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444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444 44 Chapter Four - "Explosives" 44 444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444 < Part I - Explosive Incendiaries > Sometimes people confuse chemical incendiaries with actual bombs. These are nothing alike (well maybe a little, but anyway). Chemical incendiaries are what make up bombs. Nitroglycerin, dynamite, etc., are not classified as bombs themselves, because to make a real bomb you need other parts (fuse or igniter, casing, and so on). So this first part will be strictly about making the chemicals that bombs are made of, and the next part will tell you how to put them together and ignite them. Author: The Rocker ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX Xx xX Xx American Dynamite xX Xx xX Xx By The Rocker xX Xx of xX Xx Metallibashers Inc. xX Xx xX Xx for: ==Phrack Inc.== xX Xx xX XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX Recipe: Mix 170 parts tolulene with 100 parts acid. The acid made of 2 parts of 70% nitric and 3 parts of 100% sulfuric. Mix below 30 degrees. Set this down for 30 min. and let it separate. Take the mononitrotolulene and mix 100 part of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid is 1 part pure nitric and 2 parts pure sulfuric. Keep the temperature at 60- 70 degrees while they are slowly mixed. Raise temp to 90-100 and stir for 30 min. The dinitrotoluene is separated and mix 100 parts of this stuff with 225 parts of 20% oleum which is 100% sulfuric with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 65 parts nitric acid. Heat at 95 degrees for 60 min. Then at 120 degrees for 90 min. Separate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water. Purify the powder by soaking it in benzyne. Presto! American Dynamite! Thanx to S.A. for the idea! Thanx to Phrack Inc. for just being a sponsor! __________________________________________________________________________ Author: Unknown ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ A chlorate/sugar incendiary/explosive. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This mixture can be either an incendiary of an explosive. Sugar is the common granulated household type. Either potassium chlorate (KClO3) or sodium chlorate (NaClO3) can be used; but potassium is preferred. Proportions can be by equal parts or by volume, or 3 parts chlorate to 2 parts sugar preferred. Mix in or on a non-sparking surface. Unconfined, the mixture is an incendiary. Confined in a tightly capped length of pipe, it will explode when a spark is introduced. Such a pipe will produce lovely casualties. Concentrated sulfuric acid will ignite this very fast burning incendiary mixture. Placing the acid in a gelatin capsule, balloon, or other suitable container will provide a delay the length of which depends on how long it takes for the acid to eat through the container. __________________________________________________________________________ Authors: Kurt Saxon and (sort of) The Reflex ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% %% %% %% ============================ %% %% How to Make Ammonium Nitrate %% %% ============================ %% %% %% %% A file from THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND by: Kurt Saxon %% %% %% %% Plagerized by: %% %% --==**>>THE REFLEX<<**==-- %% %% [Member: Omnipotent, Inc.] %% %% %% %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% Disclaimer: I, THE REFLEX, will accept full responsibility for any damages =-=-=-=-=-= caused by information obtained from this text-file. As a matter of fact, I'll let you sue me and I'll pay. All you have to do is tell your lawyer, "It's all THE REFLEX's fault." I'll see you when you get out of the institution. Some Militants who don't have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate. This can be bought by anyone at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag. It is fertilizer. Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to 14,000 feet per second. It is roughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro. The fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the ratio of one pint of oil to 8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate. This has to be detonated with a stick of gelatin dynamite [I didn't say all was easy. Try to find another file about that crap.]. Purified ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite cap. The pure stuff can be bought at chemical supply houses or the fertilizer grade can be purified with distilled wood alcohol. Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan. Pour in enough wood alcohol (methanol) to cover the fertilizer. Then stir it until a lot of it has dissolved. Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow the impurities to settle to the bottom along with the undissolved ammonium nitrate. Another pan is set on some pieces of dry ice for the next step. Dry ice can be found in the business section of the phone book under "Dry Ice." Locker companies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small amounts. The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan. This is done carefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitrate behind. The dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out of the solution in crystals. When no more crystals are formed they are removed from the alcohol. The alcohol is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to dissolve any ammonium nitrate left undissolved. After setting a few minutes the solution is again poured off the dregs and the dregs are thrown away. When the last batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored and reused. The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are harmless unless they are enough to replace the air. Don't handle the dry ice with your bare hands [unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone] as its cold will cause blisters. In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap, it must be very dry. Spread it out under a heat lamp ir in thte sun. When completely dry, store it in tightly closed plastic bags. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ - You got here on just the right day! For a limited time only, we will be offering this *BONUS* file to you free with the above file. That's right! Two files for the price of one! And only from Omnipotent! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ - So you don't know what to do with your ammonium nitrate once you've made it. You're saying to yourself, "Great! Now I have a chemical that is supposed to blow things up, but I don't want to destroy anything [ahem?]." Well... LAUGHING GAS =-=-=-=-=-=- [snicker!] As a special treat for the dopers in the audience and since ammonium nitrate has been on your mind for a few minutes, you might as well learn how to make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. Laughing gas was one of the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while of inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't keep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep. Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it. The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee! To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol. First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate. When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break it up and store it in a bottle. A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp. When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F. When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ - Well, there you have two files in one. No need to thank us. Just send all "donations" to... [In this business, a since of humor is necessary!] Until the next one...THE REFLEX signing off as I am getting tired. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ - +------------+ : BOMB SQUAD : +------------+ MAKING THERMITE Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through practically anything, save tungsten. It is especially of use in trying to crack open a fortress fone. Now here's how you make it. It is very simple. The first step in making Thermite is making Hematite. In layman's terms, Hematite is Iron Oxide (rust). Here is a good method of making large quantities of rust. You will electrolyze a metal rod, such as a common nail. You will need a source of DC power as well. An electric train transformer i s perfect. Attach the rod to the positive wire. Then place the rod and the negative wire in opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a little salt in the water, just enough to make it conduct well (a teaspoon). Let the setup sit overnight . In the morning, there will be a dark red crud in the jar. Filter all the crud out of the jar or just fish it out with a spoon. Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron pot until it all turns a nice light red. The other ingredient you wil l need is aluminum filings. You can either file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest) buy aluminum filings at your local hardware shop. (If you buy the bar use no less than 94% pure aluminum. It is called Duralumin.) That's almost it. Now mix tog ether the rust and aluminum filings. The ratio should be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams of aluminum filings. That's Thermite! Now, to light it! Stick a length of Magnesium ribbon in a pile of the Thermite. (Either steal it from a chemical lab or buy it at your local hardware store. If not, order from a chemical supply house. It's pretty cheap.) The ribbon should stick into the Thermite like a fuse. Now you light the magnesium with a blowtorch. (Don,t worry. The torch isn't hot enough to light the Thermite.) When the burning Magnesium reaches the Thermite, it will light. When the Thermite burns, get the hell back! That stuff can vaporize carbon steel. It does wonders on human flesh. EXPLOSIVE INFO ============== When potroleum jelly and potassium chlorate are mixed in a one to one ratio by weight, it makes a totally safe wet compound but when dried it becomes highly explosive and shock sensitive. Mix 3 grams of Potassium Iodide and 5 grams of Iodine in a beaker with 50 Ml of water. Then add 20 Ml of Ammonium Hydroxide [ammonia water 10%]. Filter this substance and the resulting solid is called Nitrogen Triiodide. When this is wet it is safe, but when dry becomes very explosive and shock sensitive. For great smoke bombs, mix 4 parts sugar and 6 parts Potassium Nitrate (salt pepper) and heat it over a low flame until it melts. Stir well then pour it into a container you don't need. Before it solidifies, put a few matches on the surface as fuses . One pound of this substance will fill a block nicely with thick white smoke. NITROGLYCERIN: *CAREFULLY* mix equal amounts of Nitric Acid and Sulphuric Acid together in a graduated cylinder or other tall, thin container. Slowly add ordinary Glycerin and stir very lightly. Wait awhile, and pour off the liquid on the top. This liquid is Nitrog lycerin, and should be handled with caution!! Washing it with Sodium Carbonate will improve the purity. NAPALM About the best firebomb is Napalm. It has a thick consistency, like jam, and is best for use on vehicles or buildings. Napalm is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergent's won't do. The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove an d carried to where there is no flame. Then one part, by volume, is put in the top part and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will h old longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler. __________________________________________________________________________ Authors: The Punisher and Lich ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ </>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\> <\> </> </> Improvised Explosives <\> <\> </> </> Plastique Explosive from Aspirin <\> <\> </> </>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\> Written by: The PUNISHER AND Lich This explosive is a phenol derivative. It is toxic and explosive compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absorbed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restricts its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. It's the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified). This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals except tin and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also wall cause the detonation of the picric acid. Next needed is aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistency. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good cooking oil. When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any procedure in this file with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding 58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas (nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30-40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax and 5% vaseline which are to melting temperature and poured into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful plasticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care. AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH IT, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, SHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE SO NOT RECOMMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE UP AS NEEDED. A V O I D C O N T A C T W I T H A L L M E T A L S E X C E P T T I N A N D A L U M I N U M ! ! ! __________________________________________________________________________ < Part ][ - Making Bombs > Now this is the part that actally explains how to create and detonate bombs. It is very helpful to know how to make the chemicals so one can use that knowledge to put together working (and I mean WORKING) bombs. __________________________________________________________________________ Author: The Voice Over ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ [][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][] [][][] [][][] [][][] A Step by Step Guide to Making a Dry Ice Gun [][][] [][][] [][][] [][][] By: The Voice Over [][][] [][][] [][][] [][][] A Metal Communications Presentation [][][] [][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][] Introduction: ------------ In the past, many people have experimented with the power generated by the conversion of dry ice into gaseous carbon dioxide. The most common use that I have seen is the dry ice bomb. The dry ice bomb is easily made by using a two liter plastic bottle, some hot water and some crushed dry ice. To make one, one simply puts about a cup and a half of crushed dry ice into the bottle, adds hot water, caps the bottle and throws it. These bombs are not a joke, and have been known to blow a metal trash can fifteen feet into the air, as well as bursting the bottom of the can. If you make a dry ice bomb, you had best throw it before it explodes due to the enormous force generated by the explosion of the bottle. A friend of mine waited a bit too long on throwing one, and he jammed three of his fingers badly, got a huge bruise on his left leg, and one of the plasic fragments was propelled with enough force to puncture his tennis shoes and cut his foot all to hell. In short, be careful with these things. One day in May of 1985, an idea was introduced to me by a friend. His plan was to control the force of the expanding dry ice and harness it to a useful end. The result was the dry ice gun. In following these plans, please keep in mind that when dry ice is finished expanding, it can generate pressures of up to 2400 PSI...for this reason, I recommend that when arming the gun and when disarming it, you hold all valves OPEN, and that you wear a pair of protective goggles at all times. I will take no responsibility for injury that occurs because of the content of this file, or through the use of this information. This information is intended for educational purposes ONLY. Materials needed: ---------------- The materials required will vary for each gun produced because of the nature of the construction itself and the effect produced by using different parts. The following parts, however, are necessary for a gun with moderate power and range: 1- Standard valve. I recommend the kind that is just a lever and turns 1/4 turn to open or close and has 3/4" connectors. 1- Blow gun (These can be found at auto parts stores... shop around a little and get one with the highest pressure rating you can find (probably 150 PSI)). This will be sometimes referred to as a valve also. 1- Length of hot water PVC piping...this will be used for the barrel. I recommend that you use 3/4" piping, because that is the kind that fits paint pellets of the type used in KILLER best. Note, however, that it is possible to launch anything up to the size of an egg with pleasing results, provided that the barrel is large enough in diameter. You will also 3ed various lengths of regular lead or steel }Kpiping (to construct the actual gun), and adapters to get the blow gun to fit the rest of the gun (blow guns usually have connectors that are 1/4" in diameter, while the rest of the gun (except the dry ice container) should be constructed with 3/4" fittings). You will also need an end cap to go on the end of your dry ice container and probably an elbow joint. Optional parts: -------------- 1- Standard valve (same kind as above, but with a shorter lever). 1- "T" joint with 3/4" connectors all around. 1- 6 or 7 inch length of 3/4" diameter pipe. 1- 3/4" end cap. Form-a-gasket and pipe dope Construction: ------------ Because of the nature of the gun, step-by-step plans are not possible. However, a diagram of the gun will give you an idea of what has to be done, and construction tips should prove enough to allow successful completion of the project. Diagram: ------- trigger (part of the blow gun) standard adaptor______________ : valve \ : \ : : : ______________________ : _ ; _____:______ ! !\__ __!___/! ! \ ! barrel ! __!__!__! ! O ! \ !______________________!/ / : : \!___I__!__ \ joint B____________/ : : : I \ \ blow gun_____________/ : : I / \ \ pressure chamber________/ : I / !_____!<-joint A adaptor____________________/ / ! ! elbow joint________________________/ /! ! dry ice container_____________________/ ! @ ! end cap_______________________________ _!_____!_ \!! !! +-------+ NOTES: 1- The dry ice container can be any size...the one I use is about 6 inches long by 2 inches in diameter. The larger the chamber is, the more shots the gun will fire before reloading is necessary. 2- The elbow joint can be left out...it will only make the gun in the shape of a straight rod rather than a "traditional" gun shape. "traditional" gun shape. 3- The barrel length can be any length you like, but very long ones are cumbersome and very short ones don't allow much accuracy. I recommend a length of about 2 1/2 to 3 feet. 4- all joints except the two marked 'A' and 'B' should be tightened as much as possible and sealed by coating the threads with the form-a-gasket and then putting the two pieces together and tightening them as much as possible. If you like, you can also caulk around the finished and tightened joint. 5- The joint marked 'B' should be tight, but DO NOT SEAL IT unless you do not intend to ever use more than one kind of barrel. 6- The joint marked 'A' should not be sealed with form-a- gasket like the others because it is the one that you will be filling the dry ice into the gun through. To fill the gun with dry ice, detach the dry ice chamber pipe from the elbow joint. Load the container with as much crushed dry ice as it will hold. Then, coat the threads of one of the pieces of the joint with pipe dope. This will prevent leakage of the carbon dioxide after it has changed into gaseous form. 7- The pressure chamber should be about 1 1/2 inches in length for a fairly powerful gun. The longer the pressure chamber is, the more powerful the gun. On a gun with a three inch pressure chamber, we shot a AA battery 500 (yes, hundred) feet across a parking lot. Such high power, however, is dangerous, and is not recommended for use in games such as Killer, but rather for target practice (on INANIMATE objects). How to operate the dry ice gun: ------------------------------ Once you have the dry ice gun built and loaded, the first thing you must do is to open the standard valve and immerse the gun in water. This is to check for leaks. If any leaks are present, they will show up as streams of bubbles rising from the gun. If any are found, tighten the offending joint and put the gun back in the water. When all leaks are gone (if necessary, take the whole thing apart and rebuild it from scratch to eliminate leaks, especially on either end of the pressure chamber), release the pressure built up so far by closing the standard valve and then operating the trigger. You should hear a 'woosh' sound, and tie gun should kick slightly. This indicates that all is working properly. When loading the dry ice gun, it is important to keep both valves OPEN until the dry ice container is secure, and then close both valves. Even after you are sure that the gun has no leaks anywhere, it is good to immerse the dry ice container (while it is attached to the gun) in water. This warms the dry ice and causes it to change into gaseous carbon dioxide. After the dry ice container has been immersed for 5 minutes or so, remove the gun from the water and dry it off. The gun is now ready to be fired. Firing the dry ice gun: ---------------------- This is the simplest step of all. To fire the gun simply place the projectile (I recommend paint pellets) in the barrel of the gun, open the standard valve for about a second and then close it. You should hear a muffled rush of air as some of the gaseous CO2 is bled into the pressure chamber. Aim the gun at who/whatever you wish to hit, and squeeze the trigger. For more power, you can leave the standard valve open and squeeze the trigger. Disarming the dry ice gun: ------------------------- To disarm the gun, open both valves until you can no longer hear the pressure escaping through the barrel of the gun. Then, unscrew the dry ice container and place it in cold water for about 3 to 4 minutes, or until all of the remaining dry ice has evaporated. When all of the dry ice is gone, clean the threads on the dry ice container and elbow joint, and store the gun in a clean, dry area. Suggested modifications: ----------------------- The only really nice modification that I've discovered is to replace the pressure chamber pipe with a "T" joint and valve so as to make a gun with long, medium, and short range capability. To do this, construct the pressure chamber section of the gun like this: ___adaptor I : ______________________________________ ________I___ _____ _ :/! ! I ___#__!o!/ ! ! I ! ! ! I ! ! "T" joint ! O ________! ! ! : \ ! ! : \!____________ _____________!____________ : ! ! ^ : !_____________! ! :__blow gun !______O______!<-standard standard ! I ! valve #2 valve #1 ! I ! ! I !<-short length _!______I______!_ of piping !! !! +---------------+ end cap_______/ What this does is make a pressure chamber with a variable length. The following chart shows the combinations in which the valves may be used to create different ranges. RANGE ! INSTRUCTIONS --------+-------------------------------------------------------- short ! Open valve number 1, hold it open for about a second, ! close it, and then open valve #2. --------+-------------------------------------------------------- medium ! Open valve number 1 for about a second and close it. ! Leave valve #2 closed. --------+-------------------------------------------------------- long ! Open valve #2 before opening valve #1. Open valve #1 ! for about a second, then close it. is --------+-------------------------------------------------------- Have fun, Y'all!!! __________________________________________________________________________ Author: Unknown ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Gelatin Bombs Condensation in a car's tank puts a layer of water on its bottom. Gelatin capsules filled with one part calcium carbide and one part pure sodium are dropped into a car's gas tank. In a few minutes there is an explosion you have to see to believe!!!! Gelatin capsules, filled with more gelatin are bought at the supermarket. the gelatin is emptied from the capsules and BB's are put into them so they sink to the bottom. Slivers of metallic sodium and chunks of carbide are then put into the capsules ...carry the capsules in a plastic bag to keep them dry. Three or four capsules are dropped into a car's gas tank. Several minutes - half an hour later....The capsules disintegrate and the moisture turns the carbide into explosive gas and also ignites the sodium. The burning sodium ignites the carbide gas there is a: B O O M ! ! ! ------------ |Bomb Squad| ------------ THE JUG BAND BOMB 1) Get ahold of a glass jug. 2) Put in a few drops of gasoline. 3) Cap the top. 4) Now turn the jug around to coat the inner surfaces and evaporates. 5) Add a few drops of Potassium Permanganate. (You can get this real easy from a snake-bite kit.) 6) The bomb is detonated by throwing or forcibly rolling against a solid object. When this sucker goes off it is the same as a half stick of dynamite. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ This is an anti-personal bomb meant for milling crowds. The bomb of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or glycerin is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or a wall where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to five minutes. It will then have a shat tering effect on passersby. It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone else's soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink from your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast! : : : : : : <----Chemical igniter ---------------- : : 1 : : : ========= : :* : : " : : : : : : : :<--------Big firecracker : : : % : : ========= : : : : : : # : : --- \ ^ : : ! * : <------Nut & bolts : / : : : ---------------- $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ MISCELLANEOUS NASTIES $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ FIREBOMBS Most firebombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked rag in the mouth (the bottles mouth, not yours). The original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps i t cling to what it splatters on. Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Firebombs have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into the gasoline. MATCH HEAD BOMB Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a devastating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse. A plastic baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent detonation by contact with the metal. Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from the TV. FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury. It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one, you light the fuse and hold the fir e bomb until the fuse has burned out of sight or under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the contents.