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- hEAT sINKING icS IN THE c-64
-
- sOLID STATE DEVICES SUCH AS iNTEGRATED cIRCUITS (icS) FAIL FOR TWO
- BASIC REASONS, ASSUMING THEY WERE NOT DEFECTIVE FROM THE FACTORY:
- OVERVOLTAGE AND EXCESSIVE HEAT. tHE CAUSES OF OVERVOLTAGE BY WAY OF THE
- POWER SUPPLY ARE PREDICTABLE. tHE cOMMODORE "BLACK BRICK" HAS A HISTORY OF
- CATASTROPHIC FAILURE, SOMETIMES TAKING THE COMPUTER WITH IT. aFTER MARKET
- REPAIRABLE SUPPLIES ARE MUCH MORE RELIABLE. vOLTAGE "SPIKES" AND STATIC
- ELECTRICITY CAN DESTROY icS IN THE COMPUTER THROUGH ANY OF THE ACCESSORY
- PORTS. bOTH OF THESE HAZZARDS ARE PREVENTABLE TO A DEGREE... THE USE OF A
- HIGHER QUALITY SUPPLY AND SIMPLE PRECAUTIONS SUCH AS NEVER PLUGGING
- ANYTHING IN (CARTRIDGES, MOUSE, ETC.) WHEN THE COMPUTER IS TURNED ON JUST
- MAKE GOOD SENSE.
- a LESS PREDICTABLE BUT NONETHELESS IMPORTANT CONCERN IS THE FACT THAT
- REPEATED HEATING AND COOLING OF SEMICONDUCTOR DEVICES (ESPECIALLY icS AND
- POWER TRANSISTORS/DIODES) WITH NORMAL USE, EVEN WITHIN THEIR NORMAL
- TEMPERATURE RANGE, WILL EVENTUALLY CAUSE THEM TO FAIL. iT IS USUALLY THE
- DEVICES THAT GENERATE THE MOST HEAT IN NORMAL OPERATION THAT FAIL FIRST.
- iT'S A BIT LIKE BENDING A PIECE OF METAL BACK AND FORTH UNTIL IT FATIGUES
- AND BREAKS. rEPEATED HEATING AND COOLING DOES THE SAME THING TO THE
- STRUCTURE OF THE MICROSCOPIC COMPONENTS INSIDE AN ic OR TRANSISTOR.
- yOU COULD LEAVE THE COMPUTER ON 24 HOURS A DAY... SOME SYSTEMS RUN
- THAT WAY. a bbs IS A GOOD EXAMPLE. i KNOW OF ONE SYSTEM THAT HAS RUN
- WITHOUT A BREAKDOWN FOR OVER 10 YEARS (EXCEPT FOR THE OLD HARD DRIVE POWER
- SUPPLIES). fOR MOST OF US HOWEVER, THE COMPUTER DOESN'T GET ENOUGH USE TO
- JUSTIFY THE EXPENSE OF A SYSTEM RUNNING ALL THE TIME. aN ALTERNATE
- SOLUTION IS TO REDUCE THE EXTREMES OF TEMPERATURE INSIDE THE icS BY THE
- USE OF HEAT "SINKS", AND THEREBY REDUCE THE THERMAL STRESS ON THE DEVICES.
- mICROPROCESSORS IN NEW ibm TYPE COMPUTERS ARE RUNNING SO FAST
- NOWADAYS (100mhZ AND UP) THAT HEAT SINKING AND DIRECT FAN COOLING IS AN
- ABSOLUTE NECESSITY! tHOSE CHIPS WOULD OVERHEAT AND FAIL IN MINUTES WITHOUT
- SOME METHOD TO DISSIPATE THAT HEAT. sOME OF THE cOMMODORE 64 icS RUN TOO
- HOT TO TOUCH IN NORMAL OPERATION. tHERE ARE TWO SIMPLE MODIFICATIONS YOU
- CAN DO TO IMPROVE THE RELIABILITY OF YOUR c-64, NAMELY, INCREASING THE
- AIRFLOW INSIDE THE CASE, AND HEAT-SINKING THE icS.
- tHE PHYSICAL DESIGN OF THE c64 LIMITS THE AIRFLOW OVER THE CHIPS.
- tINY AIR VENTS IN SEVERAL PLACES IN THE UPPER AND LOWER HALF-SHELLS OFFER
- MINIMAL CONVECTION COOLING. tHAT CARDBOARD AND TINFOIL SHIELD INSIDE THE
- EARLY c64S, ALTHOUGH OF QUESTIONABLE USEFULLNESS AS AN INTERFERENCE
- FILTER, IS VERY GOOD AT BLOCKING THE AIRFLOW AND HOLDING ALL THE HEAT
- INSIDE THE CASE. i HAVE RUN TESTS TO SEE HOW EFFECTIVE THAT SHIELD IS IN
- REDUCING RADIO AND tv INTERFERENCE. i FOUND LITTLE DIFFERENCE AFTER
- REMOVING THE SHIELD. iN FACT, A STOCK 1541 (WITH ALL SHIELDS IN PLACE)
- GENERATES MORE "NOISE" THAN THE c64 WITH OR WITHOUT IT'S SHIELD.
- fOUR OF THE LARGE icS TEND TO RUN HOT NORMALLY: THE pla, THE sid, THE
- mpu AND THE vic. tHESE ARE THE ONES THAT FAIL MOST OFTEN, AND IN ABOUT
- THAT ORDER. tHEY WOULD BENEFIT MOST FROM "HEAT SINKING"... DRAWING AWAY
- THE NORMALLY PRODUCED WASTE HEAT FROM THE DEVICE BY MEANS OF A METAL "FIN"
- ATTACHED TO THE CASE OF THE ic. tHE LATER c64, THE c64c AND THE "FLAT"
- c128 ALL HAVE A METAL SHIELD WITH "FINGERS" THAT TOUCH EACH OF THE LARGER
- CHIPS. tHE c-128d (METAL BOX) HAS NO SUCH SHIELD BUT DOES HAVE SPACE FOR
- A SMALL INTERNAL FAN NEAR THE POWER SUPPLY. note: qUITE A FEW 128d'S WERE
- SHIPPED WITHOUT A FAN INSTALLED. cOMMODORE SAVED A FEW BUCKS. tHE sx-64
- HAS ONE HEAT SINK GLUED TO THE vic CHIP, AND THE c64 HAS A METAL "FINGER"
- TOUCHING THE vic INSIDE THE METAL BOX. oTHER THAN THAT, c64'S AND sx'S
- HAVE NO SINKING FOR THE HOT CHIPS. hOWEVER, YOU CAN EASILY MAKE AND
- INSTALL THEM YOURSELF TO EXTEND THE LIFE OF YOUR COMPUTER.
- rEMOVE THE SCREWS FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE COMPUTER, BUT LEAVE THE
- KEYBOARD IN PLACE. rUN THE COMPUTER FOR 15 MINUTES OR SO, LIFT THE
- KEYBOARD AND FEEL THE TOPS OF ALL THE CHIPS... SOME WILL BE QUITE WARM.
- tHOSE ARE THE ONES THAT MOST NEED THE HELP! yOU CAN PURCHASE COMMERCIAL
- HEAT SINKS THAT FASTEN TO THE TOP OF THE CHIPS WITH CLAMPS, ADHESIVE
- STRIPS OR GLUE. rADIO sHACK AND OTHER PARTS HOUSES CAN SUPPLY THEM IN A
- VARIETY OF SIZES. iF YOU WANT TO MAKE YOUR OWN, ANY THIN METAL STOCK WILL
- DO. tHE ONLY CONSIDERATION IS THAT IT BE FLEXIBLE ENOUGH TO BEND WITHOUT
- BREAKING, AND STIFF ENOUGH TO HOLD ITS' SHAPE WHEN BENT. iT MUST BE FLAT
- ON THE BOTTOM FOR INTIMATE CONTACT WHEN GLUED TO THE CHIP. i USE STRIPS OF
- "TIN" CUT FROM LARGE JUICE CANS. wITH TIN SNIPS, CUT A PIECE OF METAL
- ABOUT 4" LONG AND ABOUT 1.5" WIDE FROM THE "UN-RIBBED" PART OF THE CAN,
- AND BEND IT TO FIT THE TOP OF THE ic. cAREFUL! tHOSE CUT ENDS ARE RAZOR
- SHARP! tHE TOP OF A 28 PIN CHIP SUCH AS THE pla IS APPROXIMATELY 1.5" LONG
- AND 5/8" WIDE. tHE HEAT SINK IS FASHIONED INTO A "u" SHAPE WITH "EARS"
- THAT EXTEND OUT TO EITHER SIDE (SEE DIAGRAM). tHE SINK EARS ARE MADE HIGH
- ENOUGH TO CLEAR ALL COMPONENTS ON THE pc BOARD, BUT NOT TOUCHING THE
- KEYBOARD WHEN IT IS REATTACHED: BEND THE EARS OVER ABOUT 1/2" FROM THE TOP
- OF THE ic. tHE LARGE "SURFACE AREA" OF THE ADDED HEAT SINK IS NECESSARY
- SINCE THE AIRFLOW INSIDE THE CASE IS POOR.
-
- side view of heat sink attached to ic
-
- {$7c}<-------------- approx 3" --------------------->{$7c}
-
- {$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7c} {$7c}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}
- .5" /\ {$7c}<---5/8"---->{$7c}<----- heat sink
- \/ {$7c}_____________{$7c}
- ---- =============== <------ adhesive
- {$7c}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7e}{$7c}
- {$7c}______{$7c}______{$7c}<----ic
- ___________________!________!______________<----circuit
- ! ! board
-
- uSE FAST-SET EPOXY TO ATTACH THE SINK TO THE ic. iF YOU HAVE SEVERAL
- SINKS PREPARED AHEAD OF TIME, YOU CAN MIX ONE BATCH AND GLUE THEM ALL
- BEFORE THE EPOXY STARTS TO SET. pRINT THE NAME OR NUMBER ON THE TOP OF THE
- SINK WITH A FELT TIP PEN AHEAD OF TIME SO YOU CAN STILL IDENTIFY THE CHIPS
- WHEN YOU'RE DONE. bE CAREFUL NOT TO USE TOO MUCH GLUE (ONE SMALL PEA-SIZED
- DROP IS PLENTY), OR IT WILL OOZE OUT THE SIDES AND DOWN INTO THE SOCKET.
- (nOTE: NOT ALL CHIPS ARE SOCKETED.) sPREAD THE EPOXY OVER THE SINK (OR ON
- TOP OF THE CHIP) AND GENTLY PRESS IT INTO PLACE. i DON'T RECOMMEND SUPER
- GLUE AS THE SURFACE OF THE METAL WILL NOT BE FLAT ENOUGH FOR A GOOD BOND.
- hEAT SINK (WHITE SILICON "GOO") COMPOUND IS STICKY ENOUGH IF THE COMPUTER
- WILL NEVER BE MOVED, BUT i DON'T RECOMMEND IT EITHER. iF THE METAL SINK
- FALLS INTO THE COMPUTER, IT WILL MOST CERTAINLY SHORT SOMETHING OUT. ePOXY
- FORMS A GOOD BOND EVEN WITH IRREGULAR SURFACES, AS IT FILLS THE "VOIDS"
- AND PROVIDES SUFFICIENT HEAT TRANSFER TO THE SINK. jUST MAKE SURE THE
- METAL IS FREE OF DIRT, OIL, FINGERPRINTS, ETC. BEFORE YOU APPLY THE GLUE.
- uSE GREASE-CUTTING SOLVENT ON BOTH SURFACES, IF NECESSARY. pAINT THINNER
- WORKS WELL.
- aS i STATED, THE CHIPS THAT BENEFIT MOST FROM SINKING ARE THE LARGE
- HEAT PRODUCING ONES, LIKE THE pla (cbm #906114-xx, 82s100pla, OR 93459),
- THE sid (cbm #906112-xx OR 6581), AND THE vic (cbm #906109 OR 6567). tHE
- vic CHIP IS ALREADY SINKED IN LATER c-64S. iT'S INSIDE A METAL BOX... THE
- COVER HAS A TAB THAT TOUCHES THE CHIP. iF YOURS DOESN'T HAVE ONE, SINK IT.
- yOU CAN USE THE "FINGER" TEST TO SEE IF ANY OTHER CHIPS IN YOUR COMPUTER
- RUN HOT ENOUGH TO NEED SINKING (TOO HOT TO TOUCH AFTER 1/2 AN HOUR WITH
- THE CASE CLOSED). tHE ONLY OTHER CHIP i WOULD SINK WOULD BE THE mpu
- (6510), ALTHOUGH i HAVE ONLY SEEN A FEW BAD ONES. mAKE SURE THE HEAT SINK
- FINS DON'T TOUCH ANY CIRCUIT COMPONENTS AND CAUSE A SHORT! tHE TWO via
- (6526) CHIPS RUN COOL TO THE TOUCH AND DON'T REALLY NEED SINKING. sINCE
- THEY CONNECT TO THE EXTERNAL PORTS, THEY ARE MORE SENSITIVE TO STATIC
- "ZAPS". tHE romS RUN WARM. tHE EIGHT ram CHIPS (4164) NORMALLY RUN COOL,
- AT LEAST UNTIL THE POWER SUPPLY REGULATOR FAILS. wHEN ram CHIPS GET HOT TO
- THE TOUCH, THEY'RE GONE!
- hEAT SINKING CAN BE ADDED TO THE CHIPS IN THE 1541 DISK DRIVE AS
- WELL. iTS' POWER SUPPLY IS INTERNAL, MAKING ic HEAT BUILDUP EVEN WORSE.
- tHE PROBLEM WITH MODIFICATIONS TO THE DRIVE IS THE SPACE LIMITATIONS
- INSIDE THE CASE. iT'S PRETTY CROWDED IN THERE, BUT IT CAN BE DONE. fIND
- THE CHIPS THAT GET THE HOTTEST AS DESCRIBED WITH THE c-64 AND ADD SINKING
- AS NECESSARY. tHE HEAT SINKS YOU MAKE WILL HAVE TO BE CUT TO FIT THE SPACE
- ALLOWED. tHE TWO BRIDGE RECTIFIER BLOCKS GET -VERY- HOT AND WOULD
- CERTAINLY BENEFIT FROM SINKING. tHE EASIEST WAY IS TO CUT AND FORM THE
- METAL SO IT FORMS A u SHAPE TO CLAMP OVER THE DIODES (WITHOUT TOUCHING THE
- WIRING, OF COURSE). a SMALL AMOUNT OF EPOXY ON ONE SIDE WILL HOLD IT IN
- PLACE.
- tHE 1571 HAS AN INTERNAL SWITCH-MODE POWER SUPPLY THAT ALL BUT
- ELIMINATES HEAT PROBLEMS. tHE 1541-ii AND 1581 BOTH USE EXTERNAL SUPPLIES
- AND CONSEQUENTLY RUN COOLER. nO MATTER WHAT EQUIPMENT YOU HAVE, IT'S
- IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE VENTS CLEAR ON THE COMPUTER AND ACCESSORIES. dON'T
- PUT PAPERS, BOOKS OR DISKS OVER THE VENT HOLES ON THE COMPUTER, DRIVES OR
- MONITOR. dON'T STACK 1541S. rEPLACE YOUR ORIGINAL c-64 SUPPLY WITH ONE OF
- THE REPAIRABLE "HEAVY DUTY" TYPES. a SMALL FAN PLACED ON THE REAR OF THE
- 1541 DRIVE IS PROBABLY THE BEST WAY TO FAN-COOL IT. sINKING THE CHIPS THAT
- RUN HOT AND INSTALLING A FAN IN THE c128d ARE GOOD WAYS TO EXTEND THE LIFE
- OF THAT COMPUTER. tHERE IS PLENTY OF ROOM IN THE BOX FOR BOTH.
- ic CHIPS AND OTHER PARTS FOR cOMMODORE COMPUTERS AND PERIFERALS ARE
- IN SHORT SUPPLY. oBVIOUSLY, SINKING WILL NOT HELP A CHIP THAT IS ALREADY
- FAILING FROM EXCESSIVE HEAT, BUT WITH THE SIMPLE SUGGESTIONS AND
- MODIFICATIONS DESCRIBED HERE, YOU CAN HELP TO EXTEND THE LIFE OF THE icS
- AND KEEP YOUR cOMMODORE SYSTEM HUMMING ALONG FOR MANY MORE YEARS.
-
- rAY cARLSEN cet