The Unsorted BBS Collection/thegreatunsorted.tar/thegreatunsorted/texts/anarchy_text_a-l/terror.doc

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The Terrorist's Cookbook



Written BY: UNKNOWN AUTHOR



HEAVILY EDITED by: Kloey Detect of Five O



Special thanks to WordPerfect Corporation for their spelling

checker.......This file NEEDED IT!





(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)

SPECIAL THANX ALSO GOES OUT TO:



Nitro Glycerine: For providing the files!

Xpax           : For being patient while the cop was there!

The Producer   : For getting the files to me....

The Director   : For getting the files to me....

Mr.Camaro      : For his BIG EGO!!!

The Magician   : For ALL the Bernoulli carts he is gonna send!!





























This is a collection of many years worth of effort........this is

the original manuscript for a non-published work, from an unknown

author.....It was originally two LARGE files which had to be

merged and then HEAVILY EDITED, mostly the pictures, and then

spellchecked...This guy is a chemical genius but he could not

spell if his life depended on it....I have simply run a spell

check via WordPerfect 4.2, so there are probably more errors

which were not picked up...sorry...I hope you have the patience

to sit through this file, read it, then correct every little

error....It is not like I am submitting it or anything...!!!!!











This file is dedicated To Kathie & KiKi

.....Wherever you both may be.....











.PN





THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK

                ________________________





1.0    INTRODUCTION



     Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is

proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook.  First and

foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities

for any misuse of the information presented in this publication.  The purpose

of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people in this

and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and social goals.

The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can usually be

carried out by a terrorist with minimal equipment.  This makes one all the more

frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this information,

and use it against anyone.  The processes and techniques herein SHOULD NOT BE

CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!  SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH COULD OCCUR FROM

ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION.  THIS IS MERELY

FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!!



Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone has some

idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is

the reason for the existence of this publication.



.PA

1.1         Table of Contents

      _________________



2.0   BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS

2.01    Black Powder

2.02    Pyrodex

2.03    Rocket Engine Powder

2.04    Rifle/Shotgun Powder

2.05    Flash Powder

2.06    Ammonium Nitrate

2.1   ACQUIRING CHEMICALS

2.11    Techniques for Picking Locks

2.2   LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY

2.3   PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS

2.31    Nitric Acid

2.32        Sulfuric Acid

2.33    Ammonium Nitrate



3.0   EXPLOSIVE RECIPES

3.01    Explosive Theory

3.1   IMPACT EXPLOSIVES

3.11    Ammonium Triiodide Crystals

3.12    Mercury Fulminate

3.13    Nitroglycerine

3.14     Picrates

3.2   LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES

3.21    Black Powder

3.22    Nitrocellulose

3.23    Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures

3.24     Perchlorates

3.3   HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES

3.31    R.D.X. (Cyclonite)

3.32    Ammonium Nitrate

3.33    ANFOS

3.34    T.N.T.

3.35    Potassium Chlorate

3.36    Dynamite

3.37    Nitrostarch Explosives

3.38    Picric Acid

3.39    Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)

3.40     Nitrogen Trichloride

3.41     Lead Azide

3.5   OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"

3.51    Thermit

3.52    Molotov Cocktails

3.53    Chemical Fire Bottle

3.54    Bottled Gas Explosives



4.0   USING EXPLOSIVES

4.1   SAFETY

4.2   IGNITION DEVICES

4.21    Fuse Ignition

4.22    Impact Ignition

4.23    Electrical Ignition

4.24    Electro - Mechanical Ignition

4.241    Mercury Switches

4.242      Tripwire Switches

4.243    Radio Control Detonators

4.3   DELAYS

4.31    Fuse Delays

4.32    Timer Delays

4.33    Chemical Delays

4.4   EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS

4.41     Paper Containers

4.42    Metal Containers

4.43    Glass Containers

4.44    Plastic Containers

4.5   ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES

4.51     Shaped Charges

4.52    Tube Explosives

4.53     Atomized Particle Explosions

4.54     Lightbulb Bombs

4.55    Book Bombs

4.56    Phone Bombs



5.0   SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS

5.1   PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)

5.11     Bow and Crossbow Ammunition

5.12    Blowgun Ammunition

5.13    Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition

5.2   PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)

5.21    Handgun Ammunition

5.22    Shotguns

5.3   PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS)

5.31    .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition

5.32     .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition



6.0   ROCKETS AND CANNONS

6.1   ROCKETS

6.11    Basic Rocket-Bomb

6.12    Long Range Rocket-Bomb

6.13    Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs

6.2   CANNONS

6.21     Basic Pipe Cannon

6.22    Rocket-Firing Cannon



7.0   PYROTECHNICA ERRATA

7.1    Smoke Bombs

7.2    Colored Flames

7.3    Tear Gas

7.4    Fireworks

7.41     Firecrackers

7.42     Skyrockets

7.43     Roman Candles



8.0   LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION



9.0   CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS



10.   USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY



11.0  ABOUT THE AUTHOR









2.0   BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS



     Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and

a pharmacy.  These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in

order to purchase explosive material.  All that one has to do is know something

about the non-explosive uses of the materials.    Black powder, for example,

is used in blackpowder firearms.  It comes in varying "grades", with each

different grade being a slightly different size.  The grade of black powder

depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of

powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon.  The rule is:

the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.





2.01   BLACK POWDER





     Black powder is generally available in three grades.  As stated before,

the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns.  Burn rate is extremely

important in bombs.  Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in

a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is

desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along

with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in.  Generally,

the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable.  However, the other

grades and uses are listed below:



     GRADE        BORE WIDTH         EXAMPLE OF GUN

     _____        __________         ______________



     F            .50 or greater         model cannon; some rifles

     FF         .36 - .50         large pistols; small rifles

     FFF        .36 or smaller         pistols; derringers





     The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has

more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front.  The larger

grades also have uses which will be discussed later.  The price range of

black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00.  The price is not affected

by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer

grade of powder.  The major problems with black powder are that it can be

ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to

absorb moisture from the air.  To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic

spoon and a wooden salad bowl.    Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would

apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes

or circles, but not too hard.  It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine

as flour.  The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes

to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1

foot by 4 inch radius pipe.  Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can

own black powder firearms in America.







2.02    PYRODEX





     Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder.  It comes

in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound.  However, a one pound

container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black

powder.  It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and

it is considerably safer and more reliable.  This is because it will

not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined

to absorb moisture.  It costs about $10.00 per pound.  It can be crushed in the

same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried.







2.03        ROCKET ENGINE POWDER







     One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry.  Estes is

the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines.    Rocket engines are

composed of a single large grain of propellant.  This grain is surrounded by

a fairly heavy cardboard tubing.  One gets the propellant by slitting the tube

lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll.    When this is done, the

grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed.  This is

usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally

hard, and must be crushed to be used.  By gripping the grain on the widest

setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag,

the powder will not break apart and shatter all over.  This should be done to

all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder.

Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly

powerful D engines.  The larger the engine, the more expensive.  D engines come

in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package.  Rocket engines are

perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they

can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder.







2.04       RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER





     Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle

standpoint.  They are both nitrocellulose based propellants.  They will be

referred to as gunpowder in all future references.  Gunpowder is made by the

action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton.  This material is

then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size.  When

dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of

black powder.  Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly

compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder

burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure.

Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants

is not necessary for gunpowder.  Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any

idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the

U.S.





2.05       FLASH POWDER





     Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various

oxidizers.  It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated

with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed.    It is

sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use.  It is very

finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow.  The

fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators.  It burns

very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white "flash",

hence its name.  It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00.    It is sold

in magic shops and theatre supply stores.





2.06       AMMONIUM NITRATE





     Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as

a commercial "safety explosive"  It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite

with a match.  It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is

touching it.  It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation

will be explained later)  it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high

explosive.  Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of

nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity.  Ammonium nitrate is used in the

'Cold-Paks' or 'Instant Cold', available in most drug stores.  The 'Cold Paks'

consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the

ammonium nitrate.  To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the

outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in

a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it

tends to absorb water from the air.  It is also the main ingredient in many

fertilizers.







2.1    ACQUIRING CHEMICALS





     The first section deals with getting chemicals legally.  This section

deals with "procuring" them.  The best place to steal chemicals is a college.

Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the

labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms.  Evening is the best time to enter

lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and

most of the labs will still be unlocked.  One simply takes a bookbag, wears

a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman.  If anyone

asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking

for the  polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department

other than the one they are in.  One can usually find out where the various

labs and  departments in a building are by calling the university.  There

are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as

placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back

exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour.  Also, before

this is done, terrorists check for security systems.  If one just walks into a

lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the

cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never

know what happened.  It is also a good idea to observe the building that one

plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the

actual theft is done.  This is advisable since the would-be thief should know

when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings.  Of course, if

none of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a

rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another

person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an

odd hour.







2.11     TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS







     If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's

most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer.  There are

unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these

methods.  The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks.

These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire.  If the door to a lab is locked,

but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities.  The rule

here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door.  There are several

devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall.  Dental

tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket-

knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade.  The way that all these

tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch

out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open.  This is done by sliding

whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out

from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum

can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the ragged ends of the

can.  Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a

single long rectangle.    This should then be cut into inch wide strips.    Fold the

strips in 1/4 inch increments (1).  One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4

inch wide strip of aluminum.  This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape,

or a U-shape.  This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this:





 (1)



    _________________________________________________________    v

1/4    |_______________________________________________________|    |

1/4    |_______________________________________________________|    | 1 inch

1/4    |_______________________________________________________|    |

1/4    |_______________________________________________________|    |

                         ^



     Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of

aluminum.  This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped

device that looks like this:





              __________________________________________

             /|________________________________________|

            | |

            | |      L-shaped

            | |

             | |

            | |

            |_|







            _____________________________

             /|___________________________|

             | |

             | |     J-shaped

             | |

             | |_________

              \|_______|







               _____________________

              /|___________________|

             | |

             | |

             | |     U-shaped

             | |

             | |

             | |

            | |____________________

              \|___________________|





     All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and

pull the latch out of its hole.  The folds in the lockpicks will be between

the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made

properly.





2.2     LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY



     Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets,

and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous

compounds.  A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some

money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.







Chemical           Used In                  Available at

________         _______                 ____________



_____________________________________________________________________________

alcohol, ethyl       *     alcoholic beverages           liquor stores

            solvents (95% min. for both)      hardware stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

ammonia +        CLEAR household           supermarkets,

            ammonia                7 - Eleven

_____________________________________________________________________________

ammonium           instant-cold               drug stores,

nitrate           paks, fertilizers           medical supply stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

nitrous oxide           pressurizing               party supply stores

            drinks and whip cream

_____________________________________________________________________________

magnesium        firestarters            surplus stores,

                            camping stores

____________________________________________________________________________

lecithin           vitamin?             pharmacies, drug

                            stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

mineral oil         cooking, laxative             supermarket,

                          drug store

_____________________________________________________________________________

mercury     @           mercury thermometers         supermarkets,

                          hardware stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

sulfuric acid           uncharged car            automotive stores

            batteries

_____________________________________________________________________________

glycerine        ?                   pharmacies, drug

                          stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

sulfur             gardening                   gardening store,

                          hardware stores?

_____________________________________________________________________________

charcoal           charcoal grills,           supermarkets

            gardening                  gardening stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

sodium nitrate        fertilizer              gardening store

_____________________________________________________________________________

cellulose        first aid              drug stores,

(cotton)                         medical supply stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

strontium nitrate     road flares             surplus stores,

                          auto stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

fuel oil           kerosene stoves             surplus stores,

(kerosene)                      camping stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

bottled gas         propane stoves               surplus stores,

                          camping stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

potassium permanganate       water purification           purification plants

_____________________________________________________________________________

hexamine or          hexamine stoves            surplus stores

methenamine         (camping)                   (camping stores?)

_____________________________________________________________________________

nitric acid ^           cleaning printing           printing shops

            plates               photography stores?

_____________________________________________________________________________

iodine       &          first aid             drug stores

_____________________________________________________________________________

sodium perchlorate  solidox pellets          hardware stores

            for cutting torches

_____________________________________________________________________________



notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a

       solvent.  Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol

       must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury

       fulminate.  Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.





     + Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms.  The

       pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear

       ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.





     @ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately.  They

       may be hard to find in most stores.  Mercury is also used in

       mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores.

       Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the

       thermometer or mercury switch until used.  It gives off mercury

       vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled.  For this reason,

       it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it

       outdoors.  Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will

       help prevent this.





     ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays.    It is usually

       stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later

       section.  A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.





     & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline

       form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals.

       To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's

       prescription, but this can be expensive.  Once again, theft is the

       means that terrorists result to.



2.3     PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS





2.31    NITRIC ACID





     There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for

explosives.  One method by which it could be made will be presented.  Once

again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!





Materials:              Equipment

__________              _________



sodium nitrate              adjustable heat source

   or

potassium nitrate        retort



distilled water           ice bath



concentrated            stirring rod

sulfuric acid

                  collecting flask with stopper







1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.



2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium

nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly.  If it all does not dissolve,

carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.



3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the

   collecting flask in the ice bath.



4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat.  Continue heating until liquid

   begins to come out of the end of the retort.  The liquid that forms is nitric

   acid.  Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry,

   or until no more nitric acid is forming.  CAUTION: If the acid is headed too

   strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed.  This

   can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may

   explode.  It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get

   away from it.





     Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder,

simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur

and charcoal.  To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to

dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water.  Filter

the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the

liquid that pours through is clear.  The charcoal and sulfur in black powder

are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to

evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.







2.32     SULFURIC ACID



     Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or

industrial plant.  However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery.

A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car

battery and pour the acid into a glass container.  There would probably be

pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed,

either by boiling or filtration.  The concentration of the sulfuric acid can

also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster

than clean motor oil.





2.33     AMMONIUM NITRATE



     Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order

explosive.  It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large

flask in an ice bath.  Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask

and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed.  After the materials have

stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place

until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated.

There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate.  It must

be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from

the air.  The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY

gently to drive off the remaining water.





3.0    EXPLOSIVE RECIPES



     Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE

ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN.  IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS

TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO.  LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT

OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.



     These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual

could conceivably produce the materials described.  The methods here are usually

scaled-down industrial procedures.









3.01     EXPLOSIVE THEORY



     An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,

undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation.  This process releases energy that

is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down

into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece

of material.  Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are

displaced by the expanding gasses.  This expansion occurs at a speed greater

than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs.  This explains the

mechanics behind an explosion.    Explosives occur in several forms: high-order

explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which

may do both.



     High order explosives detonate.  A detonation occurs only in a high

order explosive.  Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes

through a block of the high explosive material.  The shockwave breaks apart

the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately

equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material.  In a high

explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks

apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses.

T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives.



     Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.

when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and

gaseous products.  Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under

pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder,

which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they

are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn

much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions.

Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order

explosives.



     Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field.    Some of them, such as

mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive.  They are

usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low

explosives.  Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they

are much more sensitive.  Still others merely burn, but when they are confined,

they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave.

Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose,

a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell.  But, they are also frequently

used to ignite a low order explosive;  the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by

the detonation of its primer.





3.1    IMPACT EXPLOSIVES



     Impact explosives are often used as primers.  Of the ones discussed

here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium

triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no

light.    Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even

the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives.





3.11       AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS



     Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals

that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they

are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine.  Such

crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks

across them.  Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps

and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or

heated.  Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine

gas appears about the detonation site.    Whatever the unfortunate surface that

the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine

in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive.  It

leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts.

Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the

ground and stains things there also.  Touching iodine leaves brown stains on

the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously

washed off.  While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist,

a vandal could utilize them in damaging property.  Or, a terrorist could throw

several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly

injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that

not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion.  Ammonium triiodide

crystals could be produced in the following manner:



     Materials              Equipment

     _________              _________



     iodine crystals      funnel and filter paper



              paper towels

     clear ammonia

     (ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars

      for the suicidal)





1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars.  The jars

   must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.



2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.



3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel.

   The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic

   chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle

   is formed.  Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved

   side.  Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone

   into the funnel.



4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the

   solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.



5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar

   to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.



6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper,

   and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour.  Make sure that

   they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could

   well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about

   eight chunks.



7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of

   duct tape.  Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape

   together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself.

   Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and

   store the crystals in a cool dry safe place.  They have a shelf life of

   about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be

   thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which

   gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on.  One

   possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight

   containers.    To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them

   where they will be stepped on or crushed.





3.12      MERCURY FULMINATE





     Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating

compounds.  It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it

of infinite value to a terrorist.  Even the action of dropping a crystal of

the fulminate causes it to explode.  A person making this material would

probably use the following procedure:





     MATERIALS             EQUIPMENT

     _________             _________



     mercury (5 g)         glass stirring rod



     concentrated nitric      100 ml beaker (2)

     acid (35 ml)

                  adjustable heat

     ethyl alcohol (30 ml)     source



     distilled water          blue litmus paper



                  funnel and filter paper



1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,

   using the glass rod.



2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the

   solution turns green and boils.



3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully

    add all of the contents of the first beaker to it.    Red and/or brown fumes

   should appear.  These fumes are toxic and flammable.



4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that

   the reaction is near completion.  After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the

   distilled water to the solution.



5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid

   solution.  Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive

   and toxic.



6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess

   acid as possible.  Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are

   neutral.   This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the

   wet crystals



7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from

   any explosive or flammable material.





     This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury

cannot be weighed.  Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of

ethanol to every one volume of mercury.







3.13       NITROGLYCERINE



     Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not

the most sensitive.  Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.

Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to

make the stuff.  When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the

all-to-frequent factory explosions.  Usually, as soon as it is made, it is

converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite.  An idiot who attempts

to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:





     MATERIAL            EQUIPMENT

     ________            _________



     distilled water          eye-dropper



     table salt           100 ml beaker



     sodium bicarbonate      200-300 ml beakers (2)



     concentrated nitric      ice bath container

     acid (13 ml)        ( a plastic bucket serves well )



     concentrated sulfuric     centigrade thermometer

     acid (39 ml)



     glycerine              blue litmus paper





1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.



2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about

   a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate

   dissolves.  Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some

   remains undissolved.



3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and

   adding table salt.  This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall

   temperature.



4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated

   nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker.    Be sure that the beaker will not spill

   into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker

   when more materials are added to it.  Be sure to have a large enough ice bath

   container to add more ice.  Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20

   degrees centigrade or less.



5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the

   39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid.  Mix the two acids

   together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade.  It is a good

   idea to start another ice bath to do this.



6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop

   at a time.  Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed

   acids and glycerine meet.  DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30

   DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN

   LIKE HELL!!!  The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the

   temperature will immediately begin to rise.    Add glycerine until there is a

   thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids.  It is always safest to

   make any explosive in small quantities.



7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration,

   adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution

   in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade.  Usually, the

   nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the

   concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.



8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30

   degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine

   and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1.  The

   nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid

   solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the

   acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.



9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it

   into the beaker in step 2.  The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate

   much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less

   likely to explode for no reason, which it can do.  Test the nitroglycerine

   with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue.  Repeat this step if

   necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.



10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean

    container in a safe place.    The best place to store nitroglycerine is

    far away from anything living, or from anything of any value.

    Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored

    in a secure cool place.





3.14     PICRATES



     Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or

trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they

are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact.  By mixing picric acid with

metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the

water, metal picrates can be formed.  Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it,

and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range

molarity.  (about 6-9 M)  This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive,

and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.



3.2     LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES



     There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in stores

and used in explosive devices.    However, it is possible that a wise gun store

owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual.  Such

an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order

explosives.





3.21     BLACK POWDER





     First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first

used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century.  It is very simple to make,

but it is not very powerful or safe.  Only about 50% of black powder is

converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine

burned particles.  Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by

static electricity.  This is very bad, and it means that the material must be

made with wooden or clay tools.  Anyway, a misguided individual could

manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:





     MATERIALS             EQUIPMENT

     _________             _________



     potassium              clay grinding bowl

     nitrate (75 g)          and clay grinder



       or              or



     sodium               wooden salad bowl

     nitrate (75 g)          and wooden spoon



     sulfur (10 g)         plastic bags (3)



     charcoal (15 g)          300-500 ml beaker (1)



     distilled water          coffee pot or heat source







1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl

   and grind it to a very fine powder.    Do this to all of the potassium or

   sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.



2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a

   separate plastic bag.



3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and

    add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.



4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium

   nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes.  Do this until there is no

   more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.



5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.    Sunlight

   is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it

   is hot enough to evaporate the water.



6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container.

   Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper.  Never store black

   powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static

   electricity.







3.22     NITROCELLULOSE



     Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton".  It is more

stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas.  It

also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.

Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following

procedure:





     MATERIALS              EQUIPMENT

     _________              _________



     cotton    (cellulose)    two (2) 200-300 ml beakers



     concentrated        funnel and filter paper

     nitric acid

                  blue litmus paper

     concentrated

     sulfuric acid



     distilled water



1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker.  Add to this

   10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.



2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3

   minutes.



3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water

   to wash it in.



4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.



5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to

   be dried and stored.





3.23     FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES



     There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can

be produced by a misguided individual in his own home.    Some are very effective

and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective.  A list of working

fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each

compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness.  A rough estimate will be

given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:







oxodizer, % by weight           fuel, % by weight    speed #    notes

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium chlorate 67%      sulfur 33%          5    friction/

                                impact sensitive

                                 rather unstable

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium chlorate 50%      sugar 35%              5     fairly slow

                  charcoal 15%              burning;

                                unstable

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium chlorate 50%      sulfur 25%          8    extremely

                  magnesium or              unstable!

                  aluminum dust 25%

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium chlorate 67%      magnesium or            8      unstable

                  aluminum dust 33%

________________________________________________________________________________

 sodium nitrate 65%          magnesium dust 30%          ?     unpredictable

                  sulfur 5%             burn rate

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium permanganate 60%    glycerine 40%            4      delay before

                                ignition depends

 WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!!       upon grain size

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium permanganate 67%    sulfur 33%         5     unstable

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium permangenate 60%    sulfur 20%         5     unstable

                  magnesium or

                  aluminum dust 20%

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium permanganate 50%    sugar 50%             3          ?

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium nitrate 75%        charcoal 15%           7     this is

                  sulfur 10%            black powder!

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium nitrate 60%        powdered iron             1       burns very hot

                 or

                  magnesium 40%

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium chlorate 75%        phosphorus        8     used to make

                  sesquisulfide 25%           strike-anywhere

                                matches

________________________________________________________________________________

 ammonium perchlorate 70%     aluminum dust 30%      6     solid fuel for

                  + small amount of            space shuttle

                  iron oxide

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium perchlorate 67%     magnesium or           10      flash powder

(sodium perchlorate)          aluminum dust 33%

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium perchlorate 60%    magnesium or          8    alternate

(sodium perchlorate)          aluminum dust 20%            flash powder

                  sulfur 20%

________________________________________________________________________________

 barium nitrate 30%        aluminum dust 30%       9     alternate

potassium perchlorate 30%                    flash powder

________________________________________________________________________________

 barium peroxide 90%          magnesium dust 5%      10    alternate

                  aluminum dust 5%             flash powder

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium perchlorate 50%     sulfur 25%        8     slightly

                  magnesium or              unstable

                   aluminum dust 25%

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium chlorate 67%      red phosphorus 27%         7       very

calcium carbonate 3%          sulfur 3%             unstable!

                                impact sensitive

 ________________________________________________________________________________



 potassium permanganate 50%    powdered sugar 25%        7      unstable;

                  aluminum or             ignites if

                  magnesium dust 25%           it gets wet!

________________________________________________________________________________

 potassium chlorate 75%      charcoal dust 15%        6      unstable

                  sulfur 10%

________________________________________________________________________________





NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium

      perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.



     The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns

AFTER ignition.  Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of

burning.



     As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures

that can be made at home.  By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),

different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of



the mixture.





3.24    PERCHLORATES



     As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid

will become a low order explosive.  Metals, however, such as potassium or

sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders.    Some materials that can

be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust.  To produce potassium or sodium

perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or

potassium hydroxide.  It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated

with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react

explosively when contacted by the acid.  Solutions of sodium or potassium

hydroxide are ideal.





3.3    HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES



     High order explosives can be made in the home without too much

difficulty.  The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high

explosive.  Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is

made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )

molecules.  T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a

material.  When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the

nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in

a matter of microseconds.  This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based

explosives.  Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,

several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed.







3.31     R.D.X.



     R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with

plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives.  This is

because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to

detonate.  It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too

severe shock.  It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine,

but it is still too sensitive to be used alone.  R.D.X. can be made by the

surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter.    It is much easier to make in the

home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium

nitrate.





     MATERIALS              EQUIPMENT

     _________              _________



     hexamine              500 ml beaker

       or

     methenamine           glass stirring rod

     fuel tablets (50 g)

                  funnel and filter paper

     concentrated

     nitric acid (550 ml)     ice bath container

                  (plastic bucket)

     distilled water

                  centigrade thermometer

     table salt

                  blue litmus paper

     ice



     ammonium nitrate



1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully

    pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.



2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of

   the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker.  The temperature will rise, and it

   must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result.

   Stir the mixture.



3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice

   and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath.  Or, ammonium

   nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is

   put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below

   zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes



4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice.  Shake and stir the mixture,

   and allow it to melt.  Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and

   dispose of the corrosive liquid.



5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water.  Filter

   the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper.  Repeat steps 4 and 5

   until the litmus paper remains blue.  This will make the crystals more stable

   and safe.



6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use.    Allow them to dry completely

   using them.    R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.



7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1%

   mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin.  Kneed these material together in a plastic

   bag.  This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.



8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.

   it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.



9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should

   be possible to desensitize the R.D.X., and increase its power, since ammonium

   nitrate is very insensitive and powerful.  Soduim or potassium nitrate could

   also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X.



10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a

    density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.







3.32      AMMONIUM NITRATE



     Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap-

hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site,

since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive

to shock and heat.  A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a

drug store or medical supply store.  The major disadvantage with ammonium

nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it.  A rather

powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge.  The

diagram below will explain.



      _________________________________________

      |      |                      |

  ________|      |                  |

     |          | T.N.T.|     ammonium nitrate          |

     |primer |booster|                    |

     |_______|         |                    |

      |      |                      |

      |_______|_______________________________|







     The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending

a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.





3.33     ANFOS



     ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution.  An ANFO

solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick

up water vapor from the air.  This results in the explosive failing to detonate

when such an attempt is made.  This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight)

ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene.  The kerosene keeps the ammonium

nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air.  An ANFO also requires a large

shockwave to set it off.





3.34       T.N.T.



     T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high

explosive.  Dynamite, of course, was the first.  It is certainly the best known

high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons.  It is

the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well known.

In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is designed

to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the product.  A

terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one-step method.

The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong (fuming)

sulfuric acid.    Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very strong (fuming)

nitric acid in an ice bath.  Cold water is added the solution, and it is

filtered.





3.35     POTASSIUM CHLORATE





     Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be

obtained from labs.  If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of

vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the

material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder.  It must,

however, be confined to detonate it in this manner.  The procedure for making

such an explosive is outlined below:





     MATERIALS              EQUIPMENT

     _________              _________





     potassium chlorate      zip-lock plastic bag

     (9 parts, by volume)



     petroleum jelly          clay grinding bowl

     (vaseline)              or

     (1 part, by volume)      wooden bowl and wooden spoon







1)  Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly,

    until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder.  The finer that it is

    powdered, the faster (better)  it will detonate.



2)  Place the powder into the plastic bag.  Put the petroleum jelly into the

    plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e.

    put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.



3)  Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium

    chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob.  If necessary,

    add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.



4)  The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to

    greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive.    This reaction, however,

    is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.







3.36     DYNAMITE





     The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.

Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine.  It was

made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock.  A misguided

individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act)

would immediately convert it to dynamite.  This can be done by adding various

materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust.  The sawdust holds a large

weight of nitroglycerine per volume.  Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate

could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase

the power.  But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.





3.37     NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES





     Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful.  All

that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated nitric

and sulfuric acids.  10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of

concentrated nitric acid.  To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch.  Cold

water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out.

Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are

more readily detonated.





3.38     PICRIC ACID





     Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military

explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less

sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T.  It another explosive that is fairly simple

to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric

acids.    Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab

manuals, and is easy to follow.  The main problem with picric acid is its

tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as

potassium picrate.  For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such

as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D.  A social deviant would probably

use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.















     MATERIALS                   EQUIPMENT

     _________                   _________



     phenol (9.5 g)               500 ml flask



     concentrated              adjustable heat source

     sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)

                   1000 ml beaker

     concentrated nitric           or other container

     acid (38 ml)             suitable for boiling in



     distilled water           filter paper

                   and funnel



                   glass stirring rod



1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5

   ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.



2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and

   bring the water to a gentle boil.



3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling

   water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty

   minutes.  After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for

   about five minutes.



4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to

   cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13,

   steps 3-4.  Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice

   bath.  Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the

   mixture constantly.    A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur.  When

   the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.



5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap

   water.  Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat

   it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.



6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice

   bath until it is cold.



7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution

   through the filter paper in the funnel.  Collect the liquid and dispose of it

   in a safe place, since it is corrosive.



8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the

   filter paper in the flask.  Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.



9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.



10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will

    react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode

    spontaneously.





3.39     AMMONIUM PICRATE





     Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive.

It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than that

required to detonate ammonium nitrate.    It is much safer than picric acid, since

it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal

containers.  It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia.

All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container and

dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water.  Add clear household ammonia in

excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate.  The powder remaining should

be ammonium picrate.





3.40   NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE





     Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow

liquid.  It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or

when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark.  It is fairly simple to

produce.





1)  In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water.

    Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it

    remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.



2)  Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric

    acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and glass

    pipe.



3)  Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the

    beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers

    together.  Gently heat the bottom beaker.  When this is done, oily yellow

    droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down

    to the bottom.  At this time, remove the heat source immediately.



    Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate

    solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires

    timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.



    The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently

    heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia.  Place the glass tubes

    from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating

    flask in another flask that contains water.



4)  Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately,

    since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.





3.41     LEAD AZIDE



     Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for

other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive

explosive.  It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it

is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap.  It is

simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured.



     By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate

beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state.  Mix the two beakers

together, and apply a gentle heat.  Add an excess of the lead acetate

solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the

beaker stops forming.  Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in

hot water.  The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety.



     If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put

lead metal in it.  Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.





3.5    OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"





     The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can

be used to destroy property by fire.  Although none of the materials presented

here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results.





3.51     THERMIT





     Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous

amounts of heat.  It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react

nearly as readily.  It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely

powdered.  When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from

the iron oxide.  This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a

combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C.  This is half the heat produced by

an atomic weapon.  It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited,

it is one of the most effective firestarters around.





     MATERIALS



     _________



     powdered aluminum (10 g)



     powdered iron oxide (10 g)





1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.  Simply

   mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as

   possible.  The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and

   be made in greater or lesser amounts.



2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of

   potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid

   on it.  This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33.  The

   other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip.    Finally, by

   using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture

   can be ignited.







3.52     MOLOTOV COCKTAILS





     First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now

exclusively used by terrorists worldwide.  They are extremely simple to make, and

can produce devastating results.  By taking any highly flammable material, such

as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid,

turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass

bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb.    After putting the flammable

liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid

in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly.  Then, wrap some of the cloth

around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to

light.    Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle.    If the burning cloth

does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle

will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame.

Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more

volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition.  A mixture

such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,

and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish.  A mixture such as this

must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown







3.53     CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE



     The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail.  Rather

than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best

a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very

hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate.    When the

container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the

paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar.  The paper, when struck by the

acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline.  The chance

of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if

there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.













     MATERIALS                   EQUIPMENT

     _________                   _________





     potassium chlorate           glass bottle

     (2 teaspoons)              (12 oz.)



     sugar (2 teaspoons)           cap for bottle,

                   with plastic inside



     concentrated             cooking pan with raised

     sulfuric acid (4 oz.)        edges



     gasoline (8 oz.)             paper towels



                   glass or plastic cup

                   and spoon





1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure

   that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage.  If the

   acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until

   a cap that the acid does not eat through is found.  A glass top is excellent.



2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.



3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle.

   Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on

   the bottle.    Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water.  Set it aside

   to dry.



4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of

   sugar into the glass or plastic cup.  Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water,

   or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.



5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges.  Fold

   the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium

   chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet.  Allow the towel to

   dry.



6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing

   the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture.  Wrap the paper towel around the

   bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places.  Store the bottle

   in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.



7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct

   liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution

   on top.  The two solutions will not mix.  To use the chemical fire bottle,

   simply throw it at any hard surface.



8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH

   COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE,

   CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.



9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle,

   and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it.    The paper towel should

   immediately burst into a white flame.







3.54     BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES





     Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane

stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion.  To

make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be

to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other

gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run.  Depending on the fuel used, and

on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to

the point of bursting the container in about five minutes.  In theory, the gas

would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large

fireball and explosion.  Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container



often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting.  By

using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition

are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished.  Placing the

canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would

probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas,

since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the

gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it.  Nitrous oxide,

hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely.







4.0    USING EXPLOSIVES





     Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to

apply them.  Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism,

to murder.  NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER

IN PART OR IN FULL!  DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT!

     The first step that a person that would use explosive would take would

be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had to

be done.  Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with.  He would

also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine where

the best placement for it would be.  Then, it would be necessary to see if the

device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or moved.

Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive device.

These are some of the topics covered in the next section.





4.1    SAFETY



     There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device.  One can only speak

in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.

4.2    IGNITION DEVICES





     There are many ways to ignite explosive devices.  There is the classic

'light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run' approach, and there are sensitive

mercury switches, and many things in between.  Generally, electrical detonation

systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more

appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical

detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught.  A device

with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide.







4.21     FUSE IGNITION





     The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite

type of simple ignition system.  By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in

a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition.  Modern waterproof fuse is

extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch.  It is

available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for

a nine-foot length.  Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because

of its simplicity.  All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter.

     Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses

fuse ignition, would be very impracticle.  If a grenade ignition system can be

acquired, by all means, it is the most effective.  But, since such things do not

just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does

not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity.

One such method is described below:





     MATERIALS

     _________



     strike-on-cover type matches



     electrical tape or duct tape



     waterproof fuse



1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a

   6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it.  With a stopwatch, press the

   start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when

   the fuse reaches its end.  Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and

   you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch.  This will be shown

   below:



     Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time

     of combustion is 20 seconds.







     20 seconds

     __________  = 2.5 seconds per inch.

     8 inches





     If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired

      time by the number of seconds per inch:



     10 seconds

     ___________________ = 4 inches

     2.5 seconds / inch



NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER.  SOME FUSE,

      AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE.  ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA

      INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!





2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is

   to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and

   cut it off.



3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case.  Do not

   pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard

   base.  Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one

   to make a second igniter.



4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches

   touching the very end of the fuse.  Tape them there securely, making sure not

   to put tape over the match heads.  Make sure they are very secure by pulling

   on them at the base of the assembly.  They should not be able to move.



5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making

   sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces

   the match heads.  Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches.

   Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches.    Leave

   enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.







.PA

      _____________________

      \               /

       \               /  ------ match book cover

        \               /

         |          M|f|M ---|------- match head

         |          A|u|A       |

         |          T|s|T      |

         |          C|e|C      |

         |tapeH|f|Htape|

         |           |u|     |

         |#####|s|#####|-------- striking paper

         |#####|e|#####|

         \       |f|        /

          \    |u|       /

           \   |s|     /

        \  |e|    /

        |ta|f|pe|

        |ta|u|pe|

           |s|

           |e|

              |f|

           |u|

           |s|

           |e|



     The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.

     The matches are taped to the fuse.  The striker will rub against the

     matcheads when the match book is pulled.



6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper.  It should pull the

   striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them.

   In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the

   burning match heads.







4.22     IMPACT IGNITION





     Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous

terrorist activities.  The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it

must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being

transported to the place where it is to be used.  This can be done by having a

removable impact initiator.

     The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory

made initiators or primers.  A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such

primer.  They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50.  To use such

a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on.  Black powder nipples

are also available in gun stores.  All that a person has to do is ask for a

package of nipples and the caps that fit them.    Nipples have a hole that goes

all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the

cap on.   A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:





            ________________

            |           |

        _     v      |

           | |        |

      ________| |^^^^^^^^|       |

      |      ___________|       |

      |    |            |

   no. 11     |_______|            |

   percussion        _______          | ------- threads for screwing

   cap here    |     |           |       nipple onto bomb

          |     |__________|      |

      |_______         |        |

           | |^^^^^^^^|         |

           |_|             |

              ^           |

          |           |

          |________________|







     When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into

whatever container is used to make the bomb out of.  The nipple is then screwed

into the hole so that it fits tightly.    Then, the cap can be carried and placed

on the bomb when it is to be thrown.  The cap should be bent a small amount

before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place.  The

only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must

strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off.  By attaching fins or a small

parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown,

should strike the ground on the primer, and explode.  Of course, a bomb with

mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it

strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person

carrying the bomb is bumped hard.





4.23     ELECTRICAL IGNITION





     Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and

most reliable form of ignition.  Electrical systems are ideal for demolition

work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught.  With two spools

of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe",

comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get

hurt.  With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device

will explode, within fractions of a second.  Detonation can be aborted in  less

than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or

if a police car chooses to roll by at the time.  The two best electrical igniters

are military squibs and model rocketry igniters.  Blasting caps for construction

also work well.  Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost

about $1.00 per pack.  All that need be done to use them is connect it to two

wires and run a current through them.  Military squibs are difficult to get,

but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run

through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame.    Military squibs

can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium

chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly.  Igniters can be used to set off black

powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order

explosive.





4.24     ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION





     Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of

mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically.    This type of

switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person

who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it

explodes.  Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed





4.241      Mercury Switches



     Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal

conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room

temperatures.  A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two

electrodes and a bead of mercury metal.  It is sealed because of mercury's nasty

habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors.  The diagram below may help to

explain a mercury switch.



             ______________

             A    /           \     B

      _______wire +______/__+        -           \

               \   ( Hg )  |     /

            \ _(_Hg_)__|____/

                |

                |

                 wire -

                |

                |

                |



     When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both

contacts, current flows through the switch.  If this particular switch was in

its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can

touch both contacts in the horizontal position.



             B

     If, however, it was in the   |  position, the drop of mercury would only

 touch the + contact on the A side.   A



Current, then could not flow, since the mercury does not reach both contacts

when the switch is in the verticle position.





     This type of switch is ideal to place by a door.  If it were placed in

the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door

would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape.

This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to

touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the

igniter or squib in an explosive device.  Imagine opening a door and having it

slammed in your face by an explosion.





4.242      Tripwire Switches





     A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap.  By placing a nearly

invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and

by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur.

If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a

tripwire to detonate a bomb.  The technique is simple.    By wrapping the tips of

a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them,

and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can

be made,  If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the

contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch.  When the

tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to

flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, which



would have the igniter or squib in it.    Current would flow between the contacts

to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it to explode.





            __________________________________

            \_foil___________________________/

        (0) --------------------------spring

 insert strip of  ------- _foil_____\_____________________

 wood with trip-     /___________\____________________\

 wire between foil

 contacts





Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since

the spring also conducts electricity.





4.243      Radio Control Detonators





     In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled

detonator to set off explosives.  With a good radio detonator, one can be

several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes,

in much the same way as an electrical switch.  The problem with radio detonators

is that they are rather costly.  However, there could possibly be a reason that

a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio

control) system and use it as a detonator.  If such an individual wanted to

devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store

or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy.  Taking it back to his/her abode,

all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the

motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the

elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the

squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor.    The

device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully

charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part

that used to move parts before the device became a detonator).







4.3    DELAYS





     A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is

set up to the time that it explodes.  A regular fuse is a delay, but it would

cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse.  This section deals with

the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to

be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it

does.







4.31     FUSE DELAYS





     It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for

ignition.  Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette.  An average

cigarette burns for about 8 minutes.  The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating,

the slower the cigarette burns.  Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker

than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to

go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked.  Depending on the wind or draft in

a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of a

fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough oxygen

to burn.  People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses will often

test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure they stay lit,

and to see how long it will burn.  Once a cigarettes burn rate is determined, it

is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way through a cigarette

with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the fuse for a device in the

hole formed.







.PA



           |=|

           | | ---------- filter

           | |

           |_|

           | |

           |o| ---------- hole for fuse

 cigarette ------------     | |

           | |

           | |

           | |

           | |

           | |

           | |

           | |

           | |

           |_| ---------- light this end





     A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet

of paper.  Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with

powdered charcoal.  Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a

fuse.  Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused

with lighter fluid before it is lit.  Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with

powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay.  A chain of

charcoal briquettes can be used to delay a fuse by merely lining up a few bricks

of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the first

brick.    Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply

store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay.  By wrapping the fuse about

the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible.

Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home.  By

dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling

water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton

string, a slow-burning fuse can be made.  After the soaked string dries, it

must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device.  Sometimes, the end of the

slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or

gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-burning

fuse does not burn at a very high temperature.    A similar type of slow fuse can

be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder and pouring

it on a long piece of toilet paper.  The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted

up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry.







4.32     TIMER DELAYS





     Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who

wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location

and means to disarm it.  Such a device could be placed in any populated place

if it were concealed properly.    There are several ways to build a timer delay.

By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired,

and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be

made.  The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than

an hour is desired.



        ___________________________________  to igniter        from igniter

         |               |

         |            12         |     ^           :

        |        11         1    |       :          :

        |              |    :             :

        |      10              2      |       :          v

        |           .................|......:      :

        |           :       |                 :

        |    9       o          3      |             :

        |           |       |                 :

        |          |          |            :

        |     8        |        4      |           :

        |           V     o..........|......           :

        |           7        5        |      :         :

        |           6       |     :.........+     -

        |_________________________________|        __|_____|____

                    |         |

                    |  battery  |

      o -contacts             |          |

      ..... -wire             |          |

                    |___________|



     This device is set to go off in eleven hours.  When the hour hand of the

clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit,

allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib.



     The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set

 for a maximum time of 12 hours.  If an electronic timer is used, such as that in

an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible.  By removing

the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or

igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made.  To utilize

this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into.

All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time,

connect the leads, and go away.  This could also be done with an electronic

watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the

watch was stepped up via a transformer.  This would be good, since such a timer

could be extremely small.  The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would

be ideal.  VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week.  The leads from

the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib

would be connected to.    Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that

would be ideal.  Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or

electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would

not have to be stepped up.





4.33     CHEMICAL DELAYS





     Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in

some cases.  If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid,

and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat

through, then it can be used as a delay.  Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum

foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be

open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is

forming does not break the container.





           |        |

           |        |

           |        |

           |_______________|

           |        |

           |sulfuric       |

           |       |

           |   |acid     | |

           |   |     | |---------- aluminum foil

           |   |_______ _______| |         (several thicknesses)

           |___________________|





     The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured

there with tape.  When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used

to ignite an explosive device in several ways.



     1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity.  If the acid that

    eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed

    underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container,

     a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the

    wires are immersed in the acid.



     2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate.  If

    the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate,

    the potassium chlorate will burst into flame.  This flame can be

    used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter

    for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50

    ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for

    the rest of the thermit.



     3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.







4.4    EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS





     This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to

a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which

are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror.





4.41     PAPER CONTAINERS





     Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was

first used by the Chinese to make fireworks.  Paper containers are usually very

simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest.  There are many possible uses

for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers

and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it

together, one can make a simple rocket engine.    Perhaps a more interesting and

dangerous use is in the firecracker.  The firecracker shown here is one of

Mexican design.  It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove".  The process of their

manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football.  If one takes a sheet

of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner so

that it looks like this:



     _______________________________________________________

       |                             |\

       |                             | \

       |                             |  \

       |_____________________________________________________|___\



and then fold it again so that it looks like this:



     ______________________________________________________

     |                                  /|

     |                                / |

     |                              /  |

     |________________________________________________/___|



      A pocket is formed.  This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex,

flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel-

oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder.  A fuse is then

inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill

out any of the explosive.  When the polumna is finished, it should be taped

together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container,

and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit.  The finished

polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one

shown below:





         ^

        / \  ----- securely tape all corners

       /      \

      /       \

     /       \

    /      \

       /       \____________________________

      /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/  ---------- fuse









4.42     METAL CONTAINERS





     The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained

explosive.  Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match

heads.    They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white-

tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed.  This process often kills

the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause

enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the

unfinished bomb.  By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the

less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb.  He would

buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1).  First, he would drill a hole in

one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powder

will not escape during handling.  The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long

inside the bomb.  He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly,

possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight.  He would then

pour his explosive powder in the bomb.    To pack it tightly, he would take a

large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the

powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil

or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further.  Finally, he

would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it.  The tissue paper would help

prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe

cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder,

causing an explosion during manufacture.  An assembled bomb is presented in

fig. 2.



     _________           _______________     __________

    | vvvvvv|     ^^^^^^           ^^^^^^ |vvvvvv  |

     | |      |_________________________|          | |

     | |                   | |

     | |                   | |

     | |                   | |

     | |                   | |

     | |       ___________________________        | |

     | |      |            |           | |

     | |^^^^^|       vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv        |^^^^^^  |

     |_______|                  |________|



     fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.



.PA



      ________                     ________

      | _____|________________________________|_____ |

      | |__________________________________________| |

      | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |

      | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|

      | | : : :  |- - - low order explosive - - ----------------------

       | | paper  | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-|

      | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |    fuse

      | |__________________________________________| |

      | |__________________________________________| |

      |______|              |______|



      endcap      pipe             endcap

                    w/ hole



     fig. 2  Assembled pipe bomb.





     This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use.  If, however,

he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a

piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable

position.  A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding

it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper

pipe, it will split along the fold.  The safest method for making a pipe bomb

out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps.

First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure

not to tear or rip the piping.    Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded

over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe.  A fuse hole should be

drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted.

Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack

it with a large wad of tissue paper.  He would then flatten and fold the other

end of the pipe with a pair of pliers.    If he was not too dumb, he would do this

slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which

could set off the explosive.  A diagram is presented below:



                             ________

     _______________________________________________/        |

     |                                   |

     |                            o       |

     |______________________________________________          |

                     \_______|



     fig. 1  pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view)



.PA



                          ______

     ____________________________________________/  |  |

     |                             |    |

     |                          o  |    |

     |___________________________________________   |  |

                  \__|__|



     fig. 2  pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)



                  ____________ fuse hole

                  |

                  v

     ________________________________________ ___  ______

     |                   \ |____ |

     |                    \____| |

     |                     ______|

     |                    /

     |___________________________________________/



     fig. 3  pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)



                 _________________ fuse

                /

                |

      ________     ______________________________|___  _______

      |  ____|       /     |- - - - - - - - - - - - | - \ |____  |

      |  |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| |

      |________     paper |- - -  low order explosive -  _______|

        \       | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /

         \__________________________________/





     fig. 4  completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive

        (side view)









      A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for

a low-order explosive.    It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming

to fill.  But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge

with a pointed tool.  Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the

CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel-

oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse.  These devices are commonly called

"crater makers".



     A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiary

device, but it must be modified.  The opening in the end must be widened, so

that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode.  The

fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the

thermit.

     The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for

low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the

latter requires a shockwave to be detonated.  A design employing a smaller

low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order

explosive would probably be used.  It would look something like:





                         _______________________  fuse

                         |

                         |

                         |

      _________                  |             _________

      |   ____|__________________________|___________|____   |

      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * *  |   |

      |   |  * * * * * * high explosive  | * * * * * * * |   |

      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * *  |   |

      |   |  *    ______      _______________|_    ______  * |   |

      |   | * * |  __|     /   - - - - - - | \   |__  | *  |   |

      |   |  *    |  |____/   low explosive - \____|  |  * |   |

      |   | * * |_______  - - - - - - - - -  _______| *  |   |

      |   |  * * * * *    \  - - - - - - - -  /  * * * * * |   |

      |   | * * * * * *  \_________________/  * * * * *  |   |

      |   |  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |   |

      |   | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *  |   |

      |   |  * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |   |

      |   |______________________________________________|   |

      |_______|             |_______|





     If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge,

then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb,

which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge.



4.43     GLASS CONTAINERS





     Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there

are problems with them.  First, a glass container can be broken relatively

easily compared to metal or plastic containers.  Secondly, in the

not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would

probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small.  A bomb made out of

a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he

still has pieces of glass in his hand.    He is also missing the final segment of

his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass...



     Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by

a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal

detectors in an airport or other public place.    All that need be done is fill

the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly

in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.



.PA



            ________________________  fuse

            |

            |

            |

           _____|_____

           | ___|___ |

           | >  |  < |  drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;

           | >  |  < |  be sure fuse will not come out of cap

           | >  |  < |

           |    |     |

        |      |

           |      |

           |     |  screw cap on bottle

           |      |

           |      |

           V      V



         ________

        <       >

        <        >

        <       >

          /    \

         /     \

        /        \

           |        |  fill bottle with low-order explosive

           |        |

           |        |

           |        |

           |        |

           |___________|





     Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle,

since glass is not an exceptionally strong container.  Much of the explosive

that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger

than a 16 oz. soda bottle.  Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for

high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand

the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was

able to detonate.







4.44     PLASTIC CONTAINERS





     Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since

they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass.    Plastic piping

can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones

used for metal containers can be made.    The high-order version works well with

plastic piping.  If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not

detectable by metal detectors.    Plastic containers can usually be shaped by

heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place.  They can be

glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics.  Epoxy alone can be used as

an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping.  Epoxy with a drying

agent works best in this type of device.





           ||          ||

           ||           ||

           ||\_____________/||

           ||          ||

           ||     epoxy      ||

           ||_______________||

           ||          ||

           ||    tissue      ||

           ||     paper      ||

           ||_______________||

           ||***************||

           ||***************||

           ||***************||

           ||***************||

           ||** explosive **||

           ||***************||

           ||***********-----------------------  fuse

           ||***************||

           ||_______________||

           ||          ||

           ||    tissue       ||

           ||     paper      ||

           ||_______________||

           ||          ||

           ||     epoxy      ||

           || _____________ ||

           ||/          \||

           ||          ||

           ||           ||





     One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the

device can be filled with powder and fused.  Then, with another piece of tissue

paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy.  PVC pipe

works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an

inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch.  Other plastic puttys can be used

int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best.









4.5    ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES





     The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person

who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives.  Some of this

information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks.  Advanced

uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount

of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage.    They almost always involve high-

order explosives.







4.51     SHAPED CHARGES





     A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs

the explosive force of detonation at a small target area.  This process can be

used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds

of pressure per square inch can be generated.  Shaped charges employ high-order

explosives, and usually electric ignition systems.  KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL

EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!!





.PA

     An example of a shaped charge is shown below.





         + wire ________        _______ - wire

                |         |

                |         |

                |         |

 _             __________|_________|____________

 ^            | ________|_________|__________ |

 |            | |         |        |    | |

 |            | |           \ igniter /    | |

 |            | |        \_______/          | |

 |            | |    priming charge          | |

 |            | |   (mercury fulminate)     | |

 |            | |        ^            | |

 |            | |           / \          | |

 |            | |          /   \           | |

 |            | |         /       \        | |

 |            | |        /        \          | |

 |            | |       /         \        | |

 |            | |      /         \     | |

               | |    /        \      | |

 8 inches high          | |      /           \     | |

               | |    /       high     \    | |

 |            | |   /      explosive    \       | |

 |            | |  /         charge     \  | |

 |            | | /                  \ | |

 |            | |/                  \| |

 |            | |        ^           | |

 |            | |           / \          | |

 |            | |          /   \           | |

 |            | |         /       \          | |

 |            | |        /        \          | |

 |            | |       /         \      | |

 |            | |      /          \       | |

 |            | |     /         \    | |

 |            | |    /         \     | |

 |             | |    /          \    | | ------- 1/2 inch thick

 |            | |   /               \   | |          steel pipe

 |            | |  /                  \  | |

 |            | | /                  \ | |

 |            | |/                  \| |

 |    hole for        | |                | |       hole for

 |    screw         | |                 | |      screw

 |            | |                  | |

 V_______  ___________| |                | |___________  ________

 |______|  |____________|                |_____________| |______|



         |<------- 8 inches -------->|



     If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would

direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the opening

of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in the

explosive material.  This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees.  A device

such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful

electromagnet.







4.52     TUBE EXPLOSIVES





     A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that

shaped charges cannot.    If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with

a sensitive high explosive such as R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive

container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced;

a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner.  This type of

explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole.

The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever

it was wrapped around.    In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like

this:





           ||      ||

           ||     ||

           ||\____/||

           || epoxy||

           ||______||

           ||     ||

           ||tissue||

           || paper||

           ||______||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           || RDX  ||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           ||******||

           || ____ ||

           || | s| ||

           || | q| ||

           || | u| ||

           || | i| ||

           || | b| ||

           || | b| ||

           || |__| ||

           ||__||__||

           ||tissue||

           || paper||

           ||__||__||

           ||  ||  ||

           || epoxy||

           ||  ||  ||

           || _||_ ||

           ||/ || \||

           ||  ||  ||

           ||  ||  ||

           ||_______ + wire ______________

           |

           |________ - wire ______________







     When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap

it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube

bomb together.    After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires,

and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation.





4.53     ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS





     If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small

particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion

similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced.  The

tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly,

pushing the cylinder up.  Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and

ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would push

the walls of the building down.  This phenomenon is called an atomized particle

explosion.  If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly

flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge,

or other structure.  Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be

extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive.  If a gallon

jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge

was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited.  If this

occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely

occur.    Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish

this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T., or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X.   Also, instead

of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used.  It is necessary that a high

explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion

does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material.









4.54     LIGHTBULB BOMBS





     An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the

light.    This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead

light socket.  A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make.  It also comes

with its own initiator and electric ignition system.  On some lightbulbs, the

lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a

lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove.  This must

be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum.  When the glue

gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base.  On other

bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or

oxy-acetylene torch.  When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked

in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb.  In either case,

once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the

bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder.  If the

glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base

with epoxy.  If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient

to hold the explosive in the in the bulb.  Then, after making sure that the

socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be

done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket.  Such a device has been

used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the

room for a bomb without first turning on the light.







4.55     BOOK BOMBS





     Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where

perpetrators of violence run wild.  Bags and briefcases are often searched

by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend

to set off a bomb.  One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is

called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of

a book.  Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of

the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb.  Dictionaries, law

books, large textbooks, and other such books work well.  When an individual

makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for

the place where the book bomb will be placed.  The actual construction of a

book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping

saw.  First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together.  By pouring

an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling

the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will

hold all of the book's pages together tightly.  After the glue-water solution

has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well,

the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each

page must be thoroughly soaked.  It is extremely important that the covers of

the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying.

Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice

works best.  When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must

be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood.

Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a

rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell

of the book's pages.  The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:





           ________________________

           | ____________________ |

           | |               | |

           | |               | |

           | |               | |

           | |               | |

           | |               | |

           | |            | |

           | |               | |

           | |               | |

           | |               | |

           | |               | |

           | |               | |

           | |__________________| |

           |______________________|



            (book covers omitted)





     This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.

After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled

variety, the bomber places it inside the book.    The bomb itself, and whatever

timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling

or shifting about.  Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has

been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its

destination.











4.56     PHONE BOMBS





     The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past

to kill or injure a specific individual.  The basic idea is simple: when the

person answers the phone, the bomb explodes.  If a small but powerful high

explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the

current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the

high explosive in the person's hand.  Nasty.  All that has to be done is

acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece

cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was.

Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver,

and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1.

Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place.  When the individual to whom

the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and

remove it.  This will allow current to flow through the squib.    Note that

the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the

phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape.  It is highly probable

that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes...





5.0    SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS





     Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social

deviant's arsenal.  Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over

individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to

kill.  Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from crossbows

to shotguns.





5.1    SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS





     For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive

that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward.    This

means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets.







5.11     BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION





     Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition.  It is

extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter

to produce explosive arrows or bolts.  If, however, one can acquire aluminum

piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire

segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates

upon impact, or with a fuse.  All that need be done is find an aluminum tube

of the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and

epoxy.    Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-

order explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top.  Cut a slot in the piece

of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making

sure to leave a small hole.  Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the hole, and

secure it with super glue.  Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical

or duct tape, and make fins out of tape.  Or, fins can be bought at a sporting

goods store, and glued to the shaft.  The finished product should look like:



           _____

           |   | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap

           ||*||

        |*|

        |*|

        |*|

        |*|

        |*|

        |*| ----------- aluminum piping

        |*|

        |e|

        |x|

        |p|

        |l|

        |o|

        |s|

        |i|

        |v|

        |e|

        |*|

        |*|

        |*|

        |*|

        |*|

        |*|

        |*|

           /|_|\

          / |t| \

          | |p| |

          | |_| |

          | |e| | -------- fins

          | |p| |

          | |y| |

          |_|_|_|

        |_|





     tp: tissue paper



     epy: epoxy





     When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap

explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive.







5.12     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS





     The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages.

A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive

or poisoned projectile.  The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile

is not difficult.  Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use

of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies.

Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed.  Next, the

capsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive.    An additional

high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive,

if one of the larger capsules were used.  Finally, the explosive capsule would

be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end

containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive

struck the target first.  Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch

long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this:





         ____________________

        /mercury |         \-----------------------

           (fulminate|   R.D.X.   )---------------------- } tassels

         \________|___________/-----------------------









5.13     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS





     A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon.  It can throw a shooter

marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy.    Inside of 200 ft., it could well

be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area.  Because of the

relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the

wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles.

A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device

by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material.  Also, such a pipe

could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would

be lit before the device was shot.  One would have to make sure that the fuse

was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it

reached its intended target.  Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that

are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for

wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of

their light weight.









.PA



5.2    SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS





     When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and

rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with

a single weapon.  It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be

difficult to do.  Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home.  There

is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition.  If the ammunition

is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the

slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur.  For

this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION.





5.21     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS





     If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her

handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive

explosive and a few simple tools.  One would first purchase all lead bullets,

and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive.  By drilling a hole

in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of

an explosive.  After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed

in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle.  A diagram of a completed

exploding bullet is shown below.





              _o_ ------------ drop of wax

             /|*|\

            | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive

            | |_| |

            |_____|





     This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.





5.22     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS



     Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create

some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns.  If a shotgun

shell is opened at the top, and the shot is removed, the shell can be re-closed.

Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to

the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of

shotgun-launched weapons.  Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the

shell without the shot in the firing chamber.  Mark the dowel about six inches

away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel.  Next, decide

what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used.  This device can be a

chemical fire bottle (see sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb

(sect 3.41 and 4.42).  After the device is made, it must be securely attached to

the  dowel.  When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun.  The bomb or

incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel.  Make sure that the device

has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun.  If the projectile

is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible.    A diagram of a shotgun

projectile is shown below.







        ____

        ||  |

           ||  |

           ||  | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel

           ||  |

           ||__|

           || |

           || | ------- fuse

           || |

           ||

           ||

           ||

           || --------- dowel

           ||

           ||

           ||

           ||

           ||

           || --------- insert this end into shotgun







5.3    SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS



     This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for

compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns,

and .22 cal pellet guns.  These weapons, although usually thought of as kids

toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons.







5.31     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS





     A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle

or pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber



of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet.  Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle

velocity as a bullet-firing rifle.  Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber

projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a

caliber of .177.  Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use

primers to ignite the powder in the bullet.  These primers can be bought at gun

stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets.  Such primers

detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun.  They will also detonate if

they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed.  Usually, they will also fit

in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun.  If they are inserted flat end first, they

will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface.    If such a primer is

attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the

tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun.  A

diagram of such a projectile appears below.





         _____ primers _______

        |            |

        |            |

        |            |

        V            V

      ______        ______

      | ________________________ |-------------------

      | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or

      | ________________________ |-------------------   cotton

      |_____        _____|-------------------

            ^

            |

            |

            |_______ antenna tubing



     The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue.

The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on.

Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to

insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer.  The entire projectile

should be about 3/4 of an inch long.







5.32     SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS





     A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at

close ranges.  Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be

adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles.  A design similar to that used in

section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller.

Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have

to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since

there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber.  A #11 cap is too small,

but anything larger will do nicely.







6.0    ROCKETS AND CANNONS





     Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery.

Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are

difficult or impossible to acquire.  They are not, however, impossible to make.

Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such things.

A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to fear.







6.1    ROCKETS





     Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years

before Christ.    They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks.

They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate,

expensive, and unpredictable.  In modern times, however, rockets are used

constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil.

Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they

can make or buy rocket engines.  Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space

age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required.  Estes, a subsidiary of

Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines.  Their

most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust;

enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance.

Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which

develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust.  These model rocket engines are quite reliable,

and are designed to be fired electrically.  Most model rocket engines have

three basic sections.  The diagram below will help explain them.





     __________________________________________________________

     |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard

      \  clay  | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c|         casing

      \_______|  - - - - - - - - -  | * * * |  . . . |l|

       _______    - - - thrust - - -  | smoke | eject  |a|

      / clay  |  - - - - - - - - -  | * * * | . . . .|y|

     /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______

     |________________________________________________________| -- cardboard

                          casing





     The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted.    When the area labeled

"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a

propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot,

rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward.

After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is

ignited.  It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that

has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black,

white, or yellow in color.  This section exists so that the rocket will be seen

when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee.  When it is burned up, it

ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject".  The ejection charge is finely

powdered black powder.    It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect.  The

explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket.

It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb...





     Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system.  Typical engine

labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5.  The letter is an

indicator of the power of an engine.  "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A"

engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on.  The

number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds.

the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust

period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a

3 second delay.





NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum

      dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide.

      The mixture is bound together by an epoxy.







6.11     BASIC ROCKET BOMB





     A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered

to its target by means of a rocket.  Most people who would make such a device

would use a model rocket engine to power the device.  By cutting fins from balsa

wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a

basic rocket could be constructed.  Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2

cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added.  To insure that the fuse of

the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection charge

of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool.  The fuse of the bomb

should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below.







      ____________ rocket engine

      |                _________ crater maker

      |                |

      |                |

      V                |

     _________________________________        V

     |_______________________________|    ______________________

      \   | - - - - - -|***|::::|    /# # # # # # # # # # # \

       \__| - - - - - -|***|::::|  ___/  # # # # # # # # # # # \

    __  - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # #  explosive  # # )

       /  | - - - - - -|***|::::|  ___     # # # # # # # # # # # /

      /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/

     |_______________________________|





     thrust> - - - - - -

     smoke>  ***

     ejection charge> ::::





     Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket

engine.  Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge

Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such as



a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.







     Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure

that the rocket flies straight.  The fins should look like this:





      |\

      | \

      |  \

      |   \  <--------- glue this to rocket engine

      |    \

      |    \

      |     \

      |      |

      |       |

      |       |

  leading edge          |     |

   ------->       |     |

      |       |

      |       |  trailing edge

      |       |    <--------

      |       |

      |       |

      |       |

      |       |

       \_____/





     The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so

that they are rounded.    This will help make the rocket fly straight.  A two

inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it

from.  A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod.    The segment of

a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins

of the rocket.    A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.



             |

             |

             |

       fin         | <------ fin

        |        |        |

        |        |        |

        |          __|__     |

        V         /       \      V

       ---------------|      |---------------

          \_____/

             |o <----------- segment of plastic straw

             |

             |

             | <------ fin

             |

             |

             |



     By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a

launch rod can be made.  After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is

simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic

straw.    The rocket should slide easily along the coathanger.





         ____

        /    \

           |      |

     cut here _____    |

        |      |

        |      |

        |     / \

        V    /   \

    _________________/       \________________

   /                 \

  /                 \

 /____________________________________________\

                  ^

                 |

                 |

            and here ______|





     Bend wire to this shape:





             _______ insert into straw

             |

             |

             |

             V

      ____________________________________________

      \

       \

        \

         \

          \  <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle

           |

           |

           |

           |

           |

           | <---------- put this end in ground

           |







.PA

6.12     LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB





     Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets.  Model

rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi-

stage rockets.    An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an

engine.  Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge

explodes.  If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0"

engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning

particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section.

 This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of

weight.  The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as

travels, and it gains velocity.  A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat

differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly

straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag.  This is

accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the

center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the

rocket.  A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears below:





            ___

           /   \

            |    |

           | C |

           | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker

           |   |

           |   |

           |___|

           |   |

           |   |

           |   |

           | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine

          /| 6 |\

         / | | | \

        /  | 5 |  \

           /   |___|   \ ---- fin

          /   /|   |\   \

         /     / |   | \   \

        /    /  |   |  \   \

       /   /   | C |   \   \

         |     /    | 6 |    \   |

      |  /       | | |     \    |

      | /       | 0 |      \ |

      |/       |___|       \|

      |       /     \     |

      \______/   ^     \______/ ------- fin

             |

             |

             |

             |

             C6-0 rocket engine





     The fuse is put in the bottom engine.





     Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it

a longer range.  It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the

fin area gets larger.







6.13     MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS





     "M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle.  The concept is

simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile.  This can be

done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers

and can buy rocket engines.  By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a

rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive

devices to a target.  Such a rocket might look like this:





          ___

         /     \

         |     |

         | C |

         | M |

         |___|

      ___|     |___

      |  |     |  |

      |  | T |  |

     / \ | U | / \

    /   \| B |/   \

    |   || E ||   |

    | C ||     || C |

    | M ||     || M |

    |   ||___||   |

    \___/| E |\___/

         | N |

        /| G |\

       / | I | \

      /  | N |  \

     /   | E |   \

    /     |___|      \

       / fin/  |  \ fin\

      |    /   |   \    |

       \__/    |    \__/

           ^

           |____ fin





     The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with tape.

the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper.

The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder or black powder.

Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the crater makers are inserted

in these holes.  A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube, so that

its fuse is inside the tube.  A fuse is inserted in the engine, or in the bottom

engine if the rocket bomb is multi stage, and the rocket is launched from the

coathanger launcher, if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it.







6.2    CANNON





     The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the

11th century.  It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder,

loaded, and fired.  Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot,

otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the

barrel to explode.  A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble,

if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience.







6.21     BASIC PIPE CANNON





     A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone.  The

only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior.

This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam.  Copper or

aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to

withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon.  If

one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be

made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal.  Such a pipe

MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth

on the interior.  If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.    Otherwise, the

pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe.

A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug.

Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of

grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad

of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge.  Brace the cannon

securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run.  If the person is

lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by

pieces of exploding barrel.  Such a cannon would look like this:



         __________________ fuse hole

         |

         |

         V

      __________ ______________________________________________________

     | |________ _____________________________________________________|

       |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge

     | ______|______|____|____________________________________________

     |_|______________________________________________________________|





     An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2

cartridge.  It is relatively simple to do.  Just make a crater maker, and

construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the

cartridge.  Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for

a small amount at the end.  Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue

paper packing wad.  When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse,

and shoot the CO2 cartridge.  The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in

about

three seconds, if all goes well.   Such a projectile would look like this:





       ___

      /   \

      |   |

      | C |

      | M |

      |   |

      |   |

      |\ /|

      | | | ---- tape

       |_|_|

        | ------ fuse







6.22     ROCKET FIRING CANNON





     A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the

only difference is the ammunition.  A rocket fired from a cannon will fly further

than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the initial

inertia.  A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further than one

that is launched when it is stationary.  Such a rocket would resemble a normal

rocket bomb, except it would have no fins.  It would look like this:





       ___

      /   \

      |   |

      | C |

      | M |

      |   |

      |   |

      |___|

      | E |

      | N |

      | G |

      | I |

      | N |

      | E |

      |___|





     the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not

be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded.  Thus, the delay before

the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes.

Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon

will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high

velocity.







7.0    PYROTECHNICA ERRATA





     There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of

violence might employ.    Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large

military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and military magazines.

Finally, fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror.  A large aerial display

rocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the

ground near a crowd of people.    Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, which

consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running through

it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive high

explosive.  Tear gas is another material that might well be useful to the

sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over a large

crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects.





7.1    SMOKE BOMBS





     One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in

many way would be a smoke bomb.  Such a device could conceal the getaway route,

or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover.    Such a device, were it to

produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of a

building, for example.    Smoke bombs are not difficult to make.    Although the

military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds,

such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist.

Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves.



     Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such

as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion.  The base material will burn

well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but

not completely or cleanly.  Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material,

produces large amounts of smoke.  Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount

of oil in it, and a base powder works well also.  Other excellent smoke

ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many

chemical mixtures.  The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and

sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke.  Most of the fuel-oxodizer

mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base

powder.  The list of possibilities goes on and on.  The trick to a successful

smoke bomb also lies in the container used.  A plastic cylinder works well, and

contributes to the smoke produced.  The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse

enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an

explosion.  This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt

and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to

prevent an explosion.







7.2    COLORED FLAMES





     Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists.

by putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the

ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball.  The materials that

produce the different colors of flames appear below.





COLOR            MATERIAL            USED IN

_____            ________            _______

_______________________________________________________________________________

red               strontium            road flares,

            salts             red sparklers

            (strontium nitrate)

_______________________________________________________________________________

green            barium salts           green sparklers

            (barium nitrate)

_______________________________________________________________________________

yellow             sodium salts        gold sparklers

            (sodium nitrate)

_______________________________________________________________________________

blue            powdered copper      blue sparklers,

            old pennies

_______________________________________________________________________________

white            powdered magnesium        firestarters,

            or aluminum           aluminum foil

_______________________________________________________________________________

purple             potassium permanganate    purple fountains,

                         treating sewage

_______________________________________________________________________________







7.3    TEAR GAS



     A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use

it with ease against a large number of people.    Tear gas is fairly complicated

to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize

its great potential for harm.  One method for its preparation is shown below.



     EQUIPMENT

     _________



     1.  ring stands (2)

     2.  alcohol burner

     3.  erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml

     4.  clamps (2)

     5.  rubber stopper

     6.  glass tubing

     7.  clamp holder

     8.  condenser

     9.  rubber tubing

     10.  collecting flask

     11.  air trap

     12.  beaker, 300 ml





     MATERIALS

     _________



     10 gms  glycerine



     2 gms sodium bisulfate



     distilled water





1.)  In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms

     of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask.



2.)  Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask.



3.)  The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas.



4.)  When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a brown

     residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete.  Remove the

     heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is corrosive.



5.)  The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting

     flask is tear gas.  It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place.





7.4    FIREWORKS





     While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror,

they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries.  There are several

basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun, profit,

or nasty uses.





7.41     FIRECRACKERS





     A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy.

The instructions are below:



     1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.

    "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.



     2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill

    it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter

    of the tubing.    Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as

    specified on the package.



     3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and

    insert a desired length of fuse.



     4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive.  Flash

    powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide,

    nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures

    will do nicely.  Fill the tube almost to the top.



     5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper

    and a pencil or other suitable ramrod.    Be sure to leave enough space

     for more epoxy.



     6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow

     it to dry.



     7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use

    flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for

    colors.  By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it

    to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the

    sparkler.   By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the

    device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color

    as the sparkler.  By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will

    be produced.  White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings,

    or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.



    Example:  Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode

           with a red flash, and throw out white sparks.  First,

           I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material

           inside it.   Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely

           powder it.  Then, I would mix a small amount of this

           material with the flash powder.    (NOTE: FLASH POWDER

           MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND

           EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!)    I would mix it in a ratio of

           9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler

           material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil

           I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight

           outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't

           react.  Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount

           of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the

           firecracker.



     8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,

    professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.





7.42     SKYROCKETS





     An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from

model rocket engines.  Estes engines are recommended.



     1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering

    that the power doubles with each letter.  (See sect. 6.1 for details)



     2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly

    fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper

    and glue.



     3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that

    the powder is exposed.    Glue the tube to the engine, so that the

    tube covers at least half the engine.  Pour a small charge of

    flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.



     4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,

    various types of effects can be produced.



     5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick

    in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or

       M.R.V.'s can be produced.



     6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with

    the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.





7.43     ROMAN CANDLES



     Roman candles are impressive to watch.  They are relatively difficult

to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are

well worth the trouble.



     1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it

    with several layers of paper and/or masking tape.  This must

    be done to prevent the tube from exploding.  Cut the tube into

    about 10 inch lengths.



     2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy

    and the drying agent.  About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.



     3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy,

    and insert a desired length of water proof fuse.  Make sure that

    the fuse fits tightly.



     4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the

    tube.



     5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired

    color.    Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and

    a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of

    60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex.  After

    mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing

    continuously, until a damp paste is formed.  This paste should

    be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone.

    Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube.  Allow

    the ball to dry.



     6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube.  It should slide down

    fairly easily.    Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack

     it gently against the ball with a pencil.



     7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed

    in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run.  If the device works,

    a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of

    about 30 feet.    This height can be increased by adding a slightly

    larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube.



     8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.



     9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets,

    producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.







8.0    LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION





     Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained

 through a public or university library.  There are also many publications that

are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to

make explosives at home.  Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary

magazines and newspapers.  This list is presented to show the large number of

places that information and materials can be purchased from.   It also includes

fireworks companies and the like.





COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS           WHAT COMPANY SELLS

________________________           __________________





FULL AUTO CO. INC.              EXPLOSIVE RECIPES,

P.O. BOX 1881                  PAPER TUBING

MURFREESBORO, TN

37133

 _______________________________________________________________________________



UNLIMITED                   CHEMICALS AND FUSE

BOX 1378-SN

HERMISTON, OREGON

97838

_______________________________________________________________________________



AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS           FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH

SR BOX 30                   SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES

DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA

18328

_______________________________________________________________________________



BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC.        BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS,

125 RUNNELS STREET              AIR RIFLES

P.O. BOX 226

PORT HURON, MICHIGAN

48060

_______________________________________________________________________________



CROSSMAN AIR GUNS             AIR GUNS

P.O. BOX 22927

ROCHESTER, NEW YORK

14692

_______________________________________________________________________________



EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC.     TEAR GAS GRENADES,

316 CALIFORNIA AVE.               PROTECTION DEVICES

RENO, NEVADA

89509

_______________________________________________________________________________



BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC.       CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS

BOX 1451

JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN

53547

_______________________________________________________________________________



NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC.       CLASS "C" FIREWORKS

P.O. BOX 3504

STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT

06095

_______________________________________________________________________________



RAINBOW TRAIL                  CLASS "C" FIREWORKS

BOX 581

EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA

19028

_______________________________________________________________________________



STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC.       CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS

4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD

RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN

49878

_______________________________________________________________________________



WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC.       CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS

P.O. BOX 11                {GOOD PRICES!}

ROCHESTER, INDIANNA

46975

_______________________________________________________________________________





BOOKS

_____



THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK



THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL



MILITARY EXPLOSIVES



FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS





9.0    CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS



     In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she

wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the

chemicals to make the explosive from a lab.  A list of such chemicals in order

of priority would probably resemble the following:



     LIQUIDS            SOLIDS

     _______            ______



     ____     Nitric Acid       ____     Potassium Perchlorate

     ____     Sulfuric Acid         ____     Potassium Chlorate

     ____     95% Ethanol       ____     Picric Acid (usually a powder)

     ____     Toluene            ____     Ammonium Nitrate

     ____     Perchloric Acid      ____       Powdered Magnesium

     ____     Hydrochloric Acid     ____     Powdered Aluminum

             ____     Potassium Permanganate

             ____      Sulfur

             ____ Mercury

             ____      Potassium Nitrate

             ____      Potassium Hydroxide

             ____      Phosphorus

             ____ Sodium Azide

             ____      Lead Acetate

             ____      Barium Nitrate





10.0     USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY



     In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic

ones.  A list of useful chemical reactions is presented.  It assumes knowledge

of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following

reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school

chemistry book.





1.  potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide

     K(OH)     +     HClO    ---->      KClO       +    H O

           4          4          2



2.  potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide

      "       +     HNO     ---->     KNO     +     "

          3        3



3.  ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide

     NH OH     +     HClO    ---->      NH ClO     +       "

       3          4         3   4



4.  ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide

    NH OH        +      HNO      ---->     NH NO     +     "

       3         3                3  3



5.  powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium



A.     aluminum foil    +    6HCl    ---->   2AlCl   +     3H

                        3         2



B.     2AlCl  (aq)   +      3Mg     ---->    3MgCl (aq)   +    2Al

      3                     2



     The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container

which must be filtered and dried.   This same method works with nitric and

sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high

explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great excess.





11.0     ABOUT THE AUTHOR





     The author, who wishes his name to be unknown, is presently attending

a college in the United States of America, majoring in Engineering.  He was

raised by his parents on the East Coast, and received his high school education

there.    He first became interested in pyrotechnics when he was about eight years

of age.  At age twelve, he produced his first explosive device; it was slightly

more powerful than a large firecracker.  He continued to produce explosive

devices for several years.  He also became interested in model rocketry, and has

built several rockets from kits, and designed his own rockets.    While in high

school, the author became affiliated with CHAOS, and eventually became the

head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies.  At this time, at age 18, he produced

his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep crater in an associate's

back yard.  He had also produced many types of rockets, explosive ammunition,

and other pyrotechnic devices.    While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro-

Technologies, he was injured when a home made device exploded in his hand; he

did not make the device.  The author learned, however, and  then decided to

reform, and although he still constructs an occasional explosive device, he

chooses to abstain from their production.  An occasional rocket that produces

effects similar to that of professional displays can sometimes be seen in the

midnight sky near his college, and the Fourth of July is still his favorite day

of the year.





           Pax et Discordia,





           the Author





HERE ENDS THE FIRST PUBLICATION OF THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK.  THIS IS THE ONLY

AUTHORIZED PUBLICATION, AND THE SOLE PRODUCTION RIGHTS BELONG TO CHAOS

INDUSTRIES AND GUNZENBOMZ PYRO-TECHNOLOGIES.