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Viewed from Centre of Eternity 615.552.5747
-+- The Merry Pranksters from Menlo Park -+-
10.1990.01.01.29
Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 29 of 33
by pH Imbalance
"Harvesting"
from
Marijuana Grower's Handbook
[Indoor/Greenhouse Edition]
Ed Rosenthal
Female marijuana goes through several stages of flowering. First a few
flowers appear. Then new flowers develop around the first ones. Flowers
also form at each leaf node along the branches and main stem. The buds
start to fill out so that the cluster becomes thick with pistils (the little
antennae) reaching out for pollen. The pistils are white, or sometimes
shaded pink or lavender. They look fresh and moist.
Some of the pistils begin to wither and turn red, purple, or even a light
brown. Just as the cluster looks like it's finished, a new wave of flower
growth appears, usually concentrated in a relatively bare spot. Successive
waves of flowers may appear for weeks.
The flowers close, and the calyxes start to swell. This is a false seed
pof; the flowers have not been fertilized and no seed can develop. These
pods are totally covered with resin glands. At maturity the glands should
sparkle like individual jewels in bright light. [pH:A thousand points of
light! Bush was on[to] something!] The individual glands should appear
clear under magnification. When the glands turn amber, the buds should be
harvested.
No bud should be picked before its time. Plants and varieties differ as
to maturation pattern. Some plants mature all at once, so that the whole
plant can be picked. Other varieties mature from the top down. One
respected researcher claimed "Most plants I've had mature bottom to top.
The main bud was the last to finish." Under lights, however, the top buds
mature first most of the time. Next, the buds nearest the top and so on.
The buds on the outside of the branch are likely to mature faster than inner
buds. It may take a month before the plant is totally picked. Picking the
plant a little at a time allows previously shaded portions of the plant to
receive light and grow.
A HARVEST PROBLEM
Some equatorial varieties need so much light to mature properly that it
is virtually impossible to supply the intensity using artificial light as
the only source. These plants grow flowers but the growth is loose and the
flowers take months to ripen. Sometimes the flowers "run". They grow very
sparsely along the stem instead of forming tight clusters. Increasing the
amount of light helps. One grower said that lowering the temperature in the
grow room encourages the plants to develop more compact growth.
Although these equatorial buds may not look great, and have less
commercial value, they may still be extremely potent and be genetically
coded for the soaring sativa high.
Usually, indoor flowers are not as compact as outdoor grown flowers.
They are every bit as poten though, perhaps more potent. Outdoors, plants
are subject to a harsh environment. Wind, rain, animals passing through,
plant and animal droppings all take their toll on THC glands. They are
punctured, rubbed off or even washed away. Indoors, plants are living in a
friendlier environment and almost all of the glands produced remain on the
plant. The more glands present, the stronger the grass.
MOLD
Dense buds are sometimes attacked by molds. These fast-growing,
non-green plants grow from spores which float in the air. They start to
grow when they come in contact with a conducive environment: high humidity,
low light and temperatures in the 60's. These conditions are most likely to
occur outdoors or ina greenhouse during harvest season, when the
temperatures are lower than during the summer and when there is less light
and higher humidity from the dense foliage. Any moisture or wetness is
easily trapped in the buds and the molds grow quickly, turning and beautiful
bug into a mush or slime overnight.
Indoors, molds also occur during harvest season, usually due to low light
conditions and too high a humidity.
There are several things that can be done to prevent molds, and to limit
the damage that they do. Molds are much less likely to grow when the
temperature is above their ideal conditions. By keeping the space in the
high 70's, their growth may be prevented. Since the spores float in the
air, they can be precipitated using a negative ion generator. This means
that there are fewer agents to create infections. Lowering the humidity by
using a dehumidifier or air vent stops the growth.
Once mold occurs in the space, the farmer should take action immediately.
The mold's growth can be stopped by raising temperature and lowering
humidity. IncreasiniB z0]]Æ`@▐
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