.
-
- Pet Stores
-
- Don't buy kittens from pet stores. Pet stores are notorious for
- selling unhealthy or poorly bred purebreds, and even irresponsibly
- bred non-purebreds. Kittens sold in pet stores are outrageously
- expensive, often two to four times more expensive than the same type
- of kitten bought from a private breeder. They are often obtained from
- "kitten mills," where animals are poorly treated and bred (and bred
- and bred) for profit. By buying from the store, you are supporting
- these mills and adding to the pet overpopulation problem.
-
- Some stores claim that animals are all obtained from local breeders or
- "home raised." Employees are commonly instructed to tell customers
- that the kittens were obtained from local breeders, when in fact they
- were not. No responsible breeder would allow their kittens to be sold
- in a pet store, where they could not interview the buyer to make sure
- they are aware of the responsiblility of caring for an animal.
-
- It is further suggested that you don't even patronize such stores.
- Take your business to stores that sell pet supplies only, no puppies
- or kittens.
-
- One happy exception: Look for one of the increasing number of pet
- supply stores that work with the local shelter to help place the
- animals. These programs provide additional exposure and opportunities
- for the local shelter and are a wonderful example of constructive
- partnership for the benefit of our animals. However, make sure that
- the animals are being adopted out under the rules of the shelter
- involved.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- The First Vet Visit
-
- You should have your new cat examined by your vet to check for signs
- of disease or parasites. Ideally, and especially if you have other
- animals at home, you should arrange to have the new cat examined
- before you bring it home.
-
- The vet should check the cat's temperature; look for fleas, flea eggs,
- ear mites, and signs of ringworm; check for overall health and
- liveliness; and update the cat's vaccinations if necessary. It's also
- a good idea to have the vet test the cat for common illnesses.
-
- If your new cat is not already neutered or spayed, talk to your vet
- about when would be a good time to schedule the neuter/spay surgery.
- Don't assume that your cat or kitten is too young for the surgery; new
- research shows that neutering and spaying as young as 7 weeks has no
- adverse affects on the cat's physical and social development.
-
- Recommended Vaccinations
-
- Young kittens need a series of vaccinations ("kitten shots") to help
- protect them from feline Herpesvirus (Rhinotracheitis), Calicivirus,
- and Panleukopenia. Many commonly given kitten shots also protect
- against Chlamydia. For the best immune response, the kitten shots are
- given at three- or four-week intervals from age 7 or 9 weeks to age 14
- or 16 weeks.
-
- If your new cat is a rescued adult or older kitten, it may not have
- had its shots as a young kitten. In that case, your vet may need to
- start the vaccination series at the first vet visit.
-
- Rabies shots are a good idea if you plan to let your cat out. Rabies
- is onthe rise in wild animals, especially raccoons. Rabies shots are
- also required in many states. The initial rabies shot can be given at
- age 16 weeks.
-
- Many people also vaccinate their cats against Feline Leukemia. This
- vaccine is expensive, but it is recommended if your cat goes outdoors.
-
- There is a relatively new vaccine available now for Feline Infectious
- Peritonitis (FIP). There is some controversy over the safety and
- effectiveness of this vaccine. Many vets do not recommend its use.
-
- Recommended Tests
-
- Have your new cat tested for exposure to Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV).
- If the cat is positive, you will need to keep the cat indoors,
- separate from all other cats, or you run the risk of infecting other
- cats. See the [3]Feline Leukemia FAQ for more information.
-
- Other common tests are for Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and
- Feline Infectious Anemia (FIA).
-
- It is not possible to test directly for the deadly disease Feline
- Infectious Peritonitis (FIP). There is a test sometimes known as an
- "FIP Test," but this test actually does not test for FIP or for FIP
- virus. It tests for exposure to viruses in the coronavirus family (FIP
- is one of many coronaviruses). If you do decide to use the "FIP test,"
- be aware that its results are very difficult to interpret correctly.
- Perfectly healthy cats often test positive on this test, even if they
- have never been exposed to FIP. If your vet believes that an otherwise
- healthy cat has FIP because of a positive test result, you may want to
- seek a second opinion.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Caring for a new kitten
-
- Generally, a very young cat doesn't need the full run of an entire
- house. Use your judgement, but leaving it in one room until it is a
- little older can save both of you some anxiety. A kitten will need a
- different diet than an adult; most brands of cat food also come in
- "kitten food" versions. Kittens have small stomachs and big appetites;
- they need to be fed several times a day.
-
- Most kittens will understand how to use the litter box. Usually their
- mother teaches them, but they will pick it up easily on their own. If
- you have a too-young cat, you can teach it by confining it to one room
- so that access to the litter box is easy and putting it in the litter
- box after feeding.
-
- You might wind up with kittens too young to have been separated from
- their mother for whatever reason. If you have an orphan kitten, you
- will need to provide a warm draft-free area and use something like KMR
- (kitten milk replacer) for food, using an eyedropper. Consult your vet
- for advice and help.
-
- From kittenhood, accustom your cat to being handled. Look into its
- ears (clean, white and light pink), eyes (clear, no runniness, inner
- eyelids may blink but should remain open), nose (clean and pink (or
- its normal color) and mouth (clean, light pink gums) regularly. Hold
- it still and look at its anus; pick up its paws and look at the pads
- and claws. This will have the added benefit that you will notice any
- changes from normal quickly and be able to call up your vet if
- something is wrong.
-
- Do arrange for the kitten to meet plenty of people; this will
- socialize your cat and it will not hide from people when adult.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Introducing your new cat to other animals
-
- You may need to introduce a cat to other animals (but first make sure
- the new kitten or cat has been seen by a vet to reduce the risk of
- transmitting illnesses or parasites to your other animals). The key to
- this is patience. It may take several weeks to a month to achieve
- desired results; it may take overnight. Do not give up and don't lose
- your temper. It depends on the temperament and ages of the animals
- involved.
-
- In most cases, you can simply introduce them, let them work it out,
- and after a week or so, things are fine. However, sometimes this is a
- lengthy process that you will have to work through. In general, the
- following procedure will work:
-
- Put the cat in its own room, where the original pet can smell it,
- but not see it. After a day or so of this, remove the cat from the
- room and let the original pet smell and explore the room
- thoroughly. Put the cat back in. Depending on the reactions
- involved, let the cat out and meet the original pet under
- supervision. If there is some hostility, separate them while you
- are gone until you are certain that they get along. It is best if
- you can arrange a "retreat" for each animal.
-
- You can modify the length of time and amount of supervision as you see
- how two cats react. Some forms of cat playing can appear hostile but
- are not. Look at the ears for a clue (standing up or forward when
- grappling is trouble, flat back when standing and staring is also
- trouble). If the fighting immediately stops when one yelps or squeaks,
- they're OK.
-
- Introducing a puppy or kitten into a household with an elderly animal
- already present can be stressful to the older animal. The best way to
- handle this is to make sure the older animal does not feel threatened
- by the newcomer. Lavish attention on the older animal, not the new
- kitten. Make sure the older animal has a cozy place to retreat to, and
- undisturbed time to eat and relieve itself.
-
- A puppy introduced to a cat will quickly view it as another sort of
- dog and leave it alone or, more often, want to play with it. The cat
- will view the dog as a nuisance for some time, but will eventually
- learn to ignore it or even to play with it. Introducing a kitten to an
- older dog will depend on the dog's temperament. Many dogs are good
- with cats, such as Labs or Newfies, and will present no problems
- whatsoever. Other dogs with high prey drives may need to be taught to
- leave the kitten alone. Soon enough, the kitten will be able to get up
- out of the dog's reach when it wants to be left alone. Providing the
- cat with a place the dog can't get to is always helpful. This can be
- achieved by placing a childproof fence in the door of a room high
- enough for the cat to get under but not for the dog. Do trim the cat's
- claws to minimize damage to the dog's nose.
-
- According to humane society studies, these are some combinations of
- animals that tend to work well:
- * two kittens
- * an older kitten and a puppy
- * a pair of mature neutered animals
- * two cats
- * two dogs
- _________________________________________________________________
-
-
- Getting A Cat FAQ
-
- References
-
- 1. file://localhost/home/t/tittle/public-web/cat-faqs/table-of-contents.html
- 2. http://www.ai.mit.edu/fanciers/fanciers.html
- 3. http://www.ai.mit.edu/fanciers/other-faqs/feleuk-faq.html
-