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- ==========
-
-
- Problem Behaviors in Cats
-
- Note: Please see the [1]Table of Contents FAQ for a complete list of
- topics.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Author
-
- Originally written 1991 & updated through 1997 by Cindy Tittle Moore.
- Maintained by the Fanciers website as of July 1999.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Cats Inside
-
- You cannot discipline cats as you would dogs. Dogs form social
- hierarchies that you can take advantage of by placing yourself at the
- top. Cats form social groups only by necessity and the arrangement is
- based on respecting territory, not by respecting the "top dog". Many
- mistakes made with cats are due to thinking that they will react like
- dogs.
-
- Do not ever hit a cat or use any sort of physical punishment. You will
- only teach your cat to fear you.
- * You can train your cat not to perform inappropriate behavior by
- training your cat to perform other behavior alternative to or
- incompatible with the inappropriate behavior.
- * Since cats hate to be surprised, you can use waterbottles,
- clapping, hissing, and other sudden noises (such as snapping,
- "No!") to stop unwanted behavior. However, be aware that these
- tactics will not work when you are not present. In addition,
- immediacy is key: even seconds late may render it ineffective. You
- must do it as soon as the cat starts the behavior.
- * The face-push has been described by various readers. This consists
- of pushing the palm of your hand into the cat's face. This is best
- used when discouraging something like biting. Don't hit the cat,
- simply push its face back gently. You might accompany it with a
- "no!"
- * Making certain behaviors impossible is another tactic. Think
- "childproofing": keep food in containers; keep breakable and/or
- dangerous objects out of reach; make sure heavy objects, e.g.
- bookshelves, are stable. Look for childproofing gadgets and hints
- and think how you can apply them to preventing cat problems. Even
- when the analogy isn't perfect, physically preventing problems is
- still a good guide. E.g., defrosting meat? Put it in the
- (unheated) stove, not out on the counter.
-
- It is always best to train your cat away from undesireable behavior as
- soon as possible, as young as possible. You will have the most success
- training your cat when it is young on what is acceptable to scratch
- and what is not. Never tolerate it when it is "cute" since it will not
- always remain so.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Plants
-
- Cats are frequently fascinated with houseplants. However, you may not
- appreciate the attention, which can range from chewing on the plant
- leaves to digging or peeing in the plant soil.
-
- For chewing, try spraying Bitter Apple or Bitter Orange (there are
- formulations specifically for use on plants) on the leaves. Dusting
- cayenne pepper on them may also help. You may wish to grow some grass
- or catnip for them as an alternative; plants do provide them with
- needed nutrients (the absence of which may be causing their grazing).
-
- For digging or urinating, cover the dirt with aluminum foil or gravel.
- If the plant needs it, add some vinegar to the soil to counteract the
- ammonia in the urine.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- A New Baby
-
- Cats can become jealous upon the arrival of a new baby. Reassure the
- cat that you still love it by paying it plenty of attention. In the
- exhaustion and turmoil of a new baby, the cat is often neglected, and
- this will add to its resentment.
-
- There is a myth that cats will kill babies. The superstition is that
- they'll "steal" the baby's breath; the latter day explanation is that
- they will lie on babies and suffocate them. While cats may like the
- baby's warmth and may curl up next to it, it will not often lie on the
- baby and in any case will move when the baby begins to flail its arms
- and legs.
-
- Most cats are trustworthy around babies after getting over any
- jealousy, especially if it is trained not to use people as toys;
- however babies should never be left unsupervised around any animal.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Spraying
-
- Some cats start spraying in the house. You will want to first rule out
- any medical causes, such as FUS or cystitis. Sometimes it is useful to
- distinguish between spraying (which winds up on walls) and urinating
- (which is generally on the floor). Spraying is more often a behavior
- problem and urination is more often a medical problem. It is best to
- check with a vet first. If the problem is medical, then you will need
- to simply clean up the odor after the problem is treated, otherwise
- you will need to try some of the behavior modification outlined below
- (and you'll still need to clean up the odor).
-
- You must remove the odor from items that the cat sprayed on to prevent
- the cat from using the same spot again later. The ammonia smell tells
- the cat that this is an elimination spot, so never use ammonia to try
- and "remove" the odor! See (Removing Urine Odor).
-
- Cats sometimes spray to mark their territory so sometimes an area for
- your cat that other animals cannot go to will help. Keeping the
- litterbox immaculate will help in other cases.
-
- Sometimes cats pick small throw rugs with non-skid backing to urinate
- on. This is caused by an odor from the backing that somehow tells the
- cat to urinate there (probably an ammonia-like smell). Cat-repellent
- sprays or washing the rug may help; you might just have to get rid of
- that rug.
-
- For persistent spraying after the above steps, try the procedure
- outlined in ([2]Housetraining).
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Scratching
-
- For unwanted scratching, provide an approved scratching post or other
- item. Issue firm "no!"s on unapproved items. You may wish to spray
- Bitter Apple or Bitter Orange (available at most pet stores) on items
- that they are particularly stubborn about. Praise them and give a cat
- treat when they use the approved scratching material. Demonstrate how
- to use the post by (yes) going up to it and scratching it like your
- cat would. They will come over to investigate your scent and then
- leave their own.
-
- Pepper (black, white, or cayenne) can be applied to furniture and
- plants to discourage scratching. This does not deter all cats. You can
- also cover areas with double-sided tape (sticky on both sides) to
- discourage unwanted scratching. (Always be sure to provide an
- alternative scratching item.)
-
- In general, cats will either use a post a lot or never use it. The
- deciding factor can be the material that the post is made out of. It
- has to be fairly smooth (cats usually don't like plush carpet) and
- shouldn't be a material that their nails get stuck in. Once that
- happens, they may not use the post anymore. Natural fiber rope wrapped
- tightly around the post appeals to many cats. Some cats like plain
- wood; a two-by-four made available may work well. Other cats prefer
- the kind of "scratching posts" that are horizontal rather than
- verticle.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Furniture
-
- You may wish to keep your cat off of the furniture or off of a
- particular piece of furniture. Or to keep them off the counters and or
- tables. Because of a cat's ability to climb and jump, this isn't
- always a practical thing to do -- but you can somtimes train them to
- stay off very specifiic pieces of furniture or locations by covering
- it with aluminium foil. In most cases, a month of leaving the foil on
- when you leave the house will be effective.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Housetraining
-
- It is possible for cats to stop using the litter box or to have
- trouble learning in the first place.
-
- Do NOT ever try to discourage a cat's mistakes by rubbing its nose in
- it. It never worked for dogs and most certainly will not work for
- cats. In fact, you wind up reminding the cat of where a good place to
- eliminate is!
-
- Potential CAUSES for failure to use litterbox:
- * MEDICAL PROBLEMS:
- + diarrhea (many causes)
- o small intestinal- soft to watery
- o colitis (inflamed colon)- mucus in stool, blood,
- straining
- + urinary bladder inflammation
- o FUS
- o Bacterial infections
- o trauma
- o calculi (bladder stones)
- o tumors
- + polydipsia/polyuria
- (excessive water volume consumed and urine voided: upper
- water intake for cats is 1oz/lb; most cats drink considerably
- less than this)
- o diabetes insipidus
- o diabetes mellitus
- o kidney disease
- o liver disease
- o adrenal gland disease
- o pyometra (pus in the uterus)
- o hypercalcemia (high blood calcium)
- o others
- * TERRITORIAL MARKING
- + intact female in heat
- + intact male spraying
- + marking of peripheral walls particularly near windows may be
- from presence of outdoor cats
- + may be triggered by over-crowding of indoor cats
- + previously neutered cat has a bit of testicular or ovarian
- tissue remaining, possibly resulting in a low level of
- hormone which could trigger marking
- + neutered male with sexual experience exposed to female in
- heat
- * LITTER BOX PROBLEMS
- + overcrowding: too many cats using same box
- + failure to change littter frequently enough -- some cats
- won't use a dirty box
- + failure to provide constant access to litterbox
- + change in type of litter used
- + change in location of litterbox
- + unfamiliar, frightening, or loud objects near box:
- dishwasher, etc.
- + food and water too close to litterbox
- + objectionable chemical used to wash or disinfect litterbox
- + location preference: your cat may want the box in a different
- location
- + texture preference: your cat doesn't like the feel of the
- litter
- + failure to cover litter: learned process from parents
- o use of litterbox is instinctive
- o cats that don't cover litter may be more prone to
- litterbox problems
- o your cat may be indicating texture preference problem
- * PSYCHOLOGICAL STRESS
- (most common manifestation is inappropriate urination)
- + addition or subtraction of other pets in household
- + visitors, company, parties, redecorating, construction, or
- any type of commotion
- + a move to a new environment
- + change in routine or schedule: a new job or working hours
- + their return from boarding or hospitilization
- + interaction problem with other pets or cats
- o cats are asocial rather than antisocial; in the wild
- each has a territory and period of contact with others
- in the group (and only one male per group)
- o a closed environment will create a greater degree of
- interaction than some cats prefer. The more cats in a
- household, the greater the degree of interaction
- * CHEMICAL ATTRACTION OF PREVIOUS "ACCIDENTS:"
- + likely to produce repeated visitations to the same spot
- + may induce urination by other members of a multi-cat
- household
- + you may have moved to a residence previously occupied with
- other dogs and/or cats
-
- Treatment
-
- * Rule out medical problems FIRST
- + complete history and physical
- + stool/GI workup for diarrhea (if needed)
- + urinalysis for inappropriate urination to rule out an
- infection
- + workup for polydipsia/polyuria
- + important to check all cats of a multi-cat household
- o last cat seen misbehaving may be responding to chemical
- attraction and not be an instigator
- o more than one cat could have problem
- + treat/correct medical problems first. Behavioral problems can
- only be diagnosed in a healthy cat
- * Territorial marking
- + neuter all cats (check history of neutered cats; retained
- testicle in male or signs of heat in female)
- + prevent other cats from coming around outside of house, close
- windows, blinds, and doors
- + prevent overcrowding in multi-cat households
- * Litter box problems
- + provide a box for each cat
- + change litter daily
- + provide constant access to a box
- + go back to previously used brand of litter and/or discontinue
- new disinfectant
- + move box to where it was previously used
- + eliminate new or frightening noise near litterbox
- + move food and water away from litterbox
- + if cat is only going in one spot, put the litterbox at the
- exact location and gradually move it back to where you want
- it at the rate of one foot per day
- + if there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food
- in those areas to discourage further elimination there
- + experiment with different textures of litter (cats prefer
- sandy litter)
- + use a covered litterbox for cats that stand in box but
- eliminate outside of it
- * Psychological Stress
- + eliminate if possible
- + try to provide each cat at home with its own "space"
- o use favorite resting areas to determine
- o provide separate litterboxes near each space if possible
- o cubicles, boxes, shelves, crates are effective for this
- + tranquilizers sometimes work well in multicat situations
- * Chemical attraction
- + dispose of all soiled fabric or throw rugs if possible
- + 50% vinegar or commercial products may be used
- + steam cleaning may help
- + repellants may help
- + do not replace carpeting until problem entirely solved or it
- may start all over again on your new carpeting
- * Confinement
- (In portable kennel with litterbox, (with appropriate corrections)
- to stop further inappropriate behavior while medical and/or other
- problems are being treated.)
- + particularly beneficial for transient stress induced problem
- + may allow acclimation to stress situation where source of
- stress cannot be eliminated
- + procedure
- o choose an area that can be a permanent location of
- litterbox
- o keep cat confined to this area 4-6 weeks when not under
- your direct visual supervision (if your cat attempts
- elimination outside of kennel when you are watching,
- squirt with water pistol as soon as elimination posture
- is attempted and put cat back in kennel)
- o if cat is using box regularly for 4 to 6 weeks when not
- under your gradually give access to larger and larger
- areas of your home, one room or hallway at a time
- # allow 1 week of good behavior in the new area
- before adding the new room
- # never increase access area until you are 100%
- certain cat's use of litterbox is 100%
- # if accident occurs, re-evaluate this material to
- make sure litterbox problem or something else
- didn't trigger
- o begin confinement over again and double intervals for
- relapses
- * For inappropriate urination problems in which all else fails and
- the alternative is euthanasia, hormone therapy may be attempted.
- + only for neutered cats only 50% effective
- + side effects may include increased appetite (common),
- depression or lethargy (less common). Long term use might
- have side effects such as: mammary enlargement,
- adrenocrotical suppression, and diabetes mellitus.
- + usually requires lifelong maintenance on regular intermittent
- basis
- + very dangerous drug; use borders malpractice -- should be
- reserved for cats who will be put to sleep if problem is not
- solved
- o immunosuppressive
- o weight gains predisposing to obesity
- o mammary gland development
- o feminization of males
- o may induce latent diabetes
- + dosage is initiated daily for 7 day trial; if effective, then
- dosage is tapered to least effective amount given every other
- day every one to two weeks
- + relapses may be expected when drug is discontinued
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Escaping
-
- The best way to discourage running to the door is never to let the cat
- succeed! After a history of unsuccessful attempts, the cat will stop
- trying. After even one success, the cat will try hard and for a long
- time.
-
- Tip: don't arrive at the door with three bags of groceries in hand and
- expect you'll be able to keep the cat in. Instead, put down all but
- one bag and use that bag to block the floor level when you come in.
- After you're in, bring in the rest. In general, spend the time to be
- in control whenever the outside door is opened. Kids will need to
- learn how to keep the cat in too. A waterbottle may help with
- persistent cats. It will pay off later when the cat stops trying to
- get out.
-
- To turn a formerly outdoor cat into an indoor one (or to discourage a
- persistent one, you might try this, recommended by the San Francisco
- SPCA: Enlist the help of a friend to hide outside the door with a hose
- and spray attachment and have her or him spray the cat when you let it
- out. This may take several applications, over several days.
-
- Some cats are remarkably persistent, and never seem to give up.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Drape/Curtain Climbing
-
- If possible, use tension rods instead of drilled into the wall rods.
- The tension rods will simply fall down on top of the cat if it tries
- to climb them. Otherwise, take the drapes off the hooks and thread
- them back up with thread just barely strong enough to hold them up.
- When the cat climbs up, the drapes will fall down on it (be sure that
- the hooks aren't around to potentially injure the cat). After the
- drapes have remained up for some time, re-hook them. These methods
- have the advantage of working whether you're home or not.
-
- Vertical blinds can work very well; cats cannot climb up them, cannot
- shred them, cannot shed on them, cannot be bent the way horizontal
- blinds. It is furthermore easy for cats to push them aside to look
- outside. Vertical blinds are usually vertical strips of plastic, but
- they can also come covered with different fabrics to match your decor.
- These kinds are still pretty indestructible.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Cord (and Other) Chewing
-
- Put something distasteful on the cord to discourage chewing.
- Substances to try: tabasco sauce, cayenne pepper, Bitter Apple/Orange,
- nail-biting nailpolish, orange/lemon peel. If you cannot find a
- substance that will repel your cat, you may wish to use gaffer's tape
- to secure exposed cords. Gaffer's tape comes in a variety of colors
- and you will probably be able to find something relatively
- inconspicuous. (Duct tape can also be used, but it's pretty messy and
- hard to clean up if you're moving out of an apartment. Consider
- permanent wiring if you own your place: installment behind walls, etc.
-
- This will work on other chewed items, as well, although you will need
- to check the compatibility of the chewed item with the substance you
- put on it.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Biting
-
- Give a sharp, plantative yowl, like the sound a hurt cat will make.
- Pull your hand back (or if that would score furrows down your hand,
- let it go completely limp), turn your back on it, and ignore it for a
- few minutes. People are divided on the issue of whether to allow hand
- attacks at all or to allow limited hand attacks. You can train the cat
- to do either with the same method. For the former, always wail when
- attacked and then offer a toy to play with instead; for the latter,
- wail whenever the claws come out, but allow attack of the hand up to
- that point. Be aware that a cat trained not to use a person as a toy
- at all will be more trustworthy around a new baby (see A New Baby).
- You may try hissing at a cat that persistently attacks you.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Garbage
-
- The best way to prevent this problem is to get a garbage container
- with a firm lid. Do NOT start with container that's trivial to get
- into, then gradually move to harder and harder containers: this just
- trains the cat to get into the harder container. A hospital type of
- container that opens the lid with a foot pedal is effective and
- convenient. Another is the kind with metal handles that swing up to
- close the lid. The important thing is the lid is tight and secure.
-
- Another way to prevent this is to store the garbage can out of reach,
- such as in the cabinet under the sink or in a pantry where the door is
- kept closed. If the cat can open the cabinet door, get a childproof
- latch for it.
-
- If the problem is one of tipping the container over, several bricks in
- the bottom of the container may help stabilize it. Once the cat is
- convinced it can't be knocked over, you can remove the weight.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Counters
-
- It's not a good idea to let your cat on your kitchen counters or
- tabletops. There are several ways to prevent this. Leave a collection
- of poorly balanced kitchen utensils or empty (or with a few pennies
- inside) aluminum cans on the counter near the edge, so the cat will
- knock them off if it jumps up. Cats hate surprises and loud noises.
- Leave some ordinary dishwashing liquid on the counters, or some
- masking tape (or two-sided carpet tape) arranged gummy side up. Don't
- leave things on the counter that will attract the cat (like raw meat).
-
- These same techniques will work for other surfaces like dressers,
- TV's, etc.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Early AM Wakeups
-
- Cats are notorious for waking their owners up at oh-dark-thirty. If
- you wish to stop this, there are several steps to take.
-
- The cat may simply be hungry and demanding its food. By feeding it
- when it wakes you up at an ungodly hour, you are simply reinforcing
- its behavior. If this is why it's waking you up, you can handle this
- either by filling the bowl just before you go to sleep so it will not
- be empty in the morning, or by ignoring the cat's wakeups and feeding
- it at the exact same time convenient to you every morning. The cat
- will adjust fairly quickly to the second.
-
- If it is trying to play, there are again several tactics you can try.
- If you make a practice of tiring it out with play just before bedtime,
- you can reduce its calls for play at dawn. What works in some cases is
- to hiss gently at the cat. You can also try shutting it out of the
- bedroom. If it pounds on the door, put it in a bathroom until you wake
- up.
-
- In persistent cases, try the vacuum cleaner, eater of noisy kitties.
- Go to bed, leaving him out in the hall. Position the vacuum cleaner
- next to the door, inside it. Plug the vacuum in, and arrange things so
- you can switch the vacuum on from your bed (eg, wire a switch into an
- extension cord). Wait for the scratching and wailing at the door. Turn
- the vacuum cleaner on. If cat comes back, turn it on again. The cat
- will eventually decide to stop bothering you in the morning.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Toilet Paper
-
- Five ways to prevent cats from playing with toilet paper:
- * Hang the roll so that the paper hangs down between the roll and
- the wall rather than over the top of the roll.
- * If the cat knows how to roll it either way, then you can get a
- cover that rests on top of the toilet paper and this will work.
- You can make your own by taking the cardboard core from an empty
- roll and slitting it lengthwise and fitting it over the roll.
- * You can balance a small paper cup full of water on top of the
- roll.
- * Instead of a cup of water, try an aluminum can with pennies.
- * If you are unwilling or unable to use the cover, then close the
- door to the bathroom.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Splashing Water
-
- Some cats like to tip the water dish and empty it all over the kitchen
- floor. You can try placing it on a small rug. There are large
- "untippable" (pyramid-shaped) dishes available at the pet store. If
- the cat then paddles the water out, you may just want to put the dish
- in the bathtub. Cats should always have a source of fresh water
- (except for pre-op surgery or prior to a car ride), so removing it
- while you are not at home is an unsatisfactory solution. If the cat is
- indoor/outdoor, you may want to put the water dish outside.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Ripping Carpet
-
- Some cats may develop the annoying and expensive habit of ripping up
- carpet. There are several possible reasons behind this, listed below.
- In all circumstances, be sure that there is plenty of items that the
- cat can scratch.
- * Other "approved" scratching posts may be made of carpet, confusing
- your cat. Switch to scratching materials that do NOT use carpet.
- Common alternatives include sisal rope, corrugated cardboard, or
- carpet turned wrong-way out. Retrain your cat onto these items.
- * Some cats rip at doorways that are closed, trying to get through.
- You can put down plastic carpet covering, securing it with nails
- if necessary, through the doorway so that it sticks out on both
- sides.
- * A particular spot may be favored, for no apparent reason. There
- may be some odor at that spot. Try cleaning it thoroughly with an
- enzyme-based cleaner like Nature's Miracle and then spraying a
- touch of Bitter Apple or the equivalent on the spot.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Closet Antics
-
- Cats love closets, since they're dark hidey holes full of fun stuff.
- But you may not want your cat to swing on your good silk clothing or
- rearrange your shoes. Conversely, you might want your cat to be able
- to get into the closet and keep larger pets out.
-
- If you have a swing-and-shut door, you might try a cat door to allow
- the cat access. A child-barrier that lets the cat jump over but not
- the dog is another possibility. Or a chain (like the chain some front
- doors have) might work.
-
- A solution with closets that have double sliding doors is to drill a
- hole through the area of overlap, with the doors positioned closed or
- partially opened as you wish. Then you can use a nail or a peg in the
- hole to keep the doors in position.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Cats Outside
-
- Outside cats, especially those not your own, can present you with
- difficult problems. Cats are not regarded the way dogs are under law:
- there is usually nothing that says you have the "right" to keep cats
- out of your yard, for example (whereas dogs can be required to be kept
- confined or on leash, for example). There are historical and practical
- reasons for this -- but there are still practical steps you can take
- to resolve several problems. The following is written primarily for
- people who want to stop other cats (i.e., not their own) from being a
- nuisance on their property.
-
- As a cat owner, you should consider ways to minimize your cat annoying
- your neighbors. You could keep your cat inside, supervise your cat
- when outside, bring it inside at night, etc. All cats allowed to roam
- outside should, of course, be neutered.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Noise
-
- Mating cats can make an unbelievable amount of noise under your
- window. If these cats are feral, check with your local animal clinic
- about trapping and neutering these cats. Many will do them at little
- or no cost, depending on how many cats you're willing to bring in for
- the procedure. Eliminating the breeding stock in feral cats as much as
- possible will also help reduce the stray population in your area over
- time, and reduce similar problems like cat fights and spraying.
-
- If the cats involved are owned by your neighbors, you might try a
- non-confrontational approach -- let them know what their cat has been
- doing and suggest that perhaps neutering their cat might help solve
- some of these problems. A politely worded note can be left on their
- door if you wish to avoid direct confrontation. You might eventually
- call Animal Control in your area for help, but first let them know you
- are having problems with their cat.
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Your Garden
-
- Between digging and eating in your plants, cats can do considerable
- damage to a garden. There are a number of ways to keep cats from
- digging in, chewing on, or eliminating in your garden.
-
- Some people have successfully used the "diversionary" tactic by
- planting catnip in another corner of the garden entirely, confining
- the destruction to one spot.
-
- If you have not yet started your garden, put chicken wire down and
- plant between the wire. Cats dislike walking on the chicken wire and
- most plants (unless they grow too big) do just fine growing between
- the wire.
-
- Other people have reported success with different sprays, gels, and
- products specifically formulated to keep animals out of your yard.
- Check your local pet store.
-
- Lemon peels, soap slivers (use biodegradeable soap) dipped in cayenne
- pepper and other organic materials have also been reportedly
- successful.
-
- Cats hate water: surprising them with a squirt gun (or turning your
- sprinklers on) can discourage specific cats from returning.
-
- One reader reported success in putting up cast-iron cut-out cats with
- marble eyes in strategic places in her yard. The decorative cats were
- apparently real enough to cats that they kept clear of her yard. Try
- looking around hardware stores or gardening stores for these. Lifesize
- cat statues might work as well.
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-
- Local "Attack" Cats
-
- Sometimes there is a problem with a particular cat that fights with
- other cats. If it is feral, try to make arrangements to neuter it, if
- possible. If it belongs to a neighbor, try to discuss the matter with
- your neighbor, and avoid being "threatening." When approached
- reasonably, most people can be reasonable in turn. Sometimes your
- neighbor just doesn't know his cat is bothering you.
-
- If the cat actually follows your cat through the pet door, you might
- try an electronic pet door to keep it out (see Pet Doors).
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-
- Your Birdfeeder
-
- Locate your birdfeeder in an area where the ground is clear, affording
- cats no cover. At the same time, try to locate it under something,
- like a tree, to provide refuge from attack by other birds.
-
- To reduce the problem of birds on the ground (after dropped seeds)
- getting picked up by cats, use suet feeders instead of seed feeders.
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-
- Keeping your cat in your yard
-
- Cats are very good at scaling fences. But if you have a yard that is
- otherwised fenced in, you can try keeping your cat from going over the
- fence by attaching corrougated fiberglass to the top of it. There is
- then no purchase for the cat to pull itself up. It is even possible to
- find different colors of the fiberglass to keep it inconspicuous. Keep
- in mind, though, that many cats are clever climbers and high jumpers
- and may circumvent anything short of a yard totally enclosed and
- roofed over with chicken wire.
-
- You can try making an overhang on the top of the fence, if you cat
- cannot jump directly to the top of it. Use large bookshelf type angle
- brackets and drape netting or screening on it, to create an unstable
- barrier.
-
- There are some "invisible fence" products for cats, where the
- perimiter of the yard is marked with a wire that will activate an
- electric collar on the the cat. Do not use these without supervision,
- and ideally they should be used in conjunction with a visible fence
- that the cat can use as a visual reminder of its constraints. This
- seems to work well with some cats and not at all with others.
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-
-
- Problem Behaviors in Cats FAQ
-
- References
-
- 1. file://localhost/home/t/tittle/public-web/cat-faqs/table-of-contents.html
- 2. file://localhost/home/t/tittle/public-web/cat-faqs/behavior.html#housetraining
-