Each year about this time, thousands of college coeds--and the boys who follow--head south for the annual rite known as "Spring Break." It's no wonder--a trip to the tropics offers a much needed respite after months of cold, dreary winter weather, and Florida has been the focus of this phenomenon ever since Connie Francis went to Fort Lauderdale in the 1960 film "Where The Boys Are."

We were a part of that mass Easter exodus each year, but quickly tired of the Daytona Beach and Fort Lauderdale party scenes and set sights farther south to get away from the rowdy Spring Break crowds. What we found was much more enjoyable and affordable adventure on the islands of the Florida Keys--and some excellent fishing.

Despite being out of school for more years than we'd like to admit, we haven't missed a Spring Break since, and in doing so we've found ways of making a tropical Spring Break vacation even more exciting and economical.

Camping Is The Key

The first trick to saving money on a south Florida Spring Break trip is to camp instead of staying in a hotel. We learned quickly that while hotel rooms along the Gold Coast were going for over a hundred dollars a night, campgrounds went for a song. That means as much to us now as it did in our "starving student" days.

The best thing about camping in the Keys, though, is it's by far the best way to experience the unique out-of-doors atmosphere life on the islands has to offer. That's especially true if you stay at one of three Florida State Park campgrounds spread across the 120-miles of the Keys. Driving south from Miami, the first park you'll see is John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park; further south is Long Key State Park, just north of Marathon, which is roughly halfway down the island chain. Our favorite, Bahia Honda State Park, is 20 miles or so south of Marathon. Many people consider Bahia Honda one of the most beautiful parks in the nation, and after camping there for over a decade, we understand why.

Bahia Honda Bliss

For instance, at the Sandspur Beach end of Bahia Honda's campground, you can pitch a tent scant yards from the Atlantic, on one of several primitive campsites landscaped to offer each a private waterfront view while screening each camping area from adjacent campers. The fee is under $20 per night, depending on the site.

We have snorkeled to catch lobster within shouting distance of our campsite, and cooked them in milk from coconuts picked up while clearing a place for our tent. I don't know of anywhere else in the continental U.S. where campers have that opportunity.

More so than in other areas of the country, camping in the Keys is easy too. Because of the cooperative tropical climate, you don't need expensive RVs, campers, or motor homes to be comfortable. All you really need is a basic tent to offer protection from rain, for this time of year even the mosquitoes and "no-see-ums" aren't the problem to campers that they can be in the summer months. Because of the climate, you'll only be spending your sleeping hours inside anyway-- there are just far too many outdoor adventures to take advantage of in the Keys.

The Fishing's Fine

Snorkeling for your dinner is just one of those adventures. Fishing, whether for sport or for supper, is easy too, and when fishing in the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico waters that meet and mix along the Keys, you never really know what's going to show up at the end of your line.

We usually save the fishing for the evening hours, when we light a lantern and sit on one of the fishing access catwalks or old bridges that cross the channels between the Keys. One of the best fishing spots is on the north side of the old Overseas Railroad bridge on the west end of Bahia Honda State Park. By bottom fishing at night with medium- to heavy-weight spinning or bait-casting tackle and pieces of mullet or shrimp, we have caught snapper, grouper, grunts, rays, and sharks--the latter up to 60 pounds! Live bait can bring attention from tarpon and snook, which also respond to large crankbaits and other big artificials. The same species can be taken during the day, too.

You also have your choice of dozens of fishing charters that specialize offshore, blue-water trolling, or backcountry trips for bonefish and tarpon.

To save on chartering fees, which can run into several hundred dollars a day, we trailer our own boat to the Keys, and use it as a daytime base of operations. Since purchasing a larger, 17-foot boat with a cuddy cabin, in recent years we have boat- camped, renting dock space at $2.50 per foot per night at the boat basin at Bahia Honda.

Cooking the Catch of the Day

Because winter and spring are popular vacation seasons, the prices at Keys' restaurants and in some of the shops are their highest of the year. By camping, you sidetrack those expenses, especially if you prepare your own meals. Groceries, especially fruits and vegetables, for instance, are reasonable. We stock up on food once we arrive at one of the several major grocery store chains in Marathon or Key West. We cook meals on a Coleman stove (open fires are not allowed in the state park) or on a charcoal grill. We also eat a lot of sandwiches and other cold meals during the day--when we're on the go.

Since we count on catching and/or "finding" one meal a day, things can get interesting by nightfall if we had designated dinner to be our self-provided meal for the day. After all, the lobster aren't always where they should be and the fish don't always cooperate, but we have always managed to prepare something from the day's adventures. In a pinch, we've dined on fresh conch, pounded into patties and fried, raw fish "cooked" (soaked for several hours) in key lime juice, and washed down with coconut milk. Leftover shrimp intended for bait are steamed in banana leaves or sautÄed with wild plantains and mangoes for side dishes, and we're not averse to cracking a bottle of cheap grapefruit wine we always stop to buy on the drive south at produce stands off the turnpike entrance in Wildwood.

If you tire of fishing, or have family members who'd rather do something else, the choices are many. There are many commercial scuba and snorkeling charters in the Lower Keys or you can take nature trips that allow you to explore the area's islands with an experienced guide/naturalist.

Alternate Activities

Dry-land activities abound, however, for Spring Breakers who want a break from water activities. Nearby Big Pine Key is the home of the tiny Key Deer, the only place in the world where the small sub-species of the Virginia whitetail can be found. Big Pine Key also hosts the Blue Hole, a rare, freshwater pond that is home to some huge alligators. South of Big Pine a dozen miles is Sugarloaf Key, where sightseeing pilot Dan Haggerty will show you the Keys from above, and point out sharks, rays, and shipwrecks. Prices for the short--but highly entertaining--flights start at under $20. While awaiting your plane, check out the famous Bat Tower just down the dirt road from the Sugarloaf Airstrip. The wooden tower was built to attract mosquito-eating bats in hopes that they'd rid the island of the pests. The bats haven't shown much interest, but tourists flock to the odd sight.

One of the best restaurants in the Keys is on Sugarloaf Key at the Sugarloaf Lodge, right on U.S. 1. There, you can dine while watching a dolphin show in a lagoon behind the restaurant.

A 45-minute drive down 35 miles of two-lane highway from Bahia Honda, Key West is a place like no other. It's also tough to fully experience on a fixed budget, but it can be done. The Conch Tour Train is an inexpensive way to see the island if you don't mind playing tourist for an hour or two, and walking tours are both fun and free. Shops and bars abound on Duval Street, Key West's main drag that reminds one more of the Gold Coast chaos you probably came to the Keys to avoid. If you really want a free, traditional Keys experience, wander down to the boat docks at the end of Duval Street at sundown. You won't be alone, as hundreds of tourists and locals alike gather to watch the sunset--and each other--at this nightly ritual. Street entertainers of all sorts will be on hand to occupy your attention until the sun and sea meet to present a grand finale that can be awesome.

For More Information

For a great informational packet about the Florida Keys, call 800-FLA-KEYS. For information about Bahia Honda State Park, write the park at Rt.1, Box 782, Big Pine Key, FL 33043, or call direct at 305-872-2353. Other campgrounds in the Lower Keys include Sunshine Key (305-872-2217), Big Pine Key Fishing Lodge (305-872-2351), Sea Horse Campground (305-872-2443), and Lazy Lakes Campground (305-745-10790). For a free camping guide to the entire Lower Keys, call 800-USA-ESCAPE.