This is nothing more than a few sections of pipe filled with sticks of
dynamite, sealed at the ends, and joined in the middle by couplings, thus
permitting the torpedo to be of varying lengths. The cap at one end must have
a small hole drilled in it, so that a fuse and blasting cap can be inserted.
It can be used very effectively to destroy walls, barricades, and
steel or iron doors. These are also great weapons against cars, trucks, and
even trains. If piping of this sort is not available, you can make a
substitute torpedo by taking a stick of dynamite and wrapping it tightly with
electric tape and thin copper wire. To be effectvie, it should have many
layers of each.
[Homemade Hand Grenade]
This is constructed from an empty, clean, condensed-milk can, attached to a
wodden handle. It is then filled halfway with a layer of dynamite. In the
dynamite is placed a nonelectric blasting cap, with a five to six second
fuse. The dynamite is then covered with small pieces of iron, until the can is
full. Seal the top of the open end closed, leaving a small hole for the fuse.
/
====|====
=.:.|.:.=
=:.:|.:.= <--[:.: = Iron Scraps]
=.:.|:.:=
=---|---=
=///+///=
=///+///= <--[+ = Non-electric Blasting Cap]
=///+///=
=///////=
=///////= <--[/// = Dynamite]
=========
|||
||| <-- Wooden Handle
|||
|||
[Anti-Personnel Grenade]
This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end,
either by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightly
with dynamite, and sealed at the other end, leaving a small hole for the
detonator, which is made in the following manner. A piece of one-eighth-inch
tubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in turn is attached
to a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton, saturated
with chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by another
piece of cotton and a little vial of sulferic acid. (This vial must be
hermetically sealed, to prevent leakage). Finally, a piece of wood or iron,
which can be easily moved, is packed in the remaining empty space. The piece
of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is moved the piece of iron or
wood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once the
sulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction will
cause a very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. If
this type of device is placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of the
enemy army, there is a good change it will be set off - either by a kick or
by curiosity.
[Book Trap]
To construct this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. The
book should be hollowed out, leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place,
put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and connect the wires. Fix two
metal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them with a
wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This must
be accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from the
shelf, the metal contact points will touch and complete the electrical
circuit, thus causing the detonation of the explosive charge.
[ ] BOOK BOMBS
Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where
perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched
by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend
to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is
called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of
a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of
the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law
books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual
makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for
the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a
book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping
saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring
an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling
the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will
hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution
has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well,
the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each
page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of
the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying.
Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice
works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must
be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood.
Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a
rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell
of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:
________________________
| ____________________ |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |__________________| |
|______________________|
(book covers omitted)
This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.
After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled
variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever
timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling
or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has
been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its
destination.
[Loose Floorboard Trap]
This one utilizes the same principles as the Book Trap, in that is relies on
two metal contact points touching to complete the electrical circuit. Beneath
the loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal of bamboo, each with a
metal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on the
loose floorboard.
[Gate Trap]
This is an extremely simple, effective, and relatively safe booby trap. To
cock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension release grenade, and
place beneath a swining gate, or anywhere that will supply the pressure
necessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressure
will be released and the grenade detonated.
[Chimney Trap]
Take three or four sticks of dynamite and tape them together. Attach a
nonelectrical blasting cap, with a three or four foot fuse. Now tape the
dynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the fuse
hanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so up
the chimney so that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heat
generated will ignite the fuse, and it will explode the charge, further up the
chimney. This works extremely well, since most of the tamping is supplied by
the very structure of the chimney.
[Car Trap]
It has many advantages, the most important being that you do not have to carry
your own power supply, but rather use the ignition system of the car itself.
Wires are run from the electrical blasting cap to points along the electrical
ignititon system, and attached with alligator clips. When the key it turned,
it will complete the ignition system, and thus explode the bomb. A good place
to hide explosives is in the hollow cavity behind the dashboard, since then
the full force of the explosion will be directed at the individuals in the
front seat.
[Pipe Trap]
There are basically two methods of booby-trapping a pipe. The first is very
similar to the chimney trap, except the intent is to blow off the smoker's
head. A small amount of tetryl or lead azide is placed in the mouthpiece of
the pipe, and a fuse is attached, which leads through the rest of the pipe to
a point about one-quarter-inch beneath the bowl. When the smoker lights the
pipe, the fuse will be lit, and burn down untouched, until it detonates the
explosives in the mouthpiece, and blows the smoker's head off.
The second method is a little more complex but just as effective. A
very sensitive explosive is placed in the mouthpiece, as before, except an
activated firing pin is placed in the stem of the pipe. The smoker will
attempt to light the pipe and find he cannot suck through it. Believing the
stem to be blocked with tar or nicotine, he will unscrew the threaded joint.
The act of unscrewing will release the firing pin, and detonate the
explosives.
[Cacodyal]
Since it is not feasible to make napalm in your kitchen, you will have to be
satisfied with cacodyal. This made by chemically extracting all the oxygen
from alcohol, and then replacing it, under laboratory controls, with metal
arsenic. The formula for alcohol is C4 H5 O, whereas for cacodyal it is
C4 H5 AR. Now, this new substance, cacodyal, possesses spontaneous
inflammability, the moment it is exposed to the air. Therefore it can be put
into a bottle and used like a Molotov Cocktail. If it is thrown, it will
explode on impact, but this is not its real advantage. When it explodes, a
dense white smoke is given off. This is white arsenic, a deadly poin. One
inhalation will probably cause death in a matter seconds.
[Molotov Cocktail]
This is an incendiary bomb, which bursts into flame on breaking. A
quart bottle is filled with 2/3 gasoline and 1/3 oil. A fuse is made of an
old gasoline-soaked rag, and then stuffed into the mouth of the bottle. The
bottle is corked, and the fuse is lit. It is thrown and, when it breaks, it
will burst into flame. The enemy will not be able to extinguish the fire with
water. These were used with varying degree of success in the struggle
in Hungary. According to some reports they can disable a tank.
[MOLOTOV COCKTAILS]
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now
exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make,
and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material,
such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid,
turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass
bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable
liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid
in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth
around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to
light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth
does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle
will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this
must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown
[Whistle Trap & Other Handy Devices]
A booby trap that has an effect similar to the one created by the
pipe trap, is the whistle booby trap. It is constructed by separating the
metal or plastic sides into their natural halves. This can be accomplished by
steaming. Now, fill each half one-fourth full of an extremely friction-
sensitive explosive. Before gluing the two halves together, include a small
ball made of a rough sandpaper-like substance (glue some sand together). When
the whistle is blown, the ball will bounce around inside the shell, creating
enough friction heat to set off the explosive charge.
An interesting booby trap can be constructed by using a bottle, full
of a highly sensitive liquid explosive, which will detonate on the extraction
of the cork. The cork is designed with a friction element that pulls through
a sensitive explosive. When this booby trap explodes, it does extensive
damage, due to the fragmentation of the glass.
An extremely simple device for setting a time-delay fire is a book of
matches, with a lighted cigarette stuck in it. This is then left upon
combustible material. The cigarette, as it burns down, will light the matches,
and they in turn will generate the heat necessary to ignite the other larger
combustible material.
Another incendiary time-delay device is constructed out of a candle,
friction matches, and several rags soaked either in gasoline or kerosene. The
candle is placed upright in the center of the bundle of matches. As the candle
burns down, it will ignite the matches, and they will ignite the rags. One can
usually expect about a fifteen-minute delay with this device.
[ ] * Trap Light Bulbs *
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead
light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked
in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case,
once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the
bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder. If the
glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base
with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient
to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that the
socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be
done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has been
used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the
room for a bomb without first turning on the light.
Materials:
-1 Light Bulb
-1 Gallon of gasoline
-1 Tube of Epoxy glue
-Liquid Soap
1. Place hole in the light bulb (See Below)
*
---
[ ]
[ ]
[ ]
*[ ]*
[ ]
[ ]
[ ]
[-----]
*-Mark where hole may be placed
2. Carefully pour some gasoline through the hole filling half the bulb
3. Carefully pour some liquid soap in to complete filling the bulb
4. Cover the hole with Epoxy glue
5. Make sure the switch is off and screw light bulb in socket, when the
switch is turned on. The bulb will explode sending sharp fragments of
glass all over...
[ ] * Pipe Bomb (Easy Version) *
Materials:
-1 Threaded steel pipe with caps on the ends
-1 Baby food or other small jar
-Some small rocks
-Some Baking Soda
1. Fill glass jar with Vinegar
2. Fit glass jar into steel pipe
3. Cap one end of pipe
4. Drop small rocks into pipe
5. Fill pipe with Baking Soda
6. Screw the other cap on tightly and then weld it shut. This is usually
used as an impact explosive, toss it on a hard surface, the contact will
break the jar, five to ten minutes later, it will explode
[*Pipe Bomb*]
Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both ends.
Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware stores. Drill a
1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a good drill bit.
Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end. Fill the
(pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack the powder.
Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want the powder
loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder sitting loose in
a very rigid container. Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or
threads of the pipe. Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a
small piece of tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape and
insert a two inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole.
Place the bomb behind a large rock or tree. Using thread or string, lightly tie
a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick
touch any objects. This might cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for
cover in a direction that keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all
times. Get behind cover at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large
explosion from such a small object. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will
fly through (the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill
you. This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of
the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe end caps. To make a big noise
without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill a 1/16 hole at the top
of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4 rounded teaspoonsful of
powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the powder. Toilet paper or
kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a safety pin and stick it
into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder so a fuse can be inserted.
When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous. You will loose your pipe
unless you brace it securely against (something. The pipe can be reloaded and
used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe pointing upward. Drop a tin can
over the open end and light the fuse. The can will be blown high into the air.
Campbell's soup cans are great for this.
[ ] * Nitro Explosive *
Materials:
-65% Nitric Acid
-20% Glycerine
-15% Sulfuric Acid
1. Mix these into solution form. This should explode by heat, impact or
fuse.
[ ] * Nitro Compound II *
Petroleum jelly and Potassium Chlorate in a 1:1 ratio by weight make a totally
safe when wet compound, but is highly explosive and shock sensitive when dry.
[ ] * Formulas For Ammonium Nitrate Compounds *
[1> Ammonium nitrate 60 [2> Ammonium nitrate 34
Potassium nitrate 29.5 Potassium nitrate 34
Sulfur flour 2.5 TNT 17
Charcoal powder 4 Ammonium chloride 15
Woodmeal 4
[4> Ammonium nitrate 70
[3> Ammonium nitrate 59 Ammonium sulfate 9
Woodmeal 10 Nitroglycerin 6
Nitroglycerin 10 Barium sulfate 7
Sodium chloride 20 Dextrin 8
Magnesium carbonate 1
[6> Ammonium nitrate 75
[5> Ammonium nitrate 88 Aluminum powder 25
Charcoal powder 12
[8> Ammonium nitrate 64
[7> Ammonium nitrate 94 TNT 15
Potassium nitrate 2 Sodium chloride 21
Charcoal powder 4
[10> Ammonium nitrate 35
[9> Ammonium nitrate 60 Potassium nitrate 33
Woodmeal 10 TNT 15
Nitroglycerin 10 Ammonium chloride 20
Sodium chloride 20
The formulas listed above are for high explosives. They are not for
cherry bombs or Roman candles. The ingredients that make up these formulas
have several functions: The first is the explosive agent itself, the second is
the stabilizing agent, and third is a texturizer (paraffin). Below are listed
the most important and common ingredients that are used to form an explosive
compound, and a description of their purpose and function.
[Ammonium Nitrate]: An extremely unstable, white explosive, usually in
crystalline form.
[Aluminum]: A silver metallic powder, when in pyro grade, it is a major
ingredient in many ammonal explosive compounds.
[Ammonium Oxalate]: A very valuable stabilizing agent, especially for nitro.
[Barium Nitrate]: Nitrated barium, in white crystalline powdered form.
[Charcoal Powder]: A fine black powder, which is extremely absorbent, and used
extensively in pyrotechnics.
[Guncotton]: Nitrated cellulose (sawdust) is fairly stable, but usually used
with other ingredients rather than alone. It is about 13-14% nitrogen.
[Naphthalene]: This is a sensitizing agent that is normally in a white
crystalline form.
[Paraffin]: This is a primary ingredient in plastique, and acts as a
texturizer.
[Potassium Nitrate]: An explosive compound in itself, which is stable. It is
usually in a white crystalline form.
[Potassium Perchloride]: A white powder used as an igniting agent in high
explosives. It is an extremely common ingredient in low explosives.
[Resin]: A gummy substance, which is flammable, and used in high explosives as
an igniting agent.
[Sodium Carbonate]: This white crystalline powder acts to neutralize acid,
which may make the explosive more unstable than it normally is.
[Sodium Chloride]: This is nothing more than ordinary table salt, and is used
as a cooling agent in many high explosives.
[Sodium Nitrate]: A stable explosive compound which has the advantage of
being water-absorbent.
[Sodium Sulfate]: A stabilizing powder, which is water-resistant.
[Starch]: This can be either potato or corn starch, and acts as an absorbent
in many explosive compounds.
[Sulfur]: A yellow crystalline powder, which should be used in flour form
only.
[Vaseline]: A clear petroleum jelly used in a similar manner as paraffin, as
a plasticizer, for many forms of exploding gelatins and plastic
explosives.
[ ] * Chlorox/Draino Bomb *
Materials:
-2 Jars with metal lids (Baby food)
-1 Bottle chlorox bleach
-1 Bottle of liquid draino
-1 Roll of electrical tape
Fill one of these jars with chlorox and the other with liquid draino. Screw
the lids on both jars and seal them tightly with electrical tape. Tape both
jars together and to ignite this bomb just throw upon a hard surface. The
bottles will break and an explosion will occur. The larger the bottles
(Jars) the larger the effect of the bomb.
[ ] * Soda Bomb/Poison Gas (2X Chlorine Gas Bomb) *
Materials:
-1 Box granulated pool chlorine
-1 Bag of sugar
-1 Bucket of water
-1 Two-liter soda bottle or other glass bottle
-1 Small glass jar with metal lid
Make a mixture of the following: 50% Chlorine, 50% Sugar
Put it in the bottle. Then fill the glass jar with water and put it in the
soda bottle. Throw this bomb at a hard surface, it'll create a explosion
and very harmful fumes.
[ ] * Incendiary Bomb *
First get a 16-Ounce returnable bottle, a tube of caulking, and a considerable
amount of gun powder. Pour the calking into an old pot and warm it over a nice
hot stove until it is plasma-like and gooey. Now, take an old strip of cloth
about 10" long X 3/4" wide. Dip it in the caulking so that it is completely
covered with the stuff. Place the strip in the bottle so as a little bit sticks
out the top. Pout in roughly 3/4 cup of gun powder into the bottom. Fill the
rest of the bottle up with the caulking, let dry, light the cloth. When the gun
powder explodes, it will spew out chards of glass and flaming strands of
caulking (similar to napalm)
[ ] * Coin Changer Fraud *
Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports, laudromats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar
bill?
1. Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise,
not the type where you put the bill in a tray then slide the tray in!!!
2. After finding the right machine get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling it
up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very
wrinkly surface.
3. Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side
about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (see figure)
4. If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out to the
machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is:
When you put your bill in, the machine thinks everything is fine. Where
it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will
reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at
the same time!!! So, you end up and get the bill back plus the change!!
It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can
become rich!!!
-----------------------------------
! !
! (1) (1) !
! --------- !
! ! ' ' ! !
! ! --- ! !
! (1) [] --------- (1) !
! !! -Washington- !
------[ ]----------------------
^^-----Make notch here. About 1/2 Down from (1)
or try 3.5 cm.
[ ] * Tennis Ball Bomb *
As we know, tennis is a popular sport around the world. In tennis you use
these hollow green balls known as tennis balls. What people do not know is that these wonderful little balls can be used for other things. They can be used as a handy little explosive or noise maker.
You will need the following.
1. A tennis ball (new if possible)
2. A knife
3. A box of matches (the type that will strike on anything
4. Epoxy Glue and Strong tape
First you take a knife and cut a small round hole on the tennis ball. Next
you will cut off the match heads of each match and drop them into the hole until the tennis ball is full of them. Make sure you do not drop the tennis
ball, because it will not be too fun to stay in the hospital. Apply epoxy
glue to the hole, then tape it up very well, so that it is air tight. Make
a few of these and one day when some geek is walking down the street or when
you want to get a big bang or attention, throw the ball. It is not to fun to
be where the ball lands. To make the explosion more powerful, you can use
gun powder mix. Have fun!!!
[ ] * Pop Machine Fraud *
Here is a way to rip off the coke machines you see out side of stores and
other places! ok first on all vending machines there are always those rouund
almost unpickable locks when no one is looking take a peice of air hardening
clayy (make sure it is only air hardening!) and press it into the lock real
good! then remove the clay carefully and put it somewhere to dry! make sure the
clay is TOTALY dry then go back in a day or so and you will have a key to fit
that lock put the key in and push and turn and presto the machine will open
allowing you to take all the money! a good machine will get you between 2100 and
300 dollars depending when it was last checked by the company. and best of all
if someone sees you just put the key on the ground and step on it and its
powder! and then you cant be busted because the evidence is blown away!
so that's it.
[ ] * Car Destruction *
Take an empty tyenol bottle and fill it with liquid draino. Make sure the lid is sealed good, so it doesn't leak out any liquid draino. Then slip the
bottle into the persons gas tank. What happens is the draino eats through
the bottle and hits the gas, a chemical reaction take place then Kaboom!!!
[ ] * making M-80 and M-100s *
FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a chemical mixture that burns so fast that it appears to burn
instantly, producing a bright flash of light.
Flash powder will produce an extremely loud explosion in amounts larger than
4 ounces even when it is not contained Very small amounts of flash powder will
produce a very loud explosion when contained, even in a container made of a few
layers of paper.
Flash powder is usually made from a very fine powdered metal that will burn and
an oxidizer. Powdered aluminum is used the most because it is cheaper.
Powdered magnesium and zinc will also work. The oxidizer can be Barium Nitrate,
This is a very deadly device. Carbide, when in contact with water, produces
the ultra-flammable acetylene gas.
Procedure: Fill about 1/3 of the jar with water. Next, cut out a piece of
cardboard that is roughly the diameter of the jar. Push this inside the jar
about 1/2 way. Don't let it touch the water! The cardboard should stay where
you put it if it's big enough. Now put some carbide onto the cardboard. You
don't want the carbide to touch the water. Cap the jar, and when ready, turn
it upsidown and shake it a little. The jar should violently explode shortly
thereafter. If you want, leave a burning rag next to the bottle and you'll
have a fireball. Have the rag lit before you shake the jar! Don't waste any
time next to the jar after shaking it! This is a very deadly bomb, and you
don't want to be its victim.
Observations: This is a very dangerous, yet spectacular bomb. Needless to
say, it's also quite loud. If you don't know where to get carbide, try a
good sporting goods store. It's used in some miner's lamps.
Chlorine Pressure Device:
=========================
Materials: Small-medium sized jar, 1 or 2 large test tubes, acid, bleach.
This is a fairly tricky bomb to make. Clorine is not a good gas to mess with
so use care with this device. Chlorine can blind you and damage your lungs.
Procedure: Fill one test tube with acid, and fill 1/3 of the jar with bleach.
Put the acid filled test tube in the jar and tape it to the side of the jar.
If your jar is large, you will want to fill two test tubes with acid. When
ready, cap the jar and turn it upside-down. Run to a nice viewing location
and watch the explosion! Don't go too near; chlorine is powerful stuff.
Observations: This pressure device not only makes a nice explosion, but
spreads chlorine around the area. Try to get a small jar and big test tubes
for this bomb. If you have a big jar and small test tubes, there won't be
enough pressure to cause an explosion
Phosgene Pressure Device:
=========================
Materials: Small-medium sized jar, 1 or 2 large test tubes, ammonia, bleach.
This bomb has the same setup as the chlorine bomb, but uses ammonia instead of
acid to react with the bleach. Phosgene is also a dangerous gas and was used
in World War I in chemical weapons.
Procedure: Use the same procedure as the chlorine device, but use ammonia
instead of acid. First, try putting the ammonia in the test tube and the
bleach in the jar. If that doesn't create enough pressure put the ammonia
in the jar and the bleach in the test tube.
Observations: This is almost identical to the chlorine bomb. The only
difference is that they make different gasses. These last two bombs are
not as reliable as other bombs in this manuscript, but you can experiment
to get the best results.
Radar Detectors!!!! Part one: Operation.
Police Radar works via the doppler effect, best
demonstrated by sound rather than microwaves. The doppler effect is the
relation of speed to the pitch of 'sound'. Sometime, all of you must have
had the distinct pleasure of being honked at by a motorist on the go,
you might have noticed that the horn <an F flat on most american cars>
begins with a higher pitch and as the car passes, drowns off to a lower
tone. The sound waves at the front of the car are pressed together by the
forward motion of the car, creating a higher pitch. As the car passes,
the tone dies off to a lower pitch because the waves are spread out.
Police radar works in much the same way. The major differences are the
frequency and the concentration of the carrier.
As of 1988, the F.C.C. is rumored to have lifted restrictions
on police radar frequencies. Before, only two frequencies were approved for
police radar use. X-band <10.525 GHz> which is most commonly used, and
K-band <24.15 Ghz>. I will assume for now, due to lack of any SOLID evidence
supporting the restriction lift, that those are the only two in operation.
Police radar 'beams' are similar in shape to a flashlight beam. They begin
with a thin width and cone outwards with distance. Most guns operating at
the X-band level have a range of about 2000 ft., although high power units
can exceed 2500 and 3000ft., and K-band guns fall shorter at about 1200 ft..
At 1500ft., the radar beam becomes about the width of four highway lanes, so
for practical purposes radars range is around 1700 ft.. A radar signal
transmitted from the 'Radar Gun's' transmitter, (called the oscillator) will
bounce off a object and return to the radar receiver (or antenna). If the
object is moving, the frequency of the beam will be altered as it bounces.
This is most easily visualized watching water ripples. Assume now that I
have just dropped a pebble in a pond, and the ripples are moving outward,
assume also for purposes of simplicity that the ripples are moving at
1 foot per second, and that they are one foot apart. The ripples are
therefore also one second apart. Upon bouncing off a stationary object
the ripples will return weakened, but at the same interval and speed
<Not really the same speed, but let's not complicate things>. Now let
us assume that a toy boat is traveling in the water at .5 ft. per second,
1/2 the speed of the ripples, away from the point which I dropped the
pebble. Assume the first ripple has hit the boat and is traveling back.
The second ripple now traveling at 1 foot per second is only gaining on the
boat by .5 feet per second <1 ft. per second - .5 ft. per second>. This means
that the ripple is one foot away from the boat, as the ripples are one foot
apart. The ripple will take 2 second to reach the boat, as the closure speed
is .5 ft. per second and the distance is 1 foot. The ripple strikes the boat
and bounces back two seconds after the first ripple. The process works
inversely for an object moving towards the pebbles point of impact.
As the distance between the ripples can be determined by the speed, on the
other side, the speed can be determined by the distance between the ripples.
Police radar works in the same way with microwaves. The microwave signal
bounces off a moving vehicle and returns altered in frequency. In this way
the radar unit determines the speed of the object. Radar is only accurate
when the object is moving directly at, or directly away from the gun,
although some modern guns will account for this 'COSINE error', most won't.
Cosine error can be defined as this: When a radar signal bounces off an
object at an angle from the objects direction of travel it will return a
portion of the objects speed computed by the cosine of the infraction
angle. If the angle of the objects direction and the radars direction is
20 degrees the speed returned by the radar is 93.97% of the objects
actual speed. cos (20) = .93969262 * objects speed = returned speed.
For example: A car is traveling at 75 m.p.h.. The state trooper, in his
infinite wisdom, decides to "Clock" the automobile in hopes of meeting his
quota for the month. Picking up his handy radar gun, he aims, and fires
an invisible beam of microwave energy. The officer however, being the rookie
he is, leaves a high angle between the cars direction and his beam of 45
degrees. Cos (45) = .707106781 .707106781 * 75m.p.h. = 53.03300859
53 m.p.h. is displayed on the officers screen. Lucky motorist.
Sorry 40 column users.
|
|\
| \
| \ - Cosine Error -
| \
| 45 \
| deg.\ - radar beam
| \
| \
v \
Direction of \
cars travel \
\
X - state trooper.
Part 2: Application
In 1986, over 15 million speeding tickets were issued,
and experts estimate that over 25% of them were in error. Police have
been using radar for speed control for many years, and as the technology
has become more complex and accurate, so has the ability to get away with
the slight infractions of the speed limits set by the government become more
difficult. In recent years, the three most damaging advances to motorists
in radar technology include: A> Instant on radar. B> K-band radar. and
C> Cosine error correcting radar units.
Instant on radar.
With the increase of radar receivers, or
"Detectors" on the roads, police have attempted to bypass the motorists
first line of defense. The most damaging advance in the war against speeding
motorists is instant on radar. The idea behind instant on radar is to make
the radar detector useless to the motorist by making his warning too late to
react to. Instant on radar was developed in early 1983, but never marketed
until late 1984 when the michigan state troopers were equipped with the first
instant on radar guns. It operates by deactivating the oscillator until
triggered by the officer. When used properly and under the right traffic
conditions, it is indefensible. It works like a camera, the officer
operating the radar will position himself behind a blind corner or over a
hill. When the approaching car crests the hill or rounds the corner, the
officer will activate the oscillator, taking a "snapshot" of your car.
As microwaves travel at the speed of light, any attempt at slowing down
is futile, the officer behind the gun has your speed in less than a tenth
of a second.
K-band Radar.
When radar detectors were first marketed by
the markers of ESCORT, there was only one type of radar. X-band.
In an attempt to increase the dwindling speeding ticket revenue, K-band
was brought to life. K-band is a different frequency that could not be
picked up by the primitive detectors of the age. However, as the
frequency got out, the detectors adapted, and now any detector worth a dollar
will detect both X and K bands. K band is more dangerous as most K-band
guns are instant on and they have less 'Splash' and range than X-band guns.
This means that a K-band signal is probably closer to you.
Cosine error correcting guns.
Cosine error was a major falling of radar
in the judicial system, all readings were under question in court, the
result was a gun which will correct for cosine error by determining the
angle which the radar beam "impacts" with the car. Also new in correcting cosine error were guns with 'Speed lock on' in which the highest speed reading
received by the gun is locked in and displayed.
Moving radar guns.
Until new developments, all radar units
had to remain stationary as radar measures only closure speed, and not actual
speed. Moving radar ended this trend. Moving radar works like this. First the radar gun determines the patrol cars speed by clocking a sign or fixed
object. The closing speed of the patrol car to the sign is subtracted from
the now taken closing speed to the target car.
Patrols speed - 60 m.p.h.
Closing speed to car - 120 m.p.h.
120 m.p.h. - 60 m.p.h. = 60 m.p.h..
Part 3: Defense
From the dawn of speed enforcement, motorists have sought
to defeat the laws, starting with detectors, continuing to jammers and
topping out with the new 'CHiPs detectors' The unfortunate conditions
now favor the police and law enforcement officials with the introduction
of new radar technologies such as instant on radar.
Detectors:
The simple radar receiver is the first line of
defense from radar. Varied in operation and features, the radar detectors
of today are designed to provide high sensitivity and low rates of false
alarms. Good detectors will measure signal strength and type <K or X>
and have an effective range of about 3000 ft. and a probable range of well
over a mile. Sensitivity tops out around 110.5 dBm/cm^2 for X band and
108 dBm/cm^2 for K band <Both set by the passport>. A detector can give
you an excellent advantage over radar by alerting you it's there. Detectors
become especially useful in chicago where instant on radar is not typically
used.
Jammers:
Radar jammers are essentially units that
transmit microwaves at a frequency dictating a certain speed. The result is
regardless of your speed, the police radar unit will display the speed you
set the jammer to transmit. Jammers are highly illegal and will be
confiscated if discovered, expect a stiff fine.
Chip's detector.
This is a new device, which is really a scanner
on the police radio band. It takes advantage of a signal transmitted by the
patrol cars in some states as part of their dispatch system. The signal
carries for about three miles, and the Chip's Detector will alert you if you
are within that range of a highway patrol unit. It also allows scanning
of police radio channels.
Last words.
Radar is a basically accurate instrument, when used
properly, it can be deadly. As I have said before instant on radar is
impossible to avoid when there is no other traffic around, regardless of
a detector. The only thing that comes close is a Radar Jammer, which
will most likely not serve you well unless it is WELL hidden. Radar
jammers are dangerous with the introduction of the HAWK, a radar unit by
Kustom Signals, which DETECTS radar jammers in the hold mode.
Aside from radar, VASCAR
<Visual average speed computer and recorder>
is a new danger to motorists. It is basically a stopwatch
used to time your movement between two point of which the interval distance
is known. Using the formula Average velocity = distance / time, the state
trooper can determine your speed without setting off your detector.
Instant on radar defense.
The only real defense for instant on radar
is traffic. Traffic will cause the trooper to activate his radar gun more
often, cluing you into his presence. A jammer well hidden will help,
but the best technique is to follow a car making good time. Any police
units in the area will clock him first, and legally they have to ticket him,
unless you're too close.
Remember:
Do not speed, it is a dangerous practice, and I can not be responsible
for any injury, or action due to this file, it is for informational
purposes only. The state troopers enforce speed limits for your
safety.
Radar guns: Models.
Radar guns are manufactured by many different
companies, but the primary ones are Kustom Signals, M.p.h. Industries, and Decatur.
The deadliest gun now available is the HAWK
manufactured by Kustom Signals. It is the first gun capable of clocking
cars moving the SAME direction as the patrol car. It has two antennas, one
forward, and one back. Like I stated before, it is also the first gun capable
of detecting radar jammers. These run about 2000$
Kr-11
This gun is a two piece model which uses
a weak pulse signal in the moving mode to determine the patrol car's speed
while not triggering detectors. This gun permits a faster clocking time for
instant on moving radar, it runs about $1200
Falcon
This is a hand held gun operating on K band
Small and compact it is preferred among law enforcement radars. It runs about
Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...If you do this
right, it will help you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a
lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside
the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when
you lock it. To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the
desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting
the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock
without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps
when ya don't know the combination to begin with). First of all, ya need to
find a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will have one.
If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something together... If she says
use a rubberband or use a paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and then go to
the store and rip off a box of 50 or so. Once you have your hair pin (make sure
its metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make
a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle.
Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should
do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so
you can pick various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even have
ta file! But most are not. Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't
figured it out, here's how ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side the
lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides.
When ya find out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the
filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the
lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing
down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open
because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open
it. Don't say bullshit until you've tried it. Because I have gotten lots of
beer money from doin' this to fellow students' gym lockers. Also, this
technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock
before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let
me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya
can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable up, use a
Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure there aren't
that many that could. And when I say pick, i don't mean lighting a stick of
dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without using force, making
a substitute key, etc...
Picking Master Locks
Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Master
combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has
made this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it
hard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on to
it.
1st number. Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on.
1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get the combination),
pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on it
turn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to this
number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number.
2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times,
then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the 1st
number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and turning it.
It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull on
it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if it's stiff you
got the second number.
3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2 numbers,
then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on it. The lock
will eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the first time, be
patient, it takes time.
----------------------------------------
PYROTECHNICAL
DELIGHTS
----------------------------------------
MANY OF YOU OUT THERE PROBABLY HAVEFANTASIES OF REVENGE AGAINST TEACHERS,
PRINCIPALS AND OTHER PEOPLE WHO ARE JUSTASSHOLES. DEPENDING ON YOUR LEVEL OF
HATRED OF THIS PERSON I WOULD ADVISE THAT YOU DO SOME OF THESE FOLLOWING
EXPERIMENTS:
(1) POURING DISHSOAP INTO THE GAS TANK OF YOUR ENEMY- MANY OF YOU ALREADY
KNOW THAT GASOLINE + DISHSOAP(E.G. JOY, PALMOLIVE, ETC.) FORM A MIXTURE CALLED
NAPALM. NOW NAPALM IS A JELLY-LIKE SUBSTANCE USED IN BOMBS, FLAMETHROWERS,
ETC. NOW YOU CAN ONLY GUESS WHAT THIS MIXTURE WOULD DO TO SOMEONE'S FUEL LINE!
(2) SPREADING DIRTY MOTOR OIL/CASTOR OIL ON SOMEONE'S EXHAUST PIPE- WHEN THE EXHAUST PIPE HEATS UP(AND IT WILL!!)THE MOTOR OIL OR CASTOR OIL ON THE PIPE WILL CAUSE THICK, DISGUSTING SMOKE TO OOZE FORTH FROM THE BACK OF THAT CAR. WHO KNOWS MAYBE
HE/SHE MIGHT BE PULLED OVER AND GIVEN A TICKET!!
FUN WITH ALARMS
A FACT I FORGOT TO MENTION IN MY PREVIOUS ALARM ARTICLES IS THAT ONE CAN ALSO
USE POLYURETHANE FOAM IN A CAN TO SILENCE HORNS AND BELLS. YOU CAN PURCHASE
THIS AT ANY HARDWARE STORE AS INSULATION. IT IS EASIER TO HANDLE AND DRIES
FASTER.
MANY PEOPLE THAT TRAVEL CARRY A POCKET ALARM WITH THEM. THIS ALARM IS A SMALL
DEVICE THAT IS HUNG AROUND THE DOOR KNOB, AND WHEN SOMEONE TOUCHES THE KNOB HIS
BODY CAPACITANCE SETS OFF THE ALARM. THESE NASTY NUISENCES CAN BE FOUND BY
WALKING DOWN THE HALLS OF A HOTEL AND TOUCHING ALL THE DOOR KNOBS VERY QUICKLY.
IF YOU HAPPEN TO CHANCE UPON ONE, ATTACH A 3' LENGTH OF WIRE OR OTHER METAL
OBJECT TO THE KNOB. THIS WILL CAUSE THE SLEEPING BUSINESS PIG INSIDE TO THINK
SOMEONE IS BREAKING IN AND CALL ROOM SERVICE FOR HELP. ALL SORTS OF FUN AND
GAMES WILL ENSUE.
SOME HIGH-SECURITY INSTALATIONS USE KEYPADS JUST LIKE TOUCH-TONE PADS (A
REGISTERED TRADE MARK OF BELL SYSTEMS) TO OPEN LOCKS OR DISARM ALARMS. MOST
USE THREE OR FOUR DIGITS. TO FIGURE OUT THE CODE, WIPE THE KEY-PAD FREE FROM
ALL FINGERPRINTS. AFTER IT HAD BEEN USED JUST APPLY FINGER PRINT DUST AND ALL
FOUR DIGITS WILL BE MARKED. NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS FIGURE OUT THE ORDER.
IF YOU WANT TO HAVE SOME FUN WITH A KEYPAD, TRY PRESSING THE * AND # AT THE
SAME TIME. MANY UNITS USE THIS AS A PANIC BUTTON. THIS WILL BRING THE OWNER
AND THE COPS RUNNING AND EVERYONE WILL HAVE A GOOD TIME. NEVER TRY TO REMOVE
THEM FROM THE WALL, AS THEY ALL HAVE TAMPER SWITCHES.
ON THE SUBJECT OF HOLDUPS, MOST PLACES (INCLUDING SUPER-MARKETS, LIQUER STORES,
ETC.) HAVE WHAT IS KNOWN AS A MONEY CLIP. THESE LITTLE NASTIES ARE PLACED AT
THE BOTTOM OF A MONEY DRAWER AND WHEN THE LAST FEW BILLS ARE WITH-DRAWN A
SWITCH CLOSES AND SETS THE ALARM OFF. THAT'S WHY WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WITHDRAWL
IT'S BEST TO HELP YOUR-SELF SO YOU CAN CHECK FOR THESE LITTLE NASTIES. IF YOU
FIND THEM, MERELY INSERT ONES UNDERNEATH THE PILE OF TWENTIES, AND THEN PULL
OUT THE TWEN-TIES, LEAVING THE ONE-DOLLAR BILL BEHIND TO PREVENT THE CIRCUIT
FROM CLOSING.
IF YOU SHOPLIFT AND SEE CAMERAS, LOOK AT THE BRAND. IF IT IS SURVEILLANCE
VIDEO SYSTEMS (SVS) YOU NEED NOT WORRY. THESE CAMERAS LOOK REALISTIC TO THE
POINT OF PILOT LIGHTS, COAX, AND SCANNING. HOWEVER, THEY ARE ONLY EMPTY BOXES.
Preparation of TNT
1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric
acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker, prepare
another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid
(percentages are on a weight ratio rather than volume).
2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed
in an ice bath.
3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes.
4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50
degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated.
5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and the
temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin to
form on the top of the acid.
6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and
cooled to 45 begrees C> when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will
sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. At this point, the remaining acid
solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe.
7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid
while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this
temperature is reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour.
8. At the end of this period, he solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees C>,
and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this, the
acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the bottem.
9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently
heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accoumplished slowly
and gently.
10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid solution
are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 dgregrees C> to 104 degrees C.,
and is held for three hours.
11.After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. and
held there for a half hour.
12.After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with
boiling water.
13.After the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the TNT
will begin to solidify.
14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so
that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good quality
TNT.
NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and must be
used as such. DO NOT estimate or use aproximations. Buy a good centigrade
thermometer.
TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE
--------------------------
1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium
permanganate in a tin can.
2) add glycerine
3) wait 3-4 min.
4) get the hell out.. the stuff will
smoke, then burst into flame..
** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple]
** the reaction will spatter a bit, it can be messy...
** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts]
ALUMINUM KILLER (OVERNIGHT)
---------------
silver iodide --> aluminum iodide
+ aluminum + silver
..or..
AgI + Al --> Ag + AlI
ALUMINUM IODIDE is very hydroscopic -- it will absorb water [it will even
absorb water out of the air!]
SILVER IODIDE eats through aluminum -- the resulting aluminum iodide will
>disolve itself< as it aborbs H20 from the air!
The final result is aluminum with a wet hole in it. [the wetness is AlI
solution]
Natural gas flows through millions of miles of piplines in the U.S. One
charge will blow up a gas pipeline along miles of its length since the
air let into the pipeline by the explosion will cause secondary explosions.
Of 65 pipelines,24 carry 97% of the gas which accounts for more than one-third
of the nation's total energy supply. Only 4 pipelines connects the gas
fields in the South and Southwest to New York and Los Angeles. Maps of the
lines can be obtanied from the Department of Energy and by studying industry
journals.
Oil pipelines can be destroyed by penetrating the central pipeline control
system. In one Southern city, which controls oil movement in several states.
Yikes! And contrary to the argument advanced by some self-styled specialists
and the news media that few possess the technological expertise to use
weapons of mass destruction, it is much much easier than you think.
There's a book giving location,published in the New York Times,Feb 1979,
two large map pinpointing every power station and transmission line from
Washington to the Canadian border. Blowing up some of these stations and
lines would wipe out the electrical supply of the East Coast.
For another example, the a Book called 'Basement Nukes, $6.95, by
some guy named, Charles Clark. Title of the book is :
Technological Terrorism $10.00
Clark shows how they canb be readily obtained by theft from inefficently
guarded nuclear plants and armories. Both of the above mentioned books
are readily available to anyone with the buck, how sad,huh...shit!
Technological Terrorism is a nightmare scenario,and a serious warning to
every one of us.
That really screws up the old head.
EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES
INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is
the attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know
you would like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so
here is how to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you
how Dupont does it or how the anchient Chineese did it but not how you can do
it with the resourses and materials available to you. Even army manuals on
field expedient explosives are almost useless because they are just outlines
written with the understanding that an instructor is going to fill in the
blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together
to make something go "boom". You can find what you need in grocery stores,
hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting point to remember is that
it is much easier to make a big explosion than a small one. It is very
difficult for a home experimenter to make a firecracker, but a bomb capable
of blowing the walls out of a building is easy. The king of explosives for the
do-it-yourselfer is black powder. It is easy to make and when properly confined
is capable of devestating power. CLOSEINFORM ootable powder used for
spraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under the
name Flowers of Sulfur. If you use Nitrate of Soda, it will be in the form
of prills (little round beads). Bake it in an oven at 250 degrees for 10-15
minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender and
switch it on. It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag
of charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag
and pound with hammer. Dump the result into the blender, grind, then strain
through a tea strainer. Mix by volume: 6 parts potassium or Sodium Nitrate, 2
parts powdered charcoal, 1 part sulfur. This mixture will burn if ignited and
will explode if ignited while tightly confined. It can be greatly improved,
however, by processing it as follows: Moisten with water until it will stick
together when pinched between thumb and finger. Press it into a disposable
aluminum pie pan. Bake in a preheated oven at 250 degrees for about 30
minutes--get it totally dry. Grind into as fine a powder as possible. A mortar
and pestle is best. If you use a blender at this point, there is a
danger of explosion. It is not very sensative to friction or impact, but is
very sensative to sparks. If you followed these directions, you should
have a fine slate-grey powder.
When baking black powder, remember to preheat the oven. Place your pie pan
approximately in the center of the oven. Do not set it on the bottom of
the oven. These warnings are to prevent hot spots that could ignite the powder
causing a fire or explosion. Something went wrong once when my father-in-law
was doing this and it blew the door right off the oven. His training in
military demolitions included field expedient explosives. The point is that
things can go wrong even when you know what you are doing. Protect yourself at
all times. Use common sense. Wear safety glasses; don't stand in front of
oven, etc. HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE: Take a flat piece of plastic or metal
(brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th
inch hole through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses
as big as you want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will be
getting to later. To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin
paste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton
thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these
together until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can
be drawn through very easily. Tie your bundle of threads together at one end.
Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture.
Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the
mixture. Press them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering
them so they coil into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it
through the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long motion. To dry
your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250
degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse
must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later.
Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even
dry completely at room temperatures. Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2
inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this fuse carefuly to
avoid breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have any
available. The fuses can usually be pulled out without breaking. To give
yourself some running time, you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch or
firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK: Use heavy
cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden
supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by
lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is removed and
when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a
small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees.
It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it
is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted
sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to
cool and harden. It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches
is about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not
blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a
metal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw
off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length
causing unpredictable burning times. Now you have the basic ingredients to
shake the earth like thunder. In the next installment or two, I will tell
you how to put it all together to do just that. You will find that you have
baked a very deadly pie. I have twice been accused of setting off dynamite in
the woods. The explosive power of your little grey powder may exceed your
expectations, so choose your testing ground with care.
HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL:
This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume Potassium
or Sodium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of this into a pile.
Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step back. This is also
a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest a lot of experiments
for this. ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL: Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and
sulfur. Watch out if you experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash.
It is not a powerful explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined
because of its fast burning rate. --- As I continue from this point some of the
ingredients are going to be harder to get without going through a chemical
supply. I try to avoid this. I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific
has been instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying
chemicals in certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy
Sulfuric acid, Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the
police would be notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the
things you need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave
out something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient.
I am guessing you would prefer it that way.
HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID
Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should only
cost a few dollars (about 4 dollars). What you will get is about a gallon of
dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container.
The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal
container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid
until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the
hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass
container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no
metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb moisture
from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time bomb that
doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and
follow me into the next installment.
HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE:
To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts by
volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of
the mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a
spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid
in the depression and step back. It will snap and crackle a few times and
then burst into vigorous flames. To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a
plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece of cotton in one end. On top of
this put about an inch of the clorate/sugar mixture. Now lightly tamp
in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this
with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric acid. After a few
minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite the mixture. The time
delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying how tightly
it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react with cotton
and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the side of the
straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and used to set
off the device of your choice. Potassium chlorate was very popular
with the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide variety of
explosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to handle. The
radicals lost several people that way.
HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUSE:
Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on
the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the
bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black
powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the
fillament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.
ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUSE:
Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it
to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns
and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire.
You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a
good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type
used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in the
center and press it flat. place the wires so the steel strand is on top of
and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the
strand. The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything
else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact
with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and
fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the
powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the
other. A single flashlight battery will set this off.
ELECTRIC FUSE # 3:
An excellent electric fuse can be bought ready made at hobby and toy stores.
They are sold for setting off model rockets.
How to get Revenge on Someone
-----------------------------
Everyone has an enemy that they would like to seek revenge on without the
victim knowing who the aggressor is. Here are ways that have been proven
effective in the field of harrasing and/or annoying someone.
Call the news papers, and adverise an arctile similar to this: "You too
can make calls free through MCI, ITT, and other long distance services just
by making a local call. For more information, send a self-adressed
stamped envlope to:(fill in name and adress with zip code)" After this has
appeared in the papers, inform your local FBI agent or police officer of
his ad. You can also advertise an ad like this: "Apple //e, 128k, 2 disk
drives, Amdek Color 3 Monitor, Hayes Smartmodem 1200, and much more. $750
or best offer. (phone number)".
Another prank is to call house at all hours, and post on all boards that a
new bulletin board is opening up at his number. Get everyone you know to
call him at all times (preferably late at night. Call answering machines,
and give the persons number and tell them to call right away. Also during
the day you can look up people in the phone that have a "Mr. and Mrs." there,
and the wife will probably be home, but not the husband, so tell the wife to
tell the husband to call your victim as soon as possible and give number.
There are many ways to thrash someones car. But they basicly fall under
2 topics. These are, 1 to just fuck it up and 2, to distroy it. As long
as your at it don't for get to steal the stero & speakers.
The following are type 1 tricks to pull of on someones car.
Sweet-Gas: This involves taking the gas cap off of you victums car. If it
--------- is a locking cap break it off. Or you might pry it off, resort to
"Jocky Boxin" by Mr. Zeek if un fimiler with these tecniqes. Once you have
the gas cap off pour 4 or 5 pounds of white sugar in there gas tank. Now
when the start there car up and drive away they will go about 2 miles or so
then the car will crap out and they will have to pay some $'s to get it fixed.
Sweet-Oil: In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in there oil
--------- spout. if yu have time you might remover the oil plug first and
drain some of the oil out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the
effects but I am sure that I did some damage.
Slow Air: Ok, sneak yp the victums car and poke a small hole some where
-------- in 2 of his/her tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is
small but there then there tire will go flat some where on the road. You
could slice the tire so this is blows out on the road wih a rasor blade.
Cut a long and fairly deep (don't cut a hole) and peel a little bit of the
rubber back and cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a
possible blow out at a high speed if your lucky.
Vanishing Paint: Spead a little gas or paint thiner on the victums car
--------------- and this will make his paint run and fade. Vodca will eat
the paint off and so will a little 190. Eggs work great on pain if they
sit there long enough.
Key Paint: Run you car keys/can opener along there car and scrach a long
--------- strip off. It'll really piss 'em off and everyone can see it.
All-Lock: You go up to the dudes car, right. And then super glue the
-------- the door lock and door handle where the car can't be opened.
Loose Wheel: Losen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon
----------- fall off. This can really fuck some one up if they are cruzing
when the tire falls off.
Ok, thats some of the begginer shit...now if your really out to get this dude
try some of these....
First, pause and take a bong hit...........
No name for this one. but where you pour oil into the engin, pour some
sand, this will scar the head and pushrodes and possible scrach the fuck out
of the cylinder.
Dual Nutral: This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have
----------- there off. (On the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now
throw some screws, blots, nuts and assorted things in there and replace
the cover. At this point you could chip some of the teeth off the gears.
Un-Midaser: Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts
---------- on there exauset so that it hangs low and will fall off soon.
They will be in town and there exaust will fall off. This method also
works on tranys but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the
harder you work the more you fuck them over.
Draino Bomb: (Idea from Baby Demon) Get a little plasistc orange thingy
----------- that you get from you local drugest. And fill this with liquid
draino. Now re-cap and place inside vicuum gas tank. When the gs easts
through the plasic...look out. this has not been tried by anyone that I
personly know. But what the well, your a terrorists
(*-> Another way is to get a ping-pong ball and cut a small hole in it, now
fill the ball up with liquid dranio and seal the hold with tape. Now drop
the ball in someone gas tank and n about 40secs...BOOM!
---------------------------------------
HOW TO MAKE A REALLY NICE PIPE BOMB OUT OF EVERYDAY MATERIALS.
UPLOADED BY THE GRAY MOUSER.....
1) GO TO YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE AND TELL THE GUY THAT IS HELPING YOU
THAT YOU WANT A PIECE OF STEEL PIPE ONE FOOT LONG. AND ALSO THAT YOU WANT
THE ENDS THREADED AND YOU ALSO WANT CAPS TO PUT ON THE END.
2) NOW GET AHOLD OF A BABYFOOD JAR. MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR WILL FIT DOWN
THE PIPE REAL EASY LIKE. FILL THE BABYJAR WITH EVERYDAY VINEGAR. MAKE
SURE THE TOP IS SCREWED ON REAL TIGHT. **IF IT IS LOOSE YOU WILL BLOW YOUR
HAND OFF**
3)NOW CAP ONE END OF YOUR PIPE WITH ONE OF THE CAPS THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE
PICKED UP WITH THE PIPE. IF YOU KNOW OF SOMEONE WITH A WIELDER, HAVE HIM
WIELD A BEAD AROUND THE THREADS AFTER YOU HAVE IT CAPPED.
4)PUT SOME SMALL SHARP ROCKS DOWN THE END OF THE PIPE AND THEN SLIDE THE
BABYJAR DOWN INSIDE SO THE GLASS END IS AGAINST THE LITTLE ROCKS. NOW
EMPTY A MEDIUM BOX OF ARM AND HAMMER BAKING SODA INTO THE PIPE. CAP THE
OTHER END OF THE PIPE AND IF YOU CAN WIELD IT, THEN GO FOR IT.
**BE FUCKING CAREFUL** YOU MIGHT BREAK THE JAR INSIDE AND YOU WON'T
KNOW THAT YOU BROKE IT UNTIL YOU SEE YOUR HAND FLY OFF!!!
5)NOW, WHEN YOU WANT TO BLOW SOMETHING UP, JUST SMACK THE END OF THE PIPE
THAT SENDS THE JAR INSIDE DOWN AGAINST THE SMALL ROCKS. OH YEAH, SMACK IT
AGAINST SOME CONCREAT. THIS BREAKS THE JAR AND THE VINEGAR AND BAKING
SODA MIX TOGETHER AND BUILDS UP PRESSURE. WHEN IT GETS TO THE
CRITICAL POINT....WHAMMY!!!!
******IMPORTANT******
AFTER YOU HIT THE PIPE AGAINST THE GROUND, GET THE HELL RID OF IT!!!
TOSS IT INTO SOMEONES CAR OR SOMEWHERE. SOMETIMES. IT TAKES FIVE MINUTS FOR
IT TO GO OFF, SOMETIMES TWO. BUT IT WILL GO OFF! TRUST ME!
I DID THIS WHEN I WAS LIVING IN ARIZONA. MY FREIND THAT TAUGHT ME
THIS WAS A DEMOLITIONS EXPERT FOR THE NAVY.
THE FIRST TIME I DID IT. WE TOSSED THE PIPE INTO AN OLD HOUSE AND IT BLEW ALL FOUR WALLS OUT!! THE SECOND TIME WE DID IT, WE TOSSED IT INTO AN OLD CAR. AND IT PHUKING BLEW ALL FOUR DOORS OFF AND THE ROOF THREE FEET INTO THE AIR!!!!
WHEN WE BLEW UP THE HOUSE, WE WAITED FIVE MINUTS AND I THOUGHT THAT IT
WOULDN'T GO OFF. SO I CRAWLED OUT OF THE DITCH THAT WE WERE IN. WHAMMY!!
JUST THEN IT WENT OFF! IT THREW ME BACK FIVE FEET BACK INTO THE DITCH!
IF YOU FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS REAL CAREFULLY. THEN YOU WON'T GET HURT.
I WILL TALK TO YOU ALL LATER. AND TELL ME WHAT YOU HAVE BLOWN UP!!!
^___^
* *
^
--\ /--
"
XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX
Xx American Dynamite xX
XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX
Recipe:
Mix 170 parts tolulene with 100 parts acid. The acid made of 2 parts of 70%
nitric and 3 parts of 100% sulfuric. Mix below 30 degrees. Set this down for
30 min. and let it separate. Take the mononitrotolulene and mix 100 part of it
with 215 parts of acid. This acid is 1 part pure nitric and 2 parts pure
sulfuric. Keep the temperature at 60- 70 degrees while they are slowly mixed.
Raise temp to 90-100 and stir for 30 min. The dinitrotoluene is separated and
mix 100 parts of this stuff with 225 parts of 20% oleum which is 100% sulfuric
with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 65 parts nitric acid. Heat at
95 degrees for 60 min. Then at 120 degrees for 90 min.
Separate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water. Purify the
powder by soaking it in benzyne.
Presto! American Dynamite!
============================
How to Make Ammonium Nitrate
============================
Some Militants who don't have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate. This
can be bought by anyone at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag. It is fertilizer.
Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to 14,000 feet per second. It is
roughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro.
The fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the ratio of
one pint of oil to 8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate. This has to be detonated
with a stick of gelatin dynamite [I didn't say all was easy. Try to find
another file about that crap.].
Purified ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite cap.
The pure stuff can be bought at chemical supply houses or the fertilizer grade
can be purified with distilled wood alcohol.
Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan. Pour in
enough wood alcohol (methanol) to cover the fertilizer. Then stir it until a
lot of it has dissolved. Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow the
impurities to settle to the bottom along with the undissolved ammonium nitrate.
Another pan is set on some pieces of dry ice for the next step. Dry ice
can be found in the business section of the phone book under "Dry Ice." Locker
companies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small amounts.
The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan. This is done
carefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitrate
behind.
The dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out of the
solution in crystals. When no more crystals are formed they are removed from
the alcohol.
The alcohol is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to dissolve
any ammonium nitrate left undissolved. After setting a few minutes the
solution is again poured off the dregs and the dregs are thrown away. When the
last batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored and reused.
The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are harmless
unless they are enough to replace the air. Don't handle the dry ice with your
bare hands [unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone] as its cold
will cause blisters.
In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap, it
must be very dry. Spread it out under a heat lamp ir in thte sun. When
completely dry, store it in tightly closed plastic bags.
