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1994-07-11
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By: Birgit Denenberg
About Samplers
English samplers were common household items in the 15thcentury,worked
mostly by adault women.They were used as a record of favorite motifs and
patterns.The word sampler or exsampler comes from the french word
"exemplaire" which means a type of pattern that can be copied.
The earliest sampler that survived is from Jane Bostocke in 1598.It was
17x15 inch. and was stitched on unbleached linen.It has some floral
motifs at the top, a dog holding its lead,a herraldic terrier, a chained
bear were randomly placed, followed by an alphabet and an inscript"Alice
Lee was borne the 23rd November being Tuesday in the afternoone 1596" it
may have been a gift for this child.Below lots of patterns,including
back,satin,chain,buttonhole,detached buttonhole,ladder,
coral,speckling,couching,frenchknots and two sided italian cross
stitch.She also used black beads,seed pearls and metal thread.
The early samplers were more randomly stitched and later got more
"formal"with the patterns and borders arranged
horizontally(Bandsampl.)Popular were geometric patterns in
satinstich,whitework,tent stitch, holbein,florentine,
montenegrin,cross,algerian eye and more.Cross stich became more popular
in the 18th and 19th century.
The patterns of these samplers were taught from one generation to
another.Later there were books, of which Italy was the main source.They
were translated into english, french and german therfor it made sampler
patterns appear just about everywere in Europe.The first patternbook was
printed in Augsburg(germany) in 1523(!).Now the designs were on the
"open market". The earliest surviving book was from 1591(Vincentio) was
a translation from italian work, entitled:" New singular Patternes to
make all sortes of Lace Edgings and Cut Works;Newly invented for the
Profite and Contentemment of Ladies and Gentilwomen and others that are
desirous of this Art":>>Other books were "The Needles Excellency"(12th
edt.1632) and "Scholehouse for the Needle"(1624,Shoreleyker).
There are still many samplers in existence of the 17th century, but now
they were more an "exercise" for young girls.Alphabets and numerals were
more include, and the samplers usually signed and dated, and the age of
the person(5yrs-15).
There are two main categories for the 17th century samplers:
The Spot Sampler- randomly placed motifs a wide range of stitches.
The Band Sampler- usually narrow and long,were carefully arranged
designs , horizontally.
Whitework, cutwork, drawnthread and colored silks were all popular.In
the 18th century it changed to a more square form, they became more
naturalistic and had a Chinese and Indian influences.More picture
like.In the 19th century they were almost done completely in cross
stitch and a few scatterd stylized motifs.
The samplers in Europe were a lot like english samplers, but still
different:>Italian ones had alot of Lacework and cutwork,german ones
were pretty stern,in 18th cent.they were either small and square with
one alphabet surrounding a geometric motif;or long and narrow with
several alphabets and borders,name, date.They used limited stitches and
were not very colorful(my greatgrandmas1897,red on white:>).Dutch
samplers were also mostly cross stitch (18th&19th cen.)with flower
borders and "typically"dutch motifs.Spanish samplers were quite large
and very colorful and decorative, lots of floral and geometric
patterns.Mexican samplers are quite similar,due to the commen roots.(I'm
searching for info on jewish samplers.)Scottish samplers used bold
colors,red,green,rose,lots of heeraldic peacocks, dogs,rabbits,
illuminated letters and many initials of family members.
American samplers were mostly influenced by english ones.The first REAL
american sampler is that of Loara Standish,1655,(Pilgrim Hall,Plymouth,
Mass.)Its beautiful(!!!) and available as a kit.Its a band sampler with
no outer border and gorgeous colors.The original was worked on 50threads
by 66 threads and measured 7 1/4 by 23 1/2 inches.Very elaborate.
Around 1750 the sampler became more naturalistic,with landscapes and
animals and people.They used beads,sequins,metallic thread,hair,painted
paper and padded silk applique.They were mostly square or rectangular on
wool or linen. Stitches used incl.
back,eylet,herringbone,chain,stem,split stich, french knots and bullion
knots.The samplers of the 18th and 19th century were also mostly done in
cross stitch(like everywere else:>), with a verse surrounded by
symetricly arranged spotmotifs and alphabets.
Some sampler reprodutions avail.to stitch:
American,
Susanna Lane 1776
Rebekkah Hacker 1786
Rebekkah Watson 1733
Mary Baker 1789
Ann Greanawalt early 19th cent.
Nancy Nurse 1807
Scottish,
Mrs.I.E. 1742
Jean Scrimgeowr 1779
John Murray 1840
english,
Mary Elliot 1736
Ann Scutt about 1675
Grace Catlin 1719
Elizabeth Short 1661
and many more:>
Hope this helped everyone a little.My great love for samplers goes back
to the day I inheritated both of my greatgrandmas samplers
1897.1898.I've allways been intrigued(sp) by them.They hold so many
stories! One orphan sampler inscriton reads:"Jesus,permit thy gracious
name to stand,as the first efforts of an infant's hand,and,while her
fingers on the canvass move,Engage her tender thoughts to seek thy
love,with thy dear children let her have a part,and write thy
name,thyself upon her heart." M.A.Tipper,1808,orphan in Bristol.
Very moving and so are all these others! Its our history!