NeedleCraft Plus/needlecraftplusvolume1.iso/quilt/q-appliq/q-appliq.faq

Text File | 1997-01-06 | 20KB | 380 lines

---Applique FAQ---

        What follows is some of the collected wisdom of QuiltNet, circa
 1/94, with some updates from 4/94.  The major part of this FAQ is tips on
appliquing circles and  smooth curves.  The latter part is a few tips
on dealing with sharp points and corners.  I asked a question
involving Dresden plate blocks, so you will see references to this
 design.

Original Post:
>       Does anyone have any good tips on getting that perfect applique
>circle?  I'll settle for pretty good, even.  I plan to cut away the
>foundation fabric in the middle so I could use a technique involving
>freezer paper.  Or, should I leave the foundation fabric in place for
>stability?  Any tips on applique blocks in general?  This is my first
>one.
>      Thank goodness I only have four for a wallhanging - no king-sized
>quilts here :-)
>Andrea

Andrea,
  I just finished some math exchange blocks that had five appliqued
circles on each of them.  I had good luck following these steps.
  1)  Cut out a cardboard circle the size of the desired finished circle.
  2)  Put the circle to be appliqued face down on your ironing board.
  3)  Put the cardboard circle in the middle of the cloth and iron
around the edge of the cloth, forcing it to bend over the cardboard.  Do
this carefully if you are using steam.  I burned my fingers a few times
and steam burns really hurt!  It might be better to see if you can get a
good crease without steam.
  4)  Take the cardboard circle out of the center of the cloth.
  5)  Baste the seam allowance down, trying to keep the curves smooth.
This is the most important step.
  6)  Applique your circle in place.
  7)  Remove the basting stitches.

   Good luck.
Betsy Perry

Just this weekend I began reading a fantastic book (very small book,
large print) called "Invisible Applique" by Ami Simms.  The book is
great and her technique is great.  She gives you exercises to learn
the process (quick and easy exercises).  You begin by appliqueing a
2 inch square, then a bib shaped object to practice a convex curve
(that's how far I got in one evening).  Next I will be appliqueing a heart
and then several sizes of circles.  I strongly recommend this book to
learn a great method of applique.  When you have completed the
exercises she saves you should be able to applique anything.  Good
luck.

<>  Donna Wilkinson             <>

I have had the same problem with applique...but I found an article in a
magazine (can't tell you which one now, it's been a couple years), but
they offered a new technique and I think it worked great.  A friend
told me she thought it was a lot of extra work, but it made my Dresden
rounded edges, round... you piece your plate, then place it face down
on a very, very, very lightweight fabric, I used a gauze type, almost cheese
cloth like muslin... anyway you place right sides together, sew a 1/4 in
seam around all the spokes, by machine or my hand.. I did mine by hand
because I thought they would be truer, and you turn the whole thing
inside out and press the plate... You have to wet the edges of the plate
where you are pressing (according to the directions) and kind of roll
the edge as you press to get it perfect,.... but it does come out perfect.
You can either applique the "perfect plate" as is on a foundation or you
can cut away some of the "cheesecloth".  I didn't cut mine away because it
is so... fine that it made no extra bulk when quilting... Lots of luck
with your Dresden..
Karen Z

I've recently had some very good results with starch and my
applique - (we won't discuss subsequent stitching.....) I have
some strange shapes that need to stay in the form drawn (for
our Star Trek block exchange) and after cutting out the fabric
with some allowance around a card board (cereal box) template,
I use an old paintbrush to put liquid starch around the edge of
the template, I just iron the seam allowance over the template
then peel the fabric off the template, pin it to the fabric
then stitch away.  I've tried several other methods to include
the freezer paper, but this method has given me the "cleanest"
easiest lines.  I've thought about using the interfacing trick,
but since I hadn quilt I'm hesitant to add any other layers to
quilt through.
Give it a try.  I like it.
Mary Beth Bellah
[e-mail]

I read a posting on rec.crafts.quilting (or whatever it's called) that
detailed a way to get PERFECT seams for applique.  You sew interfacing
to the front side of the shape to be appliqued, cut a slit in the
interfacing, and turn the whole thing inside out.  Then if you are
concerned about the extra bulk from the interfacing, you can cut it
away near the seam line.  Use non-fusible, lightweight interfacing.

Jean

Andrea, one way to get good round edges on appliqued circles is to have
a CARDBOARD template of the finished size circle, and use it to press under
the seam allowances of the fabric pieces which have been sprayed with
spray starch.  Some folks like to gather the edges of the circle in the
seam allowance and pull on the gathering thread to turn the edges under
on this cardboard template.  Press, let dry and remove the cardboard and
you'll have crisp edges which  hold while you applique them down.  Good
luck.  Ann in Richmond.

Circles are about the easiest curved shape to finish perfectly.

Cut a circle out of tagboard, an old kleenex box, manila folder,
or anything else of a similar weight.  Make that circle the
size of your finished fabric circle.  Then cut out your fabric
circles with roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Run a basting stitch close to the edge of your fabric circle, lay
your cardboard circle in the center (wrong side) then draw your
basting thread up so you gather your fabric right on the cardboard.

Then press the seam allowance with the cardboard in place.  Use a
little starch to make a nice sharp edge, and press both sides of
the circle.  You can then pull out the basting thread and lift
out the cardboard and your circle will keep its shape nicely.

Good luck! Your wall hanging sounds pretty!

Kathryn
[e-mail]

Andrea - try using a light cardboard circle, like from a
3x5 card.  baste around the outside of your circle of
fabric in the seamline, center it on the cardboard, which
you cut to the FINISHED size you want.  Draw or gather up
the basting stitches to pull in the seam allowance, tie
it off and press.  Applique in place with the cardboard
still inside.  Then, when you clip out from the back,
you can bend and remove the cardboard.  See also a book
called "10 Easy Ways to Applique" - it is in the fabric
shops lately and has lots of good ideas--Ruth Allen

Hi, Andrea.  When I made a few Dresden plate blocks, I used a template
for cutting the 'petals' that was fairly stiff but thin tagboard.
When it was time to applique the whole thing onto a background,
I ironed the curves in first.  Turn the plate on its face on your
ironing board.  Cut the seam allowance (carefully) as you would for
any curved seam or applique.  Slip the template into position and
hold it down while approaching the curved seam from the outside with
the iron.  Just keep nudging the point of the iron up over the seam
from one sideseam to the other until that curve is nicely smoothed
and flattened into something that can be easily appliqued.

Some people would say forget the cutting and run a gathering stitch
between the edge of the petal and the seam line.  Slip the template in
and pull the seam into even spaced gathers, then iron flat.  This
should work as well but I haven't tried it.

Carol Castaldi ([e-mail] in Seattle)

> Run a basting stitch close to the edge of your fabric circle, lay
> your cardboard circle in the center (wrong side) then draw your
> basting thread up so you gather your fabric right on the cardboard.

I have used this method many times and it works great - but I did
learn to make as small basting stitches as possible and still be able
to draw up the thread.  The idea is to make very small "pleats"
inside the circle and then the edge will curve in nice and smooth.
When working with larger curves such as a heart or Dresden plate
block, the trick is to make small seem allowances - about 1/8 or
3/16 of an inch.  The  smaller the seam allowance on the curve, the
smoother the curve. But don't get too small that you don't have
anything grab with the needle to tack down the applique.
I also use a dampened toothpick to assist in turning under the seam
allowances.  In fact I couldn't do curves without one.  I use the
toothpick to tuck under the seam allowance *and* to move the extra
fabric on the curve back under where I already stitched and this
creates a smooth curve.
Judy

Judy Danz

Since your circles are probably a few inches across,
the gathering technique should work out well. Just cut
a cardboard circle the size you want your fabric circle
to be. Then run a gathering stitch in the seam allowance
of your fabric circle. Place the fabric circle over the
piece of cardboard and pull up the gathering thread. When
you get it gathered over the cardboard, press it with
your iron. Then pull out the cardboard. You can leave the
gathering thread in the fabric circle when you applique it
down. If you don't plan to quilt inside the circle, you
don't have to cut away the base fabric behind it after it
is appliqued (unless it is darker and shows through).

The best way to get smooth curves on applique circles is with a freezer
paper method.  Trace your circle directly onto the freezer paper, or better
yet, use a compass (remember those from math class? ;) to draw your circles.
These should be the finished diameter.  Carefully cut out the circles from
the freezer paper, making sure the edges are smooth.  Now iron the circles
onto your fabric (waxy side down).  Eye-ball a 1/4" seam allowance or use
one of those 1/4" seam wheels.  Cut out the fabric on the seam allowance
line.  Fold the seam allowance over the freezer paper, making sure the edge
is smooth, and baste to the paper.  Now pin the fabric/freezer paper circle
on your foundation and pin in place with sequin pins (1/2" long pins).

For your stitch, the one I use that looks great (even for a beginner) is as
follows:

1.  Come up from your foundation fabric and take a small (needle width size)
bite out of the edge of your applique fabric.
2.  Go down through the same hole you came up, and come up about 1/16-1/8"
away taking another bite out of the edge of your applique fabric.
3.  When you have about 3/4-1" left to applique, take out your basting thread
and, using tweezers to help, loosen and pull out your freezer paper.  Then
continue sewing your applique.  OR leave the freezer paper in and cut a small
slit on the back to pull your freezer paper through.  You can also cut away
the foundation to a 1/4" seam allowance for ease of quilting in the applique
area.

You could use this same method for turning under the scalloped edge.  Use
your pattern template to cut your freezer paper out, and iron it inside the
seam allowance, baste, and pin.  Continue as above.

Have fun!  Hope it works out.  I have been very satisfied with this methods
for smooth curves and sharp points.

Janet Ulrich
[e-mail]

     Just read my mail and saw you plea on how to applique circles.
What I usually do is cut out a piece of cardboard the exact size of
your circle.  Then using this cardboard circle as your pattern draw
this shape onto the wrong side of your fabric.  Cut out leaving 1/4"
seam allowance.  Now, sew around your drawn line using a small basting
stitch, put your cardboard circle in the center and draw it up tight.
Press with a steam iron and then ease the cardboard circle out and tie
off your threat.  This leaves a perfect circle to applique.  Hope this
is clear.  If not, mail me.  Good luck!

[e-mail]

Please don't tell anyone I told you such a lazy, cowardly thing to do as this.
There are all kinds of factors that make this suggestion not a great idea but
it sure works in some circumstances. Take the lightest weight fusible
interfacing you can find, sew (I said SEW  not not not fuse) it to your Dresden
plate with the right side of the plate and the fusible side of the interfacing
together. Clip the intersections between the crescents so that when you turn
this right side out they will cooperate.  Now, cut a small slit in the
interfacing and turn the whole mess right side out. Smooth the edges. Remember,
you can't just iron this guy flat. You now have an iron-on in the shape of a
Dresden plate. You can fuse it to your background and either machine or hand
stitch around the edge to look like you struggled and slaved to applique it
just right.
This works nicely if you're not going to quilt heavily (by hand) through the
interfacing. It has the advantage over "Wonder-Under" or something like that
because it doesn't affect the fabric your block was made of. Please, please,
please try this out on something else before you do it with your blocks. It
works on sweatshirts.
I probably wouldn't suggest it for a quilt because the interfacing would add
some bulk but for a wall-hanging - no one is ever gonna feel it.
If you try this and if you think of it, let me know if it worked out for you.

I use iron-on thin
interfacing (the stuff that dissolves would be better). It is
absolutely terrific for shapes which include circles and curves as
you get a perfect line with no points or pleats. Even points are ok
provided the piece isn't too small. I have tried it for applique on a
miniature quilt, but the pieces were too small, and I had to use a
different method. Maybe I just needed practice (or patience) with the
fiddly bits.
I found that with the iron-on method (where you iron the piece onto
your background after sewing and turning, then slip stitch), it is a
good idea to applique from left to right with the piece below your
needle, and to make an effort not to catch the interfacing in your
stitch. So you can curl the edge of the piece over the interfacing
with your stitch, and stop it from showing.  Then, when you have put
the whole thing together and just before you sandwich the layers, you
carefully cut away the background and the interfacing underneath your
appliqued pieces, and this reduces the bulk and helps the pieces sit
better.
Penny Verrall

Occasionally when you use the fusible interfacings, you end up with bubbles
after the fabric is laundered- I use it mostly in clothing construction,
not quilting.  I've found that this occurs when I haven't tested the fusing
temperature- I think it's because I didn't use enough force and heat to
really bond the pieces.  Sometimes, you can get rid of the bubbles by using
a lot of force and the hottest iron that the piece can handle.  I find that
they reappear every time it's laundered.
It's a good idea to test fuse a sample at various temps and durations.
Fuse, then try to peel the corner of the interfacing away- if it peels as a
unit, then you need more time and/or temp.  It also helps to really push
down on the iron to apply a lot of force.  I usually lower my ironing board
a couple of clicks so that I have better leverage.

If you are having this problem before you make your quilt sandwich, you can
try to cut away the backing fabric and tear the interfacing out from behind
the shape.  You need to be sure that you have stitched the applique down
firmly before trying this.  After a piece is quilted, I don't know what you
could try.
[e-mail]

I have never tried the water soluable interfacing, but I have used the dryer
sheets as a backing. I had seen this suggestion on the net before so I
decided to give it a try.  I have
only 1 suggestion, make sure that you used dryer sheets are free of all
fabric softener.  I have approximately 50 hearts with spots (they look like
oil) all over them.

I have used glue stick to
get things to stay put while appliqueing and it washes away just
fine.  There is also a product that is like very narrow double sided
tape that I have used and it also washes away without any residue.


I just got a great new book called The Sampler Quilt by Diana Leone. It is
published by Leone Publications. It had really good step by step instructions
on
how to do applique and how to applique curves without points. The instructions
were very clear and the photos were large and there are lots of them. She shows
a couple of different ways to applique. One is called needleturn and the other
involves basting around the edge and then appliquing. Another still shows how
to
cut away the fabric underneath. Good luck.
Luanne

                   Applique Points
                    ---------------

1. Several people suggested folding the triangle tip at the point,
and then folding first one side and then the other at the sewing line
for applique.  I must admit I have seen this technique suggested
before and STILL end up with a bulky lump at the tip of the point.
Maybe I am not trimming my seam allowances small enough.

2. "Sew up to where the point is, and take 2 stitches in the same spot.
With the point of your scissors, fingernail, or needle, sweep all the
fabric down and push it against the seam you have just sewn, then
sew down that side."

3. Using fabric cut into a star point . . . "right sides were folded
together and then sewn with a 1/8" seam.  The star tip was trimmed
and then turned right side.  The point was made 'pointy' with one of
those bamboo point turners used for making collar points.  The star
needs to be pressed in place -- the seam goes down the middle of the
back of the star point."
        This last is the one I am eager to try -- it sounds like it
would work best on large pattern pieces (Sue Coatney, who sent this,
says she did it in a Mariner's Compass class).

4.  By trial and error I found that reducing the seam  allowance up
to the point works better than shortening the point.  You still have to
be careful to not fray the  end, but it did not fray as easily and the
bulk was significantly reduced.

 I may be doing this the hard way but..... I trimmed the seam
allowance to bare  minimum for about 1/4'" to 1/2" on each side of
the point.  On my Christmas trees I found I was able to applique
one side of the point using the normal 3/16th seam allowance and
then trimmed  down the seam allowance I has just appliquedwith a
pair of small embroidery scissors.  Then I only had to deal with
appliqueing with a small seamallowance on one side of the point. I
also found that folding the point seam allowance directly back
onpoint helped. After I applique up one side of the point, I lift the
point material up and folded the point allowance directly back under
the point.

                    /\
               - - - - - -   <---- cut here - higher cut than on
                   /  \            Amy's drawing
                   /  \
                  / /\ \
                 / /  \ \     <=== Narrowing seam allowance
                / /    \ \

               / /      \ \
             /  /        \  \
           /   /          \   \
             /\
             ||
             ||
          seam allowance