I see in thread-posts that some people did not see tigers
in Ranthambhore over 3 safaries. I hope people will not be
scared away by this because we saw a big tiger within 15
minutes of entering on our canter. I will give more
information on what we encountered there on a thread-
posting inside this topic if you are interested.
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I didn't want to make to big a topic entry so I continued
in here.
We got off the train on a HOT May day at Sawai Madhopur
and walked across to the registration office for the park
to avoid rip-off rate rickshaws. By the time we discussed
whether to go set up at our hotel or go straight in on a
safari they had told us that we had missed the chance to
get in that afternoon even though a jeep had left with just
one couple in it. I think they paid for the whole jeep and
did not invite us along. (Their choice I guess) Anyway,
there was confusion over when the next jeep would be open
either in the am or pm the next day. It took me a while to
realize this was a baksheesh come-on. We were talking to
a 'guide' who would take some rupees from us to see that
seats would be open in a jeep the next day. I did not bite
and told him that that would be deducted from the jeep cost
with a receipt before I would hand over any cash. Low and
behold, suddenly a canter became available for a 'charter'
for some Indian people and they said we could join them. So
we did.
When we got to the park entrance the driver announced the
park fee to be 100 rupees instead of the 25 listed in the
L.P.. When I protested he was persistent and claimed it
was "a new park fee"..."if you like you can get out
here". O.K. The canter fee was similarly jacked-up.
I asked if the others were paying the same as us and they
said "of course". When I heard wisperings coming from the
locals that we were being ripped-off and should report them
to the tourist board, my suspicions were confirmed. The
problem with Ranthambhore is, if you call their bluff and
walk you are 5 miles from your hotel in desert heat, in
tiger country, alone with scammers milling about. We paid.
I figured it was charity for tiger preservation - but
really didn't have a choice.
The hotel is similarly distant from everything and there
are scant facilities in the area. So we found the rates
about 30% higher than the 'Lonely Planet' quote. My friend
is not a rough traveler like me, so dragging ourselves back
out into the parching heat and walking a mile was not an
option. We paid. I must admit the hilltop hotel was well
situated and architecturally appealing.
After getting into the ancient maharaja's hunting
preserve with a fort majestically perched on an escarpment
we realized what an exotic place this was. I was somewhat
disillusioned to see that the vegetation is semi-arid
African savannah-type trees with dense thicket in places
and grass understories. Anyway, the place is teeming with
large sambar, spotted deer and various tropical herbivores.
The driver stopped near a gully and about 3 minutes later a
bigger-than-I-had-expected tiger came strutting down toward
the dirt track giving the canter no heed whatsoever. It
scent marked the bushes and trunks by raising its tail and
giving a good spray. Its growl was much deeper and more
unfeline than I had expected. It lingered about 3 or 4
minutes and then walked down a road that the canter was not
allowed on. My friend got good video the whole time.
I suspect that maybe the tigers are baited from the
canters in off-hours because it would have no reason to
walk towards a growling engine while they are being hunted
by humans in this day and age. Anyhow, I would not consider
Ranthambhore tigerless just yet, but you are going to have
to persevere with the locals and its location to see them.
I would say, if you do see one, just get out and on to your
next destination for the locals are somewhat avaricious.
Maybe there is a more user-friendly park elsewhere. I guess
we have to accept that these are the people responsible for
preserving the tiger, whether we like it or not, and we
have to make it rewarding for them to do so. Oh yeah, I
forgot to mention that we saw a fat black cobra slithering
into the weeds just inside the park.
It was a HOT october day. Slipped up. May was another trip.
Too much midday Indian sun I guess. Maybe that is what
happened to the "Char-er" to make him as mental as he is!