Usenet 1994 October/usenetsourcesnewsgroupsinfomagicoctober1994disk1.iso/answers/cats-faq/part4

Internet Message Format | 1994-10-09 | 40.5 KB

Path: bloom-beacon.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!faqserv
From: [e-mail] (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.cats,rec.answers,news.answers
Subject: rec.pets.cats FAQ (part 4/4)
Supersedes: <cats-faq/[e-mail]>
Followup-To: poster
Date: 8 Oct 1994 16:06:27 GMT
Organization: Disorganized in Orange County, CA
Lines: 965
Sender: tittle
Approved: [e-mail]
Expires: 11 Nov 1994 16:05:34 GMT
Message-ID: <cats-faq/[e-mail]>
References: <cats-faq/[e-mail]>
Reply-To: [e-mail]
NNTP-Posting-Host: bloom-picayune.mit.edu
X-Last-Updated: 1994/06/14
Originator: [e-mail]
Xref: bloom-beacon.mit.edu rec.pets.cats:49514 rec.answers:7726 news.answers:26983

Archive-name: cats-faq/part4
Last-modified: 27 May 1994
Periodicity: 20 days

This is the fourth part of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) List
for rec.pets.cats.  It is posted every twenty days: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

Copies of this FAQ may be obtained by anonymous ftp to rtfm.mit.edu
under /pub/usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/*.  Or send email to
[e-mail] with

send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part1
send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part2
send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part3
send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part4

in the body of the message to have all parts emailed to you (leave the
subject line empty).



I.  Cat Genetics and Coloring.

A cat with patches of red and black is a tortoiseshell, or 'tortie'.
Add white, and you get a calico.  A tortoiseshell that is homozygous
for the recessive 'dilution' gene is referred to as a blue-cream, and
that's what color it is: patches of soft grey and cream.  This is the
same gene that turns black cats 'blue' (grey), and red cats cream.  A
blue-cream and white is generally referred to in the cat world as a
dilute calico.  The pattern of black/red or blue/cream can either be
in big dramatic patches, brindling, or some of both.  Having more
white seems to encourage the formation of the big patches.

Red in cats is a sex-linked color, carried on the X gene.  Therefore,
a male cat whose X carries red will be a red tabby.  A female cat who
carries one red and one non-red X will be a patched tabby, a
tortoiseshell, or a calico (if she also has the dominant gene for
white markings).  A female cat who is homozygous for red (has it on
both X genes) will be a red tabby.  This is why you see more male red
tabbies than females.  This is ALSO why male calicos are so rare: you
have to have two X genes to be a calico.  Male calicos have genetic
aberrations of various sorts, of which XXY is most common.  While they
are most commonly sterile, there *are* documented cases of fertile
male calicos.  However, the generalization that "all calicos/torties
are female" is true 99.999 percent of the time.

The reason red females are "uncommon" is that, statistically, the
number of red males is equal to the number of tortoiseshell/calico,
patched tabby, AND red females.  Red males and tortie/calico/patched
tabby females can be produced when only ONE parent has the red gene,
but to produce a red female, you must cross a red male with a
red/tortie/calico/patched tabby female.  THAT is why red females are
uncommon.  But not "impossible", in the sense that a male calico is
"impossible."

A "solid red" cat will always display the tabby pattern (although it
may be very slight or even undetectable without brushing the fur back
to check).  There's another gene at work which controls "agoutiness"
(whether individual hairs are banded or solid).  Cats who are
non-agouti will not generally display the tabby pattern, except in red
areas.  The non-agouti gene does not affect phaeomelanin, the red
pigment, so red cats always show their tabby pattern.

The red gene "overrides" the solid gene, making the tabby pattern
visible again.  (And on other solid colors, you can sometimes notice
the underlying stripes, especially in strong light.)  Solid red cats
at cat shows MAY or MAY NOT be genetically solid--they are (generally
longhairs) bred for the "blurring" of the tabby pattern, producing a
cat that doesn't have dramatic markings.

Solid        Tabby
-----        -----
black        brown tabby
blue        blue tabby
red        red tabby
cream        cream tabby
chocolate    chocolate tabby
cinnamon    cinnamon tabby
fawn        fawn tabby

The colors a calico will produce depend on the color of the sire.  But
at minimum, she can produce red and non-red sons, and patched
tabby/tortoiseshell/calico daughters, as well as non-red daughters.
Whether she will produce tabbies or not depends on the genetic makeup
of the sire.  And *any* of the kittens could have white markings, or
not.

Basic cat colors:

Color            Dilute form
-----            -----------
black            blue (a grey color)
chocolate        lilac (a pale pinkish-grey)
(chocolate is a recessive gene which changes black to brown)
cinnamon        fawn (a very pale pinkish-tan)
(a light reddish brown, found mostly in Siamese and Abyssinians)

red            cream (ranges from yellowish to tannish or buff)
(red and cream are sex-linked, on the X gene, and mask the previous
colors.  Actually, there's a separate shade of red/cream to match each
of the previous colors, but it's hard to tell them apart, unless you're
dealing with a tortoiseshell or patched tabby, which has the non-red
areas to give you a hint.)

white
(Here we refer to the dominant form, which is masking over the previous
colors.  It has no dilution.)

Everything else is a modifier!

Modifier            Dominant/Recessive
--------            ------------------
white spotting (paws, etc)    dominant
polydactyly (extra toes)    dominant
manx (taillessness)        dominant
silver (inhibits hair color at roots)    dominant
white locketing (small spots on chest and/or groin) recessive
dilution (black->blue)        recessive
chocolate dilution        recessive
cinnamon dilution        recessive
bobtail (partial taillessness)    recessive
solid (no tabby markings)    recessive
long hair            recessive

Some genes are incompletely dominant to each other, and are part of a
series.  For example, the siamese/burmese genes, from most to least
colored:

Burmese/Siamese/blue-eyed white/pink-eyed white (albino)

The coloring of the Burmese and the points of the Siamese is
temperature sensitive.  The cooler extremities of the Siamese are
darker; a Burmese that has had a fever may grow in lighter fur for a
while!  Such changes are usually temporary, but may take some time to
grow out.

All cats (even those homozygous for solid) have a tabby pattern.  There
are different tabby patterns, from most to least dominant:

Mackerel/Classic/Ticked.  The spotted tabby pattern is thought to be a
variant of the Mackerel pattern, not genetically distinct, but the
jury is not yet in.

Smokes and Chinchillas.  This is the combination of the expression of
the silver gene (a dominant), and the gene for solid color (a
recessive).  Other modifiers account for whether the cat is a referred
to as a smoke, a shaded, or a chinchilla.  From most to least colored:
a "smoke" has white roots, a "shaded" has about half and half white
and color along the length of the hair, and a "chinchilla" has color
only on the very tips of the hair.  If the cat is a tabby instead of a
solid color, that is a silver tabby.  And if the base color is not
black, that would be added to the name as well: blue-cream smoke, red
silver tabby, etc.

J.  Cat Safety in the House.

Besides some of the more obvious things like electrical cords, here
are some other things to watch out for:

  * Recliner chairs.  Many cats will go underneath these chairs as a
    hiding or resting place.  Cats that are caught in the mechanism
    when the chair is opened or closed can be seriously injured or
    killed.

  * The dryer.  Many cats find the small enclosed space with warm
    clothing especially inviting.  Check your dryer before turning it
    on; your cat can be killed this way.  A little aversion therapy:
    if you see your cat slip in, close the door and bang on the top of
    the dryer for a few seconds.  Let the cat back out.

  * Drapery and blind cords.  Most cats love to play with the cords;
    unfortunately it is easy for cats to be entangled and
    strangulated.  Coil the cords up to the top of the window and pin
    it there with a clothes pin or clip.

  * Bags with handles.  Cats can become stuck in the handles and
    panic.  If this happens when you are not at home, the cat may
    injure or kill itself.  Keep such bags out of reach of the cats,
    or cut their handles off.

  * Stove tops.  Gas or electrical stoves can present problems.  One
    preventive measure is to obtain burner covers, available for both
    kinds.  Most cats will stay away from anything that is actively
    hot, but you may wish to train them away from the stove by
    spraying with water, or trying other measures used to keep cats
    off the counters.

K.  Pet Identification

Every cat should wear ID tags. A "strangleproof" or "breakaway" cat
collar with elastic section is safest; tags attached with small
keyrings won't fall off and get lost.

When a kitten gets a new collar, it should be put on tighter than
usual until she/he gets used to it.  You should be able to slip 1 or 2
fingers under the collar, but it shouldn't be loose enough for the
kitten to get its jaw hooked.  Of course, this means the kitten also
won't be able to get the collar over its head if it gets caught on
something, so you need to supervise more closely - especially outside.
Kittens grow fast, so you need to check the fit often.  Once the kitty
is quite used to the collar and no longer tries to play with it or get
it off, you can loosen it up a bit.  It usually doesn't take very long
for a kitten to get used to a collar.

Commonest way to get the tag: mail order services that advertise at
pet shops and vet waiting rooms.  Prices go from $3 to $8 per tag.
The cat's name is the least important thing on the tag.  The most
important is your name and phone number.  Home address and work number
are desirable.  Some areas offer cat licensing; consider it as another
way of getting a tag.  Another alternative is to write the name and
phone number on a flea collar or on a cloth collar.  Don't forget to
update the information on the tag when you move!  Tabby Tags offer a
way to attach information to the cat's collar without dangling tags.
Inquire at Tabby Tags, 4546 El Camino Real, B-10, Suite 340, Los
Altos, CA 94022

ID's should be worn for the following reasons:
  * In case the cat, even an indoors one, gets lost or strays.
  * If your cat is injured outside and a kind stranger takes it to the
    vet, the vet is more likely to treat the cat if it has tags.
  * People won't think your cat is a stray and take it home and keep it.
  * Let your neighbors know whose cat is whose, and what their names are.

You can get your cat tattooed in the ear or the leg and register the
tattoo number with a national registry.  The basic problem with this
approach is that few people will look for a tattoo and know where to
call.  Vets, though, usually know about this.  Microchips are being
increasingly used, but you need a scanner to be able to read this
(although vets and animal shelters will check for these).

If you have found a stray cat that you are not sure is really stray,
put a plastic collar on it and write your phone number and any
message on it.  If it has an owner, the owner may call you or at
least remove the collar.


L.  Do All Cats Purr?

Most domestic cats purr.  But do the big ones?  Most people say not,
but from _The Big Cat_:

  "Assertions have been widely made that the roaring cats above are
  not able to purr, assertions that have now been disproven.  George
  B. Schaller reports purring in the lion, tiger, and leopard, as well
  as in the cheetah, but remarks that in the lion the sound is
  produced only during exhalation and appears to be a much less common
  vocalization than in the domestic cat [160].  Snow leopards purr,
  like the house cat, during both exhalation and inhalation [60].
  Others have reported that tame, young adult tigers, leopards,
  jaguars, and cheetahs purr in response to petting.  Finally, purring
  has even been reported in five species of viverrids, as well as
  suckling black bear cubs and nursing spotted hyenas [36]. These
  observations are interesting when compared with Gustave Peters'
  comment that there is still some question about the occurrence of
  purring, in a strictly defined sense, in the wild cats [178].  He
  questions whether the noise identified as a purr from the big cats
  is pthe same in detail and manner of production as the purr of a
  domestic cat.  Of the seven large cats he studied (he did not
  consider the cheetah), he observed true purring only in the puma,
  but considered it probable that snow leopards and clouoded leopards
  also purr.  Thus there is still some doubt about the distribution of
  the ability to purr among the wild cats."

  [36] Ewer, R. F. 1973. THE CARNIVORES.  Ithaca, NY: Cornell
       University Press.

  [60] Hemmer, H. 1972. UNCIA UNCIA.  MAMMALIAN SPECIES No. 20, 5 pp.

  [160] Schaller, G. B. 1972.  THE SERENGETI LION.  Chicago:
    University of Chicago Press.

  [178] Stuart-Fox, D. T. 1979.  MACAN: THE BALINESE TIGER. _Bali_Post_
    (English edition) July 23, 1979, pp. 12-13.

M.  Other Cats in the Cat Family.

Other cats in the cat family are not suitable as domestic cats.
Generally, they are too big, strong, and destructive.  In addition
many states have strict regulations about keeping wild animals as
pets.  It also appears cruel to have to defang and declaw these
animals to make them safe.

If you have the overwhelming urge to be around wild animals, your best
bet is your local zoo.  Many zoos have volunteer docent programs and
you will not only be able to spend time with the various animals, but
also learn a lot about them and have the opportunity to educate the
public while conducting tours or participating in other public
relations programs.

N.  Clever Hiding Places At Home.

Cats are extremely good at finding hiding places.  If your cat is
missing, but you're sure it hasn't gotten outside, check these places:

  * All drawers, even the ones that are too small for your cat and
    haven't been opened in the last hundred years (they can get behind
    the dresser, underneath the partition and climb up the back of the
    drawers).
  * In and around file cabinets.
  * Inside suitcases.
  * Behind the books in a bookcase.
  * Boxsprings and mattresses: if there is a small hole or tear in the
    lining, they can climb in and be nearly undetectable.
  * Anywhere they might be able to get into walls/floors/ceiling (eg,
    forced-air ducts, plumbing, etc).
  * Behind and under appliances, such as the refrigerater or stove.
  * All cabinets; cats can often open them and slip inside.
  * Inside the refrigerator (this can happen!).
  * Closets, even closed ones.
  * Inside reclining chairs.  They often have a ledge that supports
    the footrest when its out, so you have to look inside it, not just
    check for kitty paws on the floor under it.

Cats can squeeze themselves into spots you'd never think they'd fit,
so don't overlook any spots that you think are "too small."

O.  Invisible Fences.

Used most often with dogs, there are some invisible fence systems
made for cats.  These systems use a special collar, a buried wire,
and a beep tone to warn the cats they are approaching the boundary
(indicated by the wire).  A mild shock, adjustable in intensity, is
administered if the cat continues to approach after the warning beep.
According to people who have used it, it works fairly well -- the
cats learn quickly to avoid it.  It is NOT recommended that the cats
be left unsupervised on this system for long periods of time.  The
people who use this system generally are outside with the cats as
well; they simply don't have to worry about chasing after the cat.
Note that this system will not prevent your neighbor's cat from
coming into the yard unless it has a collar too!

P.  Non-Poisonous Plants.

So what plants can cats nibble on with abandon?

To start with, you can assume anything with square stems (in
cross-section) and opposite leaves is OK.  That's the hallmark of the
mint family, which includes catnip, _Nepeta_ and _Coleus_.  Catnip
can be grown in a bright window in the winter, but the cats may knock
it off the sill.  Coleus is easy, and kinda bright and cheerful with
its colored leaves.  Swedish Ivy, _Plectranthus_, is also in this
family and incredibly easy to grow.  Good hanging basket plant.
Tolerates kitty-nibbles well.

Tulips are OK, daffodils and lily of the valley are not.

Miniature roses.

Cyclamens, the genus _Cyclamen_, seem to be OK.

African violet, _Saintpaulia_; Hanging African Violet (=Flame Violet),
_Episcia_; gloxinia, _Sinningia_; goldfish plant, _Hypoestes_; and
lipstick vine, _Aeschynanthus_ are all members of the african violet
family, the Gesneriaceae.

All the cacti are fine -- but not all succulents are cactus.  Make
sure it has spines like a prickly pear or an old-man cactus.  There
are some look-alike foolers that are not good to eat! (But they don't
have spines).  (One cactus, _Lophophora_ (peyote) will get you
arrested.)

Airplane plant, also called spider plant, _Chlorophytum_, is pretty
commonly available and easy to grow.  They come in solid green or
green and white striped leaves, usually grown in hanging baskets.

Wax begonias, _Begonia semperflorens_ are easy and non-toxic.  These
are the little begonias you see in shady areas outside now in the
north; in the southern states, they're often grown as winter outdoor
plants.  The other begonia species are OK too, but tougher to grow.

Sweet potatoes, _Ipomoea_, if you can find some that haven't been
treated to prevent sprouting!  Looks like common philodendron at
first glance.

Shrimp plant, _Beleperone guttata_.

Prayer plant, _Maranta_ (needs humidity).

Burn plant, _Aloe vera_.

Grape ivy, _Cissus_  (several different leaf shapes).

Asparagus fern, _Asparagus_ (several species).

If you've got the humidity, any of the true ferns are OK, including
maidenhair, _Adaiantum_, Boston fern (lots of variants!)
_Nephrolepis_, Victorian Table Fern, _Pteris_...

Wandering jew, _Zebrina_, and its close relatives that are often called
"Moses in the boat" -- the flowers are in a pair of boat-shaped bracts.

Impatiens, or patience plant, _Impatiens_.

Common geranium, _Pelargonium_, in any of the many leaf forms and scents.

AVOID anything with a milky juice or colored sap.  Almost guaranteed
toxic (wild lettuce and dandelion are the two major exceptions).

Q.  Finding A Lost Cat.

Things to try when the cat is lost outside.

  * Make up flyers with picture(s) and description.  Rubberband them
    to the doors of the houses in the immediate area.  Use a radius
    that it twice as far as your cat has wandered before.
  * Take the flyers to local vets, feed stores, and animal shelters,
    and any other likely place, like the laundromat or the local Y.
  * If there are other cities close, don't forget their shelters.
    Check with the shelters that you know about to see if there are
    others that you don't know about.
  * Flier copies on trees/telephone poles within an extended radius
    ( 2-3 miles ).
  * Check the local streets every day and and ask the garbage men and
    mailmen for the neighborhood if they've seen anything.
  * Ad in the paper
  * Regular checks of the animal shelters near you.
  * Register with Pet-Track
  * Check out any "closed" spaces : were you in the attic ?  the shed ?
    could she have gotten into the neighbor's garage ?
  * Long walks through the neighbor, calling the cat.  Look carefully,
    as the cat may be hiding, lost, and unwilling or too scared to move.
  * Leave used articles of the cat's favorite person's laundry outside
    to let the cat know that this is "home" : if the previous step
    above didn't convince your neighbors that you were weird, nailing
    your dirty socks and teeshirts to the fence definately will.  A
    pile of the kitty's used litter might also let the cat know this
    is *it*.
  * As soon as you're sure that the cat is lost, go for a long
    barefoot walk : out and back, out and back, out and back, to leave
    scent trails leading to home.
  * Contact relevant breed organizations, if applicable.
  * Visualize the cat returning.  Light candles to the deit(y,ies} of
    choice.
  * Rent a humane trap and bait it with the cat's favorite foodstuff.
    You may wind up trapping other peoples' pets or stray wild
    animals, but one poster caught their own lost and terrified cat.
  * Don't give up right away: one person had success running an ad for
    4 weeks.
  * Collar and tag the rest of the wanna-be escape artists, even if
    you don't think it could ever happen to them.  Your cats may be
    indoor only, but what would happen if the screen came out on a
    sunny day?
  * Under the heading of "be prepared," have multiple copies of a good
    color photo of your cat on hand.  You will be able to make -- and
    distribute -- posters that much more quickly.
  * If your neighborhood has a population of elementary school
    children, place posters at their school.  Kids seem to be acutely
    aware of the animals they encounter, and they tend to be out and
    about in the neighborhood.  Offering a reward might even mobilize
    a small army of searchers.

R.  Cat Static.

During winter or other dry seasons, cats may pick up static and
discharge it every time you pet them.  One solution is to rub them
with a fabric softener sheet.  The chemicals in fabric softener are
not a problem for cats, although some of the more heavily-scented ones
may be objectionable to the cat.

Some people invest in humidifiers for the house, and that reduces the
static in a cat's fur as well.

S.  Preparing Food for your Cat.

The following recipes are extracted from D.S. Kronfeld, 1986.
Therapeutic diets for dogs and cats including a simple system of
recipes.  Tijdschrift voor diergeneeskunde 111 (suppl. 1) 37s-41s.

1.  Basic recipe for cat maintenance diet:

70 g dry white rice (1/3 c)
140 g 80% lean hamburger (2/3 c)
30g beef liver (1/8 c)
11 g bone meal (1 tbsp)
5 g corn oil (2 tsp)
2 g iodized salt (1/2 tsp)

    Combine rice, 2/3 c water, bone meal, salt, and corn oil.
Simmer about 20 min.  Add meat and beef liver; simmer for 10 minutes.
Cool before serving.  Can be frozen or refrigerated for several days.
    Yield: 800 kcal metabolizable energy; 30% protein, %ME.  (1.3%
calcium, 1.1% phosphorus, 0.5% potassium, 0.45% sodium, 0.15%
magnesium, calculated on a dry matter basis)

2.  Cats at risk of FUS:

    Replace bone meal with 3 g (2 tsp) calcium carbonate or 1/2
tsp ground limestone (NOT dolomite, which is rich in Mg).  This lowers
calcium from 1.3% to 0.7%, phosphorus from 1.1 to 0.3%, magnesium from
0.15% to 0.08%.  Calcium carbonate or limestone does not blend well;
you may prefer to give this in pill or capsule form.  Salt can be
increased to 1 tsp to promote water intake, and 1/4 to 1/2 tsp
ammonium chloride can be added as a urinary acidifier.

3.  Kidney disease patients:

    Substitute 40-50% fat hamburger (50-60% lean) for regular
hamburger to lower protein content to 13%.  For a protein content of
11%, substitute 1 medium-large egg (55g) and 1 Tbsp chicken fat (15 g)
for meat.  Animals in renal failure are anorexic, and maintaining
adequate calorie intake may be one of the most important things in
their therapy.

4.  Heart failure:

    Without salt, the "regular recipe" has 0.05% sodium (compares
to 0.03% in special canned "heart diets" and 0.05% in the dry form).
These levels are suitable for animals in end-stage heart failure; for
1st and 2nd stage chronic heart failure, 0.25% sodium is recommended
(use 1/4 tsp salt in the basic recipe instead of 1/2 tsp).  Or use 1/2
tsp "lite salt" (50-50 sodium chloride and potassium chloride) to
reduce sodium to 0.25% and raise potassium from 0.5% to 0.7%.  This
may be desirable if a potassium-robbing diuretic is being used, and
especially if digitalis is also prescribed, since digitalis is more
toxic in animals low in potassium.  If salt is entirely left out of
the diet, 1/4 tsp potassium chloride may be included to keep the
animal from becoming potassium deficient.

5.  Low fat diet :

For non-specific gastrointestinal problems, malabsorption, osmotic
diarrhea, pancreatitis, hepatic lipidosis, lymphangiectasis, and
portocaval shunts.

    To reduce fat levels, substitute one of the following for the
70 g (2.5 oz)of 80% lean hamburger:

100 g (3.5 oz) 90% lean meat      10% fat
120 g (4.3 oz) egg                12% fat
180 g (6.3 oz) heart               4% fat
230 g (8.2 oz) cottage cheese      1% fat
400 g (14.4 oz) egg white, COOKED  0% fat

    Substitute 1 tsp safflower oil for 2 tsp corn oil.  In extreme
cases, reduce safflower oil to 1/2 tsp., or substitute MCT (medium
chain triglyceride)

6.  Low fat, high fiber diet:

For geriatric animals, chronic enteritis or pancreatitis.

1/2 c dry white rice
1/3 c 90% lean hamburger
1/3 c wheat bran
2 Tbsp beef liver
1 Tbsp bone meal
2 tsp corn oil
1/2 tsp iodized salt
(this diet has only 700 calories, compared to 800 for the basal diet).

    If the bran is too irritating to the intestines, replace all
or part of the bran with alpha cellulose (e.g. Solka Floc, from Brown
& Co, Berlin, New Hampshire, USA).  This will greatly decrease the
available calories also.

7.  Reducing diet

1/3 c dry white rice
1/3 c 90% lean hamburger
2/3 c wheat bran
2 Tbsp beef liver
1 Tbsp bone meal
2 tsp corn oil
1/2 tsp iodized salt

    This diet has only 600 cal compared to 800 calories of the
basal diet.

8.  Hypoallergenic diet

Substitute hamburger, ground mutton or lamb, pork, turkey, chicken, or
fish for the meat that had been normally consumed.  Substitute chicken
or turkey liver for beef liver.

9.  Low purine diet

Substitute a comprehensive trace mineral and vitamin tablet that
contains vitamin B-12 for liver in base diet.  Replace meat with 1 or
2 eggs blended in 1/4 to 1/2 c cows milk.  Carrots or tomatoes can be
blended in.  This may reduce protein content, but increase acceptance.
Do not add other vegetables.

Kay's comments:

I tried the recipes above on my 6 cats (not picky eaters!)  They
eagerly accepted the basic diet, but were not especially fond of the
reducing diet... adding a tsp of instant minced onion seemed to
improve the acceptance, as did a little catnip mixed in.

Most cats should do well with the basic diet.  If you make major changes
(such as the low fat or reducing versions), you may also want to make up
some basic diet and gradually shift the cat from basic to special diet.


IX.  RESOURCES

A. Electronic Mailing Lists.

There is a electronic mailing lists for vets, vet students and people
otherwise involved with the veterinary profession.  Send email
inquiries to [e-mail] for details.

The Internet Vet Column is available to all interested parties.  The
concept is similar to that of "Dear Abbey": questions are sent in, and
several are selected for answers.  The column is mailed out once a
week.  To subscribe, send email to [e-mail] with
subscribe internet-vet-column your-email-address
in the body of the message.  To send questions, send them to
[e-mail].  The column IS NOT a mailing list.  You will
not get any mail from this list other than the weekly column.  The
majority of the questions are expected to be about dogs and cats,
although other domestic and exotic animals have not been ruled out.
Jeff Parke, DVM is the veterinarian answering the questions; Cindy
Tittle Moore ([e-mail]) the list owner.  Both Jeff and Cindy
receive email queries sent to [e-mail].

There is a feline-l mailing list.  To subscribe, send email to
[e-mail] with
subscribe FELINE-L your name
in the body of the message, where "your name" is your own name, not
a login or email address.  This is for general interest in domestic
cats.

The cat fanciers mailing list is for those seriously interested in the
breeding and showing of cats.  Drop an inquiry to Orca Starbuck at
[e-mail] for more information about the group.

A mailing list for non-domestic cats has been recently created.  This
is [e-mail] (don't confuse this with feline-l, for domestic
cats).  Subscribe by sending email to [e-mail] with
subscribe FELINES-L your name
in the body of the message where "your name" is your own name, not
your login or email address.  The list owner is
[e-mail] (Tobias Koehler)


B. Literary.

1. Jellicle Cats

This poem is often requested, sometimes indirectly when people ask
"what is a jellicle cat?"  This is a portion of T.S.  Eliot's poem for
your edification.  The entire poem is not quoted due to copyright
laws and space considerations.

THE SONG OF THE JELLICLES
...
Jellicle Cats are black and white,
Jellicle Cats are rather small;
Jellicle Cats are merry and bright,
And pleasant to hear when they caterwaul.
Jellicle Cats have cheerful faces,
Jellicle Cats have bright black eyes;
They like to practise their airs and graces
And wait for the Jellicle Moon to rise.
...
                      ---T. S. Eliot
                         "Old Possum's Book of Practical Cats"

2.  The "mousies" Poem

Another oft-requested poem.

Love to eat them mousies
Mousie's what I love to eat.
Bite they little heads off...
Nibble on they tiny feet.   -- B. Kliban

C.  Books.

_Other Cats_, Stone Street Press, 1 Stone St., S.1., NY 10304 USA
(212-447-1436).
  A handmade boxed set of cat poems and stories from all over the world.

Bard, E.M.: _The Cat IQ Test_.  Doubleday, 1980.
  Gives you various ways to evaluate the intelligence of your cat.

Becker, Suzy: _All I Need to Know I Learned from my Cat_.  Workman
Publishing, c1990.
  Humorous book, illustrated by the author.

Camuti, Dr. Louis J.  _All My Patients are Under the Bed_, with
Marilyn and Haskel Frankel; Simon and Schuster, NY ISBN 0-671-55450-6.
  Entertaining descriptions of a house-call cat veterinarian's
  experiences.

Caras, Roger.  _Roger Caras' Treasury of Great Cat Stories_.
  Includes short stories written by many authors, including, Mark
  Twain, Rudyard Kipling, Edgar Allan Poe, etc.

Carlson, Delbert G. DVM and James M. Giffin, MD: _Cat Owner's Home
Veterinary Handbook_. Howell Book House, NY ISBN 0-87605-814-4.
  Emergencies, diseases, biology, medications, symptoms.  An excellent
  home-vet reference for the concerned cat-owner.

Corey, Paul: _Do Cats Think?_.  Castle Publishers, c1977.
  Deals with cat communication and learning.  Debunks many myths:
  neutered males do not become fat and lazy, a well-fed cat is the
  best hunter, cats can be trained, and they do give and receive
  affection.

Edney, A.T.B, ed. _The Waltham Book of Dog and Cat Nutrition_. Second
edition.  Pergamon Press, 1988. ISBN: 0-08-035729-6 (flexicover).

Fogle, Bruce. _The Cat's Mind_. Pelham Books, 1991. ISBN 0-7207-1996-8.

Fox, Michael W. _Supercat: Raising the Perfect Feline Companion_.
  Topics include cat communication, decoding cat behavior, training
  your cat, IQ tests.

Frazier, Anitra with Norma Ecktroate. _The New Natural Cat: A
Complete Guide for Finicky Owners_.  1990.
  Overview of the cat and its habits, strong holistic approach, good
  recipies.

Holland, Barbara. _Secrets of the Cat_.
  Sensible, sensitive and entertaining.

Hollander, Nicole.  _Everything Here is Mine: Sylvia's Unhelpful Guide
to Cat Behavior_.
  A collection of Sylvia comics featuring her cats.  Hilarious.

Kliban, B:  _Cat_.  Workman Publishing Co., NY, 1975.  ISBN 0-911104-54-2.
  Kliban had an exceptional understanding of cats, and this cartoon
  book is well worth acquiring.

Loeb, Paul and Josephine Banks: _You CAN Train Your Cat_.
  A valuable compendium of information on how to train your cat.

McHattie, Grace.  _The Cat Lover's Dictionary_.
  Cat owners and lovers will find everything they need to know to
  maintain the health and happiness of their pet.  Thoroughly
  assesses the characteristics of over 30 breeds, describing ailments
  and problems and matching cat types with owner life-styles.  Color
  photos.

Moyes, Patricia: _How To Talk To Your Cat_.  Henry Holt Publishing.
  Includes some folklore but also lots of useful information and
  suggestions for how to develop a real conversational rapport with
  your cat.

Mu:ller, Ulrike. _The New Cat Handbook_, translated from the German
_Das Neue Katzenbuch_ by Rita and Robert Kineber; Barron's Educational
Series, Inc., NY ISBN 0-8120-2922-4.
  Sections on: choosing a cat; care & feeding; health; breeding;
  showing; cat "language" & behavior.

Neff, Nancy A., forward by Roger Caras, paintings by Guy Coheleach.
_The Big Cats_.  Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York, 1982.  ISBN: 0-8109-0710-0.
  This is a wonderful book, although it may no longer be in print, and
  is probably expensive if it is.  It's a collection of the most
  beautiful artwork I've ever seen of the big cats, accompanied by
  some of the more scholarly, and WELL-REFERENCED text I've come
  across.  It's actually a bit of a shock to see such scholarly text
  with such incredible art...I expected the usual, "Oh, aren't they
  wonderful," dreck, so this was a real surprise.  Both the text and
  the paintings are reproduced on 40 or 50 pound glossy stock, so each
  page is heavier than the cover of most paperbacks.

Neville, Peter.  _Do Cats Need Shrinks?_.  Contemporary Books. 1991.
ISBN 0-8092-3935-3.
  He is a British pet psychologist to whom vets refer their problem
  cases.  (American readers should check the glossary at the back of
  the book, to help translate terms like "moggy".)  He gives very good
  explanations of why cats do things, and how to work within their way
  of thinking to convince them to do otherwise.

Peden, Barbara Lynn.  _Dogs & Cats Go Vegetarian_. Harbingers of a New
Age, publisher, 12100 Brighton Street, Hayden Lake, ID 83835 USA; Katz
Go Vegan, publisher, Box 161, 7 Battle Road, St. Leonards-on-Sea, East
Sussex, TN37 7AA, UK.  ISBN 0-941391-01-6.
  Discusses the develpment of Vegecat supplement, a source of taurine
  derived from petroleum.

Robinson, F. _Cat Genetics for Breeders_.
  For people seriously interested in how genetics work in cats.

Siegal, Mordecai, ed. _The Cornell Book of Cats_ (by the faculty and
staff of Cornell Feline Health Center, Cornell University; Villard
Books, New York, 1989).
  This is an excellent reference book for the owner who wants detailed
  medical information. It is more sophisticated than popular/consumer
  type books; it is more like a veterinary textbook, but you don't
  have to be a vet to understand the material.

Siegal, Mordecai, ed. _Simon & Schuster's Guide to Cats_.  Originally
in Spanish, Arnoldo Mondadori.  Fireside Book, Simon & Schuster.
1983, ISBN: 0-671-49170-9.

Stephens, Gloria. _Legacy of the Cat_ (photography by Tetsu Yamazaki,
San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1989, ISBN 0-87701-728-X/0-87701-695
pbk).
  Dense cat genetics information w/pictures.  37 breeds then described.

Taylor, David. _You and Your Cat_.
  Lots of useful information.  A (slightly incomplete) breed
  summary complete with color pictures.  A trouble-shooting guide
  for sick cats.

Tellington-Jones, Linda, with Sybil Taylor.  _The Tellington Touch:
A Breakthrough Technique to Train and Care for Your Favorite Animal_.
Viking Penguin.  1992.  ISBN 0-670-82578-6.
  Some of what Linda does is clearly helpful in dealing with problem
  dogs and cats, but there are parts of her presentation of her ideas
  that may turn people off because they seem to be a little too
  far out of the mainstream.  Good massage tips.

Thies, Dagmar. _Cat Care_.  TFH Publications, 1989.  ISBN 0-86622-776-8.

Turner, Dennis C. and Paterick Bateson, eds: _The Domestic Cat: The
Biology of its Behaviour_.  Cambridge (UK) University Press, 1988.

Wright, Michael and Sally Walters, eds. _The Book of the Cat_ (New
York: Summit Books (Pan Books, London), 1980, ISBN
0-671-44753-X/0-671-41624-3 pbk).
  Includes a good discussion of genetics and cat breeds.  Lots of
  detail, but very accessible, a good way to get started once you're
  past the first stage of learning about cats.

White and Evans. _The Catopedia_. Henson 1986(?).

D.  Articles.

August, John R., 1989.  Preventative Health Care and Infectious Disease
Control, pp.  391-404 in Sherding, Robert H. (ed) The Cat: Diseases
and Clinical Management, v1.  Churchill-Livingstone Inc, NY.

Barlough, JE and CA Stoddart.  Feline Coronaviruses: Interpretation of
Lab- oratory findings and Serologic Tests.  pp. 557-561 _in_ August,
J.R. (ed) 1991.  Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine.  WB
Saunders Co., Philadelphia.  ISBN 0-7216-2226-7

Booth, Dawn M.  Antiviral Therapy.  pp. 577-582  _in_  August, J.R.
(ed)  1991.  Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine.  WB Saunders
Co., Philadelphia.  ISBN 0-7216-2226-7

Burrows, Colin F.  1991.  _Diarrhea in kittens and young cats_.  pp.
415-418 IN J.R. August.  Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine. WB
Saunders Co., Philadelphia.

Lewis, Ricki.  1988.  "The cat's meow (taurine deficiency causes eye
and heart problems)."  _Health_ (Ny, NY) 20:18, March 1988.
  Probably more popular citation on taurine in cats diets.

Pedersen, N.C.  Common Infectious Diseases of Multiple-Cat
Environments pp. 163-288 _in_ Pedersen, Niels C.(ed) 1991.  Feline
Husbandry: Diseases and manangement of the multiple cat environment.
American Veterinary Publications, Inc.  Goleta, CA.  ISBN
0-939674-29-7

Pion, PD; MD Kittleson and QR Rogers.  1987.  "Myocardial Failure in
cats associated with low plasma taurine: a reversible cardiomyopathy."
_Science_ 237:764-768.  14 Aug 1987.
  Note: This one is rather technical.

Povey, R. Charles.  1985.  Infectious diseases of Cats: A clinical
handbook.  Centaur Press, Guelph, Ontario C85-098602-8

Stoddart, Cheryl A. and Jeffrey E. Barlough.  Feline Coronaviruses:
Spectrum of Virus Strains and Clinical Manifestations.  pp. 551-556
_in_ August, J.R. (ed) 1991.  Consultations in Feline Internal
Medicine.  WB Saunders Co., Philadelphia.  ISBN 0-7216-2226-7

Weiss, Richard C.  Feline Infectious Peritonitis and other
Coronaviruses.  pp. 333-356 _in_ Sherding, Robert G. 1989.  The Cat:
Diseases and Clinical Management.  Churchill-Livingstone, New York.
ISBN 0-443-08461-0

E.  Catalogues.

Cats, Cats, and More Cats
2 Greycourt Ave, PO Box 560,
Chester, NY, 10918
  Fast shipping, donates percentage to animal causes.

Cat Claws, Inc.
P.O. Box 1774
Des Plaines, IL   60018
Phone: [phone]
FAX:   [phone]
  Cardboard scratching posts, flea remedies/combs, toys, cat trees.

Dad's Cat Action Toy Shop
c/o SunRae Products P.O. Box 84
Redwood City, CA 94064.
  They have what they call a "Cat'alog" and also a Hall of Fame your cat
  can join (you receive a newsletter "The CAT-Aerobics Exercise Mews."

Doctors Foster & Smith
2253 Air Park Road
Rhinelander, WI  54501-0100
tel: [phone]
  Canine, feline, and equine vaccines, medications, and grooming
  preparations.  Cat toys, beds, furniture, collars.  Most of the
  other stuff is for dogs.

Evolution K-9/Feline Vegetarian Dog/Cat Foods
Dr. Eric Weisman & Assoc.
815 S. Robert St.
St. Paul, MN  55107
[phone]
[phone]

Master Animal Care
Lake Road
P.O. Box 3333
Mountaintop, PA  18707-0330
tel: [phone]
  For cats and dogs--fold-down cages, cat doors (10 different types),
  vaccines and syringes (limited selection), lots of grooming
  supplies, dog breed books, gift items for people.

Pedigrees
1989 Transit Way
Box 905
Brockport, NY  14420-0905
tel: [phone]
  This is RC Steele under another name -- no $50 minimum order
  requirement & higher prices.  Ask for "The Pet Catalog"--this is
  stuff for dogs and cats.  Cat doors (incl. electromagnetic), beds,
  bowls, collars, toys.  Stuff for people, too: sweaters, T-shirts,
  gift items.

RC Steele
1989 Transit Way
Box 910
Brockport, NY 14420-0910
tel: [phone] orders
     800-872-4506 customer service
  Lots of discount items.  Minimum $50 order.  Watch out for
  shipping costs on oversize items.

A Tale of Two Kitties
11054 Ventura Blvd., Suite 133
Studio City, CA 91604
tel: [phone]
  Novelty cat items: cups, statuettes, cards, etc.

Vet Express
655 Washington
P.O. Box 1168
Rhinelander, WI  54501
tel: [phone]
  Widest selection of canine, feline, and equine vaccines,
  medications, and grooming preparations.  Serious stuff.

Wow-Bow Distributors
309 Burr Road
East Northport, NY  11731
[phone]
[phone]
  Supplies supplements for vegetarian animals.

----------------
This article is Copyright (c) 1994 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.  This
article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: [e-mail]       USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
----------------