Collection of Hack-Phreak Scene Programs

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction Warning ........................................... 1 Chapter 1 - Low Explosives Blackpowder ....................................... 2 Other Types of Blackpowder ........................ 3 Zinc Explosive .................................... 4 Water Fire Starter ................................ 4 Explosive Misxtures ............................... 4 Chapter 2 - High Explosives Astrolite ......................................... 6 Astrolite A/A-1-5 ................................. 7 Sodium Chlorate Explosives ........................ 7 Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder ......................... 7 Rocket Fuel ....................................... 7 Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance) ................ 7 Incendiary Mixture ................................ 7 Impact Mixture .................................... 8 Filler Explosive .................................. 8 Nitromethane Explosives ........................... 8 Nitromethane 'solid' Explosives ................... 8 Picric Acid ....................................... 8 Tetryl ............................................ 9 Plastic Explosives from Bleach .................... 9 R.D.X. ............................................ 10 Composition 'C' ................................... 12 Composition C-2 and C-3 ........................... 12 Gelatin Dynamite .................................. 14 Peroxyacetone ..................................... 14 Cellulose Nitrate (guncotton) ..................... 15 Nitrogen Triiodide ................................ 15 Nitroglycerine .................................... 15 Making Sulfuric Acid .............................. 16 T.N.T. (Trinitrotoulene) .......................... 16 Mercury Fulminate ................................. 16 Chapter 3 - Incendiaries Napalm ............................................ 17 Thermite .......................................... 17 Chemically Ignited Explosives ..................... 17 Chapter 4 - Smoke Bombs Smoke Producer .................................... 18 Smoke Bomb ........................................ 18 HTH Chlorine Bomb ................................. 18 Smoke Mixtures .................................... 19 Chlorine and Turpentine ........................... 21 Chapter 5 - Bombs Generic Bomb ...................................... 22 Firebombs ......................................... 22 Pipe Bomb ......................................... 22 Contact Grenade ................................... 23 Carbide Bomb ...................................... 24 Hindenberg Bomb ................................... 24 Page 1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- INTRODUCTION --------------------------------------------------------------------------- The trouble with chemical books these days, is that they never explain in detail how to make something that you want. Sure, they tell you how the Chinese did it in 1500 or ten centuries ago. But now days, that does not help. Even some of the army manuals don't even give you enough information on HOW-TO-DO it. It's a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together to make something go "BOOM". An interesting point to remember that it is much easier to make a big explosion than a small one. It is very difficult for a home expermienter to make a fire-cracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is easy. You can find what you need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. Another, but harder place, to get chemicals is a chemical supply house. These places can be dangerous to your explosive career because some supply houses were told to report people who buy chemicals in a certain combination. For example; If a person were to buy tolulene, nitric acid, and sulfuric acid would be reported. The reason: those chemicals are the ones used in making Tri-nitro-tolulene (TNT). WARNING: -------- The actual construction of the devices and materials described in this text are dangerous, even for an experienced chemist. Also, the construc- tion or possession of many of these devices would be in violation of many federal, state, and local laws. The author or authors are not responsible for what damages or trouble that the missuse of the information that is stated herein. Therefore you are responsible for all of your actions that you make. Intended for information purposes only. So, As you can tell this text is not meant to be read by the total IDIOT! Before you attempt at making any of the devices I would suggest that you have some knowledge about chemistry. Remember: SAFTEY FIRST!!! Page 2 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER ONE [LOW EXPLOSIVES] --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Low explosive are good for making a loud bang, or to scare the living daylight out of some poor person or even for making booby traps. In this chapter I will explain the making of many different types of low explosives. BLACKPOWDER ----------- You will need potassium or sodium nitrate, sulfur, and hardwood charcoal. The common name for potassium nitrate is saltpeter. Sodium nitrate is sold at farm supplies under the name of nitrate of soda. It is also called chile saltpeter. Sodium nitrate make a slightly more powerful black powder but has a disadvantage because it will absorb moisture from the air. So, if you use it then be sure to store it in a dry, air tight container. You also can get sulfur at farm supplies as a wetable powder used for spraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under the name of flowers of sulfur. If you use nitrate of soda, it will be in the form of little round beads. Bake it in an over at 200 degrees for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender and switch it on. It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with a hammer. Dip the results into the blender, grind, and strain through a tea strainer. Mix by volume: 6 parts potassium or sodium nitrate 2 parts powdered charcoal 1 part sulfur This mixture will burn if ignited and will explode if ignited while tightly confined. It can be greatly improved, however, by processing it as follows: Moisten with water until it will stick together when pinched between thumb and finger. Press it into a disposable aluminum pie pan. Bake it in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for about 30 minutes. Get it totally dry. Grind into a fine a powder as possible with a mortar and pestle. If you use a blender at this point, there is a danger of explosion. It is not very sensitive to friction or impact, but is very sensitive to sparks. If you followed these directtions, you should have a fine slate-grey powder. Page 3 OTHER TYPES OF BLACKPOWDER -------------------------- Below are eleven black/gun powder formulas. They are more powerful than the ordinary potassium nitrate powder. The only disadvantage (or advantage) is that it is very sensitive to sparks and some leave a corrosive residue. A word of caution: when you decide to make these compounds be careful for some of them might decide to go up just because they want to. [All chemicals are measured by volume] 1: Potassium perchlorate 69.2% Sulfur 15.4% Charcoal 15.4% 2: Potassium nitrate 70.4% Sulfur 19.4% Sodium sulfate 10.2% 3: Potassium nitrate 64.0% sulfur 12.0% sawdust 17.0% charcoal 7.0% 4: Potassium nitrate 50.0% Ammonium perchlorate 25.0% Sulfur 12.5% charcoal 12.5% 5: Barium nitrate 75.0% Charcoal 12.5% Sulfur 12.5% 6: Sodium peroxide 67.0% Sodium thiosulphate 33.0% 7: Potassium chlorate 75.0% Sulfur 12.5% Charcoal 12.5% 8: Potassium nitrate 79.0% straw charcoal 12.0% sulfur 12.0% 9: Potassium nitrate 70.6% Sulfur 23.5% Antimony sulfate 5.9% Page 4 10: Potassium nitrate 37.5% Starch 37.5% Sulfur 18.75% Antimony powder 6.25% 11: Guanidine nitrate 49.0% Potassium nitrate 40.0% Charcoal 11.0% The above chemical ratios are percentages. When making the stuff, be sure to grind up all the ingredients as fine as you possibly can. The finer you have the chemicals the better it will explode. ZINC EXPLOSIVE -------------- To make a big flash of flames almost instantly try mixing: 1 part Zinc dust 1 part Sulfur When these two mix together they will burst into flame almost instantly! Be careful for it does go off in a sudden flash and can singe anything that it is around if not expecting it. This is not a powerful explosive but it is violent even when not confined, so be careful. WATER FIRE STARTER ------------------ So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it. Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It will ignite the hydrogen and begin burning. Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams Ammonium choride: 1 gram Zinc dust : 8 grams Iodine crystals : 1 gram EXPLOSIVE MIXTURES ------------------ Following is a list of chemicals, most of which can be easily obtained. You will also find the chemical symbol of another chemical which explodes on contact with said chemical. This is useful in making the ever so useful pipe bomb. Just for the people that don't know: Page 5 CHEMICAL EXPLODES WITH --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Acetic acid H2SO4 HNO3 Acetic anhydride H2SO4 HNO3 Acrolein H2SO4 HNO3 Allyl alcohol H2SO4 HNO3 Allyl chloride H2SO4 HNO3 Aniline H2SO4 HNO3 Aniline acetate H2SO4 HNO3 Aniline hydrochloride H2SO4 HNO3 Benzoyl peroxide H2SO4 HNO3 Cyanic acid H2SO4 HNO3 Chlorosulfonic acid H2SO4 HNO3 Dimethyl keytone H2SO4 HNO3 Epichlorohydrin H2SO4 HNO3 Ethylene diamine H2SO4 HNO3 Ethylene imine H2SO4 HNO3 Hydrogen peroxide H2SO4 HNO3 Isoprene H2SO4 HNO3 Mesityl oxide H2SO4 HNO3 Acetone Cyanohydrin H2SO4 Carbon disulfide H2SO4 Cresol H2SO4 Cumene H2SO4 Diisobutylene H2SO4 Ethylene cyanohydrin H2SO4 Ethylene glycol H2SO4 Hydrofluoric acid H2SO4 Cyanide of sodium HNO3 Cyclohexanol HNO3 Cyclohexanone HNO3 Ethyl alcohol HNO3 Hydrazine HNO3 Hydriodic acid HNO3 Isopropyl ether HNO3 Manganese HNO3 H2SO4 - Sulfuric Acid HNO3 - Nitric Acid Page 6 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER TWO [HIGH EXPLOSIVES] --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now, here I stress the word of saftey. These explosive compounds can remove a limb or kill you. So I would suggest, before you even think about trying any of these, that you have some background knowledge on explosive or chemistry. These explosives range from sound sensitive to water sensitive or electrically ignited. It takes time and patience to make high explosive compounds. Some are easier than the others and some of the chemicals seem almost impossible to find. In this part, to obtain most of the chemicals needed her e you will have to go though a chemical supply house. Remember that some of the chemical houses have been told to notify the police if a certain combination of chemicals are ordered then send the name and all the information about that person ordering to the police. And it is possible that you might get a little visit from the city law. Also, making, using, selling, or possession of many of the explosives are illegal and a hard penalty can rise. Even for first offenders. Take this warning. Its true! ASTROLITE --------- The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin. "Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.) compared with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT. In addition, a very unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained detonable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather know what that means?... Astrolite Dynamite! To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G... Feel free to use different ratios. Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydrazide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be careful with. Page 7 ASTROLITE A/A-1-5 ----------------- Ok, here's the good part... Mix 20%(weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate,and then mix with hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS. You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you, if it happens though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap. SODIUM CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES -------------------------- Potassium chlorate is similar to Sodium chlorate,and in most cases can be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00. SODIUM CHLORATE GUNPOWDER ------------------------- 65% sodium chlorate 22% charcoal 13% sulphur and sprinkle some graphite on top. ROCKET FUEL ----------- 6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement. ROCKET FUEL 2 (better performance) ---------------------------------- 50% sodium chlorate 35% rubber cement 10% epoxy resin hardener 5% sulphur You may wish to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using. INCENDIARY MIXTURE ------------------ 55% aluminum powder (atomized) 45% sodium chlorate 5% sulphur Page 8 IMPACT MIXTURE -------------- 50% red phosphorus 50% sodium chlorate Unlike potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mixed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated. FILLER EXPLOSIVE ---------------- 85% sodium chlorate 10% vaseline 5% aluminum powder NITROMETHANE EXPLOSIVES ----------------------- Nitromethane (CH3NO2) Specific gravity: 1.139 Flash point : 95f Auto-ignite : 785f Derivation: Reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure. Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats, etc. To be detonated with a #8 cap, add: 1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. detonation velocity of 6,200MPS. NITROMETHANE 'SOLID' EXPLOSIVES ------------------------------- 2 parts nitromethane 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder) Soak for 3-5 min. when done, store in an air-tight container. This is supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitroglycerin, and has 30% more brisance. PICRIC ACID ----------- Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of sulfuric acid. The mixture is constatnly stirred and kept at a steady temperature of 95 degrees Celsius for four to six hours depending on the quantities of phenol used. After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted Page 9 with distilled water, and an equal excess amount of nitric acid is added. The mixture of the nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will produce heat, so the addition of the acid must be performed slowly but more importantly the temperature of the solution must not go above 110 degrees Celsius. Ten or so minutes after the addition of nitric acid the picric acid will be fully formed and you can drain off the excess acid. It should be filtered and washed in the same manner as above until little or no acid is present. When washing, use only cold water. After this, the pircic acid should be allowed to partially dry. Picric acid is a more powerful explosive than TNT, but it has its disadvantages. It is more expensive to make, and it best handled in a wet 10 percent distilled water form as pictic becomes very unstable when completely dry. This compound should never be put into direct contact with metal, since instantly on contact there is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes spontaneously upon formation. TETRYL ------ A small amount of dimethyllaniline is dissolved in an excess amount of concentrated sulfuric acid. This mixture is now added to an equal amount of nitric acid. The new mixture is kept in an ice bath, and is well stirred. After about five minutes, the tetrylis filtered and then washed in cold water. It is now boiled in fresh water, which contains a small amount of sodium bicarbonate. This process acts to neutralize any remaining acid. The washings are repeated as many times as necessary according to the litmus paper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl is free of acids, filter it from the water and allowed to dry. When tetryl is detonated, it reacts in very much the same way as TNT. PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FROM BLEACH ----------------------------- This explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition were used in WWI as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and morter rounds used by French, German, and some other forces involved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. The procedures in the following paragraph can be dangerous if you don't take special care. One should strive to make sure these explosives are free from sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while in storage. One should never store home made explosives, make enough for what you need at the time. YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS UNTIL IT BLOWS! The manufacter of this explosive from bleach is given just as an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the "Dissociation" reaction to take place. The procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. Page 10 To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach, (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution), obtain a heat source, hot-plate, stove , etc., a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container, a triple beam balance (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride, (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach and place it in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boil until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if battery hydrometer is used, it should read FULL charge). When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celsius. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 mililiters distilled water. Heat that solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals the form upon cooling. This p rocess of purification is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistancy of face powder and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline, (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate, (the powdered crystals from above), in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phophorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax till water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. RDX --- THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE TAKEN SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS. Since the first part of WWII the armed forces of the United States has been searching for the perfect plastique explosives to be used in demolition work. This search lead to the development of the 'C' composition plastique explosives. Of this group C-4 being the lastest formulation that has been readily adopted by the armed forces. This formulation was preceded by C-3, C-2, and C. In this series of articles, I will cover all these explosives in their chronological progression as they were developed and standardized by the armed forces. All these explosives are cyclonite (R.D.X.) base with various plastisizing agents used to achieve the desired product. This plastisizer, usually composes 7%-20% of the total weight of the plastique. Cyclotrimethylenetrinittrime or cyclonite is Page 11 manufactured in bulk by the nitration of hexamethylenetetramine, (methenamine, hexamine, etc., etc.) with strong red 100% nitric acid. The hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid. It will most likely have to be made. More on this later. Hexamine or methenamine can usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine fuel bars fo r camp stoves can be used but they end up being very expensive. To use the fuel bars the need to be powered before hand. The hexamine can also be made with common ammonia water (30%) and the commonly avaliable 36% formaldehyde solution. To make this componant place 185 grams of clear ammonia water in a shallow pyrex dish. To this add 500 ml. of the formaldehyde solution to the ammonia water. Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are all that remains in the pan place the pan in the oven on the lowest heat that the oven has. This should be done only for a moment or so to drive off any remaining water. These crystals are scraped up and placed in a airtight jar to store them until they are used. To make the red nitric acid you will need to buy a retort with a ground glass stopper. In the retort place 32 grams sulfuric acid, (98%-100%), and to this add 68 grams of potassium nitrate or 58 grams of sodium nitrate. Gently heating this retort will generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide. THIS GAS IS HIGHLY POISONOUS AND THIS STEP, AS WITH ALL OTHER STEPS, SHOULD BE DONE WITH GOOD VENTILATION. This nitric acid that is formed will collect in the neck of the retort and form droplets that will run down the inside of the neck of the retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being surrounded by ice water. This should be heated till no more collects in the neck of the retort and the nitric acid quits dripping out of the neck into the beaker. This acid should be stored until enough acid is generated to produce the required size batch which is determined by the person producing the explosive. Of course the batch can be larger or smaller but the same rations should be maintained. To make R.D.X. place 550 grams of the nitric acid produced by the above procedure in a 1000 ml. beaker in a salted bath. 50 grams of hexamine, (methenamine) is added in small portions making sure that the temperature of the acid DOES NOT GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES CELCIUS. This temperature can be monitored by placing a thermometer directly in the acid mixture. During this procedure a vigorous stirring should be maintained. If the temperature approaches 30 degrees, IMMEDIATLY STOP THE ADDITION OF THE HEXAMINE until the temperature drops to an acceptable level. After the addition is complete continue the stirring and allow the temperature to drop to 0 degrees celcius and allow it to stay there for 20 minutes coninuing the vigorous stirring. After the 20 minutes are up, pour this acid-hexamine mixture into 1000 ml. of finely crushed ice and water. Crystals should form and are filtered out of the liquid. The crystals that are filtered out are R.D.X. and will need to have all traces of the acid removed. To remove this trace of acid, first wash these crystals by putting them in ice water and shaking and refiltering. These crystals are then placed in a little boiling water and filtered. Place them in some warm water and check the acidity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper. You want it to read between 6 and 7 on the Ph scale. If there is still acid in these crystals reboil them in fresh water until the acid is removed and the litmus paper shows them between 6 and 7, (the closer to 7 the better). To be safe these crystals should be stored water wet until ready for use. THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE TREATED WITH THE RESPECT THEY DESERVE! This explosive is much more powerful than T.N.T. To use, these will need to be dryed for some manufaturing processes in the next few articles. To dry these crystals, place them in a pan and spread them out and allow the water to evaporate off them until the are completely dry. This explosive will detonate in this dry form when Page 12 pressed into a mold to a density of 1.55 grams cubed, at a velocity of 8550 M/second! COMPOSITION 'C' --------------- All of the type 'C' plastic explosives (that includes C-2, C-3, and C-4) are exceedingly powerful and should be used with utmost care. This explosive is just a copy of a British explosive that was adopted early in WWII. This explosive is the choice explosive of the type 'C' compounds because of its relative ease of manufacture and the easy aquisition of the plastizer compound. This explosive was available in standard demolition blocks. This explosive was standardized and adopted in the following composition: R.D.X.......................... 88.3% Heavy mineral oil.............. 11.1% Lecithin....................... 00.6% (all percentages are by weight) In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of large crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the explosive. This explosive has a good deal of power and is relatively non-toxic (except when ingested). It is also plastic from 0-40 degrees celcius. Above 40 degrees the explosive undergoes extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive properties go relatively unimpaired. Below 0 degrees celcius it becomes brittle and its cap sensitivity is lessened considerably. Manufacturing this explosive can be done two ways. First being to dissolve the 11.7% plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the R.D.X. and allowing the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of all gasoline. The second method being the simple kneading of the plastisizing compound into the R.D.X. until a uniform mixture is obtained. This explosive should be stored in a cool-dry place. If properly made the plastique should be very stable in storage even if stored at elevated temparatures for long periods of time. It should be very cap sensitive. A booster will be a good choice, especially if used below 0 degrees celcius. This detonates at a velocity of 7900/MPS. COMPOSITION C-2 AND C-3 ----------------------- These are highly undesirable because of certain trait each has and they don't produce as much power as 'C' and 'C-4' compounds. Page 13 It is not recommended you make these two types of plastique, this part was written for imformatative purposes only. Composition 'C-2' is harder to make than 'C-4' and is TOXIC TO HANDLE. It is also unstable in storage and is poor choice for home explosive manufacture. It also has a lower detonation velocity than either 'C-4' or 'C-3'. It is manufactured in a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the same procedure used in incorperation of 'C-3'. Its composition is as follows: R.D.X................... 80% Mononitrotolulene....... 5% Dinitrotolulene......... 5% T.N.T. guncotton........ 5% Dimethylformide......... 5% (see below for rest of recipe) 'C-3' was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of 'C-2'. It was standardized and adopted by the military as following composition: R.D.X................ 77% Mononitrotolulene.... 16% Dinitrotolulene...... 5% Tetryl............... 1% T.N.T. guncotton..... 1% 'C-3' is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam jacketed melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring attachment. The kettle is heated to 90-100 degrees celcius and the stirrer is activated. Water wet R.D.X. is added to the plastisizing agent and the stirring is continued until a uniform mixture is obtained and all water has been driven off. Remove the heat source but continue to stir the mixture until it has cooled to room temperature. This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T. Storage at 65 degrees celcius for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not impair it's explosive properties. 'C-3' is 133% as good as an explosive as T.N.T. The major drawback of 'C-3' is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of its weight although the explosives detonation properties are not affected. Water does not affect explosives preformance. Thus it is very good for under-water demolition uses and would be a good choice for such an application. When stored at 77 degrees celcius considerable extrudation takes place. It will become hard at -29 degrees celcius and is hard to detonate at this temperature. While this explosive is not unduely toxic, it should be handled with care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through the skin. Page 14 It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of a booster is always suggested. This explosive has a great blast effect and was avaliable in standard demolition blocks. Its detonation velocity is approximately 7700 MPS. GELATIN DYNAMITE ---------------- Below are five different ways to make a very common explosive. Dynamite. 1) Nitro........................ 12% Guncotten.................... .5% Amonium nitrate.............. 87.5% 2) Nitro........................ 88% Potassium nitrate............ 5% Tetryl....................... 7% 3) Nitro........................ 24% Guncotten.................... 1% Amonium nitrate.............. 75% 4) Nitro........................ 75% Guncotten.................... 5% Potassium nitrate............ 15% Wood meal.................... 5% 5) Nitro........................ 80% Ethalyne glycol dinitrate.... 20% After making this stuff, pack it in a cardboard tube and expoxy each end. But be careful for it might be a little unstable because of the nitroglycerine (nitro). Before it is totally dry stick a good fuse in one of the ends. Light, Throw, and run as if your life depended on it! Which in a way it does. PEROXYACETONE ------------- Peroxyacetone is VERY flamable & has been reported to be shock sensitive. Materials: 4ml of Acetone 4ml of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide 4 of drops conc. hydrochloric acid 150mm test tube Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at LEAST a meter away). Page 15 CELLULOSE NITRATE (GUNCOTTON) ----------------------------- Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that it does not give off smoke when it burns. Materials: 70ml of concentrated sulfuric acid 30ml of concentrated nitric acid 5g of absorbent cotton 250ml of sodium bicarbonate 250ml beaker ice bath tongs paper towels Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml sodium bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry overnight. NITROGEN TRIIODIDE ------------------ This is very shock sensitive when it comes to being agitated, moved, dropped, touched, breathed on... etc. For one thing I hope you don't do any of those. This has a high explosive value to it. It can move a lot of mass with just a little compound. I have heard so many different ways to make this, and this is the best one. I think. Take a medium glass and fill it up with ammonium hydroxide (household ammonia). Take some iodine crystals and pour about a fourth of the glass full. Wait about 30 minutes to an hour then pour off the liquid remaining. Now, what you have in the glass it called nitrogen tri-iodide, which is very sensitive to touch. But, it is perfectly save when it is wet. Thats why you do not let it dry until you want to use it. To detonate it just pour some of the wet stuff on an object and wait till omething agitates it. Remember too much can harm a lot of things. It does pack a wallop! NITROGLYCERIN ------------- Nitroglycerin is a very high explosive. It is used all around the world to do many different types of jobs. To make nitro here is what you have to do: By weight, one part of glycerin is nitrated with 6 parts of mixed acid. The mixed acid is composed of 40% nitric and 60% sulfuric acid. The sulfuric acid is slowly added to the nitric acid with constant stirring. Never mix them the other way round for they will splatter. Each part of glycerin will yield 2.3 parts of nitroglycerin. The temperature when adding the glycerin to the acids should never go above 25 degrees Page 16 centigrade. If it does or if red fumes appear, the whole mess should be dumped into cold water fast. Do not take this as an encouragement to make nitroglycerin. It is a dangerous procedure to mix all these types of acids together and can easily be lost control of. MAKING SULFURIC ACID -------------------- No, your not really MAKING sulfuric acid, you are just making it more concentrated. All you need to do is to take a old car battery and dump all of the acid into a GLASS bowl that can be set on a stove. Do not use metal for unwanted occurances could come about. Just take the old acid and boil it until you see white fumes come out. When you do immediately turn off the heat and let it cool. One thing, DO NOT use a gas stove. Use an electric hot plate & make it outside because the fumes are very poisonous. T.N.T (Trinitrotoulene) -------------------------- Mix 170 parts toulene with 100 parts acid. The acid being composed of: 2 parts 70% nitric acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid. Mix below 30 degrees. Set this for 30 minutes and let seperate. Take the mononitro- toluene and mix with 100 parts of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid being composed of: 1 part pure nitric acid and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid. Keep the temperature at 60 -70 degrees while they are slowly mixed. Raise temperature to 90 - 100 degrees and stir for 30 minutes. The dinitrotoulene is seperated and mixed with 100 parts of this with 225 parts of 20% oleum, which is 100% sulfuric acid with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 64 parts nitric acid. Heat at 95 degrees for 60 minutes and then at 120 degrees for 90 minutes. Seperate the trini- trotoluene and slosh it around in hotwater. Purify the powder by soaking it in benzene. MERCURY FUMLMINATE ------------------ Mix 2 parts of Nitric Acid with 2 part alcohol (any kind) and 1 part mercury. This is very shock sensitive explosive. Be careful, Nitric Acid is an unstable acid. It will react to agitation. Page 17 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER THREE [INCENDIARIES] --------------------------------------------------------------------------- What is an incendiary? Those are compounds that do not go "boom", but can burn fast and generate a lot of heat. For example, thermite, its an incendiary, because it can produce temperatures will up in the hundreds and can even melt metal. NAPALM ------ This is just gasoline in a thickend form. What it does is burn for long periods of time. If it is made right I hear that water can't even put it out. What you do is take some polystyrine (styrofoam) and place it in some unleaded gasoline (unleaded works better). Keep feeding styrofoam to the gas until you can not feed any more at all. At points it will look like thats all it can take, just wait for a minute and let the other gas rise to the top. It will take a lot of stryrofoam until you get what you want. When it is done, it will burn for a long time. I would suggest that you do not place any on you because once it is lit it will travel quite quickly since it melts the thickend gasoline and it rolls down. This is also fun to play with. The only problem with it is it gives off too much smoke (which, I may add - is poison). THERMITE -------- This is the arsonists dream! Thermite is a very hot mixture. Although it is slightly hard to get ignited, so it is safe to transport it. Here is what you do: Thermite is made from powdered aluminum and iron oxide (rust). Mix two parts by volume powdered alumnium with three parts iron oxide. This stuff is hard to light, but once you get it going don't plan on putting it out, because it can produce enough heat to melt through a steel plate. The finer the ingredients are the easier it will be to ignite. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES ----------------------------- A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well. Page 18 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER FOUR [SMOKE BOMBS] --------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, you want a smoke screen? Well this chapter will explain how many different types of smoke can be made. Even colored smoke. SMOKE PRODUCER -------------- The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary for larger amounts of smoke. 6g zinc powder 1g sulfur powder Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should be created. SMOKE BOMB ---------- This is the father of all smoke bombs. Mix: 2 part Potassium Nitrate 1 Part Granulated sugar. Put this under a very low heat source and melt the sugar and potassium nitrate. After it is melted let it set and get hard. When it gets hard, just take outside and hold a lit match on an area of the smoke bomb and wait till it lights. You will know when it is about to ignite because the stuff turns black and will then spit and sputter and smoke will pour out of the compound. You also can light it without melting it but it burns too fast and will make a hudge flame while the other one does not. HTH CHLORINE SMOKE BOMB ----------------------- Take HTH pool chlorine and some non-silicon brake fluid and mix the two together in a ratio of 4 parts chlorine to 1 part brake fluid. When you mix the two together they will begin to sizzle and then it will begin to smoke. It will take about 30 seconds to start smoking fully. When it does begin to smoke it will produce a stinking cloud of thick white smoke. If you do not be careful it could burst into flames and burn what it is in. I suggest to place the mixture in a glass container for it gets real hot. And anybody in their right mind will not go pick it up and try to throw it when it has done smoking. The smoke is known to last for over 2 minutes and is also toxic because it produces chlorine gas, which is deadly! Page 19 SMOKE MIXTURES -------------- [Black] Hexachloroethane......... 60% Anthracene............... 20% Magnesium (powder)....... 20% [Brown] Pitch.................... 29.2% Potasium Nitrate......... 47.4% Borax.................... 10.6% Calcium Carbonate......... 4.9% Sand...................... 4.0% Sulfur.................... 3.9% [Grey] Hexachloroethane......... 50% Zinc Powder.............. 25% Zinc Oxide............... 10% Potassium Nitrate........ 10% Colophony Resin........... 5% [Grey] Hexachloroethane......... 45.5% Zinc Oxide............... 45.5% Calcium Silicide.......... 9.0% [White] Potassium Chlorate....... 20% Ammonium Chloride........ 50% Naphthalene.............. 20% Charcoal................. 10% [White] Potassium nitrate........ 48.5% Sulfur................... 48.5% Realgar................... 3.0% [White] Potassium Nitrate........ 50% Sugar.................... 50% [Yellow] Potassium Nitrate........ 25% Sulfur................... 16% Realgar.................. 59% Page 20 [White] Potassium nitrate......... 6% Antimony sulfide.......... 1% Powdered sulfur........... 1% [Yellow] Potassium nitrate......... 4% Powdered sulfur........... 1% Charcoal.................. 2% Sodium chloride........... 3% [Yellow] Powdered sulfur........... 4% Charcoal.................. 1% Potassium nitrate........ 24% Sodium carbonate.......... 6% [Red] Strontium nitrate......... 4% Powdered orange shellac... 1% [Red] Strontium nitrate........ 11% Powdered sulfur........... 4% Charcoal.................. 1% Calcium carbonate........ 11% Potassium nitrate......... 1% [Purple] Copper sulfate............ 1% Strontium nitrate......... 1% Powdered sulfur........... 1% Charcoal.................. 1% Potassium nitrate......... 3% [Green] Barium nitrate............ 7% Powdered sulfur........... 4% Charcoal.................. 1% Potassium nitrate......... 1% [Green] Barium chlorate........... 9% Powdered orange shellac... 1% [Blue] Anitmony sulfide.......... 2% Powdered sulfur........... 4% Potassium nitrate........ 12% Page 21 [Blue] Potassium nitrate........ 12% Powdered sulfur........... 3% charcoal.................. 1% Copper sulfate............ 2% Powdered rosin............ 1% CHLORINE & TURPENTINE --------------------- Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start burning... Page 22 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER FIVE [BOMBS] --------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the point I really stress the word saftey! At this point it should be well excercised and you had better know what you are doing before you even attempt to construct some of these devices. Remember that the law prohibits the manufacture and use of such devices, and you could be breaking the law in some places. If you do make on of the devices that is listed in here then I would suggest you make a prototype and set that one off in the country and if it worked correctly then make your final one and use it the way you had in mind. GENERIC BOMB ------------ Aquire a glass container. Put in a few drops of gasoline. Cap the top and turn the container around to coat the inner surface. Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (found in a snake-bite kit) . To detonate just throw against a hard object. I hear this is the same as a half stick of dynamite! FIREBOMBS --------- Most firebombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a oil soaked rag in the mouth. The original firebomb was one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil makes it splatter and stick on what your trying to burn. Some use one part roofing tar or one part melting wax to 2 parts gasoline. PIPE BOMB --------- A pipe bomb is very easy to make. But is also very dangerous! To construct a pipe bomb you will need a piece of pipe about one foot long. Some fine gun powder, a solar ignitor, and a battery. Cap one end of the pipe very good with a cap. Pour some gun powder in the other end about little over the middle. Cap the pipe on the other end and make a small hole in the middle of the pipe. Now wrap the whole pipe in electric tape and make the hole again. Place in the head of the solar ignitor in the hole. Tape the ignitor down so it will not fall out. To ignite the bomb I suggest you take a VERY long wire and connect it to the electrodes of the solar ignitor and run it very far away. Then connect the battery at the other end of the wire. DO NOT touch the battery to the electrodes of the bomb for even a second, because it WILL explode!!! Remember take a long two conductor wire and connect it to the electrodes and run it far away and then connect the battery to it. If you made it correctly it will explode upon contact with the battery! Remember, this can kill you. This also can do a lot of property damage. Page 23 CONTACT GRENADE --------------- Materials: 2-3 in. section of pipe PVC (for test and fun) Steel (for shrapnel) 12 guage shotgun shell (fitted to pipe) marble ping pong ball cap for pipe 2-3 ft. ribbon (flights) explosive charge (of personal preferance) a 1/2 or 1/4 cup petrol makes an excellent charge when vaporized filling the pipe with gunpowder is simplest or any STABLE flammable explosive one may have. This design is a modified pipebomb which will be set off upon hard contact. This makes things much easier than tossing molotove cocktails or lighting fuses as all you do is throw it and it should detonate on contact. 1) Cut the plastic of the shotgun shell off of the primer and set aside. 2) Carefully fit the primer into one end of the pipe and epoxy securely. 3) Glue the marble to the 'dimple' of the primer. 4) Cut the ping pong ball in half and then glue half onto the marble to make a simple form of casing. 5) Put explosive charge into the hollow pipe (if useing gasoline use only 1/4 of the volume of pipe. Reason: 1 gal. of gas vapor = 16 sticks dynamite!!!). 6) Cap the pipe and epoxy into place. 7) Tie ribbon around tail section of pipe. Relax. Now that its finished heres how it works. When thrown the grenade will come down upon the point because of the tail flights. When it hits, the primer will be crushed by the marble, setting it off. The primer then ignites the explosive charge. I heartily recommend that PVC be used for testing as the steel pipe is rather dangerous. This design is not a toy and should not be built to be played with. If you want a toy just empty a shotgun shell and tape a marble to the primer and throw. It makes a quasi-safe firework. Page 24 CARBIDE BOMB ------------ Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in curring torches. Eventually the glass will explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball. HINDENBERG BOMB --------------- Get, a balloon, bottle, Liquid Plummer, foil, and a length of fuse. Fill the bottle 3/4 full with the Liquid plummer and add a little piece of alumninum foil. Put the balloon over the next of the bottle until the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the balloon. Tape the fuse to the outside of the inflated balloon and light. Let the balloon rise into the air. When the fuse gets to the balloon and bursts it, the hydrogen will cause a fireball. Another file downloaded from: ! -$- & the Temple of the Screaming Electron ! * Walnut Creek, CA + /^\ | ! | |/\/^\ _^_ 2400/1200/300 baud (415) 935-5845 /^\ / @ | \/_-_\ Jeff Hunter, Sysop |@ \_| @ @|- - -| \ | | | /^\ | _ | - - - - - - - - - * |___/_\___|_|_|_(_)_| Aaaaaeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! / Specializing in conversations, E-Mail, obscure information, entertainment, the arts, politics, futurism, thoughtful discussion, insane speculation, and wild rumours. An ALL-TEXT BBS. "Raw Data for Raw Nerves."