I fly into and out of Cancun (in middle of june) but plan
to get the hell out of there. My mission is to chill on
the beach and dive and get some rays but also experience
Mexico. Thinking of beaching it on Playa de Carmen,
Cozomel or Isla Mujeres - good idea? Which is the best?
don't want to go mad partying.
As for seeing Mexico (& surroundings) - I plan on taking an
overnight bus to Palenque and from there head to Tikal via
frontera Corozal & Bethal (as I have been told this is a
great way to do it - the boat ride being a highlight?!).
And I guess from there I will need to head back up to
Cancun.
Seem like a good trip? Anyone got any hints and tips? Not
to be missed experiences? Recommendations on where to
stay? If I arrive in Palenque at 8am, should I get up to
the ruins that day and head off the next seeing as I have a
tight schedule or can I enjoy a day there and do the sights
the next day?
Thanks.
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I did this trip about one year ago from palenque onward
There's more than one overland/river route to but this one is the simplest & can either be
done individually or via one of the many tour operators in Palenque. The tour operators
will charge about $35. But done by oneself the trip can be made for $15 to $20..
There's a number of collectivo stations in Palenque but only one that makes the
6AM trip to Frontera Corozal. Forty pesos will get you the 3 hour ride to the river & the
migracion office for a freebie exit stamp. There you can arrange to catch a boat for
Bethel. There are a number of boats from which to choose & bargaining is the name of
the game. Some of the boats are chartered to the above tour operators but may have
empty seats they will readily sell. I got together with 8 other travelers & rented a boat for
400 pesos for the 45 minute canoe ride.
In Bethel you will pay another $5 US to migracion & 40 Quetzales for the 5 hour
bus ride to Santa Elena.
Blaise4@aol.com
TIKAL TO RIO DULCE & ON TO LIVINGSTON
Fuente del Norte is the bus line serving Rio Dulce from this region & it's located
in the center of Santa Elena. The fare is 50 Quetzals & it's best to board the aging
greyhound early as it fills to standing room only before departing. The road is dirt & full
of bonejarring ruts all the way to San Luis some four hours away.
There the bus thins out & then takes on a more international flair of riders at the
Poptun ruins. The ride hereon is fairly smooth & the scenery is enjoyable; interrupted
only by a 10 minute military (get off the bus) check an hour outside of Rio Dulce
There's a few budget places to stay in Rio Dulce with prices ranging around 20Q
for a room without bath, & 50Q for one with. The best bet though is found at the Hotel
Backpackers which necessitates a cross over the bridge, & a 300 meter walk underneath
the bridge on the west side to the river's edge...Or...for a few Quetzals you can catch a
couple minute water taxi next to the Hollymar bar & cybercafe, The Hollymar is the "in"
place. It was shut down briefly for some marijuana infractions recently, but was back to
business as usual in no time.
Backpackers is operated by the Casa Guatemala home for abandoned
malnourished & orphaned children. All of their profits go directly to support their
children's home on the Rio Dulce. It's situated right on the water's edge with a beautiful
view of the Rio Dulce, & its spacious deck is a great place to trade travel tales, read, or
simply unwind while quenching your thirst with a less than a buck rum & coke.
The price for a dormitory room is 25Q...space for a hammock 15, the hammock
another 10. I paid 50 Q for a room with a bath situated over the water & fell asleep
listening to its gentle lapping at the underpinning pillars. The entire place is kept
spotless by the older charges from Casa Guatemala who do the daily housekeeping.
Casa Guatemala also provides free board & room for volunteers who pledge to a
three month tour of duty at the orphanage. All the volunteers I talked to loved their time
spent there & the chance to help the children. Increasing their Spanish fluency was an
added benefit.
Backpackers makes it easy to connect with others wanting to join up & cut costs
for different adventures. I got together with 14 travelers, via the free use of Backpackers'
VHF & others staying there at the hotel. Together we put together our own private tour
of the Rio Dulce incorporating it into a trip to Livingston on the Carribean.
The 840 Q trip took 4 hours as our 14 person party (party is the right term) from
9 countries directed the pilot along the way. The lush scenery was magnificent...staying
the same yet changing. Dotting the landscape at first were modern homes & luxury
yachts, intermingled with the more modest native dwellings & paddle powered water
craft. Then civilization gave way completely to the jungle & our only visible
companions were the fowl hovering above & those nestling in the trees that hugged the
shore.
We made a food stop, & another at some hot springs shortly after for a refreshing
dip in its heated waters. Our bodies were now full, limp & ready for the laid back reggae
town of Livingston.
Email: casaguatemal@guate.net
fax : 502-331-9408
VHF : channel 68
$1 U.S. = 6 Quetzals
Of all the ruins I have been to in Mexico (including Chichen
Itza, Uxmal, Tulum and Coba) -- I found Palenque the most
mystical. The ruins are set in lush forest at the base of
the mountains -- with trails leading to some wonderful
pools/waterfalls (ask for directions to the Queen's bath).
The best place to stay is the Mayabell campground (they have
rooms there -- very inexpensive -- and a decent little
cafe). From the Mayabell you can walk to the ruins.
Do check out Tulum if you go as far south as Playa del
Carmen (it's a bit further south) -- it is quite beautiful,
even if it is surrounded by an ever-expanded souvenir
fleamarket. There is a beachside bungalow hotel near Tulum
that I have heard good things about (and drove by) -- I
think the name is Ana y Carlos -- or something like that. I
am pretty sure it is mentioned in the LP guidebook. Try to
get to Tulum very early a.m. to avoid the tourist swarms.
I enjoyed Playa del Carmen - I spent just one night there
after a trip to Coba. It was a bit touristy -- but, beat
the heck out of staying in Cancun (my flight was in and out
of Cancun -- and I personally find Cancun more American and
plastic than most US cities).
I don't know the best departure point for a bus to Palenque
from the Yucatan.
I also flew to Cancun at the end of March and did not put a
foot in Cancun...We spend two weeks in the Yucatan and
wanted to make it to Palenque...but we found Tulum and
stayed in Paradise for a whole week...At least we have an
excuse to go back to Mexico!
Ana y Jose cabanas are beautiful but quite expensive if you
are on a budget...Don Armando's and the cabanas near the
ruins are quite cheap and there is a great atmosphere.The
only problem is that every single day they open a waiting
list at 7.00am and although you have a chance to get in if
you get there first thing in the morning you can forget it
if you get there in the afternoon...A bit further down the
coast there are more cabanas and the further down you go
they seem a bit pricier and a bit more "civilised". We
stayes in Don Armandos and went scuba-diving by the
reef..you can swim to the reef very easily and you can rent
all the equipment from the Santa Fe cabanas..they organise
diving trips and also diving in cenotes. Take plenty of
travellers cheques or cash with you because south of Playa
there is no way to get near a cash machine or have your
credit card accepted!
If you are in Tulum you may want to visit the Sian Ka'an
biosphere reserve..it is a bit pricey but you get a whole
day travelling across mangroves and unspoilt vegetation and
it does really make you aware of the beauty of the area.
The trip includes lunch and drinks and we managed to see a
crocodile and a little Mayan temple with its resident snake
coile by the entrance...then you just float down the canal
back to the boats for a brilliant end to the day.
You may also want to visit Valladolid, near Cancun and on
the way to Chichen Itza..it is a small and beautiful town
and more Mexican than the tourist towns around Cancun.
Merida was not that great..although the Puuc route is quite
interesting..but probably you won't have much time to go
there.
Chichen Itza was great and Uxmal and Coba are worth visiting
too...Tulum is just brilliant because of its location
overlooking the Caribbean sea...
We had a brilliant time and I am sure you will too. Hope
you enjoy Palenque..hopefully we'll go there soon as lots of
travellers we met in Tulum had been there and highly
reccommended it. Buen viaje!