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- <text id=89TT0226>
- <title>
- Jan. 23, 1989: Cookies The Heart Can Love
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1989
- Jan. 23, 1989 Barbara Bush:The Silver Fox
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- HEALTH & FITNESS, Page 71
- Cookies the Heart Can Love
- </hdr><body>
- <p>Bowing to consumers, foodmakers are abandoning tropical oils
- </p>
- <p> As every cook knows, tinkering with a favorite recipe can
- bring grunts of disapproval from family and friends. For a food
- company, such tampering invites an even greater disaster:
- plummeting sales. Today, though, food manufacturers are busily
- reformulating some of their most popular products. Early this
- month, Keebler became the fourth major company since last fall
- -- joining Pepperidge Farm, Kellogg and Sunshine Biscuits -- to
- announce a switch in ingredients. The change: replacing highly
- saturated tropical oils with less saturated fats.
- </p>
- <p> The move, which affects such items as Kellogg's Cracklin'
- Oat Bran cereal, Keebler's Soft Batch cookies, Pepperidge Farm's
- Goldfish crackers and Sunshine's Hydrox cookies, is prompted by
- health considerations -- and rising consumer pressure.
- Manufacturers have long been partial to the balmy-sounding
- vegetable oils -- coconut, palm-kernel and palm -- mainly
- because they impart a nongreasy taste and texture and extend
- the shelf life of products. But they are also high in saturated
- fat, the prime booster of blood-cholesterol levels. Coconut oil
- contains 92% saturated fat, palm-kernel oil 86% and palm oil
- 51%. In comparison, the damaging fat makes up only 27% of
- cottonseed oil, 15% of soybean oil and 13% of corn oil.
- </p>
- <p> Consumer advocates have been campaigning in recent years to
- get companies to eliminate tropical oils. Last fall Phil
- Sokolof, founder of the National Heart Savers Association, fired
- the strongest salvo yet in the ongoing battle. He began placing
- full-page ads in leading newspapers lambasting U.S. food
- processors for "the Poisoning of America" and featuring photos
- of their offending products. Sokolof, 66, a building-materials
- manufacturer in Omaha who suffered a heart attack 22 years ago,
- has spent $2 million so far on his crusade. Says he: "People
- feel like they have been deceived by the food companies."
- Sokolof points out that Procter & Gamble's Crisco is touted as
- having no cholesterol, but it contains palm oil.
- </p>
- <p> Although many of the manufacturers targeted by Sokolof are
- revising their products, they all insist that the changes were
- long in the works. Says Joseph Stewart, a vice president at
- Kellogg, which in December began replacing the coconut oil in
- its Cracklin' Oat Bran cereal with a blend of cottonseed and
- soybean oil: "It would be impossible to do the R. and D. and
- change our ingredients overnight." But he concedes that "Mr.
- Sokolof did create a sense of urgency for us to move faster."
- </p>
- <p> Some scientists think the public has become overanxious.
- "The tropical oil issue is growing out of proportion," declares
- Basil Rifkind, a cholesterol researcher at the National Heart,
- Lung and Blood Institute. Roughly 15% of the calories in
- Americans' diets now come from saturated fats. And tropical
- oils supply only about a fourteenth of that amount. Americans
- might better worry about cutting back on the two biggest sources
- of saturated fat: meat and dairy products.
- </p>
-
- </body></article>
- </text>
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