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c120.d64
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videoram.txt
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1995-08-09
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7KB
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118 lines
╔NSTALLATION ╔NSTRUCTION
[╞OR ├-128 ╓IDEO ╒PGRADE]
[1] ┴LLOW AMPLE WORK AREA. ╙PREAD OUT A TOWEL OR TWO TO AVOID
SCRATCHING ├-128 CASE, AND HELP CATCH LOOSE SCREWS.
[2] ┘OU WILL BE DEALING WITH EXTREMELY SENSITIVE ╔├'S. ╨LEASE FOLLOW
USUAL PRECAUTIONS TO AVOID STATIC CHARGES.
[3] ╘URN OVER COMPUTER (WITH FRONT FACING YOU), ╥EMOVE SIX (6) SCREWS,
1 AT EACH BACK CORNER, 1 IN THE CENTER, AND 3 ACROSS FRONT. (╧LDER
MODELS HAVE PHILLIPS-HEAD MACHINE SCREWS, HERE USE MEDIUM SIZE PHILLIPS
SCREW DRIVER #1.) ╬EWER MODELS WILL HAVE HEX-SHAPED INSERT SCREWS.
╚ERE USE A 5/64 HEX KEY (ALAN WRENCH). ╬OW TURN COMPUTER RIGHT SIDE
UP.
[4] ╘HE TOP AND BOTTOM HALVES OF THE COMPUTER ARE NOW HELD TOGETHER BY
TWO INTERLOCKING PLASTIC TABS. ╘HE TWO TABS PROTRUDING DOWN FROM THE
TOP HAVE "TEETH" POINTING OUTWARD, THAT INTERLOCK WITH THE BOTTOM.
╘HESE TABS ARE LOCATED AT A POINT BETWEEN THE TOP ROW OF NUMBER KEYS
AND THE SINGLE ROW OF FUNCTION KEYS AT BOTH SIDES OF THE KEYBOARD.
╨RESS THE TOP ╔╬ AT THIS SPOT, (AWAY FROM THE BASE AND TOWARDS CENTER),
AS YOU LIFT THE TOP UP. ┘OU MAY ALSO TRY TO PULL THE BASE ╧╒╘ AT THE
SAME POINT. ╧NCE ONE SIDE IS FREE, THE OTHER WILL FOLLOW EASILY.
[5] (A) ╬OTE ORIENTATION OF ╠╔╨ PART OF PILOT LIGHT ╠┼─ PLUG, ATTACHED
TO LEFT SIDE OF CIRCUIT BOARD, (╔T POINTS OUT.) ╨ULL APART MINI PLUG.
(B) ╘HE KEYBOARD IS ATTACHED TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD WITH A
MULTI-WIRE MINI PLUG. ╚ERE TOO, PULL APART PLUG, AND ╬╧╘┼ ORIENTATION.
(╘HERE IS A BROWN WIRE CLOSER TO POWER SWITCH....BUT CHECK OUT UNIT
BEING WORKED ON FOR VARIATION.) ╫HEN SEPERATING THIS PLUG, NOTE THAT
THE TWO PLASTIC PARTS MERGE COMPLETELY TOGETHER. ╘HE "STILTS" COMING
OUT OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD ARE ╬╧╘ WHAT IT IS PLUGED INTO. ╘HEY ARE PART
OF THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE PLUG.
(C) ╥EMOVE THE HEAVY BRAID GROUND WIRE WHICH ALSO ATTACHES THE
KEYBOARD TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD WITH A HEX KEY OR PHILLIPS HEAD.
[6] ╞REE THE ╥╞ SHIELD FROM THE BOARD. ┴T LEFT REAR-CENTER IS A LARGE
PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW. ╥EMOVE IT. ├OUNTING THIS SCREW, THE SHIELD IS
ATTACHED TO THE BOARD BY 7 HEX SCREWS. ╥EMOVE ALL 7. ╚OLDING THE
SHIELD TO THE BASE ARE ALSO TWISTED TABS, AT 4 PLACES ALONG THE FRONT,
AND LEFT EDGE. ╟┼╬╘╠┘ TURN TABS STRAIGHT WITH NEEDLE-NOSE PLIERS.
╫┴╘├╚ DIRECTION TABS ARE TWISTED, SOME GO ONE WAY, OTHERS THE OTHER.
╞INALLY, JUST ABOVE THE KEYBOARD MINI-PLUG ON THE RIGHT SIDE BY A TAB,
THE ╥╞ SHIELD IS SOLDERED TO THE BOARD. ╒NSOLDER AT THIS POINT, AND
THEN ╥╞ SHIELD CAN BE REMOVED.
[7] ╧N THE MAIN BOARD IS A SMALL METAL BOX, AT LEFT-CENTER, ACTUALLY
THE ONLY ONE THERE. ╘HE TWO CHIPS TO BE REPLACED ARE LOCATED INSIDE.
╟ENTLY PULL UP AND REMOVE THE LID. ╘HE CHIP LOCATIONS ARE MARKED ON
THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS ╒23 AND ╒25.
[8] ╙EPERATE THE CIRCUIT BOARD FROM THE BOTTOM ╥╞ SHIELD, BY CAREFULLY
TWISTING THE TABS HOLDING IT TO THE BOARD. ╠EAVE THE BOTTOM ╥╞ SHIELD
IN THE BOTTOM PLASTIC CASE, AND LIFT OUT THE CIRCUIT BOARD, WITH A
"LEFT PULL AND UP" ANGLE, SO THAT PLUGS INSIDE PLASTIC BASE SLIP OUT
BEFORE LIFTING UP.
[9] ╥EMOVE CHIPS ╒23 AND ╒25, BY EITHER A CLIP AND UNSOLDER OR SIMPLE
UNSOLDER METHOD. ╘HE OLD CHIP PINS MAY BE BENT ON THE BOTTOM, IF SO
STRAIGHTEN BEFORE PULLING OUT. ┼╪┴═╔╬┼ CAREFULLY FOR DAMAGE!! ╔F ANY
SEE BELOW BEFORE PROCEEDING!! ╔NSERT ╔├ SOCKETS, BENDING BOTTOM PINS
FOR A TIGHT FIT, AND SOLDER IN PLACE. ╨LUG IN THE TWO #4464'S NOTING
THAT THE "DIMPLE" ON THE #4464'S LINE UP WITH THE "DIMPLE" OUTLINE ON
THE CIRCUIT BOARD.
[10] ╥EASSEMBLE CASING, CAREFULLY REVERSING EACH STEP.
╧OOOOPS!!
---------
╘HERE ARE THREE COMMON GOOFS, WHICH SHOULD BE AVOIDED, BUT IF THEY
OCCUR, HERE ARE THE PATCHES:
[1] ╙OLDER "RAN" AND NOW TWO PIN CONNECTIONS ARE CROSSED. ╧KEY, THIS
IS EASY, JUST UNSOLDER THE CONNECTION, CAREFULLY SEEING THAT NO OTHER
PIN CONNECTIONS ARE CROSSED.
[2] ╔N UNSOLDERING THE OLD CHIP, THE PIN CONNECTION GOT BURNED OUT.
╧KEY, THIS IS A BIT MORE TRICKY. ┘OU HAVE TO EXAMINE THE CIRCUIT BOARD
BOTH THE TOP AND BOTTOM SIDES, AND TRACE THE CONNECTION FROM THE BURNED
OUT PIN HOLE TO WHERE IT GOES. [╔F YOU HAVE A SCHEMATIC, BY ALL MEANS
USE THIS.] ╘HEN, AFTER INSERTING THE ╔├ SOCKET, USE A "MAGIC MARKER" ON
THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD TO MARK THE BURNED OUT PIN, AND ITS CONNECTING
POINT. ╥EMEMBER WHEN WORKING ON THE BOARD BOTTOM, ITS LOCATIONS ARE
REVERSED, SO DOUBLE CHECK THAT YOU ARE TRACING CONNECTIONS CORRECTLY!!
╘AKE A LOOP OF LIGHT WEIGHT WIRE, ALLOW FOR A LOOP LONGER THAN THE
DISTANCE TO BE CONNECTED, AND SOLDER THE WIRE TO THE TWO POINTS. ╒SE
ELECTRIC TAPE TO ISOLATE THE TWO SOLDER CONNECTIONS FROM ANY NEAR BY
PINS, AT BOTH ENDS OF THE WIRE. ╘HEN FLATTEN THIS WIRE TO THE BOTTOM OF
THE BOARD, GOING AROUND THE "PIN HILLS". ┴ND FINALLY TAKE SEVERAL LONG
PIECES OF ELECTRICAL TAPE, MAYBE 4 OR 5 INCHES LONG, AND SECURE THE
WIRE TO THE BOTTOM, SO THAT IT IS FLAT AGAINST THE BOARD.
[3] ╔N REMOVING THE OLD CHIP, PART OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD TRACING TORE.
╫ELL, THIS IS PRETTY MUCH LIKE GOOF #2 ABOVE. ═AKE SURE THAT THERE IS
NO LOOSE TRACINGS TO CAUSE A SHORT. ╘RACE OUT THE CONNECTION, GO TO
THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, AND SOLDER IN A WIRE SPLICE CONNECTION AS
DESCRIBED IN #2.
┴DDENDUM (═ARCH 1993)
----------------------
╘HIS WAS WRITTEN BEFORE A 64K ╓─├ PLUG-IN BOARD WAS MADE AVAILABLE THRU
╙OFTWARE ╙UPPORT ╔NT'L. ╘HE BOARD IS THE EASIER, FASTER, AND MOST
IMPORTANTLY, SAFER WAY TO UPGRADE.
╒NLESS YOU ARE COMFORTABLE WITH ELECTRONICS AND SOLDERING IN CLOSE
QUARTERS THIS PROJECT SHOULD NOT BE UNDERTAKEN. ╒NDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES
SHOULD THIS BE A "FIRST" SOLDERING PROJECT. ╔T IS ONLY FOR THOSE
EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRONIC PROJECTS.
OH! ╩UST A REMINDER. ╘HIS UPGRADE IS REQUIRED ONLY FOR THOSE WITH OLD
STYLE FLAT ├128'S. ┴LL ├128─'S HAVE THIS UPGRADE PRE-INSTALLED.
_____________
_____________
╚OWARD ╚ERMAN
03/11/93