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- 1992 WINTER OLYMPICS, Page 50Let the Magic Begin
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- Grandiose and a little garish, the Winter Olympics delight the
- tourism boosters and scare the region's ecologists
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- By MARGOT HORNBLOWER
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- Snoozing at the mouth of a narrow valley, its air
- perfumed by nearby steel plants, its riverbank paved for a
- parking lot, its squat office buildings ringed by mounds of
- sooty snow, Albertville hardly seems destined for global fame.
- But raise your eyes above the small-town skyline: the Olympian
- glory of the French Alps explodes in a pastel sunset, sparkling
- through pine-serrated glaciers. After Sarajevo's Bosnian
- backwater and Calgary's urban stampede, the 16th Olympic Winter
- Games will be a soaring high-wire act: 57 events staged in 10
- venues across seven valleys and 620 sq. mi. of the Savoie
- region's magnificent mountain peaks. Following Albertville's
- opening ceremony this Saturday, the Olympics will take off into
- the wild white yonder of Val d'Isere, Courchevel and other
- mountaintop resorts. "I would like people to go home feeling
- that they spent a fortnight on another planet," says Jean-Claude
- Killy, ski-racing legend and co-president of the Games.
-
- But what promises to be a dazzling, otherworldly spectacle
- could also become a logistical horror show. Over the Christmas
- holidays, 7,000 people were stranded in cars and trains when
- avalanches blocked valley roads. A similar disaster struck last
- February, cutting off several resorts from the outside world for
- two days. Olympic organizers say they are prepared. "The first
- flake won't even have time to hit the asphalt," says Killy. "It
- will land on a snowplow." But a few minor accidents on the
- two-lane mountain roads that lead up to the ski runs, bobsled
- course and hockey rink could create gridlock in transporting the
- 2,300 athletes, 6,000 journalists and 800,000 spectators who are
- to start arriving this week. "If coordination doesn't improve,
- the Games will be a sizzling failure," warned Andre Baudin,
- mayor of Tignes.
-
- No matter the inconvenience for sports fans during the two
- weeks that the televised world focuses on Albertville, the
- locals will still be chortling all the way to the bank. "The
- Games were conceived as a way to bring public investment to the
- region," says Michel Barnier, president of the Savoie General
- Council and co-president of the Games with Killy. And so they
- did. In the past five years the French state spent $1.1 billion
- on new roads and high-speed trains into the region and millions
- more on four sewer plants, three hospitals, 1,240 miles of
- optic fibers and spotlighting for 20 churches and castles.
- Albertville, with its 18,200 inhabitants, boasts a grandiose new
- theater and arcaded plaza (christened Place de l'Europe) and
- fresh-laid cobblestones, plus a 23-ft.-high slab of granite
- posing as avant-garde sculpture. "We're no longer a sad little
- city!" rejoices the municipal magazine.
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- Such munificence -- on top of $180 million worth of
- Olympic skating rinks, ski jumps and other sports facilities --
- came in the nick of time. For France's alpine resorts, like
- debutantes after a champagne spree, were suffering from a
- mountain-size hangover in the wake of two decades of dizzying
- development. Once a region of cowherds and cheesemakers, the
- Savoie harnessed its rivers after World War II to provide
- electricity for chemical and metallurgical plants. But with the
- decline of its heavy industry, Savoyards turned to what they
- suddenly realized could be l'or blanc -- white gold -- the snow
- that permitted the region to become the most intensely built-up
- skiing domain in the world. In the past 30 years the Savoie
- mountains have been scored by 900 ski lifts. Clusters of
- high-rise apartment buildings -- able to house 250,000 tourists
- in all -- rose helter-skelter on virgin slopes. By the
- mid-1980s, though, the boom was over.
-
- "We disfigured our mountains with concrete cities -- it
- was catastrophic," says former ski champion Jean Blanc, now a
- store owner at the Courchevel resort. Avalanches and mud slides
- multiplied, the results of building on unstable slopes.
- Moreover, the valley became renowned for its traffic jams, and
- several snowless seasons accelerated a steep decline in
- visitors. Will the Olympics cure the crisis? "The Games saved
- us from asphyxiation. The new roads are lifelines," says Andre
- Martzolf, La Plagne's ski director. And planners are more
- ecologically conscious now, replanting trees that were uprooted
- to build ski runs and even adjusting one course to avoid a bed
- of rare wildflowers. Environmentalists, however, fear that the
- new highway and rapid trains will spur even more growth in the
- fragile alpine ecosystem, despite a five-year moratorium on new
- resorts announced by the state last April.
-
- Meanwhile, Olympian extravagance has nearly bankrupted
- four communities. One of them, Brides-les-Bains (pop. 600),
- went $13 million into debt to build a new town hall and cable
- car and to renovate its casino and thermal baths. But overall,
- the Games should just about break even.
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- In the old mining town of La Roche, Charline Robin gazes
- uneasily from her balcony at the vertiginous bobsled course
- carved out of her backyard forest. When the mine closed in 1975,
- the village emptied out. But thanks to the white gold of nearby
- La Plagne, Robin, 30, got a job waiting tables, and her eight
- brothers found work as ski-lift operators. "The Olympics bring
- us jobs," she shrugs. But it worried her when authorities
- distributed gas masks to protect against possible leaks of the
- ammonia gas that refrigerates the sled track. And she fears her
- taxes will go up as a result of a 60% cost overrun on the $41
- million course. Although Robin dreams of opening a cafe to serve
- sledders after the Olympics, on the whole she could have done
- without the Games. "They destroyed the forest where our children
- played," she says. "It is not worth it."
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- Despite such doubts, Olympic boosters are in high gear.
- Albertville has printed glossy tourist brochures in four
- languages. Ski resorts are blanketed with garish billboards
- promoting Coca-Cola's Olympic sponsorship. Farmers' co-ops have
- stocked up on pine-tree honey in anticipation of record sales.
- Luxury hotels are booked solid with wealthy businessmen on
- promotional junkets. And in Albertville's Hall of Ice ("Don't
- call it a skating rink!"), volunteer tour guide Andre Cabot
- explains, "There's a grandeur to the Olympics. When it's all
- over, we'll say, `How did we do it?' " A little Savoie-faire was
- all it took.
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