home
***
CD-ROM
|
disk
|
FTP
|
other
***
search
/
NeedleCraft Plus
/
needlecraftplusvolume1.iso
/
knit
/
wool2
/
woolgrde.txt
< prev
Wrap
Text File
|
1997-01-06
|
25KB
|
526 lines
WOOL GRADES AND THE SHEEP THAT GROW THE WOOL
Wool Grading Systems
For thousands of years, wool has been spun into coarse of fine yarns-the wood
fiber diameter determining whether it would be coarse or fine. However, more
than the terms "coarse" or "fine" were needed to describe the difference between
wool from the different breeds of sheep, or the wool from the different parts of
the same fleece. So, over the years, three grading systems evolved to describe
wool for manufacturing and sales. They are the Blood System, the Count System,
and the Micron System.
The Blood System is the oldest system, originating at the time of the early
American colonies. It is based on the bloodline or breeding of the sheep, and
is divided into six grades. The Merino or Rambouillet wool is called fine. A
half-blood wool comes from sheep that are half Merino or Rambouillet and half
another breed. Wool Types grown on sheep with fractional quantities of Merino
or Rambouillet breeding are called 1/2 blood, 3/8's, 1/4, Low 1/4, and Common;
and generally are coarser wool or wool with a larger fiber thickness. The blood
system, however, cannot describe newer sheep breeds or differences in wool from
the same animal.
The Count System is a more extensive method. The term count refers to the
number of "hanks" of yarn that can be spun from one pound of wool. A hank is
560 yards. The count system divides wool into 14 grades with the count range
from 80's to 36's. Wool with the high counts are finer and can be spun into
longer, finer yarn. For example, a wool grade of 64's would yield 35,840 yards
(64 x 560) of yarn or 64 hanks from one pound of clean wool; and a wool grade of
44's would only yield 24,640 yards or 44 hanks per pound.
The Micron System, the most technical and accurate system of grading, was
largely developed at the Denver Wool Laboratory, USDA. The system separates
wool into 16 grades according to the average fiber diameter as measured by a
micrometer. Wool too variable to fit in the limits of a grade is placed down
one grade. The difference in the average fiber diameter between the finest and
coarsest of the 16 grades is extremely small, as a micron is only 1/25,400 of an
inch (0.00004). For example, an 80's wool averages about 18 microns which is
less than half a 36's wool that averages 39 microns. This system may eventually
become the standard for describing wools in the United States.
Other Breeds
Cotswold
Native to the Cotswold Hills of England, they were developed from Leicester,
Hampshire and German Whitehead crosses. The Cotswold is large-sized with a
white face and wool on the legs, and is noted for its tuft of wool on the
forehead. They have good milking ability and maternal instincts. The breed
yields a long, coarse fleece of natural wavy curls.
Karakul
The Karakul originated in southern Russia and other Asian countries, and is
considered one of the world's oldest breeds. The breed is black, open-faced,
has long pendulous ears, and is fat tailed. they are fairly prolific, hardy,
easy lambers, have good maternal instincts, and an extended breeding season.
They are the foundation for many U.S. flocks for production of long, colored
wool for spinning.
Navajo
The Navajo was developed in the U.S. from the Spanish Churro sheep by the Navajo
Indians in Arizona, New Mexico, and Utah. Efforts are in progress to preserve
this unique breed. They are hardy, surviving under extremely harsh desert
conditions. The breed is normally white-faced with white wool, but may also
include brown, reddish-brown, gray and black fleece colors. The original Navajo
had a 4-6 inch coarse outer fleece coat and a finer 2-3 inch inner fleece coat,
with the wool being used to weave the famous Navajo blankets.
Panama
The Panama breed originated in Muldoon, Idaho, in 1812 from Rambouillet ram X
Lincoln ewe crosses, the opposite of the cross that produced the Columbia breed.
The Panama resembles the Columbia, but is more intermediate in size. They are
white-faced with wool on the legs and produce a medium wool. The breed is best
suited to the U.S. western range where ample feed is available.
Polypay
The Polypay is a breed developed in the 1970's by the U.S. Sheep Experiment
Station at Dubois, Idaho and Nicholas Farms at Sonoma, California from initial
crosses of Targhee X Dorset and Rambouillet X Finnsheep breeds. The breed is
medium-sized, white-faced and most appropriate for high potential feed producing
areas. Body size, type, and fleece traits are variable because of the recent
formation of this breed.
Tunis
The Tunis originated in North Africa and was imported into the U.S. in 1979.
Purebred flocks were popular in the South until almost destroyed during the
Civil War. They are medium-sized with a red or tan face and legs, pendulous
ears, no horns, a medium fat tail, and no wool on the head and legs. The Tunis
tend to breed out-of-season and produce a medium-wool fleece.
Glossary
Grade
A numerical designation of wool fineness based on average fiber diameter and
variation of fiber diameter.
Fineness
This term refers to fiber diameter.
Fine Wool
A wool fleece with an average fiber diameter of 17.70 (or under) to 22.04
microns. A micron is 1/25,400 (0.00004) inch.
Medium Wool
A wool fleece with an average fiber diameter of 22.05 to 30.99 microns.
Coarse Wool
A wool fleece with an average fiber diameter of 31.00 to 40.20 (and over)
microns.
Grease Fleece Weight
Refers to the weight of the fleece as it comes from the sheep. Grease wool
includes natural grease, yolk and suint plus acquired impurities like tags,
sand, dirt, brands, or paints.
Clean Wool Yield
Clean wool is what remains after dirt and non-wool material (shrinkage) are
removed. Expressed as a percentage, it is 100% less the Shrinkage = Yield.
Staple Length
Although not considered in officially determining wool grade, length is an
important physical property of the wool fiber. Unstretched staple is
representative of average fiber length in a fleece or top. Different fiber
lengths are used in different fabrics and products, and processed on different
types of machinery.
THE SHEEP THAT GROW THE WOOL
Fine-Wool Fleece
Delaine-Merino
Mature Body Weight
Ram 175-225 lb.
Ewe 125-160 lb.
Growth Rate M-*
Wool Type Fine
Blood System Fine
Spinning Count 64's-80's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 22-17
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 9-14 lb.
Yield 40-50%
Staple Length 2 1/2-4"
The Delaine-Merino was developed from the Spanish Merino, having an unbroken
line of breeding more than 1,200 years old. Modern Delaine-Merinos are
relatively smooth-bodied, intermediate sized, white-faced with wool on the legs,
hardy, long-lived, gregarious, and adapted to unassisted lambing. The breed has
an extended breeding season, and produces a high-quality fine-wool fleece.
Rambouillet
Mature Body Weight
Ram 200-300 lb.
Ewe 135-180 lb.
Growth Rate H-
Wool Type Fine
Blood System 1/2-Fine
Spinning Count 60's-80's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 23-19
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 9-14 lb.
Yield 45-55%
Staple Length 2 1/2-4"
Developed from the Spanish Merino in France and Germany, the Rambouillet is the
foundation of most Western U.S. range flocks. white-faced with wool on the
legs, the Rambouillet is large, rugged, medium to fast growth, long-lived,
gregarious, and adaptable to a wide variety of arid range conditions. The breed
has an extended breeding season, and produces a high-quality, fine-wool fleece.
Debouillet
Mature Body Weight
Ram 175-200 lb.
Ewe 125-160 lb.
Growth Rate M-
Wool Type Fine
Blood System Fine
Spinning Count 62's-80's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 23-18
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 9-14 lb.
Yield 35-50%
Staple Length 3-5"
The Debouillet breed was developed in New Mexico in 1920 from Delaine-Merino and
Rambouillet crosses. The Debouillet is well-adapted for southwest range sheep
production, are medium-sized, and white-faced with wool on the legs. They are
hardy, gregarious, and adaptable to unassisted pasture lambing. They produce a
high quality fine-wool fleece.
Medium-Wool Fleece
Cheviot
Mature Body Weight
Ram 160-200 lb.
Ewe 120-150 lb.
Growth Rate L
Wool Type Medium
Blood System Low 1/4-1/2's
Spinning Count 48's-58's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 33-27
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 5-8 lb.
Yield 50-65%
Staple Length 2 1/2-4"
The Cheviot originated in the hill country of Scotland, and was imported into
the U.S. in 1938. They are small-sized, white-faced with bare head and legs,
and are best adapted to northern climates. The breed is moderately prolific,
easy lambers, good milkers, and produce a desirable carcass at light weights.
they produce a high yielding medium wool.
Columbia
Mature Body Weight
Ram 250-350 lb.
Ewe 150-225 lb.
Growth Rate H
Wool Type Medium
Blood System 1/4-1/2
Spinning Count 50's-60's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 30-23
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 9-14 lb.
Yield 45-55%
Staple Length 3-5"
Originating the U.S., the Columbia was developed in 1912 from Lincoln X
Rambouillet crosses. Columbias are relatively hardy, gregarious and good
mothers. They are large with white faces and wool on the legs, and are
increasingly used to sire crossbred market lambs. They yield heavy, medium-wool
fleeces with good staple length.
Corriedale
Mature Body Weight
Ram 175-275 lb.
Ewe 130-180 lb.
Growth Rate M
Wool Type Medium
Blood System 1/4-1/2
Spinning Count 50's-60's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 31-24
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 9-14 lb.
Yield 45-55%
Staple Length 3 1/2-6"
Corriedale sheep originated in New Zealand from Lincoln and Leicester X Merino
crosses, and was imported into the U.S. in 1914. They are medium-sized, white-
faced with wool on the legs, and generally located in the farm flock states.
The Corriedale produce good market lambs, are moderately prolific, and yield
heavy, medium-wool fleeces with good staple length.
Dorset (Polled and Horned)
Mature Body Weight
Ram 200-250 lb.
Ewe 140-180 lb.
Growth Rate M
Wool Type Medium
Blood System Low 1/4-3/8's
Spinning Count 46's-58's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 33-27
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 5-8 lb.
Yield 50-65%
Staple Length 2 1/2-4"
Originated in Southern England, the Dorset (Horned) was imported into the U.S.
in 1885. In 1948, a mutation occurred resulting in the Polled Dorsets, which
are now a popular commercial breed in the farm flock states. They are also used
as a cross with fine-wool ewes to produce crossbred females that tend to breed
out of season. Dorsets are medium-sized, white-faced with wool on the legs,
heavy milking, and yield medium-wool fleeces free of black fibers.
Finnsheep
Mature Body Weight
Ram 150-200 lb.
Ewe 110-150 lb.
Growth Rate L
Wool Type Medium to Long
Blood System 1/4-1/2
Spinning Count 50's-60's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 31-24
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 4-8 lb.
Yield 50-70%
Staple Length 3-6"
The Finnsheep originated in Finland, and was imported into Canada in 1966 and
the U.S. in 1968. They are white-faced with bare head and legs, and primarily
used in the U.S. to produce crossbred ewes. The breed is highly prolific, and
noted for early puberty, easy lambing, good lamb vigor at birth, and excellent
maternal instincts. they yield a medium wool with good staple length.
Hampshire
Mature Body Weight
Ram 250-350 lb.
Ewe 175-250 lb.
Growth Rate H
Wool Type Medium
Blood System 1/4-3/8's
Spinning Count 46's-58's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 33-25
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 5-8 lb.
Yield 50-60%
Staple Length 2-3 1/2"
The Hampshire originated in England from Southdown X Wiltshire Horn and
Berkshire Knot crosses, and was imported into the U.S. in the 1880's. They are
widely used in the U.S. to crossbreed for market lamb production. Hampshires
are large-sized with black faces and wool on the legs. The breed is prolific,
has good milking ability, good growth and carcass cutability. They produce
medium-wool fleeces.
Montadale
Mature Body Weight
Ram 200-275 lb.
Ewe 150-180 lb.
Growth Rate M-
Wool Type Medium
Blood System 1/4-3/8's
Spinning Count 56's-58's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 30-25
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 5-9 lb.
Yield 45-60%
Staple Length 3-4"
The Montadale was developed in the U.S. from Cheviot X Columbia crosses, and is
used primarily in the farm flock states. The breed is medium-sized with a
white-face and bare head and legs. They are fairly prolific and are good
milkers with good maternal instincts. Montadales produce desirable carcasses
and a medium wool with good staple length.
Oxford
Mature Body Weight
Ram 225-235 lb.
Ewe 150-200 lb.
Growth Rate M+
Wool Type Medium to Long
Blood System Low 1/4-1/4
Spinning Count 46's-50's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 34-30
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 5-8 lb.
Yield 50-60%
Staple Length 3-6"
The Oxford originated in England from Hampshire X Cotswold crosses, and was
imported into the U.S. in 1846. The Oxford is primarily located in the farm
flock states in the U.S. They are medium- to large-sized with a dark brown face
and wool on the legs. The breed is fairly prolific, has good maternal
instincts, and produces desirable carcasses. They produce a low, medium-grade
wool.
Shrophsire
Mature Body Weight
Ram 225-275 lb.
Ewe 160-200 lb.
Growth Rate M+
Wool Type Medium
Blood System 1/4-3/8's
Spinning Count 48's-60's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 33-25
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 5-8 lb.
Yield 50-60%
Staple Length 2-3 1/2"
The Shrophsire originated in England from native stock and Southdown, Leicester
and Cotswold crosses. The Shropshire was imported into the U.S. in 1855. They
are located in farm flocks and are used in market lamb production. The breed is
medium to large with a dark face and wool on the legs, prolific, good milkers,
and produce good carcasses. They produce medium wool.
Southdown
Mature Body Weight
Ram 180-230 lb.
Ewe 120-180 lb.
Growth Rate L
Wool Type Medium
Blood System 3/8's-1/2
Spinning Count 54's-60's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 29-24
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 5-8 lb.
Yield 40-55%
Staple Length 2-3"
One of the oldest breeds of sheep, the Southdown originated in England.
Imported into the U.S. in 1803, the Southdown is best suited to farm flock
production of hot-house lambs or meaty carcasses at light weights. They are
small-to medium-sized with a light brown face and wool on the legs. The
Southdown is fairly prolific, with average milking ability and yields a medium-
wool fleece.
Suffolk
Mature Body Weight
Ram 275-400 lb.
Ewe 200-300 lb.
Growth Rate H+
Wool Type Medium
Blood System 1/4-3/8's
Spinning Count 48's-58's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 33-26
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 4-8 lb.
Yield 50-60%
Staple Length 2-3 1/2"
The Suffolk originated In England from Southdown X Norfolk crosses and was
imported into the U.S. in 1888. They are widely used in market lamb production,
and in farm flock states are frequently crossbred with fine-wool ewes for this
purpose. The Suffolk is the largest-sized breed in the U.S., has a bare head
and black face and legs. They are prolific, good milkers, have excellent growth
rate, and produce superior, high cutability carcasses. They yield a medium-wool
fleece frequently contaminated with black fibers.
Targhee
Mature Body Weight
Ram 200-300 lb.
Ewe 140-200 lb.
Growth Rate M+
Wool Type Medium
Blood System 1/2
Spinning Count 58's-64's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 25-21
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 9-14 lb.
Yield 45-55%
Staple Length 3-4 1/2"
Developed in 1926 by the U.S. Sheep Experiment Station, Dubois, Idaho, the
Targhee has 3/4 fine-wool and 1/4 long-wool breeding from Rambouillet X Lincoln
and Rambouillet X Corriedale crosses. They are predominantly located in the
intermountain and northern states. The Targhee is relatively large-sized,
white-faced with wool on the legs, and adaptable to varied climate and forage
conditions. They herd well, produce good market lambs, and yield a heavy,
medium-wool fleece with good staple length.
Coarse-Wool Fleece
Border Leicester
Mature Body Weight
Ram 225-300 lb.
Ewe 150-225 lb.
Growth Rate M+
Wool Type Long
Blood System Common & braidlow 1/4
Spinning Count 36's-48's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 38-30
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 8-12 lb.
Yield 60-70%
Staple Length 5-10"
The Border Leicester originated in England from Leicester X Cheviot crosses.
found in the northern U.S. and Canada, it is particularly adapted to high
rainfall and good pasture areas. this medium to large breed is white-faced with
bare head and legs. They are moderately prolific, good milkers and mothers, and
are useful in crossbred lamb production. They yield a long, coarse wool that
spins well.
Lincoln
Mature Body Weight
Ram 250-300 lb.
Ewe 200-250 lb.
Growth Rate M
Wool Type Long
Blood System Common & braid
Spinning Count 36's-46's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 41-34
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 10-14 lb.
Yield 55-70%
Staple Length 8-15"
Originating in England, the Lincoln was imported into the U.S. in 1825. The
breed was developed from Leicester X Old Lincoln crosses and has made important
contributions to the development of other breeds. The Lincoln is a large, hardy
breed with a white face and wool on the legs. They produce a heavy fleece that
is very long, coarse and ideal for spinning.
Romney
Mature Body Weight
Ram 200-275 lb.
Ewe 150-200 lb.
Growth Rate M-
Wool Type Long
Blood System Braid-low 1/4
Spinning Count 40's-48's
Average Fiber Diameter Micron 39-32
Grease Fleece Weight Ewe 8-12 lb.
Yield 55-70%
Staple Length 4-6"
The Romney was developed in England's Romney Marsh region to withstand cold, wet
conditions. They were imported into the U.S. in 1904, and are primarily located
in the northwestern coastal areas. Romneys are medium-sized, white-faced with
wool on the legs, and good mothers with average prolificacy and milking ability.
They produce a coarse fleece with good staple length, well-suited for spinning.
REFERENCE: American Wool Council