Stephen Haynes 71666,424 Ch. Trotanoy 1975 Bordeaux Rouge Dark brick red with distinct browning at edges. Initially, upon opening, bouquet was quite reserved. After an hour, it blossoms into a mature claret. Ripe cassis fruit, but maturing into older Bordeaux style. This wine had been very closed in a couple of years ago. Now, however, the fruit is reasserting itself, and the tannins have softened. Still has some herbaceous character to resolve, but the balance is excellent, and the underlying structure speaks to a good future. Wine has entered its "plateau of maturity" and has several years ahead of it. Finish also leaves an herbaceous character in the mouth, but not unpleasant.
Stephen Haynes 71666,424 Ch. Calon-Segur 1970 Bordeaux Rouge Moderately young looking mature claret; browning at edge, but note severely so. Bouquet at opening rather tight and closed in; then blossoms into ripe, cedar and mushrooms typical of a St. Estephe. Taste is of a fully-mature claret with several good years ahead. Fruit is much more present than had been the case when this wine was last tasted -- five years ago. Tannins have largely resolved, and wine shows promise for several good years yet. Not a great Bordeaux, but definitely a very good one that has shown that the 70 Bordeaux have come out of the closet, throwing off the tight quality that had predominated for ten-fifteen years, and moved to a higher plateau of maturity.
Stephen Haynes 71666,424 Ch. Gruaud-Larose 1981 Bordeaux Rouge Dark brick red/reddish purple. Nose filled with berryish fruit, cedar, tar, with hints of herbaceousness. Taste is even more herbaceous, with tannins still to resolve. Fruit is more subdued, and seems like wine is still in or going into a dumb stage. Balance shows a bit toward the acidic side. Long, somewhat acidic finish. Needs at least a couple more years before trying again. Expect it should still be holding together.
Dave Sit/NYC 71360,2142 Ravenswood 1990 ZInfandel Old Hill Vineyard $17 Very dark ruby; perfumed bouquet of black currants, spices and peppery aromas. Deep and complex, the wine has layers of intensely extracted black raspberry fruit, very good acidity and still sizable amounts of tannin. A large-scale wine, yet it manages to exude a touch of elegance and balance in the mouth. It seems like another two or three years of cellaring is warranted. As dense a zinfandel as this wine is, it doesn't cross the line to be more cabernet-like -- something that I find in the '90 Dickerson bottling. Very impressive wine that would easily drink into first decade of the next century. (93/100)
Dave Sit/NYC 71360,2142 Ridge 1985 Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon $20 bought as futures back then If anyone needs proof that a wine goes through dumb stages and widely-swingly drinkability curves, there is the wine. When this wine was first released, it garnered very high scores from all reviewers, despite its overtly tannic nature. I had the good fortune of tasting it at a barrel-tasting dinner, and bought a case of it as futures. The wine became closed down shortly after its release. In the ensuing years it became very unimpressive to taste. A bottle tasted two years ago revealed a wine that has tons of minerals but not berryish fruit at all -- just lean and hard and hollow. A friend of mine promptly sold all his cases. The price for the wine has also dropped in auctions and lists. In comparison to the '84, which has been fetching $80 or so a bottle, the '85's price dropped to around $50. Having a bit of faith in Monte Bello cabs, which I compared in some way to Haut Brion -- kind of minerally and hard to gauge in its youth, I held on to my stash. A bottle opened last year showed the wine has begun to emerge from its stupor, showing some signs of curranty fruit and the development of bouquet. I opened another bottle last night and this wine has really blossomed. The bouquet is quite intense now, with loads of cedar, cassis and minerals on the nose. In the mouth, the wine has filled out impressively, and has developed a sweetness not tasted before. Although still tannic, it is clearly developing into a great wine. It would be interesting to see how it evolves over the next ten to twenty years. Interestingly enough, recent wine catalogs now list the '85 at around $85, $5 higher than the '84. (94+)
Dave Sit/NYC 71360,2142 Dominus 1985 Red Table Wine Dark garnet color, not a hint of lightening at the rim yet. Intense nose of tree bark, cassis, herbs and new oak, some whiffs of brett, but not overpowering by any means. There is a Rhone-like quality to the nose. High glycerine, heavy legs. Surprising silky in the mouth, with marvellous balance and complexity. Very harmonious tactile feel on the palate. Excellent extract of black fruits, with a nice backbone of good acidity and supple tannins. Despite its intensity, I find the wine to be beautifully proportioned, full of character and at peace with its elements. Considerably superior to the leaner '83, this wine has started to soften -- quite a bit more forward than a bottle tasted last year. Drinkable now, but it should hit its strides probably around the turn of the century. For my palate, a great wine! (94/100)
Randy Buckner 75447,2547 Greenwood Ridge 1992 Merlot Tried the 92 Greenwood Ridge Merlot last night. It has received a lot of nice press and I wanted to see what the fuss was about. It is a very nice wine, big, ripe, fat fruit, nice oak, moderate tannins, good complexity. That said, I do not know if it is a wine for the long haul due to the ripeness of the fruit.
Randy Buckner 75447,2547 Cooper Mountain 1992 Reserve Pinot Noir (OR) - What a nice surprise. This is not a bottle for everyone. If you are looking for delicate and refined then look elsewhere. This wine is full of blackberries, earthy components and smoke, with a hint of new oak. It is big and chewy - $22.00 a bottle.
Randy Buckner 75447,2547 Springhill Cellars 1992 Pinot Noir Barrel Select (OR) - Not my style, but a nice bottle. Lighter than the Cooper Mountain, with cherry flavors, spice and a hint of pepper - $16.00 a bottle.
Randy Buckner 75447,2547 Kistler Estate 1992 Pinot Noir - Not to be confused with their McCrea bottling. Our favorite. Layer after layer of cherries, currants, spice, vanilla and just a hint of mint. The aftertaste went on for minutes. Very well integrated and refined (which proves that I DO appreciate that style too) - Unfortunately ~$40.00 a bottle.
Peter Creasey 75021,3606 Dry Creek Vineyards 1991 Dry Creek Valley Old Vines Zinfandel Medium garnet. Clean bouquet with round spices, blackberry/raspberry, blackpepper, vanilla, light complexity, wood, floral nuances. Nice depth and fullness on palate, alcohol well buffered with berry fruits and mild oak, elegant Zin flavors, approachable softness. Moderate long polished finish. Really a nice Zin! Served with Italian sausage with tomato sauce, angel hair pasta, and asparagus.
Peter Creasey 75021,3606 Chalone 1991 Pinot Blanc Pale to medium yellow with gold tint. Granny Smith apples plus melons, maybe a hint of bananas, oak tones. Nice mouth feel, medium grip, good firm fruit with acid backbone, smooth, buttery toastiness develops in the glass. Moderate length finish that's clean Good reliable wine. The last time had this wine was a year or so ago. It actually seems to have gained some complexity and shows better now. It should drink well for some time yet. Served with fried flounder/shrimp, oven fried potatoes, and fresh carrots.
Peter Creasey 75021,3606 Ch Brane Cantenac 1983 Red Bordeaux Medium to dark red. Effusive bouquet, muted cigar box, lovely dark fruit. Nice Claret features, mild tannins still evident, dark berries, some cedar, moderate extract, flawless if without a whole lot of flair, silky. Moderate length and fullness to delicious finish. I suspect this fine Claret is nearing its peak and will surely hold well. Served with steak Diane, potato Rosti, and haricots vertes.
Peter Creasey 75021,3606 Peachy Canyon 1991 Paso Robles Westside Zinfandel Bright dark garnet. Effusive bouquet of spice/smoked dark cherries & blackberries, complex, oak. Robust/fullspicy/warm on palate, oaken tones, dark fruits, not very integrated (in fact, it's fairly fragmented), smoke, hint of cooked meat, still complex, active tannins, some gaminess. Moderate finish with some heat. It's a mystery where this wine is going...it will be interesting to track. Served with meat loaf, pasta, and ranch style bean.
Peter Creasey 75021,3606 Coudoulet de Beaucastel 1991 Cotes du Rhone Medium red. Polished gaminess in bouquet, deep oak, spice, smoke, dark berry fruit, some perfume. Full and balanced on palate, tannins, some leather, still some polish, full dark fruit, spice. Moderate finish that is clean. I agree with whomever touted the QPR on the $9 wine. I'm going to buy some. Also, if the Coudoulet is good QPR, why isn't the Beaucastel (which I've not tasted) likewise at around $22? Coudoulet was excellent matchup with grilled steak, baked potato, and dark beans.
Jim Kronman/SYSOP/CA 76703,431 David Stare 1993 Dry Creek Chenin Blanc ... we've been drinking another of Dave Stare's wines: the 1993 Dry Creek Chenin Blanc. It's a very good sipping wine (what we have been using it as) but would also go nicely with lighter dishes that call for a light, fruity and slightly off-dry white. Tons of melony fruit here and just a touch of sweetness, nicely balanced by acidity. This one has been bottled using the "CelluKork" corks, BTW, and they are a bear to remove.
Jim Kronman/SYSOP/CA 76703,431 Franciscan 1975 Nap Vly Cabernet Sauvignon Here's an oldie that turned out to be quite a goodie: Franciscan 1975 Nap Vly Cab Sauv. Farily dark, ruby color and hardly a hint of orange at the edge, much less brown! Rich, complex aromas and flavors of plums, berries, leather; a hint of coffee in the finish. Somewhat fat in the mouth; moderate tannin and some harshness at the back of the tongue. Remarkably well preserved.
Sidney K. Graham Jr. 70770,63 Chimere 1991/1992 Pinot Noir, 'Edna Valley' I have had good experiences with the Chimere 'Edna Valley' PN at around $10/Btl. I have tried both the '91 and '92 vintages and found them both to be quite delicious especially considering the price. I preferred the '91 vintage which RP rated a 90 (for what that's worth). I believe they also made a 'Santa Maria Valley' bottling in '92 which I have not yet tried. As you might expect, the wines are hard to acquire. I have seen them only in the Los Angeles area when I have had an opportunity to travel there for business. I do know that there was some still available at the LA Wine Company (310-306-2822) last weekend. They will ship with a six bottle minimum. I have generally found this retailer to have the lowest prices anywhere. Of course, you have to act quickly here since they do a tremendous volume. Gary Moseby is the winemaker at Chimere who also makes a CalChard and a Rouge (?) blend. I think Gary may be the winemaker at Edna Valley Vineyards but I am not certain. Anybody else out there had any experience with Chimere?
Bruce Douglas 75140,1354 Benziger 1992 Zinfandel Light purple with slight clearing out to the edge in the glass. Slightly brambley in the nose with fruit overtones. In the mouth the fruit is open and nicely balanced by the tanins. The finish is medium and supports the nose and the taste in the mouth. An excellent wine for less than $9 from L.A. Wine Co. in Palm Desert. It went really well with a rack of lamb done Middle Eastern style on the grill. Accompanied by Tabouhle, Babbakanoush, and hummus, along with Pita bread.
Bruce Douglas 75140,1354 Swanson 1992 Merlot Very dark purple, but not to the black, inky level. Obviously no change in color all the way to the edge where it just barely thins. Huge nose for a merlot at this age, and a lot of fruit in the nose. What kind of fruit? Well, none of the usual descriptors come to mind. Berries? Yes, but what kind? Now cinnamon? In the mouth the wine is supple and seems to fill the whole mouth. Lovely tastes. The finish is medium long. Now for the 64k question: Where does it go from here? It is as lovely a near term consumer as we have had. It's not vintage Bordeaux, but it is a wonderful glass of wine. Is this all there is?
Bruce Douglas 75140,1354 Raymond 1991 Amberhill Cabernet Sauvignon Well it's finally happened a nice wine on an airplane. Riding UAL 369 from DEN to PDX in the shakespeare seat after a race through the new concourse after a delayed flight from Omaha, I was pleasantly surprised by the red wine offered with lunch. 1991 Raymond Amberhill Cabernet. This is a wonderfully forward, fruity wine. I have certainly never reported on an airline wine before, and I don't expect to do so again soon. International flights excepted the wines are not much. And when we travel internationally we're usually looking forward to something better, or it will be a long time before I upload. Back to the Raymond, I've lost the address of the winery, but I believe that there is someone here from time to time. If so I'd be interested in comments. This wine is deep purple in the glass with a brand new fresh made color. It is soft in the mouth without noticeable tanins. The nose however does have some cabernet characteristics, and just before you start to dismiss this wine, it finishes strong with a lot of complexity. I doubt that the wine is going to last or get better, but if someone started out to "build" and airline wine that would have wide appeal, but still stimulate the more jaded bozo traveler, this hits the mark. Unfortunately the meal was an unsuitable accompaniment so I was left to enjoy the wine.
Bruce Douglas 75140,1354 V. Sattui 1980 Zinfandel Two weird notes in one day. Home tonight and batching it. Lost the first contest of wills with the real boss of the house. Lady Diana, the resident Princess, demanded to be fed upon my arrival. I reasoned as well as anyone can with a 13 year old Himalayan complete with arguments about how the neighbor's son would be cut out of a fat deal if he didn't get credit for the day. Bottom line was she might of gotten to eat three times today. My Brother joined me for stuffed graped leaves, fresh bread and a salad. He picked the last bottle of 1980 V. Sattui Zinfandel from the cellar. OFS. There is no need to reignite the controversy, but I can tell you that this one aged wonderfully and retained its zinfandel characteristics. It still has a mouthful of brambly fruit. This is not your Father's cabernet!
Robert Rogness 71442,3453 Robert Biale 1992 Proprietor's Series Dyer's Farm Refosco, Napa Two of our favorite new wines are made by American winemakers of Italian heritage who are getting back to their roots by exploring varietals from the Old Country. Robert Biale Proprietor's Series Dyer's Farm Refosco '92, Napa is about as perfect a definition of bumptuallity as we've ever seen, explosive in-yo-face boysenberry and ripe plum aromas carry top notes of mint, lavender and maybe frankincense and myrrh straight up your sinuses. The wine has the rich velvety texture on the tongue that Merlot producers promise yet rarely deliver and the flavors go on and on and on. Refosco is an important varietal in Italy (Friuli's largest producer), is extremely food friendly and has been overlooked by the American wineries rushing to market Brunello and Barolo wanna-bees. 225 case production
Robert Rogness 71442,3453 Pagor 1992 Nebbiolo (which we affectionately call il Pagorolo), is a wine that we have been intimately involved with for over two years as Ed has brought us samples at every stage of its evolution and sought counsel as to which stylistic paths to take. Nebbiolo is notorious for lacking in color and at first Ed considered fining the bigger tannins out and releasing the wine as a chillable rose. We said "sure, bottle it up and send it over!" Then Ed started to notice more complex flavors developing as the wine matured so he macerated it on the skins and stems of a batch of Petite Sirah he had just pressed to add color and tannin, blended 20% Cabernet to bump up the mouthfeel and put it in new oak to rest for two years, all the while teasing us with barrel samples every four months or so (to which we again said, "bottle it up and send it over!"). Then, in November of last year, Ed finally bottled the wine completely unfined and unfiltered with a net yield of 29 cases and four bottles!!! This is NOT Barolo but is much more Italianate than most of the others produced here, with smoke, tar and earth being the strong notes and fruit and rose aromas in the background.
Robert Rogness 71442,3453 Giacomo Conterno 1987 Barolo Montfortino Riserva "95/100 In a class by itself , even in a medium quality vintage like '87 it is superb! It has saturated garnet color and powerful aromas, intense with floral scent like rose and violet, mineral aromas like tar and even some licorice notes." Gambero Rosso "The 92 Best Italian Wines" This wine just kept unfolding, layer after layer of flavors and aromas spilling out of the glass. Each food course, ranging from garlic breadsticks wrapped with smoked turkey breast to grilled wild mushrooms piled on a polenta with cheese brought out complimentary notes. I snuck a couple of ounces into a very large brandy snifter and put it away for two days and it was still blooming. Considering the pretty lame character of this vintage this is a resounding confirmation of Signore Conterno's abilities. Da Grande Vino! Giovanni Conterno, son of Giacomo (whose name is on his labels) and brother of Aldo (one of the leaders of the vanguard to make International Style wines in Barolo) has been called the finest traditional winemaker in Italy. Daniele Cernilli, wine editor at the Gambero Rosso is convinced that Signore Conterno's masterpiece, the Barolo Montfortino Riserva, is the best DOCG red produced and has described how "thirty years of cellaring tamed the incredibly rebellious tannins of the '61, harmonizing them with the 14 % alcohol and transformed those perfumes hidden in the initial phase into splended aromas of licorice and wilted rose, as complex and elegant as a great La Tache". We had the opportunnity to do a vertical tasting of Conterno Baroli recently along with some of the diGrazi gang (Sandrone, Altare, ect) and the consensus of the panel with about half and half Italian and Americans was that the New Wave guys made some GREAT wines, but they had little to do with the tradition of Barolo.
Robert Rogness 71442,3453 Giacomo Conterno 1989 Barolo Montfortino Riserva 94/100 Stupefying impact on the sense of smell (notes of leather, tobacco, mature fruits lead into menthol and sweet oak, all in perfect balance) just the right amount of soft tannins and a structure and flavor profile sure to cause immediate enthusiasm among tasters. Another great wine from Giovanni Conterno and fully qualified for the highest award of tre bichierri from the Guida!" Guida di Vini '94 published by the Gambero Rosso and Arcigola Slow Food . This wine was a consistent champion in over twenty tastings we did last year and showed very well indeed here. While somewhat harder than the Montfortino, food and time did wonders with this wine as well, with deeeeep ripe black cherry and plum flavors predominating. This was simply superb with the Chinese duck that we consider a must at all Northern Italian tastings, the tannins meeting all that fat halfway in a hedonistic union just not possible with stale bread and dry cheese. We think it will take another four to six years for all the concentrated essences in here to perculate to the nose. But we like it anyway!
Jenise Stone/SL2/Alaska 74364,741 various American 1991/1992 Merlots Your note made me think I should mention a tasting I was at last night. '90 Chateau Trontonoy was served with 6 American Merlots, all blind. My favorite was the Trotonoy, followed closely by a '92 Pride. It was VERY similar to the Trotonoy, just not as mature and perhaps not quite as complex--but way more complex than the others which included Clos du Bois, Kendall-Jackson, Crichton Hall, Sabastiani, all '92's, and '91 and '92 vintages of Ch St. Michelle. The Clos du Bois was very good for the price, the Crichton was vegetal, and both Michelle's overly oaked. The K-J, which was the big favorite of the group, escaped me. It was jammy, had a nose like Bonny Doon Framboise. Yuck. I'm going to go pick up a bunch of the Pride this weekend and can heartily recommend it to Pomerol fans--at $16.
Jenise Stone/SL2/Alaska 74364,741 Elk Cove 1991 Pinot Noir "La Boheme" A little pickly at this point, fruit pretty muted, depriving one of that elegant, long sweet finish most of us like in Pinot Noirs. Was surprised at how much it has changed since I last tasted it in August 1994. Still entirely drinkable, however, and a nice match for warm sausage stuffed Artichokes, a tomato-basil vinaigrette dipping sauce, and focaccia. Think I'll 'lose' my remaining bottle of this for at least a year and see if it comes back.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Zillikin 1993 Saarburger Rausch Spatlese This is a new batch bought last year---and seems to be significantly more developed. Color is medium gold---no amber appearing. Nose of riesling petrol, minerals and honeysuckle. It tastes of peaches, oranges and more minerals. A long elegent finish. This 83 spatlese has a wonderful combination of tremendous concentration of fruit and an acidic backbone. Once again I am amazed at how well the 83s are holding up.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Pegau 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape Fired up the grill this weekend (something we get to do all year 'round here) for a prime rib and, after fourteen months, opened up a 90 Pegau. The wine has soften somewhat in that time. Color is still deep purple with a nose of tar, olives and spices. Increbibly concentrated with lots of black fruit that is somewhat sweet. It's the tannins that have moderated since the last tasting. The no longer stick in the roof of my mouth. The fruit and the tannins have melded together to produce a long, tannic, ripe finish.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Bernkastler Doctor 1976 Auslese LGK On the basis of Jay's prior notes---opened before dinner and allowed to rest in the refrig for two hours before drinking. An increbibly youthful wine. Color about the same as the above spatlese. No hints of amber. Good nose of diesel, petrol---and lots of of botrytris. Peaches, mangoes, pinneappele---some almonds. Everything you would expect a 19 year-old auslese to be.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Domain Gachon-Pascal 1989 Perrier St. Joseph Update on this great bargain. The wine seems to have mellowed somewhat over the last eight months since I last tried it. It is still super concentrated with an almost overwhelming nose of cassis, mint and herbs. The dark opaque purple hasn't lightened any. Tannins are beginning to come into balance with the fruit. The fruit isn't quite as explosive blackberry as it was. But it's still there and it is now starting to develop hickory, tar, leather and coffee. Great mouth feel; very chewable. Long, long finish. I expect it will continue to develop for another five or six years.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Gaston Huet 1988 Vouvray "Le Haut Lieu" sec The peripatatic Wine Board Gypsy (alias Tom Hemenway) arrived again in OKC. This time Tom was bearing pinot. So over a dinner of assorted appetizers (olives, cheeses, etc), grilled whole tenderloin, italian bread and salad we managed to get quite involved with this wine. Medium gold color (sort of like 10 year old spatlese). A nose of petrol and minerals. The petrol disappears after a few minutes to be replaced by flowers. A lovely flowery, mineral, pineapple wine. The minerals are not too strong and the fruit and pineapple has a slight sweetness. Nice crisp acidity that keeps everything nicely in balance. Very drinkable wine with a good life ahead of it.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Domaine Baumard 1990 Savennieres "Trie Speciale" Lovely color; looks just like a 5-year-old German riesling spatlese. The nose first sends up lots of minerals. followed by flowers and then honey. There is an over-all taste of honey-lemon and minerals. It is extremely concentrated and focused; good mouth-feel; nothing flabby. Long, luscious and off-dry finish and goes on and on. The sliight hotness to the finish that I noticed the first time I tried the wine was not present. There is over 15% alcohol but everything is nicely in balance.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Evesham Wood 1991 Pinot Noir "Unfiltered Cuvee J" Evesham Woods is something of a Tom Hemenway specialty. On the old boards if you said that the guest brought something from Evesham Woods, everybody would know that Tom was visiting! This pinot was really something. A big nose with lots of bright fruit: cherries and raspberries. It also had notes of choclolate and vanilla with a good finish. I can't remember having a better Oregon Pinot (of course I haven't had that many.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Moillard 1985 Echezeaux Good as the Evesham Woods was, this wine almost made us forget it. Still dark colored with very little clear rim. A big nose and tastes of earth, truffles, blackcherries. A finish that goes on for at least a minute. Lovely, lovely wine. But I expect that Tom can do more justice to it than me.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Albert Belle 1990 Crozes Hermitage "Les Pierrelles" Crozes may have the best values of any of the Northern Rhone appellations during 1990. Those of us with any sense stocked up on the 90 Jaboulet Thalabert as one of the great wine values. Well right behind the Thalabert as a great value is the regular bottling from Albert Belle. This one is dark purple. Nose of spice, tar and hickory. Plenty of sweet black fruit, some leather and a few chocolate and tobacco notes and a long finish. It is not quite as concentrated as the Jaboulet Thalabert. Nor does it have the same intensity of "roasted" fruit. But it's quite good and was an excellent value at $10-11.
Robin Garr/Sysop/Ky 76702,764 Chappellet 1991 Napa Valley Dry Chenin Blanc ($6.99). Clear light gold in color, with a strongly musky melon nose and minty overtones, pleasant and complex. They're not kidding about the "dry," perhaps surprisingly for a California Chenin Blanc. It's rich and mouth-filling, following the nose, with an almost pungent fruit-acid quality that reminds me more than a little of an Alsatian white. Very good wine, very good value.
Robin Garr/A-Sys/KY 76702,764 Bonny Doon 1994 Clos de Gilroy ($8.99). This one may be old news on the Left Coast, but it's just arrived here, and I'd say this year's rendition is even better than some of the recent past. It's a clear, bright ruby color, with exuberant strawberry, banana and cotton-candy aromas and flavors overlaid with fragrant black pepper and a firm acidic backbone. It's a lot like a Beaujolais, but more so; call it a Beaujolais with an ATTITUDE. Very good wine, good value.
Robin Garr/A-Sys/KY 76702,764 Penfolds 1990 Bin 128 Coonawara Shiraz ($11.99). Very dark reddish purple. Black pepper, plummy fruit and a bit of weedy dill in a complex nose; bright fruit and fragrant pepper flavors, a bit on the soft side at first, but with tart acidity emerging on the mid-palate and balancing the flavor into a long finish. Good wine, appropriate value. Importer: PWG Vintners USA Inc., Monterey, Calif.
Robin Garr/A-Sys/KY 76702,764 Domaine L'Aigueliere 1991 Montpeyroux Coteaux du Languedoc ($7.99). Dark garnet color, with a ripe, full aroma of plummy fruit and pleasant organic notes -- leather and restrained "barnyard," well within my limits of tolerance. Flavors consistent, rich and extracted fruit with pleasant "barnyard," full texture and crisp acidity. This is a remarkable wine for the price point; if I had to stretch for a comparison, I think it leans a bit closer to Bordeaux than the Rhne; it made a delightful match with garlic- and rosemary-scented lamb chops from the grill. Very good wine, excellent value.
Robin Garr/A-Sys/KY 76702,764 Chateau la Roque 1991 Coteaux du Languedoc "Pic Saint Loup" ($8.99). Very dark ruby color. Spicy oak and tart cherry fruit on the nose and palate; jammy flavors, a bit on the soft side, but lemon-squirt acidity and a shot of black pepper keeps it in balance. Good wine, good value. (A chateau-bottled Languedoc, imported by Kermit Lynch.)
Robin Garr/A-Sys/KY 76702,764 Jade Mountain 1993 California Marsanne (70%)-Viognier (30%) $12.99. Clear, pale-gold color, with a remarkably complex nose of pleasant wildflowers, lemon-lime, a touch of pear, a kiss of honey. Flavors consistent, clean and bright, with exotic spice (sandalwood?) in a very long finish. This is a remarkably good wine, altho I'd drink it SOON, as its delicacy can't last. Very good to outstanding wine, very good value.
Robin Garr/A-Sys/KY 76702,764 Hubert Ganz 1993er Bretzenheimer Hofgut (Nahe) Scheurebe Kabinett $6.99. Very pale straw color. Full musky nose, overlays a bowl of fresh fruit, strawberries and tangerines, a remarkably complex and delicious scent. Juicy tangerine fruit flavor, surprisingly dry and crisp, with citric orange-blossom shimmering in a very long finish. Very good wine, very good value. A Terry Theise import.
Jay Baldwin [Detroit] 74431,2517 Beringer 1993 Chardonnay Private Reserve Here's a quick TN on a newer wine... 1993 Beringer Chardonnay Private Reserve. Fresh, solid varietal aromas, some oak. On the palate, a shock.... is that residual sugar?? Shame on you, Beringer. Ferrari-Carano lovers, this is a wine for you. But if RS is not your thing, then this is a pale imitation of the excellent (and dry) 1992!! Sweet oak vanillin and malolactic are fairly prominent. The level of fruit is only slightly above average, however.
Jay Baldwin [Detroit] 74431,2517 Bollinger 1985 Champagne, Grand Annee -- tight and young, seems to need 15 minutes of aeration in the glass to open up, even as the bottle empties. But then, lovely toasty and clean sharp fruit, and a moderately long finish.
Jay Baldwin [Detroit] 74431,2517 Culbertson 1985 Brut Rose -- very mature; bronze to salmon color. No bubbles in the glass, but on the palate, just enough effervescence to hold your interest. Thoroughly integrated, graceful flavors. Just starting to decline.
Jay Baldwin [Detroit] 74431,2517 Veuve Cliquot 1985 Brut Rose -- incredible rich fruit and a finish of several minutes! This champagne is just stunning. Very drinkable now, but with the muscle to age a decade. Dry, fruity, only slightly toasty.
Jay Baldwin [Detroit] 74431,2517 Mondavi 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon (regular bottling) -- This and the two bordeaux were enjoyed together over a long dinner at the Rattlesnake Club in Detroit, with Joel and Sally. Unexpectedly strong minty nose. Maybe a little piney, too. This blew off somewhat with time. Wine was quite closed for nearly an hour, but finally began to come out, and developed into a good solid cab; fairly young and moderately tannic on the palate. Don't know where this one is heading, though.
Jay Baldwin [Detroit] 74431,2517 Chateau Palmer 1985 Red Bordeaux -- deeply colored with pink edges, and no mistaking the perfumed, still-young, concentrated merlot nose on this wine. Not nearly as concentrated as the great '83 and '89 vintages, but excellent nonetheless; nice balance. Flavors to match the nose.
Jay Baldwin [Detroit] 74431,2517 Chateau Gloria 1985 Red Bordeaux -- wish Joel would jump in here... this has been two weeks and I'm doing this from memory (can't you tell?<g>). The weakest of the three. Average ruby color, clear edges. Lacked concentration in both bouquet and on the palate. Probably suffered in part due to comparisons to the Palmer. Don't know if it's in a dumb phase (could be), or is just weak and drying out. Tricky vintage, tricky amount of bottle age.
ALAN BOEHMER 70524,411 Brander 1994 Cuvee Natalie $12.50 (50% Sauvignon Bland/25% Gewurztraminer/25% Riesling) Despite the graceful, long-necked bottle and fancy label, I think this wine is largely unsuccessful. It attempts to combine varietals which need to express their native qualities in different and incompatible ways. All the qualities which have plagued California dry Rieslings and Gewurztraminers are present in this wine, exacerbated by the domination of Sauvignon Blanc, whose flavor components seem to fight with the others. I disliked this wine in 1993, and now again. An unworthy effort from a producer whose 100% Sauvignon Blancs are among the best in the region.
Don Rice 73562,677 Kouros 1993 Greek white table wine, Patras appelation, "Rhoditis" grape. Served in glass tumblers (!) Pale straw color and an inviting fruity "white grape juice" aroma. Very crisp and dry with light, refreshing fruit flavors. It actually reminded me of NY state whites from the Finger Lakes (like Seyval blanc). Washed down the meal very nicely, and although the wine's intensity was not quite up to the highly seasoned grilled fish flavors, this light Greek white was still a tasty choice. Remained a pleasing quaff even after it warmed up a bit.
Don Rice 73562,677 Laurel Glen 1992 Sonoma Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon (~$35.00) Deep purple and thick looking in the glass with moderately strong aromas of minerals, and ripe cherries. Texture dominated by rich and substantial mouth-coating tannins, ripe currant-like cabernet fruit and an almost chocolatey finish. Not that much noticeable oak in the mix, and with just enough acid to frame the entire picture. Very enjoyable and sensuous now, but this wine is just a babe with a long life ahead! Next day: still great, and actually an improvement over day one. Comparison? We thought the '90 was richer/riper and the '91 seemed to have more structure apparent. This seems to lie somewhere in-between. I love the style of these Laurel Glen wines. Just wish I could afford moooooooooore! (tho I did manage to stash a *couple* bottles <g>)
Dennis M. Sienko 74767,701 Caymus 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - Medium crimson. Somewhat shy, minty, vegetal bouquet. Herbal-vegetal dark cherry flavors at first opened up to reveal a bit of mocha in the bouquet and some dill in te flavor. Medium-long finish. (16, 6, 83)
Dennis M. Sienko 74767,701 Mount Veeder 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - Medium crimson. Faint vanilla & red fruit bouquet. Ripe, rich, dark cherry & black berry flavors. Excellent balance. Rich, fruity finish. (20, 1, 90)
Dennis M. Sienko 74767,701 Spottswoode 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon - Medium crimson. Slight vanilla & cherry fruit bouquet. Full-bodied, dark cherry & black berry fruit. Ripe. Straightforward. Medium finish. (22, 3, 88)
Dennis M. Sienko 74767,701 Hafner 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley - Medium-light crimson. Somewhat shy, soapy, dark red-fruit bouquet with some cardboard which blew away. Ripe, low acid, straight-forward cherry & black berry fruit flavors. A little astringent and perhaps hot at first, but the wine opened up and softened a lot in the glass. It also gained in richness. (29, 5, 85)
Dennis M. Sienko 74767,701 Chateau Montelena Estate 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon - Medium crimson. Very shy black berry bouquet. Full bodied, dark, tannic, somewhat astringent black berry flavors. Medium long finish. (30, 4, 87)
Dennis M. Sienko 74767,701 Dunn 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain - Medium crimson. Faint, non-descript bouquet. Medium-bodied, ripe, straightforward black berry fruit. A bit chalky or dusty. Medium finish. (30, 2, 89) I had my top four wines (Mount Veeder, Dunn Howell Mountain, Spottswoode, Chateau Montelena Estate) very close and very closed. I think they were all quite dumb and may emerge later. The Hafner is probably as good as it will get and is OK to OK +. The Caymus, which got six rank points from me for being sixth on my card and ten rank points total from the other six tasters (I'm out of synch on this one!!) was falling apart and had some unpleasant flavors, IMHO). Usually I chalk this up to palate variation, but this time, I really think I got it right and everybody else did not. Remember, however, that I am not a fan of California CS.
Jon Lawry/GA Hobo 73352,1373 Handley 1993 Gewurztraminer I never forget a recco, and this one was by Jim Holmes, wherever he may be at this point. We had it as a before-dinner aperitif and it was very nice. The color is light gold and the flavor is definitely gewurz, with a bit more citrus than I prefer. Don't get me wrong, Jim, I really like this wine, but I think it's meant for food. Alsatian g's drink better, IMO, by themselves than do the ones from Calif. This one leans slightly more toward a Sauvignon Blanc flavor, whereas the Alsacian gewurz's have a balance of flavor all their own. Still looking for the Husch.
Jon Lawry/GA Hobo 73352,1373 Bodegas y Cavas de Weinert 1985 Cabernet/Malbec/Merlot 60% cab 30% Malbec 10% Merlot. This is another of the 1985 10 year anniversary wines, and it's definitely a winner in my book. This wine is now perfect and might show a little more fruit over the next few years. It is in a style that Suzann and I both really like -- Rhone like in the nose, with lots of leather. The taste is also dry and smokey, yet the fruit that's there is very velvety on the tongue. Suzann detected an off aftertaste at first, which I didn't, but it went away quickly. The wine was good with beef, although the rib-eyes in garlic sauce we ordered were not good cuts of meat (grumble). Oh well, they didn't even charge us a corkage fee. I believe I paid $15 for this and I've seen it still in the stores, so BUY IT and TRY IT!
Jon Lawry/GA Hobo 73352,1373 Egon Muller 1985 Scharzhofberger Kabinett Yep, another 85er! This was perhaps the strangest of the four German wines from '85 I'd gathered. It started off with a pungent odor and taste, but it blew off after a good while. The flavor was very much citrus, and very buttery as the glass warmed up a bit. But it just never leveled off for me into a stable taste. I liked the wine OK, but there was just something weird in there I can't describe. Maybe it was that petrol taste, more like gasahol, I don't know. The wife hated it.
Jon Lawry/GA Hobo 73352,1373 Domaine de Pesquier 1989 Gigondas Durn it, Robin, I looked all over the place for that Gigondas you drank with Bruce Douglas, and I can't find it. Guess you guys finished it (bg). I believe yours was the '90, but I went ahead and popped this one as you had warned the one you had was falling apart after being open a bit. Well this one ain't falling apart! I served it with a grilled pork sirloin roast and both were wonderful. I had never had a Gigondas before, but if this is what they're like, I'm in the club! The nose and initial taste resemble a Beaujolais or a fruity zin, but the middle and finish show more tannin and smokiness that I LOVE in those Rhone wines. IOW, BIG bold fruit up front, but a very refined and gentle finish. Lots of music in that bottle -- one of those big mouthful wines.
Tom Rossiter / MO 73054,664 Sbragia 1993 Chardonnay, PR I had lunch with Ed Sbragia today and one of the wines we tasted was the '93 PR Chard. I too thought there was a slightly sweet aftertaste and asked him about it point blank. He assured me the residual sugar is 0.15%; identical to the '92 PR and comfortably below the 0.2% cutoff. I found no 'off' odors or flavors (although I think I'm much less sensitive to these than JPB), and thought there was good fruit and a nice leesy finish. I agree the tannins seemed rough and overall like the '92 quite a bit better, but will reserve judgement for now. (BTW Ed prefers the '93 to the '92, felt the '92 was 'heavier' and more 'Burgundian' than he is shooting for; the opposite of what most winemakers would say!)
SHARON S. HOWARD 76021,3117 Duckhorn 1982 Merlot Last week end we drank our last bottle of 1982 Duckhorn merlot. It was still full of fruit, dark red purple, and very substantial. Our guests felt it could have kept for much longer. I served it blind and no one made it as a merlot because of its extract, weight and character. Wonderful wine.
Brian Wilkie 100273,3006 Chateau Grezan 1991 Faugeres, Grand Cuve Had lunch the other day (St.Patrick's) at Chez Capion in Gignac. New owner is offering very good food at reasonable rates. Wife had a cold and could not taste very well. So, I ordered a half bottle of an unknown red from a Domaine that I knew and this turned out to be a spectacular wine. Chateau Grezan (Faugeres) make this one and it is their Grand Cuve '91. Spectacular taste of red fruits and blackcurrant with an overall high taste of 'jamminess'. Bouquet nothing special but the taste and length were something else. Strongly recommended if available locally to any reader.
Brian Wilkie 100273,3006 Domaine de Fontcaude ? Montpeyroux The second wine is a real find and almost unknown even locally. It is made from grapes grown in Montpeyroux but the owner lives in my village (Gignac) and it is rumoured that he once worked at Domaine Trevallon in Provence. Name of Alain Chabanon and he calls his wine Domaine de Fontcaude. Not in the local phonebook and only been growing and making wine from these particular grapes over the last two years. I now possess one bottle for subsequent tasting later this year and will report afterwards to the Forum. However, this wine is to be found at Mas de Saporta where their Cave contains only the finest wines made in the CDL Appellation. These only find their way there if their Chief Oenologue - Mr.Granier - tastes and approves the wine. He clearly likes this one otherwise it would not get in the Cave. Price is high for a first time effort from locals - 48 FF a bottle - but it must be something very special for the foregoing reasons. I believe that the total production may be low, hence the price and current scarcity.
Arthur Johnson 74176,3252 Iron Horse 1991 Wedding Cuvee If you haven't tried Iron Horse for a while, well, do it now. A month ago, I had two of their Cabs (89 and 90) and one of their new sparklers (Vintage Brut 1990). All three were excellent, but now I have a new favorite. Yeah, it's pink and fizzy, but wait! The color is sensational -- pale sunset. And their bubbles have always been the best in California (which counts for more than most folks admit in a drink that is usually consumed cold). The bouquet promises something exotic and that's what you get on the palatea fragrance of honeyed-apricots that threads its way through the cherry, vanilla and toast. It's a really sensual, unFrench kind of taste that both Phylis and I went for big-time. I can't think of a better bubbly to celebrate the 16th anniversary of our first date (15th wedding anniv. is tomorrow). Pricey at $20 but IMHO deservedly so. In quality it's almost up there with 89 Roederer Hermitage. -
Ken Johnson [Oregon] 76035,2240 Rabbit Ridge 1993 Zinfandel Anyone tried this Dry Creek Zin from this Russian River Winery? I really enjoyed it. Although still young, lots of up front fruit, with the tannins and oak to provide nice structure. Robust style, good value, impressed me although I am not acquainted with the winery. Any opinion of the winemaker/winery? Comparable wines to suggest?
Marc A. Graziano 76463,2342 Fossi 1959 Chianti I had this wine the other night and it was incredibly youthful for such an old wine. The winemaker Fossi kept this in the barrel until three years ago when under pressure of the Italian DOC that he may lose his Chianti designation,so he bottled it. Can anybody out there verify this?
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE Reticent nose of minerals, sandalwood and fruit. Lots of soft, ripe, round flavors on the palate - mostly butter and baked apples. The mineral component really stood out on the finish and became somewhat coarse. Good balance. Pleasant but unexciting.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 SANTENAY CLOS DE MALTE Domaine Louis Jadot Herbal, tobacco, smoky nose with minty tones. Soft, round, simple fruit flavors. Light in body. Somewhat short on the finish. Minerally again on the finish. Not showing much today.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 AUXEY-DURESSES Domaine du Duc de Magenta Toasty, stinky, sesame oil nose. Soft entry, simple flavors. Light in body. Unusual, but not very interesting.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 PULIGNY MONTRACHET Big step up in quality from the previous wines. Elegant stony nose punctuated with aromas of spring flowers. On the palate a toasty, spicy set of flavors highlighting nice green apple, butter and floral complexity. Long finish, well balanced. Not terribly concentrated, but very nice for current drinking.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 BEAUNE GREVES Domaine Andre Gagey Limey, mineral nose with notes of acacia and flowers. Lots of pleasant peachy fruit with almond back notes. Not very complex. Good rich medium bodied style. Finishes a little short. Nice, but pales in comparison to the fantastic 1992.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET MORGEOT Domaine du Duc de Magenta Oaky mineral, chemical nose - very atypical of Jadot's Chassagnes. Flavors on the palate of vanilla and fruit are nice but somewhat dilute, not much extraction. Finishes deceptively long and minerally. Very awkward at this stage.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Domaine des Heritiers Louis Jadot Best white of the tasting. Toasty, smoky, nutty vanilla nose. Still very much closed and tight, but showing evidence of some richness and full body. Good typical Corton Charlemagne flavors of baked apple, pear and butter backed with a good stony, light hazelnut complexity. Not a blockbuster but very elegant. Reminded me of the 1988 Bonneau du Martray. Needs a few years to show well.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 SANTENAY CLOS DE MALTE Domaine Louis Jadot This appears to be an excellent year for red Burgundy. The wines seem to have the concentration of the 90s and top 91s. While not as ripe and fleshy as the 90s, I feel this is a more classically structured vintage that will need just a few years to start showing well. All of the wine tasted showed no lack of structure( a la 92). These are barrel samples pulled in January after the final blends were assembled. Bottling commenced in late January and through the beginning of March. Deep red fruit nose showing lots of wild cherry character backed by a very intense gunpowder complexity. On the palate somewhat tight and lean. The finish is not short, but astringent. Great nose that doesn't follow through on the palate yet.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE LA DOMINODE Domaine Louis Jadot Slightly toasty nose of minerals and red fruits. Good concentration of cassis and cherry flavors, but still very tight and closed. Clunky texture turning a little coarse on the finish.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 BEAUNE PREMIER CRU Deep jammy nose of cherry, plum and raspberry. Lots of concentrated, attractive plummy fruit on the palate, layered with a chocolate, coffee, spice character. Lean but very complex. Long on the finish. Very good for this appellation.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 BEAUNE CLOS DES COUCHEREAUX Domain des Heritieres Louis Jadot Very deep ruby color for a Beaune. Lots of oaky, vanilla notes on the nose, with hints of cocoa. Lots of good, clean plummy fruit mixed with a good dose of wood tannin, coffee and spice character. Long on the finish. Very pretty. Very concentrated.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 CH. DE POMMARD (Not owned by Jadot, but distributed by Kobrand) Very intense nose of cassis, wild cherry and gunpowder minerals. Concentrated flavors of raspberry, blackberry, and plum. Starting to show a little cocoa and coffee spice. Rich and full in texture. Closed and tight, with excellent structure for ageing. Very well balanced.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 NUITS ST GEORGES CLOS DES CORVEES Toasty, stinky, barnyardy nose. Pleasant flavors of berry, tea and cola, with a floral character at the finish. Typical Nuit St Georges earthiness. Pretty in a rustic sort of way.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN Concentrated nose of raspberry, licorice and minerals. Lots of full red and black fruit flavors mixed in with a little toasty, coffee character. Tight still and restrained. Long on the finish. Ultimately somewhat simple, but a good example of a village level wine.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN LES CLOS ST JACQUES Domaine Louis Jadot Wonderful deep, jammy black fruit nose, loaded with tons of coffee, toast and spice. Rich, full bodied and ripe. Very concentrated flavors of cherry, plum and cassis, highlighted by the judicious use of new wood. Round in texture, but showing excellent structure for cellaring. Classic Gevrey Chambertin. Very long finish. Grand Cru quality
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 CORTON POUGEOTS Domaine des Heritieres Louis Jadot Deep, dark ruby color for a Corton. Big nose of cinnamon, leather and berries. Loaded with lots of concentrated cherry and spice flavors. Very closed, but showing good balance and weight. Long complex finish.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 Louis Jadot 1993 CLOS VOUGEOT Domaine Louis Jadot Huge nose of raspberry jam and violets wrapped in oak and vanilla. Some toasty, spicy flavors peeking through now. Very tight. Exhibits a sense of richness and weight. Excellent balance and structure. Put this one in the cellar and wait. Should be a blockbuster in a few years.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 CHATEAU WOLTNER 1993 CHARDONNAY Howell Mountain The following are notes from a tasting held with Francis deWavrin-Woltner, owner of Ch. Woltner, on March 22. Having tasted the wines 5 months before, we were pleased to find that the wines were developing nicely. The wines were tasted at room temperature at our store, as well as over lunch at Star Canyon restaurant. All of the wines showed very well with Stephan Pyles Southwestern cuisine. The Howell Mountain bottling is textbook California Chardonnay. Good, clean ripe fruit not drowned in excessive oak. The upper tier of wines show more of a Burgundian profile however. The Estate Reserve demonstrates more of a Meursault-ish set of flavors, while the single vineyards could all be Chassagne Montrachets from a top producer. Most of the Howell Mountain Chardonnays I have tasted have been big, burly, super concentrated wines of amazing power and brute strength. These wines are atypical, eschewing dense cloaks of new French or American oak to demonstrate the purity of fruit and exquisite balance provided by the poor soils, low yields, and minimalist winemaking. These are elegant, well balanced wines that derive their strength from concentration and balance. All of the single vineyard wines should have no problem ageing for 5-7 or more years. Soft, peachy sandalwood nose. Rich, round texture. Ripe peach flavors spiced with nuances of toast, caramel and honey. Pleasant multilayered flavors with a nice mineral component on the finish. Very long. Very persistent. Great value.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 CHATEAU WOLTNER 1992 CHARDONNAY Estate Reserve Broad toasty, smoky nose. Less obvious fruit compared with the Howell Mountain bottling. Good citrus character on the palate wound around very complex notes of spice and honey. Great balance, with just enough acidity to keep the flavors lively. More of a minerally finish. Again very long.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 CHATEAU WOLTNER 1992 CHARDONNAY St Thomas Lime and citrus nose, mineral nose. Lots of lean apple and citrus flavors on the palate. Very tight at the beginning, but opened up nicely as time progressed. Nice floral, hazelnut and caramel flavors as the wine opened. Good crisp acidity. Very well balanced. Really needs a few years in the cellar.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 CHATEAU WOLTNER 1992 CHARDONNAY Titus Elegant nose of pears and peaches backed with a stony back note and surrounded by a rich lanolin aroma. Very stylish flavors of almond, flowers and sandalwood spice. Opened up to reveal a warm spicy, multilayered complexity. Extremely well balanced. Very long and complex.
Jasper Russo / Marty's 74642,221 CHATEAU WOLTNER 1992 CHARDONNAY Frederique Lean, toasty nose, almost Chablis-ish in intensity. Very closed and tight. After a while showed a very minerally character, layered with pear, green apple and spice. Revealed a hint of richness and creamy texture to come. Impeccable balance. Full bodied. This will need a number of years to achieve its potential. One of the few California Chardonnay's capable of extended ageing.
Manabu SAKUTA 100212,1601 Rue et Vincent Dauvissat 1992 Chablis 1er cru Vaillons Pale goleden yellow with pineapple and flint flavor. Good acidity, long but feeble aftertaste of honey. 85/
Manabu SAKUTA 100212,1601 Jean Boillot et Fils 1990 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere Pale-medium golden yellow with good flavor of pineapple.Multiple layers of good aftertaste. 89/
Manabu SAKUTA 100212,1601 G.Roumier 1988 Chambolle-Musigny Medium rose-red. Good flavor of sweet rose,plum and apricot. Tasteful but not much fruitiness. 86/
Manabu SAKUTA 100212,1601 Faiveley 1987 Gevrey-Chambertin les Cazetiers Pale rose-red with a hint of brick. Not good flavor and short aftertaste. 83/
Manabu SAKUTA 100212,1601 Leroy 1985 Nuit-St-George Medium rose-red with good flavor of rose,apricot .Good aftertaste. 89/
Manabu SAKUTA 100212,1601 Robert Ampeau 1974 Savigny-les-Beaune Lavieres Pale brick-red. Good flavor of apricot,rose,leather.Very mature and tasteful.90/
Manabu SAKUTA 100212,1601 Leroy 1979 Meursault Les Narvaux Medium golden yellow with good flavor of roasted nuts and honey. Good and multiple layers of aftertaste. 90/(donation of one person)
Manabu SAKUTA 100212,1601 Jean Gros 1955 Clos Vougeot Red brick. Afluent flavor of apricot and rose.Good aftertaste, but not more than 1959. 94/(donation)
denis hache 71004,414 various California 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon I just went to a tasting (club) and tried some might fine 1991 CA Cabs. The surprises were the 1991 Forman and Duckhorn with the best Mondavi Res. I've ever had. They also had all three Diamond Creek which were disappointing except for the Gravelly Meadows. Also the Togni had an awful nose and not much to taste. We had 2 bottles and notes were consistent. Ever had the Togni? Tasting Forman Diamond Creek - Volcanic Hill - Red Rock Terrasse - Gravelly Meadows Opus I Mondavi Reserve Togni Duckhorn - If this is their Cab, the merlot must be fantastic.
Robert W. Gibson 76242,1176 Cos and Pichon Lalande 1987 Red Bordeaux Drank my last bottle of 1987 Bordeaux tonight, all Cos and Pichon Lalande and have gotten more for less money in this vintage than most others. The Cos was medium ruby in color, a bit deeper in color and substance than off-year would suggest. Nose was black cherry, tar, and touch of camphor. Pleasant. Turned a bit more plummy after a couple hours. Underpinnings of tobacco in both nose and taste. Good beginning and middle. Tar and rasperry tastes at first, but becoming more plummy with time open. Some strawberry candy flavors I associate with some lesser Australian Cabernets, but not offensive. Only real flaw is vegetal taste in close and lack of follow-through - presumabley a limitation of vintage. Will not improve, but may hold longer than is predicted for 87s. Nice wine bought at reasonable price. Where can I find more good 1987s? In New York? L.A.? I'll be visiting both. None here in St. Louis.
Robert Helms 100436,1067 Ch. Branaire-Ducru 1976 Red Bordeaux I bought some 76 Branaire-Ducru at Christie's recently for less than $20. Opened the first bottle last night. Pretty good stuff, if anything better than I expected. medium dark garnet not a big bouquet (but that may be due partly to residual cold) biggish flavor, round, fairly classic St Julien, tannins quite subdued but no indication of decline on the old 20 point scale, about 18 or so
Jacob Shaya/ISRAEL 100274,2722 J. Drouhin 1989 Charmes Chambertin Imported 12/94 from Beaune for $48 net. Stood open to breath for about 40 minutes. COLOR: Light pinkish red. Noticeable paling towards the rim. Not a good color, even for (B). Especially for such a young wine (the Cazetiers, four years older, looked much more dignified). NOSE: Abundant fresh red fruit, intermingled with sweetish-soury nuances. Very good, though not dominant 'Bourgogne' nose. Wood is certainly not overwhelming. TASTE: Charming, vibrant taste revealing layers of fruit together with very good acidity and weak, yet noticeable tannins. Very tasty, and quite complex, though not what I would describe as 'lacy' mellow (B) experience (which the Cazetiers certainly is). LENGTH: Very long clean aftertaste. The vigor of this young wine, and the relative high acidity, leaves long, lasting tinges evolving in the mouth. BALANCE & TEXTURE: A medium bodied yet vibrant but delicate young wine. Acidity very pronounced, as well as fruit and some wood. Tannins receding already, and alcohol not particularly felt. It could use a bit more concentration, but maybe this is a fault of the vintage, not of the wine. OVERALL: An excellent (B) that may need a few more years to integrate the different ingredients (that are all there) into a homogenous nectar. MARK: 17+/20
Jacob Shaya/ISRAEL 100274,2722 Yair Margalit 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon Today we were invited to the yearly one-day wine tasting and sale at the 'Yair Margalit' boutique-winery. Yair Margalit, who hold a PhD in chemistry, is one of the best up-and-coming winemakers in Israel. His total yearly production is 5000 bottles. 3800 bottles are pure Cabernet Sauvignon, from a choice vineyard in the Upper Galilee (2400 ft). The remaining 1200 ("Special Reserve"), include 15% of wild Petit Syrah vines. I have tasted the 1993 last year from the barrel. It seemed very promising at that time. Actually much better than the already bottled 1992. Today we had the bottled 1993 wines. The 'regular', pure Cab, (at $23) is so rich and heavy, it is hard to believe this is pure, fermented, grape juice. The aroma is an overwhelming mingle of a thousand fruits and spices. The taste fulfills every promise of the nose, though the hard tannins still mask a lot. A very sensuous wine IMO, to be enjoyed in full 5-12 years from now. The 'Special Reserve', with 15% Petit Syrah, (at $28) is even better wine. The aroma is less 'wild' but more complex. The taste is smoother though the wine seems tougher as the tannins are even harder. The fruit is less pronounced, but a different, more interesting dimension is very much apparent. Must wait 6-7 years at least. Yair limits the purchase to one case per person. The remainder (if anything) is sold to a couple of restaurants and to a few wine shops.
