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- ╔NSTALLATION ╔NSTRUCTION
- [╞OR ├-128 ╓IDEO ╒PGRADE]
-
- [1] ┴LLOW AMPLE WORK AREA. ╙PREAD OUT A TOWEL OR TWO TO AVOID
- SCRATCHING ├-128 CASE, AND HELP CATCH LOOSE SCREWS.
-
- [2] ┘OU WILL BE DEALING WITH EXTREMELY SENSITIVE ╔├'S. ╨LEASE FOLLOW
- USUAL PRECAUTIONS TO AVOID STATIC CHARGES.
-
- [3] ╘URN OVER COMPUTER (WITH FRONT FACING YOU), ╥EMOVE SIX (6) SCREWS,
- 1 AT EACH BACK CORNER, 1 IN THE CENTER, AND 3 ACROSS FRONT. (╧LDER
- MODELS HAVE PHILLIPS-HEAD MACHINE SCREWS, HERE USE MEDIUM SIZE PHILLIPS
- SCREW DRIVER #1.) ╬EWER MODELS WILL HAVE HEX-SHAPED INSERT SCREWS.
- ╚ERE USE A 5/64 HEX KEY (ALAN WRENCH). ╬OW TURN COMPUTER RIGHT SIDE
- UP.
-
- [4] ╘HE TOP AND BOTTOM HALVES OF THE COMPUTER ARE NOW HELD TOGETHER BY
- TWO INTERLOCKING PLASTIC TABS. ╘HE TWO TABS PROTRUDING DOWN FROM THE
- TOP HAVE "TEETH" POINTING OUTWARD, THAT INTERLOCK WITH THE BOTTOM.
- ╘HESE TABS ARE LOCATED AT A POINT BETWEEN THE TOP ROW OF NUMBER KEYS
- AND THE SINGLE ROW OF FUNCTION KEYS AT BOTH SIDES OF THE KEYBOARD.
- ╨RESS THE TOP ╔╬ AT THIS SPOT, (AWAY FROM THE BASE AND TOWARDS CENTER),
- AS YOU LIFT THE TOP UP. ┘OU MAY ALSO TRY TO PULL THE BASE ╧╒╘ AT THE
- SAME POINT. ╧NCE ONE SIDE IS FREE, THE OTHER WILL FOLLOW EASILY.
-
- [5] (A) ╬OTE ORIENTATION OF ╠╔╨ PART OF PILOT LIGHT ╠┼─ PLUG, ATTACHED
- TO LEFT SIDE OF CIRCUIT BOARD, (╔T POINTS OUT.) ╨ULL APART MINI PLUG.
- (B) ╘HE KEYBOARD IS ATTACHED TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD WITH A
- MULTI-WIRE MINI PLUG. ╚ERE TOO, PULL APART PLUG, AND ╬╧╘┼ ORIENTATION.
- (╘HERE IS A BROWN WIRE CLOSER TO POWER SWITCH....BUT CHECK OUT UNIT
- BEING WORKED ON FOR VARIATION.) ╫HEN SEPERATING THIS PLUG, NOTE THAT
- THE TWO PLASTIC PARTS MERGE COMPLETELY TOGETHER. ╘HE "STILTS" COMING
- OUT OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD ARE ╬╧╘ WHAT IT IS PLUGED INTO. ╘HEY ARE PART
- OF THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE PLUG.
- (C) ╥EMOVE THE HEAVY BRAID GROUND WIRE WHICH ALSO ATTACHES THE
- KEYBOARD TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD WITH A HEX KEY OR PHILLIPS HEAD.
-
- [6] ╞REE THE ╥╞ SHIELD FROM THE BOARD. ┴T LEFT REAR-CENTER IS A LARGE
- PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW. ╥EMOVE IT. ├OUNTING THIS SCREW, THE SHIELD IS
- ATTACHED TO THE BOARD BY 7 HEX SCREWS. ╥EMOVE ALL 7. ╚OLDING THE
- SHIELD TO THE BASE ARE ALSO TWISTED TABS, AT 4 PLACES ALONG THE FRONT,
- AND LEFT EDGE. ╟┼╬╘╠┘ TURN TABS STRAIGHT WITH NEEDLE-NOSE PLIERS.
- ╫┴╘├╚ DIRECTION TABS ARE TWISTED, SOME GO ONE WAY, OTHERS THE OTHER.
- ╞INALLY, JUST ABOVE THE KEYBOARD MINI-PLUG ON THE RIGHT SIDE BY A TAB,
- THE ╥╞ SHIELD IS SOLDERED TO THE BOARD. ╒NSOLDER AT THIS POINT, AND
- THEN ╥╞ SHIELD CAN BE REMOVED.
-
- [7] ╧N THE MAIN BOARD IS A SMALL METAL BOX, AT LEFT-CENTER, ACTUALLY
- THE ONLY ONE THERE. ╘HE TWO CHIPS TO BE REPLACED ARE LOCATED INSIDE.
- ╟ENTLY PULL UP AND REMOVE THE LID. ╘HE CHIP LOCATIONS ARE MARKED ON
- THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS ╒23 AND ╒25.
-
- [8] ╙EPERATE THE CIRCUIT BOARD FROM THE BOTTOM ╥╞ SHIELD, BY CAREFULLY
- TWISTING THE TABS HOLDING IT TO THE BOARD. ╠EAVE THE BOTTOM ╥╞ SHIELD
- IN THE BOTTOM PLASTIC CASE, AND LIFT OUT THE CIRCUIT BOARD, WITH A
- "LEFT PULL AND UP" ANGLE, SO THAT PLUGS INSIDE PLASTIC BASE SLIP OUT
- BEFORE LIFTING UP.
-
- [9] ╥EMOVE CHIPS ╒23 AND ╒25, BY EITHER A CLIP AND UNSOLDER OR SIMPLE
- UNSOLDER METHOD. ╘HE OLD CHIP PINS MAY BE BENT ON THE BOTTOM, IF SO
- STRAIGHTEN BEFORE PULLING OUT. ┼╪┴═╔╬┼ CAREFULLY FOR DAMAGE!! ╔F ANY
- SEE BELOW BEFORE PROCEEDING!! ╔NSERT ╔├ SOCKETS, BENDING BOTTOM PINS
- FOR A TIGHT FIT, AND SOLDER IN PLACE. ╨LUG IN THE TWO #4464'S NOTING
- THAT THE "DIMPLE" ON THE #4464'S LINE UP WITH THE "DIMPLE" OUTLINE ON
- THE CIRCUIT BOARD.
-
- [10] ╥EASSEMBLE CASING, CAREFULLY REVERSING EACH STEP.
-
- ╧OOOOPS!!
- ---------
- ╘HERE ARE THREE COMMON GOOFS, WHICH SHOULD BE AVOIDED, BUT IF THEY
- OCCUR, HERE ARE THE PATCHES:
-
- [1] ╙OLDER "RAN" AND NOW TWO PIN CONNECTIONS ARE CROSSED. ╧KEY, THIS
- IS EASY, JUST UNSOLDER THE CONNECTION, CAREFULLY SEEING THAT NO OTHER
- PIN CONNECTIONS ARE CROSSED.
-
- [2] ╔N UNSOLDERING THE OLD CHIP, THE PIN CONNECTION GOT BURNED OUT.
- ╧KEY, THIS IS A BIT MORE TRICKY. ┘OU HAVE TO EXAMINE THE CIRCUIT BOARD
- BOTH THE TOP AND BOTTOM SIDES, AND TRACE THE CONNECTION FROM THE BURNED
- OUT PIN HOLE TO WHERE IT GOES. [╔F YOU HAVE A SCHEMATIC, BY ALL MEANS
- USE THIS.] ╘HEN, AFTER INSERTING THE ╔├ SOCKET, USE A "MAGIC MARKER" ON
- THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD TO MARK THE BURNED OUT PIN, AND ITS CONNECTING
- POINT. ╥EMEMBER WHEN WORKING ON THE BOARD BOTTOM, ITS LOCATIONS ARE
- REVERSED, SO DOUBLE CHECK THAT YOU ARE TRACING CONNECTIONS CORRECTLY!!
- ╘AKE A LOOP OF LIGHT WEIGHT WIRE, ALLOW FOR A LOOP LONGER THAN THE
- DISTANCE TO BE CONNECTED, AND SOLDER THE WIRE TO THE TWO POINTS. ╒SE
- ELECTRIC TAPE TO ISOLATE THE TWO SOLDER CONNECTIONS FROM ANY NEAR BY
- PINS, AT BOTH ENDS OF THE WIRE. ╘HEN FLATTEN THIS WIRE TO THE BOTTOM OF
- THE BOARD, GOING AROUND THE "PIN HILLS". ┴ND FINALLY TAKE SEVERAL LONG
- PIECES OF ELECTRICAL TAPE, MAYBE 4 OR 5 INCHES LONG, AND SECURE THE
- WIRE TO THE BOTTOM, SO THAT IT IS FLAT AGAINST THE BOARD.
-
- [3] ╔N REMOVING THE OLD CHIP, PART OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD TRACING TORE.
- ╫ELL, THIS IS PRETTY MUCH LIKE GOOF #2 ABOVE. ═AKE SURE THAT THERE IS
- NO LOOSE TRACINGS TO CAUSE A SHORT. ╘RACE OUT THE CONNECTION, GO TO
- THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD, AND SOLDER IN A WIRE SPLICE CONNECTION AS
- DESCRIBED IN #2.
-
- ┴DDENDUM (═ARCH 1993)
- ----------------------
-
- ╘HIS WAS WRITTEN BEFORE A 64K ╓─├ PLUG-IN BOARD WAS MADE AVAILABLE THRU
- ╙OFTWARE ╙UPPORT ╔NT'L. ╘HE BOARD IS THE EASIER, FASTER, AND MOST
- IMPORTANTLY, SAFER WAY TO UPGRADE.
-
- ╒NLESS YOU ARE COMFORTABLE WITH ELECTRONICS AND SOLDERING IN CLOSE
- QUARTERS THIS PROJECT SHOULD NOT BE UNDERTAKEN. ╒NDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES
- SHOULD THIS BE A "FIRST" SOLDERING PROJECT. ╔T IS ONLY FOR THOSE
- EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRONIC PROJECTS.
-
- OH! ╩UST A REMINDER. ╘HIS UPGRADE IS REQUIRED ONLY FOR THOSE WITH OLD
- STYLE FLAT ├128'S. ┴LL ├128─'S HAVE THIS UPGRADE PRE-INSTALLED.
- _____________
- _____________
- ╚OWARD ╚ERMAN
- 03/11/93
-