The Unsorted BBS Collection/thegreatunsorted.tar/thegreatunsorted/texts/txtfiles_misc/car_tint.txt

Text File | 1995-07-10 | 4KB | 75 lines

> This question may not be entirely relevant to this newsgroup, but surely
> someone has some experience with window tint.  I want to put a fairly dark
> window tint on my car's rear windows, but know it is a tricky job to get
> right.  Should I get pre-cut tint, or just cut my own out of a roll of bulk
> film?  I have a 1988 CRX and want to keep the interior as cool as possible
> this summer.
>
> Any advice out there????
>
First, I agree with the many responses that said "pay someone"
but even then, look for references from people you know. I've
done several myself, but had my Toyota done by a local shop.
It would take to long to discribe, but one window had to be redone
due to carelessness and I had to fight to get it done.

Now, if you really want to do it yourself (I did it due to lack
of funds, and it really looked great !) remember, it takes a long
time to do it right, you will probably do a window or two over.
Don't rush and stop when you are ready to put your fist through
the window. So here goes...

1. Clean the window thoroughly, a final cleaning with alcohol
and newspaper works good.
2. Scrape the entire surface of the window with a single edge
razor.
3. Clean the window with alcohol again, remember any lint or specs
on the window will look like hell under the tint.
4. On roll up windows, invest the time to remove the rubber or
fuzzies to allow access down into the door, you'll want the tint
to go below these so they don't hook the tint when your done.
5.pre-cut the tint to roughly one inch over-size all the way
around. (be sure to get the right side down or it's trash!)
6. make a solution of warm water and just a drop of dish soap
in a spray bottle.
7. soak the window (get over it, the door panels are going to get
wet, or cover them, don't scrimp on water!!)
8. Have an assistant help you remove the backing,spraying the soapy
solution where the backing and tint join will aid in it's separation
and reduce the risk of kinks in the tint.
9. spray the window again.(door windows should up at this time)
10. line the tint up about one inch away from the glass, then blow
lightly on the tint, it will begin to cling to the glass.
* now soak the tint, this will reduce squeege scratches.
11. On door windows squeege the bottom as far into the door as
possible, then roll the window down enough to give clear access to
all upper edges.
12 from the center squeege out all water and air, wetting the tint
frequently to prevent scratches.
13 the edges are the hardest part for me, using a brand new razor
knife (the kind with breakaway new blades work good) take a deep
breath and hold the knife like a pen using your birdie finger
on the edge of the glass as a guide. try to trim the glass in long
slow smooth strokes (oh yeah, don't breath) usually going back to
fix a cut just makes a bigger mess.
14 more water, more squeege, all bubbles must go!!!, if you screw up
tear it off try again when you calm down.

*** tip *some curve (very little) can be overcome by having your asst.
hold a hair dryer on the re-occuring bubble while you have it
flattened out with the squeege. If it comes back do it again. I spent
2 hours doing a back window with one piece of tint inch by inch, but
it looks great!

** tip 2 ** most cheap tint fades to bronze or blue, try to find
good quality (not GILA) tint and a garauntee then hope for the best.

** tip 3 ** you can tint over window defrosters, you may need the
hair dryer to get it perfect. BUT !!! do not trim the tint with
that razor knife across the copper strips of the defroster !!
You will cut the connection and break the defroster. it can
be fixed but let's not instead!!

PHEWW!! Now I remember why I paid $119 to do my truck when I was perfectly
able to do it myself. Good luck !!