Complete Bookshop/CompleteWorkshop.iso/how_to/openpool/openpool.txt

Text File | 1992-02-18 | 13KB | 271 lines

               OPENING YOUR POOL IN THE SPRING


     Much confusion reigns over when and how to open a
swimming pool in the spring.  Hopefully, I can help simplify
the matter with a few tips.  I will outline in order of
preference the steps for opening your pool and enjoying a
clear and sparkling pool for the whole summer.

GETTING STARTED

     The first thing to do is take an inventory of all
supplies on hand.  You will need sodium bicarbonate (to
adjust TOTAL ALKALINITY), sodium carbonate (soda ash) or acid
to adjust the pH of the water, chlorine (calcium hypochlorite
liquid chlorine 10% or more, or lithium hypochlorite),
chlorine tablets (1", 3", or sticks), stabilizer or
conditioner (they are both cyanuric acid), and cleaning
supplies (brushes, telepoles, cleaning solutions, etc.).  By
doing this first you will cut your trips to the pool store in
half.  Most of the chemicals are included in spring start up
kits available through many mail order companies or at your
local pool store.

     If you lower your pool water for the winter, start off
by filling the pool.  Always fill on the deep end of the
pool, being careful not to allow water to run from shallow to
deep end.  This will help prevent any staining caused by
iron, copper, or manganese in the pool water.  It is also a
good idea to add a quart of a chelating chemical (stain
preventative) to the water to help prevent staining.  When
filling the pool do not shut off the water before the pool is
finished filling.  This is especially important on gunite
(plaster) pools since the water may leave a bathtub ring at a
level other than operating level.

     After the pool is full it is time to remove the winter
cover.  This is a bit tricky if you have a solid cover so if
you can get some people together to help I would strongly
recommend it.  Remove any water that has accumulated on top
of the cover.  Begin by starting at the deep end and pulling
the cover back toward the shallow end.  In the event someone
should fall in they are better off in the shallow end.

     Next pull a sample of pool water from the deep end of
the pool.  You should dip a PLASTIC container at least elbow
deep.  Always use plastic or acrylic (shatter proof)
containers around the pool.  Test the sample for total
alkalinity, pH, hardness, stabilizer, and chlorine.  Yes,
chlorine.  You would be surprised at how much chlorine
remains in some pools after a long winter.  If you can
perform only two or three of the tests, take your water to
the local pool store for full analysis.  This is perhaps the
most important step in starting the pool since properly
balanced water will make the job of cleaning and clearing you
pool much easier.  Think of it as checking the car before a
trip around the United States.  You wouldn't start out a
quart low on oil.

                    PROPER WATER BALANCE

     pH -- 7.2 TO 7.8  IDEAL 7.4 TO 7.6
     TOTAL ALKALINITY -- 80 TO 120 part per million (ppm)
     CHLORINE -- 1.0 TO 1.5 ppm
     STABILIZER -- 25 TO 100 ppm
     IRON/COPPER -- < .2 ppm

If you are filling from well water and even if you are on
city water it is a good idea to have it tested also since you
will be topping off the pool throughout the summer.  After
finishing these things it is time to clean the pool and
balance the water.

OFF TO A GOOD START

     Well, you have been to the local pool supply store and
gotten home with everything you need, right?  OK.  Let's
assume that the pool water murky, but you were lucky and no
leaves got into the pool (right).  Also, we will assume
you have started the pool filter equipment and have
successfully circulated the pool water.  (Note:  check the
pH before circulating the water.  If it is below 7.0
adjust the pH first or equipment damage may result)  The pool
water tests show that you need to raise your alkalinity,
increase the pH, shock the pool (with chlorine), and add
stabilizer.  Which do you do first?  Following is the order
of application.  It is very important that you follow this
order or staining of the pool could result.

               1.  A stain and scale preventative
               2.  Total alkalinity (increase or decrease)
               3.  pH (increase or decrease)
               4.  Chlorine
               5.  Algacide
               6.  Stabilizer

Allow at least four hours between applications of chemicals
so that the levels can stabilize.  Too much too fast can
cause inaccurate test readings and problems later on.  A note
about stabilizer: backwash the filter before adding
stabilizer to the water.  When you do add it mix it into a
slurry and poor it through the skimmer.  Allow the filter to
run at least 72 hours continuously before turning off the
filter or backwashing.  The chemical is very slow to dissolve
and may take this long to dissolve into the pool.

     After you have completed step 4 and added the chlorine
you can also begin using you tablets or granular chlorine.
Remember, by taking your time and correctly balancing the
pool your summer will be much more enjoyable.

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

     Once opened your pool will require periodic checks to
make sure the chemical balance of the water is correct, the
filter is clean, and any debris is cleaned from the skimmer,
pump pot and pool bottom.  If you are still new at taking
care of your pool I suggest you test the water at least every
two days until you "get to know" your water.  This is a good
idea even if you are a seasoned pro.  Even better, keep a log
of your pools chemistry so that if a problem develops you
have a reference of what you have done in the past and learn
how to avoid problems in the future.  Vacuum at least twice a
week and brush the pool daily.  Brushing is the most under
rated pool care tip.  Regular brushing will reduce the
chances of your pool having an algae problem, I guaranty it.

     If you are so inclined and have the spare change,
invest in an automatic pool cleaner.  Yes, they are
expensive, but what is your time worth to you.  On the
average it takes an hour to and hour and a half to vacuum
your pool.  Multiply that by two times a week, times four
weeks a month... you get the picture.  There are several on
the market but Polaris, Arneson, and Kreepy Krauly are among
the most popular.

     If you have a lot of trees around the pool (or the
neighbors trees are compelled to shed into your pool) I would
suggest you get a leaf bagger.  Most pool stores sell them
and they are the best for removing heavy leaf debris from the
bottom of the pool.  This is especially true when your winter
cover dumps the entire load of leaves in the pool when you
are pulling it off.  You can usually find them for under $25.

SHOCKING YOUR POOL

     Do you have to?  Yes!  Shocking the pool helps to keep
the water clear and healthy.  It also reduces chemical costs.
What is shocking?  Shocking is a term used of oxidizing the
organic wastes in the water (organic is bacteria, sweat,
soaps, oils, urine, etc...).  These wastes combined with the
chlorine in the water after they have been neutralized to
form chloramines.  The best way to illustrate chloramines
follows.  Have you ever been to a hotel with and indoor pool
and smelled the strong chlorine odor?  Well, that smell is
chloramines.  As odd as it seems, a pool that is shocked
regularly will have very little chlorine odor.  Chloramines
also cause burning eyes and itchy skin.  A properly shocked
pool will eliminate most of these symptoms.

     How do I shock and what should I use?  Two chemicals can
be used to shock.  The most popular is by super chlorinating.
Adding chlorine at a rate equal one gallon of liquid chlorine
or one and one-forth pounds of dry chlorine per 10,000
gallons is usually sufficient to shock the pool.  This is
especially important if the chlorine level is below 1.0 ppm.
The alternative to using chlorine is to use potassium
peroxymonopersulfate or sodium persulfate, commonly known as
Oxybrite or Oxidizer.  These chemicals are non-chlorine
shocking agents.  Added at the rate of one pound per 10,000
gallons of water, these chemicals will shock the pool without
raising the chlorine level of the pool.  However, they will
not act to kill algae in a green pool.  If this is the
problem you must use chlorine.  There are two major
advantages of using oxidizer.  One, it does not harm solar
covers since it does not raise the chlorine level.  Two, you
can swim within fifteen minutes of shocking.  With chlorine
shock you must leave the solar cover off at least twenty-four
hours and usually wait that long to swim.

     IF ANYONE ever recommends that you shock with liquid
acid, leave the store immediately and seek competent pool
water advice.  That person does not know what they are doing
and will ruin you swimming pool and possibly do damage to
someones body.

SOLAR COVERS

     Next to having a pool in Death Valley, a solar cover is
probably one of the best things to have for your pool.  Not
only do they raise the water temperature ten to fifteen
degrees, they also reduce evaporation (important in drought
areas), and help reduce chemical costs by keeping debris out.
If you don't have one I would strongly suggest you look into
it.  There are also solar cover reels to keep them rolled up
and out of the way when the pool is in use.
     If you have a solar cover follow these steps to increase
the life of your cover.

     1.  Always cover the solar blanket when not in use and
         if possible store it in the shade.  Keep it out of
         sun until you put it back on the pool.

     2.  NEVER allow anyone to walk on top of or swim beneath
         you solar cover.  They will drown.

     3.  Keep the blanket clean.  Use a vinyl cleaner to
         remove the build up of oils and dirt.

     4.  Use oxidizer for regular shocking.  If you shock
         with chlorine leave the solar cover off at least
         24 hours.

Storing the solar cover in the sun or leaving it on after
shocking with chlorine will void the warranty on solar
covers.  Most should last three years and some will last as
long as five years.  When should you get rid of it?  When the
bubbles start to come off it is time to get a new one.

CHEMICAL HANDLING AND STORAGE

     The chemicals you use to sanitize and keep you pool
water in balance are not dangerous when handled and stored
properly.  Always use caution and common sense when handling
pool chemicals.  Read all labels carefully and follow
directions as printed.  In case of a fire in your storage
area, call the fire department IMMEDIATELY.  Do not try to
fight the fire yourself.  Fumes and gases given off by the
chemicals can cause serious injury or death.  Alert them to
the fact that you have pool chemicals in the fire area.
Evacuate everyone around the fire scene to a safe place at
least 100 yards away and up-wind of the fire.

     Chlorine tablets, granular chlorine, and oxidizer can be
hazardous if contaminated with small amounts of water or any
organic substance (wood, oil, acids, dirt, etc...).  Chlorine
is an oxidizing agent and will support combustion.  If you
tip a bucket over and spill some do not return the spilled
portion to the bucket.  It is contaminated and should be
disposed of.  The best place to dispose of small amounts is
into the pool.  Be sure to use a broom and dust pan to clean
up the spill and mop the area of the spill with generous
amounts of water.  Rinse the broom and dustpan before
returning to their storage area.  You may use the portion
remaining in the bucket provided it is not contaminated.

     NEVER mix chemical together before adding them to the
pool water.  They will react and give off toxic fumes.
Always add chemicals to water and never water to chemicals.
This will prevent any adverse reactions from occurring.

     ALWAYS store acids and chlorines in different areas.  In
the event of a spill, acids should be neutralized with soda
ash.  Use generous amounts.  Once the acid has been
neutralized flood the area with water.

     KEEP the poison control number by the phone.  Keep all
chemicals out of childrens reach.  NEVER inhale the fumes
from any chemicals as this could cause severe damage to the
lungs and may cause death.

     I am a store manager for Leslie's Pool Supplies.  We are
a nationwide retailer of swimming pool supplies.  This is
not a sales pitch.  If you have any questions concerning your
pool or the location of a store near you call toll free
1-800-LESLIES the phones will be answered until 6:00 pm
Pacific Standard Time seven days a week.  Or stop by your
local swimming pool retailer.  Good Luck and have a fantastic
summer.