Hello! Welcome to the BHU's Cookbook v1.0! I hope that this collection of text files has enough info to keep you hackers busy for awhile (at least until the next update!). As I gather information I will keep adding it and uploading it to my "home base" bbs's in different cities with additional numbered files and an updated index that you can just replace the old one with.
Thanks for taking the time to read this file by the way. There are a few things that I want to say about the Cookbook.
1) If I ever find out that anyone has omitted my name from anywhere in these files without my expressed permission then I will immediately stop doing any updates and I will release your name to as many boards that I can find urging them to put you on their Black List. I also will FIND YOU! (I think you can see from the knowledge base contained in this collection that I DO possess the capability! You will wish it were the FEDS and not me!) In other words be careful who you give this collection to. Of course there are idiots (probably the same ones who write viruses!) that will misuse this information and kill some people or get themselves & you into a lot of trouble! So keep this treasure chest buried and only dig it up for those that you can TRUST! Also you would be screwing yourself because I still have all kinds of things that I can put in here for updates and you will NEVER see them if I quit updating because of some asshole. So think about it. If you WANT the updates (info you would probably have a helluva time finding elsewhere!) then STAY COOL with it.
2) I was going to encrypt these files and load/print them from within an encrypted program. However I have decided against that for these reasons:
a) It would then be machine-exclusive
b) It would show that I don't trust you.
c) Only Atari ST users would ever see it.
So I decided on keeping it ASCII. ANY machine that can read ASCII files can now read these.
3) Please do not use my handle to gain access to boards. you never know where I might show up and I will have to find you and deal with you if I ever see it. Don't make me do this.
4) By releasing this database I am taking a real chance on you people. I sure as hell don't want MY house blown up with a paint or Solidox bomb! And I am sure that you don't want yours blown up either (or your credit cards used for that matter). So I have to stress again: BE FUCKING CAREFUL WHO YOU GIVE THIS TO!!
That is all for now. If I ever have to update this it will just be in the update archive as file 000.doc. Just replace the old one.
Enjoy this database! A lot more to come!!! -The BHU-
Before reading this article it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing for this is the method used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.
Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure" which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand photo offset printing comes into the process.
Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives commonly called "flats" are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.
The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides touch out all the green which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching because it is all one color. Now make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way every time you need another serial number shoot 1 negative of the portrait side cut out the serial number and remove the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one.
Now you have all 3 flats and each represents a different color: black and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate. Burn it move it up to the next mark and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that and do the same thing 2 more times moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill.
The paper you will need will not match exactly but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air buckle and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then while that is printing mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by now but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water 4 tea bags and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments and dye all the bills. Also it is a good idea to make them look used. For example wrinkle them rub coffee grinds on them etc.
As before mentioned unless you are familiar with photo offset printing most of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond".
If all of this seems too complicated to you there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color including US currency. But once again the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So experiment and good luck!
For most of you out there money is hard to come by. Until now:
With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards) it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life. The stakes are high but the payoff is worth it.
Step One: Getting the credit card information
First off you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can next to the register or for the more daring in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But due to the large amount of credit card fraud many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet making things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy.
First look up someone in the phone book and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then during business hours call in a very convincing voice - "Hello this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent purposes so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course use your imagination! Believe it or not many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information.
Now assuming that you have your victim's credit card number you should be able to decipher the information given.
Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies
Card examples:
[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers
XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX and is covered for up to $5000.00 even if the card holder is broke.
[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new and the
second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of
these cards in circulation but many of these are on wanted lists so check these first.
[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
Visa is the most abundant card and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG" or
followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:
[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card
Preferred Cards are backed with money and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer harder to reproduce cards with
decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX 4254 5123 6000
XXXX and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit Union cards and are risky to use although
they are usually covered for large purchases.
Step Three: Testing credit
You should now have a Visa Mastercard or American Express credit card number with the victim's address zip code and phone number. By the way if you have problems getting the address most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a phone number at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money) and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number give the credit information and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number in a calm voice read off the account number merchant number amount and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is ok and will give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down and repeat it back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely for it serves no real purpose. However once you do this the bank removes dollars equal to what you told them because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course some will not allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels".
Step Four: The drop
Once the cards are cleared you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites:
[1] An empty house
An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS and leave a note on the door saying "UPS. I work days 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale and tell them you will check out the area. Do so until you find one that suits your needs.
[2] Rent A Spot
U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the package arrives.
[3] People's houses
Find someone you do not know and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people.
Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time UPS will not deliver to a post office box and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also when you have determined a drop site keep an eye on it for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before.
Step Five: Making the transaction
You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information and a good drop site.
The best place to order from is catalogues and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now when you call don't try to disguise your voice thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this so your best bet is to order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name name as it appears on card phone number billing address expiration date method of shipping and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival) because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express you might have a bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also if the salesperson starts to ask questions do NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation so you won't encourage investigation on the order.
If everything goes right you should have the product free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab and no one is any wiser. Be careful and try not to order anything over $500. In some states UPS requires a signature for anything over $200 not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this and you will bite it for a couple of years. Good luck!
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades land mines and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate which can be extracted by the procedure that follows.
First off you must obtain:
[1] A heat source (hot plate stove etc.)
[2] A hydrometer or battery hydrometer
[3] A large Pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
[4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach place it in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celsius. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder and heat gently to drive off all moisture.
Now melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally place this explosive into a cool dry place. Avoid friction sulfur sulfides and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore- mentioned compounds (sulfur sulfides etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this article.
You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by writing:
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard the knob will not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get the combination right) turn the knob to the left until it will not move any more and add five to the number you reach. You now have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times then go to the first number you got. Turn the dial to the right bypassing the first number once. When you have bypassed the first number start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose go to the next groove if the knob is stiff you have the second number of the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number spin the dial then enter the two numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right and at each number pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone informed Master of their mistake and they employed a new mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene.
Automobiles:
Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night" by John Russell III); however many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So:
American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City CA 90230
ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling.
Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:
Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle NY 10801
LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle and will allow you to enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling.
The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by:
Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton OH 45408
For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.
Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So:
A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon OH 44646
Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.
If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake IO 50588
VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car but there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set.
Updated Lockpicking:
For years there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows:
Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins one by one until the shear line is set and the lock opens.
Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps or diamond shape notches. These picks are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck the pins will raise in the open position and stay there. Raking if successful can be much less of an effort than standard picking.
Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun" and the "trigger" is pulled. This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful but when it does work the results are very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger.
Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.
There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:
Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale AR 85252
The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries teflon bearings (for less noise) and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage in the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also open group two locks (including government high security and medecos) although this can take a short time longer. It will not open GM sidear locks although a device is about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy that will open most locks in seven seconds?
$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
For you hard core safe crackers FC also sells the MI-6 that will open most safes at a cost of $10 000 for the three wheel attack model and $10 500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor disk drive and software.
If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you you can always fall back on the magic thermal lance...
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot length but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance you screw the tube together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar and is available from:
So you want to be a criminal. Well if you want to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds then go to Hollywood because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access look elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the "lock in knob" type lock since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set don't give up hope. It is possible to make your own if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file but it takes forever).
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90 degrees). Now take your pick to a grinder or a file and smooth the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now this is where the screwdriver comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time one above the other. In the coming instructions please refer to this chart of the interior of a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
/ H [ Lower tumbler pin
\ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified drawing}
\ E
______________________________/
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now if you push a pin up it's tendency is to fall back down right? That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins from falling back down. Now work from the back of the lock to the front and when you are through there will be a click the screwdriver will turn freely and the door will open.
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that you will quickly improve with practice.
Most people are not aware that a volatile extremely explosive chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox.
Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks and can be bought at Kmart and various hardware supply shops for around $7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate a filler used in many military applications in the WWII era.
Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen you must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and readily available energy source is common household sugar or sucrose. In theory glucose would be the purest energy source but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
Making the mixture:
[1] Open the can of Solidox and remove all 6 sticks. One by one grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
[2] The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1 so weigh the Solidox powder and grind up the equivalent amount of sugar.
[3] Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder and sugar in a 1:1 ratio.
It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful
substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word
of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid
friction heat and flame. A few years back a teenager I knew
blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox.
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset which is a phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To fabricate a beigebox follow along.
Making a beigebox:
Obtain an old phone and cut off the plug on the end. Solder an alligator clip onto the red wire and the green wire.
Now imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for that special person 976 numbers galore even harassing the operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an enemies house and using their phone to your heart's content.
Connecting the beigebox:
Look on the outside of your victim's house taking note of any wires leading from a telephone pole to the exterior of their house. Follow the wires and find where they connect. The telephone wire should be black and about the width of your small finger. You do NOT want the 220 volt house current unless you like having a permanent orange afro.
When the telephone wire connects to the victim's house it should run down their wall and into a small beige or grey box. Some boxes have a bolt in the dead center and some have even gone as far as to have a lock (smashing them open is no problem). Now you must open the box and observe: you should see three bolts each with wires attached. Connect the two alligator clips to the two outside bolts and then you should get a dial tone. If you do not get a dial tone experiment with the connections. By the way don't worry about getting electrocuted; there is not enough power in the phone lines to harm you.
After placing a few phone calls if you really want to get even pull all the wires out of the box. This will result in about a $100 dollar service charge for your enemy.
You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it or whatever. With a nail force a hole bigger so as to allow the powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse. I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse or an m-80 type fuse but firecracker fuses work if you can run like a black man runs from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now light it and run like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones in apartment complexes) a car (place under the gas tank) a picture window (place on window sill) a phone booth (place right under the phone) or any other devious place. This thing throws shrapnel and can make quit a mess!! -BHU-
Thermite II... or A better way to make Thermite by BHU
Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it. The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a short time:
- Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the connector off separate the wires and strip them both.
- Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water conductive.
- Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes. One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right the final product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust which is RUST ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).
- Anyway put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of making thermite you might as well make a lot right?
- Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours or inside overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked up what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)
- Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure aluminum filings which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams.
- Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now to light it...
- Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to ignite. However a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find.. call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite.
- Now when you see your victim's car pour a fifty-cent sized pile onto his hood stick the ribbon in it and light the ribbon with the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood the block the axle and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!! -BHU-
This is sort of a mild explosive but it can be quite dangerous in large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a snap-n-pop but more powerful) use this recipe:
- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you dried the thermite (in other words just let it sit overnight!).
- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully! Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud huh? They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds football games concerts etc.) Have fun! -BHU-
- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my recipe but substitute iron fillings for rust.
- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space (such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...
- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope. You know the type that is double layered... Separate the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is your bomb!!
- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain. Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up it would at least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal paint can with a refastenable lid a nice bright color paint (green pink purple or some gross color is perfect!) and a quantity of dry ice. Place the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quickly place the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed off at someone you could place it on their doorstep knock on the door and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!!
There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only the ones that are the most fun (for you) the most destructive (for them) and the hardest to trace (for the cops).
- Place thermite on the hood light it and watch it burn all the way through the pavement!
- Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood axel gas tank wheel muffler etc.)
- Put a tampon dirt sugar (this one is good!) a ping pong ball or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.
- Put potatoes rocks banannas or anything that will fit into the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the tailpipe.
- Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...
- Steal a key copy it replace it and then steal the stereo.
- Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like this:
----
| |
| |
| |
| <
----
Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo equalizer radar detector etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders on the seats!)
- One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have to check them all whilst you can slip away for an hour or two. You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course you will probably have to make it up in the summer...).
- Get some pure potassium or pure sodium put it in a capsule and flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).
- Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.
- Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards inside if they are (gag) IBM.
- Make friends with student assistants and have them change your grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report cards.
- Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!
- Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal is a fascist.
- Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However this device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to 10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An 8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a car's 12v system. However the correct construction and tuning of the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz. Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in supermarkets & banks etc.) contain a Gunn type transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you cannot get one locally write to Microwave Associates in Burlington Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers' for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN!
-BHU-
P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing get a copy of POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds of neat things!
Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts stirring well. Pour it into a future container and before it solidifies imbed a few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this stuff will fill up a whole block with thick white smoke!
(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
Small amount of sugar
Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this though because if you are caught it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed forget it unless you want to cut through it. If you do do it near the ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two red wires. In older cars red was the standard color if not look for two matched pairs. When you find them cross them and take off! -BHU-
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it. Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet so don't do it in an alley!! -BHU-
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball until you can't fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight! Then when you see a geek walking down the street give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
- White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
- Clear nail polish
- Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!)
- Remove the cotton covering from the inside.
- Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper metal might spark the matchpowder!)
- After you have a lot spread it evenly on the disk.
- Using the nail polish spread it over the match mixture
- Let it dry
- Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).
- When that disk is in a drive the drive head attempts to read the disk which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try and fix THAT!!! -BHU-
There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number a service rep would call the customer service number for billing information in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go something like this: "Hi Amarillo this is Joe from Anytown business office I need the DPAC number for the south side of town." This info is usually passed out with no problems so... if the first person you call doesn't have it try another. REMEMBER no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on the phone so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!) When you call the DPAC number just tell them that you need a listing for either the address that you have or the name. DPAC DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also if you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down you might want to check into geting a criss-cross directory which lists phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two numbers down! -BHU-
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just have a few lying around or know where to get them. Well in some parts of the country fuses are extremely hard to come by... so this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented here are fairly simple to make and are fairly reliable.
SLOW BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
- Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
- Granulated sugar
Procedure:
- Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water then rinse with fresh water
- Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water
- Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
- Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
- Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses among other things. Here is how you make it:
Materials needed:
-3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
-1/2 cup of wood ashes
-Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
-2 pieces of finely woven cloth each a bit bigger than the bottom of the bucket
-Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
-Shallow heat resistant container
-2 gallons of water
-Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
-1 gallon of any type of alcohol
-A heat source
-Paper & tape
Procedure:
- Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket so that the metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom
- Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom
- Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.
- Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes
- Place the dirt or other material in the bucket
- Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not blocked.
- Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour it all at once as this will clog the filter on the bottom.
- Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the bottom.
- Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
- Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so
- Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away and discard the sludge in the bottom
- Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they form
- When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let it sit
- After 1/2 hour add equal volume of the alcohol; when this mixture is poured through paper small white crystals appear. This is the posassium nitrate.
Purification:
- Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water
- Remove any crystals that appear
- Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution to dryness.
- Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!
- Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so that it touches the filament!
- Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or else YOU will be the victim!!)
- Get the hell out!!
Procedure for a Napam Bulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler
- Melt soap chips stirring slowly.
- Put somewhere and allow to cool
- Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue. Remove threads slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!
- Pour the liquid into the bulb and slowly lower the filament back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the fluid.
- Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently used by the victim and get the hell out!!
When the victim flips the switch he will be in for a BIG surprise!
-Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will know you got the right ones if they are very very small glass objects!)
-Pack of matches
-1 candle
Procedure:
- Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the top.
- Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side. Do the same with the other wire but in a downward direction. The diodes should now be hugging the matchhead but its wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!
- Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These work underwater
- repeat to make as many as you want
How to use them:
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery the diode reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical components reach this voltage they usually produce great amounts of heat and light while quickly melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for use underwater where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY!
-1 plastic drain pipe 3 feet long at least 3 1/2 inches in diameter
-1 smaller plastic pipe about 6 inches long 2 inches in diameter
-1 large lighter with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
-1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe
-5 feet of bellwire
-1 SPST rocker switch
-16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
-15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
-Electrical Tape
-One free afternoon
Procedure:
- Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces and strip the ends
- Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe the same diameter as the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. they should screw together easily.
- Take a piece of scrap metal and bend it into an "L" shape then attach it to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/------
!lighter!!<---metal lever
!!!
!!
Now every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
- Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch
- Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube one for the switch on the bottom and one for the metal piece on the top. Then mount the switch in the bottom running the wires up and out of the top.
- Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one hold down the trigger a bit let it go and throw a match in there. If all goes well you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
3 the relay
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5
Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4) and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little sparks.
- Now carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe tape the battery to the side of the cannon barrel (yes but looks aren't everything!)
- You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by flipping the switch.
- Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now ready for the first trial-run!
To Test:
Put something very very large into the barrel just so that it fits 'just right'. Now find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad earmuffs and possibly some other protective clothing (trust the BHU! You are going to need it!). Hold the trigger down for 30 seconds hold on tight and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments you should be able to put a frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.
Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder control relay to the phone line.
First I will discuss taps a little. There are many different types of taps. there are transmitters wired taps and induction taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be physically connected to the line before they will do any good. Once a wireless tap is connected to the line it can transmit all conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the phone line but can have an external power source. You can get more information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps on the other hand need no power source but a wire must be run from the line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook one of these it must be installed inside the phone. When someone calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings blows a whistle over the line the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at 415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone you will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.
Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone: A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes the conversation but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone the cubes fall away unnoticed.
A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is doing when you are wardialing hacking or just plain calling a bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver Colorado! 55 megs online! Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way i did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).
The 100K pot is used for volume. It should be on its highest (least resistance) setting if you hook a speaker across the output. but it should be set on its highest resistance for a tape recorder or amplifier. You may find it necessary to add another 10 - 40K. The capacitor should be around .47 MFD. It's only purpose is to prevent the relay in the phone from tripping & thinking that you have the phone off of the hook. the audio output transformer is available at Radio Shack. (part # 273-138E for input). The red & the white wires go to the output device. You may want to experiment with the transformer for the best output. Hooking up a tape recorder relay is easy. Just hook one of the phone wires (usually red) to the the end of one of the relay & the ther end just loop around. This bypasses it. It should look like this:
-----------------
---------
RELAY
(part #275-004 from Radio Shack works fine)
If you think that you line is tapped the first thing to do is to physically inspect the line yourself ESPECIALLY the phones. You can get mike replacements with bug detectors built in. However I would not trust them too much. It is too easy to get a wrong reading.
For more info:
BUGS AND ELECTRONIC SURVEILANCE from Desert Publications HOW TO AVOID ELECTRONIC EAVESDROPPING & PRIVACY INVASION. I do not remember who this one is from... you might want to try Paladin Press.
First you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are desperate but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.
switch-----------battery
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
solar igniter
|
|
|
explosive
Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb m-80 CO2 bomb etc.) to the igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from and plant the switch but leave the button visible (not TOO visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how short your wick is and if a homemade wick is being used its burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha
- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full
- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the bottle.
- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it and the chlorine and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!! Have fun! -BHU-
To start off we will discuss the dialing procedures for domestic as well as international dialing. We will also take a look at the telephone numbering plan.
North American Numbering Plan
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In North America the telephone numbering plan is as follows:
A) a 3 digit Numbering Plan Area (NPA) code ie area code
B) a 7 digit telephone # consisting of a 3 digit Central Office (CO) code plus a 4 digit station #
These 10 digits are called the network address or destination code. It is in the format of:
Area Code Telephone #
--------- -----------
N*X NXX-XXXX
Where: N = a digit from 2 to 9
* = the digit 0 or 1
X = a digit from 0 to 9
Area Codes
~~~~~~~~~~
Check your telephone book or the seperate listing of area codes found on many bbs's. Here are the special area codes (SAC's):
510 - TWX (USA)
610 - TWX (Canada)
700 - New Service
710 - TWX (USA)
800 - WATS
810 - TWX (USA)
900 - DIAL-IT Services
910 - TWX (USA)
The other area codes never cross state lines therefore each state must have at least one exclusive NPA code. When a community is split by a state line the CO #'s are often interchangeable (ie you can dial the same number from two different area codes).
TWX (Telex II) consists of 5 teletype-writer area codes. They are owned by Western Union. These SAC's may only be reached via other TWX machines. These run at 110 baud (last I checked! They are most likely faster now!). Besides the TWX #'s these machines are routed to normal telephone #'s. TWX machines always respond with an answerback. For example WU's FYI TWX # is (910) 279-5956. The answerback for this service is "WU FYI MAWA".
If you don't want to but a TWX machine you can still send TWX messages using Easylink [800/325-4112]. However you are gonna have to hack your way onto this one!
700:
700 is currently used by AT&T as a call forwarding service. It is targeted towards salesmen on the run. To understand how this works I'll explain it with an example. Let's say Joe Q. Salespig works for AT&T security and he is on the run chasing a phreak around the country who royally screwed up an important COSMOS system. Let's say that Joe's 700 # is (700) 382-5968. Everytime Joe goes to a new hotel (or most likely SLEAZY MOTEL) he dials a special 700 # enters a code and the number where he is staying. Now if his boss received some important info all he would do is dial (700) 382-5968 and it would ring wherever Joe last progammed it to. Neat huh?
800:
This SAC is one of my favourites since it allows for toll free calls. INWARD WATS (INWATS) or Inward Wide Area Telecommunications Service is the 800 #'s that we are all familiar with. 800 #'s are set up in service areas or bands. There are 6 of these. Band 6 is the largest and you can call a band 6 # from anywhere in the US except the state where the call is terminated (that is why most companies have one 800 number for the countery and then another one for their state.) Band 5 includes the 48 contiguous states. All the way down to band 1 which includes only the states contiguous to that one. Therefore less people can reach a band 1 INWATS # than a band 6 #.
Intrastate INWATS #'s (ie you can call it from only 1 state) always have a 2 as the last digit in the exchange (ie 800-NX2- XXXX). The NXX on 800 #'s represent the area where the business is located. For example a # beginning with 800-431 would terminate at a NY CO.
800 #'s always end up in a hunt series in a CO. This means that it tries the first # allocated to the company for their 800 lines; if this is busy it will try the next # etc. You must have a minimum of 2 lines for each 800 #. For example Travelnet uses a hunt series. If you dial (800) 521-8400 it will first try the # associated with 8400; if it is busy it will go to the next available port etc. INWATS customers are billed by the number of hours of calls made to their #.
OUTWATS (OUTWARD WATS): OUTWATS are for making outgoing calls only. Largecompanies use OUTWATS since they receive bulk-rate discounts. Since OUTWATS numbers cannot have incoming calls they are in the format of:
(800) *XXX-XXXX
Where * is the digit 0 or 1 (or it may even be designated by a letter) which cannot be dialed unless you box the call. The *XX identifies the type of service and the areas that the company can call.
This DIAL-IT SAC is a nationwide dial-it service. It is use for taking television polls and other stuff. The first minute currently costs an outrageous 50-85 cents and each additional minute costs 35-85 cents. Hell takes in a lot of revenue this way!
Dial (900) 555-1212 to find out what is currently on this service.
CO CODES
~~~~~~~~
These identify the switching office where the call is to be routed. The following CO codes are reserved nationwide:
555 - directory assistance
844 - time. These are now in!
936 - weather the 976 exchange
950 - future services
958 - plant test
959 - plant test
970 - plant test (temporary)
976 - DIAL-IT services
Also the 3 digit ANI & ringback #'s are regarded as plant test and are thus reserved. These numbers vary from area to area.
You cannot dial a 0 or 1 as the first digit of the exchange code (unless using a blue box!). This is due to the fact that these exchanges (000-199) contains all sorts of interesting shit such as conference #'s operators test #'s etc.
950:
Here are the services that are currently used by the 950 exchange:
1000 - SPC
1022 - MCI Execunet
1033 - US Telephone
1044 - Allnet
1066 - Lexitel
1088 - SBS Skyline
These SCC's (Specialized Common Carriers) are free from fortress phones! Also the 950 exchange will probably be phased out with the introduction of Equal Access
Plant Tests:
These include ANI Ringback and other various tests.
Dial 976-1000 to see what is currently on the service. Also many bbs's have listings of these numbers.
N11 codes:
----------
Bell is trying to phase out some of these but they still exist in most areas.
011 - international dialing prefix
211 - coin refund operator
411 - directory assistance
611 - repair service
811 - business office
911 - EMERGENCY
International Dialing
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
With International Dialing the world has been divided into 9 numbering zones. To make an international call you must first dial: International Prefix + Country code + National #
In North America the international dialing prefix is 011 for station-to-station calls. If you can dial International #'s directly in your area then you have International Direct Distance Dialing (IDDD).
The country code which varies from 1 to 3 digits always has the world numbering zone as the first digit. For example the country code for the United Kingdom is 44 thus it is in world numbering zone 4. Some boards may contain a complete listing of other country codes but here I give you a few:
1 - North America (US Canada etc.)
20 - Egypt
258 - Mozambique
34 - Spain
49 - Germany
52 - Mexico (southern portion)
7 - USSR
81 - Japan
98 - Iran (call & hassle those bastards!)
If you call from an area other than North America the format is generally the same. For example let's say that you wanted to call the White House from Switzerland to tell the prez that his numbered bank account is overdrawn (it happens you know! ha ha). First you would dial 00 (the SWISS international dialing refix) then 1 (the US country code) followed by 202-456-1414 (the national # for the White House. Just ask for Georgy and give him the bad news!)
Also country code 87 is reserved for Maritime mobile service ie calling ships:
871 - Marisat (Atlantic)
871 - Marisat (Pacific)
872 - Marisat (Indian)
International Switching:
------------------------
In North America there are currently 7 no. 4 ESS's that perform the duty of ISC (Inter-nation Switching Centers). All international calls dialed from numbering zone 1 will be routed through one of these "gateway cities". They are:
182 - White Plains NY
183 - New York NY
184 - Pittsburgh PA
185 - Orlando Fl
186 - Oakland CA
187 - Denver CO
188 - New York NY
The 18X series are operator routing codes for overseas access (to be furthur discussed with blue boxes). All international calls use a signaling service called CCITT.It is an international standard for signaling.
Ok.. there you go for now! If you wanna read more about this read part two which is the next file #36 in the BHU's cookbook!
Part II will deal with the various types of operators office heirarchy & switching equipment.
Operators
~~~~~~~~~
There are many types of operators in the network and the more common ones will be discussed.
TSPS Operator:
The TSPS [(Traffic Service Position System) ass opposed to This Shitty Phone Service] Operator is probably the bitch (or bastard for the female libertationists out there) that most of us are used to having to deal with. Here are his/her responsibilities:
1) Obtaning billing information for calling card or third number calls
2) Identifying called customer on person-to-person calls.
3) Obtaining acceptance of charges on collect calls.
4) Identifying calling numbers. This only happens when the calling # is not automatically recorded by CAMA (Centralized Automatic Message Accounting) & forwarded from the local office. This could be caused by equipment failures (ANIF- Automatic Number Identification Failure) or if the office is not equipped for CAMA (ONI- Operator Number Identification).
<I once has an equipment failure happen to me & the TSPS operator came on and said "What # are you calling FROM?" Out of curiosity I gave her the number to my CO she thanked me & then I was connected to a conversation that appeared to be between a frameman s wife. Then it started ringing the party I wanted to originally call & everyone phreaked out (excuse the pun). I immediately dropped this dual line conference!
You should not mess with the TSPS operator since she KNOWS which number that you are calling from. Your number will show up on a 10-digit LED read-out (ANI board). She also knows whether or not you are at a fortress phone & she can trace calls quite readily! Out of all of the operators she is one of the MOST DANGEROUS.
INWARD operator:
This operator assists your local TSPS ("0") operatorin connecting calls. She will never question a call as long as the call is withing HER SERVICE AREA. She can only be reached via other operators or by a blue box. From a blue box you would dial KP+NPA+121+ST for the INWARD operator that will help you connect any calls within that NPA only. (Blue Boxing will be discussed in a future file).
This is the operator that you are connected to when you dial: 411 or NPA-555-1212. She does not readily know where you are calling from. She does not have access to unlisted numbers but she DOES know if an unlisted # exists for a certain listing.
There is also a directory assistance operator for deaf people who use teletypewriters. If your modem can transfer BAUDOT [(45.5 baud). One modem that I know of that will do this is the Apple Cat acoustic or the Atari 830 acoustic modem. Yea I know they are hard to find... but if you wanna do this.. look around!) then you can call him/her up and have an interesting conversation. The # is: 800-855-1155. They use the standard Telex abbreviations such as GA for go ahead. they tend to be nicer and will talk longer than your regular operators. Also they are more vulnerable into being talked out of information through the process of "social engineering" as Chesire Catalyst would put it.
<Unfortunately they do not have access to much. I once bullshitted with one of these operators a while back and I found out that there are 2 such DA offices that handle TTY. One is in Philadelphia and the other is in California. They have approx. 7 operators each. most of the TTY operators think that their job is boring (based on an official "BIOC poll"). They also feel that they are under-paid. They actually call up a regular DA # to process your request (sorry no fancy computers!)
Other operators have access to their own DA by dialing KP+NPA+131+ST (MF).
CN/A operators:
CN/A Operators are operators that do exactly the opposite of what directory assistance operators are for. In my experience these operators know more than the DA op's do & they are more susceptable to "social engeneering." It is possible to bullshit a CN/A operator for the NON-PUB DA # (ie you give them the name & they give you the unlisted number. See the article on unlisted numbers in this cookbook for more info about them.). This is due to the fact that they assume that you are a fellow company employee. Unfortunately the AT&T breakup has resulted in the break-up of a few NON-PUB DA #'s and policy changes in CN/A
INTERCEPT Operator:
The intercept operator is the one that you are connected to when there are notenough recordings available to tell you that the # has been disconnected or changed. She usually says "What # you callin'?" with a foreign accent. This is the lowest operator lifeform. Even though they don't know where you are calling from it is a waste or your time to try to verbally abuse them since they usually understand very little English anyway.
Incidentally a few area DO have intelligent INTERCEPT Operators.
And then there are the: MObile Ship-to-Shore Conference Marine Verify "Leave Word and Call Back " Rout & Rate (KP+800+141+1212+ST) & other special operators who have one purpose or another in the network.
Problems with an Operator> Ask to speak to their supervisor... or better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse.
By the way some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the 4th digit will also allow you to call special operators & other fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare though! For example 212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator.
Office Hierarchy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Every switching office in North America (the NPA system) is assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll office which can be a class 4 3 2 or 1 office. There is also a class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it (known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)).
The following chart will list the Office # name & how many of those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:
When connecting a call from one party to another the switching equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two parties it will then move upward to the next highest office for servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office it will then be sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk groups if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected you will probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy signal] signal. At this time the guys at Network Operations are probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!).
It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way to really screw up the network].
The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone network. Since there are only 12 of them they are listed below:
Class 1 Regional Office Location NPA
-------------------------------- ---
Dallas 4 ESS 214
Wayne PA 215
Denver 4T 303
Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada) 306
St. Louis 4T 314
Rockdale GA 404
Pittsburgh 4E 412
Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada) 504
That's it for now! More info to come Future update to the Cookbook! Have fun! -BHU-
The scan-tron are those b*tchy little cards with the little bubbles and rectangles that our precious teachers expect us to fill in with those #2 pencils. In the past you had some machine zap through the cards only to tell you that you have failed biology. This meant that mom and dad are gonna take your computer, telephone, and nights on the town and stuff them in their closet, (along with their kinky sex toys).
Well, worry no more...
A group of brilliant people from the Armed Forces Pirating Guild have come up with a simple, but workable method to evade those little red slashes that seem to say "nice try, faggot".
***EXPLANATION***
Scan-tron machines detect right or wrong answers by picking up on led #2 pencil marks.
If nothing has been marked at all in the given space, then your answer will be marked wrong. However, if there is neither a dark pencil mark nor a blank, the machine will get a little confused and simply not mark anything. You might say to yourself, "Well, what about the score printed at the end of the test??", to which point we respond...
Scan-tron machines assignes a variable to the number of possible points and the number of problems wrong. Then it subtracts one from the other and prints the answer at the bottom. The little red marks beside your answers represent the number wrong, however, if there is no red mark, then there is simply "nothing wrong" as far as the machine is concerned. And we all know that our beloved teachers pay no attention and leave all the adding to those wonderful little machines.
There are two types of fill sheets one can receive, ones with the circles to fill in, and ones with the rectangles to fill in.
On the ones with the circles, there is one way to avoid a slash... IF A CIRCLE IS LIGHTLY SHADED IN, TOO LIGHT FOR THE MACHINE AND TOO DARK FOR THE TEACHER TO QUESTION, THE MACHINE WILL GET CONFUSED AND SIMPLY LEAVE YOUR ANSWER BE. Once again, if there is no mark, the machine does not subtract from the total possible, and the teacher does not notice. Don't get it wrong though, the computer will mark a circle that has not been filled in at all 'wrong'. The only trick is to lightly fill it in with the cor- rect tint.
Now for the rectangles...
The same method described for the circles will also work for the rectangle form, along with another method... This method is, drawing many diagonal light lines through the rectangle. However, this method is not recommended because 'teacher' will probably catch on (some teachers are really stupid though).
One more note:
Finals are coming. Start practicing!!!
By the way, this method WORKS. It's kept me playing sports and I gotten to keep my telephone, computer, and social time (ie. fucking my girlfriend). Ivanhoe and I hope this is beneficial to both you and Harry.
Often many of you may be in a position of needing to do an information search on an individual. It is somtimes a big help to know where someone originaly came from, in the following list the first three numbers in a social security number will tell you where the card was originaly applied for. also, a helpful hint on locating missing persons or any person for that matter. a letter to the social security administration with as much personal information (date of birth,lastplace of residence), can be the answer.
WRITE TO:
SOCIAL SECURITY ADMINISTRATION
PUBLIC INQUIRIES
DEPT. HEALTH & HUMAN SERVICES
6501 SECURITY BVLD. BALT. MD. 20235
CARD NUMBERS--STATE ISSUED TO
001-003 NEW HAMPSHIRE
004-007 MAINE
008-009 VERMONT
010-034 MASS
035-039 RHODE ISLAND
040-049 CONN
050-134 NEW YORK
135-158 NEW JERSEY
159-211 PENN
212-220 MARYLAND
221-222 DELEWARE
223-231 VIRGINIA
232-236 W. VIRGINIA
237-246 N. CAROLINA
247-251 S. CAROLINA
252-260 GEORGIA
261-267 FLORIDA
268-302 OHIO
03-317 INDIANA
318-361 ILLINOIS
362-386 MICH
387-399 WIS
400-407 KENTUCKY
408-415 TENN
416-424 ALABAMA
425-428 MISSISSIPPI
429-432 ARKANSAS
433-439 LOUISIANA
440-448 OKLAHOMA
449-467 TEXAS
468-477 MINN
478-485 IOWA
486-500 MISSOURI
501-502 N DAKOTA
503-504 S DAKOTA
505-508 NEBRASKA
509-515 KANSAS
516-517 MONTANA
518-519 IDAHO
520 WYOMING
521-524 COLO
525 NEW MEXICO
526-527 ARIZ
528-529 UTAH
530 NEVADA
531-539 WASH
540-544 OREGON
545-573 CALIF
574 ALASKA
575-576 HAWII
577-579 WASH D.C.
------------------
(REMEMBER: The first three numbers in a social security number will tell you where the card was originally issued).
This works best if you happen to have alot of deralict friends, as I do... Your first day of school you should bring the following items, to insure a prosperous school Year:
: Fountain pen (and extra ink refills)
: Three (3) Tubes of Super Glue (Krazy Glue)
: Pennies ($2.00 worth)
: Balloons (small sized for convieniance)
: Mirror (small hand held)
: Liquid Soap
: Lighter
: Firecrackers (ladyfingers are fine)
: screwdrivers and other small tools
: Small sqeezable bottles (like nasal decongestant type)
: Wire (10-20 ft.)
: Tape recorder/Microphone/battery operated
: Ziplock baggies
: Half of an orange
: Light bulb (75 watts and UP)
This will dor for now... Some of the cool things to do are, take the pennies and glue them to the cafeteria tables. Also glue silver dollars to the fire alarms.
Another thing todo w/ a coin is heat it up over a bunson burner and just as the bell rings, toss the coin into the hall, I will guarantee you will know when the coin is picked up... While your using the bunson burner, fill your little squeeze bottle w/ gas, then cap it tight and put it in your pocket...later, take a firecracker, and glue it to the bottle, use a cigarette as a fuse extension (to buy your self and alaby) and then put it in the bathroom, and while your in the bathroom, place a light bulb over the door, and when the superintendant goes to see what the explosion was, he gets a nice little surprise...
Now for the wire, if you can access a room near your locker, when no body is in the room, take off the speaker cover and the pa system, and hook 2 wires from it, to your mic. (then to your locker) This is good for getting your friends out of class. Use the small tools and be very neat...Also if this is possible run the wir through the cieling, so that noone becomes suspicious about seeing a few wires dangling in YOUR locker. Late organizations (Athletics/band) have access to the building and you can possibly since some classes are connected if one door is locked, try another...
Use your mirror and scope out peoples combinations, its going tobe tricky beings that the reflection is in reverse, but if you have half a brain you can rearange so that it will become correct. Take the orange, let it sit for about 4 1/2 weeks and then use your newly acquired combination. People w/ floating lockers can make very good use of this.
Take a penny, and glue it over the key hole of a persons locker, just after he/she goes out....depending on the locker, this could be say, a gym locker, and do it when he changes clothes he will smell realy nice...
Balloons are fun to play w/ in chemistry class, fill them up w/ the gas that you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the balloon, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you the ones that are always smoking?? or throw it someplace nice and realy hot!!
Use your liquid soap after a nice rain storm and start squirting it everywhere people learn how to skate realy quick!! Also place the liquid soap in the toilets in desks, chairs, handrails, stairs...etc...
