Everywhere we looked...tailing bonefish!
No sooner had Ronnie Sawyer poled his small skiff into an inside bay on Munjack Cay than we saw dozens of tails breaking through the turquoise surface across several acres of flats. With virtually no ripple on the gin-clear water, each tail was as visible as a diver's flag.
"We'll have to be careful," advised Ronnie while surveying the scene with his deep green eyes. "These fish are in just a few inches of water and they'll be spooky."
The targets appeared to be large--between five and 10 pounds each--as they nosed the flat's sandy bottom picking up morsels and creating little puffs of mud while inching along as a low tide began an incoming cycle.
It didn't take long to confirm Ronnie's prediction about the skittishness of these fish when a tail of a nice-sized bone popped up about 25 feet off the Boston Whaler's bow.
Making what I thought was a near perfect cast with a light Daiwa spinning outfit, the fish turned 90-degrees and dashed off at what seemed to be the speed of light.
"(Expletive deleted)," I muttered. "I sure messed that one up!"
"Don't worry, there'll be more," said young Ronnie, who is following in the footsteps of his famous dad, Joe Sawyer, the island's premier guide for more than 40 years.
Within two minutes we were lining up on a pair of fish that were within 50 feet of us and closing fast.
I took another shot with a 1/8-ounce untipped Cotee Liv'Eye Action Jig, dropping the offering about 10 feet ahead of the approaching duo. As they neared the lure I gave it a little twitch by raising the rod tip and had a resounding strike.
Holding the rod as high as I could reach, I could only pray that the silvery demon would stop before stripping my reel of six-pound test line. It did, fortunately, and following 10 minutes of give-and-take combat, I was able to lead a nifty five-pounder to the side of the skiff where it could be gently released.
Ronnie continued poling across the calm flat and we both managed several more hook-ups on fish in the four- to six-pound range before the guide was able to entice the best fish of the afternoon to his offering consisting of a piece of shrimp on a plain 3/0 Eagle Claw hook.
Despite the fact that he has caught and released literally thousands of bonefish since he first started fishing more than 20 years ago, Ronnie still gets excited when a big 'un rips line from his reel.
For this one, he went over the side in near-knee deep water keeping his rod high and bowed as the fish peeled 200 feet of four-pound test monofilament against a drag set at about one-third of the line's breaking strength.
With the exception of a few mangrove "stick-ups," Ronnie had smooth sailing and, after three or four runs that diminished in distance with each succeeding outburst, was finally able to lead a tired trophy in for a couple of quick photographs and a release. We estimated that it weighed eight pounds, a good but not uncommon catch for these relatively undiscovered waters.
Munjack is just one of the places within a 10-minute run of Ronnie's home base, Bluff House, where he puts clients onto big bonefish. Other spots include the flats fronting New Plymouth, the island's picturesque village (population 500) that was originally settled by Loyalists 200 years ago; Rocky Bay, the White Sands area, and Coco Bay where beach strollers often see schools of tailing bones while enjoying the sunshine and scenery.
The bonefish, a member of the Albulidae family, is found in shallow tropical and subtropical waters throughout the world.
Often called "The Phantom of the Flats" and "The Gray Ghost," the silver-scaled bone will feed on crabs, shrimp, clams, sea worms, urchins ,and various mollusks while rooting on the bottom.
Shaped similar to a torpedo, the bonefish is extremely fast and quite powerful, especially after being hooked. When making its initial runs after feeling a barb, the powerhouse will peel line from a screaming reel at an awesome and alarming rate.
Most bonefish encountered by anglers will average between two and four pounds each. However, when scouting flats, a rodman is likely to see some "loners" that will tip the Toledos on the plus side of 10 pounds.
The largest bonefish on record is the 19-pounder taken in South African waters back in 1962 by Brian Batchelor. With one exception, all line-class records were established in either the Florida Keys or in the Bahamas. I was fortunate to be "Johnny-On-the-Spot" when Jim Orthwein of St. Louis set the IGFA saltwater fly rod record at Bimini in 1983, with a 15-pounder that was victimized by a streamer fly attached to a four-pound-test tippet.
Most fishermen go for bonefish with a spinning rod equipped with monofilament line testing out at between four and 12 pounds breaking strength. A few use baitcasting rigs, while others swear by fly rods.
Since anglers usually seek out and cast to individual fish, the exciting sport combines the best elements of hunting and fishing. Traditionally, people stalk bonefish from a shallow-draft skiff being poled across the flats, or while wading. A few will drop anchor and fish the bottom using such baits as conch, shrimp, or shellfish.
One time is about as good as another when planning a trip since bonefish in the Bahamas can be viewed nearshore or moving onto the flats year-round.
A bonefish isn't the only item listed on a Bahamas smorgasbord of delights. Off Green Turtle Cay, for instance, anglers connect with blue marlin, white marlin, sailfish, wahoo, barracuda, kings, bull dolphin, tuna, and other heavyweights well within sight of the small island that measures but two miles in width by four miles in length. On the lush, rocky reefs surrounding the island are grouper to 70 pounds, large snapper, and a wide variety of other bottom species that are guaranteed to keep an angler on his or her toes.
Frequently compared to television's "Fantasy Island," Green Turtle Cay in the Abacos Chain is a quiet, laid-back bit of tropical paradise described by Louisville's Paul Lockhart as "a place where the pages don't turn and the clock's don't tick."
There is 100 percent employment on the island, a zero crime rate, few cars, fewer roads and everyone is mellowed out and friendly. It's definitely out of the fast lanes of life and "R & R" is the rule. You can do as much...or as little...as you wish.
Divers are in their glory at this "well-kept secret location," as are visitors who want to sail, swim, play tennis, explore, snorkel, gather shells, browse in several quaint New Plymouth shops, or enjoy some of the finest gourmet dining in the world at Bluff House where a full-course candlelit dinner with imported wine is presented every evening. Lobster can be found in abundance during the season, and conch are around throughout the year.
Gourmet magazine rates Bluff House as "outstanding" and "a must experience," while Fisher's Annotated Travel Guide calls it "the best of the best." This is the place where former president Jimmy Carter, Kenny Rogers, Mel Tillis, James McArthur, and Jimmy Dean frequently visit when wanting privacy.
But, don't get the wrong idea. Because of its outstanding accommodations and moderate rates, Bluff House is also a destination for hundreds of discriminating travelers from throughout the world who return year after year to fish, play, and rediscover its charming combination of "veddy" British and native Bahamian hospitality.
In honesty, we must point out that Green Turtle Cay isn't for everybody. Those who enjoy crowds, timetables, traffic jams, locked doors, riotous night life, gambling, and ringing telephones won't like it and will be better served to visit other ports.
Getting to Green Turtle Cay is simple. It's but a 55-minute flight to Treasure Cay International Airport from West Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale and Miami via Aero Coach (1-800-432-5034), Piedmont (1-800-251-5720), or Eastern Express (1-800-327-8376). After clearing customs at Treasure Cay, take a cab ($3 per person) to the ferry dock and board a water taxi ($8 per person) that takes you directly to the Bluff House dock where you'll be met by manager Martin Havill or Lewis Dames with a tall, cool refreshing Tipsy Turtle, an attitude modifier that will get your stay off on the right foot.
For complete information and reservations, anglers may contact: Marva's Marketing Concepts, Box 1291, Dunedin, FL 34296, phone 813-733-4087, or call the Club direct by dialing 809-367-2786.
If your fantasy is a big bonefish or billfish, diving, exploring, sailing, or relaxing, Green Turtle Cay may well turn out to be your "island in the sun" where the fantasy begins when landing and continues until you leave for home.
Keep in mind, however, that Green Turtle Cay isn't the only place in the Bahamas that is loaded with bonefish. There are hundreds of alluring islands scattered across some 10,000 square miles in the Atlantic Ocean encompassing a fantastic menu of shallow-water angling opportunities.
For example, one of the oldest and best known areas for bonefish (and permit) is the Deepwater Cay Club on the east end of Grand Bahama Island that has access to many bonefish flats.
Andros, the largest island in the Bahamas, is a vast bonefish farm that, unfortunately is limited in its accommodations. Bimini, located 50 miles east of Miami, is better known for its offshore billfishing even though several bonefish records have been established there during the past couple of decades by guests staying at the Big Game Fishing Club, the Compleat Angler Hotel, or the Blue Water Resort.
Chub Cay, located south of Bimini, is another big-game fishing center that has excellent bonefish and permit action on its flats. Harbour Island anglers can enjoy a wide variety of fishing adventures, including some excellent bonefishing; while Exuma, where George Herman once landed and released 110 bones weighing between two and five pounds each in six hours, is home to hoards of "gray ghosts."
Other hotspots with potential record bonefish includes San Salvador, Long Island, the Acklins, Eleuthera, Mayaguana, Nassau, Stella Maris, and the Berry Islands.
Bonefish tournaments are annually held throughout the islands and those who enjoy fishing competitively can get dates and locations by writing the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, 255 Alhambra Circle, Suite 415, Coral Gables, FL 33134, or call toll-free by dialing 1-800-327-0787.
There certainly is no shortage of bones anywhere in the Bahamas and so long as anglers continue to release their catches, it should stay this way. In other words, 1996 can still be considered the "good old days."
Sighting, stalking, casting to, and fighting this great gamester remains one of the grandest thrills in all of fishdom.
Copyright (c) 1996 Herb Allen. All rights reserved.
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