Hi,
The following remarks are additions/corrections to the LP
Iran, second edition. They are the result of a three weeks
trip through Iran in April/May. In general, I found Iran
fascinating, its people truly friendly and hospitable.
Prices mentioned are prices as quoted by hotels,
restaurants, and taxis. At that time, open market rates were
about 8000 Rial for one US$. Iran Daily publishes open
market rates every day (May 18: 8230 Rial for one dollar).
Kashan:
There is a guesthouse called "mosaferkhunΘ Gulestan" located
at Motahhari Square, south-eastern side of the square, not
signed in English, single 15,000 Rial, shared toilets.
Within 100-200 meters of Khan-Θ Borujerdi, there are several
other old houses, such as Khan-Θ Abassian and Khan-Θ
Tabatabai. Both houses are more beautiful and larger than
BorujerdiÆs. Ask the locals for directions.
Taxi to Abyaneh: about 50,000 Rial.
NaÆin:
Guesthouse Eslami Inn is located near a square (which was
called Emam Khomeini Square û if memory serves correctly),
signed in English, single 15,000 Rial, shared toilets. They
took me to the police station first, probably to get
permission to stay there (??).
There is a very good, cheap restaurant at the square,
restaurant Kavir.
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1: Meidan-Θ Emam Khomeini (??)
2: Restaurant Kavir
3: Eslami Inn
The mosque was disappointing, the Ethnological Museum
opposite the mosque was fun thanks to the tour given by the
manager. Both cost 5000 Rial each.
According to the museum manager, the two hotels mentioned in
the LP are one and the same. The NaÆin Hotel (or Jahangardi
Inn) wanted 280,000 Rial for one night.
Yazd:
Taxi to Chak Chak: 50,000 Rial. Permission of the
authorities at the Ateshkade in Yazd is not needed.
Everybody goes to the Tower of Silence (dakhmeh) that is
closest to Yazd. Actually, there are two dakhmehs at that
site. About 15-20 km from Yazd, there is another one. Near
this dakhmeh, you find some buildings which were used in
Zoroastrian ceremonies. The small holes in these buildings
were said to be caused by army exercises with grenades.
About 80-100 km south-west of Yazd, there is a place called
Shurok. It has an old castle (including fragments of
pottery), and some natural wells. Because of calcium
deposit, the wells created small, white hills. There are
about 20-30 of these hills, each 4-7 meters high. To me,
these creations of nature were very unusual.
There are (at least) two places where you can use the
Internet in Yazd. The Aria Hotel mentioned a place east of
the Ateshkade, at an alley along the Doktor Chamran St.
Expect to pay about 24,000 Rial for an hour. I used another
one, at a company (?) at Shahid Rajai Street. The address
was given to me by a man named Ali, who works for an
engineering shop between the Aria Hotel and Markar Square.
Kerman:
The Akhavan Hotel asked US$20 for a single. They mainly
serve tour groups, and were quite full at the time. Very
nice rooms, but their restaurant served lousy food, and was
too expensive. Despite that, I wanted to stay there again
after one night in Bam. When I entered the Akhavan Hotel
with my backpack, the guy at the reception laughed
contemptuously at my request for a room. When I said I was
willing to pay US$20, he turned 180 degrees. Bastard. Their
restaurant served exactly the same food as two days before.
Do they only have two meals, since tour groups stay only for
two nights?
Bam:
There are more buses going to Kerman than the owner of Ali
AmiriÆs Legal Guest House wants you to know. Several buses
go in the evening so you could easily make a day trip from
Kerman. Just ask at the bus terminals. Ali Amiri is building
a new guesthouse.
The Iran Asseman Office is now located in a new shopping
centre between the terminal of Bus Cooperative No. 7 and the
Emam Khomeini Square. They did not speak English, had no
time tables, and were not computerised.
Some Iranians told me about an ancient city near Zabol which
was comparable with or perhaps even better than Bam. Near
Zabol, there are apparently three ancient ruins. The first
is a prehistoric city called Shahr-e Sukhteh. The second is
a city from the 5-6th century BC called Dahaneh-e Gholaman
that was possibly Ktesias, the capital of Drangiana.
Finally, there is Kuh-e Khaje with its Parthian ruins. I do
not know which one they meant, but the first two are not in
the Lonely Planet.
Shiraz:
Persepolis seems to be a major disappointment for everyone.
The Greek did a very good job in destroying the palaces, and
the Iranians made the mistake to build a new museum between
the ancient ruins.
The Iran Air office is now at the corner of Faghihi Street
and Zand Boulevard.
Shush:
Flight Shiraz-Ahvaz: 77,500 Rial.
Apadana Hotel: 30,000 Rial for a good room with bathroom.
The restaurant was very good and cheap. Hotel and restaurant
were probably best value for money I had in Iran.
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1: Entrance to the old city
2: Meidan ya Zahara
3: Apadana Hotel & Restaurant
If youÆve ever wanted to be the only tourist at a site which
is on the UNESCO world heritage list, then you should go to
Chogha Zambil and watch the sunset from the top of the
ziqqurat. Amazing.
Esfahan:
Flight Ahvaz-Esfahan: 70,000 Rial.
Internet in Esfahan: at the Emam Khomeini Square, you are
very likely to be approached by Mr. Iraj Riahi from Delta
Service. He offers Internet usage at 30,000 Rial per hour on
a Unix machine, only text, no graphics. But if his nephew is
not in, you cannot use the computer.
Ghazvin:
The 21.30 bus from Esfahan to Ghazvin was a bad idea; I
arrived at 4.00, the Hotel Iran did not open, and I had to
stay in Hotel Marmar, the new upmarket hotel in town,
Taleghani Street, about 300 meters east of Vali-ye Asr
Square. They charged US$20, excl. service (17%) and
breakfast, and tried to give me the suite, at 4.45 am.
You do not need a 4WD or sturdy car to go to the castle of
the Assassins; any taxi will take you. The scenery on the
way to Gazor Khan was the best I had seen in Iran.
Tehran:
The National Museum of Iran (tel. 6702061) is closed on
Mondays, not Tuesdays.
Mashhad:
The best access to the Shrine complex is at Andarzgu Street.
The International Relations Office provides information,
shows videos about the complex, and guides you around.
Unfortunately, access to non-Muslims seems to be restricted
to the south-western / southern parts of the complex,
including the museums.
Hotel Djavaheri provides a single with bathroom for 65,000
Rial including breakfast and lunch.
Enjoy Iran,
Arian.
Maps are mixed up by the browser. Sorry for that