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   ocr: Bill turns and grins at us. No worries, he says, which I thought they only said in Australia. This is the kindof thought you need to distract you at moments like this. Nervously we climb out and, tucking our heads under the turning blades, scramble out on to the ridge. Spread out around our promontory is - a deep jagged valley plunging away from us on three sides, softening in its contours at its lower levels.