"Working With What You Have"

Foundation and Camouflage

By Andrea York
Licensed Cosmetologist
© 1995 Andrea York and Transgender Forum

After taking care of your skin, finding the right foundation and applying it correctly is probably the most important step in your grooming regimen.

The skin is like an artist's canvas. A beautiful painting wouldn't look too good if it was painted on dirty, blotchy canvas. But, if the canvas is smooth and clean, a painter has the chance of creating a masterpiece. So, I must tell you again, PLEASE BE SURE TO TAKE GOOD CARE OF YOUR SKIN!!

The first step (before you can even think of a foundation) is to get a clean, close shave. To do that you need to soften your facial hairs so that the razor can gently lift the away. If they are pulled out without the proper softening you may get irritated or find yourself getting those unsightly red bumps. Those are just ingrown hairs.

Femme has a product called Herbal Cleanser that softens and preps your skin for a shave. You may find others that work as well. NO matter what you use, make sure your skin is very soft and supple before touching it with a razor.

After the shave it's important to close up the pores with a toner. Depending on your skin type you can choose the appropriate one for you. After applying toner you should splash your face with water and immediately follow with the appropriate moisturizer. Now, very important, apply your foundation when your skin is still damp. This is a secret that really makes a difference. When you apply this way, your foundation glides on very smoothly and evenly and you don't set a masky look. Make sure to blend in well along the jaw line so you don't end up with a demarcation line (how I detest those lines!)

Now, let's discuss how to choose a foundation First, you must go to a window and look at your skin in daylight The best place to test a foundation is along your jawline You want the foundation to match as closely as possible to your natural skin color. Not darker, not lighter. When it blends in well with your neck and face color, you have found the right match.

Before applying foundation, you may find areas on your face that need to be camouflaged. We at Femme have a product called Model's Cover-up Stick that works very well. Whatever you choose to use make sure it is close to your natural color or Slightly lighter Apply a small amount to the area that needs covering(i.e.: beard, under eyes, sides of nostrils, blemishes)and with soft patting strokes blend into the skin. Make sure to totally blend into the area you are covering (not the whole face!). After that is applied to your satisfaction, lightly dust that area with translucent powder. You are now ready to apply your foundation.

When applying foundation, remember, less is more. If you are using a liquid base, make sure your skin Is slightly damp. Add a small amount to wet fingertips. Gently blend your foundation around your nose, cheeks, forehead, chin and eye area. If you feel that you need more coverage,lightly dust with powder. Brush off excess and apply foundation again.

If you are using a creme or dual active foundation, you need to use a sponge. The dual active base should also be applied to damp sin, the creme to dry skin. Always start out with a little and add more to the areas that you think need extra coverage. Not the whole face, otherwise you will look like you are wearing a mask. The key to Looking Good is to look like you ARE NOT wearing any make-up.

I gave you an awful lot of information in this installment and some of it is a little tricky to get right. The best advice I can give you is to keep practicing. You will eventually get your desired look if you follow the above steps.

Let me know if you have any questions, I will do my best to answer them! Until next time...

Andrea

For further information of makeup techniques read Andrea's previous columns: