NeedleCraft Plus/needlecraftplusvolume1.iso/misc/txtl-bk2/txtl-bk2.txt

Text File | 1997-01-06 | 34KB | 678 lines

>Books on Fitting:
>   IF: Introduction to fitting
>   VF: Vogue Fitting. Sandra Lenker.
>   FF: Fabulous Fit. Patricia Perry (editor)
>   MYCF: Making Your Clothes Fit. Patricia Burkhart Smith.
>
>Books on Pattern Drafting:
>   IPD: Brief intro to subject of pattern drafting
>   PFD: Patternmaking for Fashion Design. Helen Joseph Armstrong.
>   EK: Ernestine Kopp's series of books. Ernestine Kopp, et. al.
>   PPfD: Professional Patternmaking for Designers. Jack Handford.
>   DD: Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making.
>       Marion Hillhouse & Evelyn Mansfield
>   MPD: Modern Pattern Design. Harriet Pepin.
>   AFD: Art of Fashion Draping. Connie Amaden-Crawford.
>   DfFD: Draping for Fashion Design. Hilde Jaffe & Nurie Relis
>   PD: Precision Draping. Nelle Weymouth Link.
>   PoFPD: Principles of Flat Pattern Design. Nora MacDonald & Ann Weibel.
>   HtMSP:  How to Make Sewing Patterns. Donald. H. McCunn.
>   FoMFD: Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design. Nasaaki Kawashima.
>   MPCfM: Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear. Winifred Aldrich.
>   TS:  Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way. Clarence Paulin.
>   S: Sleeves. Louise Todd Cape.
>   FDPS: Fashion Design for the Plus-Size. Frances Leto Zangrillo.
>   GTfMD: Grading Techniques for Modern Design.
>       Jeanne Price & Bernard Zamkoff
>   MNPD: Miscellaneous notes on Pattern Drafting

>Miscellaneous: (todo)
>   DD: Decorative Dressmaking. Sue Thompson
>   MYOJC: Make Your Own Japanese Clothes. John Marshall.
>   FYF: Flatter Your Figure. Jan Larkey.
>   GE: Great Expectations (maternity)
>   ARtW: Altering Women's/Men's Ready to Wear

>FAQ: Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ?

>
>Books on Fitting:

>IF: Introduction to fitting

>Many standard sewing references include some sections on altering patterns for
>fitting.  In particular, you may want to check out:
>   RDCGtS: Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
>   VSB: The Vogue Sewing Book
>   SSSbS: Singer's Sewing Step by Step
>   VBSbSGtST: The Vogue/Butterick Step By Step Guide To Sewing Techniques
>   SB: Sandra Betzina's books
>   NZ: Nancy Zieman's books and videos
>   T: New books from Taunton Press


>Alterations come in two sorts:

>-small alterations that are generally made along seam lines or dart lines and
>can be made during the fitting stage.  Ideally, if you can buy the right size
>pattern you should only need this sort of alteration.  It helps if you have a
>multi size pattern and can put several patterns sizes together (i.e. bodice
>size XX, skirt size YY).

>-large alterations that involve redrafting parts of the pattern (typically
>slashing and spreading or overlapping).

>_The Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing_, _Vogue Book of Sewing_ and
>_Vogue Book of Fitting and Alteration_ discuss both methods.  Both have
>slightly more emphasis on the first method; which is appropriate.  Good books
>on pattern drafting discuss many of the techniques used in the second form of
>alterations.  An understanding of drafting techniques will help during major
>pattern alterations.


>SRL,PF: _Singer Reference Library: The Perfect Fit_:

>A good introduction to fitting with beautiful photos, but not quite as
>complete as several of the other books available.  Still it covers most of the
>common alterations neccessary. The introductory chapters discuss garment ease,
>figure analysis and taking measurements. The section on adjustments shows pin
>fitting a tissue pattern (can you *really* do this?  without a helper?) and
>fitting as you sew.  Then there is a large fitting section that shows
>photographs of common fitting problems and minor and major adjustments for
>correcting them. _The Perfect Fit_ is the only fitting books I have seen that
>uses color photos instead of drawings and this can be extremely useful.  _The
>Perfect Fit_ is also very well organized; if you read through it once it can
>be used regularly as a reference book.

>Additional comments from Marie-Christine Mahe [[e-mail]]
>What really makes the Singer book unique is the use of photos.  Each problem
>is presented in mild and severe form, so you can tell easily what the pattern
>companies consider as a real objective problem.  There are so many people
>running around with distorted body images that it's very useful to be able to
>look at 2 pictures and see that you only have a mild case of square shoulders
>or big thighs or whatever, or a really serious case of skinny arms.  Moreover,
>the adjustments also come in 2 versions: the easy one for the mild cases, and
>the slash-and-rip ones everyone else recommend, but only for the extreme
>cases.  I haven't seen any other book that makes such a clear distinction
>between the possible adjustments and why you'd want to use one or the other.
>Of course, you can also slide and pivot, but that really falls into the more
>extreme category too.  Most people really only need small adjustments, if any,
>and these are rarely explained so well.

>Additional comments [[e-mail] (Deborah Trytten)]:
>Go to the store and buy the Singer Reference Library Fitting Book.  It's a
>gem.  I found out things about my figure that I never knew before.  I had
>always thought that my fitting problems came about because I am large busted.
>Come to find out, that's only half of the problem.  The other half was that I
>have narrow shoulders.  They have hundreds of pictures of fitting problems and
>the cause.  I was paging through it when I saw this weird front armhole gap
>that shows up on all my clothing.  Then I started measuring, and found out
>that my shoulders are very narrow--and I had never suspected it.  Give it a
>try.  It's as painless as fitting can be.


>VF: Vogue Fitting

>_Vogue Fitting_: If you just want to look at one book, this is probably the
>best one.  It only covers fitting and is fairly complete in it's treatment of
>alteration techniques.  It should be available in many stores for about $15
>(paperback).  You'll certainly have no problem ordering it.

>Vogue fitting : the book of fitting techniques, adjustments, and alterations /
>  [writer, Sandra Lenker ; illustrator, Phoebe Gaughan ; editor, Helen Moore].
>  -- New York : Harper & Row, 1987, c1984.  192 p.



>FF: Fabulous Fit

>_Fabulous Fit_. Butterick Publishing Company.  This book was printed in about
>1977 and is now out of print.  I like this book slightly better than _Vogue
>Fitting_, but both are good books.  I believe Butterrick and Vogue are owned
>by the same parent company, so this book has also been called _The Vogue
>Sewing Book of Fitting, Adjustments and Alterations_.

>The Vogue sewing book of fitting, adjustments, and alterations.
>  [The Vogue sewing book of fittings, adjustments, and alterations]
>  Fabulous fit / [editor, Patricia Perry]. -- New York : Butterick Fashion
>Marketing Co., c1977.
>  190 p., [6] leaves of plates : ill. ; 26 cm.
>  "Also published in hardcover as The Vogue sewing book of fittings,
>adjustments, and alterations ... (third edition, 1977)."
>  Includes index.


>MYCF: Making Your Clothes Fit

>_Making Your Clothes Fit_ by Patricia Burkhart Smith. This book was also
>published in the 1970's and is out of print.  I like this book alot.  It
>consists of a page of pictures that show common fitting problems with pictures
>on the opposite page that shows the appropriate adjustment.  This book
>concentrates on the smaller adjustments; I am not sure whether or not it shows
>the large adjustments.




>
>Books on Pattern Drafting:


>IPD: Brief intro to subject of pattern drafting

>Basically there are three methods that designers use.  Most designers use a
>combination of several of the methods.

>Initial patterns are drafted from a series of instructions based on the
>measurements of an individual body.  These patterns which are often called
>basic slopers.  Typically this system is used to design slopers for basic
>pants, a basic bodice and a basic dress and the slopers are then modified with
>flat pattern methods to create new designs.  All basic slopers fit the body
>snugly with minimum ease.  Many pattern books from the 1800's discuss drafting
>complex dresses and suits using body measurements, but today this method is
>used mainly for slopers.

>Flat pattern methods take basic sloper patterns and alter them into more
>sophisticated patterns.  This is probably the most widely used method.  The
>basic principles are slashing and spreading.  Some pattern makers use pivoting
>in addition to or instead of the spreading step.  The books on flat pattern
>drafting show you how to cut lines on the original pattern and manipulate the
>pattern pieces to get a completely different pattern.  One basic principle is
>how to move or eliminate darts in order to change the drape of the pattern and
>the design ease.  Pivoting is particularly useful for moving darts from one
>part of a pattern to another.

>Some of the steps in flat pattern drafting can be similar to the modifications
>you might have to make when drastically adjusting the size of a pattern (e.g.
>changing it 4-8 sizes).  For this sort of major modification you cannot adjust
>at the seam lines, you must slash and spread the pattern to re-proportion all
>parts of it.  The new Sewing Basics section of Threads magazine has shown a
>number of slash and spread modifictions that you may need to solve some common
>fitting problems.

>The third method is draping.  In draping a piece of muslin is pinned directly
>to a dress dummy (or even a 1/2 or 1/4 scale dress dummy!).  Draping gives you
>immediate feedback about the way the cloth hangs.  Many people drape with
>muslin for initial experiments and use the cloth they intend to use for a
>advanced draping to get a better feel for the drape of the final fabric.

>Many of these books discuss flat pattern methods.  A few books such as {PFD:}
>and {DD:} combine draping and flat pattern design. The Hillhouse and Mansfield
>book discusses the appropriate uses for both draping and flat pattern design.
>The Armstrong book discusses both but concentrates on flat pattern design.

>Pattern drafting books are not available in most bookstores.  Universities
>with large programs in fashion design will carry some of these books, possibly
>as textbooks.  Many of these books are fairly expensive.  It can be very
>useful to preview the books by reading through them at a good University
>library or borrowing them from an InterLibrary Loan program before you
>purchase them.  Several mail order places carry a range of books on drafting;
>check Hard to Find Needlework Books for old and new books and Unicorn Books
>for new books.  (See the sewing FAQ for more information on these places.)

>These reviews are based on the subjects that the books cover and the clarity
>of the illustrations and writing. In short, these reviews are from a
>well-read, but inexperienced, hobbyist in the pattern drafting field.


>PFD: Patternmaking for Fashion Design

>- Patternmaking for Fashion Design. Helen Joseph Armstrong. c. 1986. New York.
>Harper & Row. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67) (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37 gives c. as
>1987.)  (has been highly recommended in Threads several times) (has been
>highly recommended as a single all-in-one book for flat pattern + draping in
>Jan/Feb 1991 Threads).  I agree that this is probably the best all-in-one book
>that I have seen that is currently in print.  It's somewhat expensive ($45+),
>but it is about 700 pages and covers a very wide range of subjects and
>alterations.  If you want one book, I think this is the book to get.


>EK: Ernestine Kopp's series of books

>- How to Draft Basic Patterns, 3rd edition. Ernestine Kopp et.al. c. 1984. New
>York. Fairchild. (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37) Describes making the basic slopers
>needed for _DAttFP_ and _NFAfDAttFP_ from either standard measurements
>(provided thru size 18) or from individual measurements.  Basic slopers for
>sleeve (fitted and straight), skirt, pants, bodice, maybe more.

>- Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern, 5th edition.  Ernestine Kopp. c.
>1981. New York. Fairchild. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67) Uses the basic slopers
>and flat pattern methods to create a wide range of patterns.

>- New Fashion Areas for Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern.  Kopp,
>Ernestine, et al.  Sequel to _Designing thru the Flat Pattern_.  Interesting,
>but fairly old (1972).  Includes some interesting sections, incl a chapters on
>capes, hoods, and cowls.

>The three books by Kopp are a good, and fairly complete, intro to all aspects
>of flat pattern design.  Of course, purchasing three books represents a
>considerable investment.  The _Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern_
>book can pretty well stand alone, but you may need the _Basic Patterns_ book
>to get some of the slopers if you are hard to fit, etc.


>PPfD: Professional Patternmaking for Designers

>- Professional Patternmaking for Designers. Jack Handford.  This is a pretty
>good book that is probably still in print. It is a one book intro to drafting
>slopers and flat pattern design.  It's spiral bound and about $25.  You'll
>probably have to special order it.  I can look up the publisher if you can't
>find it in Books In Print.



>DD: Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making
>   [HIST-COST] 1930's & 1940's
>- Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making.  Marion Hillhouse and Evelyn
>Mansfield. c. 1948. Boston. Houghton-Miffin. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67) Clear
>instructions on draping, with excellent drawings of bodice, skirt, sleeve, and
>neckline styles.  Perfect for reproducing styles of the 1940's. (Threads #30).
>This is a GREAT book! Lots of draping examples.  Also lots of exercise for
>flat pattern drafting.

>_Dress Design_ is one of the most comprehensive all-in-one books.  There is a
>large chapter at the front that discusses fitting and making a master shell.
>The rest of the book discusses both draping and flat pattern making
>techniques.  Alot of information on making a good dress dummy, drafting and
>fitting basic slopers, using slopers for more complex design.  It emphasizes
>designs popular in the 1940's.



>MPD: Modern Pattern Design
>   [HIST-COST] 1930's & 1940's

>- Modern Pattern Design.  Harriet Pepin. c. 1942.  Drafting slopers and slash
>and spread modifications.  Has many neat ideas for 1940 style clothing.  Many
>unique cuts, etc.  I found this in a used book store and really like it.  It's
>not quite as good as the Hillhouse and Mansfield book, but it's still a pretty
>good all-in-one reference.


>AFD: Art of Fashion Draping

>This book is a good general introduction to draping.  The book contains many
>clear illustrations and takes you through draping many different styles step
>by step.  Of the draping books that I have read this book appears to be the
>most thorough introduction as well as the book that would be most useful for
>someone trying to learn draping from scratch.  The illustrations show you
>exactly how to place the muslin material and the hand motions to use while
>smoothing it and controlling darts.

>The Art of Fasion Draping. Connie Amaden-Crawford. Fairchild Publications.
>copyright 1989. 307 pages. (available from Unicorn as of 4/92; see sewing FAQ)


>DfFD: Draping for Fashion Design

>This book has good directions for draping many styles of bodices, necklines,
>princess seam variations, bodices with unique yokes, skirts and cowls at the
>neckline, armhole and waist.  The book illustrates a wide variety of styles.
>The book uses only draping methods, it does not include flat pattern
>alterations. Many other books use flat pattern methods for some of the yokes
>and cowls that are draped in this book.

>The illustrations and descriptions in this book are adequate.  The
>illustrations and text often do not include details about how you should
>smooth the fabric over the dress form.  For example, the illustrations in
>{AFD:} and {PD:} typically contain arrows showing the position and direction
>appropriate for using your hand to smooth the fabric in each step.  {DfFD:}
>seldom includes this level of detail.

>Draping for Fashion Design. Hilde Jaffe and Nurie Relis. c. 1973.  Reston
>Publishing Co (a Prentice-Hall Company). (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37) ($27,
>9/89)


>PD: Precision Draping [HIST-COST] 1940's

>This book provides well illustrated instructions for draping many of the
>styles that were popular in the 1940's.  The illustrations show how to lay the
>cloth and how to smooth it on the dress form.  This is a good general
>introduction to draping and particularly useful for anyone that wants to
>recreate the styles of the 1940's.  The book uses some flat pattern methods to
>show alterations for sleeves, yokes and skirts.  The book covers only women's
>clothing and does not include pants.

>Precision Draping. Nelle Weymouth Link. Funk and Wagnalls, copyright 1948.
>Check for this book through Interlibrary Loan.


>PoFPD: Principles of Flat Pattern Design

>- Principles of Flat Pattern Design by Nora M. MacDonald and Ann Weibel.  For
>a Textile Arts class. Spring 1991.  Spiral, $30.  I've looked through this and
>it seems like a good book on flat pattern methods.  Starts with a few chapters
>on pivoting.


>HtMSP:  How to Make Sewing Patterns

>- How to Make Sewing Patterns, rev. ed. Donald. H. McCunn. c1977. Drafting
>patterns from measurements.  Some notes on flat pattern methods.  Has both
>women's and men's basic patterns.  Long out of print, but available through
>inter-library loan. I think this book may have been re-released in the early
>1990's; available from Unicorn books as of Feb 1992.


>FoMFD: Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design

>This is a book about drafting suits from individual measurements.  A wide
>variety of men's suits are illustrated.  Of course, many of the illustrations
>show styles that were popular in the late 1960's and early 1970's.  However
>many of the patterns for formal attire are relatively timeless.  I know of no
>other book that contains such a variety of men's patterns drafted from
>measurements.

>Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design: A Guide to Tailored Clothes.  Masaaki
>Kawashima. Fairchild Publications.  copyright 1974.  ISBN 87005-105-9.
>Available from Unicorn as of 4/92.


>MPCfM: Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear
>   [[e-mail] (Mr M. Grice)]
>_Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear_ by Winifred Aldrich
>(Oxford: BSP Professional, 1990 - 2nd Edition)

>(My copy of this book is actually the first edition, however, the second
>edition is essentially the same with the addition of a chapter on Computer
>Aided Designing (CAD) in pattern drafting.)

>The book covers the basic principles in metric sizing, taking body
>measurements, how to use the basic blocks (slopers), devloping basic blocks
>for casual wear, sleeve variations, trousers, coats, nightwear and the classic
>suit.  A separate chapter covers adapting the men's blocks to women's wear
>(essentially darting the blocks).

>The instructions are extremely detailed, with very accurate (to scale?)
>drawings of what the blocks and adapted patterns should look like.  The
>development of adaptations such as extended shoulder lines, lowered armhole
>(easy fitting) and combinations thereof is very well described.  The chapter
>on collars (shirts and jackets) removes much of the uncertainty that I have
>found in other books on pattern drafting.

>The criticisms I have are that the adaptations described are a little
>conservative, the book is based on the metric system of measurement (which
>personally is not a problem, but may put others off), and the chapter on CAD.
>As a computing professional I found the discussion on CAD for pattern drafting
>to be too high-level, with the focus being on systems found in large
>production environments.

>On the whole, the book gives comprehesive coverage to various aspects of
>pattern drafting of interest to the "home" pattern cutter.


>TS:  Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way

>- Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way. Clarence Paulin. I found this book in
>a used book store.  It's a bit old (60's?), but seems to be reasonably
>complete.  It's mostly for drafting and making men's suits; women's suits are
>a chapter tacked on to the end.  Paulin shows how to draft the pattern based o
n
>measurements and then adjust as needed during the first fit.


>S: Sleeves [HIST-COST] drafting sleeves

>This is a collections of unusual sleeve designs that may be useful for anyone
>doing costuming or historical costuming.  Many of the designs are too unusual
>for daily clothing.  However if you need to design fancy or unusual sleeves
>for clothing from the 1500 - 1900 era you may find this book very useful. You
>may have to search a bit to find this book; check Interlibrary Loan Programs
>and Unicorn books.

>Sleeves: A Treasury of Ideas, Techniques and Patterns.  Louise Todd Cape.
>Copyright 1988.  Coat of Arms Press, Box 1, Penland, North Carolina 28765.


>FDPS: Fashion Design for the Plus Size

>This book is written for a student designer.  It discusses some of the common
>figure types for larger women, some standard design tricks that can be
>flattering.  The largest section discusses introductory drafting and draping
>techniques for making slopers and altering the slopers to make some
>complementary designs.  The last section discusses grading for sizes 14-24.
>This book may be useful if you are doing alot of designing for larger women.
>Most of the topics and techniques are covered more thoroughly in other books,
>however this book concentrates on the problems most common in larger women.
>If you're not sure how useful it will be, check for it in a library before you
>buy it.

>Fashion Design for the Plus Size. Frances Leto Zangrillo. copyright 1990.
>Fairchild Publications.  ISBN 87005-677-8.  Available from Unicorn 4/92.


>GTfMD: Grading Techniques for Modern Design

>_Grading Techniques for Modern Design_ shows pictures of standard pattern
>pieces and shows how they should be slashed and expanded in order to regrade
>them.  I believe they start with the industry standard size 12 (?) and show
>regradings up and down for most women's sizes.  I once used the techniques in
>this book combined with the pictures in the _Reader's Digest_ book to alter a
>dress pattern from size 12 to about size 18.  I slashed the pattern in the
>places indicated by the book and used their charts as a guideline for
>spreading the pattern.

>Price, Jeanne. Grading techniques for modern design / by Jeanne Price and
>Bernard Zamkoff.  New York : Fairchild Publications, c1974. ix, 132 p. : ill.

>See Also: article on pattern grading in Threads, issue #29, June/July 1990.
>Good intro.

>See Also: _Grading for the Fashion Industry, the Theory and Practice_ by
>Patrick Taylor and Martin Shoben.  London: Hutchinson and Co, LTD. 1984. (from
>a reference in Threads issue #29).  A complex and comprehensive text, from an
>apparel manufacturers viewpoint.  Includes a survey of 34 body measurements
>(in metric) as well as two and three dimentional grading for missy bodices,
>skirts, sleeves and pants.


>MNPD: Miscellaneous notes on Pattern Drafting

>I have seen recommendations for the following books, but have never read them.
>The recommendations came from a "Best of Out of Print Dressmaking Books"
>article in Threads and references from other articles.

>Flat Pattern Design. Allyn Bane. c. 1972. (out of print). New York.
>McGraw-Hill. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67)

>Dress Pattern Designing: The Basic Principles of Cut and Fit, 5th edition. c.
>1986. Natalie Bray. London. Collins. (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37)

>More Dress Pattern Designing, 4th edition. Natalie Bray.  c. 1986. London.
>Collins. (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37)

>Pattern Making by the Flat-Pattern Method, 5th edition.  Norma R. Hollen. c.
>1981. New York. Fairchild. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67). (Note: Threads #11, pg
>37 gives c. as 1972 (?).)

>Clear-Cut Pattern Making by the Flat Pattern Method. Mary Gorgen Wolfe. c.
>1982. New York. MacMillan. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67)


>- In Threads #21 (spring 1989) there is an article about Madeleine Vionnet by
>Betty Kirke.  Vionnet designed clothes in the 20's and used bias cuts
>extensively.  The article states that Betty Kirke is working on a book about
>Madeleine Vionnet.  It should be interesting!  I keep checking for this book
>in Books In Print and looking for articles about it.  I have not seen any
>evidence of the book yet, guess it's time to write to Threads and ask them
>what's up.

>- Patternmaking and Design.  Antionette Colicchio & Burr D. Coe. c. 1967.
>This book uses flat pattern methods.  It emphasizes designs popular in the
>60's.  This book might be hard to find as it appears to be from a small
>publisher or possibly even self published.


>
>Miscellaneous Books:

>DD: Decorative Dressmaking [HIST-COST]

>Dressmaking details and techniques common in the first half of the 20th
>century (1900 - 1940 or so).  Each chapter describes the sewing techniques,
>shows pictures and illustrations of a number of garments and includes a
>project, generally with a scaled pattern (in sizes small, medium and large).
>Suggests and techniques can easily be applied to commercial patterns also; the
>charted patterns in the book have minimal sizing.  The pictures and drawings
>of techniques and variations are very inspirational. Chapters include:

>1) Flounces: Using flounces and ruffles on skirts and collars.  Circular,
>spiral and shaped flounces.  Appropriate materials, finishing edges,
>variations.  Pattern for simple dress with flounced collar at neckline.

>2) Stripes: Creating interesting designs with stripes.  Skirts, shirts hand
>dresses.  Chevron patterns, gored skirts, pleated stripes. Pattern for a dress
>with a pleated skirt and striped accents at neckline and hipline.

>3) Piping: Types of piping, making piping, cording.  Piping to accent seams or
>edges in jackets, shirts and dresses.  Pattern for simple linen jacket and
>pants with cording highlights in seams.

>4) Topstitching: Topstitching or quilting accents on collars, cuffs, yokes and
>hats. Pattern for a boiler suit (simple pants-suit) with topstitching on wide
>collar.

>5) Pintucks: Using pintucks to add design and accents to skirts, jackets.
>Using pintucks to control fullness in blouses, skirts.  Pattern for pintucked
>jacket and skirt with pintucks on collar, waist, pockets, yoke and front of
>skirt.

>6) Applique: Appliqued desings on clothing.  Somewhat "60's-ish".  Pattern for
>caftan with a white on white appliqued pattern.

>7) Bands and Bindings: Making and using bindings.  Classic 1940's suits with
>bound edges as an accent.  Binding garment edges.  Using binding on garment
>seams (bind one edge and sew seam together with an overlap seam).
>Incorporating bands into a pattern for accents, either inset bands or bands
>sewn over seam allowances.  Pattern for a full (oversized?) winter coat with
>banded seams and edges.

>8) Pleats and Tucks: Making pleats, marking pleats, pressed pleats, inverted
>pleats, partly stitched pleats, horizontal pleats, pleats in jackets,
>combining pleats and stripes. Pattern for pleated top and skirt that uses
>striped material for added interest.

>9) Ruching: Adding bands of ruching to dresses, jackets, blouses for
>detailing.  Rouching in garments, for example as gathering to form shaping for
>the bust of a dress.  Altering a pattern to add strips of rouching.  Altering
>a pattern to incorporate ruching (e.g. all-over gathering) in the garment
>seamlines. Pattern for an evening dress adapted for ruching.

>10) Faggoting: Making faggoting strips and sewing them together.  Different
>embroidery stitches to use. Faggoting in garment seams, collars, yokes, hems.
>Patterns for an oversized thick mohair jacket made of strips joined by
>faggoting.

>Decorative Dressmaking. Sue Thompson. Rodale Press. 1985. ISBN 0-87857-579-0.
>Has been available from Hard to Find Needlework Books (see sewing FAQ).



>MYOJC: Make Your Own Japanese Clothes.  [HIST-COST]

>Detailed directions for making a traditional kimono, outer robe, haori jacket,
>hanten jacket, wraparound top, vest, slacks, obi sashes and tabi socks.
>Includes comments about using traditional (14" wide) materials and modern
>materials.  Includes notes for fitting Westerners who are often larger than
>traditional Asian people.  Meticulous details!

>Make Your Own Japanese Clothes: Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear.  John
>Marshall.  ISBN 0-87011-865-x. $16.95 (paper). 1988. Kodansha International
>Ltd.


>FYF: Flatter Your Figure.

>Includes tests (using a mirror, stick, string and helpers) for about 20 figure
>features such as short legs, short or long waisted, swayback, shape of
>shoulders, bust, waist, hips, and arms.  Also analyzes shape of face and
>haircut. Advise for deciding which figure features are advantages, which are
>minor disadvantages and which are major disadvantages.  A section showing many
>basic garment shapes explains which are favorable or unfavorable for various
>figures.  Discusses camaflaging common problems, accenting your best features,
>and using garment lines to create illusions.  Emphasizes a positive attitude;
>accent positive features and don't draw attention to less desireable features.
>Advise for balancing conflicting advise (e.g. styles that are good for some of
>your features but bad for other features).

>This subject is usually covered in general sewing references, but FYF is a
>much more comprehensive guide.  Recommended for people who sew their own
>clothing or buy ready made.  Illustrates and discusses women's clothing only.

>Flatter Your Figure. Jan Larkey.  $9.95 ISBN 0-13-321795-7. 1991.  Prentice
>Hall / Simon Schuster.  Larkey had an article in Threads in ?early 1991? that
>contained a number of the ideas in FYF.


>
>FAQ: Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ?

>There are four textile related FAQs. The first list concentrates on general
>sewing questions and supply information and restoring antique sewing machines.
>The second list concentrates on costuming and historical clothing.  The third
>posting contains a list of books that cover sewing, fitting and pattern
>drafting.  The fourth is an index to quilting FAQs that are maintained by
>various individuals and are available by email request.

>When looking for an FAQ list, first do the obvious and check the relevant
>newsgroup for articles with "FAQ" in the subject line.  If you don't know how
>to check articles marked as read, your sysadmin can tell you. Next, try the
>group news.answers since this FAQ is crossposted there.  Again, your sysadmin
>can tell you the commands to use in searching.

>If you cannot find the FAQ on your system, you can retrieve a copy from
>Jonathan Kamen's archive of periodic postings.  For general instructions on
>the server, send email containing the commands "help" and "send index" (no
>quotes, separate lines) to
>   [e-mail]
>For a list of all periodic postings that are archives in news.answers, email
>the command "send usenet/news.answers/index" to the server.

>via anonymous FTP:
>Periodic postings including FAQs are archived at "rtfm.mit.edu" in the
>directory "/pub/usenet". The textile FAQs are:
>    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq
>    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming
>    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1
>    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2
>    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/quilting-faq-index

>via email server:
>The address of the server is [e-mail].  To retrieve files,
>send email to the server with a blank subject and one or more of these lines
>in the body:
>    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq
>    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming
>    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1
>    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2
>    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/quilting-faq-index

>Another recommended by [e-mail] (Colin Douthwaite)
>   that may be in print: THE COMPLETE HANDBOOK OF SEWING MACHINE REPAIR
>   by Howard Hutchinson. Published 1980. TAB BOOKS INC, Blue Ridge
>   Summit, PA. 17214
>Another from Alan Holland: The Sewing Machine Handbook by Peter Lucking;
>   Copyright 1985. Arco Publishing, Inc. LCC TT713.L75 1985;
>   ISBN 0-668-06562-1; paperback, 112 pages, list price $6.95; It has a
>   chapter on the several types of stitch-forming mechanism used in
>   sewing machines.  Another chapter is on sewing machine needles.
>Draping and Designing With Scissors and Cloth, 1920's and 1930's.  Two vol
>   reprint from the original Women's Institute series, used by coutures
>   of the era.  $18.95 + $2 s/h each volume.  Diane Barlow-Close
>   recommends.  Body Blueprints; 1734 Scott St., St. Helena, CA 94574
>Ladies' Tailor-Made Garments - 1908. S. S. Gorden. detailed patterns of
>   gored skirts, coats, capes, sleeves, collars and jackets. 240 pgs.
>   $22 ppd.  LACIS Dept SN4, 2982 Adeline St. Berkeley, CA 94703;
>   510-843-7178.  Is this an RLShep reprint?
>There will be a new Couture book from Claire Shaeffer and Taunton sometime
>   within the next year or so; check Sew News ads I guess (I've seen
>   suggestions for spring '93 or June '93, but I haven't seen it listed
>   anywhere yet so it may be delayed again)
>According to Diane Barlow-Close, Robbie Fanning is also working on a Couture
>   book; '93 may be the year of Couture books.
>Shirtmaking by David Coffin (Taunton, $30 paperback; new March '93)
>   one report says it has good pix and seems to have good text too
>_From the Neck Up_: *the* book on making hats.