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<text id=93TT0181>
<link 93TO0122>
<title>
Aug. 09, 1993: Forgotten, But Not Gone
</title>
<history>
TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1993
Aug. 09, 1993 Lost Secrets Of The Maya
</history>
<article>
<source>Time Magazine</source>
<hdr>
COVER, Page 48
Forgotten, But Not Gone
</hdr>
<body>
<p>By GUY GARCIA PALENQUE--With reporting by Laura Lopez/San Cristobal de las Casas
</p>
<p> A tour guide at the legendary ruins of Palenque in Chiapas,
Mexico, likes to tell the story. A tourist, after staring in
awe at the towering pyramids, turned to the guide and said,
"The buildings are beautiful, but where did all the people go?"
"Of course, she was talking to a Maya," the guide says, shaking
his head at the irony. "We're still here. We never left."
</p>
<p> The exchange illustrates a living paradox at the heart of the
Maya puzzle: even as scientists continue to investigate the
mysterious eclipse of the classic Maya empire, the Maya themselves
are all around them. An estimated 1.2 million Maya still live
in the southern Mexican state of Chiapas, and nearly 5 million
more are spread throughout the Yucatan Peninsula and the cities
and rural farm communities of Belize, Guatemala, Honduras and
El Salvador. Ethnically, they are derived from the same people
who created the most exalted culture in Mesoamerica. Yet the
thousands of visitors who come each year to admire the imposing
temples of Palenque might be shocked to know the ignominious
fate of the Maya's modern-day descendants.
</p>
<p> Centuries of persecution and cultural isolation have turned
the Maya into impoverished outcasts in their own land. At best,
they are often reduced to tourist attractions; for a little
money, Mexico's Lacandon Indians, for instance, will display
their traditional white cotton shikur and long black hair. But
condescension is the mildest of the abuses suffered by today's
Maya. In a 1992 report on the indigenous peoples of the Americas,
Amnesty International cited dozens of human-rights violations
carried out by Mexican authorities against the Maya people of
Chiapas: they include an incident in 1990 when 11 Maya were
tortured after being arrested during a land dispute, and another
one two years ago when 100 Maya were beaten and imprisoned for
30 hours without food or medical attention. In Guatemala's 30-year-old
civil war, it has been the Maya who have been the primary victims
of the military's antiguerrilla campaigns in the highlands,
which have left 140,000 Guatemalans dead or missing. In some
cases, government troops have burned entire Maya villages.
</p>
<p> The systematic subjugation of the Maya dates back to the Spanish
Conquest of the early 16th century, when Catholic missionaries
outlawed the Maya religion and burned all but four of their
sacred bark-paper books. Indians who were not killed in battle
or felled by European diseases were forced to work on colonial
plantations, often as slaves. Bands of Maya rebels, known to
be ferocious fighters, resisted pacification for almost 400
years, first under the Spanish occupation and then under the
Mexican army after Mexico became independent.
</p>
<p> Despite this history of defiance--or maybe, in some cases,
because of it--the Maya continued to be targets of abuse even
after being incorporated into the family of Central American
nations. As recently as 20 years ago, Maya peasants carrying
chickens or peanuts to the town market in San Cristobal de las
Casas were in danger of having their wares snatched away by
non-Indian women, or "Black Widows." And though the town's economy
depended on trade with the Indians, Maya found walking the streets
at night would be thrown into jail and fined.
</p>
<p> Today, despite government decrees that guarantee equal rights
for Indians and the new presidency in Guatemala of human-rights
champion Ramiro de Leon Carpio, indigenous peoples like the
Maya remain at the bottom rung of the political and economic
ladder. In Chiapas, where the natives speak nine different languages,
literacy rates are about 50%, compared with 88% for Mexico as
a whole. Infant mortality among the Maya is 500 per 1,000 live
births, 10 times as high as the national average. And 70% of
the Indians in the countryside lack access to potable water.
</p>
<p> In these sorry conditions, many Maya have seized on their old
ways to make sense of their modern lives. In the remote highlands
of Guatemala and Mexico, where the rugged terrain has held the
outside world at bay, contemporary Maya still practice many
of the same rituals that were performed by their ancestors 4,000
years ago. Maya weavers embroider their wares with diamond motifs
that are virtually identical to the cosmological patterns depicted
on the lintels of ancient temples at Yaxchilan and other Maya
sites. By marking their clothing with the symbols of their ancestors,
the Maya artisans build a material link to pre-Columbian gods--and the indelible spirit of their cultural past. "Depictions
of everyday life do not occur in the weaving," notes Walter
F. Morris Jr., a Seattle-based anthropologist and author of
Living Maya. "It's always something supernatural, something
dreamt, something you can only see in dreams."
</p>
</body>
</article>
</text>