We (my boyfriend and I) are going to Iran next month. We will fly from France to Teheran, and I would like a few advices from those who have travelled in Iran recently. What places would you suggest ? Teheran, Ispahan, Yazd, Mashad, Shiraz, the Caspian Coast (???), countryside ? Is it best to travel by train or by bus (safe ? cheap ?).
One precise question : how do we go to central Teheran from the airport without taking a taxi AND without getting to the opposite place we wanted to go to ?! Another question : the LP Middle East guide says the cheap hotels in Teheran are located in a non safe neighborhood : is that true ? Where are the best (cheap and safe) hotels ?
After Iran, we will go to Turkmenistan, Ouzbekistan and Kirghizistan. Did anyone of you went from Iran to Turkmenistan (by bus, by train ? any troubles ?).
Any other advices for a cheap and pleasant everyday life as a tourist in Iran ?
Thank you !!!
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I don't know what you're asking, really. Perhaps you could
buy the Iran LP (1998) rather than the Middle East LP. It is
clearly stated that there are very few trains and they are
all slow, while buses are fine and planes are cheap. Taxis
from the airport are very cheap, there is no reason not to
take one. (I assume you must have some money since you
are taking a plane to Iran rather than buses.) The cheap
hotel area of Tehran is safe but seedy and not very
pleasant. For hotels outside ths area, please consult the LP
Iran guide. (Also see the recent web update for this guide,
you can get to it from LP's home page.)
Great place to travel. I was there in late 1998 and found
it one of the safest places that I have ever travelled. The
people are hospitable, generous and unusually honest.
Planes are incredibly cheap and to be recommended because
the distances to be covered are so great. I bought tickets
from Yazd to Tehran and from Tehran to Tabriz for less than
$US25 for the two flights. Add Bam to your list of places
to visit. The old mud city there is outstanding. Stay at
Ali Amiri's guesthouse there. Ali is very helpful to
Western tourists. I stayed in a hotel in Tehran whose name
escapes me but it has a good cafe attached that is
supposed to be the haunt of the local intelligencia and the
secret police. It is mentioned in the LP guidebook. It was
a mid-range hotel but still cost only $12 for a room with en
suite. Don't miss the jewellery museum in Tehran.
I spent quite some time in Iran and deeply enjoyed it. It
was few years ago I can't give you updated suggestions as
far as accomodation is concerned but here are few tips
regarding places to visit.
My favourite city in Iran is Ispahan, followed by Mashad.
Shiraz is a very pleasant city, don't miss Persepolis. You
can hire a taxi in Shiraz that will bring you there. As
Jane said Bam is not to miss. Kerman, the base for the trip
to Bam, is also a fine place where to spend a day or so;
don't miss the coppersmith bazar.
If you have to count the days I would avoid to loose time
with Tabriz and rather go for the western part of the
caspian (Rasht, Bandar Anzali and up to Iranian Azerbaijan
(I don't know if there are travel restrictions). Masouleh
as well is a place definitely worth a visit.
The list could go on and on but I believe you won't have
time to do everything so these are just the highlights.
Flying is (was) very cheap. There is no point in avoiding
to take a taxi from the airport to the city. Just avoid the
touts and the unauthorized taxi.
I spent quite some time in Iran and deeply enjoyed it. It
was few years ago I can't give you updated suggestions as
far as accomodation is concerned but here are few tips
regarding places to visit.
My favourite city in Iran is Ispahan, followed by Mashad.
Shiraz is a very pleasant city, don't miss Persepolis. You
can hire a taxi in Shiraz that will bring you there. As
Jane said Bam is not to miss. Kerman, the base for the trip
to Bam, is also a fine place where to spend a day or so;
don't miss the coppersmith bazar.
If you have to count the days I would avoid to loose time
with Tabriz and rather go for the western part of the
caspian (Rasht, Bandar Anzali and up to Iranian Azerbaijan
(I don't know if there are travel restrictions). Masouleh
as well is a place definitely worth a visit.
The list could go on and on but I believe you won't have
time to do everything so these are just the highlights.
Flying is (was) very cheap. There is no point in avoiding
to take a taxi from the airport to the city. Just avoid the
touts and the unauthorized taxi.
Alpha, Jane and Connolly, thanx for all the compliments!
I am really glad you found my homeland such a country as
you explain in your postings.
Claire, why not take a taxi? just bear in mind as soon as
you leave the Airport terminal, several taxi drivers will
rush to you. The very first ones offer far too high prices,
bargain on that. Authorized Airport taxis charge more than
you could find with unauthorized ones if you are good at
bargains!
Cheap hotels? It depends on what you mean by cheap. You
should come to a compromise between the quality and price
and it also depends in which destrict.
You can go to Turkmenistan overland or by train to Mashad
and off to Ashgabat by bus or fly from Tehran to Ashgabat
or from Tehran to Mashad and again to Ashgabat ( I did the
last, last year ) much cheaper than a direct flight.
For more details on any of these, drop me an e-mail.
I travelled to Iran last year and stayed in Tehran and in
Isfahan. Of the two I preferred Isfahan, mind you I had
serious difficulties finding restaurants there in the town
centre...one walk found two restaurants max. - otherwise you
can have a meal in the restaurants of more expensive
hotels, which still aren't that expensive.
The trip from the airport is no problem at all,
providing you make a minor effort to communicate in Farsi to
the taxi driver...it is the hubbub at the airport and the
general confusion of trying to avoid upsetting various
people who reckon you promised them you would go with them
in their taxi which can be a hassle...if you have a little
patience, then try to figure out who's seems to have the
best deal and just agree to go with him - don't worry about
anyone else who might follow you even to his colleague's
taxi to try and salvage what is obviously a lost fare...they
only have an effect on gullible tourists who cannot make
their mind up.
I agree with what I have read so far.
Definitely Isfahan, it is so beautiful with the river running through it and the tree-lined main street and the huge square with the gorgeous mosque. We spent a day at a family's home there; the people are so hospitable.
Definitely Bam (the guest house was great - we could take our head scarves off!). He supplies dinner at ridiculously low prices.
Shiraz was also good (the Iranian "city of sin"). Persepolis is the main attrraction, but also go to the tea house at Hafez's tomb.
Yazd bored me, but my husband liked it.
We both found Tabriz boring.
Tehran was not that great, but I've heard good reports about it from people who stayed there a LONG time. Not worth it on a short trip.
Kerman was good for a day on the way to Bam, but accommodation was either cheap and nasty or expensive. We were getting a bit sick of cockroaches by this stage, so we bargained at the main place recommended in the LP.
Speaking of the LP, the latest guide by Paul Greenway leaves a bit to be desired. I don't think he really liked Iran! The maps are not too good and the choice of restaurants is a bit limited because Paul seems to love hamburgers and pizza. Still, they do make a nice change from kebabs ....