"Working With What You Have"

Skin Tone Analysis

Colors That Work For You


By Andrea York
Licensed Cosmetologist

© 1995 Andrea York and Transgender Forum


There are two types of skin color undertones; yellow and blue. Some people say warm and cool, others refer to this as Fall and Winter. Whatever you call it you will more than likely fall into one of these categories. Every now and than I meet someone who is a true mixture and can wear colors in both families. But the message I'd like to get across today is for you to understand how to determine which group you are in and then for you to work on using your correct colors when applying make-up and when purchasing clothes. Just as a side note, since black and white are truly neutral colors, most people will usually look good in both or one or the other.

First let's discuss color theory. Once you understand how colors work it will be much easier for you to choose appropriate ones for yourself. The most flattering look is when you have colors that are in accordance with your skin tone. When like colors are together they blend into each other. When you put opposite colors next to each other they each fight for their own territory and each color looks more vivid.

All this means is, if you have an olive complexion you have yellow undertones. If you wear colors that have yellow in them (browns,corals,green,golds) your skin tone will look less yellow because all of the colors will be blending together. Now, some people like to go for opposites for shock value, contrasting colors. That's fine, but I don't think it's flattering. Another example: If you have blue undertones, you will look good in raspberries, pinks, violets, roses, plums. If you wore orange you'd look really, really pale, sickly. Not the look you're going for unless you're a punk rocker!

OK, with that information in mind, let's move on to how you analyze your skin. The best way to do this is to stand by a window that has good natural light coming in. Make sure your face is totally clean and that you are not wearing a shirt. Make two groups of colors from scarves, clothes, shirts etc. One with all the warm colors, one with all the cool colors. Hold the swatches up to your face and basically after a while you should get an idea of what makes you look the best.

Does your face come alive,sparkle with a certain color? Does it look pale,gray, sallow,sickly and just blah with a particular color. It's usually terrific if you can drag a friend over to help you with this, it's always nice to have a second opinion.Once you have an idea of the colors you look best in you're on your way

As I've been saying for years, you only need to be concerned with lip and blush color as far as coordinating makeup to skin color. Eye color is another whole issue. Just make sure that your blush and lip color coincide with your skin tone. Also, forget about your hair color. That has nothing to do with your skin tone.

You must realize that all colors have different hues, different tones, different shades. So, when someone says they can't wear reds that is not an accurate statement. Maybe they can't wear blue reds. They make look stunning in a coral red. So check out the blue and yellow tones of a color before saying you can't wear a specific shade. Look, I don't want you to get nervous and think you have to be a color specialist to figure this out. The bottom line is, if you look good in a color, than the color is for you. You should wear the color, the color should not wear you! Coco Chanel, always said, “If you walk into a room and someone tells you that you have a beautiful dress, that is not a compliment. They should say YOU look beautiful!” The same applies to make-up.

As far as eye color is concerned.. your eye color should determine the color shadows you wear. Let me just say that ALL eyes look best in neutral shades. It makes eyes look the biggest But if you like a little color here is a chart that will give you some guidelines. Oh, and ladies, remember, NEVER match the shadow to your eye color.! That's the worst thing you can do to your eyes. It makes them appear smaller and overwhelmed. Also, please note that for the most part I am suggesting opposite colors for your eyes so that your own natural eye color appears brighter and more pronounced. Remember, we are trying to showcase your eyes not your eyeshadow

Eye Colors

BLUE EYES...charcoals, pinks, lavenders
GREEN EYES... rose brown, cantaloupe, peach, gray,
HAZEL EYES...prunes,blaze,cocoa,rose,dark violet
BROWN EYES. rose, ginger ,acorn, ivory

Cheeks and Lips


YELLOW TONES...corals, browns, yellow reds, russet, toffee, peach
BLUE TONES...pinks, rose, blue reds, blue browns, blue grays
Please remember that LESS IS MORE. When working with colors apply them very sparingly. You can always add more. You don't want to look like a painted bird. You just want to look beautiful and subtle.

I realize that I just gave you a tremendous amount of information. }have fun with it. Learn by experimenting. The more you put in to it, the better knowledge you will have. If you find anything confusing, always feel free to email me with questions. Also, keep in mind that Femme Cosmetics sends you a personalized color chart once you know what your coloring is This way you have the chance to actually put the true next to your skin before deciding to purchase it. Remember folks, “Looking Good Can Be Learned.” Until next time, enjoy!


For further information of makeup techniques read Andrea's previous columns:

    "Skin Skin Skin."
    Facial Contouring-Part One: Face Shape & Highlighting
    Facial Contouring-Part One: Dark Contouring
    Foundation and Camouflage

Andrea York is a well-known Licensed Cosmetologist and Make-Up Artist in New York City. She is highly respected, and has made both men and women look superb for over twelve years. Andrea launched her own cosmetics line in 1986, after finding that high quality, reasonably priced products were scarce. She has helped many transgender clients achieve the exact look which they had sought but found unattainable without her expertise.


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