Monster Media 1993 #2

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These are direct logs from the Zymergy Echo, to disk. The names, comments, etc are still on them. In fact, nothing has been added or removed, no artificial flavours, artificial colours, fillers or preservitives were added to these messages to make them less than they really were, and are. One thing, I stopped doing this for 8 months so there is a BIT of a gap. Area Zymurgy, Msg#94, 09-10-92 07:21:48 From: Alan Stauch To: Denis Dubuc Subject: Re: Heineken Beer Here is a simple, yet very close recipe to Heineken Dark Beer. Ingredients: One (1) Arkell Kellar Premium Lager 1.8 kg 1 oz Hallertauer hops 250 grms of roasted barley 1 kg dry malt extract 1) Crack the husks of the grains and place same in cheese cloth and knot. 2) Place in 3 litres of boiling water and steep for 30 mins. 3) Add the Arkell lager, the dry malt, and 1/2 oz of hops. 4) Boil for one (1) hour. 5) Put the wort into primary fermenter filled to the 5 gallon mark. 6) Add the remaining 1/2 oz of hops and pitch the yeast. Proceed as usual. The only problem with this recipe is you might get a chill haze with the beer. I don't use Irish Moss but some say to add 1/2 tsp of Irish Moss to the boil 15 minutes prior to adding the wort to the primary pail. Enjoy! --- msgedsq 2.0.5 * Origin: PRO COP "Mie spel chekher iz awn the phritz" (1:221/178) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 925/60 973/1 980/2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#74, 14-10-92 21:35:20 From: Rick Garvin To: Mark Engebretson Subject: boil or not to boil In response to your request for a Russian Imperial Stout recipe I submit a recipe that has done well for me (3 ribbons): 9 lbs Extra Dark Dry Malt Extract 3 lbs honey 1/2 lb black patent malt (well crushed) 2 lbs #120 Crystal 40 HBU bittering hops 3 oz aroma hops 3 oz dry hop Use whatever yeast you like, and use a lot! This should be fermented in the 65-72 F range as high gravity worts tend to produce a lot of phenol at warm temps. The great amount of hops are neede because of the high gravity. Oh, and steap the black malt in one gallon water, bring to a boil (yes, boil... black malt has so little husk that boiling is no problem) strain and go as for regular brews... Cheers Rick --- Maximus/2 2.01wb * Origin: No Tarmac Brewing (1:109/131) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 925/60 973/1 980/2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#96, 16-10-92 10:48:00 From: Michelangelo Jones To: Jerry Kassebaum Subject: Re:Pumpkin Beer??? JK> Anyone have a good, tested recipe for pumpkin beer? About all JK> Papazian has is "Used boiled pumpkin. Spices, too, if you'd like." JK> How long do I boil how much pumpkin? Other specifics, too, please. JK> Thanks! Disclaimer: I've never made pumpkin beer, but I've improvised with excellent results on several batches. 1. For my tastes, I'd think a pumpkin beer would be best as a dark ale.. some dark malt, but because of the pumpkin not as much hops... perhaps 3/4 Oz. Goldings flavor, 1/3 oz. Saaz aroma. With a truly dark malt that won't seem very hoppy. 2. Baked, not boiled, pumpkin would give stronger results in the flavor. After baking, take ~1C. of pumpkin out of the skin and put in a muslin or cheesecloth bag. Do not mash, but chop into 3/4" cubes. (To bake pumpkin, cut in half and scrape flesh remove seeds and other internals. Place on cookie sheet or aluminum foil, bowl-style, inside up, in 350 deg. oven until fork penetrates easily (varies a lot by pumpkin size and flesh thickness). Cook a bit less than this for beer purposes but leave the rest in to make pie out of or whatever.) 3. After boil, add pumpkin bag, 1T. ground cinnamon, 1t. ground nutmeg, fresh if possible. More spice to taste. Allow to cool. 4. Before diluting & pitching yeast, remove pumpkin bag. OK, so this isn't the tested recipe you asked for. But you should have good results; I'm enjoying it in my mind already. I think after my next batch of Ain't Misbehaving I'll try this one myself. Mike --- * Origin: Beer beer beer beer beer beer. A six-pack... (1:260/244.0) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 925/60 973/1 980/2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#99, 16-10-92 12:01:02 From: Steve Yelvington To: Jerry King Subject: Beer, Dark, German Style Here's a simple recipe for a moderately dark English-style ale. 3.3 lb (1 can) John Bull amber malt extract 3 lb Munton and Fison dark dry malt extract (powder) 2 oz Kent Goldings hops 1 pk Edme ale yeast 3/4 cup corn sugar Boil a couple of gallons of water. Remove from heat, add malt. Return to heat and boil 30 minutes. Add half the hops. Boil another 15 minutes and add the rest of the hops. Boil another 15 minutes, then cool the wort, pour it into your fermenter, add cold water to bring the total volume to 5 gallons, and pitch the yeast when it's at room temp. Ferment until the bubbling stops (about a week), then boil a pint of water with the corn sugar. Cool it, then mix it with the beer in a bottling bucket. Siphon into bottles, cap, and store for at least three weeks. Here's a recipe for a stout that I brewed last July. It's all gone now, sadly. 6.6 lb Munton and Fison dark malt extract syrup 1/2 lb roast barley grains 1/4 lb 2-row malted barley 1/4 lb chocolate malt (grain, not milkshakes!) 1/2 lb cracked wild rice 1.5 oz various hops (cleaning out my cupboard) 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1/2 cup dark Brer Rabbit molasses 2 cups brewed Gevalia coffee 1 pk ale yeast 3/4 cup corn sugar or 1 cup dried malt extract for bottling As you can see, it's hard to hurt a stout. :-) Steep the grains for an hour or so at 150-180 degrees, then drain them into your brewpot through a collander. Trickle hot water through them until all the sweetness is extracted into the pot. Add your syrup, cinnamon, coffee and molasses, and boil for an hour. Toss half the hops in after 30 minutes, then the rest 5-10 minutes before you're done. Cool, transfer to fermenter, add water, add yeast, ferment for a week or so, add sugar as in the first recipe, bottle and wait several weeks before popping the top. Note that neither of these are German-style beers. For that, you'll need to use a lager yeast and a cold room for fermenting, which will take much longer. If you want to pump up the alcohol content, use more malt extract. Note that as you approach 7-8%, the alcohol will tend to kill the yeast, and you may have trouble carbonating your beer. Personally, I find high-alcohol brews to have an objectionable taste. If you want darker beers, use more chocolate and/or black patent malt. Basically this is malted barley that has been roasted to varying degrees of wicked blackness. --- Maximus 2.01wb * Origin: The Spare Computer (1:282/62) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 925/60 973/1 980/2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#94, 17-10-92 20:51:04 From: Rick Garvin To: All Subject: Recipes I see frequent requests for recipes on the conference. Since I do not routinely type up my recipes I do not post everything that I make. However, The Barley Corn, an east coast beer newspaper somewhat like The Celebrator, commisioned an article on Vienna/Marzen/Oktoberfest from me. I humbly post this for your consumption. George Fix's book _Vienna_ has greatly influenced my view of what these beers are. So, for further reference... ___________________________________ Excerpted from Barley Corn, Vol. 2 No. 5 ___________________________________ Oktoberfest for the Home Brewer When the general public is asked to name some specialty beer styles, one that is frequently mentioned is Oktoberfest. There is a folk lore, that has developed by word of mouth, that this beer is a special one brewed for a very serious party - the annual Munich Oktoberfest. So, for their very own serious party, one of the first specialty beers that home brewers try to brew is this Oktoberfest beer. The beer served at Oktoberfest is actually named Marzen. This is the German name for the month of March, but this is actually more of a brewing method than a style of beer. Until the 1840s, Marzen beer was brewed in the spring and stored in cold cellars, ice houses and ice caves in the summers before refrigeration was available. Without refrigeration it was impossible to brew beer in the summer. So, what was made in the spring had to last all summer. The last of this beer was drunk at the Oktoberfest. Thus comes the alias: Oktoberfest beer. With the advent of refrigeration this long aged beer was no longer a necessity. However, beer revolutionaries Anton Dreher and Gabriel Sedlmayr recognized the unique smoothness and flavor associated with this beer and enabled the transition of the Marzen style into the Industrial Age. In order to reproduce a true Marzen beer we must first define what we are trying to make. This beer is an amber, malty, full bodied beer with a balanced bitterness and subtle, but noticeable noble hop aroma. This translates to a starting specific gravity between 1.052 and 1.064 (13-16 Plato), alcohol between 4.8 and 6.5%, hopping rate between 6.6 and 8.83 HBUs (22-28 IBUs), and color between 8 and 12 degrees SRM. The most important features of this beer are subjective and cannot be easily put into numbers. George Fix in the Brewer's Publication book Vienna (highly recommended) states that the best descriptors for this beer are elegance, softness, complexity, and balance. He believe this is brought about by using the highest quality ingredients, long aging, a proper yeast, and meticulous handling. I believe that meticulous handling is the key. At least 85% of all home brewers never go beyond brewing beer with malt extract. There are kits available for Oktoberfest, but all of them miss the Marzen mark. I recommend Alexander's unhopped pale malt extract in all cases where extract is called for. This is the palest extract available. This way we can get the color and character that we choose by adding our choice of specialty malts, not the manufacturers choice. I present three Marzen recipes in increasing order of challenge. These are based on extract, partial mash, and an all grain formulation. Extract Oktoberfest for 5.5 gallons 2 4 lbs cans Alexander's Unhopped Pale Malt Extract 1 lb 40 Lovibond Crystal Malt 7 HBU noble bittering hops (Saaz, Tettnanger, or Hallertauer) for 60 minutes 1/4 oz Saaz aroma hops for 10 minutes 1 tsp. Irish Moss lager yeast 3/4 cup corn sugar or krausen to bottle * Original gravity: 1.052 * Terminal gravity: 1.012 Procedure: Add the crushed crystal malt to one gallon cold water. Slowly bring the water to 165 F, over 30 minutes. Pour the grain through a colander, reserving the liquid. Rinse the grain with hot water and add all of the collected sweet wort to the kettle. Add water to the kettle, reserving space for the extract. It is preferable to boil the entire brew. This will make a noticeable flavor difference. Bring the water to a boil for 15 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, to avoid scorching, and add the extract and bittering hops. Boil this mixture for 60 minutes. 15 minutes before the boil is over add the Irish Moss. 10 minutes before the boil is over add the aroma hops. Chill the beer to 55 F and pitch the yeast. Ferment at between 50 and 55 F for two weeks. Transfer to a secondary fermenter and age for 6 weeks to 6 months at 33 F. Bottle or keg, as desired. Partial Mash Oktoberfest for 5.5 gallons 1 4 lb can Alexander's Unhopped Pale Malt Extract 1 lb Laaglander Extra Light Dry Malt Extract 3 lbs Pilsener Malt (use Klages or Lager malt as a substitute) 1 lb Cara-Pils Malt 1 lb 40 Lovibond Crystal Malt 8 HBU noble bittering hops (Saaz, Tettnanger, or Hallertauer) for 60 minutes 1/4 oz Saaz aroma hops for 10 minutes 1 tsp. Irish Moss lager yeast 3/4 cup corn sugar or krausen to bottle * Original Gravity: 1.055 * Terminal Gravity: 1.012 Procedure: Add 1.33 qts/lb, 6.65 qts, of water at 165 F to the crushed grain. Stabilize at 151 F. Mash for 45 minutes, careful not to allow the temperature above 158 F. Boost the temperature to 160 F and sparge with 6.65 qts water at 165 F. Add water, reserving space for the extract, and bring to a boil for 30 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, to avoid scorching, and add the extract and bittering hops. Boil this mixture for 60 minutes. 15 minutes before the boil is over add the Irish Moss. 10 minutes before the boil is over add the aroma hops. Chill the beer to 55 F and pitch the yeast. Ferment at between 50 and 55 F for two weeks. Transfer to a secondary fermenter and age for 6 weeks to 6 months at 33 F. Bottle or keg, as desired. All Grain Oktoberfest for 5.5 gallons 10 lbs Pilsener Malt (use Klages or Lager malt as a substitute) 1 lb Cara-Pils Malt 8 oz 10 Lovibond Crystal Malt 4 oz 60 Lovibond Crystal Malt 4 oz 120 Lovibond Crystal Malt 9 HBU noble bittering hops (Saaz, Tettnanger, or Hallertauer) for 60 minutes 1/2 oz Saaz aromatic hops for 10 minutes 1 tsp. Irish Moss lager yeast 3/4 cup corn sugar or krausen to bottle * Original Gravity: 1.059 * Terminal Gravity: 1.013 Procedure: Perform either a double decoction or a temperature step infusion mash. You will get a slightly higher extraction rate with the traditional decoction mash, but an equally good beer can be made with the simpler infusion mash. Use a sacharification rest in the high range, 153 F is a good goal. For good references see Brewing Lager Beer by Greg Noonan and The Complete Handbook of Home Brewing by Dave Miller. For this beer I favor the approach detailed by Miller. I use 1.33 qts/lb, around 4 gallons, of treated brewing water (preboiled). I dough-in with this water at 135 F, stabilizing at 122 F for a 30 minute protein rest. Immediately boost to 155 F; after 30 minutes boost to 155F again. Sparge to collect 7 gallons. Boil vigorously (very hard) for 30 minutes. Add the bittering hops and maintain a rolling boil for 60 minutes. 15 minutes before the boil is over add the Irish Moss. 10 minutes before the boil is over add the aroma hops. Chill the beer to 55 F and pitch the yeast. Ferment at between 50 and 55 F for two weeks. Transfer to a secondary fermenter and age for 6 weeks to 6 months at 33 F. Bottle or keg, as desired. Notes on Yeast and Fermentation A real Marzen is fermented at cool temperatures with lager yeast. Making an Oktoberfest ale at room temperature with these recipes is going to turn out a tasty beer. But the elegant smoothness associated with this beer is going to be missing. Even a lagering of 2 weeks is going to make a big difference. I must warn the home brewer away from dry yeasts. These are full of dead yeast and bacteria. The widely available Wyeast products are your best bet. The Wyeast No. 2308 is a Weihenstephan (the Bavarian National Brewing Academy) culture that produces a slightly fruity beer that is appropriate for this style. The Wyeast No. 2206, called the Bavarian lager yeast, is another Weihenstephan culture that accentuates malt character. In preparing the Wyeast cultures it is important to pitch an appropriate quantity. I recommend that the home brewer begin the process 1 week before the brew date. Whack the package as per the instructions. If the yeast is fresh the package will be swollen within 48 hours. Prepare 1/2 gallon of yeast starter by boiling 8 oz (weight) of dry malt extract in water. Inoculate the chilled starter with the yeast from the package. Ferment with an air lock until the yeast flocculates. This should provide you with around 15 grams of yeast slurry. To pitch the yeast pour the beer off and add the yeast sediment to the fermenter with your beer. It is very important to oxygenate your beer. This can be done by, carefully, pouring your chilled wort from a great height into the fermenter. All of the dissolved oxygen will be metabolized by the yeast within 5 minutes. This amount of yeast, with good oxygenation, will give you a quick start at 55 F. If you choose to use less yeast, or have poor oxygenation, you will have a slower start, especially at cooler temperatures. ___ X WinQwk 2.0 #0 X Unregistered Evaluation Copy --- Maximus/2 2.01wb * Origin: No Tarmac Brewing (1:109/131) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 925/60 973/1 980/2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#76, 22-10-92 00:15:00 From: Mark Melanson To: All Subject: Pumpkin Beer Re: Pumpkin Beer By: David Burns #0 @1:150/2 FIDOnet > Every time I walk past a nearby grocery store and see all the pumpkins out > front for 9 cents/lb, I keep thinking about what it would taste like in a bee > Does anybody have a good recipe for a pumpkin ale? From Cat's Meow II Chapter 13: Historical Interest Pumpkin Ale Source: Thomas Manteufel (tomm@pet.med.ge.com) Digest: Issue #748, 10/25/91 Receipt for Pompion Ale: Let the Pompion be beaten in a Trough and pressed as Apples. The expres- sed Juice is to be boiled in a Copper a considerable Time and carefully skimmed that there may be no Remains of the fibrous Part of the Pulp. After that Intention is answered let the Liquor be hopped cooled fer- mented &c. as Malt Beer. Comments: An anonymous recipe for pumpkin ale appeared in the papers of the American Philosophical Society in February, 1771. The author notes that he obtained this recipe from someone who claimed this tasted like malt ale, with only a slight "twang". After two years in the bottle, this twang had mellowed to an acceptable level. And this tidbit from The New Complete Joy of Homebrewing: Use cooked pumpkin and add it to a mash with active enzymes. Do not use canned pumpkin to which preservatives have been added. Feel free to throw in some pumpkin pie spices (ginger, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, cloves). I could have sworn I saw a recipe around here. Oh well. Hope this helps. --- VFIDO 5.52.04 * Origin: The Black Hole BBS (1:150/370) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 925/60 973/1 980/2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#84, 22-10-92 09:32:00 From: Pat Goulding To: David Burns Subject: Re: pumpkin beer DB> about what it would taste like in a beer. Does anybody have DB> a good recipe for a pumpkin ale? 6# light Dried Malt extract 1.5 oz Mt Hood pellets .5 oz Tettnager pellets 6# pumpkin 1 Burton water slats 1 tsp Irish moss .5 tsp Vanilla extract or .5 Vanill bean cut open 1 tsp Cinnamon .5 tsp each Nutmeg, Allspice, Mace .25 tsp Clove (ground) Wyeast 1007 or 1214 Peel and seed pumpkin and bake @ 350 until soft. Heat 1.5 Gal. water add malt, Mt Hood hops and pumpkin - boil for 30. Add salts and moss boil for 15 more. Add finish hops boil for 5 min. Strain cool and pitch. Add spices to SECONDARY. Prime .75 C corn sugar bottle and age for 3 to 4 weeks. Recipe shamelessly stolen from Beer & Wine Hobby recipe of the month. I haven't tried this. ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.10 --- Maximus/2 2.01wb * Origin: No Tarmac Brewing (1:109/131) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 925/60 973/1 980/2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#81, 12-08-92 18:04:00 From: Roy Rudebusch To: All Subject: Munich dunkel recipe Dear Fellow Zymurgists; I would like to share my recipe for a Dunkel (yet to be brewed.) This is one of the most difficult brews to brew _properly_. Homebrewers have a tendency to use too much crystal in order to achieve the malty flavor and aroma. And roasted grains, ie. black, roasted and chocolate, should be used with a light hand also. The malty character is achieved by using quality German 2-row and by 32-34F lagering for at least 4 weeks. Munich dark (dunkel): 5 gal OG 1050 TG 1014-1016 7.75# Ireks (German) Pilsner 2-row malt 1/2# Dark Ireks Crystal (60L) 1/2# M&F (English) dark caramel (60L) 4 oz M&F Black Patent (if domestic use only 2 oz.) 6 HBU Hall 60 min. Mash at 152F for 1 hour Good lager W-yeast (2206) ferment at 57F Max 50F min For a partial mash, substitute a high quality pale unhopped malt extract, like Northwestern Golden, be sure it is _fresh_! (6.6#) for the Pilsner pale malt. Prosit! * OLX 2.2 * Cure insomia by putting hops in your pillow --- InterPCB 1.50 * Origin: TRAVEL ONLINE / ST. LOUIS' #1 BBS / 314-973-4073 (1:100/635) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 914/1001 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#87, 05-07-92 11:45:00 From: Roy Rudebusch To: Charles King Subject: Recipe request CK----I recently tried a few mugs of German made SPATEN dark, and immediately CK----fell in love with the taste. Does anyone have a recipe that CK----will produce a brew similar to SPATEN dark? Thanks.. You just don't ask for too much do you? This is one of the most difficult brews to brew _properly_. Homebrewers have a tendency to use too much crystal in order to achieve the malty flavor and aroma. The malty character is achieved by using quality German 2-row and by 32-34F lagering for at least 4 weeks. And, of course, doing everything else right. Munich dark (dunkel): 5 gal OG 1050 TG 1014-1016 7.75# Ireks (German) Pilsner 2-row malt 1/2# Dark Ireks Crystal (60L) 1/2# M&F (English) dark caramel (60L) 4 oz M&F Black Patent (if domestic use only 2 oz.) 6 HBU Hall 60 min. Good lager W-yeast (2206) Mash at 152F for 1 hour If you was to go with a partial mash, substitute a high quality pale unhopped malt extract (6.6#) for the Pilsner pale malt. Cheers and Good Luck to ya'! Roy Rudebusch * OLX 2.2 * Cure insomia by putting hops in your pillow --- InterPCB 1.50 * Origin: TRAVEL ONLINE / ST. LOUIS' #1 BBS / 314-973-4073 (1:100/635) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 914/1001 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#91, 24-08-92 06:48:00 From: Roy Rudebusch To: Tom Hamp Subject: Coffee stout Coffee Stout 5 gal OG 1056 6.6# Pale Extract 1# Dk Crystal 1# 2-row 1/2# Black Patent 8-12 HBUs for bittering Mash and sparge grains at 150F. Top up to 5 gal. Bring to boil add hops, boil 30 min. Add extract, boil 10 min. For finishing add: 1 pot good black coffee (hold the cream and sugar) 1/2 oz Cascade pellets Boil two min, then chill. * OLX 2.2 * "You'll have a dozen doughnuts and a Coffee Stout? --- InterPCB 1.50 * Origin: TRAVEL ONLINE / ST. LOUIS' #1 BBS / 314-973-4073 (1:100/635) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 914/1001 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#100, 28-08-92 18:30:42 From: Mike Snyder To: Roy Rudebusch Subject: Root beer Category 8, Topic 12 Message 90 Sun Jun 21, 1992 B.CAPLAN [GOODTIME Bob] at 17:41 EDT I was asked to add the Alcoholic Root Beer recipe from the "Winners" book. Here it is: Hi-Res Root Beer Wayne Waananen Denver, Colorado First Place, Herb Beer, 1987 (extract recipe) Ingredients for 5 gallons 3 pounds Munton & Fison amber dry malt extract 2 1/5 pounds Premier hopped malt extract ssyrup 1/2 pound crystal malt 1/4 pound chocolate malt 1 1/2 teaspoons Zatarain's root beer extract 1 teaspoon Irish moss (30 minutes) 1 ounce Cascade leaf hops (60 minutes) 1/2 ounce Cascade leaf hops (10 minutes) 1/2 ounce Cascade leaf hops (after boil) 2 packages Muntona yeast 2/3 cup dextrose to prime *Original specific gravity: 1.045 *Teminal specific gravity: 1.018 *Age when judged (since bottling): 2 months Brewers specifics Added 1/4 teaspoon root beer extract last 10 minutes of boil. After 10 minutes removed from heat, added last of hops and force- cooled with wort chiller. After reaching 90 degrees F (about 15 minutes) sparged into carboy and pitched yeast. Racked into secondary at seven days. At keging added 1/4 teaspoon root beer extract along with dextrose. So there you go.... happy brewing!!! GOODTIME Bob ------------ --- Maximus 2.01wb * Origin: Aardvark's Aquarium -- We all live in one fishbowl. (1:283/121) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 914/1001 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#97, 01-09-92 10:15:06 From: Tom Jeffrey To: Patrick Dubois Subject: RE: Specialty Beers! Here's one form The Cat's Meow 2. Spiced Ale Source: Ken Weiss (krweiss@ucdavis.edu) Digest: Issue #743, 10/18/91 Ingredients: 7 pounds amber liquid extract (Alexanders, I think) 2 pounds crystal malt, cracked 1 pound chocolate malt, cracked 2 ounces Hallertauer hops 2 ounces Saaz hops 4 ounces fresh ginger, grated 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon 1 pint starter of Wyeast American Ale yeast Procedure: Steep crystal and chocolate malt in hot, but not boiling, water for about 1/2 hour. Strain out grains, sparge with hot water. Add extract, stir until dissolved. Bring to a boil and add all the Hallertauer hops, the ginger and the cinnamon. Boil 1 hour. Chill the wort, transfer to primary, and add Saaz hops. Pitch the yeast. When the fermentation slows, transfer to secondary fermentor. Prime with 3/4 cup corn sugar and bottle when fermentation appears complete. Comments: Really nice balance of flavors. The dry-hopped Saaz blended with the ginger and cinnamon aroma really well, and the ginger flavor is perfect. The cinnamon didn't contribute much flavor, and seems to have led to a muddier beer than I usually get. Probably would have been better to use stick cinnamon instead of ground... The color is much lighter than I would have expected. Tom Jeffrey --- Tabby 2.2 * Origin: COMPUSALE - New compter sale echo, Email sysop at (1:124/2118) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 914/1001 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#92, 02-09-92 09:02:04 From: Andy Schoenhofer To: Kevin Doshier Subject: Octoberfest KD> Since October seems to be rolling around I wanted to try an >Octoberfest brew. Does anyone have a recipe that makes a good >Octoberfest brew?? I would reallt appreciate it!! According to what I read in Miller's Guide to World Beers, a Maerzen is a type of Oktoberfest beer. It was trditionally brewed in spring for consumption in fall, so I guess it's perfect. In that case, the Papazian recipe for Winky Dink Maerzen works pretty good (p. 164 in TCJOHB). Here's what I used in my recipe and it turned out good (not too carbonated, but I think I filled the bottles up too much -- it's only my sixth batch. Nice creamy head though.): 1.8 kg light Bierkeller malt extract 1.3 kg WineArt light dry extract 2.5 oz Hallertauer hops 250 g crystal malt (0.5 lb) 0.5 cup chocolate malt yeast 1.25 cups light dry malt extract for priming OG 1.042 FG 1.012 Papazian calls for 7 lbs of Bavarian Gold malt extract, but it was cheaper for me to use some dry and I couldn't find Bavarian Gold here in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. My amount added up to 6.84 lbs. I used Papazian's simple method of adding the cystal and chocolate malt to 6 qts of cold water in the brew kettle, straining most of it out after it boils and then adding the malt extract and 2 oz of the hops. After an hour or so, add the remaining hops for the last 2-5 minutes, sparge into fermenter, top up and pitch the yeast when it's cooled. No doubt some advantage might be realized by holding the mash at various temperatures instead of just heating steadily to boiling. I don't think it'd be much different with this small amount of grain though. Ends up a nice dark colour that you could adjust by reducing the chocolate and bumping up the crystal maybe. I brewed it June 18 and the bottle I had yesterday was beautiful -- took about three weeks to get rid of its latent sweetness from the malt priming (I figure) and now it's very smooth and clear. Now I'm trying to decide which Guinness Stout recipe I should try from the five I have. What's a hobby without decisions? Andy * OLX 2.2 * 4 out of 5 people think the 5th is an idiot. --- Maximus 2.00 * Origin: *THE K-W AMATEUR RADIO BBS-(VE3MTS)* ->HST 14.4<- (1:221/177) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 914/1001 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#10, 14-05-93 15:34:00 From: Eric Knudsen To: All Subject: STALE AMBER BEER (1) An Eighteenth Century Beer No-one knows what the the brews of two centuries ago were like. Eighteenth century brewing practice was different from twentieth, or even most nineteenth century technique. To produce a beer that approximates those of the eighteenth century it is necessary to consider how the beer was made, and then try to guess what effect this would have. Porter, for example, would be unlike the modern brews of that name. It would be very strong and full bodied, and, as it was brewed solely with brown malt, have an intense caramel taste, with none of the burnt flavours associated with more highly coloured modern specialty malts. Most surprisingly, it would also have a strong, and perhaps intimidating, smoked flavour. I have chosen stale amber ale as my objective, as it is easier to imitate with modern ingredients than most other brews, was highly regarded in the eighteenth century, and, I hate smoky beers! Eighteenth century malts were kilned on screens over an open fire, with the smoke passing directly through the grain. Coke, an easily regulated fuel which produces very little smoke to flavour or colour the grain, was used for pale and amber malts. Darker malts were kilned over less controllable fires of straw, wood, or fern, which introduced smoky flavours, and if the grain was to be adequately dried, then it was inevitable that some of it would be scorched. Before the commercial production of coke began in 1680, all British ales were medium brown or darker in colour. Except for London, where massed produced porters brewed with brown malt dominated, most preferred the lighter malts: "The amber-coloured is that which is dried in a medium degree, between the pale and brown, as is very much in use, as being free from either extreme. Its colour is pleasant, its taste is agreeable, and its nature wholesome, which makes it preferred by many as the best of malts." Smoke flavoured beers have recently become popular with some homebrewers, but eighteenth century opinion was not as favourable: "Pale and amber malts dried with coke ..., obtain a more clean, bright, pale colour, than if dried with any other fuel, because there is not smoke to darken and sully their skins or husks, and give them an ill relish which those malts have, more or less, that are dried with straw, wood, or fern. The coke or Welsh coal also makes more true and complete malt than any other fuel, because its fire gives both a gentle and certain heat, whereby the corns in all their parts gradually dried; and therefore of late these malts have gained such a reputation, that great quantities have been consumed in most parts of the nation for their wholesome nature and sweet fine taste." "Brown malts are dried with straw, wood, and fern , the straw dried is best; the wood sort has a most ungrateful taste, and few can bear it, but the necessitous, and those that are accustomed to its strong smoky tang; yet it is much used in some of the western parts of England. The fern malt is also attended with a rank disagreeable taste from the smoke of this vegetable." All eighteenth century malts were diastasic malts - that is, they contained diastasic enzymes and could be mashed to produce sweet wort. Brewers normally used only one specific type of malt for each kind of beer, ale or porter. Our modern highly flavoured and coloured specialty malts were not possible until D. Wheeler invented the cylindrical drum roaster incorporating water sprays in 1816, which allowed the very precise roasting of malts. Attempts to produce malt darker than brown malt over an open fire resulted in a runaway reaction which reduced the malt to charcoal or ashes. During the nineteenth century brewers moved to more efficient recipes that used pale malt as a source of enzymes and starch, with very small additions of non-diastasic specialty malts and grains to adjust the colour and flavour. Modern brewers use a single mash followed by sparging, which rinses the remaining sugars from the grain. Sparging became normal practice only in the nineteenth century, previously multiple mashes were used to maximize sugar extraction. Double mashes were most common, but sometimes there were as many as four consecutive mashes of the same malt. The wort produced by each mash was brewed separately. The first mashes would contain most of the extractable sugars, the wort from the final mashes was used to produce small beer or ale. Much of the small beer was consumed by children, it was considered more wholesome than water. The starting gravity of the beer brewed from the main or first mash was typically between 1.075 and 1.110, that of the small ale or beer brewed from the second mash about 1.035 to 1.055, similar to the strength of modern beer. For the homebrewer, malt extract makes it easy to obtain the high gravities required, without having to make a secondary brew to use up the otherwise wasted sugars. It is no longer considered politically correct to use children to consume the surplus small beer. The hops used in the eighteenth century were presumably low in bitterness, like the traditional Goldings and Fuggles strains, which were originally used as bittering hops as well as for aroma. Modern high alpha strains should be avoided. It was recommended that several additions of hops should be made: "... we advise the boiling [of] two parcels of fresh hops in each copper of ale-wort; and, if there were three for keeping beer, it would be so much the better for the taste, health of body, and longer preservation of the beer in a sound smooth condition." "Hops have a fine grateful bitter, which makes the drink easy of digestion; they also keep it from running into such cohesions as would make it ropy, vapid, and sour; and therefore are not only of great use in boiled, but in raw worts, and to preserve them sound till they can be put into the copper, and afterwards in the tun, while the drink is working." Up to the late nineteenth century, the word stale meant old and mature, and stale beer was more expensive than new beer. This beer was originally brewed using only amber malt; the beer's name refers to the type of malt used rather than the colour of the beer, which is darker than a modern bitter but lighter than most modern brown ales. Modern amber malt is intended to be used in small quantities to modify the colour and flavour of a brew. It has few diastasic properties, and cannot be used as the sole source of malt in a brew. It cannot be substituted for eighteenth century amber malt. The mixture of pale malt extract, crystal malt, and chocolate malt used in this recipe is an attempt to approximate the flavour and taste of the original malt. Additions such as black malt or roasted barley should be avoided as they would introduce anachronistic burnt flavours. This is a beer rather than an ale. In the eighteenth century beers were much more highly hopped than ales, and were usually of a higher gravity. Beers were more suited to long storage and being served stale than were ales. Before the sixteenth century, ales were usually not hopped at all. I suspect an eighteenth century brewer would find this recipe rather weak, more suited to being given to the scullery maids for breakfast than served to the high table with dinner. The only excuse I can offer is that we live in less heroic times. I used two main sources of information for this article. The first (1771) edition of the Encycopaedia Britannica was an ambitious project attempting to record the world's accumulated knowledge - the first volume only covers subjects beginning with A and B. Then the money ran out, and all other subjects were compressed into just two additional volumes! Fortunately, brewing begins with the letter B, and is covered in detail. All quotes are from this source. Old British Beers and How to Make Them was written by Dr. John Harrison and members of the Durden Park Beer Club after years of research and practical experimentation. --- TBBS v2.1/NM * Origin: Certa Cito BBS. Perth, Ontario. (613) 264-9093 (1:256/105) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 910/1 915/1 970/201 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#11, 14-05-93 15:35:00 From: Eric Knudsen To: All Subject: STALE AMBER BEER (2) Stale Amber Beer Ingredients: To brew four Imperial gallons, (or five U.S. gallons) with a starting gravity of 1.065, and a final gravity of 1.015. 7 lb. United Canadian Malt Ltd. dried pale malt extract (made in England) 1 lb. Canada Malting Co. Ltd. Carastan (Crystal) malt (40 L) 4 oz. Chocolate malt 1 tsp. Calcium Sulphate (gypsum water treatment) 1 tsp. Irish Moss (copper finings) 4 oz. Willamette Hops (loose from Freshops 4.4% Alpha Acid - add just after the beginning of the boil) 1 oz. Fuggles Hops (loose from Freshops - 4.2% AA - add 15 min. from end of boil) 1 oz. Tettnanger Hops (loose from Freshops - 5.1% AA - add at end of boil) 1 pkg Wyeast 1098 liquid ale yeast culture Procedure: Crush the crystal and chocolate malt coarsely. Steep malt in two quarts warm (not boiling) water to which a quarter teaspoon of calcium sulphate has been added (this will limit the amount of tannin leached from the husks). After fifteen minutes, strain out husks and pour the resulting extract into the boiling vessel, along with four Imperial gallons of water, the remaining calcium sulphate, and the dry malt extract. Boil wort fifteen minutes and then add the Willamette hops. Continue to boil for ah hour and a half, add the Irish moss and the Fuggles hops, and then boil for a final fifteen minutes (total boil time is two hours). Add the Tettnanger hops as the heat is turned off. Cool wort rapidly, strain out hops and trub, aerate (stir in air) and then pour into a standard four imperial gallon/five U.S. gallon carboy with the activated yeast and enough water to fill carboy completely (a pail could be used as a container for the first stage of fermentation if you wish). Ferment in a cool dark place for one week - using first an overflow tube, and when fermentation subsides, an airlock to seal the carboy. Siphon beer into another identical carboy. Cooled boiled water should be added to ensure carboy is completely filled. Age at least four months before kegging or bottling. If the ale is to be kept for more than a year before it is consumed, an excellent idea if you have sufficient patience, it develops a more complex, vinous flavour. I am not using any priming as it will be served from a soda keg with minimal carbonation. If bottling you could add about two and a half to three ounces of demerara sugar. It would be a good idea to add a fresh yeast culture at the same time to get consistent carbonation. In the eighteenth century this type of beer was served in pewter or ceramic tankards at cellar temperature. Haze was not a problem. The more cautious modern brewer, who may not be able to control serving temperature, or is offering the beer to tacky drinkers who insist on being able to see what they are consuming, may add two tablespoons of polyclar to the secondary. This beer was brewed in the middle of January, 1993, and will be served on tap at CAMRA Ottawa's Spring Homebrew Competition. It will be held by the Ottawa Homebrew Committee on May 29, 1993, 7:00 PM at the Dempsey Community Centre, Russell Road, Ottawa. --- TBBS v2.1/NM * Origin: Certa Cito BBS. Perth, Ontario. (613) 264-9093 (1:256/105) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 910/1 915/1 970/201 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#65, 27-05-93 18:52:46 From: John Eustace To: Kevin Mott Subject: English Brown Ale On (Tue 25 Ma) Kevin Mott wrote to All... KM> Does anyone out there have a good traditional English Brown Ale recipe KM> they KM> want to share? I've got Papazian's book but one of the local gurus KM> (brew-ru's?) said that his recipes were not representitive of the KM> stated KM> styles. I agree with the "local guru" of brew. Miller, however, is quite true to style. What follows is his extract recipe for Brown Ale (actually Mild): Ingredients: 3.3 lbs unhopped British Malt extract syrup 1 lb British Pale dry extract 8 oz British Crystal Malt 4 oz chocolate malt 1 lb dark brown sugar (added to wort) 6 AAUs Fuggles, Goldings, or Northern Brewer 1 tsp Yeast nutrient 2 Packets of Munton & Fison Yeast or 1 packet of either EDME or Whitbread (If you use liquid yeasts, Wyeast #1098 will give you an appropriate flavour profile for the style). (Note: there are no finishing hops in a traditional British Brown Ale. If you'd like finishing hops in there, I'd recommend a 1/2 oz of Goldings. That would make for a very light hoppy aroma, suitable to style.) Cheers JE --- PPoint 1.60 * Origin: Wigan Pier, Kingston, ONT. (1:249/109.2) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 910/1 915/1 970/201 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#69, 26-05-93 16:34:00 From: Kent Taylor To: Rodney Green Subject: ENGLISH ESB Rodney: I am glad everyone enjoyed the ESB, it sure was a hit around here. I have just recently brewed an American Red and an American Brown using this same basic recipe. They all turned out very nicely. So, I think that you will be able to duplicate this with the same results. Grain: Klages pale malt 7 lbs 3 oz Cara Pils - dextrin 1 lbs 6 oz Crystal 40l 15 oz Mash water: After adding 1 tsp. of gypsum I adjusted the pH to 5.53 and heated to 170 degrees. I added approximately 11 quarts of water to the grist. Mash: Strike temperature was 154 degrees and a pH of 5.19. Mash time - 2 hours. Sparge: Sparge water pH was adjusted to 5.45 and heated to 180 degrees in order to achieve a final sparge strike temp. of 170 degrees and grain was sparged for 45 min. Boil: I added 1 tsp of gypsum at the beginning and 1 tsp of irish moss at 30 before the end. Total boil time was 75 minutes. Hops: Willamette 4.3 alpha - 2 oz at 60 minutes(before end) Willamette 4.3 alpha - 1 oz at 15 min Tettnanger 4.2 alpha(whole) - 1 oz at End Yeast: Chico 1056 Wyeast in a starter. I have had just as good of luck, if not better, with 1028 London ale yeast in a starter. Original gravity:1.049 pH:4.96 Terminal gravity:1.013 pH:4.48 Fermentation: In soda keg - 10 days - 60 degrees. After fermentation: One week at 32-34 degrees Filter: Beer was filtered through a .5 micron absolute cartridge type filter. Carbonation: Chilled beer (32-34 degrees) was put under 10psi and rocked 200+ times. All strike temps are critical but start temps should be adjusted to your brewing methods. After initial blow-off period I closed the keg and periodically let out CO2 to maintain 13-14psi. When temp was dropped to 32-34 I would periodically add CO2 to maintain 10psi. Be carefull, if you do not let the CO2 out often enough then you will over carbonate the beer. I did that once and had to reattach the blow-off tube. If I have forgotten anything, please post me a note. BTW: I got the ribbon and score sheets - thanks. Did you say something about a mug? Good brewing. KT --- ■ VbReader V1.3 ■Ok, now for a quick backu╟A╤&²#^1s≡ --- TMail v1.31.2 * Origin: The Nashville Exchange * 24 Lines * 615-383-0727 (1:116/19) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 910/1 915/1 970/201 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#70, 03-06-93 19:47:16 From: Luke Enriquez To: All Subject: Melomel Recipe (LONG) Hello All! I found this in a mead lovers digest archive from Internet. I thought you might be interested. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 13:53:37 EDT From: loc@bostech.com Subject: plum melomel recipe (long) I've gotten a few requests to post this recipe. I've added some of my process also to give you an idea of my mead making. As you read this you'll see that I make a product which is alot like wine. Some general comments about the recipe. If you want the end product to be sweeter you can add more honey. But do not get the original gravity above 1.100 or you will have problems with stuck fermentation or sluggish fermentation. You can add an much as 50lbs of plums if you want this to be _really_ plummy. Relative to original gravity, the higher the gravity the longer the product will need to bottle age. I use acid blend to balance out the end product. This is strickly a personal preference. If you really want to get into it and check the SO2 levels there are test kits available for that, this will ensure that you have the right amount of sulfites for the end product you are making. Having made these statements here is my recipe for Plum Melomel. Enjoy! Plum Melomel To make: 5 gallons ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 7.5lbs Citrus Honey (Orange Blossom is the best or whatever ) (honey you like to use ) 25-30lbs Plums (halved and pitted is best, but at least halved) (if you can freeze them for a couple of weeks ) (before you use them you'll get a better juice ) (yield because freezing breaks down the cell ) (walls ) 3-4 tsp. Yeast Nutrient 1 pkg Pectic Enzyme 1 pkg Champagne Yeast Acid Blend (you'll need an Acid Testing Kit to ) (determine how much to add. amounts ) (depend greatly on the plums ) The Day Before: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Start the yeast by boiling 1.5cup of orange juice with 1.5 cup of water. Take it off the heat and add 1 tsp of yeast nutrient. Cool the mixture. When cool put into a sulfited bottle add the yeast and agitate occasionally over the next 24 hours. The Day of: ~~~~~~~~~~~ Make sure the plums are at room temp do not heat them to do this, just let them come up to room temp naturally. Dissolve the honey in 2 gallons of water, do not let it boil, just get the water hot enough to dissolve the honey. Combine the plums, honey water, yeast nutrient, pectic enzyme and 2 more gallons of water in a large open primary fermenter. Mix well and take a gravity reading add water until the gravity reading is between 1.080 and 1.090.(I believe 1 pint of water will drop 1 gallon of must 0.010, I can't remember exactly) Once the gravity is correct add the yeast stir it up cover lightly. Stir the fruit down twice a day, once in the AM and once in the PM. Some Days Later: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Check the gravity after about 5 days. When the gravity reaches 1.020, rack and press the must into a sulfited glass secondary fermenter and add 1/2 camdon(?sp) tablet per gallon of must to prevent oxidation. If the fermenter is not full to within 1/2" of the lip use sulfited marbles to make up the difference. Fit a fermentation lock on the bottle and let it rip. When the gravity reaches 1.000 rack again into a clean sulfited carboy again adding 1/2 camdon(?sp) tablet per gallon for the same reason. Again if the mead does not come within 1/2" of the lip use sulfited marbles to make up the difference. Test the acid level at this point using your handy dandy acid testing kit and adjust the acid to a level of .55. The kit will tell you given what your acid level is at how much to add. When the fermentation stops, let it sit for a few days to let the lees settle out. Rack into a clean sulfited carboy adding 1 camdon(?sp) tablet per gallon of product and fine with a Bentonite mixture. Let this sit for 10 days. Rack the final product (leaving the lees behind as usual) into a clean sulfited carboy and let bulk age for three months. If you have a spare frig you can put the carboy in, the last month of the bulk age put the mead in the frig to chill proof it. Bottling: ~~~~~~~~~ If you are lucky enough to have a wine filter. Filter the mead with fine filters and bottle. Let bottle age for at least 6 months (1 year is better). Enjoy. - ----------------------------------------------------------- Roger Locniskar Boston Technology Inc. <loc@bostech.com> Wakefield, MA 01880 - ----------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Regards, Luke --- FMail 0.94 * Origin: To see the point, is to miss it completely (3:635/563) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 910/1 915/1 970/201 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#73, 04-06-93 23:36:02 From: Luke Enriquez To: All Subject: Cloning Sierra Nevada Pale Ale... Hello All! Most of us here dont have access to the Home Brewing Digesr of Internet. While it was agreed some time ago, that it would be too costly to feed all of the HBD into this echo, I feel sorry for those who cant get to it. Therefore, I hope you dont mind if I "snip" the best articles from the HBD, and repost them here for all to see. I dont want to do this is people are going to start flames about it, etc. That would end up worse than the benefits. But if no one objects, I cant see any problems involved! All feedback welcomed! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 10:12:20 -0500 (CDT) From: tony@spss.com (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570) Subject: snpa revisited Here is some info and speculation on Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and how one might try to clone it. SNPA is surely worth emulating, yet it has an elegance of flavor that is a bit elusive. I can't claim to have cloned it, but am iterating toward it! Note that Sierra Nevada Draught Ale is SG 1.048 while Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (bottled) is SG 1.052. The Draught also tastes a bit sweeter to me than the bottled. Malts used are U.S. 2-row, dextrin malt (U.S. cara-pils), and crystal malt. I don't know the proportions used at Chico, but it seems to me that you shouldn't be too heavy-handed with the crystal malt, as I don't find a pronounced caramel flavor in SNPA, in contrast to, say, Mendocino's Red Tail Ale. Hops are Perle for bittering and Cascade for flavor/aroma. Perles are a fine general-purpose medium-alpha bittering hop, while Cascades are signature hops in SNPA, Liberty Ale, and other American pale ales. Yeast is Wyeast "American" ale or bottle-cultured SNPA. An all-grain recipe for a 5-gallon batch goes as follows (your mileage may vary): 8 pounds U.S. 2-row pale malt 1 pound U.S. cara-pils 0.5 pounds crystal malt 80L 0.8 ounces Perle (alpha 6.5) at 60 minutes 0.5 ounces Cascade (alpha 6.3) at 30 minutes 0.5 ounces Cascade (alpha 6.3) at 2 minutes 0.5 ounces Cascade final addition (see below) yeast is Chico yeast In the mash, aim for a starch conversion temperature of 153 - 155 degrees F for some residual sweetness in the beer. As for the hop schedule, factors such as hop freshness and vigor of boil will affect the final beer. To my palate, SNPA is a medium-bitter beer, not high-bitter beer, so something like 35 IBUs seems to be a good target. Regarding that final hop addition, I believe that Chico runs the hot wort through a hopback with some fresh hops in it, so you might rig up a homebrewer's gadget equivalent of a hopback. Or, you might add the final addition at flame off and let the hot wort sit for 10 minutes with the lid on before chilling. Or, you might try dry-hopping. I'm not claiming that these will produce an equivalent effect, but they are all attempts to give the beer some of the requisite hop flavor and aroma. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Hope it lead to some enlightenment... Regards, Luke --- FMail 0.94 * Origin: To see the point, is to miss it completely (3:635/563) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 910/1 915/1 970/201 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#73, 10-06-93 11:00:36 From: James Sparks To: All Subject: Smithwick type This is a nice pale ale that closely resembles Smithwicks :-) Crystal malt 500 g Caramel malt 200 g Chocolate malt 100 g Flaked barley 120 g Goldings LEAF hops 1 3/4 oz Boil East Kent Golding LEAF hops 1/2 oz finishing Burton Water Salts 20 g (for Kingston water) Munton and Fison Unhopped Light Malt Extract 3 kg Andovin super nutrient 2 tsp Yeast Lab liquid yeast (A05) Irish Ale. OR WYeast (1338) European Ale. Munton and Fison Light Dry malt 2 cups (for priming bottles) Lightly crush malt grains and add to 15 liters of water. Add flaked barley and bring to boil. Strain out grains and barley. Add Boiling hops and boil for 40 min. and remove. Add finishing hops and boil for 10 min. and remove. Move to fermenting pail and add water to the 23 liter mark and pitch yeast when temp is 20 C. HINT - A NYLON GRAIN BAG AND HOP BAGS COME IN HANDY. O.G. 1.045 Enjoy and Cheers ! --- Maximus 2.01wb * Origin: From Beyond the Event Horizon (613-353-6495) (1:249/109) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 910/1 915/1 970/201 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#51, 10-06-93 23:19:00 From: Mark Engebretson To: All Subject: stout recipe For those of you collecting recipes...I offer this: Mark's Oatmeal Butterscotch Chewies Ingredients: 6 lbs Great Western 2 row 1 lb Munich Malt 10L 1 lb Vienna 1 lb Crystal 80L 1/2 lb Chocolate Malt 3/4 lb Roasted Barley 1/4 lb Black Patent 4 lbs Pale Malt Extract 1 inch licorice 1 1/2 lb Quaker Old Fashion Oats 1 cup Mild Molasses 1 lb Brown Sugar 2 oz Galena Hops (pellets) @12.8% Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale 1/2 cup Corn Sugar for priming Procedure: I used a David Miller style mash, using a strike temperature of 136F and immediately raising to 156F for the starch rest. At 45 minutes, the mash passed the iodine test (GW is a fast converter). All grains and Oatmeal were mashed together. Oatmeal makes for a slow sparge. I did the mash with 3 gallons of water and sparged with six. I ended up with 6 gallons of wort. This was a bit much, as I was aiming for five. The problem was that I failed to take into account the 4 lbs of extract (not really a problem :-}). Next time I will cut the sparge to 5 gallons. I brewed for 75 minutes, the hops, extract, molasses, brown sugar, and licorice were added at the 60 minute mark. Comments: I bottled this one just a week ago, and it tastes excellent. In fact, it was smooth at bottling. I have never had a stout taste so good so young! Must be the Oatmeal. It cleanly coats the throat. No excessive bitterness, or burned flavor. Lots of flavor, but very well balanced. Warning: For novice brewers (I still consider myself novice), I have a few words of advice. When brewing with Oatmeal, or at least this recipe, use a full size 1 1/4" blow-off hose. The oatmeal makes for a very foamy blow-off while the high gravity and Wyeast 1084 creates a lot of energy. Specifics: Original Gravity: 1.084 (6 gallons) Final Gravity: 1.023 (about 8% alc by vol) Primary Ferment: 8 days --- RAMail 3.2 * Origin: Missing Bit II (619) 442-4875 (1:202/111) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 910/1 915/1 970/201 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#73, 10-06-93 11:37:00 From: Luke Enriquez To: Tony Laughton Subject: Oktoberfest - Recipe Ideas Hello Tony! This might answer your question a bit easier. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1993 14:04:09 -0500 (CDT) From: tony@spss.com (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570) Subject: oktoberfest recipe ideas Most German Oktoberfest beers have a starting gravity of 1.052 - 1.055, which puts them more in line with the AHA "Vienna" style. These beers are amber-colored (aim for 10L - 12L), malt-accented lagers. From the point of view of recipe formulation, you have the choice of using crystal malts, munich malt, or some combination. In their book, George and Laurie Fix present recipes using crystal malt. Depending on your setup and extract efficiency, for a 5- gallon brew you might use a grain bill such as the following: 8 - 9 pounds pilsner malt 6 oz crystal malt 10L 6 oz crystal malt 60L 6 oz crystal malt 120L The above grain bill specifies pilsner malt, and you should use the finest German or Belgian pilsner malt. Lacking that, use a good U.S. 2-row pale malt. The crystal malt blend gives the beer the requisite color, body, and sweetness. In subsequent articles and postings to HBD, George Fix has reported using mixes of DeWolf-Cosyns Cara-Vienne (20L) and Cara-Munich (80L) malts. In the first issue of Brewing Techniques, it appears that George Fix has settled on a mix of Cara-Vienne and Special B. Using the BRF program, the following grain bill should produce a color in the desired range: 9 pounds pilsner malt 1 pound Cara-Vienne (20L) 1.5 ounces Special B As an alternative to the above grain bills, one could explore the use of Munich malt, which should give color and malt flavor. As an example, consider the following grain bill: 5 pounds pilsner malt 4 pounds Munich malt 1 pound U.S. cara-pils 1/4 pound crystal malt 40L Note the high fraction of Munich malt in the grain bill. As U.S. Munich malt can be of variable quality, brewers have raised the concern that the resulting beer will suffer from grain harshness. However, with the availability of DeWolf-Cosyns Munich malt, as well as German Munich malts, surely such a recipe should be tried. For hops, use fine European Noble hops, and hop to 22 - 25 IBUs (or roughly 6 AAUs). As an example, the hop schedule might be: 0.85 ounces Tettnang (alpha=4.5) at 45 minutes until end of boil 1/2 ounce Styrian Goldings (alpha=4.9) at 30 minutes until end of boil 1/2 ounce Saaz (alpha=3) at 15 minutes until end of boil This style is not a bitter style, so total hopping is kept down. Nor are pronounced hop flavor or aroma desired, so the last hopping is 15 minutes before end of boil. Use a good lager yeast and proper fermentation temperatures. Wyeast "Bavarian" lager works very well. Ferment at 50 degrees F or so. Rack the beer to secondary, and lager for 4 to 8 weeks. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Regards, Luke --- FMail 0.94 * Origin: To see the point, is to miss it completely (3:635/563) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 910/1 915/1 970/201 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Area Zymurgy, Msg#67, 13-06-93 12:33:52 From: Rick Bastedo To: All Subject: Honey Lager Hi, All I thought I'd send out an update on the Honey Lager I started March 22. I let it lager in the basement 2 months, racked it 3 times then bottled. { The temp down there at the start was about 45 F, and it gradually warmed to about 55 F before I bottled. The recipe was : 10 lbs light malt extract 4 lbs Clover honey 1 oz Cascade hops 1 Pk Wyeast American Lager Yeast Yeast Nutrients O.G. was 1.08 F.G. is 1.008 Est. Alcohol 10 % (and it feels like it too) 0 0 \/ \/\/\/ This has only been in the bottle for 3 weeks and it already tastes incredible and has a GREAT head of foam, especially if poured too fast ! Anyway, this was my first experiment with honey, and now I know it won't be the last...maybe a strwberry Melomel next...Sounds yummy ! L8R and Great Brewing to All. --- Maximus 2.01wb * Origin: P A S C A L A L L E Y (1:343/52) SEEN-BY: 8/0 1 8 10/8 13/13 207/213 910/1 915/1 970/201 973/1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------