Jon Lawry/GA Hobo 73352,1373 Newton 1986 Merlot Had a bottle of this last night with some really yummy grilled beef filets and stir-fried potatoes, carrots, onions, ginger, and garlic. Upon opening, the wine had a strong musty smell and was almost undrinkable. The color was light red, and the wife thought she saw a tinge of brown, but danged if I could see it. We have really big glasses, so I fully divied out the vino to let it air as much as possible (accidentally put more in my glass). It took a while, but the mustiness did blow off, but not sure whether it did entirely. The fruit was slow in coming also, but did come up toward the end of the meal. The smokey, tannic taste was much more powerful. I had the '86 about a year ago and it was fantastic; have my tastes changed? But not having much experience with wines "over the hill" I think this might have been the problem. The bottle seemed carefully handled. Sure would like to get some feedback from someone else who's tasted this recently.
Jon Lawry/GA Hobo 73352,1373 Lang 1990 Zinfandel For New Year's Eve I baked up a delicious pizza made from Fontina, Goat, Parmesan, and mozarella cheeses and a spicy tomato sauce. I chose this zinfandel, well, because the wine closet's running a little low and it was there. Wow. This is the biggest in the full fruit category of any zin I've had so far. There was just enough smokiness (tannin and oak) in the aroma to put it in the zin family, but talk about your big round fruit!! I'm not too good yet at determining which fruit, but I want to say cherry or black cherry, but definitely big and round and right up front. Delicious.
Jon Lawry/GA Hobo 73352,1373 Domaine Carneros nv Champagne Our New Year's Eve was almost a repeat performance of our Xmas Eve this year -- just me and the beautiful wife and a friend, bubbly as aperitif, gourmet pizza with a great red wine. The bubbly here was a recco by someone on this forum recently, (sorry can't remember exactly who), a check of the old FileMaker database showed a favorable note already by Michael Laflin. This was the best champagne I've ever tasted, so we're making progress toward the higher-priced stuff. I think I've been kinda like a lot of people who think champagne is just sody water with a kick, but things are changing. First of all, I'm realizing that the finer the bubbles, the better I like it -- I certainly love the festiveness of sparklers, but normally wish I could taste more of the wine itself. This one allowed that splendidly with microscopic bubbles that were almost imperceptible to the naked eye and rose to form a very thin foam (head?) on the top. The wine itself was very yeasty and even a little nutty. Michael's review said "toasty," but I really don't know what that is aside from the stuff my wife burns every other day (bg). This is delicious champagne, especially good for someone looking for a huge jump up from supermarket bubbly, well worth the few extra bucks ($15).
Ken Malone/Austin Texas 71630,1462 Ravenswood and Ridge 1990/1991 Zinfandels All this talk about Zins has prompted me to sample a couple of goodies. At a recent holiday dinner we treid 3 Zins all blind: 1990 Ravenswood Dickerson, 1990 Ridge Lytton Springs and the 1991 Ridge Pagani. The favorite was the Lytton Springs. The fruit was deep rich and smooth and was evenly balanced from start to finish. It has gained some complexity since its release. I had to open two bottles since the first had a bad cork and the wine had a raisiny quality to it. The second bottle's cork has soft also but the wine was unaffected. ($11.25) The Dickerson by itself would be a great, great wine. Next to the Lytton Springs though it only showed well. Yes, there is a softening of the fruit, which was the very quality that I found attractive to begin with. The fruit showed best from mid-palate to finish. A superior wine but I will move up my time frame after tasting this one. There are some tannins there but they are not in danger of overtaking the fruit. ($14.) The Ridge Pagani has massive fruit, well-rounded though. Most liked it better than the Dickerson, especially after extended breathing. A real sweet wine in the late-harvest style. The second night we finished this one off and it was a marvelous wine. ($12) In summary, the Ridge LS has gained nuances without much loss of fruit, the Dickerson is well-structured Zin which has lost a little edge, and the Pagani has as much fruit packed in as any Zin I've had. No losers here, for sure.
Ken Malone/Austin Texas 71630,1462 Beaulieu Vineyards 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Interesting that [Pete] chose a BV Rutherford for your ham. We tried an 87 BV Rutherford with our ham, scalloped potatoes etc. Light tannins on this one, curranty with a small amount of oak but very smooth from start to finish. This guy is drinking great now!
Ken Malone/Austin Texas 71630,1462 Caymus 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate We had a great wine last night: 1985 Caymus Estate Cab, very intense, dense fruit lots of currant and oak, some tannins but quite complex. This one could use a year or two more but after breathing, showed very well.
David Doyle 73607,2060 ? 1983 La Tache Interestingly, I had a 1983 La Tache last night. Amazingly enough, the nose strongly reminded me of some of the Oregon wines I've had recently ... Still needed some time, though. Patina has a great wine list, and the La Tache was actually reasonably priced (for La Tache). It was an end-of-year celebration, so I figured what the heck. The wine smelled and tasted much like one of the better 1987 Burgundies. In other words, still quite youthful. Very straightforward pinot fruit. Good color (not deep) with no browning at all. Quite a bit of tannin at first, but with time it smoothed out nicely. I'd say drink it over the next 5-7 years. La Tache can age a very long time. Interestingly, we found that it went perfectly with Chantrelle mushrooms. It really brought out the fruit and spice in the wine. It's an obscure food and wine match to file away for future reference.
Stephen Haynes 71666,424 Mumm 1990 Cuvee Napa DVX Brut Methode Champenoise 12/31/94 - 1/1/95: New Year's Eve. An exceedingly pleasant bottle of California sparkling wine. Bouquet is very subtle, appearance pale yellow, with multiple rapid streams of very fine bubbles. Bountiful, light mousse pours over the tongue, with very brut crisp acidity. Tart apples and slight bitterness in finish. Has several years at its peak yet. A fine bottle for special occasions.
Stephen Haynes 71666,424 Dr. H. Thanisch 1983 Berncasteler Doktor Riesling Spatlese Notes from memory of a recent dinner. The 1983 Berncasteler Doktor Riesling Spatlese (Dr. H. Thanisch) was drunk as an aperitif. When it was first reviewed this wine of an otherwisely and justifiably highly rated producer was seen as not up to his normal standards. Drunk 11 years later, that impression is confirmed. A 1983 Spatlese of better quality should still be showing crisp acidity with a complexity of tastes. Here we had a rather monochromatic taste, with a nice but not outstanding bouquet, and a disappointing finish. Drink them up; they won't get any better.
Stephen Haynes 71666,424 Robert Mondavi 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Notes from memory of a recent dinner. My last bottle of 1973 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve disappeared accompanying a wonderful mushroom dish (Porcini al Forno Franco Casalboni [Oven-Glazed Porcini] from Lynne Rosetto Kasper's excellent book, _The Splendid Table_)]. The wine is clearly in its last few good years. It was not yet over the hill, but it had seen better years. Clearly browning at the edges, with a varietal bouquet, but not fruity at all. The taste was mature, long on the palate, but without the fruit and rubustness of youth or even middle-age. Tannin has totally resolved. Finish was unremarkable. For a California CS from 1973, a triumph, considering; but in the larger scheme of things, it should have been drunk 10 years ago.
Stephen Haynes 71666,424 Domaine de Madame Bernard de Courcel 1976 Pommard-Rugiens Notes from memory of a recent dinner. The last of my stock of '76 Pommard-Rugiens (Domaine de Madame Bernard de Courcel). In earlier bottles of this wine I had remarked on how young it still was, and how I was drinking up my stock much too soon. Well, with the last bottle we finally reached the pinnacle (or perhaps a little beyond). The guest we had for dinner vacillated between thinking the wine was at its peak or still too young. There was tannin in evidence, and still lots of black cherries on the palate. The bouquet was wonderful, and the color still youthful. The wine had thrown a fair amount of sediment, which well bespeaks a '76 Burgundy, given criticism since then of filtration and other techniques to make red Burgundies drinkable sooner. All in all, the best wine of the evening. (Accompanied marinated, grilled flank steak, polenta, a rich brown reduction sauce, and baby zucchini and button squashes sauteed in olive oil.)
Stephen Haynes 71666,424 Chateau des Gauliers 1959 Bonnezeaux (Vouvray) This is a sweet Vouvray: a 1959 Bonnezeaux from Chateau des Gauliers (Fourlinnie-Boivin, proprietor). I picked up two bottles in London ten years ago (and this is the first consumed). By reputation, the sweet Vouvrays are similar to Sauternes or great rieslings: they will last years. This bottle bore out that reputation, although it is definitely on its last legs. The taste was of a moderately oxydized sweet wine. Still distinctly sweet, it complemented well the cranberry pudding we had for dessert (very much like a plum pudding, but made with cranberries, with a butter/cream/sugar sauce -- recipe availabe upon request). The bouquet was reminiscent of a sweet sauvignon blanc without botrytis. We could still detect the Vouvray acidic crispness under the oxydization, and the finish was pleasant. Like I say, an oddity
Stephen Haynes 71666,424 Dr. Fischer 1983 Ockener Bockstein Riesling Spatlese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer). For those of you who are fans of this estate, this bottle once again justifies our faith in Dr. Fischer's winemakers' abilities. As was my experience with the 1975 edition of this same wine (which lasted into the 1990s, every bit as young as when it was first released), the '83 was full of fruit, crisp appley acidity, that wonderful Riesling bouquet, and a long, pleasant finish. I have too few bottles of the '83 left; wish I had many more.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Schloss Reicharthausen 1971 Hattenheimer Weisselbrunnen TBA This really is the way to usher in the New Year! I have very few TBAs and I decided that this was the year to open one of the oldies. I fretted a good part of the day about whether the cork would come out. Earlier today we had a 83 Saarburger Rausch Spatlese Zillikin from Zillikin that was corked. Upon removal the botrytis aroma soared out of the bottle and filled the room. Dark amber to brown and mahogany---but this is a vibrant wonderful wine. Tremendous botrytis---the wine is extremely sweet but there is still such temendous acidity that it is wonderfully in balance. Nose of petrol, sherry and wet leaves. This is a dense wine----like drinking syrup. Caramel, dried apricots, some mushrooms and a tremendously long finish. Great stuff.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Chateau Rouquette su Mer La Clape 1993 Cotes du Languedoc It's been a while since we've heard form La Clape. This year's version is quite nice. Garnet colored, with a spicey, fruity nose. Black fruits, spice, some chocolate and a medium finish. All in all, not bad. At $8.49 it's perhaps slightly overpriced. It's not quite as good as the Ermitage Pic St. Loup or the Calagor and clearly not as good as the Faugere---and it's about the same price.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Brunel 1993 Cotes d'Rhone, Cuvee Sommelongue Well, after a blockbuster 92, the 93 is definitely a let down. The 92 was a good concentrated wine that you would mistake for a high class CdP. This by contrast is quite light and doesn't seem to have much structure. Some light cherries and a few spices with a fairly short finish. Made more in a beaujolais style. It will be a nice summer quffer but not much more. It's in the $8 range here which makes it a bad value.
Bob Spector/OKC 72773,1014 Augustus Clape 1989 Cotes d'Rhone In addition to his Cornas, Clape produces a cuvee of CdR. I seem to remember from someplace that it is from a syrah vineyard near St. Peray. The 1989 is the only vintage that I've had a chance to taste. When first released it had tons of pepper and cassis. Four years later, the pepper has greatly moderated and the wine has gained a good deal of complexity. Tastes of earth, black- raspberries and hickory. Still some tannnins to indicate that there is room for future development. Medium-soft bodied with a silky mouthfeel that reminds me of a stepped down Cote Rotie. Nice finish.
Bruce Douglas 75140,1354 Eyrie 1988 Pinot Noir ... we opened an orphan tonight upon our return home from a trip to the desert. 1988 Eyrie Pinot Noir purchased for about $12 a few years ago. The color in the glass is tending towards more red than purple, but it isn't brickish yet and stays deep to nearly the edge. The nose is very burgundian with cherry fruit notes, and a clean scent, but perhaps a tinge of earthy tones. In the mouth the wine is succulent, round, deep and possessing that "sweet" taste that great pinot noirs develop. The balance is wonderful with plenty of acid to keep it from being flabby. The finish is long and satisfying. Now this is what pinot should be and so often isn't.
Bruce Douglas 75140,1354 Heitz, Mayacamas, Chappelet, Kenwood 1976/1977 Cabernet Sauvignon First up was a 1977 Heitz Bella Oaks which was wonderfully fruity and alive. This is consistent with a number of '77 wines which we have been drinking lately. If my remembery is correct 1977 was the second of two drought years in Northern California. We switched to a 1976 Mayacamas which was if anything better. It had a suppleness that I don't usually associate with wines from this producer. The usually strong tannins were subdued and in balance with the fruit. Next came a 1976 Chappelet which should have been decanted because the last few sips from a large glass showed the wine's potential. Unfortunately it didn't get a chance to really show its stuff. It was followed by 1976 Kenwood Artist's Series, which showed beautifully. Without knowing it would have been easy to imagine this wine as a much younger wine perhaps from St Emilion. A terrific wine. All of these older California Cabernets were very much alive with a lot of fruit remaining. I suspect some of that is attributable to the drought conditions. When these wines were younger they were hard and not very approachable.
Bruce Douglas 75140,1354 Ch Rieussec 1976 Sauternes Dessert was a bread pudding and was accompanied by a 1976 Ch Rieussec Sauterne. The full nose of fruit (peaches and apricots perhaps) just kept coming out of the deep orange liquid. You could imagine yourself in a sunny meadow alongside the orchard. Honey like tastes filled the mouth and continued into a long finish. Finally came the Edam cheese and a Dow 1977 Port which had been decanted for several hours. We even made it to 1995.
Bruce Douglas 75140,1354 Lytton springs 1981 Zinfandel This note was prompted by Alan's note from yesterday about the 1981 LS Zinfandel: Dark reddish purple with only the slightest thinning around the edge of the glass. The nose is explosive, fresh, ripe blackberries. The appearance and the nose are of a much younger wine. All of this while the wine was slightly cool at cellar temperature. We had decanted the wine and poured it into 12oz glasses. The fruit is immediately confirmed in the mouth. The tannins have subsided, but there is still plenty of structure. The fruit taste is strong with sweet overtones, but plenty of acid balance. Sharon just keeps smiling. The neighbors suspect a "plant", but this is the real deal. The finish is satisfying and totally consistent with the fruit which began with the nose. All in all perhaps ranking as the best zinfandel ever. Alas there was only one left. I have no real idea where the wine came from, but my acquisition cost in the inventory showed $6. I'd gladly pay $24 today for any that is around.
Bruce Douglas 75140,1354 Ridge 1991 LS Zinfandel This is the first bottle of this wine that I have enjoyed. It was opened behind the 1980 LS Zinfandel. For the first time the nose is true to berries without complicating aromas. This wine doesn't clarify the fruit as well as the '80 LS, but the longer it is in the glass, the more the characteristics emerge. There are berries and brambles, but not to excess. The longer it is in the glass the more it resembles the '80. Obviously deeper in color, and slightly more intense. Now later in the mouth the earlier characteristics are still there, but the finish has become "dusty". This is a pattern that has developed in this wine before. Has anyone else noticed it?
Tom Hemenway 75117,2002 Franciscan 1988 Chardonnay, Oakville Estate Cuvee Sauvage We had a delightful Murder Mystery Evening with various wines through out the night. I'll give my clouded morning after thoughts. Mag, Franciscan Oakville Estate Cuvee Sauvage Chard '88 Nose dominated by oak. Flavors were very subdued. Buttery with light pears & apples. A lesser version of the excellent '90. It's OK.
Tom Hemenway 75117,2002 Benzinger 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon Nice fruity nose with good flavors of sweet currant, plum and spice. A very nice house wine - super bargain at the original release of $3.69.
Tom Hemenway 75117,2002 Bernard Amiot 1990 Chambolle-Musigny AC Light ruby in color. Light nose of earthiness with a hint of mushroom. Good flavors of mushrooms, plums, cherry, with the dominant earthiness of a Chombolle-Musigny. A very good AC at a good price (for Burg) $32.
Tom Hemenway 75117,2002 Beringer 1990 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon I don't remember the nose (sorry). Oviously not ready. Tannins were moderate, but the flavors seemed a bit disjointed. It has super potential. A fine sweet base of anise, currant, plum, sage.
Tom Hemenway 75117,2002 Ch Montelena 1986 Cabernet Sauvignon Too much tannin. Like all the Montelena's of the '80s I've tasted it is just too tannic. OK flavors, but I didn't spend much time on it.
Tom Hemenway 75117,2002 Beaulieu Vineyards 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon, George le Latour PR Well, I've finally hit the famous BV bottle variation. This bottle was from 'Cilla, purchased on release and some later from the Wine Exchange. It had an overpowering mushroom and leather, both in the nose & mouth. Not good and not like the same I've had recently. WE INTERRUPT THIS MESSAGE TO BRING YOU ANOTHER MESSAGE... Tom's on the phone.. this is CIlla. So far, I agree with Tom's notes. I've had the 85 BV before and this bottle just didn't measure up. It was strange, Tom poured it for me to test... and I wanted to send it back..only it was my bottle. How embarassing!
Tom Hemenway 75117,2002 William Selyem 1992 Pinot Noir, Olivet Lane Not bad but not great. Cilla and I found it pretty average. Very earthy with very little fruit and a bitter bite. Not a very good aftertaste.
Tom Hemenway 75117,2002 Charles Heisdick nv? Champagne as the clock hit 12 and we welcomed 1995. This is one super buy for Champagne! Nice blend of yeast & fruit.
Tom Hemenway 75117,2002 Ch Climens 1983 Sauternes We finished the evening with Ch Climens 1983 Sauterne. This was served with Quick fryed Fois Gras. Both the Fois Gras and the Sauterene were super and a great way to finish a super night. Sweet fois gras that melted in your mouth - followed by a thick viscous mouth of apricots and honey.
Priscilla Faubel 75221,1501 Montelena 1986 Cabernet Sauvignon The 86 Montelena was a little more tannic than I remembered.. but I still love it. It's full of the Montelena fruit. This was not nearly as tannic as the 88 MOntelena or 88 Dunn Napa that we had at Tom's last week. Those wines were a big surprise. I didn't expect 88's to be soooo tannic.
Priscilla Faubel 75221,1501 Beringer 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon The 90 Beringer was very nice but seemed a little tight. I would like to try it again after it opens up a little.
David Glasser (Md) 73377,2465 Ch. Beaucastel 1988 Chateauneuf du Pape Again I finally got around to opening another bottle of this (with trepidation) after reading the last batch of TNs on this wine. Maybe I'm not well calibrated, but it did not seem thin or diluted to me. Color is still dark red, & nose is still full. There was less pepper & spice than when tasted 5 months & 1 year ago, but plenty of oomph left in the wine. The tannins are mellower. I still get some "barnyard". Perhaps since this is the first vintage of Beaucastel I've had, I'm missing something in comparison. I also have the '89 & agree that it is a much richer wine than the '88, but I don't sense that something is -wrong- with the '88, unless you don't like the "barnyard" component. I'll be curious to see if it is "developing" or "dying" over the next few years. I'm hoping for "development". VMS wondered if his DC-area distributor might be at fault. I'm not sure who distributed my wine, but I bought it in MD, between DC & Baltimore.
Jim Kronman/SYSOP/CA 76703,431 Ch La Mission Haut-Brion 1978 Red Bordeaux We spent our evening with one other couple (one of whom does not drink) and at their place, so wine consumption was held to a low level. The one treat was Ch La Mission Haut-Brion 1978, which is drinking very well. It has a well-developed nose and could stand to shed just a bit more tannin but there's no problem drinking it now.
ALAN BOEHMER 70524,411 Sylvester Vineyards, San Miguel 1992 Paso Robles Chardonnay, Kiara Reserve, Barrel Fermented $6.95 (Sale) This wine represents the winery's second vintage. For a wine this inexpensive, it drinks extraordinarily well. In San Luis Obispo County, Chardonnay seems to do very well in certain microclimates (Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande, Templeton); San Miguel has never been considered particularly suitable, being the hottest viticultural area in the county. The wine's label displays what appears to be a period drawing of the Mission San Miguel, surrounded by vineyards long since abandoned. The best grapes from San Miguel (part of the Paso Robles appellation) come from terraces above the Salinas River, several miles to the east. I would not hesitate to stock up on this wine for casual everyday drinking. Limited availability. Mine came from the Wine Cask in Santa Barbara.
ALAN BOEHMER 70524,411 Field Stone Vineyards, Sonoma 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon $15.Dark ruby, fading slightly at the edges. Nose slightly of sulfur and other minerals at first. Closed on the palate at first but later revealing dusty black cherries, flavors pleasant, fairly full, but nondescript. Moderately long finish, light viscosity. Tannins very firm, acids a little low. Could be dumb. Would hold for several years to find out, as the wine is not particularly appealing at this time. Taste buds could possibly be paralyzed from drinking fresh squeezed orange juice this morning for breakfast, made from lemons by mistake.
Alan Boehmer 70524,411 Eberle 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Paso Robles $28. Deep color, fleshy, chewy, good tannins, good acids, complex, plummy, cherry flavors, mixed with typical Paso Robles licorice and tar. Best structure I have found in any Eberle Cabernet so far. Will hold remaining bottles for at least 3 more years.
Alan Boehmer 70524,411 Wild Horse 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon, California $12 This may be the best regular release Cab Ken Volk has offered so far. Typical Wild Horse fruity seductiveness and drinkability with none of the local terroir characteristics which seem to be equally loved and hated. Rich tasting, full, delicious. Not structured for the long haul. Buy a bunch and drink it every day. You'll think you're in heaven.
Alan Boehmer 70524,411 Chateau Magdelaine 1985 Red Bordeaux, St. Emilion Grand Cru $40. Very attractive, typical St. Emilion. Excellent nose of cedar, mushrooms, and unusually deep fruit for a ten year old Bordeaux. Clear edges. Beautiful texture. Soft drinking, but still enough tannins left for further cellaring. I think this wine drinks very well now and would probably not choose to hold it much further, although there are no signs of fading at all. Only criticism was in the mono-dimensionality of the flavor components, delicious as they are. Good finish.
Alan Boehmer 70524,411 Lytton Springs 1981/1991 Zinfandel, Sonoma Present: Dale & Barbara Flynn, Inta Butkus, Alan Boehmer Also Present: Hearty Beef & Onion Soup (Recipe in Lib. 9) First, it must be noted that although these bottles share a common vineyard source, there are pervasive differences in the style of winemaking. I do not know whether this factor is due to the recent change in ownership or because of accommodation to current style preferences. It is always a glorious adventure to experience firsthand the effects of bottle age on a treasured wine capable of long range development. The opportunity came at a recent Christmas party when the host Dale, imagining me to be a connoisseur of wine, brought out a dusty bottle from his basement, the remnant of a wine club he had once belonged to. It was set on the table to augment what I had considered a generous supply of other wines which had been brought. "Is this any good?" he asked. It was, of course, the 1981 LS Zinfandel. "Dale, this could be a spectacular wine!" I suggested, recounting the distinguished history of this vineyard. Eyes widened, even those of attending teetotalers, eager to experience at least a sniff, inspired by my telling homily. I was able to convince all present that the wine should be presented in another venue, paired with the winery's current release. And so it came to pass in the fullness of time: a most unlikely assemblage of wine evaluators, which included Barbara, a teetotaler; Inta, a lady of Latvia and lover of everything edible and potable; Dale, who dislikes all red wine except Cabernet; and me, the ringmaster. Expectations were heightened, due to the advanced hoopla. We sat at a round table softly glowing from the light of several candlesticks and a blue-green three-foot high lustre, the priceless gift of a former student--now artist. Room lights were flashed on sporadically for color evaluation. The theater of this event would have carried the day even for Hearty Burgundy. The guests had taken note of the fact that I regularly exceed my allotment of trash barrels by a factor of three: one for garden clippings (I am an avid rosarian), one for trash, and one for wine bottles. "You must go through a lot of wine," suggested Dale. "I bet you open a bottle every day." "Well yes, actually, I do. Sometimes two. But I don't drink it all. I have this little can of nitrogen gas which I spray into the bottle to preserve the remaining wine for another occasion. Like breakfast." Dale opened the wine. The 1991 was uncorked without incident; the 13 year-old cork, however, disappeared into the bottle. Not to worry, though. I reached into my arsenal of tricks to rescue wine fauxpaux and produced an ivory chopstick, which I dropped into the errant bottle. This would prevent the cork from getting stuck in the neck while the wine was being poured. We started with the 1991, allowing the older wine some time to breathe. It is a big 14.5% wine in contrast to the 13.6% alcohol of the 81. "Oh, this is delicious," exclaimed Inta, reveling in the unpretentious forwardness, the strokes drawn in primary colors, the overwhelming body and depth of fruit. Fulfilling my role as Apostle of Wine in a community known more for its appetite for beer, I queried Inta about the aromas of the wine. "Smells like grapes," offered Dale, chuckling as he sought to discover the frequency upon which my notions were being broadcast. "Inta," I proceeded, "what kind of fruit? Do you smell anything else? Herbs? Earth? Wood? Flowers? Chemicals?" "Oh, yes. Flowers. Definitely flowers. Deep perfumed ones." "Like violets?" No one seemed to pick up on the obvious blackberry/raspberry aroma. "Let me smell," said Barbara as she snatched the glass from my hand, curiosity getting the best of her. "Oh, I know that smell. You won't want to hear it. It's methyl ethyl ketone. Film cleaner." We praised Barbara for her uncorrupted olfactory sense and recounted how all the great cognacs and scotch whiskies are blended by people constrained by law to be teetotalers. Unflattered, she countered by suggesting that we all probably suffered from depressed liver function and couldn't smell or taste anything at all. Those of us who tasted the wine agreed that the tannin levels were high, but I alone was bothered by it. I thought to lay this one down for at least five years; but by then, what would happen to all that enormous fruit? Would it be transformed into other, more interesting flavor components? Once the fruit declines, what else remains in a Zinfandel? Does it make any sense to build this kind of acid/tannin structure into a wine whose compelling dimension begins to fade after a few years in the bottle? We would soon find out. The 1981 was poured with anticipation into Inta's glass. Unexpectedly, the ivory chopstick shot out of the bottle and into her lap, leaving a ruby stream in its wake. After settling the party animals down and sponging the tablecloth, we awaited Inta's return from the powder room. At long last the moment of truth came. Le coup de grace. Noses were buried in the oversized glasses. Sounds of contentment and satisfaction resounded, stimulating Barbara's curiosity once more. As she swirled my glass in preparation for another objective pronouncement, Dale offered his comment. "Now THIS is wine! Smells like a Cabernet. (It did.) "Inta, what do notice that's different from the 91?" I asked. "Oh, it's very different. There are several things I smell in this wine." (That was perceptive; the wine had developed a complexity not present in the 91.) Inta was unable to specify the flavor and aroma components she perceived. I thought to suggest some. "Mushrooms? (no) Raspberries? (yes, maybe) Cork? (no) Ivory? (no, silly) Rose? (yes, definitely) Dried rose petals? Potpourri? (yes, yes) Wood? (not sure) Cedar? (oh, yes) In addition, Barbara found oak leaf mold and I found a warm, truffley component similar to some older Bordeaux. But what about the fruit? "It's still there!" (Inta) Yes, but balanced with other layers of flavor and aroma. Not the same kind of fruit that we found in the 91; that is, overwhelming big and ripe. In the 81 it was pleasantly subdued, making the wine drink somewhat drier. Could we still tell that it was a Zinfandel? Not by the nose. Dale was right on that count. It was like a Zinfandel wrapped in Cabernet's clothing. But it did not taste like a Cabernet. There were characteristic Cabernet dimensions missing. And delicious as this wine was, I did not find it quite as complex as a comparably aged Cabernet, and nowhere nearly as complex as a Bordeaux. Nevertheless, the 81 clearly outperformed the 91 in every way. Our conclusion (based upon this and other similar experiences)? When Zinfandels are made with sufficient structure to allow cellaring, they should by all means be held. Such wines do not drink nearly as well in their youth because of high tannin and monodimensionality of the flavor components. High alcohol and fruit alone will not save the day; the wines must be balanced and structured for the long haul. Over time, Zinfandels do take on some Cabernet characteristics; but at least som some of them seem to maintain the focus of their birthright. Hard on the heels of a delightful experience with LS 81 vs. 91, I opened a bottle of Meridian Paso Robles Zinfandel 1989 to accompany a searing curry made from pork, cauliflower, raisins, ginger, and habanero peppers. I am sad to report that the wine was an utter disappointment. I first tasted this 14.6 highly extracted behemoth just prior to its release in 1992 and found it wonderfully delicious (apologies to Mark); it was a gift from a competitive winemaker, known for his Central Coast Zinfandels. The concentrated flavors, high alcohol, and moderate acids and tannins seemed at that time to mitigate the 20 months in small oak. Presently, this wine appears to me to be wildly unbalanced, with the wood dominating. The fruit has lost the brightness of its youth, but not it's concentration. Other dimensions have not replaced the attractive fruit and the overall taste impression is one of bitterness. This raises again the question of structure in Zinfandel. Could it be that some of the factors which seem to allow Chardonnay to age also come into play with Zinfandel: leanness, moderation, balance? Might it be that highly extracted, high alcohol Zins, like similar Chards, are best consumed in their youth?
Robin Garr/Sysop/Ky 76702,764 Reserve St.-Martin 1993 "Val d'Orbieu" Vin de Pays d'Oc Marsanne $5.99. Clear straw color. Peaches, litchees and a whiff of licorice aroma carry over intact to the palate, with fresh, crisp fruit and piercing acidity. Peaches and pleasant bitter-almond in a long finish. Very good wine (probably best of the three RSM varietals I've sampled recently); very good value.
Robin Garr/A-Sys/KY 76702,764 Rene Barbier 1987 Penedes (Spain) Cabernet Sauvignon $5.99. Dark garnet in color, with an appealing scent of blackcurrant-cassis with spicy oak and herbal notes. Extracted fruit flavor, with approachable tannins and soft but sufficient acidity. Very Bordeaux-like, and excellent QPR. Very good wine, very good value. (Imported by Freixenet's California subsidiary.)
Robin Garr/A-Sys/KY 76702,764 Wild Horse 1993 Monterey Pinot Blanc (can't find the receipt right now, but around $10, I believe). Clear, light-gold color. Fresh apple and light tropical fruit aromas, very nice. Full honey-apple flavor, possible threshold residual sugar well contained by steely acidity. Chard-style for sure, but very GOOD Chard, which renders it forgiveable. <g> Very good wine, good value.
Ed Flinn/AsstOp/CT 73127,1476 E. Guigal 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape - gift - Deep purplish red color. Full earthy berry smell, oak. Ripe tart berry flavor, rich. Full body, fruit well-balanced with acid, a touch earthy. Long berry finish with some bitterness at the end. Very good wine.
Ed Flinn/AsstOp/CT 73127,1476 Chateau d'Aqueria 1993 Tavel Rose - 10.99 - Medium salmon color, deep for a rose. Mild smell, hard to place, maybe melon and cranberry? Dry fruity flavor, apple and melon, mild berry. Light body, tart acid. Medium berry/apple finish with a bit of oak and a hint of warmth in the belly. Good wine, fair value.
V MICHAEL STRAUS 74732,1566 VEUVE CLIQUOT 1985 CHAMPAGNE - The color was medium/light gold. The nose was excellent with full fruit, yeast, light toast. The taste was of full fruit, bright acid, toast, yeast and full body with a very long, fruity/toasty finish. An excellent Champagne needing more bottle age. Rate 95
V MICHAEL STRAUSS 74732,1566 CH. MOUTON BARON PHILIPPE 1966 REDJBORDEAUX, PAUILLAC - The color was red/brick. The nose was classic pencil lead/cedar and alcohol. The taste was austere Cab. fruit, good tannin/acid balance, smooth, pleasing, but somewhat over the hill. Nice, if too old, wine. Rate 87
V MICHAEL STRAUSS 74732,1566 KISTLER 1988 CHARDONNAY, McCREA VINEYARD - The color was nice light gold. The nose was excellent, with perfume, apple/peach fruit and a bit of bread. The taste followed the nose with crisp fruit and good acid, a light toast with a very light butterscotch tone; there was a slight thinning in the middle. It was medium bodied with a moderately long austere fruit finish. Rate 89
V MICHAEL STRAUSS 74732,1566 BONNEAU DU MARTRAY 1986 (B) CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE - The color was a pretty medium gold. The nose was full mellow fruit, wood, alcohol. The taste was full-on austere mellow fruit, butter, toast and wood. The body was full, with a strong mouth-feel with bright acid and a vague citrus character. The finish was excellent, long and the otherwise austere fruit turned into a sweeter fruit on the finish. An excellent wine but needs more time. Rate 93
V MICHAEL STRAUSS 74732,1566 DRC 1980 (B) ECHEZEAUX - The color was light red/brick. The nose was beautiful perfume with subdued fruit and wood. The taste was smooth as silk, aged austere fruit, good acid balance to only moderate tannin. A touch thin for a DRC, but this was not a great vintage. Finish was long and austere fruit and wood. Nice wine if a bit over the hill. Rate 89
V MICHAEL STRAUSS 74732,1566 PENFOLDS 1981 GRANGE HERMITAGE - The color was dark red with some brick showing. The nose had light spice, wood and old fruit. The taste was silky smooth with a perfect balance of tannin and acid -- neither intruded on the other. The fruit was mellow and bordering between austere and full, but certainly old. This was a very easy wine to drink, but was not as spicy or full-bodied as it could have been. Still good stuff. Rate 88+
V MICHAEL STRAUSS 74732,1566 RIDGE 1989 PETITE SIRAH - The color was almost opaque red/purple. The nose was strong full fruit and wood and alcohol. In the mouth, the wine was aggressive, showed its youth, full sweet-fruited, wood, strong tannins balanced by good acid, alcohol, big-bodied with an excellent balance for such an aggressive wine. It had a long finish of full fruit, tannin and wood. This wine has a long life ahead. Rate 90+
V MICHAEL STRAUSS 74732,1566 CH. BEAUCASTEL 1989 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE - The Buddy and I had opened this one the night before because it was leaking, thanks to our friendly DC distributor, no doubt. On New Year's Eve, it showed very strong. It was still its dark, brooding red. The nose was full Beaucastel, which the Brett posse would hate, but we loved, every one of the 8 people tasting it. The taste was full, sweet but closing fruit, big tannins mellowing from its release, good acid balance, wood, alcohol, big body, fine wine. Rate 93
V MICHAEL STRAUSS 74732,1566 PETER SCHANDT (AUSTRIAN) 1988 TRAMINER, RUSTER, EISWEIN - The color was lovely golden. The nose had spice and fruit with what seemed like "wood". The taste was full lightly spicy fruit, pleasing sweetness, but with finesse and crisp acid, medium full body, very long fruity sweet finish with citric- like acid. An excellent dessert wine. Rate 91
V MICHAEL STRAUSS 74732,1566 WARRE'S 1963 PORTO - I opened this one because of the comments between JPB and myself. The color was medium/light red, thin looking. The nose was alcohol, some old fruit. The taste was moderately sweet, alcohol, dying fruit, dusty, full bodied. The wine was "good", but not what I would want from a '63 Porto. This confirms what JPB and I think about Warre's, IMO. It was good but that is all -- '63 was a great vintage, so Warre's should have produced a wine up to the other producers' standards. Perhaps JPB and I simply do not like "austere" in our Portos. Does anyone know how the writers rate this one? Rate 83
Russ Davis 74757,310 Veuve Cliquot 1985 Champagne The 85 Veuve Cliquot I opened for new year's eve was good, but still tight and did not have the yeastiness that I love. I do think it will get much better in the future, so plan on holding the rest of my supply for a few years.
Peter Katz/Avon,CT 75017,2360 Peter Michael 1991 Chardonnay, Mon Plasir The 91 Peter Michael Mon Plasir chardonnay was my first try of a wine from this winery. It was excellent lots of lush delicious sweet fruit. A soft malolactic style with oak held in check by the ample fruit. Excellent. I'd put it just a notch below the 92 Mount Eden Estate which just has some more concentration and impact - but it's a similar style. I also have a bottle of the 91 Peter Michael Clos Du Ciel. Should I expect the same from this wine?
Peter Katz/Avon,CT 75017,2360 Ch. Pichon-Lalande 1983 Red Bordeaux - this wine tasted and looked incredibly youthful. I bought it as part of the winery's re-release last year and it shows what a difference real good storage makes. Not even the slightest hint of oxidation or browning. The tannins were youthful but modest. Bright soft cherry fruit. This wine has years of pleasure ahead of it. My one complaint is that it was so youthful that it lacked the complexity one would expect from an 11 year old wine.
Jay Baldwin [Detroit] 74431,2517 Domaine Pegau 1985 Chateauneuf du Pape I brought one of my two remaining bottles of '85 Domaine Pegau CNDP to Joel's for New Year's Eve. Joel and I developed a theory that this wine may have only recently come to the USA from the winery, and that it may have been stored in some COLD cave at Pegau. The wine seems hardly evolved at all! It was good, but it didn't exactly knock my socks off since it was absent any hint of a "mature flavor profile." Unevolved and maybe still somewhat closed, too. You may want to wait at least a year. Or -- another theory -- it may have been a bit of travel shock. But trust me, there's no risk in waiting a year. Of the Pegau's I've had in the past few months (85, 89, 90, 92), the 1990 is drinking the best right now.
JP Miller 75373,3273 Laurel Glen 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon Perfectly mature, elegant wine. Slight herbal notes over casis and dark cherry. Enough thrust to carry a satiny smooth finish for some time. Tannins integrated. Should continue to drink well for 3-7 years.
JP Miller 75373,3273 Jadot 1986 Meursault Perrieres Wow! Powerful fruit with hazelnut and pain grille aromas and flavors. This wine was a total knockout with great nose, intense palate, and a finish forever. I cannot ever remember having a Jadot white burgundy that was less than good. This was otherwordly. Only his Corton tops this.
james rodewald 74427,136 Opus One 1984/1985 Red Table Wine (Meritage) A very pleasant surprise to see some bottles of Opus One sitting on the bar at a NYE party I attended as spouse (party thrown by my wife's boss). Further inspection showed '84 and '85, with only the latter open. The '85 was soft, somewhat reserved, and very drinkable. I worried that the spicy appetizers I'd eaten before discovering the Opus might be affecting my buds so I ate a few crackers. My impressions remained consistent - very nice, but not the killer red I expected. By now the bearer of good imbibings had asked the 'tender to cork the '84 so I hustled over and stuck out my glass. Now we're talking. Bigger nose with just a hint of funkiness that blew off quickly. Bigger, fruitier, more my style. Needless to say I stuck with the '84. The bartender, BTW, disagreed with a few of us. He much preferred the '85, but then he's French and the '85 was more elegant and refined (perhaps wasted on my Northern New Mexico chile- fied palate). Both had velvety-smooth mouth feel. My wife and I were both pleased that this highly regarded wine wasn't head and shoulders above what we've been drinking. And best of all we've been invited by the Opus bearer to taste some Dominus which he much prefers to the Opus. All in all an excellent start to '95.
james rodewald 74427,136 Ravenswood 1989 Pickberry Blend $14.99 (closeout bin, Garnet, NYC, awhile ago). 39% Cab. Sauv., 33% Cab Franc, 28% Merlot. Inspired (and scared of finding no fruit) by Michael Gat's recent note on the '87 Pickberry, I opened one of my '89s. Once the temperature got to drinkable I enjoyed this bottle very much. It wasn't as fruity as I remember, but there was enough to make me keep sipping. Black cherry and other dark fruit, warm (13.6% alcohol), nice long, mouth-drying finish. A good food wine. I got a hint of what an acquaintance calls "band-aid box." I wouldn't have said that if he hadn't put it in my head. What is that anyway? The wine is still very lively, beautiful ruby color, but I am worried that once the tannins fade there might not be much else. I'll try to save a bottle just to find out. I'm guessing this will eventually develop that velvety texture I like so much. It was a relief to find it as good as it was. Now what about that '90? One other thing. On the label, opposite the usual Surgeon Gen'l thing, was the following: "Research has reconfirmed that wine is most often used moderately and responsibly and contributes significantly to the American culture, society, and economy." I'll drink to that.
Michael Laflin 75024,551 St Francis 1990 Sonoma County Merlot Reserve (unblind) Ruby, garnet color, somewhat on the light side. The nose fluctuated between dark berry fruitiness when first opened, to hot and a bit oaky on standing, to weak fruit and some vegginess after warming. The taste was much better with up front cherry, berry fruit and full, round, mild tannins with a very long finish. All in all a pleasant but slightly eccentric wine. My swirling arm definitely got a work-out.
Michael Laflin 75024,551 Iron Horse 1985 Alexander Valley Fume Blanc slightly golden color. Not much in the nose. Pleasant in the mouth without much fruit left. The main thing that surprised me was the lack of the oxidation I associate with over the hill CA whites. Faded but not dead.
Michael Laflin 75024,551 Ventana Vineyards 1988 Monterey Sauvignon Blanc A pale golden color belies the age here also. Again a weak nose with some hints of grassiness. In the mouth another pleasant wine with better body and a nice finish. I guess I need to keep up with my SB's better. I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of oxidation. Faded but not dead.
Michael Gat (OR) 75016,662 Ravenswood 1987 Pickberry Blend, Sonoma Mountain 50% Cabarnet Sauvignon, 35% Cabarnet Franc, 15% Merlot. Darkish red coloring. Somewhat oaky nose. In the mouth it is clear that this wine is past its peak. Fruit is evident but somewhat muted. Oakiness and acidity remain more noticable. The finish is long with hints of the dark, full-bodied and concentrated flavor which was typical of this wine when it was young. Another one that I should have drunk when it was younger.
Gary Reams 71550,2543 Kalinda ? Cinsault Anybody tried Kalinda Cinsault from K. & L. wines in San Francisco? I like it. Hows that for an indepth tasting review? A votre sante'
Doug Powers 75717,2654 Brunel 1992 Cotes du Rhone ... I retasted the '92 Brunel CDR tonite (unblind) and I guess I was a bit harsh in my prior assessment, though it's a bit more "rustic" in style than I'd like (I guess compared to the silky style of the Guigal and even the '88 Coudoulet I reported on recently). That said, it is quite good juice and a real mouthful, though I still prefer the '90. I will be looking for this wine high and low in the next great vintage of CDR!!
Doug Powers 75717,2654 Chateau Montelena 1984-1987 Cabernet Sauvignon Our group (sans Dennis) tasted six vintages of Chateau Montelena Cabernets tonight single blind -- 1982-1987 vintages. My brief notes follow, listed in my rank order with group rank and group score in parentheses (six tasters). (1) 1987 -- dark, dark purple, no signs of age, intense vanilla bean aromas overlay blackfruits and cassis, on the palate immense, ripe, yet balanced fruit with those trademark Montelena tannins, long, long finish, needs a lot of time but seems to have terrific balance (3, 18) (2) 1986 -- dark ruby/purple, some coffee/tea aromas suggested some age, on palate loads of new oak and blackfruits and substantial tannins, intense yet lacks the balance of the '87 and '85, this wine also for me started to develop by the end of the night a somewhat rustic, almost coarse quality (1, 17) (3) 1985 -- dark ruby/purple, vanilla/new oak, otherwise not much aromas, medium-full, ripe red and blackfruits, good tannins but they seemed rounder and riper than those in the following three wines, this wine had great balance, and IMHO was the best balanced wine (though the '87 had more intense fruit) (4, 19) (4) 1983 -- dark ruby, showing some mature tea/coffee/anise notes in its aromas, medium-full, a bit leaner fruit than other wines, still a bit tannic, good but not great finish (6, 30) (5) 1982 -- dark ruby, new oak, cassis, black currant aromas, on palate rich fruit that is currently dominated by a very high level of hard, astringent, drying tannins, if the fruit survives the tannins this could be nice (5, 24) (6) 1984 -- dark ruby, this wine was very controversial as myself and another taster had it last while three tasters had it first, intense blackfruits, both currants and berries, huge, ripe fruit, but a veritable boatload of tannins that were overwhelmingly astringent and drying for myself, this wine lacked the balance (IMHO) of the three newer wines, others liked its aromatic development and palate feel while not finding the tannins too hard or astringent (2, 17) While all of these wines had substantial levels of tannin, we noticed a polish and roundness to the wines and the tannins starting in the '85 vintage - our host indicated that starting in that vintage no press wine was added to the final estate blend, which might have accounted for the subtle change in style.
Peter Creasey 75021,3606 Taittinger NV Brut Champagne Medium golden yellow, generous small lively bubbles. Perfumed yeasty nose, nice fullnes in BQ, fruit undercurrents. Crisp and concentrated on palate, medium acid, dry fruits, medium balance, some desirable creaminess and toastiness, developed nicely. Nice full clean finish. This wine has probably been in my cellar for 5 or so years. It would do nicely, to my taste at least, for many more years. Served with Sevruga caviar, then seafood gumbo.
Peter Creasey 75021,3606 Durney 1990 Carmel Valley Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon Dark inky red. Silky cassis BQ, oaky tones, blackberries. Blackberry/cassis fruits, medium tannins, smooth oak, elements in balance, touch of tar, some complexity, good density, hint of vanilla. Long full finish that retains concentration. This wine may be hard to find but is worth seeking out. It will definitely make good old bones. Served with ham, blackeyed peas, baked potato, and then JoAnne's pecan pie a la mode.
Steve Ruhnau 70414,1676 Narrow Guage Inn 1984 or 85 Cabernet Sauvignon Over new years weekend I was stuck <g> in the S. CA mtns skiing and drinking fine wines. I brought our last bottle of a Cabernet from the Santa Clara Valley labelled as the Narrow Guage Inn Cab (84 or 85). We bought a few bottles at this inn at the south entrance to Yosemite a few years back. The proprieter recommended "drinking it now" in 89 but we kept the last bottle til this weekend. It was a hit...very smooth, deep finish w/ a great Cabernet nose and color. It even impressed the box wine drinkers in the cabin who usually disdain a fine wine.
Steve Ruhnau 70414,1676 Stag's Leap 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon, SLV-Fay Another notable was an 89 Stag's Leap SLV-Fay Cab...very nice...more tannin but not harsh...very smooth, w/ a deep finish...I loved it.
Steve Ruhnau 70414,1676 Ferrari Carano 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon Not so notable was an 89 Ferrari Carano Cab...had that youngish Cab taste w/ very little finish. Not a bad wine...just not a great wine.
Jim Holmes/SL9/Anch AK 71773,3276 Montinore Vineyards 1990 Pinot Noir, Winemaker's Reserve Willamette Vly, Oregon ~$17 Nice ruby color, wonderful nose of bright cherry and blackberry. Little of the earthy aromas that have put Pam and I off from other Pinots. Great fruit in the mouth, with lots of cherry and blackberry. Moderate tannins, balanced acidity. Wonderful long, smooth finish with vanilla, a slight hint of tobacco/leather and more fruit. Very nice wine, nice value.
Jim Holmes/SL9/Anch AK 71773,3276 Z. Moore 1991 Gewurztraminer, Puncheon Select Russian River Vly, California ~$10 at the winery Nice nose with lots of citrus and a bit of melon. Very bright acids, but not overpowering. Pretty dry wine (lablel says 0.9%RS). In the mouth oranges, apples, and disappointingly little of the normal gewurtz spice. Fair finish with just a bit of oak. OK wine, fair to poor value. Most of the Z. Moore wines I had were pretty disappointing -- too over-oaked and little if no gewurtz snap. This just continues the trend... :-(
timothy j. baker 76170,1417 Konrad Estates 1990 Zinfandel about $10. This is from Mendocino County. Smooth and easy drinking, but with a slightly bitter taste of shiny green leaves on the finish. Okay wine, okay value. Others in the group of eight liked this considerably more than I did.
timothy j. baker 76170,1417 Sausal 1990 Zinfandel about $10. Medium dark color for a zin. Definite taste of raspberry with some vanilla on the finish, reminiscent of creme soda. Lacked the spiciness that I like to find in zinfandel. Overall, smooth and flavorful. Decent wine at a fair price.
timothy j. baker 76170,1417 DeLoach 1993 Zinfandel, Gambogi Ranch about $15. This was the first of three single-vineyard zins from DeLoach, all from the Russian River Valley. They were surprisingly different. I don't know if different winemaking methods were used, or if the terroir made so much difference. Instructive, in any event. All three were quite light colored for zinfandel, tending towards a pinot noir shade. This one was in the middle of the color range. It had a slight sweetness when it hit the tongue, and then picked up a gingery flavor behind some good black fruit. Slight harshness on the tongue, from American oak I suppose. I liked this quite a bit and rated it the best of the three DeLoaches. I was in the minority on this, though. Good wine, okay value.
timothy j. baker 76170,1417 DeLoach 1993 Zinfandel, Papera Ranch about $15. Very light color and flat as a pancake on the palate. What happened here? This was a real puzzler. It had neither zip nor zing. Lack of acid? There was some fruit and some spice, but my overall impression was of two-day-old ginger ale. Poor wine, poor value.
timothy j. baker 76170,1417 DeLoach 1993 Zinfandel, Pelletti Ranch about $15. Darkest of the three and the most popular of the DeLoaches at this tasting. Similar to the Gambogi, but with more tannin. I found it to be the sweetest of the night's wines. I rated it just a hair below the Pelletti. In six months I might like it better, though. Good wine, okay value.
timothy j. baker 76170,1417 Rosenblum 1992 Zinfandel, George Hendry Vineyard about $18. Wonderful, wonderful stuff. Unfined and unfiltered. Medium dark color, with a big fruity nose. Rich spicy fruit on the palate, with hints of coffee and ginger or maybe cinnamon. long finish. This was the first Rosenblum I've had. I want more. Excellent wine, fair value.
timothy j. baker 76170,1417 Ridge 1992 Zinfandel, Lytton Springs about $18. This was also a big, fine wine. More jammy fruitiness than the Rosenblum. Quite heavy and almost black in color. Some tar in the nose. Different in style than the Rosenblum, but just as good. Excellent wine, fair value.
timothy j. baker 76170,1417 Ridge 1992 Zinfandel, Pagani Ranch Late Picked about $20. I seem to have forgotten to take notes on this one. Too much of the previous two, I imagine. I've had this before, though, and think it's terrific. A fat wine with a buttery feel and taste, unlike any other zins that I know. Wild berries mixed in with the butter. Excellent wine, fair value.
