High Voltage Shareware/high1.zip/high1/DIR15/BM105.ZIP/FAQ.HLP

Text File | 1993-07-25 | 287KB | 6,285 lines

.! CASE- MARG+1,77 PROG-
.!
.!        W A R N I N G
.!  DO NOT MODIFY THIS FILE
.!        W A R N I N G
.!
.! This file is a modified version of the FAQ file. It has been modify so that
.! it is possible to access it from Bike Manager (TM). All topics in this file
.! are shown in a menu in the program, which make it easy for the user to find
.! the topic which he/she want to read.
.!
.! Modified by Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes.
.!
.!===========================================================================
.T FAQ.Information
Last modified: July 19, 1993
.l
Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and Interesting
Information
.l
The following monthly posting contains the answers to frequently asked
questions posed to rec.bicycles and interesting information that cyclists
might find useful. Some of the answers are from postings to rec.bicycles,
and and some are condensed from postings. Answers include the name and
email address of the author. If no author is listed, I'm the guilty party.
If you're the author and I've misspelled your name or have the wrong email
address, let me know and I'll fix it.
.l
If you have something you feel should be included in the FAQ, please write
it up and send it to me at the address below.
.l
Note: I don't read each and every posting to rec.bicycles.*, so suggesting
that something be included in the FAQ may not be seen. If you want
something included, summarize the discussion and send me the summary.
.l
This FAQ is posted to rec.bicycles.misc and news.answers around the 15th of
the month. It is also available via anonymous ftp from:
.l
draco.acs.uci.edu   /pub/rec.bicycles/faq.*
.b
pit-manager.mit.edu /pub/usenet/rec.bicycles.misc
.b
ugle.unit.no        /local/ftp/local/biking/faq.txt
.l
Check the "Archives" section for information on how to obtain the FAQ via
email.
.l 2
Mike Iglesias
.b
[e-mail]
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T FAQ.Quick Index
Quick Index:
.i
* means section hasn't been written yet.
.i
! means updated since last FAQ (June 14, 1993).
.i
+ means new section.
.l
.a
Administrivia       (Adm)
  Abbreviations
  Archives
  Posting Guidelines
! Electronic Mailing Lists
.l
Rides
  Maps
  Touring supplies
  Taking a bike on Amtrak
.l
Racing
  Tour de France Jerseys
! Major Tour Winners  1947-1993
  Rating Tour de France climbs
.l
Social
  Bicycling in America
.l
Marketplace         (Market)
  Bike Trailers
  One Less Car T-Shirts
  Panniers and Racks
  Clothing
  Seats
  Women's Saddles
  Women's Bikes
  Bike Rentals
  Bike Lockers
  Bike Computer Features
  Recumbent Bike Info
  More Recumbent Bike Info
  Buying a Bike
.l
Tech
  Ball Bearing Grades
  SIS Cables
  Milk Jug Mud Flaps
  Lubrication
  Wear and Gear Slipping
  Adjusting Chain Length
  Hyperglide Chains
  Bottom Bracket Info
  Crank Noise
  Cracking/Breaking Cranks
  Biopace Chainrings
  Snakebite flats
  Blown Tube
  Mounting Tires
  More Flats on Rear Tires
  What holds the rim off the ground?
  Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims
  Reusing Spokes
  Clinchers vs. Tubulars
  Presta Valve Nuts
  Ideal Tire Sizes
  Center Pivot vs. Dual Pivot brakes
  Indexed Steering
  Seat adjustments
  Cleat adjustments
  SIS derailleur adjustments
  Where to buy tools
  Workstands
  Frame stiffness comparison
  Frame materials
  Bike pulls to one side
  Frame repair
  Frame Fatigue
+ Adjusting SPD Cleats
+ Rim Tape Summary
+ STI/Ergo Summary

.l
Misc
! Books and Magazines
  Mail Order Addresses
  Technical Support Numbers
  Road Gradient Units
  Helmets
  Terminology
  Avoiding Dogs
  Shaving Your Legs
  Contact Lenses and Cycling
  How to deal with your clothes
  Pete's Winter Cycling Tips
  Nancy's Cold/Wet Cycling Tips
  Studded Tires
  Cycling Myths
  Descending I
  Descending II
  Trackstands
  Front Brake Usage
  Slope Wind, the invisible enemy
  Reflective Tape
  Nutrition Primer
  Nuclear Free Energy Bar recipe
  Powerbars
  Calories burned by cycling
  Road rash
  Knee problems
+ Cycling Psychology

.f
.l 2
.t 3
The topics under e.g. Marketplace are found under Market.*. All topics
are listed in alphabetic order (ascending) in the menu. Some topics are
too long and are truncated in the menu.
.E
.!===========================================================================
.T Adm.Abbreviations
.c Abbreviations
.l
Some common abbreviations used here and in rec.bicycles.*:
.l
FAQ
.b
Frequenly Asked Question. What you are reading now is a file containing
answers to some FAQs.
.l
IMHO
.b
In my humble opinion.
.l
TIOOYK
.b
There Is Only One You Know. Refers to the Tour de France.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Adm.Archives
.c Archives
.l
I've made available via anonymous ftp a copy of the current FAQ and a
few other items on draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12). This is the
workstation on my desk, so I'd appreciate it if people would restrict
their use to 7pm-7am Pacific time. The files are in pub/rec.bicycles.
.l
For those without Internet access, you can use the ftpmail server at
gatekeeper.dec.com to get copies of the items there. I really don't have
time to email copies of files to people who can't get at them easily. To
use the FTP server, send an email message containing the line
.l
help
.l
in the body of the message to [e-mail]. You'll get
a help file back from the FTP server with more information on how to
use it.
.a
                README for Rec.Bicycles Anonymous FTP area
.l
arnie.light     Arnie Berger's ([e-mail]) "Ultimate bike light"
.l
bike.lockers    David H. Wolfskill's ([e-mail]) summary of
                bike locker vendors.
.l
bike.painting   Sam Henry's ([e-mail]) collection of articles on
                how to paint a bike.
.l
bike_power.*    Ken Roberts program to calculate power output and power
                consumption. See bike_power.doc for more info.
.l
biking_log.*    Phil Etheridge's ([e-mail]) hypercard stack
                riding diary. It keeps track of dates, distance, time,
                average speed, etc., and keeps running weekly, monthly,
                and yearly totals. See biking_log.read_me for more
                information.
.l
bmb.ride        Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) report on her 1992
                Boston-Montreal-Boston ride.
.l
competitive.nutrition
                Roger Marquis' ([e-mail]) article from the
                Feb 91 Velo News on nutrition and cycling.
.l
faq.*           The current Frequently Asked Questions posting
.l
first.century   Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) tips on training
                for your first century ride.
.l
lights          Tom Reingold's ([e-mail]) collection of
                articles on bike lights.
.l
lights2         More articles from rec.bicycles.* on lights.
.l
mtb.buy         Joakim Karlsson's ([e-mail]) article on
                buying an entry-level MTB.
.l
pbp.info        Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) information
                on her Paris-Brest-Paris ride.
.l
pictures        Bicycling gif pictures.
.l
prof.sched      Roland Stahl's ([e-mail]) list of
                scheduled professional races in many countries.
.l
ride.index      Chris Hull's/Bill Bushnell's ([e-mail])
                explanation of a way to "index" rides and compare the
                difficulty of different rides.
.l
spike.bike      Bob Fishell's ([e-mail]) Spike Bike series.
                They are numbered in the order that Bob posted them to
                rec.bicycles. All the Spike Bike stories are
                "Copyright 1989 by Robert Fishell, all rights reserved."
.l
spokelen11.bas  Roger Marquis' ([e-mail]) spoke length
                calculator, written in Microsoft Quickbasic.
.l
spokelen.c      Andy Tucker's ([e-mail]) port of
                Roger Marquis' spokelen11.bas to C.
.l
spokelen.hqx    [e-mail]'s Hypercard stack that computes
                spoke lengths.
.l
studded.tires   Nancy Piltch's ([e-mail]) compilation
                of messages on studded tires, including how to make your
                own.
.l
tandem.boxes    Arnie Berger's ([e-mail]) notes on how
                the built a box to transport his tandem to Europe and
                back. It's taken from a longer travelogue on his trip -
                if you want more information, contact him at the above
                address.
.l
tech.supp.phone Joshua Putnam's ([e-mail]) list of technical
                support numbers for various manufacturers. This list
                used to be in the FAQ but now is too long to include there.
.l
trailers        A summary posting of messages about bike trailers. Good
                stuff if you're thinking of buying a trailer.
.l
wheels.*.hqx    R. Scott Truesdell's ([e-mail]) Hypercard
                stack to calculate spoke lengths. See wheels.readme
                for more info.
.l
wintertips      Pete Hickey's ([e-mail]) notes about
                how to cycle in the winter.
.l
wintertips.pam  Pamela Blalock's ([e-mail]) winter cycling tips.
.f
.l
Files available via anonymous ftp from ugle.unit.no (129.241.1.97)
in the directory local/biking. This directory is maintained by Joern
Dahl-Stamnes ([e-mail]).
.l
Last updated: 8. Mars 1993
.l
.a
File       What
---------------------------------------------------------------------
READ.ME    920921 Information about the other files in the directory.
.l
bm104.zip  The latest version of Bike Manager.
.f
.l
Bike Manager is a shareware program that help you keep a log of your
training activities. It can report summary reports, weekly reports,
monthly reports and yearly reports. Features to analyze your activities
against your goals. And more...
.l
.a
brake.doc  About how to make your own brake booster.
.l
gtos91.doc A story from The Great Trial of Strength 1991.
.l
gtos92.doc Same, but for the 1992 trial.
.l
gtos93.doc Same, for the 1993 trail.
.l
toj93.doc  A story from the Tour of Jotunheimen 1993.
.f
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Adm.Posting Guidelines
.c Posting Guidelines
.l
The rec.bicycles subgroups are described below - please try to post your
article to the appropriate group. The newsgroups were designed to minimize
cross posting, so please take the time to think about the most appropriate
newsgroup and post your article there.
.l
rec.bicycles.marketplace: Bicycles, components, ancillary equipment and
services wanted or for sale, reviews of such things, places to buy them, and
evaluations of these sources. Not for discussion of general engineering,
maintenance, or repair -- see rec.bicycles.tech.
.l
rec.bicycles.tech: Techniques of engineering, construction, maintenance and
repair of bicycles and ancillary equipment. Not for products or services
offered or wanted -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace.
.l
rec.bicycles.rides: Discussions of tours and training or commuting routes.
Not for disussion of general riding techniques -- see rec.bicycles.misc.
.l
rec.bicycles.soc: Social issues, cycling transportation advocacy, laws,
conduct of riders and drivers; road hazards such as potholes, dogs, and
sociopaths.
.l
rec.bicycles.racing: Race results, racing techniques, rules, and
organizations. Not racing equipment -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace or
rec.bicycles.tech.
.l
rec.bicycles.misc: General riding techniques, rider physiology, injuries
and treatment, diets, and other cycling topics.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Adm.Electronic Mailing lists
.c Electronic Mailing lists
.l
[e-mail]: A mailing list for tandem bicycle enthusiasts.
Suitable topics include questions and answers related to tandem
componentry, riding technique, brands and equipment selection, prices,
clubs, rides and other activities, cooperating on a section on tandems
for the rec.bicycles.* FAQ, etc. For more information send mail to
"[e-mail]".
.l 2
HPV list: The HPV list is for the discussion of issues related to the
design, construction, and operation of human powered vehicles and
closely related kin. (Hybrid human/electric, for example.)
.l
For further information, send a mail message containing the following
single line in the message, to [e-mail]:
.l
info hpv
.l 2
BICYCLE on [e-mail] or [e-mail]
.l
The BICYCLE list was formed to provide a forum for cyclists to discuss
all topics related to bicycles, mtn. biking, and cycling in general.
This is NOT the place to discuss issues related to motorcycling.
.l
To subscribe to BICYCLE send the following command to LISTSERV@BITNIC
or [e-mail] in the BODY of e-mail:
.l
.i 6
SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE real name
.l
For example: SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE John Doe
.l
Owner: Chris Tanski  [e-mail] or
[e-mail]
.E
.!===========================================================================
.T Rides.Maps
.c Maps
.c (Jim Carson [e-mail])
.l
BikeCentennial maps are not free, but you can get them without joining. To
order stuff with Mastercard or Visa, you can call 1-800-933-1116 (24 hr).
Maps are currently (May 1991) $6.95 each to "non-members," $4.95 each to
"members." There are also small discounts for sets of maps and members in
the continental US don't have to pay for surface shipping and handling.
.l
Scale of the maps is generally 1" = 4mi/6.4km. Certain areas are more
detailed when necessary. I like the maps because they have lots of
interesting features labeled (campgrounds, grocery stores, major changes in
elevation, historical info about the region,...), they're printed on a
water-resistant paper, and they fit nicely into a handlebar bag map case.
.l
As of May '91, there are two and a half transcontinental (W-E) routes an
east coast (N-S) route, a west coast route (N-S), and numerous routes among
the various parks in the western U.S. and Canada. [I say "2 1/2
transcontinental routes" because the southern portion of the
transcontinental route from TX to FL is not in print though the maps are
"done."]
.l
Membership is $22/annually, and they have a lifetime membership available.
.l
Members get copies of BikeCentennial's magazine, _BikeReport_, published 9
times annually, a list of tours run by BikeCentennial, and the annual _The
Cyclists' Yellow Pages_. _The Cyclists' Yellow Pages_ provides *LOTS* of
interesting information on touring and points of contact for more
information about cycling and touring all over the world. (For example,
they have an arrangement with The Netherlands Service Center for Tourism
whereby you can purchase full-color, 21" x 38", 1:100k scale, Dutch-language
maps.)
.l
BikeCentennial's address and phone:
.l
.a
        BikeCentennial
        [phone], [phone]
        PO Box 8308
        Missoula, MT 59807-9988
.f
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Rides.Touring supplies
.c Touring supplies
.c (Scott "gaspo" Gasparian  [e-mail])
.l
.i 8
Recently, I asked the group: what do you bring with you on medium trips?
(medium being more than one nite, and less than a week). I received some
excellent replies, a few great stories, and lots of things that I never
would have thought of. (at least not until I needed that spare spoke that
is).
.l
Ok, for all of you who don't know what to bring with you on that next medium
trip...
.l 2
FOOD:
.i 8
Here, just whatever you normally consume. If you plan on staying in a
hotel/B&B, then obviously 1 day's worth is enough. Standard things like
power-bars and drink mixes should do the trick. Since I'm not going to BFE,
I have no idea what to pack for a real "camp-out" type tour. This subject
is enough for a discussion in itself, but I just eat what I want.
.l
CLOTHING:
.i 8
Almost everybody suggested something different, rangin from hi-tech
bodysuits to cutoffs and T-shirts. However, everybody agreed on the
indispensibleness (tm) of rain gear. Specifically, light waterproof pants
and jacket are not only good for staying dry, but have a very high
warmth/weight ratio.
.i 8
A spare change of skivies, and a pair of dry socks were also highly
recomended. A pair of jeans or a "smushable outfit" can come in handy, but
I usually smell so bad after a day of riding that anybody who is talking to
me doesn't care what I wear. If it might be non-warm, a watch-cap or other
non-helmet type hat can help.
.l
FIRST-AID:
.i 8
Outside of the standard band-aids/antiseptic-goop bit, sunscreen and
bug-away topped the lists. Asprin or Ibuprofen and rolaids were mentioned,
but I guess thats a personal thing, just like...
.l
TOILETRIES:
.i 8
I stick with: soap, toothbrush/paste, deodorant. That covers all I need,
but everybody has different needs, and I'm not even gonna touch the
"personal hygeine" stuff. A razor is handy too, it can help keep that
road-rash dressing from ripping all your remaining hair out.
.l
MISC:
.i 8
I'll put the tent/pit stuff into this category. Robyn Stewart gave an
excellent testamony to the uses of rope and tarps. A piece of rope
stretched between two trees can keep the food above the critter-level, and
can also provide a rudimentary tent with the aid of an old shower-curtain.
Again, there is a whole area of discussion here on the pits and mattresses,
but if it keeps you warm and dry, it works.
.l 2
TOOLS:
.i 8
Basically, this could be split into two different classes, with things like
tire-kit being in the "fix it yourself" category, and other stuff like a
chain remover tool is in the  "how far will I be from civilization" range.
This was what I really wanted to know about when I posted my request, so a
little more info than the first groups.
.l
Most of this depends upon how much work _YOU_ do to your velo. If replacing
spokes is trivial to you, then you already know what tools to bring. Also,
wrenches and screwdrivers are very velo dependent: handy sizes for a MTB
might be useless for a nice racer, and vice-versa. Tools that tune more than
repair are also an individual call. I always carry a hex-wrench that fits
my brake-shoe adjustment bolt, but never the larger one that actually
removes the entire caliper.
.l
.a
        pump
        pressure gauge
        flat kit
        wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
        hex(allen)-wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
        chain tool
        chain links
        tire levers (plastic)
        spoke wrench
        safety wire
        duct tape
        zip ties
.f
.l
SPARES:
.i 8
Again, these fall into "distance from civilization" categories. For example,
that nut that connects your front mudguard to the forks is essential, but
could be fixed with the safety wire until you find a velo-shop/store that
might have a replacement. Then again, one little nut is easy on
space/weight, and it may be hard to get a replacement if your velos
measurements are non-standard. If you have a hard-time finding a
replacement for that random part at your local store, bring one with you.
.l
.a
        inner tubes
        tire-boots
        brake shoes
        light bulbs
        spokes (labeled if different, tied to the frame)
        nuts and bolts for rack/fenders/etc.
        tire (if you're _really_ out there)
        toe-clip strap
        shoe-laces
        cable (especially if yours are longer than normal).
        cable housing (for the shimano special shifter ones)
.f
.l
NIFTY IDEAS:
.i 8
Here are some of the better inside tips that I found both humorous and
usefull....
.l
[e-mail] (Mike Johnston)
.b
A sock (to keep tools inside and for keeping grease off my hands during rear
wheel flats)
.l
[e-mail] (Steve Kromer)
.b
The most important article to take along on a long ride seems to be faith.
.l
[e-mail] (chris rouch)
.b
15cm of old tyre
.l
Robyn Stewart <[e-mail]>
.b
Enough money to get Greyhound home if something goes terribly wrong.
.l
[e-mail]
.b
bungie cords - you never know when you might want to get that set of six
beer mugs as a souvenir and transport it on the back of your bike.
.l
[e-mail] (Catherine Anne Foulston)
.b
ZAP Sport Towel. I think it is really useful because you can get it wet and
it still dries you.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Rides.Taking a bike on Amtrak
.c Taking a bike on Amtrak
.c (Carlos Martin  [e-mail])
.l
The following article relates my own experience in taking a bike as
luggage on the Amtrak in the summer of 1992. It is intended to offer
advice to those who might choose to do the same, and is not intended to
reflect the views or policies of Amtrak. For reference, I traveled from
Trenton to Pittsburgh at the start of a tour.
.l
Traveling with a bike on Amtrak can be problem-free if you take a few
precautions. Amtrak handles bikes at stations that check in baggage.
(Smaller stations and some trains don't check baggage at all.) There is
a $5 baggage fee for bikes, and it includes a box. Call the station
several days before your trip and notify them that you will need a
bicycle box.
.l
The box they provided was big enough to accomodate my relatively
long-framed touring bike (Specialized Expedition) without taking off
either wheel, and with room to spare lengthwise. You will, however, have
to remove the pedals (even clipless ones) and turn the handlebars to fit
the bike in the box. Plan on putting only the bike in the box - no
helmet or panniers. (You may want to check with Amtrak on this point -
they may not cover damages to the bike if you packed other stuff in the
box.)
.l
Before leaving home for the station, loosen your pedals and stem enough
to make sure you won't need heavy-duty tools at the station. Plan to
arrive at the station one and a half hours before departure time -
Amtrak wants all checked baggage at least a half hour before departure
(they may tell you one hour). Don't forget to keep your tools handy.
.l
At the station, go to the baggage room, get your box and some tape from
the attendant, remove the pedals, and loosen the stem bolt and the bolt
that holds the handlebars in the stem. Hold the front wheel between your
feet as you turn the handlebars parallel to the top tube. Roll the bike
into the box and seal the ends. If everything goes smoothly, you can do
the above packing in ten minutes. Now go have lunch before you get on
the train unless you want to take your chances with train food.
.l
BTW, the trains are very roomy and comfortable, particularly if you are
accustomed to traveling in airline cattle coaches. I would travel by
Amtrak again in a similar situation. (The usual disclaimer applies. I
have no connection to Amtrak, other than being a taxpaying subsidizer
and occasional user of the rail system.)
.E
.!===========================================================================
.T Racing.Tour de France Jerseys
.c Tour de France Jerseys
.c (Chris Murphy   [e-mail])
.l
Chauner and Halstead (1990) in "The Tour de France Complete Book of Cycling"
explain:
.l
YELLOW
.b
Jersey -- Overall leader, first awarded during the 1919 race (TdF started in
1903); yellow to match the paper used to print L'Auto (Automobile Cyclisme),
a French newspaper about bike racing.
.l
POLKADOT
.b
Jersey (White w/red dots) -- Best climber, determined by points scored by
the first 3 to 15 riders finishing selected mountain stages (number of
riders awarded points varies with the difficulty of the stage). First
awarded 1933.
.l
GREEN
.b
Jersey -- Points jersey, usually won by sprinter-types, with points given to
the first 25 riders to finish each stage. First awarded 1953.
.l
YELLOW
.b
Hats -- First place team, determined by combined elapsed times of the the
team's top 3 riders.
.l
In the event of a rider leading the race and also deserving one of the other
jerseys, the race leader wears yellow, and the 2nd place in the category
wears the category jersey.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Racing.Tour Winners 1947-1993
.c Major Tour Winners 1947-1993
.c (Tim Smith [e-mail])
.l
[Ed note: I'm hoping Tim won't be too upset if I add to the list he posted.
I need some help filling in the last few years.]
.l
Winners of the Big Three National Tours -- Since 1947:
.l
.a
      Tour de France          Giro d'Italia          Vuelta d'Espana
--------------------------------------------------------------------
1947  Jean Robic (F)          Fausto Coppi (I)       E. van Dyck (B)
1948  Gino Bartali (I)        F. Magni (I)           B. Ruiz (E)
1949  Fausto Coppi (I)        F. Coppi               (not held)
1950  Ferdi Kubler (CH)       Hugo Koblet (CH)       E. Rodriguez (E)
1951  Hugo Koblet (CH)        F. Magni               (nh)
1952  Fausto Coppi            F. Coppi               (nh)
1953  Louison Bobet (F)       F. Coppi               (nh)
1954  Louison Bobet           C. Clerici (CH)        (nh)
1955  Louison Bobet           F. Magni               J. Dotto (F)
1956  Roger Walkowiak (F)     Charly Gaul (L)        A. Conterno (I)
1957  Jacques Anquetil (F)    Gastone Nencini (I)    J. Lorono (E)
1958  Charly Gaul (L)         E. Baldini (I)         Jean Stablinski (F)
1959  Federico Bahamontes (E) Charly Gaul            A. Suarez (E)
1960  Gastone Nencini (I)     Jacques Anquetil (F)   F. de Mulder (B)
1961  Jacques Anquetil        A. Pambianco (I)       A. Soler (E)
1962  Jacques Anquetil        F. Balmamion (I)       Rudy Altig (D)
1963  Jacques Anquetil        F. Balmamion           J. Anquetil (F)
1964  Jacques Anquetil        Jacques Anquetil       Raymond Poulidor (F)
1965  Felice Gimondi (I)      V. Adorni (I)          R. Wolfshohl (D)
1966  Lucien Aimar (F)        Gianni Motta (I)       F. Gabica (E)
1967  Roger Pingeon (F)       Felice Gimondi (I)     J. Janssen (NDL)
1968  Jan Janssen (NDL)       Eddy Merckx (B)        Felice Gimondi (I)
1969  Eddy Merckx (B)         Felice Gimondi         Roger Pingeon (F)
1970  Eddy Merckx             Eddy Merckx            Luis Ocana (E)
1971  Eddy Merckx             Gosta Petersson (S)    F. Bracke (B)
1972  Eddy Merckx             Eddy Merckx            J-M Fuente (E)
1973  Luis Ocana (E)          Eddy Merckx            Eddy Merckx (B)
1974  Eddy Merckx             Eddy Merckx            J-M Fuente
1975  Bernard Thevenet (F)    F. Bertoglio (I)       Tamames (E)
1976  Lucien van Impe (B)     Felice Gimondi         J. Pesarrodona (E)
1977  Bernard Thevenet        Michel Pollentier (B)  Freddy Maertens (B)
1978  Bernard Hinault (F)     J. de Muynck (B)       Bernard Hinault (F)
1979  Bernard Hinault         Giuseppe Saronni (I)   Joop Zoetemelk (NDL)
1980  Joop Zoetemelk (NDL)    Bernard Hinault (F)    F. Ruperez (E)
1981  Bernard Hinault         Giovanni Battaglin (I) Giovanni Battaglin (I)
1982  Bernard Hinault         Bernard Hinault        Marino Lejarreta (E)
1983  Laurent Fignon (F)      Giuseppe Saronni (I)   Bernard Hinault (F)
1984  Laurent Fignon          Francesco Moser (I)    Eric Caritoux (F)
1985  Bernard Hinault         Bernard Hinault        Pedro Delgado (E)
1986  Greg Lemond (USA)       Roberto Visentini (I)  Alvaro Pino (E)
1987  Stephen Roche (EIR)     Stephen Roche (EIR)    Luis Herrera (Col.)
1988  Pedro Delgado (E)       Andy Hampsten (USA)    Sean Kelly (EIR)
1989  Greg Lemond (USA)       Laurent Fignon (F)     Pedro Delgado (E)
1990  Greg Lemond (USA)       Guanni Bugno (I)       Marco Giovanetti (I)
1991  Miguel Indurain (E)     Franco Chioccioli (I)  Melchior Mauri (E)
1992  Miguel Indurain (E)     Miguel Indurain (E)    Toni Rominger (CH)
1993  Miguel Indurain (E)     Miguel Indirain (E)    Toni Rominger (CH)
.l
The Tour started in 1903, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1940-1946.
The Giro started in 1909, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1941-1945.
.l
Source: 1947-1982: "La Fabuleuse Histoire du Cyclisme" by Pierre Chany.
        1982-1988: my fallible memory. Would someone complete 1983 and
        1984, and correct any mistakes? Thanks.
.f
.l
One interesting observation: almost all the winners of the Tour were big
names in their time (yes, even Charly Gaul and Jean Robic.)
.l
There were no same-year winners of the Tour and the Giro before 1949. In
fact, the first year a non-Italian won the Giro was 1950.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Racing.Rating the TdF Climbs
.c Rating the Tour de France Climbs
.c (Bruce Hildenbrand  [e-mail])
.l
One of the most frequently asked questions is how do the organizers
determine the ratings for the climbs in the Tour de France(TIOOYK). The Tour
organizers use two criteria 1) the length and steepness of the climb and 2)
the position of the climb in the stage.
.l
It is important to note several things before this discussion begins. First,
the organizers of the Tour have been very erratic in their classifications
of climbs. The north side of the Col de la Madeleine has flip-flopped
between a Category 1 to an Hors Category climb, even though it seems to be
in the same position of a stage every year.
.l
Secondly, rating inflation, so rampant in other sports has raised its ugly
head here. Climbs that used to be Category 2 are now Category 1, even
though, like the Madeleine, they occupy the same position in a stage year
after year.
.l
Let's talk about the ratings. I will give you my impressions on what I
think the criteria are for rating the climbs based on having ridden over 75
of the rated climbs in the major European tours.
.l
Note that gradual climbs do not receive grades. It has been my observation
that about a 4% grade is necessary for a climb to get rated. Also, a climb
must gain at least 100m for it to be rated.
.l
Category 4 - the lowest category, climbs of 300-1000 feet(100-300m).
.l
Category 3 - climbs of 1000-2000 feet(300-600m).
.l
Category 2 - climbs of 2000-3500 ft.(600-1100m)
.l
Category 1 - climbs of 3500-5000ft(1100-1500m)
.l
Hors Category - the hardest, climbs of 5000ft+(1500m+)
.l
Steepness also plays a factor in the rating. Most of the big climbs in the
Alps average 7-8% where the big climbs in the Pyrenees average 8-9%.
.l
Please remember that I am giving very, very rough guidelines and that there
are exceptions to every rule. For example, L'Alpe D'Huez climbs 3700ft
(1200m), but is an Hors Category climb. This is because it usually comes at
the end of a very tough stage and the climb itself is unusually steep (~9%)
by Alpine standards.
.l
More confusing is the Col de Borderes, a mere 1000ft (300m) climb outside of
Arrens in the Pyrenees mountains. I have seen it rated anywhere from a
Category 3 to a Category 1!!! This is most likely due again, to its
placement on the stage. The Category 3  rating came when it was near the
beginning of a stage where its Category 1 rating came when it was near the
end.
.l
Flat or downhill sections can also affect a climb's rating. Such sections
offer a rest to the weary and can reduce the difficulty of the climb
considerably. This may be one of the reasons that the aforementioned Col de
la Madeleine, which has a 1 mile downhill/ flat section at mid-height,
flip-flops in its rating.
.l
I am often asked how climbs in the United States compare to those in Europe.
Most of the US climbs are either short, but steep enough by European
standards(6-8% grade) to fall into the Category 3 or possibly 2, or the
climbs gain enough altitude, but are too long(they average <5%) so again
they would fail to break the Category 1 barrier and end up most likely a
Category 2 or 3.
.l
Fear not, there are exceptions. Most notable to Californains is the south
side of Palomar Mountain which from Poma Valley climbs 4200' in 11 miles, a
true category 1 ascent.
.l
A popular Northern California climb, Mount Hamilton, is similar to Palomar
Mountain but, fails to be a Category 1 climb because of two offending
downhill section on the ascent.
.l
For Coloradoans, you can thank the ski industry for creating long, but
relatively gradual climbs that rarely exceed 5% for any substantial
length(5+ miles). I never had to use anything bigger than a 42x23 on any
climb in Colorado, regardless of altitude. Gear ratios of 39x24 or 26 are
commonplace in the Alps and Pyrenees and give a very telling indication as
to the difficulty of European climbs.
.l
One potential category 1 climb for Coloradoans may be the 4000 ft. climb in
about 15 miles from Ouray to the top of Red Mountain Pass.
.l
Also, remember we are rating only paved(i.e. asphalt) roads. Dirt roads
vary considerably in their layout, condition and maintenance because there
really are no guidelines for their construction. This makes it difficult to
compare these climbs and inappropriate to lump them with paved roads.
.l
One last note. I think it is inappropriate to compare the ascents of climbs
by the European pros with the efforts of us mere mortals. I have said this
time and time again and I will repeat it now. It is very, very hard for the
average person to comprehend just how fast the pros climb the big passes.
Pace makes all the difference. Riding a climb is very different than racing
it.
.l
Bruce
.E
.!===========================================================================
.T Social.Bicycling in America
.c Bicycling in America
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
.c (or How to survive on a bicycle)
.l
In America, bicycling appears to be an unacceptable activity for adults. It
is viewed as a pastime reserved for children (people who are not old enough
to drive cars). Adults who sense that they are violating this stricture,
excuse their bicycling by representing it as the pursuit of physical
fitness. They refer to their bicycling as training rides. Rarely do you
hear a cyclist say "we were bicycling" but rather "we were on a training
ride". Certainly most of these people never race although one might assume,
by implication, that their other rides are races. Some also refer to
themselves as serious cyclists, a term used to describe those who,
typically, keep track of pedaling cadence and other bicycling statistics,
thereby giving proof that they are not engaged in child's play.
.l
In contrast, Europeans seem able to accept bicycling as a proper activity
for all ages. That is to say, motorists do not treat bicyclists with
apartheid and bicyclists do not feel the need to justify their pursuit as
anything other than bicycling, for whatever reason. In Europe cadence on
speedometers is an un-marketable function for unexplained reasons, however,
one could imagine that for the average cyclist it is a useless statistic,
except for those on "training rides".
.l
With this perception of bicycling in America, non cyclists and some
occasional cyclists are offended by others who bicycle on public roads in
the presence of automobile traffic. "Get the f#%k off the road!" and
similar epithets are heard from drivers, some of whose cars are equipped
with bike racks. It is similar to gay bashing; by expressing public outrage
they demonstrate abhorrence of unacceptable behavior. The same is true of
bicyclists who deride others in public for not wearing a helmet. Aggressive
self righteousness is probably a fitting description.
.l
Another motive behind such behavior may be a sense of dissatisfaction with
ones life. Anyone who is perceived as having fun, or at least more fun than
the subject, needs to be brought down a notch. Psychologists who have
interviewed youths that go "wilding" have gotten responses to the effect
that "my life is terrible and I can't stand people who are having fun". So
these youths attack others and beat them bloody. In a manner that may not
make sense to others, they bring their victims down a notch to achieve
parity.
.l
There is little doubt that bicycling has its hazards. You can fall by
running into a pothole or an obstacle, by riding into a grating, or falling
on loose gravel or a slick manhole cover. There are enough hazards without
the threat of being run down by a car. However, the whole sport loses its
appeal when motorists, who believe that adult bicycling is offensive,
actively engage in making it a deadly endeavor.
.l
The scenario:
.l
In a typical encounter a driver says to his passenger "You see that guy on
the bicycle? That's a dangerous place to ride." while slicing within inches
of the cyclist. The passenger is truly impressed with the danger of
bicycling, especially in the presence of this driver.
.l
I don't understand how drivers justify such behavior but I think I know what
is going on.
.l
Examples:
.l
o  The buzz and swerve routine:
.l
A driver slices dangerously close even though there is no opposing traffic.
Then he drifts to the edge of the pavement to make clear how far he went out
of his way for the cyclist. The desired path was even nearer the road
shoulder than at the passing point. The buzz and swerve is executed equally
well consciously and subconsciously.
.l
o  Center court, extra point:
.l
The car, on a visibly empty stretch of road, travels perfectly centered
between the median and edge stripes, even when this requires passing within
inches of a cyclist. It appears that the driver is awarding himself points
for not flinching when passing cyclists and extra points for proximity. In
the event of a collision it is, of course, the cyclist who swerved
unexpectedly. The precision with which the driver executes this maneuver,
in spite of the danger, makes the center court game conspicuous. People
generally don't drive exactly centered in a lane, especially when there is
an obstacle.
.l
o  Honk and slice:
.l
The buzz and swerve or center court routine can be enhanced by honking a
single one second blast. This is usually done at a far greater distance
than a sincere warning toot; about 200 yards works best. This is a great
crutch for the driver who subsequently collides with the cyclist. "But I
warned him!"
.l
o  The trajectory intercept:
.l
A car is traveling on a road that crosses the cyclists path at right angles.
The car and bike are equally distant from the intersection but at different
speeds. With skill, the driver of the car can slow down at a rate that lets
him arrive at the intersection at precisely the same time as the cyclist.
The bicyclist who has a stop sign may now come to a complete stop and wait
for the driver who is only looking out for the cyclist's safety. If the
cyclist doesn't stop, the driver honks and yells something about breaking
the law.
.l
Extra points are gained by offering the right of way to the cyclist, in
spite of moving traffic in the adjacent lanes.
.l
o  The contrived hindrance:
.l
A driver refuses to pass a cyclist on a two lane road until the passenger
asks how much longer they must follow this bicyclist, or until the following
cars begin to honk. Then, regardless of visibility or oncoming traffic, an
inopportune pass is executed after which each of following drivers makes it
clear when passing that it was the cyclist who was responsible for the near
collision.
.l
o The rear-ender:
.l
While riding down a mountain road, the cyclist catches up with a car that
notices his rapid approach. If an oncoming car approaches the driver slows
down, obviously for safety sake, and then suddenly slams on the brakes when
there is no place for the cyclist to go. Bicycles cannot stop as fast as
cars since cars can safely skid the front wheels but bicycles can't. This
game is the more dangerous variation of speeding up every time the cyclist
tries to pass but to drive as slowly as possible everywhere else.
.l
One explanation for these maneuvers is that the driver recalls that riding
in the mountains was always too hard and riding down hill was scary. This
cyclist can't do what I couldn't do and I'll show him a thing or two. Thus
the driver proves to himself that not riding in the hills was for safety's
sake, it had nothing to do with physical ability. It fits into the " I'll
teach that smartass a lesson. There is little risk for the car because in a
rear-end collision the vehicle behind is, with few exceptions, found at
fault.
.l
So why does all this go on and on?
.l
It is not as though they are all hostile drivers; some are just frustrated
drivers. They may still be getting even for some bicycle accident they had
in their youth and don't want others to get off any easier. Some are angry
at having to spend the time behind the wheel while other "irresponsible
adults" are playing on their bicycles. I believe the meanest ones are
insecure people who don't feel as though they are accomplishing what they
expect of themselves and don't like to see others have it any better. Many
drivers believe that the only part of the road to which a bicyclist is
entitled is the road shoulder, unless it occurs to the driver to use that
part too.
.l
A bike rack on a car may lead you to believe that the driver has a pro
bicycle attitude. Some people use bike racks to transport family bicycles
to a park where they can be ridden safely without venturing onto dangerous
roads; roads that are meant for cars. Among these people are some of the
strongest opponents of general bicycling. They take refuge in the belief
that, if they should run you down while playing center court, it would prove
that you should bicycle as they do, and not get in the way of cars.
.l
What to do? Don't fuel the flames. Don't return the rudeness that is
dished out. Take legal action where appropriate (and possible). Don't
posture in traffic drawing attention to some undefined superiority to people
who sit in cars. Don't balance on your bike or ride in circles in front of
cars waiting at a red light. Don't make moves in traffic that are either
discourteous, or at best, awkward but legal. If you hear loud knobby tires
coming, believe it! That guy in the extra tall pickup truck with the all
terrain tires, dual roll bars and multiple searchlights is not a friend of
yours coming close to say hello. Give him room.
.E
.!===========================================================================
.T Market.Bike Trailers
[Ed note: The posting I saved on bike trailers is over 145k bytes, so
if you want a copy see the section on "Archives".]
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.One Less Car T-Shirts
.c One Less Car T-Shirts
.c (Alayne McGregor  [e-mail])
.c (Ed Ravin  panix![e-mail])
.l
The T-shirts are produced by Transportation Alternatives, a New York City
bicycle activist group. They're 100% cotton, have the TA logo on the front,
and ONE LESS CAR on the back. Call TA for colors and sizes currently in
stock. They're US$15 each. No refunds or exchanges. Allow 6 weeks for
delivery. For people who have to drive but feel guilty about it, they also
have "I'm Polluting the Atmosphere" bumper stickers at 3 for $5.
.l
Send orders to:
.l
.a
Transportation Alternatives
92 Saint Marks Place
New York, NY 10009
USA
attn: One Less Car
.f
.l
I happen to have one of these shirts in my closet right now. Causes lots of
comments when my covivant and I ride our tandem with both us wearing our
shirts.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.Panniers and Racks
.c Panniers and Racks
.c (Sharon Pedersen  [e-mail])
.l
This is a condensed version of a longer article on panniers, low-rider
racks, loading and generators. --Sharon   [e-mail]
.l
.c --PANNIERS--
Price--cheaper may not be better, if they fall apart. Commuting to school
entails stuffing sharp-cornered books into them thus making sturdiness as
important here as for touring.
.l
Cut--an angled cut may make those books not fit so well.
.l
Pockets--convenient for organization, but cuts down on versatile use of
space. You can use stuff sacks for organization instead of pockets. One big
and one small pocket on each pannier is plenty.
.l
Fastening--lots of options: bungees and hooks, or fixed placement hooks, or
straps with buckles or cams. Bungees and hooks have been just fine in my
own road experience, but for off-road riding, you will want more security.
However, don't get a system with so many attachments that you can't stand to
take the panniers on/off.
.l
Brands--the following is a by no means exhaustive list, with telegraphic
comments made in 1988. Check local stores since features may have changed
since then.
.l
Eclipse--(no comment);  Kirtland--tourers like them;
.b
MPacks--panniers made by an actual bike tourer, Mike Center, in Santa Rosa,
CA, [phone];
.b
Maddens--made in Boulder, "superior construction at better than average
cost" yeah! (I love mine, write for more glowing testimonials);
.b
Performance--low-cost, non-spring attachment;  Rhode Gear--expensive;
.b
Tailwind--aerodynamic, rigid attachment.
.l
.c --LOW-RIDER RACKS--
Some manufacturers: Bruce Gordon, Blackburn, Vetta, Voyager. The Bruce
Gordons are more expensive (~$70 in 1988) but are designed with clearance
for the quick-release skewer so you don't have to pry them apart to take the
front wheel off.
.l
.c --REAR RACKS--
(No comment in the original article;  Blackburns seem to be the standard and
durable enough.)
.l
.c --LOADING--
Balance the load side-to-side and, if possible, fore-and-aft. Keep heavier
items low and towards the bottom bracket. Rider, bike and luggage together
should have 55-60% of weight on rear wheel; remainder on front. Bike with
front low-riders is quite stable.
.l
.c --GENERATORS--
The usual location on the left seat-stay interferes with panniers. Mount the
generator on the right seat-stay facing the other way, and it will work
fine, despite rotating "backwards."  Or go with a generator under the bottom
bracket, which will have the advantage of putting the wear on the tread
rather than the sidewall of the tire.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.Clothing materials
.c Clothing materials
.c (Jim Carson  [e-mail])
.l
[Ed note: From a summary Jim posted]
.l
Polarlite
.b
Fluffy, fleecy stuff also called Polarplus and Synchilla. Comfortable.
Incredibly warm, especially under something that breaks the wind. Doesn't
wick moisture out very well. Breathes very well.
.l
Supplex (nylon)
.b
Comfortable. It is breathable and water repellent (but NOT water proof).
Seems to absorb a small amount of water if it is really getting drenched
.l
Merino (wool)
.b
From a "breed of fine-wooled white sheep originating in Spain and producing
a heavy fleece of exceptional quality."  I guess you could treat this as
normal 100% wool.
.l
Thermax
.b
An improvement on Polypro. The big advantage is heat resistance so you can
put it in the dryer. Balance that against the extra cost.
.l
CoolMax
.b
This stuff seems more like a plastic bag than the revolutionary wicking
material it is advertised as.
.l
Dacron
.b
Trademark name for Dupont polyester. Woven fabric made from dacron is
similar to nylon ripstop or taffeta, but not as stretchy. Many of the
better clothing insulations are made from dacron. They are usually refered
to by more specific trademark names, like quallofil, hollofil, polarguard,
and dacron-88.
.l
Lycra
.b
Used for its stretch, mostly a warm weather (>65 degrees) thing.
.l
GoreTex
.b
A teflon based membrane with microscopic holes. Gortex's claim to fame is
that it will let water vapor (from perspiration) through, but not liquid
water (rain). It blocks wind fairly well too. The membrane is delicate, so
it always comes laminated between 2 layers of other material. It does not
breathe enough. There are less expensive alternatives.
.l
Polypropylene
.b
Does not wick very well. Can be uncomfortable. Troublesome to care for
(e.g. can pill badly)  Will keep you fairly warm if soaked. Not very wind
resistant. Melts in the dryer.
.l
Capilene
.b
Wicks moisture away. Very comfortable. Comes in different weights
for more/less warmth. [lots of favorable things about it... only
really unfavorable thing is the co$t]
.l
60/40 cloth -
.b
This is a cloth with nylon threads running one direction, cotton in the
other. It was the standard wind parka material before Goretex came along,
and is considerably less expensive. Good wind resistance, fairly
breathable. Somewhat water resistant, especially if you spray it with
Scotchguard, but won't hold up to a heavy rain.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.Seats
.c Seats
.l
Seats are a very personal thing, for obvious reasons. There are several
types of seats:
.l
Leather
.b
Seats like the Brooks models. Usually used by hard-core riders. Requires
breaking in before it's really comfortable.
.l
Padded
.b
The usual bike seat, sometimes refered to as "anatomic". Has padding where
your "sit bones" (bottom of pelvis) supposed to rest.
.l
Gel
.b
Like the padded seats, except they have a gel (e.g. Spenco Gel) in them for
additional padding. Reportedly, the gel can harden and/or shift, making the
seat uncomfortable.
.l
There are several types of seat pads (gel filled, containing an air bladder,
etc) that can be fitted over the seat to make it more comfortable.
.l
If you are experiencing pain in delicate areas (especially you women
readers) you should make sure your seat is adjusted correctly (see the
section on seat adjustment). Women may need a women's type seat, which is
wider in the back (women's sit bones are farther apart than men's). Most
pain can be eliminated by a correctly adjusted seat, using a women's seat,
and riding so your body becomes used to it.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.Women's Saddles
.c Women's Saddles
.c (Pamela Blalock  [e-mail])
.l
Many women who cycle have experienced frustration with trying to find a
comfortable saddle. It is amazing how many times I have found myself
standing around after a ride talking with other women about saddles. This
article came from those discussions and an informal survey of woman's saddle
preferences. This is a dynamic article and changes on occassion, so if you
have comments please contact me ([e-mail]) and I will
incorporate your comments.
.l
Just as women are different from men, we are also different from each other.
Since (fortunately) there is no mold into which we were all poured, what
works for one woman may not work for another.
.l
While this is an article on women's saddles, since so many other things can
contribute to potential saddle pain, it will also address some of these
issues as well.
.l
First, insure that your bike fits properly. Many women end up with overly
padded shorts and a big fat thickly padded saddle instead of with a bike
that fits. No saddle will be comfortable if the bike is too big, or set up
incorrectly. It is important to find someone who knows about fit and
specifically about women's fit and get the bike set up properly before
making other changes. It isn't always easy to find someone willing to take
the time, but when you find a shop that will, give them lots of business and
send your friends there! In addition to being more comfortable, a bike that
really fits will also handle better than one that is improperly sized.
.l
Most production bikes are built proportionally for the average man. Using
the old guidelines of sizing a bike by straddling the top tube may leave you
a bike with a top tube that is too long. It is not necessary to run out and
buy a new bike right away if the top tube on your current bike is too long.
Using a shorter stem on a this bike may give you a more comfortable reach.
Very short stems, less than 40 mm, are available, but may have to be special
ordered.
.l
Some shops use a fitting system called the Fit Kit. The numbers generated
from the Fit Kit are just guidelines and may not work for everybody,
especially women. It is important to RIDE your bike and possibly make more
adjustments to achieve a perfect fit. Others may use an infinitely
adjustable stationary bike. One has been developed by Ben Serotta to help
choose the perfect size bike - whether it is a Serotta or not. Adjustable
stems are available to help you and the shop pick a perfect length stem the
first time. Unless your current bike is a really, really poor fit, you
should be able to make a few relatively inexpensive changes to improve the
fit. Then when upgrading or buying a new bike, use what you have learned to
buy a bike that fits better.
.l
One option is to simply select a bike with a shorter seat tube, combined
with a longer seatpost, to get a shorter top tube length. This will work for
taller women, but there is a limit of how short you can make a top tube with
two 700C wheels. Several manufacturers have started building bikes
proportionally sized for women to specifically address our needs. For small
women, these bikes may have a smaller front wheel to get the shorter top
tube, but not all women's bikes have a 24" front wheel. Some have two 26" or
700C wheels, depending on size and geometry. In addition to a shorter top
tube, women's bikes may also have smaller brake levers, narrower handlebars,
shorter cranks and wider saddles. Georgena Terry was the pioneer in this
area, but many other manufacturers now build women's bikes. They may cost a
little more than a comparably equipped man's bike, due to higher production
costs for fewer number of parts. But, I believe that the extra initial cost
to get a properly fit bike will pay off in the long run, since you will
either stop riding an uncomfortable or poorly fitting bike, or you will
eventually replace the poorly fitting parts at additional cost. Of course,
as I said earlier, we are all different and many women may not need any
special adjustments made to their non-custom off-the-shelf bikes.
.l
Now to saddles. A woman's hip bones tend to be set farther apart than a
man's. (This is a design feature to help with childbirth!)  Every woman is
different, and there are some women out there with narrower hip bones. To
determine where you sit bones are, sit on a low curb. Sorry, a chair won't
do! When you sit on the curb, you will ba able to feel your sit bones. This
is what you want supported by your bike saddle. Avocet used to (and maybe
still does) run a great ad showing a hip bone sitting on a saddle. With a
saddle that's too narrow, a woman may find herself straddling it, or
slipping off of one side and pinching nerves - which may eventually cause
the legs or feet to go numb. Of course, a saddle that's too wide may also
cause problems.
.l
A saddle that's slightly wider in the back (than the man's saddle that comes
on most stock bikes) may offer better support for the sit bones. I have
quite a few retired women's saddles with depressed gel indicating exactly
where I my bones are, which for me is close to the edge. Actually, looking
at your old saddle will tell you a lot about where you do and do not need
support! It's important to try out several different saddles to find one
that fits. Remember, we are all different. Unfortunately no one
manufacturer makes different sized women's saddles - but the widths do vary
from manufacturer to manufacturer - so for example, if the Terry is too wide
or too narrow, try the Vetta or Avocet or some other brand. Ask your local
dealer to let you put your bike on a trainer in the shop and try sitting on
and riding a few of his saddles. Saddles are fairly easy to change and a
good shop should be willing to let you try this.
.l
There are several women's saddles on the market, many of which are made with
some form of gel. I have used (and retired) several of these with no
complaints. The gel does compress after a while (regardless of sex), so
these saddles do have to be replaced (for me it's every 10,000 miles).
.l
Many women who responded to my survey said that they have the nose of their
saddle tilted slightly forward to alleviate pressure on the soft tissue. A
large variety of saddles were used with this method including the Brooks
leather. One rider pointed out that having a seatpost with infinitely
adjustable angles, like the American Classic, will help one to find the
perfect angle. With the rachet type adjustment of most, she was never able
to get the angle quite right.
.l
One problem with having the saddle tilted too far forward is that you may
end up with two much weight/pressure on your wrists and hands. The result is
numb hands and pain in the lower back.
.l
In John Forester's "Effective Cycling" book, he suggests getting a cheap
plastic saddle and carving out a depression in the area where the labia
would normally rest. This would place the weight on the sit bones where it
belongs, and remove it from the genital area, where it does not.
.l
Two new saddles were introduced recently which specifically address this
issue, the Terry Women's and the Miyata Pavea. Both are shorter and wider
than the typical man's saddle and both have a hole in the nose to suspend
soft tissue. These saddles should be comfortable when level. The Miyata
leaves the hole exposed, while the Terry is covered in an open-cell
low-density foam.
.l
I have used both the Terry and the Miyata. I've received lots of positive
comments from women (and men) about their experiences with these saddles.
The men seem to notice the difference more after the ride later in the
evening :) :) :)
.l
I recently completed a 750 mile ride on the back of a tandem in 85.5 hours.
That's a lot of time on a saddle. I'd been using the Terry for over 6 months
and it worked great on everything up to 200 miles. But 400 miles into the
trip, I was ready to rip the foam out of the hole. Once the swelling
started, the presence of the foam became unbearable. Even though there was
no plastic shell underneath, there was still something! I asked our crew
person to see if he could find the Miyata saddle. It's often quite difficult
to find women's products, and I was almost shocked when he showed up 20
minutes later with this wonderful saddle with an exposed hole. He had found
the Miyata. The difference was immediately noticeable. I probably would have
finished the ride without it, but I wouldn't have been in a good mood for
days! The Miyata is a little harder under the sit bones than the Terry, but
that's not where I was experiencing pain. Of course the saddle is different
looking and draws lots of comments and sexual innuendos, but it saved my
ride. My male tandem partner is now looking into making a similar type
modification to his saddle before our next really long event.
.l
Not all women like the wider saddles. Some women find all women's saddles
too wide. Several women responded to the survey saying they prefer a man's
saddle. Some of these even felt they had wide hip bones. For those who use
a narrow saddle, finding one that was flat on top seemed to help with the
above mentioned problems. Others who liked various women's saddles still
found them a little thick in the middle, even if they were the right width
in the back. Terry has announced a racing version of their saddle, which has
a narrower nose. This saddle was supposed to be available in June, 1992, but
a manufacturing problem has delayed its delivery to customers. I will update
this article as soon as I get to test ride one. Someday, maybe we will see
women's saddles in various widths. We must create the demand though.
.l
Other suggestions for improved saddle comfort including trying different
shorts. Shorts that bunch up in front may cause discomfort. Shorts fit
differently in and out of the saddle, so look down while you are on the
bike. Sprinkling powder in the shorts may help keep you dry and saddle sore
free on a warm day. A little vasoline may also help with prevention or
treatment of saddles sores.
.l
I can't stress enough that each woman is different and no one saddle is
perfect for all of us. Just because a local or national racer, or your
friend, or *Pamela* uses a particular type of saddle doesn't mean that it
will work for you. Don't let anyone intimidate you into riding something
that is uncomfortable, or changing the angle of your saddle because it's
different. Use the setup that's most comfortable for you.
.l
Among the saddles recommended by respondents were
.b
.a
Terry Women's
Miyata Pavea
WaveFlo
Avocet Women's Racing saddle
Viscount saddle
San Marco Regal
women's Selle Italia Turbo
Brook's B-17
Brook's Pro
.f
.l
(Of course some women hated saddles that others raved about! Did I mention
that we are all DIFFERENT)
.l
Specialty women's products are available through The Womyn's Wheel, 540
Lafayette Rd, Suite 7, Hampton, NH, 03842-3344, phone [phone], or
hopefully at your local bike shop - just keep asking them!!
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.Women's Bikes
.c Women's Bikes
.c (Lynn Karamanos [e-mail])
.l
Here's a summary of the info I received on whether or not to purchase a
Terry bike.
.l
1.) First, find a good bike shop, one that will try to find a bike that fits
you, not just sell you what they have in stock.
.l
2.) Ride many different bikes to see what's best for you. You may be able
to find other bikes that fit just as well as a Terry once you've made some
adjustments/replacements (stem, crank arms, etc.).
.l
3.) If you can't find any other bike to fit you, then a Terry's worth the
extra money.
.l
4.) Except for about two people who sent me email, everyone who's ridden a
Terry has loved it. Even those two people said they knew others who loved
Terry bikes. Bottom line: the fit depends on your build. Women with long
legs/short torso seem to be the ones who like them, not necessarily just
short women.
.l
5.) Also a few people mentioned that there are other road bikes that are
specifically "designed for women" or that fit women well. The names
mentioned: Fuji, Miyata, Bridgestone, Specialized (Sirrus). Also, someone
mentioned that the same production line in Japan that makes Terry
"proportioned" bikes also makes them under other labels. (Also one mountain
bike was named, Mongoose Hilltopper, and two hybred bikes, Univega Via
Activa and Giant Inova.)
.l
6.) Something to keep in mind if you buy a Terry with a small front wheel...
replacement tubes and tires for smaller wheels could be more difficult to
find and/or more expensive.
.l
7.) In case you're looking at older model Terry's, a few people mentioned
that until a couple years ago, some Terry bikes were $200-$300 less than
they are now.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.Bike Rentals
.c Bike Rentals
.c (Various people)
.a
.l
Lincoln Guide Service
Lincoln Center
Lincoln, MA
[phone]
Rents mountain, road, kids bikes, and trailers.
About 11 miles west of Boston, within sight of
Lincoln Center commuter rail stop.
.l 2
Team Bicycle Rentals
508 Main
Huntington Beach, CA
[phone]
12spd $29/day, MTB $29/day, Santana tandem $69
.l
Gregg's Greenlake
Seattle, WA
.l 2
Second Gear
Seattle, WA
.l 2
New York City Area:
All phone numbers are area code (212).
.l
A West Side Bicycle Store -- 231 W 96th St -- 663 7531
Eddie's Bicycles Shop -- 490 Amsterdam Ave -- 580 2011
Country Cycling Tours -- 140 W 83rd St -- 874 5151
AAA Central Park Bicycle Rentals -- 72nd St/ Central Pk Boathouse -- 861 4137
Midtown Bicycles -- 360 W 47th St -- 581 4500
Sixth Avenue Bicycles -- 546 Avenue of the Americas -- 255 5100
Metro Bicycle -- 1311 Lexington Ave -- 427 4450
Larry and Jeff's Bicycles Plus -- 204 E 85th St -- 794 2201
Gene's 79th Street Discounted Bicycles -- 242 E 79th St -- 249 9218
Peddle Pusher Bicycle Shop -- 1306 2nd Ave -- 288 5594
A Bicycle Discount House -- 332 E 14th St -- 228 4344
City Cycles -- 659 Broadway -- 254 4457
.l
San Francisco
.l
Park Cyclery -- 1865 Haight street (at Stanyan) -- 751-RENT
Start to Finish -- 599 2nd Street at Brannan -- 861-4004
.l
Marin County, CA
.l
Caesars Cyclery -- 29 San Anselmo Ave San Anselmo -- 258-9920
Far-go bike Shop -- 194 Northgate #1 Shopping Center San Rafael -- 472-0253
Ken's Bike and Sport -- 94 Main Street (Downtown Tiburon) -- 435-1683
Wheel Escapes -- 1000 Magnolia Ave Larkspur -- 461-6903
.l
Austing, TX area
.l
[all stores rent ONLY mountain bikes]
Bicycle Sport Shop -- 1426 Toomey Road -- [phone]
University Schwinn -- 2901 N. Lamar Blvd -- [phone]
University Schwinn -- 1542 W. Anderson Ln -- [phone]
Velotex Inc -- 908-B W 12th St -- [phone]
.f
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.Bike Lockers
.c Bike Lockers
.c (David H. Wolfskill  [e-mail])
.l
Many thanks to all who mailed or posted an interest in my quest for
information regarding bike locker vendors; I apologize for the delay in
posting this summary.
.l
My colleague -- thanks to some of that information -- was able to locate a
sufficiently nearby vendor... one of the requirements of which I had not
been aware was that the vendor must be fairly close (to Orange County, CA)
-- to minimize shipping charges. (I apologize for failing to determine this
issue before posting, and hope that some of the information about other
vendors may be of value to others.)
.l
I figured it would be more useful for me to organize the information, so I
have done so -- at the expense of making an attempt to give credit for the
sources at the point the information is quoted. (I include a list of
sources at the end of the article.)
.l
First, I received a few pointers to one Ellen Fletcher, such as:
.l
.a
>For a comprehensive treatment of the bicycle parking subject,
>along with a list of vendors & prices, contact Ellen Fletcher
>at cdp![e-mail] (put "ATTN ELLEN" in your
>"To" line.
.f
.l
[I requested clarification regarding addressing a note to Ms. Fletcher, but
have yet to receive it.]
.l
.a
>... Ellen Fletcher, 777-108 San Antonio Road, Palo Alto, CA
>94303-4826, 415-495-8943.
.f
.l
Fortunately, someone sent a list of products & manufacturers, apparently
originally compiled by Ms. Fletcher. I have taken the liberty of using that
list as a "base document" and have augmented it with other information I
received; entries are alphabetically by munufacturer's name, since I don't
always have product names:
.l
(Manufacturer, {Product Name(s)}, Address, Contact Person, Phone, FAX
[comments])
.l
American Bicycle Security Co., {BIKE SAFE}, PO Box 7359 Ventura, CA
93006, Thomas E. Volk, 805-933-3688 & 800-BIKESAF, 805-933-1865.
.l
Bike Lockers Company, {BikeLokr}, PO Box 445 W. Sacramento, CA 95691,,
916-372-6620, 916-372-3616 [approx. $300/locker, small
quantities].
.l
Bike-Lokr Mfg. Co., {?}, PO Box 123, Joplin, MO 64802, Jim Snyder,
417-673-1960/800-462-4049, 417-673-3642 [approx $450/locker,
which holds 2 bikes; seem to be the lockers used by the
Washington, DC Metro system]
.l
Bike Security Racks Co., {?}, PO Box 371, Cambridge, MA 02140,,
617-547-5755, -
.l
Bike Stable Co., Inc., {?}, PO 1402, South Bend, Indiana 46624,,
219-233-7060, -
.l
Cycle-Safe Inc., 2772-5 Woodlake Rd. SW Wyoming, MI 49509,,
[phone] -
.l
David O'Keefe Company, {Super Secure Bike Stor}, P.O. Box 4457, Alamo,
CA 94507, Thomas & David O'Keefe, 415-637-4440, 415-837-6234.
.l
General Machine company, {Bicycle Locker}, PO Box 405 Vacaville, CA 95696,
Vitto Accardi, 707-446-2761, -
.l
J.G.Wilson Corp, {Park'n'Lock Bike Garage}, PO Box 599, Norfolk, VA
23501-0599, J.L.Bevan, 804-545-8341, 804-543-3249.
.l
Sunshine U-LOK Corp., {Secura Bike Locker}, 31316 Via Colinas Suite 102,
Westlake Village, CA 91362, Doug Devine, 818-707-0110.
[Specific information near the end of the article -- dhw.]
.l
Turtle Storage Ltd., {?}, P. O. Box 7359, Ventura, CA 93006,,, -
.l
[Ed. note: The complete posting is available in the archives on
draco.acs.uci.edu.]
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.Bike computer features
.c Bike computer features
.l
[This table was created from information contained in Performance and
Nashbar catalogs. In the table below, 'Y' means that the computer has
the feature, 'O' means it is an optional feature.]
.l
.a
                 Speed  Ave   Max  Total Trip  Elpsd Clock Auto  Count
                       Speed Speed Miles Miles Time        OnOff Down
Avocet 30          Y           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Avocet 40          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Avocet 50          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Micro       Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Mity        Y           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Mity 2      Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Wireless    Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Vectra      Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye ATC         Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Ciclo 37           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y           Y     Y
Ciclo IIA          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y                 Y     Y
Performance ITV    Y                 Y     Y     Y           Y     Y
Vetta Innovator    Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta HR1000       Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta C-10         Y           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta C-15         Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta C-20         Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta Two          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta Wireless     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Specialized        Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     S
   Speed Zone
.l
                 Cadence Wireless Altitude Heart
                                           Rate
Avocet 30
Avocet 40
Avocet 50          O                 Y
Cateye Micro       Y
Cateye Mity
Cateye Mity 2
Cateye Wireless             Y
Cateye Vectra
Cateye ATC
Ciclo 37
Ciclo IIA          O                 O       O
Performance ITV
Vetta Innovator
Vetta HR1000                                 Y
Vetta C-10
Vetta C-15
Vetta C-20         Y
Vetta Two          Y
Vetta Wireless              Y
Specialized
   Speed Zone
.f
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.Recumbents
.c Recumbent Bike Info
.c (David Wittenberg  [e-mail])
.c (updated by Gary Walsh  [e-mail])
.l
Here's my standard response to questions about recumbents. I'd be happy
to answer more specific questions.
.l
Here's some info I posted in the fall of 1990. I think it's still pretty
much up to date. 1Changes from the last posting are in []'s.
.l
--David Wittenberg
.l
A few words about recumbent design, and then I'll provide a much larger
list of recumbent manufacturers.
.l
There are three main choices in designing (or buying) a recumbent. Frame
material -- all the ones I know of are either Alumninum or Steel.
Wheelbase --  The front wheel can either be in front of the bottom
bracket (long wheelbase) or behind it (short wheelbase). You can't have
a medium wheelbase without a lot of extra work because the wheel and the
bottom bracket would interfere with each other. Long wheelbase is
reputed to be a bit more stable, while short wheelbase machines are
often easier to fit into cars for transport. Some long wheelbase
recumbents fold in neat ways to fit into a remarkably small space.
Handlebars -- under seat or in front of the rider. Under seat is
probably a more comfortable position when you get used to it (your hands
just hang at your sides), and may be somewhat safer if you get thrown
forward as there is nothing in front of you. High handlebars are
somewhat faster as your arms are in front of you instead of at your
side, thus reducing the frontal area. Some people find them more
natural. [There are long wheelbase bikes with both high and low
handlebars. I don't know of any short wheelbase, low handlebar
recumbents, but there may be some I don't know of.]
.l
The following updated by Gary Walsh ([e-mail]) July 1992.
.l
There are a couple of interesting publications for recumbents:
.l
.a
International Human Powered Vehicle Association
P.O. Box 51255
Indianapolis, IN  46251  USA
.f
.l
They publish Human Power Magazine and HPV News on all aspects of human
powered transportation (bikes, aircraft, watercraft.) Dues are
US$25/year in the U.S., Canada, and Mexico, and US$30 elsewhere.
.l
.a
The Recumbent Bicycle Club of America/Recumbent Cyclist Magazine
17650-B6-140th Ave. SE, Suite 341
Renton, WA 98058  USA
.f
.l
The best source of information on commercially available recumbents.
Read the reviews in this magazine before you buy your first recumbent.
Subscriptions are US$20/year Bulk or US$25/year First Class, in the
U.S.A., and US$30/year elsewhere. Sample issue and info pack $5. See
especially the buyers guide in issue #8 Oct-Dec 1992.
.l 2
.a
Addresses of recumbent manufacturers:
.l
Ace Tool & Engineering  (Infinity Recumbent)  $1 for a flyer
P.O Box 325
292 W. Harrison St.
Mooresville, IN  46158
[phone]     Long wheelbase, low handlebars, aluminum frames.
                   $499 + $85 for triple crank option.
                   Information $1.
.l
Alternative Bikestyles
P.O. Box 1344
Bonita, CA 91908
Phone [phone]
                   Maverick $ Renegade LWB recumbents with upright
                   handlebars. Framesets from $200. Complete bikes
                   from $395.
.l
Advanced Transportation Products
550 3rd Ave. N.
Edmonds, WA 98020
Phone [phone]       R-20 SWB. $1350. Info pack $2.
.l
Angle Lake Cyclery
20840 Pacific Hwy S.
Seattle WA 98198
Phone [phone]
                   Counterpoint Presto SWB with upright handlebars.
                       Presto SE Tour $1699.
                       Presto SE High Performance $???.
                       Presto CL $1399.
                   Counterpoint Opus IV Tandem
                       Opus CL $2999
                       Opus SE $3599
                       Tri Com Trikes $600-$700.
                       Catalogue $2
.l
Original Car-Cycle Technology
1311 Victoria Ave.
Victoria, B.C.,
Canada V8S 4P4
Phone [phone]    Fully fared commuter trike. Under development.
.l
DH Recumbents, Inc.
4007-G Bellaire Blvd.
Houston, TX 77025
Phone [phone]      LWB with upright steering.
                         DH1000 $999, DH5000 $1395.
.l
Earth Traveller
1475 Lillian St.
Livermore, CA 94550
Phone [phone]      LWB trike with 2 wheels in back.
                         Information $1.
.l
EcoCycle
Earth Friendly Transportation
5755 NW Fair Oaks Dr.
Corvallis, OR  97330
[phone]         The Trice is a recumbent tricycle, with
                       two wheels in front. Touring $1495.
                       Speed model $1595.
                       Also imports Ross recumbent from England.
                       $2 for flyer, $9 for video tape.
.l
Easy Racers, Inc
Box 255H
Freedom, CA  95019
[phone]         High handlebar, long wheelbase bikes.
                       Easy Racer $2300. Frameset $1650.
                       Gold Rush Replica, commercial version of
                       the Dupont prize winning Gold Rush (world's
                       fastest bike) also available.
                       $2 for a catalog
.l
Lightning Cycle Dynamics
312 Ninth Street
Lompoc,   CA  93436
[phone]            P-38 Short Wheelbase, high handlebars.
                          Full fairings are available, and very
                          fast. $1750.
                          F-40 fully fared version.
.l
Lightning Cycle Inc. (Tailwind)        $1 for a brochure
3819 Rte. 295
Swanton, OH  43558
[phone]            Steel long wheelbase, underseat steering.
                          Around $1200.
.l
Linear Manufacturing Inc.  (Linear)
Route 1, Box 173
Guttenberg,  IA  52052
[phone]           Long Wheelbase aluminum bike with either
                         high or low handlebars  (You can convert
                         from one to the other.)  $900 to $1200.
                         They sell through dealers, and if you
                         get in touch with them they'll tell you
                         where the nearest dealer is. Canadians
                         see S.C. Safety Cycle below.
.l
Rans Recumbents
1104 E. Hwy. 40 Bypass
Hays,  KS  67601
[phone]          Rans Stratus A & B and Nimbus. LWB with
                        upright handlebars. $995-$1495.
.l
ReBike
P.O Box 725
Boca Raton, FL 33429
Phone [phone]    The ReBike. A low priced semi-recumbent
                       with upright steering. New and a big seller.
                       $389.
.l
Rotator
915 Middle Rincon Rd.
Santa Rosa,  CA  95409
[phone]          Rotator Super-7 Streamliner - LWB with 20" wheels.
                        Rotator Companion Tandem.
.l
Rhoades International
100 Rhoades Lane
Hendersonville, TN 37075
Phone [phone]     4-wheel pedal car. $999 and up.
                        Information $4. Video $19.
.l
Ryan Recumbents, Inc.
3910 Stewart Rd., Unit F
Eugene, Or 97402
[phone]           Vanguard. Long wheelbase, underseat steering.
                        From $1295.
.l
S.C. Safety Cycle Inc.
1340B St. Paul St.
Kelowna, B.C.
Canada V1Y 2E1          Canadian distributor of the Linear which is
                        sold as "The Alternative."  CAN$1495.
.l
Special Purpose Vehicles
120 Prospect Street
Somerville, MA 02143
[phone]
.l
Thebis International
110-2031 Malaview Ave.
Sidney, B.C.
Canada V8L 3X9
Phone [phone]
1-800-667-6801         Thebis 201 Touring Trike. Two wheels in back.
                       $2990.
.l
Trailmate
2359 Trailmate Dr.
Sarasota FL 34243
Phone [phone]     Fun Cycle and Bannana Peel trikes. $399.
.l
Turner Enterprises
P.O.Box 36158
Los Angeles, CA 90036
Phone [phone]       SWB with underseat steering.
                       Laid Back "E" frame kit $375.
                       LB-2000  $1500. Frameset $899.
.l
Zzip Designs
P.O. Box 14
Davenport, CA 95017
Phone [phone]    Manufacturer of fairings for many of the
                       bikes listed above.
.l
Cyclopedia
P.O. Box 884
Adrian, MI 49221
1-800-678-1021         Good source for parts for builders.
----------------
European Recumbents
.l
Leitra APS
PO Box 64 DK-2750
Ballerup, Denmark      Leitra M2 fully fared commuter trike.
                       3400 DM for the trike.
                       5845 DM for complete vehicle with accessories.
.l
Bas Ten Brinke
Postbus 10075
1301 Almere,
Netherlands            Flevo SWB front wheel drive.
.l
Fateba, Bachman & Co.
Rosenstr. 9,
8400 Winterthur
Switzerland            Fateba Winglet L1  LWB.
.l
Kincycle
Miles Kingsbury
Lane End Road, Sands,
High Wycombe, Bucks
HP12 4JQ England       The Kingcycle SWB.
.l
M5
Bram Moens
Waalstraat 41,
NL-4335 KL
Middleburg, Netherlands.   M5 SWB.
.l
Neatwork
The Lees Stables
Coldstream, Berwickshire,
Scotland TD12-4NN          Dealer for Kingcycle SWB and Radius
                           Peer Gynt LWB.
.l
Radius-Spezialrader,
Frie-Vendt-Str 16, D-4400
Munster, Germany RFA       Peer Gynt LWB with underseat steering.
.f
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.More Recumbent Bike Info
.c More Recumbent Bike Info
.c (Gary Walsh  [e-mail])
.l
[This has been copied from a flyer written by Robert Bryant of the Recumbent
Cyclist Magazine. He has given me permission to submit it for the FAQ. -
Gary]
.l
.c Have You Ever Considered a RECUMBENT BICYCLE?
.l
WHY RECUMBENT BICYCLES?
.i 5
There are many reasons to consider a recumbent. First and foremost is
comfort. When you ride a recumbent bicycle you will no longer have an
aching back, stiff neck, numb wrists or a sore a sore bottom. You will sit
in a relaxed easy-chair position. You will be able to ride longer with less
fatigue and arrive at your destination feeling refreshed. The recumbent
position offerd you a great view of the countryside. While seated you will
look straight ahead. This allows your lungs and chest more open and free
breathing. Recumbents are very versatile machines. They can be used for a
wide range of applications: recreational/sport riding, for the daily
commute, a fast double century and they are great for long distance touring.
.l
RECUMBENT PERFORMANCE
.i 5
Recumbents hold all of the human-powered speed records. This is because
they are aerodynamically superior to conventional bicycles; less frontal
area means less wind resistance. The Lightning F-40 currently holds the
Race Across America speed record of five days and one hour. Gardner
Martin's Easy Racer Gold Rush, ridden by Fast Freddie Markham, was the
winner of the Dupont Prize for breaking 65mph. You can currently buy
production versions of these bicycles. Fairings for street use are common
and optional equipment on most commercially built models. They protect you
from rain, cold and wind, with up to a 30% reduction in drag. Commercially
available recumbents are not always faster than conventional bicycles. It
depends mainly on the individual rider. Your best bet is to do you homework
and if your goal is performance and speed, be sure that you look for a
recumbent designed for this purpose.
.l
COMMONLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT RECUMBENT BICYCLES
.b
1) Do recumbents climb hills well? Yes they do, although climbing on a
recumbent requires a different technique, you must gear down and spin.
Maintaining an efficient spin takes some practice & conditioning, once
mastered, it takes less physical effort to climb hills. Depending on your
riding style, your speeds can range from slowwer to even faster than on a
conventional bicycle.
.b
2) Can recumbents be seen in traffic? Recumbents with a higher seating
position may be better suited for riding in traffic than some of the
low-slung designs. The use of use of proper safety devices such as safety
flags and reflective devices is recommended. Recumbent bicycles are
different, futuristic and they get noticed. Many riders feel they get more
respect from motorists while on their recumbents.
.b
3) Are they safe? Recumbent's are safer than a conventional bicycle. Due to
the low centre of gravity, they stop faster. Brakes can be evenly applied
to both wheels simultaneously providing more traction without throwing the
rider over the handlebars. In crash situations, the rider goes down to the
side absorbing the impact with the hip and leg rather than flying over the
handlebars and absorbing the impact on your head and shoulder. Straight
ahead vision is also better on a recumbent, however, rear view mirrors are
necessary for proper rearward vision.
.l
RECUMBENT PAST HISTORY
.i 5
Why are recumbents such a rare sight? Space age technology? New type of
bicycle? Not really, recumbent bicycles actually go back as far as the mid
to late 1800's with the Macmillan Velocopede and the Challand Recumbent. In
the 1930's, a series of events took place that changed bicycling history. A
French second category professional track cyclist named Francois Faure rode
the Velocar, a two wheeled recumbent bicycle designed and built by Charles
Mochet, to record-shattering speeds, breaking both the mile and kilometre
records of the day. This created a storm of controversy within the U.C.I.
(United Cycliste International), bicycle rating's governing body. The
debate centred on whether the Velocar was a bicycle and were these records
legal? In 1934 they ruled against the Mochet-Faure record, banning
recumbent bicycles and aerodynamic devices from racing. Were U.C.I. members
worried that the recumbent bicycle would displace the conventional design?
Did they realize this would freeze bicycle and human-powered vehicle
development for the next forty years? This is why bicycles of taday look
very similar to the Starkey and Sutton Safety (upright/conventional) of
1885. Just think where bicycle technology would be today if the U.C.I.
decision had gone the opposite way.
.l
MODERN RECUMBENT HISTORY
.i 5
Recumbent development was fairly quiet until the late 1960's. Dan Henry
received some media attention for his long wheelbase design in 1968. In the
early 1970's, the human-powered revolution was starting up on both the U.S.
east coast by David Gordon, designer of the Avatar, and on the west coast by
Chester Kyle. These pioneers recognized the need for further development of
human-powered vehicles. In the late 1970's and early 1980's, this lead to
the first commercial recumbent bicycle designs such as the Avatar, Easy
Racer and Hypercycle. In 1990, the Recumbent Bicycle Club of America was
founded by Dick Ryan who currently manufactures the Ryan Vanguard and was
also involved with the Avatar project in the early 1980's. In 1988
recumbent promoter Robert Bryant got his start writing "Recumbent
Ramblings," a column for "HPV News." In the summer of 1990, Robert founded
the "Recumbent Cyclist Magazine," and in a short two years, RCM has become
the source for recumbent bicyle information in the world today.
.l
SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION
.l
.a
RECUMBENT CYCLIST MAGAZINE
17560-B6-140th Ave SE, Ste 341
Renton WA 98058
.l
__$2 Info-Pak/recumbent manufacturer list
__$5 Current sample issue with info-pak/list
__$20 USA Bulk Mail Subscription
__$25 USA First Class Mail Subscription Rush Service
__$30 Canada Air Mail
__$35 Worldwide Air Mail (USA funds) (anywhere outside USA/CAN)
__$50 Junior Supporter (includes 3 copies of each issue, mailed first
    class
__$100 RBCA Supporter (includes 10 copies of each issue mailed Priority)
.l 2
BACK ISSUE ORDERING INFO
.l
-Back issues are mailed 3rd class postage. (allow 4 weeks for delivery.)
-First Class Mail/Rush Service - add $.50 per issue.
-Canadian Air Mail/Rush Service - add $1.00 per issue.
-Worldwide Air Mail - add $2.00 per issue.
-Super-Rush Service? We can do FEDEX overnight C.O.D.
.l
$4.00  __RC#2  Flevo & CSPC "Poor Man's Composite"
$4.00  __RC#3  DH5000 LWB Road Test
$4.00  __RC#4  Ryan Vanguard Road Test/F-40/Flevo
$4.00  __RC#5  Linear LWB Road Test/Omega HPV/HPV Design Info
$4.50  __RC#6  Easy Racer Road Test
$4.50  __RC#7  Lightning P-38 Road Test
$4.50  __RC#8  1992 Recumbent Buyers Guide
$4.50  __RC#9  A.T.P. R-20 SWB Road Test
$4.50  __RC#10 Thebis Trike Road Test
$4.50  __RC#11 Counterpoint Presto Road Test
$4.50  __RC#12 Rans Road Test (available 9/92)
$4.50  __RC#13 Trice Road Test (Available 11/92)
$4.50  __RC#14 (Available 1/93)
$4.50  __RC#14 (Available 3/93)
$4.50  __RC#15 (Available 5/93)
.f
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Market.Buying a Bike
.c Buying a Bike
.l
One thing to decide before buying a bike is what type to buy. Here's a
brief list:
.l
Road bike
.b
Once known as a "ten-speed", most are now 12 or 14 (or even 16) speed.
There are several sub-types: racing, sport, and touring, the difference
mostly in frame geometry.
.l
ATB
.b
All-terrain bike, also known as mountain bike. Great for riding in the
dirt, these bikes usually have fat, knobby tires for traction in dirt and
gravel.
l
Hybrid
.b
A bike that borrows from road bikes and ATBs. For example, they have the
light frame and 700c wheels of road bikes and fat knobby tires, triple
cranks, wide-range derailleurs, flat handlebars and cantilever brakes from
mountain bikes.
.l 2
Bike buying hints
.l
When you're ready to buy a bike, you should first decide what you want to
use the bike for. Do you want to race? Do you want to pedal along
leisurely? Do you want to ride in the dirt?
.l
Next, you should decide on a price range. Plan to spend at least $350 for a
decent quality bike.
.l
Now find a good bike shop. Ask friends who bike. Ask us here on the net.
Chances are, someone here lives in your area and can recommend a shop.
.l
Now that you are ready to look for a bike, visit the shop(s) you have
selected. Test ride several bikes in your price range. How does it feel?
Does it fit you? How does it shift? Does it have the features you are
looking for? How do the shop personnel treat you? Remember that the shop
gets the bike disassembled and has to spend a couple of hours putting it
together and adjusting things, so look for sloppy work (If you see some, you
may want to try another shop). You might want to try a bike above your
price range to see what the differences are (ask the salesperson).
.l
Ask lots of questions - pick the salesperson's brain. If you don't ask
questions, they may recommend a bike that's not quite right for you. Ask
about places to ride, clubs, how to take care of your bike, warranties, etc.
Good shops will have knowledgable people who can answer your questions.
Some shops have free or low-cost classes on bike maintenance; go and learn
about how to fix a flat, adjust the brakes and derailleurs, overhaul your
bike, etc. Ask your questions here - there are lots of people here just
waiting for an excuse to post!
.l
Make sure that the bike fits you. If you don't, you may find that you'll be
sore in places you never knew could be so sore. For road bikes, you should
be able to straddle the top tube with your feet flat on the ground and still
have about 1 inch of clearance. For mountain bikes, give yourself at least
2-3 inches of clearance. You may need a longer or shorter stem or cranks
depending on your build - most bikes are setup for "average" bodies. The
bike shop can help you with adjustments to the handlebars and seat.
.l
Now that you've decided on a bike, you need some accessories. You should
consider buying
.l
.a
   a helmet
   a frame pump
   a tube repair kit
   tire levers (plastic)
   a pressure gauge
   a seat pack (for repair kit, wallet, keys, etc)
   gloves
   a water bottle and cage
   a lock
.f
.l
The shop can help you select these items and install them on your bike.
.E
.!===========================================================================
.T Tech.Technical Support Numbers
.c Technical Support Numbers
.c (Joshua Putnam  [e-mail])
.l
[This list is now in the ftp archives as it is too long to put here]
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Ball Bearing Grades
.c Ball Bearing Grades
.c (Bill Codding  [e-mail])
.c (Harry Phinney [e-mail])
.l
Following is a description of the different grades of ball bearings. The
grade specifies the sphericity of the balls in millionths of an inch. Thus,
grade 25 are round to 25/10^6, while grade 1000 are good to 1/1000 (i.e.
not all that round, but probably good enough for our uses).
.l
Grade 25: the highest quality normally available, aka "Campagnolo quality":
hardened all the way through, best alloys, coatings, roundness, and
durability. Evidently, a recent bottom-bracket overhaul article in
"Bicycling Plus Mountain Bike" magazine recommended these. Campy's tech
reps claim that the bearings in a set (usually in a little paper bag) are
matched. One should not mix bearings from different sets.
.l
Grade 200: mid-range
.l
Grade 1000: seems to be the lowest, may only be surface hardened.
.l
Good sources for ball bearings:
.l
.a
Your local bike shop (make sure you're getting the grade you want)
Bike Parts Pacific
Bike Nashbar  1-800-NASHBAR    ($1-$3 per 100 Grade 25)
The Third Hand 1-916-926-2600  ($4-$7 per 100 Grade 25)
.f
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.SIS Cable Info
.c SIS Cable Info
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
After Joe Gorin described the SIS "non-compressive" cable housing to me I
got myself a sample to understand what the difference is. I believe
"non-compressive" is a misnomer. This cable housing is NOT non-compressive
but rather a constant length housing. As far as I can determine, and from
reports from bike shops, this housing should not be used for brakes because
it is relatively weak in compression, the principal stress for brake
housing.
.l
SIS housing is made of 18 strands of 0.5mm diameter round spring steel wire
wrapped in a 100mm period helix around a 2.5mm plastic tube. The assembly
is held together by a 5mm OD plastic housing to make a relatively stiff
cable housing. Because the structural wires lie in a helix, the housing
length remains constant when bent in a curve. Each strand of the housing
lies both on the inside and outside of the curve so on the average the wire
path length remains constant, as does the housing centerline where the
control cable resides. Hence, no length change. A brake cable housing, in
contrast, changes length with curvature because only the inside of the curve
remains at constant length while the outside (and centerline) expands.
.l
Shimano recommends this cable only for shift control but makes no special
effort to warn against the danger of its use for brakes. It should not be
used for anything other than shift cables because SIS housing cannot safely
withstand compression. Its wires stand on end and have no compressive
strength without the stiff plastic housing that holds them together. They
aren't even curved wires, so they splay out when the outer shield is
removed. Under continuous high load of braking, the plastic outer housing
can burst leaving no support. Besides, in its current design it is only
half as flexible as brake cable because its outer shell is made of
structurally stiff plastic unlike the brake cable housing that uses a soft
vinyl coating.
.l
Because brake cables transmit force rather than position, SIS cable, even if
safe, would have no benefit. In contrast, with handlebar controls to give
precise shift positioning, SIS housing can offer some advantage since the
cable must move though steering angles. SIS housing has no benefit for
downtube attached shifters because the cable bends do not change.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Milk Jug Mud Flaps
.c Milk Jug Mud Flaps
.c (Chuck Tryon  [e-mail])
.l
Actually, I have used plastic like this (or in my case, some red plastic
from a cheap note book cover -- it's heavier) to extend the bottom (rear)
end of the front fender. The Zephals are good, but they don't stop the
splash from where the tire hits the road from getting on my feet. What I
did was cut a small triangle about 3in (~7cm) wide by 6in (~15cm) long, cut
a hole in the top of it and the bottom end of the fender, and use a
pop-rivet (with washers to prevent tear out) to attach it. On a road bike,
it should be end up being within a few inches of the road. ATB's will need
more clearance, so this won't work well off road.
.l
.a
        |   |
        |   |
       /| o |\   <----- rivet with washer on inside
      | \___/ |
      /       \   <---- flap fits inside of the fender, and follows the
     |         |        curve, which gives it some stiffness.
     |         |
     |         |
     \_________/
         | |
         | |     <----- bottom of tire
         \_/
.f
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Lubricating Chains
.c Lubricating Chains
.l
Lubricating chains is a somewhat religious issue. Some advocate oil, some
Teflon-base lubricants, some paraffin wax. The net majority favors a
lubricant that does not leave an oily coating on the chain that can attract
dirt, which will hasten chain/chainring/freewheel sprocket wear.
.l
If you want to use paraffin wax, make sure you melt the wax in a double
boiler! Failure to do so can lead to a fire. You can use a coffee can in a
pan of boiling water if you don't want to mess up good cookware. After the
wax has melted, put the chain in the wax and simmer for 10 minutes or so.
Remove the chain, hang it up, and wipe the excess wax off. Let it cool and
reinstall on your bike.
.l
When using a liquid lubricant, you want to get the lube onto the pins inside
the rollers on the chains, not on the outside where it does little good.
Oilers with the narrow tubes are good for this because you can put the lube
where you want it. Work the oil into the chain after applying it, wipe the
chain off, and reinstall on your bike.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Wear and Gear Slippage
.c Wear and Gear Slippage
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
There seems to be a lot of speculation on what makes chains wear and how to
lubricate a chain. There are a number of ways to take care of a chain. Of
these, some traditional methods are the most damaging to chain life and
others work to prolong life.
.l
As was mentioned on the net, chains don't stretch in the sense that the
metal elongates, but the parts wear. Wear in the pins and sleeves change
the length of the chain as the pins fit more loosely. The wear arises
primarily from road grit that enters the chain when it is oiled. Grit on
the outside of a chain is the ugly black stuff that gets on your leg. This
dirt has no effect on chain function because it can't get inside to do
damage. Only when a dirty chain is oiled does this grit get to the place
where it can cause damage. Note that commercial abrasive grinding paste is
made of oil and silicon dioxide (sand) and silicon carbide (sand). You
couldn't do a better job if you tried to destroy a chain than to oil a road
dirt (previously oiled) encrusted chain.
.l
Primitive rule #1: Never oil a chain on the bike.
.l
This means you should clean the grit off the chain before oiling it. Because
this is essentially impossible without submerging the chain in a solvent
bath (kerosene or commercial solvent), you must take the chain off the bike.
The fine grit can only be removed from the interior of the chain in liquid
suspension. A good example of this can be seen by using a Vetta (on the
bike) chain cleaner and subsequently cleaning the same chain in a solvent
bath. The best grit remains until last and there's plenty of it. Of course
it isn't always possible to remove a chain and there are times (in the rain)
when a chain screams for oil when a good cleaning is not an option.
.l
Removing the solvent from the chain after the rinse is important. Compressed
air is not readily available in the household nor is a centrifuge. You can
go outdoors and sling the chain around. This works best if the chain is a
closed loop. You don't have to press the pin completely in for this. The
other way is to evaporate it. You should probably avoid accelerated drying
methods because they could be explosive.
.l
The hot gear lube method works but it also acts as efficient fly paper,
collecting plenty of grime between cogs. Motor oil is good but motorcycle
chain lubricants are better because they have volatile solvents that allow
good penetration for their relatively viscous lubricant. Paraffin works
poorly because it is not mobile and cannot replenish the bearing surface
once it has been displaced.
.l
Sedisport
.l
The Sedisport chain, although the strongest and one of the lightest chains,
achieves its light weight at the expense of durability. This chain has no
sleeve that on most roller chains supports the roller on its outside and
furnishes the bearing for the pin on the inside. Normally the inside of the
sleeve is well protected against lubricant depletion because both ends are
covered by closely fitting side plates. In the Sedisport there is no sleeve
and the formed side plates support the roller and pin with a substantial
central gap. In the wet, lubricant is quickly washed out of pin and roller
and the inferior bearing for the pin and roller often gall and bind. In
good weather this may not be a problem. Because this chain has feet of clay
in the wet, Sedis re-introduced their earlier 5 element conventional chain,
calling it a "chain for all seasons".
.l
The lightweight Regina chain goes one step farther and omits the pin,
leaving the side plates to hinge directly on the sleeve. This gives them a
knife edge bearing area that galls at the slightest lube depletion.
.l
Chain Life
.l
This is almost entirely a cleanliness and lubrication question rather than a
load problem. The effect of load variations is insignificant when compared
to the lube and grit effects for bicycles. The primary chains on
motorcycles are operated under clean conditions and last years while the
exposed rear chains must be replaced often.
.l
The only way to test whether a chain is worn is by measurement. The chain
has a half inch pitch and, when new, has a pin at exactly every half inch.
As the pins and sleeves wear this spacing increases and becomes damaging to
sprockets. When the chain pitch grows over one half percent it is time for
a new chain. At one percent chainring damage progresses rapidly. By
holding a ruler along the chain on your bike, align an inch mark with a pin
and see how far off the mark the pin is at twelve inches. An eighth of an
inch (0.125) is the ten percent limit while more than a sixteenth is a
prudent time to get a new chain.
.l
Skipping Chain
.l
When you put on a new chain, its pitch is exactly one half inch. A
sprocket, worn by a longer pitch (worn) chain, has hooked teeth. The hooked
profile is formed by the rollers of a worn chain as they exit the sprocket
under load. Rollers of a new chain with correct pitch exit under no load
because the load is transferred to the next roller before disengagement.
However, with hooked sprockets the new chain cannot engage under load
because the pitch is too small to get over the hook and into the pocket.
These differences are only a few thousandths of an inch but that is enough
to prevent engagement when the previous roller is fully engaged.
.l
As a chain wears it concentrates more of its load on the last tooth of a
sprocket before disengagement because its pitch no longer matches the pitch
of the sprocket. This effect sometimes breaks off sprocket teeth. The load
concentration on the sprocket also accelerates wear and is another reason to
replace a chain at 1/16th inch wear.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Adjusting Chain Length
.c Adjusting Chain Length
.c (Bob Fishell  [e-mail])
.l
For all Shimano SIS and Hyperglide systems, the chain is sized by shifting
to the smallest rear cog and the largest front sprocket, then sizing the
chain so that the derailleur pulleys are on a vertical line, or as close as
you can get to it. Note that this will result in the same chain length for
any freewheel within the capacity of the derailleur, so it usually is not
necessary to re-size the chain for a different cogset with these systems.
.l
The other rule I've used (friction systems) involves shifting to the largest
chainring and the largest rear cog, then sizing the chain so that the
pulleys are at a 45 degree angle to the ground.
.l
The rules probably vary from derailleur to derailleur. In general, you may
use the capacity of the rear derailleur cage as a guideline. You want the
chain short enough so the cage can take up the slack in the smallest
combination of chainwheel and rear cog you will use. The chain must also be
long enough so that the cage still has some travel in the largest
combination you will use.
.l
For example, if you have a 42x52 crank and a 13x21 freewheel, the smallest
combination you would use would be a 42/14 (assuming you don't use the
diagonal). If the cage can take up the slack in this combo, it's short
enough. If the cage has spring left when you are in the 52/19 combo (again,
you are not using the diagonal), it's long enough.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Hyperglide chains
.c Hyperglide chains
.c (Mark Chandler  [e-mail])
.l
For those of you that are tired of dealing with Shimano's chains with
the special pins, I've found that the following chains work well with
Shimano Hyperglide gearing systems:
.l
DID SuperShift
.b
Sedis ATB
.b
Union 800
.b
Union 915
.l
The SuperShift is probably the best performer of the bunch, followed by
the ATB and 915. The 800 doesn't do too well with narrow cogsets (i.e.,
8-speeds) because the raised elliptical bumps on the side-plates tend to
rub on the adjacent cogs.
.l
I've also found that these chains work well on SunTour systems. The 915,
however, works better on PowerFlo cogs than it does on regular
(AccuShift) cogs (where it tends to slip when shifting).
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Cranks and Bottom Brackets
.c Bottom Bracket Info
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
The four kinds of BB threads in common use today are Italian, British,
French, and Swiss, possibly in that order of occurrence.
.l
.a
           Diameter   Pitch    Right Left Cup
           --------   -----    ----- -----
Italian    36mm   x   24F tpi  right right     tpi (threads per inch)
British    1.370" x   24F tpi  left  right
French     35mm   x   1mm      right right
Swiss      35mm   x   1mm      left  right
.f.
.l
Unless there is something wrong with the right hand cup it should not be
removed but should be wiped clean and greased from the left side. The
thread type is usually marked on the face of both left and right cups. Swiss
threads are rare but if you have one it is good to know before attempting
removal.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Crank noises
.c Crank noises
.c (Phil Etheridge  [e-mail])
.l
I've had the creaky crank problem on every bike I've owned which has had
cotterless cranks. Until now, I've never known a good solution to the
problem.
.l
One suggestion I had was to replace the crank, but that wasn't something I
was prepared to do on 1 month old bike under warranty. The shop mechanic
spent half an hour with me and my bike sorting it out. Tightening the crank
bolts and pedal spindle (i.e. onto the crank) didn't help (as Jobst will
tell you).
.l
Removing each crank, smearing the spindle with grease and replacing the
crank eliminated most of the noise. Removing each pedal, smearing grease on
the thread and replacing it got rid of the rest of the noise.
.l
Greasing the pedal threads is a new one on me, but it makes a lot of sense,
since they are steel and the crank aluminum. I thought it was worth
relating this story, as creaky cranks seems to be quite a common problem.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Cracking/Breaking Crankarms
.c Cracking/Breaking Crankarms
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
[Ed note: Yes, another disputed issue is contained here - whether to lube
the crank tapers before installing the crankarms. This has popped up from
time to time on rec.bicycles, and has never been resolved one way or the
other. The text here is Jobst's viewpoint.]
.l
Cranks break because they are aluminum and because they have high stress at
various points. The worst of these points are at the pedal eye and where
the spider fingers join the right crank. The pedal eye is a bad place
because the joint is incorrectly designed, but since it is a standard, it
may not be changed since it seems to work. This joint always moves and
causes fretting corrosion and cracks. These cracks propagate into the crank
and cause failure. A better joint here would be a 45 degree taper instead of
a flat shoulder at the end of the pedal thread.
.l
The thin web between the spider and crank, another common crack origin on
cranks like the Campagnolo Record, was nicely redesigned in the C-Record
crank, but to make up for that the C-Record is otherwise weaker than the
Record version. My experience is that they break in about 1500 miles
because the pedal eye has a smaller cross section than the Record model, but
maybe the alloy is poorer too. I have subsequently used Dura Ace cranks for
more than two years with no failure yet. I don't believe in eternal life
here either.
.l
Aluminum has no safe fatigue limit but just gets progressively safer as
stress is reduced. In contrast, steel has a threshold below which failures
cease. Therein lies some of the problem.
.l
As for cranks loosening, one can view the junction between spindle and crank
in an exaggerated elastic model where the spindle is made of plastic and the
crank of Rubbermaid household rubber. The crank, once properly installed
and the retaining bolt in place, squirms on the square taper when under
torque. During these deformations the crank can move only in one direction
because the bolt prevents it from coming off. The crank always slides
farther up the taper. Proof that the crank squirms is given by the fretting
rouge always found on the spindle, whether lubricated or not, when a crank
is pulled off after substantial use.
.l
As was mentioned by various observers, the left crank bolt is usually
looser, after use, than the right one and this could be anticipated because
the two cranks differ in their loading. This does not mean the left crank
is looser. Actually it is tighter, only the bolt is looser. The left crank
is more heavily loaded because it experiences offset twist from the pedal at
the same time it transmits torque to the spindle. The right crank, being
connected to the chain, experiences either spindle torque from the left
pedal or twist from the right pedal but not torque and twist at the same
time.
.l
In this squirming mode, cranks wander away from the retaining bolt and leave
it loose after the first hard workout (for riders of more than 150 lbs).
The bolts should NOT be re-tightened because they were correctly tight when
installed. Cranks have been split in half from repeated follow-up
tightening, especially left cranks. The spindle should be lubricated before
installing cranks. A wipe of a mechanic's finger is adequate since this is
to prevent galling in the interface. To prevent losing a loose crank bolt,
the "dust" cover that is in fact the lock cap should be installed.
.l
Those who have had a crank spindle break, can attest to the greater stress
on the left side because this is the end that always breaks from fatigue. A
fatigue crack generally has a crystalline appearance and usually takes
enough time to develop that the face of the fracture oxidizes so that only
the final break is clean when inspected. Because a notch acts to
concentrate stress, the advancing crack amplifies this effect and
accelerates the advance once the crack has initiated.
.l
I have heard of instructions to not lubricate spindles before installing
cranks but I have never been able to find it in any manufacturer's printed
material. Although I have broken many Campagnolo cranks, none has ever
failed at the spindle. I am certain that the standard machine practice of
lubricating a taper fit has no ill effects. I have also never had a crank
come loose nor have I re-tightened one once installed.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Biopace chainrings
.c Biopace chainrings
.l
Biopace chainrings have fallen into disfavor in recent years. They are hard
to "pedal in circles". The early Biopace chainrings were designed for
cadences of around 50-70 rpm, while most recommend a cadence of 80-100 rpm.
Newer Biopace chainrings are less elliptical, but the general consensus is
to (if you are buying a new bike) get the dealer to change the chainrings to
round ones.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Snakebite flats
.c Snakebite flats
.l
Snakebite flats are usually caused by the tire and tube being pinched
between the road and the rim, causing two small holes in the tube that look
like a snakebite. The usual causes are underinflation, too narrow a tire
for your weight, or hitting something (rock, pothole) while having your full
weight on the tire.
l
The obvious solutions are to make sure your tires are inflated properly, use
a larger size tire if you weigh a lot, and either avoid rocks and potholes
or stand up with your knees and elbows flexed (to act like shock absorbers)
when you go over them.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Blown Tubes
.c Blown Tubes
.c (Tom Reingold  [e-mail])
.l
Charles E Newman writes:
.l
.i 7
Something really weird happened at 12:11 AM. My bike blew a tire while just
sitting parked in my room. I was awakened by a noise that scared the livin
^&$% out of me. I ran in and found that all the air was rushing out of my
tire. How could something like happen in the middle of the night when the
bike isn't even being ridden? I  have heard of it happening when the bike is
being ridden but not when it is parked.
.l
This happened because a bit of your inner tube was pinched between your tire
bead and your rim. Sometimes it takes a while for the inner tube to creap
out from under the tire. Once it does that, it has nothing to keep the air
pressure in, so it blows out. Yes, it's scary. I've had it happen in the
room where I was sleeping.
.l
To prevent this, inflate the tire to about 20 psi and move the tire left and
right, making sure no part of the inner tube is pinched.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Mounting Tires
.c Mounting Tires
.c (Douglas Gurr  [e-mail])
.l
A request comes in for tyre mounting tricks. I suspect that this ought to be
part of the FAQ list. However in lieu of this, I offer the way it was taught
to me. Apologies to those for whom this is old hat, and also for the paucity
of my verbal explanations. Pictures would help but, as always, the best bet
is to find someone to show you.
.l
First of all, the easy bit:
.l
1) Remove the outer tyre bead from the rim. Leave the inner bead. Handy
hint. If after placing the first tyre lever you are unable to fit another in
because the tension in the bead is too great then relax the first, slip the
second in and use both together.
.l
2) Pull out the tube finishing at the valve.
.l
3) Inspect the tube, find the puncture and repair it.
.l
Now an important bit:
.l
4) Check tyre for thorns, bits of glass etc - especially at the point where
the hole in the tube was found.
.l
and now a clever bit:
.l
5) Inflate the tube a _minimal_ amount, i.e. just sufficient for it to hold
its shape. Too much inflation and it won't fit inside the tyre. Too little
(including none at all) and you are likely to pinch it.
.l
More important bits:
.l
6) Fit the tube back inside the tyre. Many people like to cover the tube in
copious quantities of talcum powder first. This helps to lubricate the
tyre/tube interface as is of particular importance in high pressure tyres.
.l
7) Seat the tyre and tube over the centre of the rim.
.l
8) Begin replacing the outer bead by hand. Start about 90 degrees away from
the valve and work towards it. After you have safely passed the valve, shove
it into the tyre (away from the rim) to ensure that you have not trapped the
tube around the valve beneath the tyre wall.
.l
Finally the _really_ clever bit:
.l
9) When you reach the point at which you can no longer proceed by hand,
slightly _deflate_ the tube and try again. Repeat this process until either
the tyre is completely on (in which case congratulations) or the tube is
completely deflated. In the latter case, you will have to resort to using
tyre levers and your mileage may vary. Take care.
.l
and the last important check:
.l
10) Go round the entire wheel, pinching the tyre in with your fingers to
check that there is no tube trapped beneath the rim. If you have trapped the
tube, deduct ten marks and go back to step one. Otherwise ....
.l
11) Replace wheel and reinflate.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.More Flats on Rear Tires
.c More Flats on Rear Tires
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
Most sharp obstacles except tetrahedral glass slivers and puncture vine gets
stuck more often is that the front tire upsets the sharp object just in time
for the rear tire to catch it head-on.
.l
This front to rear effect is also true for motor vehicles. Nails lying on
the road seldom enter front tires. When dropped on the road by a moving
vehicle, the nail slides down the road aligning itself pointing toward
traffic because it tends to roll around until it is head first. The tire
rolls over it and tilts it up so that if the speed is ideal, the rear tire
catches it upright. I once got a flat from a one inch diameter steel washer
that the rear tire struck on edge after the front tire flipped it up.
.l
When it is wet glass can stick to the tire even in the flat orientation and
thereby get a second chance when it comes around again. To add to this
feature, glass cuts far more easily when wet as those who have cut rubber
tubing in chemistry class may remember. A wet razor blade cuts latex rubber
tubing in a single slice while a dry blade only makes a nick.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.What holds the rim off...
.c What holds the rim off the ground?
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
.a
>What forces keep the rim of a wheel with pneumatic tires off the
>ground. It obviously can't be the air pressure because that's acting
>from top as well as from below.
.f
.l
As has been pointed out, the casing walls pull on the rim (or its
equivalent) and thereby support the load. The casing leaves the rim at
about a 45 degree angle, and being essentially a circular cross section,
it is in contact with the rim over its inner quarter circle. At least
this is a good representative model. The visualization may be simpler
if a tubular tire is considered. It makes no difference whether the
tire is held on by glue or is otherwise attaches to the rim such as a
clincher is. Either way the tire is attached to the rim, a relatively
rigid structure.
.l
Under load, in the ground contact zone, the tire bulges so that two
effects reduce the downward pull (increase the net upward force) of the
casing. First, the most obvious one is that the casing pulls more to
the sides than downward (than it did in its unloaded condition); the
second is that the side wall tension is reduced. The reduction arises
from the relationship that unit casing tension is equivalent to
inflation pressure times the radius of curvature divided by pi. As the
curvature reduces when the tire bulges out, the casing tension decreases
correspondingly. The inflated tire supports the rim primarily by these
two effects.
.l
Tire pressure changes imperceptibly when the tire is loaded because the
volume does not change appreciably. Besides, the volume change is
insignificant in small in comparison to the volume change the air has
undergone when being compressed into the tire. In that respect, it
takes several strokes of a frame pump to increase the pressure of a tire
from 100 psi to 101. The air has a low spring constant that acts like a
long soft spring that has been preloaded over a long stroke. Small
deflections do not change its force materially. For convenience car and
truck tires are regularly inflated to their proper pressure before being
mounted on the vehicle.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Anodized vs Non-anod. Rims
.c Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
There are several kinds of dark coatings sold on rims. Each suggests that
added strength is achieved by this surface treatment while in fact no useful
effects other than aesthetic results are achieved. The colored rims just
cost more as do the cosmetically anodized ones. The hard anodized rims do
not get stronger even though they have a hard crust. The anodized crust is
brittle and porous and crazes around spoke holes when the sockets are
riveted into the rim. These cracks grow and ultimately cause break-outs if
the wheel is subjected to moderate loads over time.
.l
There is substantial data on this and shops like Wheelsmith, that build many
wheels, can tell you that for instance, no MA-2 rims have cracked while
MA-40 rims fail often. These are otherwise identical rims.
.l
Hard anodizing is also a thermal and electrical insulator. Because heat is
generated in the brake pads and not the rim, braking energy must cross the
interface to be dissipated in the rim. Anodizing, although relatively thin,
impedes this heat transfer and reduces braking efficiency by overheating the
brake pad surfaces. Fortunately, in wet weather, road grit wears off the
sidewall anodizing and leaves a messy looking rim with better braking.
.l
Anodizing has nothing to do with heat treatment and does not strengthen
rims. To make up for that, it costs more.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Reusing Spokes
.c Reusing Spokes
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
.a
>I just bent my wheel and am probably going to need a new one
>built. Can I reuse my old, 3 months, spokes in the new wheel.
>The guy at the shop gave me some mumbo jumbo about tensioning or
>something.
.f
.l
There is no reason why you should not reuse the spokes of your relatively
new wheel. The reason a bike shop would not choose to do this is that they
do not know the history of your spokes and do not want to risk their work on
unknown materials. If you are satisfied that the spokes are good quality
you should definitely use them for you new wheel. The spokes should,
however, not be removed from the hub because they have all taken a set
peculiar to their location, be that inside or outside spokes. The elbows of
outside spokes, for instance, have an acute angle while the inside spokes
are obtuse.
.l
There are a few restrictions to this method, such as that new rim must have
the same effective diameter as the old, or the spokes will be the wrong
length. The rim should also be the same "handedness" so that the rim holes
are offset in the correct direction. This is not a fatal problem because
you can advance the rim one hole so that there is a match. The only problem
is that the stem will not fall between parallel spokes as it should for
pumping convenience.
.l
Take a cotton swab and dab a little oil in each spoke socket of the new rim
before you begin. Hold the rims side by side so that the stem holes are
aligned and note whether the rim holes are staggered in the same way. If
not line the rim up so they are. Then unscrew one spoke at a time, put a
wipe of oil on the threads and engage it in the new rim. When they are all
in the new rim you proceed as you would truing any wheel. Details of this
are in a good book on building wheels.
.l
The reason you can reuse spokes is that their failure mode is fatigue.
There is no other way of causing a fatigue failure than to ride many
thousand miles (if your wheel is properly built). A crash does not induce
fatigue nor does it even raise tension in spokes unless you get a pedal
between them. Unless a spoke has a kink that cannot be straightened by
hand, they can all be reused.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Clinchers vs. Tubulars
.c Clinchers vs. Tubulars
.c (F.J. Brown  [e-mail])
.l
[e-mail] gave some useful hints on mounting clinchers,
mostly involving the use of copious quantities of baby powder, and trying to
convince me that clinchers aren't difficult to mount, so ease of mounting
isn't a valid reason for preferring tubulars.
.l
[e-mail] wrote that although average tubulars ride
'nicer' than average clinchers, there are some clinchers around that ride
just as 'nice'. He also said that ease of change isn't a good reason for
preferring tubulars as if you flat in a race, you're either going to swap a
wheel or drop out. He pointed out that tubulars end up costing $20 - $80
per flat.
.l
[e-mail] gave some of the historic reasons that tubulars were
preferred: higher pressures, lower weight, stronger, lighter rims. Said
that only a few of these still hold true (rim strength/weight, total
weight), but he still prefers the 'feel' of tubulars.
.l
[e-mail] started this thread with his observations on
clinchers seperated from their rims in the aftermath of a race crash.
.l
[e-mail] comments on improperly-glued tubulars posing a
threat to other racers by rolling off, and noted that this couldn't happen
with clinchers.
.l
[e-mail] agreed with stek, with the additional note that
it is inadequate inflation that often allows tubulars to roll.
.l
Kevin at Buffalo agreed with stek and jobst about tubulars (improperly or
freshly glued) sometimes rolling.
.l
[e-mail] says he uses clinchers for cost and convenience.
Clinchers let him carry around a tiny patch kit and some tyre irons, costing
60c, whereas tubulars would require him to carry a whole tyre, and would
cost more.
.l
CONCLUSIONS: THE CLINCHER VS. TUBULAR WAR
.b
Tubulars
.b
- used to be capable of taking higher pressures, had lower weight and
mounted onto stronger, lighter rims than clinchers. Clinchers have now
largely caught up, but many cyclists thinking hasn't. Tubular tyre + rim
combination still lighter and stronger.
.b
- are easier to change than clinchers. This matters more to some people
than others - triathletes, mechanical morons and those riding in unsupported
races.
.b
- cost megabucks if you replace them every time you puncture. ***However***
(and none of the North Americans mentioned this) down here in Kiwiland, we
***always*** repair our punctured tubulars (unless the casing is cut to
ribbons). The process doesn't take much imagination, you just unstitch the
case, repair the tube in the normal manner using the thinnest patches you
can buy, stitch it back up again and (the secret to success) put a drop of
Superglue over the hole in the tread.
.b
- can roll off if improperly glued or inflated. In this case, you probably
deserve what you get. Unfortunately, the riders behind you don't.
.l
Clinchers
.b
- can be difficult to change (for mechanical morons) and are always slower
to change than tubulars. Most people still carry a spare tube and do their
repairs when they get home.
.b
- are cheaper to run: if you puncture a lot clinchers will probably still
save you money over tubulars, even if you repair your tubulars whenever
possible. Tubulars are only repairable most of the time, you virtually
never write off a clincher casing due to a puncture.
.b
- have improved immensely in recent years; top models now inflate to high
pressures, and are lighter and stronger than they used to be. Likewise
clincher rims. Some debate over whether tubulars are still lighter and
tubular rims stronger. Probably depends on quality you select. No doubt
that high quality clinchers/rims stronger, lighter and mor dependable than
cheap tubular/rim combination.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Presta Valve Nuts
.c Presta Valve Nuts
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
Two points here:
.l
1.
.b
The jamb nut holds the stem when pumping so that it does not recede into
the rim when pressing the pump head against the tire. This is
especially useful when the tire is flat (after installing the tube). It
also keeps the stem from wiggling around while pumping. Removing the nut
should present no difficulty unless the threads have been damaged or the
hands are cold. The cold may present a problem, but then just opening
the valve nut on a Presta valve under such conditions.
.l
2.
.b
Breaking off stems with a frame pump comes from pumping incorrectly.
The number of new tubes with broken stems lying along the road proves
that this occurs far too often. To avoid breaking the stem, the pump
head should be be held in the fist so that the pumping force goes from
one hand into the other, not from the pump into the valve stem. To
practice the correct action, hold the pump head in one hand with the
thumb over the outlet, and pump vigorously letting out no air. All the
force goes from one hand into the other. This is essentially what
should take place when inflating a tire.
.l
It does no good to "get even" with the stupid tube by discarding it on
the road for all to see. Most riders understand how to pump a tire and
see this only as evidence of incompetence rather than a faulty tube.
Besides, this ostentatious behavior constitutes littering for which the
the fine is $1000 in California. Bike shops should instruct new bike
owners about the use of the frame pump. Along with this there should be
some tire patch hints like don't try to ride a freshly patched tube,
carry a spare tube and always use the spare after patching the punctured
tube.Of course this is a whole subject in itself that should be
treated under its own heading.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Ideal Tire Sizes
.c Ideal Tire Sizes
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
.a
> I'm getting a custom frame built and wondered what
> people thought of using 26 inch road wheels. Smaller
> wheels ought to be lighter and stronger.
.f
.l
and goes on to list advantages and disadvantages, most of which are less
that important in deciding what size to use. What in fact brought us the
wheel size (700 or 27") that we have is better understood by the women
riders who have a hard time fitting these wheels into their small bicycle
frames. Wheels would be larger than they are if they would fit the average
riders bike, but they don't. So the compromise size is what we are riding
today.
.l
.a
> It seems to me that the most obvious reason for using 27"
> wheels is tradition, but I'm not sure the advantages make
> it worth trying to swim upstream. What do you think?
.f
.l
This line of thought is consistent with the "cost be damned" approach in
bicycling today. The big bucks are spent by people who want the best or
even better than their peers. The more special the better. Riders
consistently spend nearly twice the money for wheels and get worse rims when
they choose anodized ones, whether there is merit to this finish is of no
interest. They cost more so they must be better. How "custom" can you get
than to have wheels no one else on the block has (maybe 25"?).
.l
If enough riders ask for 24", 25" and 26" wheels, manufacturers will up the
price as their product lines multiply and the total sales remain constant.
Tires and spokes will follow as a whole range of sizes that were not
previously stocked become part of the inventory. Meanwhile, bike frames
will come in different configurations to take advantage of the special wheel
sizes. SIzes whose advantages are imperceptibly small but are touted by
riders who talk of seconds saved in their last club TT or while riding to
work.
.l
A larger wheel rides better on average roads and always corners better
because it brings a longer contact patch to the road. A longer contact
averages traction over more pavement and avoids slip outs for lack of local
traction. Visualize crossing a one inch wide glossy paint stripe with a 27"
wheel and an 18" wheel when banked over in a wet turn.
.l
I see this subject arise now and then and it reminds me of the concept of
splitting wreck.bike into several newsgroups. The perpetrators bring the
matter up for many of the wrong reasons.
.l
Ride bike, don't re-invent what has been discarded.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Indexed Steering
.c Indexed Steering
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
.a
>In the several years I spent working in a pro shop, I have never seen a
>case of "index steering" (yes, we called it that) that was _not_ caused
>by a "brinelled" headset - one with divots in the races. I am 99.999
>percent certain that that is your problem. What are you going to do if
>you don't fix it? I suggest that you fix the headset even if you sell
>the bike, as a damaged headset could be grounds for a lawsuit if the
>buyer crashes.
.f
.l
I disagree on two points. First, because the use of the term brinelling
conveys a notion as incorrect as the phrase "my chain stretched from
climbing steep hills" and second, because there is no possibility of injury
or damage from an "indexed" head bearing.
.l
Damage to the head bearings seems to be twofold in this case because the
steering, if properly adjusted, only gets looser from dimpled bearings and
would not become arrested by the dimples. So the head was adjusted too
tight or it got tighter inadvertently. However, dimpling is caused by
lubrication failure and occurs while riding straight ahead. This condition
is worsened by a tight bearing while a loose bearing would introduce more
lubricant if it were to rattle.
.l
If you believe it comes from hammering the balls into the races, I suggest
you try to cause some dimples by hammering with a hammer onto the underside
of the fork crown of a clunker bike of your choice. Those who pounded in
cotters on cottered cranks will recall no such dimpling on the BB axle and
even though this is a far smaller bearing race than a head bearing and the
blows are more severe and direct, no dimples were made.
.l
Ball bearings make metal-to-metal contact only when subjected to fretting
loads (microscopic oscillations) while in the same position, as in riding
straight ahead on a conventional road. If you watch your front axle while
rolling down the road at 20+ mph you will notice that the fork ends vibrate
fore and aft. This motion arises not at the blade tips but at the fork
crown and articulates the head bearing in fretting motions that are not in
the normal direction of bearing rotation. Any substantial steering motion
replenishes lubrication from adjoining areas.
.l
Lubrication failure from fretting causes welding between the balls and races
and these tiny weld spots tear out repeatedly. The result is that at the
front and rear of the races elliptical milky dimples occur. Were these
brinelling (embossed through force) they would be shiny and round. Various
testimonials for the durability of one bearing over another may be based on
good experience, however, the differences in most of these was not in the
design of the bearing but rather the type of lubricant used. A ball bearing
is not suitable for this use. This is in spite of their use in almost all
bicycles.
.l
To reduce point loads and to protect the rolling elements from fretting
motion, roller bearing head bearings have been built. In these the rotary
motion is taken up in needle bearings on conical races and the fork
articulation is absorbed by an approximation of a spherical cup (the steel
race) against the aluminum housing. Both of these bearings are ideally
loaded. The rollers all remain in contact and carry rotary motion while the
plain spherical bearing remains in full contact carrying low pressure fore
and aft motion.
.l
I am disappointed that roller bearings until now have not been suitably
perfected to rid us of the age old bearing failure. Maybe some day soon Sun
Tour, Campagnolo, Shimano or Stronglight will emerge with an easily
adjustable and fully compatible bearing. The one I am using is durable but
not easily adjusted and it has too great a stack height to qualify for a
recommended replacement.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Center vs Dual Pivot Brakes
.c Center Pivot vs. Dual Pivot Brakes
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
Sidepull (one central pivot) brakes operate at a small angle to the rim.
That means the pad moves in a nearly perpendicular direction to the braking
surface and the pads can be completely worn down without adjusting their
position. The unit is light and has a self contained quick release and
cable adjustment feature.
.l
Its weakness is its thin arms that, in the pursuit of light weight, flex in
the bending direction. With the current practice to minimize tire clearance
on road bicycles, sidepull brakes cannot be used off road for lack of dirt
clearance. Their return spring is anchored in a way that relative motion
occurs between it and the brake arms. This motion demands lubrication and
in its absence the brake does not center itself. This is a perpetual
problem that has not been solved and has given rise to many designs, the
latest of which is the Shimano dual pivot brake. This brake has the
disadvantage that it cannot track a wobbly wheel because it is forced to be
centered.
.l
The cantilever and centerpull brakes are inversions of the same design.
Both have pivot points that are at 45 degrees to the brake surface, but the
centerpull offers no advantage over sidepulls because it has all the same
problems and not the advantages. In contrast the cantilever is the most
rigid of available brakes and offers more tire clearance for off road use.
.l
The approach angel moves the brake pads in an undesirable direction so that
as the pad wears it must be adjusted to prevent falling off the rim. With
wear, the centerpull goes into the tire while the cantilever allows the pad
to pop under the rim, never to return. Cantilever brakes have the additional
problem that their reaction force spreads the forks. For this reason, U
shaped stress plates are made to contain this force. For forks with
telescopic suspension, braking restricts forks motion.
.l
Nearly all bicycle brakes have about the same mechanical advantage (4:1)
that arises primarily in the hand lever. The "calipers" all approximate a
1:1 ratio. This is necessary to fit the reach of the average hand and the
strength of the hand in proportion to body weight. That is to say all
brakes are made to about the same human specification. Force and motion are
a trade-off and this is the result.
.l
The Campagnolo Delta and Modolo Chronos brakes have a variable ratio that at
the extremes ranges from infinity to zero, its motion being generated by an
equilateral parallelogram that changes from one extreme to the other. This
is an undesirable feature, especially as the pads wear and braking takes
place in the zone of increased lever travel and increased mechanical
advantage. The brake bottoms out abruptly.
.l
Servo activation on cantilever brakes has been offered in a design that uses
the forward thrust on the brake post to add force to the application. Self
servo effects are undesirable in brakes because the proportionality between
braking and hand force is lost. You don't know how much braking you will
get for a given hand lever force. It can vary widely and in some
circumstances cause an unwanted skid.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Seat adjustments
.c Seat adjustments
.c (Roger Marquis  [e-mail])
.l
The following method of setting saddle height is not the only method around
for setting your saddle height but it is the most popular among coaches and
riders both here and in Europe.
.l
A) Adjust saddle level or very slightly nose up, no more than 2mm at the
nose.
.b
B) Put on the shoes you normally ride in. Have wrench ready (usually a 5mm
Allen).
.b
C) Mount the bike and sit comfortably, leaning against a wall. Hold the
brake on with one hand (or mount the bike on a turbo trainer if you have
one).
.b
D) Place your HEELS on the pedals, opposite the clip, pedal backwards at 30+
rpm without rocking your pelvis (very important).
.b
E) Adjust seat height so that there is about:
.i 5
1) ZERO TO ONE HALF CM. for recreational riders (-50 mi/wk.),
.i 5
2) ONE HALF TO ONE CM. for experienced riders (50+ mi./wk.),
.i 5
3) ONE TO TWO CM. for endurance cyclists (250+ mi./wk.), between your heel
and the pedal. If your soles are thicker at the cleat than at the heel
adjust accordingly. don't forget to grease the seat post.
.b
F) Ride. It may take a couple of rides to get used to the feel and possibly
stretch the hamstrings and Achilles slightly.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Cleat adjustments
.c Cleat adjustments
.c (Roger Marquis  [e-mail])
.l
[Ed note: You may also want to consider going to a bike shop that does Fit
Kit and have them do the Fit Kit RAD to adjust your cleats. Many people
recommend it.]
.l
A) Grease the cleat bolts and lightly tighten.
.b
B) Sitting on the bike, put your feet in the pedals and adjust until:
.b
B1) The ball of your foot is directly above or, more commonly, slightly
behind the pedal axle and:
.b
B2) There is approximately 1 cm. (1/2in.) between your ankle and the crank
arm.
.b
C) Tighten the cleat bolts 80% and go out for a ride. If another position
feels more comfortable rotate your foot into that position.
.b
D) Carefully remove your shoes from the pedals and tighten the bolts fully.
If you cannot get out of the pedals without shifting the cleats leave your
shoes on the bike and draw an outline around the cleat.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.SIS Adjustment Procedure
.c SIS Adjustment Procedure
.c (Bob Fishell  [e-mail])
.l
Shimano's instructions for adjusting SIS drivetrains varies from series to
series. The following method, however, works for each of mine (600EX, 105,
and Deore'). [Ed note: Works on Exage road and mtb also.]
.l
Your chain and cogs must be in good shape, and the cable must be free of
kinks, slips, and binds. The outer cable should have a liner. clean and
lubricate all points where the cable contacts anything.
.l
SIS adjustment:
.l
1) Shift the chain onto the largest chainwheel and the smallest cog, e.g.,
52 and 13.
.l
2) WITHOUT TURNING THE CRANKS, move the shift lever back until it clicks,
and LET GO. This is the trick to adjusting SIS.
.l
3) Turn the crank. If the chain does not move crisply onto the next inside
cog, shift it back where you started, turn the SIS barrel adjuster (on the
back of the rear derailleur) one-half turn CCW, and go back to step 2.
Repeat for each pair of cogs in turn until you can downshift through the
entire range of the large chainwheel gears without the chain hesitating. If
you have just installed or reinstalled a shift cable, you may need to do
this several times.
.l
4) Move the chain to the small chainring (middle on a triple) and the
largest cog.
.l
5) turn the cranks and upshift. If the chain does not move crisply from the
first to the second cog, turn the SIS barrel adjuster one-quarter turn CW.
.l
If the drivetrain cannot be tuned to noiseless and trouble-free SIS
operation by this method, you may have worn cogs, worn chain, or a worn,
damaged, or obstructed shift cable. Replace as needed and repeat the
adjustment.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Where to buy tools
.c Where to buy tools
.l
You can buy tools from many sources. Some tools can be purchased at your
local hardware store (wrenches, socket sets, etc), while the special bike
tools can be purchased from your local bike store or one of the mail order
stores listed elsewhere.
.l
You can buy every tool you think looks useful, or just buy the tools you
need for a particular repair job. Buying the tools as you need them will
let you build up a nice tool set over time without having to drop a lot of
money at once.
.l
Some common tools you will need are:
.l
Metric/SAE wrenches for nuts and bolts (or an assortment of adjustable
wrenches).
.b
Screwdrivers, both flat and phillips.
.b
Metric allen wrenches.
.b
Pliers.
.b
Wood or rubber mallet for loosening bolts.
.l
Special tools and their uses:
.l
Cone wrenches to adjust the hub cones.
.b
Chain tool to take the chain apart for cleaning and lubrication, and to put
it back together.
.b
Tire irons for removing tires.
.b
Spoke wrenches for adjusting spokes.
.b
Cable cutters for cutting cables (don't use diagonal pliers!).
.b
Crankarm tools for removing crankarms.
.b
Bottom bracket tools for adjusting bottom brackets.
.b
Headset wrenches to adjust the large headset nut.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Workstands
.c Workstands
.l
There are a variety of workstands available, from about $30 to over $130.
Look at the mail order catalogs for photos showing the different types. The
type with a clamp that holds one of the tubes on the bike are the nicest and
easy to use. Park has a couple of models, and their clamp is the lever type
(pull the lever to lock the clamp). Blackburn and Performance have the
screw type clamp (screw the clamp shut on the tube.
.l
If you have a low budget, you can use two pieces of rope hanging from the
ceiling with rubber coated hooks on the end - just hang the bike by the top
tube. This is not as steady as a workstand, but will do an adequate job.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Frame Stiffness
.c Frame Stiffness
.c (Bob Bundy  [e-mail])
.l
As many of you rec.bicycles readers are aware, there have been occasional,
sometimes acrimonious, discussions about how some frames are so much stiffer
than others. Cannondale frames seem to take most of the abuse. The litany
of complaints about some bike frames is long and includes excessive wheel
hop, numb hands, unpleasant ride, broken spokes, pitted headsets, etc. I
was complaining to a friend of mine about how there was so much ranting and
raving but so little empirical data - to which he replied, "Why don't you
stop complaining and do the measurements yourself?". To that, I emitted the
fateful words, "Why not, after all, how hard can it be?". Following some
consultation with Jobst and a few other friends, I ran the following tests:
.l
The following data were collected by measuring the vertical deflection at
the seat (ST), bottom bracket (BB) and head tube (HT) as a result of
applying 80lb of vertical force. The relative contributions of the tires,
wheels, fork, and frame (the diamond portion) were measured using a set of
jigs and a dial indicator which was read to the nearest .001 inch. For some
of the measures, I applied pressures from 20 to 270 lbs to check for any
significant nonlinearity. None was observed. The same set of tires
(Continentals) and wheels were used for all measurements. Note that these
were measures of in-plane stiffness, which should be related to ride
comfort, and not tortional stiffness which is something else entirely.
.l
Bikes:
.l
TA - 1987 Trek Aluminum 1200, this model has a Vitus front fork, most
.i 5
     reviews describe this as being an exceptionally smooth riding bike
.l
SS - 1988 Specialized Sirus, steel CrMo frame, described by one review
.i 5
     as being stiff, hard riding and responsive
.l
DR - 1987 DeRosa, SP/SL tubing, classic Italian road bike
.l
RM - 1988 Cannondale aluminum frame with a CrMo fork, some reviewers
.i 5
      could not tolerate the rough ride of this bike
.l
.a
             TA           SS           DR           RM
         ----------   ----------   ----------   ----------
         ST  BB  HT   ST  BB  HT   ST  BB  HS   ST  BB  HT
diamond   1   1   0    2   2   0    2   2   0    1   1   0
fork      3  11  45    3   9  36    4  13  55    3  10  40
wheels    2   2   2    2   2   2    2   2   2    2   2   2
tires    68  52  66   68  52  66   68  52  66   68  52  66
total    74  66 113   75  65 104   76  69 123   74  65 108
.f
.l
What is going on here? I read the bike mags and this net enough to know
that people have strong impressions about the things that affect ride
comfort. For example, it is common to hear people talk about rim types
(aero vs. non-aero), spoke size, butting and spoke patterns and how they
affect ride. Yet the data presented here indicate, just a Jobst predicted,
that any variation in these factors will essentially be undetectable to the
rider. Similarly, one hears the same kind of talk about frames, namely,
that frame material X gives a better ride than frame material Y, that butted
tubing gives a better ride that non-butted, etc. (I may have even made such
statements myself at some time.)  Yet, again, the data suggest that these
differences are small and, perhaps, even undetectable. I offer two
explanations for this variation between the data and subjective reports of
ride quality.
.l
Engineering:
.b
These data are all static measurements and perhaps only applicable at the
end of the frequency spectrum. Factors such as frequency response, and
damping might be significant factors in rider comfort.
.l
Psychology:
.b
There is no doubt that these bikes all look very different, especially the
Cannondale. They even sound different while riding over rough roads. These
factors, along with the impressions of friends and reviews in bike magazines
may lead us to perceive differences where they, in fact, do not exist.
.l
Being a psychologist, I am naturally inclined toward the psychological
explanation. I just can't see how the diamond part of the frame contributes
in any significant way to the comfort of a bike. The damping of the frame
should be irrelevant since it doesn't flex enough that there is any motion
to actually dampen. That the frame would become flexible at some important
range of the frequency spectrum doesn't seem likely either.
.l
On the other hand, there is plenty of evidence that people are often very
poor judges of their physical environment. They often see relationships
where they don't exist and mis-attribute other relationships. For example,
peoples' judgement of ride quality in automobiles is more related to the
sounds inside the automobile than the ride itself. The only way to get a
good correlation between accelerometers attached to the car seat and the
rider's estimates of ride quality is to blindfold and deafen the rider (not
permanently!). This is only one of many examples of mis-attribution. The
role of expectation is even more powerful. (Some even claim that whole
areas of medicine are built around it - but that is another story entirely.)
People hear that Cannondales are stiff and, let's face it, they certainly
*look* stiff. Add to that the fact that Cannondales sound different while
going over rough roads and perhaps the rider has an auditory confirmation of
what is already believed to be true.
.l
Unless anyone can come up with a better explanation, I will remain convinced
that differences in ride quality among frames are more a matter of
perception than of actual physical differences.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Frame materials
.c Frame materials
.l
[Ed note: I got this information from some of the books I have. People in
the know are welcome to update this.]
.l
There are several materials that are used to make bicycle frames. They are:
.l
Mild steel - usually used in cheap department store bikes. Frames made from
mild steel are heavy.
.l
High carbon steel - a higher quality material used in low end bikes.
Reynolds 500 is an example.
.l
Steel alloy - lighter and better riding than high-carbon frames. Reynolds
501 and Tange Mangaloy are examples.
.l
Chro-moly -  also called chrome-molybdenum or manganese-molybdenum steel.
One of the finest alloys for bike frames. Reynolds 531 and Columbus SL and
SP are some of the best known brands.
.l
Carbon fiber - high tech stuff. Made from space-age materials, frames made
of this are very light and strong. Some problems have been seen in the
connections between the tubes and bottom bracket, etc.
.l
Aluminum -   Light frames, usually with larger diameter tubes. Cannondale is
a well-known brand.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Bike pulls to one side
.c Bike pulls to one side
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
For less than million dollar bikes this is easy to fix, whether it corrects
the cause or not. If a bike veers to one side when ridden no-hands, it can
be corrected by bending the forks to the same side as you must lean to ride
straight. This is done by bending the fork blades one at a time, about 3
mm. If more correction is needed, repeat the exercise.
.l
The problem is usually in the forks although it is possible for frame
misalignment to cause this effect. The kind of frame alignment error that
causes this is a head and seat tube not in the same plane. This is not
easily measured other than by sighting or on a plane table. The trouble with
forks is that they are more difficult to measure even though shops will not
admit it. It takes good fixturing to align a fork because a short fork
blade can escape detection by most measurement methods. Meanwhile lateral
and in-line corrections may seem to produce a straight fork that still pulls
to one side. However, the crude guy who uses the method I outlined above
will make the bike ride straight without measurement. The only problem with
this is that the bike may pull to one side when braking because the fork
really isn't straight but is compensated for lateral balance.
.l
This problem has mystified more bike shops because they did not recognize
the problem. Sequentially brazing or welding fork blades often causes
unequal length blades and bike shops usually don't question this dimension.
However, in your case I assume the bike once rode straight so something is
crooked
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Frame repair
.c Frame repair
.c (David Keppel  [e-mail])
.l
(Disclaimer: my opinions do creep in from time to time!)
.l
When frames fail due to manufacturing defects they are usually replaced
under warranty. When they fail due to accident or abuse (gee, I don't know
*why* it broke when I rode off that last motorcycle jump, it's never broken
when I rode it off it before!) you are left with a crippled or unridable
bike.
.l
There are various kinds of frame damage that can be repaired. The major
issues are (a) figuring out whether it's repairable (b) who can do it and
(c) whether it's worth doing (sometimes repairs just aren't worth it).
.l
Kinds of repairs: Bent or cracked frame tubes, failed joints, bent or
missing braze-on brackets, bent derailleur hangars, bent or broken brake
mounts, bent forks, etc. A frame can also be bent out of alignment without
any visible damage; try sighting from the back wheel to the front, and if
the front wheel hits the ground to one side of the back wheel's plane (when
the front wheel is pointing straight ahead), then the frame is probably out
of alignment.
.l 2
* Can it be repaired?
.l
Just about any damage to a steel frame can be repaired. Almost any damage
to an aluminum or carbon fiber frame is impossible to repair. Titanium
frames can be repaired but only by the gods. Some frames are composites of
steel and other materials (e.g., the Raleigh Technium). Sometimes damage to
steel parts cannot be repaired because repairs would affect the non-steel
parts.
.l
Owners of non-steel frames can take heart: non-steel frames can resist some
kinds of damage more effectively than steel frames, and may thus be less
likely to be damaged. Some frames come with e.g., replacable derailleur
hangers (whether you can *get* a replacement is a different issue, though).
Also, many non-steel frames have steel forks and any part of a steel fork
can be repaired.
.l
Note: For metal frames, minor dents away from joints can generally be
ignored. Deep gouges, nicks, and cuts in any frame may lead to eventual
failure. With steel, the failure is generally gradual. With aluminum the
failure is sometimes sudden.
.l
Summary: if it is steel, yes it can be repaired. If it isn't steel, no, it
can't be repaired.
.l 2
* Who can do it?
.l
Bent derailleur hangers can be straightened. Indexed shifting systems are
far more sensitive to alignment than non-indexed. Clamp an adjustable
wrench over the bent hanger and yield the hanger gently. Leave the wheel
bolted in place so that the derailleur hanger is bent and not the back of
the dropout. Go slowly and try not to overshoot. The goal is to have the
face of the hanger in-plane with the bike's plane of symmetry.
.l
Just about any other repair requires the help of a shop that builds frames
since few other shops invest in frame tools. If you can find a shop that's
been around for a while, though, they may also have some frame tools.
.l 2
* Is it worth it?
.l
The price of the repair should be balanced with
.l
.a
* The value of the bicycle
* What happens if you don't do anything about the damage
* What would a new bike cost
* What would a new frame cost
* What would a used bike cost
* What would a used frame cost
* What is the personal attachment
.f
.l
If you are sentimentally attached to a frame, then almost any repair is
worth it. If you are not particularly attached to the frame, then you
should evaluate the condition of the components on the rest of the bicycle.
It may be cheaper to purchase a new or used frame or even purchase a whole
used bike and select the best components from each. For example, my most
recent reconstruction looked like:
.l
.a
* Bike's estimated value: $300
* Do nothing about damage: unridable
* Cost of new bike: $400
* Cost of new frame: $250+
* Cost of used bike: $200+
* Cost of used frame: N/A
* Cost of repair: $100+
* Personal attachment: zip
.f
.l
Getting the bike on the road again was not a big deal: I have lots of other
bikes, but I *wanted* to have a commuter bike. Since I didn't *need* it,
though, I could afford to wait a long time for repairs. The cost of a new
bike was more than I cared to spend. It is hard to get a replacement frame
for a low-cost bicycle. I did a good bit of shopping around and the
lowest-cost new frame that I could find was $250, save a low-quality frame
in the bargain basement that I didn't want. Used frames were basically the
same story: people generally only sell frames when they are high-quality
frames. Because the bike was a road bike, I could have purchased a used
bike fairly cheaply; had the bike been a fat-tire bike, it would have been
difficult to find a replacement. The cost of the frame repair included only
a quick ``rattlecan'' spray, so the result was aesthetically unappealing and
also more fragile. For a commuter bike, though, aesthetics are secondary,
so I went with repair.
.l
There is also a risk that the `fixed' frame will be damaged. I had a frame
crack when it was straightened. I could have had the tube replaced, but at
much greater expense. The shop had made a point that the frame was damaged
enough that it might crack during repair and charged me 1/2. I was able to
have the crack repaired and I still ride the bike, but could have been left
both out the money and without a ridable frame.
.l 2
* Summary
.l
Damaged steel frames can always be repaired, but if the damage is severe, be
sure to check your other options. If the bicycle isn't steel, then it
probably can't be repaired.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Frame Fatigue
.c Frame Fatigue
.c (John Unger  [e-mail])
.l
I think that some of the confusion (and heat...) on this subject arises
because people misunderstand the term fatigue and equate it with some sort
of "work hardening" phenomena.
.l
By definition, metal fatigue and subsequent fatique failure are well-studied
phenomena that occur when metal (steel, aluminum, etc.) is subjected to
repeated stresses within the _elastic_ range of its deformation. Elastic
deformation is defined as deformation that results in no permanent change in
shape after the stess is removed. Example: your forks "flexing" as the bike
rolls over a cobblestone street.
.l
(an aside... The big difference between steel and aluminum as a material for
bicycles or anything similar is that you can design the tubes in a steel
frame so that they will NEVER fail in fatigue. On the other hand, no matter
how over-designed an aluminum frame is, it always has some threshold in
fatigue cycles beyond which it will fail.)
.l
This constant flexing of a steel frame that occurs within the elastic range
of deformation must not be confused with the permanent deformation that
happens when the steel is stressed beyond its elastic limit, (e. g., a bent
fork). Repeated permanent deformation to steel or to any other metal changes
its strength characteristics markedly (try the old "bend a paper clip back
and forth until it breaks" trick).
.l
Because non-destructive bicycle riding almost always limits the stresses on
a frame to the elastic range of deformation, you don't have to worry about a
steel frame "wearing out" over time.
.l
I'm sorry if all of this is old stuff to the majority of this newsgroup's
readers; I just joined a few months ago.
.l
I can understand why Jobst might be weary about discussing this
subject; I can remember talking about it on rides with him 20 years
ago....
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Adjusting SPD Cleats
.c Aligning SPD Cleats
.c (Bill Bushnell  [e-mail])
.l
Six adjustments can be made when setting up SPD cleats. With the foot
parallel to the ground and pointing in the direction of travel, the
adjustments are:
.l
.a
1) Left/right translation
2) Front/back translation
3) Up/down translation
4) Front to back tilt
5) Side to side tilt
6) Azimuth, often called "rotation"
.f
.l
Front to back tilt is adjusted as the bicycle is pedaled since the
pedals themselves rotate freely in this direction.
.l
Some people may need to adjust side to side tilt, but this requires
the use of shims which are not provided and can cause the cleat to
protrude beyond the tread of the shoe. Custom insoles that have
one side slightly thicker than the other may have the same effect
as shims between the cleat and the shoe.
.l
Separate up/down adjustments for each leg may be necessary for
individuals with established leg length differences. To adjust
up/down translation in one shoe use a combination of an insole
and raise or lower the seat. To make small up/down changes
equally in both legs, simply raise or lower the seat.
.l
The usual adjustments for SPD cleats are left/right, front/back,
and Azimuth. Of these Azimuth is the most sensitive. For most
people these three adjustments are sufficient to obtain a
comfortable alignment.
.l 2
Aligning SPD cleats:
.l
Position the cleat so that it lies on the imaginary line between the
bony knob on the inside of your foot at the base of your big toe and
a similar but smaller knob on the outside of the foot at the base of
the smallest toe. Set azimuth so that the pointed end of the cleat
points directly toward the front of the shoe.
.l
If you're switching from clips and straps, and you are satisfied with
your current alignment, use the following alternate method. Position
your SPD shoe fully in the clip of your old pedal and align the cleat
to the spindle of your old pedal. Center the cleat in the X direction,
leaving room to adjust either way should the need arise.
.l
Some people find pedaling more comfortable if their left and right
feet are closer together. This is sometimes called the "Q-factor".
If you prefer to start with a low Q-factor, then move the cleat so that
it is as close as possible to the outside of the shoe. Tighten both
cleat bolts before engaging the pedal.
.l
Adjust the release tension of the pedals so that it is somewhere in
the low to middle part of the tension adjustment range. The higher
the release tension, the harder it will be for you to disengage the
pedals when dismounting. The lower the release tension, the easier it
will be for you to inadvertently pull out of the pedals, especially
when standing and pedaling. If you stand often to power up hills,
consider setting the initial release tension higher as an unwanted
release under these conditions can result in a painful spill. See
the pedal instructions.
.l
Mount your bike on a trainer, if you have one, to make preliminary
cleat and release tension adjustments. Practice engaging and
disengaging the pedals a few times before you take a real ride.
Soon you will find this easy. If you notice that a shoe rubs a
crank or chainstay, adjust left/right translation and azimuth
until the shoe no longer rubs.
.l
As you pedal, you will probably find the initial azimuth
uncomfortable on one or both legs. Notice how your foot would like
to rotate. Adjust the azimuth of the appropriate cleat in the same
direction your foot wants to rotate. For example, if your foot
wants to rotate clockwise, adjust the azimuth of the cleat (when
looking at the bottom of the shoe) clockwise. Start by making
moderate corrections. If you overshoot the adjustment, correct by
half as much.
.l
As you approach optimum azimuth, you may need to ride longer before
you notice discomfort. Take your bike off the trainer, and go for
a real ride!  And bring your 4mm allen key.
.l
You may find very small azimuth adjustments difficult to make. This
happens because the cleat has made an indentation in the stiff sole
material (usually plastic, sometimes with a tacky, glue-like
material where a portion of the sole was removed). When you tighten
the cleat after making a small correction, it will tend to slide back
into the old indentation. Try moving the cleat one millimeter or so
to the side or to the front or back, so the cleat can no longer slip
into the old indentation pattern as it is being tightened.
.l
Pain in the ball of your foot can be relieved. One way is by moving
the cleat rearward. Start by moving the cleat about two to three
millimeters closer to the rear of the shoe. Be careful not to change
the azimuth. When pedaling notice how far your heel is from the
crank. After making a front/rear adjustment, check to make sure the
crank-heel distance has not noticeably changed.
.l
Moving a cleat rearward on the shoe has the effect of raising your seat
by a lesser amount for that leg. The exact expression is messy, but
for an upright bike, the effect is similar to raising your seat by
about y/3 for that leg, where y is the distance you moved the cleat to
the rear. For example, if you move your cleat 6 millimeters to the
rear, you might also want to lower your seat by about 2 millimeters.
Remember, though, that unless both cleats are moved rearward the same
amount, your other leg may feel that the seat is too low.
.l
Another way to relieve pain in the ball of the foot is to use a custom
orthotic and/or a padded insole. Most cycling shoes provide poor arch
support and even poorer padding.
.l
After riding for a while with your aligned cleats if you find yourself
pulling out of the pedals while pedaling, you will need to tighten the
release tension. After tightening the release tension the centering
force of the pedals will be higher, and you may discover that the
azimuth isn't optimum. Adjust the azimuth as described above.
.l
On the other hand, if you find you never pull out of the pedals while
pedaling and if you find it difficult or uncomfortable to disengage
the cleat, try loosening the release tension. People whose knees
like some rotational slop in the cleat may be comfortable with very
loose cleat retension.
.l
As with any modification that affects your fit on the bike, get used
to your pedals gradually. Don't ride a century the day after you
install SPDs. Give your body about two or three weeks of gradually
longer rides to adapt to the new feel and alignment, especially if
you've never ridden with clipless pedals before. Several months after
installing SPDs, I occasionally tinker with the alignment.
.l
After performing the above adjustments if you are still uncomfortable,
seek additional help. Some people can be helped by a FitKit. If
you're lucky enough to have a good bike shop nearby, seek their
advice.
.l 2
Tightening cleat bolts:
.l
Tighten cleat bolts until they _begin_ to bind. This will happen when
further tightening produces a vibration or squeal from the cleat.
Tighten no further or you may damage the mounting plate on the inside
of the shoe.  After living for a while with a comfortable alignment,
remove each mounting bolt separately, apply blue loctite on the
threads, and reinstall. Should you later find you need to loosen a
bolt to adjust the alignment, you will have to reapply the loctite.
.l
Keeping the Pedal/Cleat interface clean:
.l
Occasionally you may find the pedals suddenly more difficult to
disengage. This usually happens because dirt or other contaminants
get caught in the cleat or pedal mechanism. I have found that a good
spray with a hose quickly and cleanly washes off dust, mud, or other
gunk from the pedal and cleat. You may also wish to spray the pedal
with a light silicone or teflon lubricant.
.l
Acknowledgements:
.l
.a
John Unruh ([e-mail])
Lawrence You ([e-mail])
.f
.l 2
Case History:
.l
I have sensitive legs--feet, ankles, knees, tendons, etc. If the
cleats aren't aligned properly, I feel it. I took a long time to find
a cleat alignment that was comfortable for long and/or intense rides.
.l
I ride a Bridgestone RB-T, 62cm frame, triple chainring. I wear size
48 Specialized Ground Control shoes--evil-looking black and red
things. They were the only shoes I could find in my size that were
comfortable. When I installed the M737 pedals, I had 175mm cranks.
I set the release tension so that the indicator was at the loose end
but so that I could see the entire nut in the slot.
.l
The azimuth I found most comfortable had both shoes pointing roughly
straight ahead. The ball of my left foot began hurting, so I moved
the left cleat back about 4-6mm. This placed the ball of my foot in
front of the pedal spindle. I did not make any left/right
adjustments.
.l
Unfortunately, on longer rides, the ball of my left foot still hurt,
so I got a pair of custom CycleVac "Superfeet" insoles. I removed the
stock insole from the shoe, and inserted the CycleVac insole. The
CycleVac doesn't have any padding at the ball, and my foot didn't like
the hard plastic sole of the shoe. I had a pair of thin green Spenco
insoles lying around, so I put those under the CycleVacs to provide
some padding. I didn't use the stock insoles because they are too
thick. Finally, the pain was gone!  If I remain pain-free for a while
I may try moving the left cleat forward again.
.l
Then I replaced the 175mm cranks with 180mm cranks, and I lowered the
seat 2.5mm. My left foot was still happy, but my right knee began to
complain. Not only that, but my right foot felt as if it was being
twisted to the right (supinating), toward the outside of the pedal.
After fussing with the azimuth of the right cleat, I couldn't find a
satisfactory position, though I could minimize the discomfort.
.l
I moved the right cleat as far as I could to the outside of the shoe,
bringing my foot closer to the crank. I also reduced the release
tension further. The red indicating dots are now just visible. This
helped my knee, but my foot still felt as if it were being twisted,
as if all the force were being transmitted through the outside of the
foot. In addition, my left Achilles Tendon started to hurt at times.
.l
I lowered the seat another couple millimeters. This helped, but I
felt that my right leg wasn't extending far enough. Then I tried
_rotating_ the saddle just a little to the right, so the nose was
pointing to the right of center. This helped. But my right foot
still felt supinated, and my right knee started to hurt again.
.l
I removed the right CycleVac insole and Spenco insole and replaced them
with the original stock insole that provides little arch support.
Bingo. The discomfort was gone. It seems I need the arch support for
the left foot but not for the right foot.
.l
How long will it be before I make another tweak?  The saga continues...
.l 2
Copyright 1993, Bill Bushnell. Feel free to distribute this article
however you see fit, but please leave the article and this notice
intact.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.Rim Tape Summary
.c Rim Tape Summary
.c (Ron Larson  [e-mail])
.l
This is a summary of the experience of riders on the net regarding
various rim tapes, both commercial and improvized. Any additional
comments and inputs are welcome.
.l
RIM TAPE
.l
Rim tape or rim strips are the material that is placed inside a
clincher rim to protect the tube from sharp edges of the nipple holes
and possibly exposed ends of spokes extending beyond the nipples. Many
materials have been used to produce rim tapes: plastic, rubber, tapes
consisting of a multi-directional fiber weave, duct tape and fiberglass
packing tape.
.l
A few factors influence how well a rim tape works. Some of the tapes
are available in more than one width. It is important to choose the
width that provides the best fit to cover the entire "floor" of the rim
as opposed to a tape that is barely wide enough to cover the nipple
holes. Another factor is how well the rim tape withstands the stress of
being stretched over the nipple holes with a high preassure inner tube
applying preassure to it. The main form of failure of the plastic tapes
is for the tape to split lengthwise (in the direction the tube lies in
the rim) under high preassure forming a sharp edge that the tube
squeezes through and then rubs against. Thus the splitting tape causes
the flat that it was supposed to be protecting against.
.l
REVIEW OF RIM TAPES BY TYPE
.l
Plastic Tapes
.l
Advantages:
.l
Easy to install and remove. No sticky side is involved.
.l
Disadvantages:
.l
Although there are exceptions, they are prone to splitting under
preassure.
.l
Michelin          Good Experiences: 0  Bad Experiences: 6
.l
Cool Tape         Good Experiences: 2  Bad Experiences: 0
.l
Cool Tape is thicker than other plastic tapes and does not exhibit
the splitting failure noted above.
.l
Hutchinson        Good Experiences: 0  Bad Experiences: 2
.l
Specialized       Good Experiences: 1  Bad Experiences: 4
.l
Rubber Tapes
.l
Advantages:
.l
Easy to install and remove. Good if the nipples are even with the rim
floor and there are no exposed spoke ends.
.l
Disadvantages:
.l
Stretch too easily and allow exposed nipple ends to rub through the
tape and then through the tape.
.l
Rubber strips     Good Experiences: 0  Bad Experiences: 2
.l
Cloth tapes woven of multi-directional fibers:
.l
Advantages:
.l
Easy to install. Do not fail under preassure.
.l
Disadvantages:
.l
They are a sticky tape and care must be taken not to pick up dirt if
they need to be removed and re-installed.
.l
Velox             Good Experiences:11  Bad Experiences: 0
.l
Velox rim tape comes in three different widths. Be sure to get the
widest tape that covers the floor of the rim without extending up the
walls of the rim. The stem hole may need to be enlarged to allow the
stem to seat properly. Otherwise the stem may push back into the tube
under preassure and cause a puncture at the base of the stem.
.l
Non-commercial rim tapes
.l
Fiberglass packing tape (1 or 2 layers)
.l
Advantages:
.l
Cheap. Readily available. Easy to install.
.l
Disadvantages:
.l
Impossible to remove. If access to the nipples is required, the tape
must be split and then either removed and replaced or taped over.
.l
Fiberglass packing tape       Good Experiences: 1  Bad Experiences: 1
.l
Duct tape (hey, someone tried it!!)
.l
Advantages:
.l
CHEAP. Readily available.
.l
Disadvantages:
.l
Useless. Becomes a gooey mess that is impossible to remove.
.l
Duct tape                     Good Experiences: 0  Bad Experiences: 1
.l
CONCLUSION
.l
While plastic tapes are easy to work with, they often fail. The clear
winner in this survey is the Velox woven cloth tape. A quick review of
mail order catalogs confirms the experiences of the net. Velox was
available in 5 out of 5 catalogs checked. It was the only rim tape
available in 3 of the catalogs. The other 2 had one or two plastic
tapes available. (None sold duct tape...)
.l
One good suggestion was a preassure rating for rim tapes much like the
preassure rating of tires.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Tech.STI/Ergo Summary
.c STI/Ergo Summary
.c (Ron Larson  [e-mail])
.l
This is the second posting of the summary of STI/Ergo experience. The
summary was modified to include more on STI durability and also the
range of shifting avaliable from each system. As before, I am open to
any comments or inputs.
.l
lars
.l
THE CASE FOR COMBINED SHIFTERS AND BRAKES.
.l
Shifters that are easily accessible from either the brakehoods or the
"drop" position are an advantage when sprinting or climbing because the
rider is not forced to commit to a single gear or loose power / cadence
by sitting down to reach the downtube shifters. They also make it much
easier to respond to an unexpected attack.
.l
At first the tendency is to shift more than is necessary. This tendency
levels out with experience. There is also an early tendency to do most
shifting from the bakehoods and the actuators seem to be difficult to
reach from the drop position. This discomfort goes away after a few
hundred miles of use (hey, how many times have I reached for the
downtube on my MTB or thumbshifters on my road bike???). All
experienced riders expressed pleasure with the ability to shift while
the hands were in any position, at a moments notice.
.l
The disadvantages are extra weight, added weight on the handlebars
(feels strange at first) and expense. Lack of a friction mode was
listed as a disadvantage by a rider who had tried out STI on someone
elses bike but does not have Ergo or STI. It was not noted as a problem
by riders with extended Ergo / STI experience. A comparison of the
weight of Record/Ergo components and the weight of the Record
components they would replace reveals that the total weight difference
is in the 2 to 4 ounce range (quite a spread - I came up with 2 oz from
various catalogs, Colorado Cyclist operator quoted 4 oz of the top of
his head). The weight difference for STI seems to be in the same
range. The change probably seems to be more because weight is shifted
from the downtube to the handlebars.
.l
There was some concern from riders who had not used either system
regarding the placement of the actuating buttons and levers for Ergo
and STI and their affect on hand positions. Riders with experience have
not had a problem with the placement of the actuators although one
rider stated that the STI brakehoods are more comfortable.
.l
ADVANTAGES OF EACH SYSTEM.
.l
The Sachs/Ergo system was mentioned as a separate system. In fact
(according to publications) it is manufactured By Campagnolo for Sachs
and is identical to the Campagnolo system with the exception of spacing
of the cogs on the freewheel/cassette. With the Ergo system, all
cables can be routed under the handlebar tape while the STI system does
not route the derailleur cables  under the tape. Those that voiced a
preference liked the clean look of the Ergo system.
.l
Both Ergo and STI seem to be fairly durable when crashed. Experience
of riders who have crashed with either system is that the housings may
be scratch and ground down but the system still works. The internal
mechanismsof both systems are well protected in a crash.
.l
Both Ergo and STI allow a downshift of about 3 cogs at a time. This
capability is very handy for shifting to lower gears in a corner to be
ready to attack as you come out of the corner or when caught by
surprise at a stop light. Ergo also allows a full upshift from the
largest to the smallest cog in a single motion while STI requires an
upshift of one cog at a time.
.l
Riders voiced their satisfaction with both systems. While some would
push one system over the other, these opinions were equally split.
.E
.!===========================================================================
.T Misc.Books and Magazines
.c Books and Magazines
.l
.c Magazines/Newsletters
.l
.a
Bicycling Magazine, and Bicycling Magazine+Mountain Bike insert
33 E Minor St
Emmaus, PA 18098
[phone]
.l
.t 4
Bicycle Guide
711 Boylston Street
Boston MA 02116
617-236-1885
.l
.t 4
Mountain Biking
7950 Deering Avenue
Canoga Park CA 91304
818-887-0550
.l
.t 5
Mountain Bike Action
Hi-Torque Publications, Inc.
10600 Sepulveda Boulevard
Mission Hills, CA 91345
818-365-6831
.l
.t 3
Velo News
P.O. Box 53397
Boulder, CO 80323-3397
.l
.t 4
Cycling Science
P.O. Box 1510
Mount Shasta, California 96067
[phone]
.l
.t 6
Human Power (The Journal of the IHPVA*)
(* IHPVA == International Human Powered Vehicle Association)
IHPVA
PO 51255
Indianapolis, IN 46251-0255
[phone]
.l
.t 5
OnTour: The Newsletter for Bicycle Tourists
OnTour Publications
2113 Arborview
Ann Arbor, MI 48103.
Sample issues are only $1, a six-issue subscription only $6
.l
.t 3
R.B.C.A./The Recumbent Cyclist
17650-B6-140th Ave. SE, Suite 341
Renton, WA 98058 USA
.l
.t 3
The Recumbent Bicycle Club of America
427 Amherst St  Suite 305
Nashua NH  03063 USA
.l
.t 5
Tandem Club of America
Malcolm Boyd & Judy Allison
19 Lakeside Drive NW
Medford Lakes, NJ   08550
Dues are currently $10/year
.l
.t 5
Dirt Rag
5742 Third St.
Verona, PA
(412) 795 - 7495
FAX  (412) 795 - 7439
.l
.t 7
CROSSWORDS -- The Hybrid/Cross Bike Enthusiast's Newsletter
CROSSWORDS
P.O. Box 3207
Walnut Creek, CA    94598
Published Quarterly; Single Issue: $2.50, Two Issues: $4.00
(Make checks payable to 'Mark Chandler')
Mail '[e-mail]' or 'Crosswords' (AOL) for more info
.p
.c Books
.l
.t 3
Bicycling Magazine's Complete Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair
Rodale Press
ISBN 0-87857-895-1
.l
.t 3
Effective Cycling by John Forester
MIT Press
ISBN 0-262-56026-7
.l
.t 3
The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt
Avocet
ISBN 0-9607236-2-5
.l
.t 3
Bicycle Maintenance Manual by Eugene A. Sloan
(a Fireside book, pub. Simon & Schuster, Inc.)
ISBN 0-671-42806-3
.l
.t 2
Anybody's Bike Book by Tom Cuthbertson
.l
.t 5
Bicycles and Tricycles - A Treatise on their Design.
By Archibald Sharp
MIT Press
(reportedly written around 1899 or so, with lots of interesting
information)
.l
.t 2
Bicycle Road Racing by Edward Borysewicz
.l
.t 2
The Woman Cycist by Elaine Mariolle
Contemporary Books
.l
.t 2
Touring on Two Wheels by Dennis Coello
Lyons and Berrfard, New York
.l
.t 4
The Bicyclist's Sourcebook by Michael Leccese and Arlene Plevin
Subtitled: "The Ultimate Directory of Cycling Information"
Woodbine House, Inc. $16.95
ISBN 0-933149-41-7
.l
.t 3
Colorado Cycling Guide by Jean and Hartley Alley
Pruett Publishing Company
Boulder, Colorado
.l
.t 2
The Canadian Rockies Bicycling Guide by Gail Helgason and John Dodd
Lone Pine Publishing,Edmonton, Alberta
.l
.t 2
A Women's Guide to Cycling by Susan Weaver
.l
.t 2
Favorite Pedal Tours of Northern California by Naomi Bloom
Fine Edge Productions, Route 2, Box 303, Bishop, CA  93514
.l
.t 2
Mountain Biking Near Boston: A Guide to the Best 25 Places to Ride
by Stuart A. Johnstone, Active Publications (1991), ISBN 0-9627990-4-1
.l
.t 2
Mountain Bike: a manual of beginning to advanced technique
by William Nealy, Menasha Ridge Press, 1992, ISBN 0-89732-114-6
.l
.t 3
Greater Washington (DC) Area Bicycle Atlas
American Youth Travel Shops, 1108 K St, NW  Wash, DC 20005 [phone]
$12.95
.l
.t 3
Bicycle Parking by Ellen Fletcher
Ellen Fletcher, 777-108 San Antonio Road, Palo Alto, CA 94303-4826
Cost: $5.95, plus 43 cents tax, plus $3 postage/handling
.f
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Mail Order Addresses
.c Mail Order Addresses
.l
Here's the addresses/phone numbers of some popular cycling mail order
outfits (you can get directory assistance for 800 numbers at 1-800-555-1212
if you don't see the mail order outfit you're looking for here):
.a
.l
Bicycle Posters and Prints
P.O. Box 7164
Hicksville, NY 11802-7164
Sells bicycle posters and other stuff.
.l 2
Branford Bike
orders:  1-800-272-6367
info:      203-488-0482
fax:       [phone]
.l 2
Colorado Cyclist
orders:  1-800-688-8600
info:      719-576-3474
fax:       [phone]
.l
2455 Executive Circle
Colorado Springs, CO 80906
.l 2
Cyclo-Pedia
[phone]
.l
P.O. Box 884
Adrian MI  49221
Catalog $1 as of 4/91.
.l 2
Excel Sports International
orders:  1-800-627-6664
info:      303-444-6737
fax:       [phone]
.l
3275 Prairie Ave. #1
Boulder, CO  80301
.l 2
Loose Screws
[phone]
[phone] FAX
.l
12225 HWY 66
Ashland OR 97520
.l 2
Nashbar
orders:  1-800-627-4227  (1-800-NASHBAR)
.i 11
216-782-2244  Local and APO/FPO orders
info:      216-788-6464  Tech. Support
fax:       [phone]
.l
4111 Simon Road
Youngstown, OH 44512-1343
.l 2
Performance Bike Shop
orders:  1-800-727-2453  (1-800-PBS-BIKE)
.i 11
919-933-9113  Foreign orders
info:      800-727-2433  Customer Support
fax:
.l
One Performance Way
P.O. Box 2741
Chapel Hill, NC 27514
.l 2
Schwab Cycles
orders:  1-800-343-5347
info:      303-238-0243
fax:       [phone]
.l
1565 Pierce St.
Lakewood, CO  80214
.l 2
Triathlete Zombies
(800-999-2215)
.l 2
The Womyn's Wheel, Inc.
(Specializes in clothing and equipment for women)
603-926-4939
.l
540 Lafayette Rd.
Suite 7
Hampton NH 03842
.f
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Road Gradient Units
.c Road Gradient Units
.c (Jeff Berton [e-mail])
.l
The grade of an incline is its vertical rise, in feet, per every 100
horizontal feet traversed. (I say "feet" for clarity;  one could use any
consistent length measure.)  Or, if you will accept my picture below,
.l
.a
                                                 *
                                              d  |
                                          a      |
                                      o          | y
                                  R  Theta       |
                              *___)______________|
                                        x
then
      Grade = y/x        (Multiply by 100 to express as a percentage.)
and
      Theta = arctan(y/x)
.f
.l
So a grade of 100% is a 45 degree angle. A cliff has an infinite grade.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Helmets
.c Helmets
.l
The wearing of helmets is another highly emotional issue that has been
debated many times on rec.bicycles. On one side, you have the cyclists who
feel that they can do without - the helmet is too hot, uncomfortable, or
they feel they just don't need it. On the other side, you have the cyclists
who wouldn't be caught riding without a helmet - they like their head (and
brains) they way they are.
.l
Statistics show that three-fourths of the more than 1000 bicycling deaths
each year are caused by head injuries. Of those killed, half are school age
children. According to one study, a helmet can reduce the risk of head
injury by 85%.
.l
Consumer Reports did a review of bicycle helmets in the May 1990 issue.
While their report is not what one would see in a cycling magazine, it does
contain some useful and valuable information. Their tests showed that
no-shell helmets work just as well as hard-shell helmets, and in fact, the
top 9 helmets in their ratings are no-shell models.
.l
There is some controversy about whether no-shell helmets "grab" the pavement
instead of sliding on impact. If the helmet grabbed, it might lead to more
serious neck or spinal injury. This topic has been hotly debated in
rec.bicycles, and some studies are in progress to see if this is true.
.l
There are two standards systems for helmets - ANSI (American National
Standards Institute) and Snell (the Snell Memorial Foundation). The Snell
tests are more demanding than ANSI, and a Snell-certified helmet will have a
green Snell sticker inside. Some helmets claim they pass Snell, but unless
there's a sticker in the helmet, you can't be sure. Snell also tests
samples of certified helmets to make sure they still meet the standards.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Terminology
.c Terminology
.c (David Keppel  [e-mail])
.c (Charles Tryon  [e-mail])
.l
.c Ashtabula Crank
A one-piece crank -- the crank arm starts on one side of the bike, bends to
go through the bottom bracket, and bends again on the other side to go down
to the other pedal. Typically heavy, cheap, and robust. See ``cottered
crank'' and ``cotterless crank''. Ashtabula is the name of the original
manufacturer, I think.
.l
.c Biopace Chainring
Chainrings that are more oval rather than round. The idea was to
redistribute the forces of pedaling to different points as your feet go
around, due to the fact that there are "dead spots" in the stroke. The
concensus is pretty much that they work ok for novices, but get in the way
for more experienced riders.
.l
.c Cassette Freewheel
A cassette freewheel is used with a freehub. The part of a normal freewheel
that contains the pawls that transfer chain motion to the wheel (or allows
the wheel to spin while the chain doesn't move) is part of the wheel hub.
The cassette is the cogs, usually held together with small screws.
.l
.c Cleat
A cleat attaches to the bottom of a cycling shoe. Older style cleats have a
slot that fits over the back of the pedal, and in conjunction with toe clips
and straps, hold your foot on the pedal. New "clipless" pedals have a
specially designed cleat that locks into the pedal, sometimes with some
ability to move side-to-side so as not to stress knees.
.l
.c Cottered Crank
A three-piece crank with two arms and an axle. The arms each have a hole
that fits over the end of the axle and a second hole that runs tangential to
the first. The crank axle has a tangential notch at each end. A *cotter*
is a tapered and rounded bar of metal that is inserted in the tangential
hole in the crank arm and presses against the tangential notch in the crank
axle. The cotter is held in place by a nut screwed on at the thin end of
the cotter. Ideally, the cotter is removed with a special tool. Often,
however, it is removed by banging on it with a hammer. If you do the latter
(gads!) be sure (a) to unscrew the nut until the end of the cotter is nearly
flush, but leave it on so that it will straighten the threads when you
unscrew it farther and (b) brace the other side of the crank with something
very solid (the weight of the bike should be resting on that `something') so
that the force of the banging is not transmitted through the bottom bracket
bearings.
.l
.c Cotterless Crank
A three-piece crank with two arms and an axle. Currently (1991) the most
common kind of crank. The crank axle has tapered square ends, the crank
arms have mating tapered square ends. The crank arm is pressed on and the
taper ensures a snug fit. The crank arm is drawn on and held in place with
either nuts (low cost, ``nutted'' cotterless cranks) or with bolts. A
special tool is required to remove a cotterless crank.
.l
.c Crank Axle
The axle about which the crank arms and pedals revolve. May be integrated
with the cranks (Ashtabula) or a separate piece (cottered and cotterless).
.l
.c Fender
Also called a ``mudguard''. Looked down upon by tweak cyclists, but used
widely in the Pacific Northwest and many non-US parts of the world. Helps
keep the rider cleaner and drier. Compare to ``rooster tail''.
.l
.c Frame Table
A big strong table that Will Not Flex and which has anchors at critical
places -- dropouts, bottom bracket, seat, head. It also has places to attach
accurate measuring instruments like dial gauges, scratch needles, etc. The
frame is clamped to the table and out-of-line parts are yielded into
alignment.
.l
.c High-Wheeler
A bicycle with one large wheel and one small wheel. The commonest are large
front/small rear. A small number are small front/large rear. See
``ordinary'' or ``penny-farthing'' and contrast to ``safety''.
.l
.c Hyperglide Freewheel
Freewheel cogs with small "ramps" cut into the sides of the cogs which tend
to pull the chain more quickly to the next larger cog when shifting.
.l
.c Ordinary
See ``penny-farthing''.
.l
.c Penny-Farthing
An old-fashioned ``high wheeler'' bicycle with a large (60", 150cm) front
wheel and a much smaller rear wheel, the rider sits astride the front wheel
and the pedals are connected directly to the front wheel like on many
children's tricycles. Also called ``ordinary'', and distinguished from
either a small front/large rear high wheeler or a ``safety'' bicycle.
.l
.c Rooster Tail
A spray of water flung off the back wheel as the bicycle rolls through
water. Particularly pronounced on bikes without fenders. See also
``fender''.
.l
.c Safety
Named after the ``Rover Safety'' bicycle, the contemporary layout of
equal-sized wheels with rear chain drive. Compare to ``ordinary''.
.l
.c Spindle
See ``crank axle''.
.l
.c Three-Piece Crank
A cottered or cotterless crank; compare to Ashtabula.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Avoiding Dogs
.c Avoiding Dogs
.c (Arnie Berger  [e-mail])
.l
There are varying degrees of defense against dogs.
.l
1- Shout "NO!" as loud and authoritatively as you can. That works more than
half the time against most dogs that consider chasing you just good sport.
.l
2- Get away from their territory as fast as you can.
.l
3- A water bottle squirt sometimes startles them.
.l
4- If you're willing to sacifice your pump, whump'em on the head when they
come in range.
.l
If they're waiting for you in the road and all you can see are teeth then
you in a heap o' trouble. In those situations, I've turned around, slowly,
not staring at the dog, and rode away. When I have been in a stand off
situation, I keep the bike between me and the dog.
.l
"Halt" works pretty well, and I've used it at times. It's range is about 8
feet.
.l
I bought a "DAZER", from Heathkit. Its a small ultrasonic sound generator
that you point at the dog. My wife and I were tandeming on a back road and
used it on a mildly aggressive German Shephard. It seemed to cause the dog
to back off.
.l
By far, without a doubt, hands down winner, is a squirt bottle full of
reagent grade ammonia, fresh out of the jug. The kind that fumes when you
remove the cap. When I lived in Illinois I had a big, mean dog that put its
cross-hairs on my leg whenever I went by. After talking to the owner
(redneck), I bought a handebar mount for a water bottle and loaded it with a
lab squirt bottle of the above mentioned fluid. Just as the dog came
alongside, I squirted him on his nose, eyes and mouth. The dog stopped dead
in his tracks and started to roll around in the street. Although I continued
to see that dog on my way to and from work, he never bothered me again.
.l
Finally, you can usually intimidate the most aggressive dog if there are
more than one of you. Stopping, getting off your bikes and moving towards it
will often cause it to back off. ( But not always ). My bottom line is to
alway ride routes that I'm not familiar with, with someone else.
.l
As last resort, a nice compact, snubbed nose .25 caliber pistol will fit
comfortably in your jersey pocket. :-)
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Shaving Your Legs
.c Shaving Your Legs
.c How to do it
.c (Garth Somerville  [e-mail])
.l
Many riders shave their legs and have no problems other than a nick or two
once in a while. Maybe a duller blade would help. But some people (like me)
need to be more careful to avoid rashes, infections (which can be serious),
or just itchy legs that drive you to madness. For those people, here is my
leg shaving procedure:
.l
Each time you shave your legs...
.b
1) Wash your legs with soap and water, and a wash cloth. This removes dirt,
oil, and dead skin cells.
.b
2) Use a good blade and a good razor. I prefer a blade that has a
lubricating strip (e.g. Atra blades). It is my personal experience that a
used blade is better than a new one. I discard the blade when the
lubricating strip is used up.
.b
3) USE SHAVING CREAM. I prefer the gell type, and the kinds with aloe in
them seem to be the best. Shaving cream gives you a better shave with fewer
cuts, and goes a long way towards preventing infection.
.b
4) Use *COLD* water. Do not use hot water, do not use warm water, use the
coldest water you can stand. Run the cold water over your legs before you
start, and rinse the blade often in cold water.
.b
5) Be careful, and take your time. Behind the knees, and around the achilles
 tendon are places to be extra careful.
.b
6) When finished, use a moisturizing lotion on your legs.
.p
.c Why shave legs
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
Oh wow, after the initial responses to this subject I thought we could skip
the posturing. The reason for shaving legs is the same for women, weight
lifters, body builders and others who have parts of their bodies that they
choose to display. It is not true that General Schwarzkopf had all the
troops shave their legs and arms before going into combat to prevent
infectious hair from killing injured soldiers, and I am sure it will never
happen.
.l
Not only the shaving but the rub-downs with all sorts of oils at the bike
track are for the same reason bodybuilders oil up. It reflects well from
the muscle defo. Of course there are others who claim you can't get a
massage without shaving. There is no medical proof that hair presents any
hazard when crashing on a road with dirt that gets into a wound. It must
all be thoroughly cleaned if it goes beyond superficial road rash.
.l
From my experience with cyclists from east block countries before Glasnost,
none of them shaved because it was not in their charter to look beautiful
but rather to win medals.
.l
I think shaved legs look good and I don't mind saying so. I just find it
silly that those who shave need to put it forth as a preparation for
crashing. Is it necessary to find a reason other than vanity? If you
believe these stories then you might consider the whole pile of lore in
bicycling that also has no foundation in fact but is often retold. But then
some bicyclists and followers of other pursuits, want to believe in the
mysteries that are handed down by the elders and must be taken on faith. It
forms proof of initiation for some.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Contact Leses and Cycling
.c Contact Lenses and Cycling
.c (Robert A. Novy  [e-mail])
.l
I received on the order of 50 replies to my general query about contact
lenses and bicycling. Thank you! To summarize, I have been wearing glasses
for nearly all of my 28 years, and taking up bicycling has at last made me
weary of them.
.l
I visited an optometrist last week, and he confirmed what I had lightly
feared: I am farsighted with some astigmatism, so gas-permeable hard lenses
are the ticket. He has had about a 25% success rate with soft lenses in
cases such as mine. I am now acclimating my eyes to the lenses, adding one
hour of wear per day. In case these don't work out, I'll try two options.
First, bicycle without prescription lenses (my sight is nearly 20-20 without
any). Second, get a pair of prescription sport glasses.
.l
I had a particular request for a summary, and this is likely a topic of
great interest, so here goes. Please recognize the pruning that I must do
to draw generalizations from many opinions. Some minority views might be
overlooked. There is one nearly unanimous point: contact lenses are much
more convenient than eyeglasses. I had to add the word "nearly" because I
just saw one voice of dissent. Sandy A. ([e-mail]) has
found that prescription glasses are better suited to mountain biking on
dusty trails.
.l
You can call me Doctor, but I have no medical degree. This is only friendly
advice from a relatively ignorant user of the Internet. See the first point
below!
.l
IN GENERAL
.l
+  Get a reputable optometrist or ophthalmologist. Your eyes are precious.
[Paul Taira ([e-mail]) even has an iterative check-and-balance
setup between his ophthalmologist and a contact lens professional.]
.l
+  Wear sunglasses, preferably wrap-arounds, to keep debris out of eyes, to
keep them from tearing or drying out, and to shield them from ultraviolet
rays, which might or might NOT be on the rise.
.l
+  Contacts are not more hazardous than glasses in accidents.
.l
+  Contacts improve peripheral and low-light vision.
.l
+  Extended-wear soft lenses are usually the best. Next come regular soft
lenses and then gas-permeable hard lenses. Of course, there are dissenting
opinions here. I'm glad to see that some people report success with gas
perms.
.l
+  One's prescription can limit the types of lenses available. And soft
lenses for correcting astigmatisms seem pesky, for they tend to rotate and
thus defocus the image. This is true even for the new type that are
weighted to help prevent this. Seems that near-sighted people have the most
choices.
.l
+  If one type or brand of lens gives discomfort, try another. Don't suffer
with it, and don't give up on contact lenses altogether.
.l
BEWARE
.l
+  Some lenses will tend to blow off the eye. Soft lenses are apparently
the least susceptible to this problem.
.l
PARTICULAR SUGGESTIONS
.l
+  Consider disposable lenses. They may well be worth it.
.l
+  Carry a tiny bottle of eye/lens reconditioner and a pair of eyeglasses
just in case.
.l
A POSSIBLE AUTHORITY
.l
From David Elfstrom ([e-mail]):
Hamano and Ruben, _Contact Lenses_, Prentice-Hall Canada, 1985, ISBN
0-13-169970-9.
I haven't laid hands on it, but it sounds relevant.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.deal with your clothes
.c How to deal with your clothes
.l
When you commute by bike to work, you'd probably like to have clean clothes
that don't look like they've been at the bottom of your closet for a couple
of years. Here are some suggestions for achieving this goal:
.l
Take a week's worth of clothes to work ahead of time and leave them there.
You'll probably have to do this in a (gasp!) car. This means that you'll
need room in your office for the clothes.
.l
Carefully pack your clothes in a backpack/pannier and take them to work each
day. It has been suggested that rolling your clothes rather than folding
them, with the least-likely to wrinkle on the inside. This method may not
work too well for the suit-and-tie crowd, but then I wouldn't know about
that. :-)
.l
I use the second method, and I leave a pair of tennis shoes at work so I
don't have to carry them in. This leaves room in my backpack for a
sweatshirt in case it's a cool day.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Pete's Winter cycling Tips
.c Pete's Winter Cycling Tips
.c (Pete Hickey  [e-mail])
.l
I am a commuter who cycles year round. I have been doing it for about
twelve years. Winters here in Ottawa are relatively cold and snowy. Ottawa
is the second coldest capital in the world. The following comments are the
results my experiences. I am not recommending them, only telling you what
works for me. You may find it useful, or you may find the stupid things
that I do are humorous.
.l
PRELUDE
.l
Me:
.l
I am not a real cyclist. I just ride a bicycle. I have done a century, but
that was still commuting. There was a networking conference 110 miles away,
so I took my bicycle. There and back. (does that make two centuries?)  I
usually do not ride a bicycle just for a ride. Lots of things I say may
make real cyclists pull out their hair. I have three kids, and cannot
*afford* to be a bike weenie.
.l
People often ask me why I do it.... I don't know. I might say that it
saves me money, but no. Gasoline produces more energy per dollar than food.
(OK, I suppose if I would eat only beans, rice and pasta with nothing on
them.... I like more variety) Do I do it for the environment? Nah! I never
take issues with anything. I don't ride for health, although as I get
older, I appreciate the benefits. I guess I must do it because I like it.
.l 2
Definitions
.l
Since words like "very", "not too", etc. are very subjective, I will use the
following definitions:
.l
.a
Cold : greater than  15 degrees F
Very cold : 0 through 15 Degrees F
Extreme cold : -15 through 0 degrees F
Insane cold: below -15 degrees F
.f
.l 2
Basic philosophy
.l
I have two:
.l
1) If its good, don't ruin it, if its junk you needn't worry.
.l
2) I use a brute force algorithm of cycling: Peddle long enough, and you'll
get there.
.l
Bicycle riding in snow and ice is a problem of friction: Too much of the
rolling type, and not enough of the sideways type.
.l 2
Road conditions:
.l
More will be covered below, but now let it suffice to say that a lot of salt
is used on the roads here. Water splashed up tastes as salty as a cup of
Lipton Chicken soup to which an additional spool of salt has been added.
Salt eats metal. Bicycles dissolve.
.l
EQUIPMENT:
.l
Bicycle:
.l
Although I have a better bicycle which I ride in nice weather, I buy my
commuting bikes at garage sales for about $25.00. They're disposable. Once
they start dissolving, I remove any salvageable parts, then throw the rest
away.
.l
Right now, I'm riding a '10-speed' bike. I used to ride mountain bikes, but
I'm back to the '10-speed'. Here's why. Mountain bikes cost $50.00 at the
garage sales. They're more in demand around here. Since I've ridden both,
I'll comment on each one.
.l
The Mountain bikes do have better handling, but they're a tougher to ride
through deep snow. The 10-speed cuts through the deep snow better. I can
ride in deeper snow with it, and when the snow gets too deep to ride, its
easier to carry.
.l
Fenders on the bike? Sounds like it might be a good idea, and someday I'll
try it out. I think, however, that snow/ice will build up between the
fender and the tire causing it to be real tough to pedal. I have a rack on
the back with a piece of plywood to prevent too much junk being thrown on my
back.
.l
I would *like* to be able to maintain the bike, but its tough to work
outside in the winter. My wife (maybe I should write to Dear Abbey about
this) will not let me bring my slop covered bicycle through the house to get
it in the basement. About once a month We have a warm enough day that I am
able to go out with a bucket of water, wash all of the gunk off of the bike,
let it dry and then bring it in.
.l
I tear the thing down, clean it and put it together with lots of grease. I
use some kind of grease made for farm equipment that is supposed to be more
resistant to the elements. When I put it together, I grease the threads,
then cover the nuts, screws, whatever with a layer of grease. This prevents
them from rusting solidly in place making it impossible to remove.
Protection against corrosion is the primary purpose of the grease.
Lubrication is secondary. remember to put a drop of oil on the threads of
each spoke, otherwise, the spokes rust solidly, and its impossible to do any
truing
.l
Outside, I keep a plastic ketchup squirter, which I fill with automotive oil
(lately its been 90 weight standard transmission oil). Every two or three
days, I use it to re-oil my chain and derailleur, and brakes. It drips all
over the snow beneath me when I do it, and gets onto my 'cuffs'(or whatever
you call the bottom of those pants. See, I told you I don't cycle for the
environment. I probably end up dumping an ounce of heavy oil into the snow
run-off each year.
.l 2
Clothing
.l
Starting at the bottom, on my feet I wear Sorell Caribou boots. These are
huge ugly things, but they keep my feet warm. I have found that in extreme
to insane cold, my toes get cold otherwise. These boots do not make it easy
to ride, but they do keep me warm (see rule 2, brute force). They do not
fit into any toe-clips that I have seen. I used to wear lighter things for
less cold weather, but I found judging the weather to be a pain. If its not
too cold, I ride with them half unlaced. The colder it gets, the more I
lace them, and finally, I'll tie them.
.l
Fortunately, wet days are not too cold, and cold days are not wet. When its
dry, I wear a pair of cycling shorts, and one or two (depending on temp and
wind) cotton sweat pants covering that. I know about lycra and polypro (and
use them for skiing), but these things are destroyed by road-dirt, slush and
mud.(see rule 1 above). I save my good clothes for x-country skiing.
.l
An important clothing item in extreme to insane cold, is a third sock. You
put it in your pants. No, not to increase the bulge to impress the girls,
but for insulation. Although several months after it happens it may be
funny, when it does  happens, frostbite on the penis is not funny. I speak
from experience! Twice, no less! I have no idea of what to recommend to
women in this section.
.l
Next in line, I wear a polypro shirt, covered by a wool sweater, covered by
a 'ski-jacket' (a real ugly one with a stripe up the back. The ski jacket
protects the rest of my clothes, and I can regulate my temperature with the
zipper in front.
.l
I usually take a scarf with me. For years I have had a fear that the scarf
would get caught in the spokes, and I'd be strangled in the middle of the
street, but it has not yet happened. When the temp is extreme or colder, I
like keeping my neck warm. I have one small problem. Sometimes the
moisture in my breath will cause the scarf to freeze to my beard.
.l
On my hands, I wear wool mittens when its not too cold, and when it gets
really cold, I wear my cross-country skiing gloves (swix) with wool mittens
covering them. Hands sweat in certain areas (at least mine do), and I like
watching the frost form on the outside of the mittens. By looking at the
frost, I can tell which muscles are working. I am amused by things like
this.
.l
On my head, I wear a toque (Ski-hat?) covered by a bicycle helmet. I don't
wear one of those full face masks because I haven't yet been able to find
one that fits well with eye glasses. In extreme to insane cold, my forehead
will often get quite cold, and I have to keep pulling my hat down. The
bottoms of my ears sometimes stick out from my hat, and they're always
getting frostbitten. This year, I'm thinking of trying my son's Lifa/polypro
balaclava. Its thin enough so that it won't bother me, and I only need a bit
more protection from frostbite.
.l
I carry my clothes for the day in a knapsack. Everything that goes in the
knapsack goes into a plastic bag. Check the plastic bag often for leaks. A
small hole near the top may let in water which won't be able to get out.
The net result is that things get more wet than would otherwise be expected.
The zippers will eventually corrode. Even the plastic ones become useless
after a few years.
.l 2
RIDING:
.l
In the winter, the road is narrower. There are snow banks on either side.
Cars do not expect to see bicycles. There are less hours of daylight, and
the its harder to maintain control of the bicycle. Be careful.
.l
I don't worry about what legal rights I have on the road, I simply worry
about my life. I'd rather crash into a snow bank for sure rather than take
a chance of crashing into a car. I haven't yet had a winter accident in 12
years. I've intentionally driven into many snow banks.
.l
Sometimes, during a storm, I get into places where I just can't ride. It is
sometimes necessary to carry the bicycle across open fields. When this
happens, I appreciate my boots.
.l
It takes a lot more energy to pedal. Grease gets thick, and parts (the
bicycle's and mine) don't seem to move as easily. My traveling time
increases about 30% in nice weather, and can even double during a raging
storm.
.l
The wind seems to be always worse in winter. It's not uncommon to have to
pedal to go down hills.
.l
Be careful on slushy days. Imagine an 8 inch snowfall followed by rain.
This produces heavy slush. If a car rides quickly through deep slush, it
may send a wave of the slush at you. This stuff is heavy. When it hits you,
it really throws you off balance. Its roughly like getting a 10 lbs sack of
rotten potatoes thrown at your back. This stuff could even knock over a
pedestrian.
.l
Freezing rain is the worst. Oddly enough, I find it easier to ride across a
parking lot covered with wet smooth ice than it is to walk across it. The
only problem is that sometimes the bicycle simply slides sideways out from
under you. I practice unicycle riding, and that may help my balance.
(Maybe not, but its fun anyway)
.l
Beware of bridges that have metal grating. This stuff gets real slippery
when snow covered. One time, I slid, hit an expansion joint, went over the
handle bars, over the railing of the bridge. I don't know how, but one arm
reached out and grabbed the railing. Kind of like being MacGyver.
.l
Stopping.
.l
There are several ways of stopping. The first one is to use the brakes.
This does not always work. Breaks can ice up, a bit of water gets between
the cable and its sheathing when the warm afternoon sun shines on the bike.
It freezes solid after. Or the salt causes brake cables to break, etc. I
have had brakes work on one corner, but stop working by the time I get to
the next. I have several other means of stopping.
.l
The casual method. For a stop when you have plenty of time. Rest the ball
of your foot on top of the front derailleur, and *gradually* work your heel
between the tire and the frame. By varying the pressure, you can control
your speed. Be sure that you don't let your foot get wedged in there!
.l
Faster method. Get your pedals in the 6-12 O'clock position. Stand up. The
6 O'clock foot remains on the pedal, while you place the other foot on the
ground in front of the pedal. By varying your balance, you can apply more
or less pressure to your foot. The pedal, wedged against the back of your
calf, forces your foot down more, providing more friction.
.l
Really fast! Start with the fast method, but then dismount while sliding
the bicycle in front of you. You will end up sliding on your two feet,
holding onto the bike in front for balance. If it gets *really* critical,
throw the bike ahead of you, and sit down and roll. Do not do this on dry
pavement, your feet need to be able to slide.
.l
In some conditions, running into a snow bank on the side will stop you
quickly, easily, and safely. If you're going too fast, you might want to
dive off of the bicycle over the side. Only do this when the snow bank is
soft. Make sure that there isn't a car hidden under that soft snow. Don't
jump into fire hydrants either.
.l
ETC.
.l
Freezing locks. I recommend carrying a BIC lighter. Very often the lock
will get wet, and freeze solid. Usually the heat from my hands applied for
a minute or so (a real minute or so, not what seems like a minute) will melt
it, but sometimes it just needs more than that.
.l
Eating Popsicles
.l
Something I like doing in the winter is to buy a Popsicle before I leave,
and put it in my pocket. It won't melt! I take it out and start eating it
just as I arrive at the University. Its fun to watch peoples' expressions
when they see me, riding in the snow, eating a Popsicle.
.l 2
You have to be careful with Popsicles in the winter. I once had a horrible
experience. You know how when you are a kid, your parents told you never to
put your tongue onto a metal pole? In very cold weather, a Popsicle acts the
same way. If you are not careful, your upper lip, lower lip, and tongue
become cemented to the Popsicle. Although this sounds funny when I write
about it, it was definitely not funny when it happened.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Nancy's Cold/Wet Tips
.c Nancy's Cold/Wet Cycling Tips
.c (Nancy Piltch  [e-mail])
.l
Here are some clothing suggestions, mix and match as you wish:
.l
Rain gear : I forked out the dollars for gore-tex when I did a week tour
... and I'm real glad I did. The stuff works reasonably as claimed,
waterproof, and relatively breathable. (When the humidity is high, no
fabric will work completely at letting sweat evaporate.) Unfortunately,
typical prices are high. There are cheaper rainsuits, which I haven't tried.
For short rides, or when the temperature is over about 50F, I don't
usually wear the rain pants, as wet legs don't particularly bother me.
.l
Waterproof shoe covers. When the weather gets icky, I give up on the cleats
(I'm not riding for performance then, anyway) and put the old-style pedals
back on. This is basically because of the shoe covers I have that work
better with touring shoes. The ones I have are made by Burley, and are
available from Bikecentennial, though I got them at a local shop. They are
just  the cover, no insulation. I continue to use them in winter since they
are windproof, and get the insulation I need from warm socks. These aren't
neoprene, but rather some high-tech waterproof fabric.
.l
Gaiters that hikers and cross-country skiers wear can help keep road spray
off your legs and feet.
.l
Toe clip covers. I got them from Nashbar; they are insulated and fit over
the toe clips ... another reason for  going back to those pedals. They help
quite a bit when the temperature goes into the 30's and below; they are too
warm above that.
.l
For temperatures in the 40's I usually find that a polypropylene shirt,
lightweight sweater (mine is polypro) and wind shell work well; I use the
gore-tex jacket, since I have it, but any light weight jacket is OK. I have
a lightweight pair of nylon-lycra tights, suitable in the 50's, and maybe
the 40's; a heavier pair of polypro tights, for 40's, and a real warm pair
of heavy, fleece-lined tights for colder weather. (I have been comfortable
in them down to about 15-deg, which is about the minimum I will ride in.) My
tights are several years old, and I think there are lots more variations on
warm tights out now. I use thin polypro glove liners with my cycling gloves
when it is a little cool; lightweight gloves  for a little bit cooler;
gore-tex and thinsulate gloves for cold weather (with the glove liners in
the really cold weather.) It is really my fingers that limit my cold weather
riding, as anything any thicker than that limits my ability to work brake
levers. (Note: this may change this year as I've just bought a mountain
bike; the brake levers are much more accessible than on my road bike. It may
be possible to ride with warm over-mitts over a wool or similar glove.)
.l
When it gets down to the 20's, or if it's windy at warmer (!)  temperatures,
I'll add the gore-tex pants from my rain suit, mostly as wind protection,
rather than rain protection. Cheaper wind pants are available (either at
bike shops or at sporting goods stores) that will work just as well for that
use.
.l
Warm socks. There are lots of choices; I use 1 pair of wool/polypropylene
hiking socks (fairly thick). Then with the rain covers on my shoes to keep
out wind, and (if necessary) the toe clip covers, I'm warm enough. There are
also thin sock liners, like my glove liners, but I haven't needed them;
there are also neoprene socks, which I've never tried, and neoprene shoe
covers, which I've also never tried, and wool socks, and ski socks ...
.l
I have a polypropylene balaclava which fits comfortably under my helmet;
good to most of the temperatures I'm willing to ride in; a little too warm
for temperatures above freezing, unless it's also windy. I also have an
ear-warmer band, good for 40's and  useful with the balaclava for miserable
weather. I also have a neoprene face mask; dorky looking, but it works. It
is definitely too hot until the temperature (or wind) gets severe. I
sometimes add ski goggles for the worst conditions, but they limit
peripheral vision, so I only use them if I'm desperate.
.l
For temperatures in the 30's, and maybe 20's, I wear a polarfleece pullover
thing under the outer shell. Combining that with or without polypro
(lightweight) sweater or serious duty wool sweater gives a lot of options.
Sometimes I add a down vest -- I prefer it *outside* my shell (contrary to
usual wisdom) because I usually find it too warm once I start moving and
want to unzip it, leaving the wind shell closed for wind protection. I only
use the down vest when it's below about 15 F.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Studded Tires
.c Studded Tires
.c (Nancy Piltch  [e-mail])
.l
[A summary on studded tires compiled by Nancy. A complete copy of the
responses she received, including some that give directions for making your
own studded tires, is in the archive.]
.l
Studded tires do help, especially on packed snow and ice. On fresh snow and
on water mixed with snow (i.e. slush) they're not significantly different
from unstudded knobbies.
.l
On dry pavement they are noisy and heavy, but can be used; watch out for
cornering, which is degraded compared to unstudded tires.
.l
Several people recommend a Mr. Tuffy or equivalent with them; one respondent
says he gets more flats with a liner than without.
.l
In the U.S. the IRC Blizzard tires are commercially available. They can also
be made.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Cycling Myths
.c Cycling Myths
.l
Following are various myths about cycling and why they are/aren't true.
.l 2
Myth: Wearing a helmet makes your head hotter than if you didn't wear one.
.l
Actual measurements under hard riding conditions with ANSI standard helmets
show no consistent temperature difference from helmetless riders. Part of
the reason is that helmets provide insulated protection from the sun as well
as some airflow around the head. (Les Earnest  [e-mail])
.l 2
Myth: You need to let the air out of your tires before shipping your bike on
an airplane - if you don't, the tires will explode.
.l
Assume your tire at sea level, pumped to 100 psi. Air pressure at sea level
is (about) 15psi. Therefore, the highest pressure which can be reached in
the tire is 100+15=115psi. Ergo: There is no need to deflate bicycle tires
prior to flight to avoid explosions. (Giles Morris  [e-mail])
Addendum: The cargo hold is pressurized to the same pressure as the
passenger compartment. (Tom ? [e-mail])
.l 2
Myth: You can break a bike lock with liquid nitrogen or other gases
.l
Freon cannot cool the lock sufficiently to do any good. Steel conducts heat
into the cooling zone faster than it can be removed by a freeze bomb at the
temperatures of interest. Liquid nitrogen or other gasses are so cumbersome
to handle that a lock on a bike cannot be immersed as it must be to be
effective. The most common and inconspicuous way to break these locks is by
using a 4 inch long 1 inch diameter commercial hydraulic jack attached to a
hose and pump unit. (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
[More myths welcome!]
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Descending I
.c Descending I
.c (Roger Marquis  [e-mail])
.l
.i 5
Descending ability, like any other skill, is best improved with practice.
The more time you can spend on technical descents the more confidence and
speed you will be able to develop. A few local hot shots I know practice on
their motorcycles before races with strategic descents. While frequent group
rides are the only way to develop real bike handling skills descending with
others will not necessarily help you descend faster alone.
.l
.i 5
The most important aspect of fast descending is relaxation. Too much anxiety
can narrow your concentration and you will miss important aspects of the
road surface ahead. Pushing the speed to the point of fear will not help
develop descending skills. Work on relaxation and smoothness (no sudden
movements, braking or turning) and the speed will follow.
.l
.i 5
A fast descender will set up well in advance of the corner on the outside,
do whatever braking needs to be done before beginning to turn, hit the apex
at the inside edge of the road, finally exiting again on the outside (always
leaving some room for error or unforeseen road hazard). The key is to
_gradually_ get into position and _smoothly_ follow your line through the
corner. If you find yourself making _any_ quick, jerky movements take them
as a sign that you need to slow down and devote a little more attention
further up the road.
.l
.i 5
Use your brakes only up to the beginning of a corner, NEVER USE THE BRAKES
IN A CORNER. At that point any traction used for braking significantly
reduces the traction available for cornering. If you do have to brake after
entering the curve straighten out your line before applying the brakes. If
the road surface is good use primarily the front brake. If traction is poor
switch to the rear brake and begin breaking earlier. In auto racing circles
there are two schools of thought on braking technique. One advocates
gradually releasing the brakes upon entering the corner, the other advises
hard braking right up to the beginning of the curve and abruptly releasing
the brakes just before entering the curve. A cyclists would probably combine
the techniques depending on the road surface, rim trueness, brake pad
hardness and the proximity of other riders.
.l
.i 5
Motorcyclists and bicyclists lean their bikes very differently in a corner.
When riding fast motorcyclists keep their bikes as upright as possible to
avoid scraping the bike. Bicyclists on the other hand lean their bikes into
the corner and keep the body upright. Both motorcyclists and bicyclists
extend the inside knee down to lower the center of gravity. To _pedal_
through the corners make like a motorcyclists and lean the bike up when the
inside pedal is down.
.l
.i 5
One of the most difficult things about descending in a group is passing. It
is not always possible to begin the descent ahead of anyone who may be
descending slower. If you find yourself behind someone taking it easy either
hang out a safe distance behind or pass very carefully. Passing on a descent
is always difficult and dangerous. By the same token, if you find yourself
ahead of someone who obviously wants to pass, let them by at the earliest
safe moment. It's never appropriate to impede someone's progress on a
training ride whether they are on a bicycle or in a car. Always make plenty
of room for anyone trying to pass no matter what the speed limit may be. Be
courteous and considerate and you'll be forever happy.
.l
.i 5
Remember that downhill racing is not what bicycle racing is all about. There
is no need to keep up with the Jones'. This is what causes many a crash.
Compete against yourself on the descents. Belgians are notoriously slow
descenders due to the consistently rainy conditions there. Yet some of the
best cyclists in the world train on those rainy roads. Don't get caught
pushing it on some wet or unfamiliar descent. Be prepared for a car or a
patch of dirt or oil in the middle of your path around _every_ blind corner
no matter how many times you've been on a particular road. Take it easy,
relax, exercise your powers of concentration and hammer again when you can
turn the pedals.
.l
.i 5
If you're interested in exploring this further the best book on bike
handling I've read is "Twist of The Wrist" by motorcycle racer Keith Code.
There is also data out there (Cycle Magazine) on eye exercises designed to
train depth perception adjustment, peripheral vision and concentration. If
you know where I can find this information please send it to:
.l
NCNCA District Coaching Office
Roger Marquis
782 San Luis Rd.
Berkeley, Ca 94707
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Descending II
.c Descending II
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
The Art of Descending  (an assessment)
.l
Descending on a bicycle requires a combination of skills that are more
commonly used in motorcycling. Only when descending does the bicycle have
the power and speed that the motorcycle encounters regularly, not to say
that criterium racing doesn't also challenge these skills. It requires a
combination of lean angle and braking while selecting an appropriate line
through curves. Unlike motorcycle tires, bicycle tires have little margin
and even a small slip on pavement is usually unrecoverable. Understanding
the forces involved and how to control them is more natural to some than
others. For some these skills may have atrophied from disuse at an early
age and need to be regenerated.
.l
How to Corner
.l
Cornering is the skill of anticipating the appropriate lean angle with
respect to the ground before you get to the apex of the turn. The angle is
what counts and it is limited by traction. This means you must have an eye
for traction. For most pavement this is about 45 degrees in the absence of
oil, water or other smooth and slick spots. So if the curve is banked 10
degrees, you could lean to 55 degrees from the vertical. In contrast, a
crowned road with no banking, where the surface falls off about 10 degrees,
would allow only 35 degrees (at the limit).
.l
Estimating the required lean angle for a curve is derived from the apparent
traction and what your speed will be in the apex of the turn at the current
rate of braking. Anticipating the lean angle is something humans, animals
and birds do regularly in self propulsion. When running you anticipate how
fast and sharply you can turn on the sidewalk, dirt track or lawn on which
you run. You estimate the lean for the conditions and you control your
speed to not exceed that angle. Although the consequences are more severe,
the same is true for the bicycle.
.l
These are reflexes that are normal to most people in youth but some have not
exercised them in such a long time that they don't trust their skills. A
single fall strongly reinforces this doubt. For this reason, it is best to
improve and regenerate these abilities gradually through practice.
.l
Braking
.l
Once the nuts and bolts of getting around a corner are in place the big
difference between being fast and being faster is another problem entirely.
First it must be understood that braking is a primary skill that is greatly
misunderstood. When traction is good, the front brake should be used almost
exclusively because, with it, the bike can slow down so rapidly that the
back wheel lifts off the road. When slowing down at this rate the rear
brake is obviously useless. Once you enter the curve, more and more
traction is used by the lean angle but braking is still used to trim speed.
This is done with both brakes because neither wheel has much additional
traction to give. It is good to practice hard front braking at a low and
safe speed to develop a feel for rear wheel lift-off.
.l
You may ask why you should be braking in the turn. If you do all your
braking before the turn you will be going too slowly too early. Because it
is practically impossible to anticipate the exact maximum speed for the apex
of the turn, you should anticipate braking in the turn. Fear of braking
usually comes from an incident caused by injudicious braking. How you use
the front and rear brake must be adapted to various conditions. When riding
straight ahead with good traction, you can safely allow substantial transfer
of weight from the rear to the front wheel allowing strong use of the front
brake. When traction is poor, deceleration and weight transfer is small, so
light braking with both wheels is appropriate. If traction is miserable,
you should use only the rear brake because, although a rear skid is
permissible, one in the front is not.
.l
Take for example a rider cornering on good traction, banked over at 45
degrees. With 1 G centrifugal acceleration, he can still apply the brakes
at 0.1 G. The increases in side force on the wheels is given by the square
root(1^2+0.1^2)=1.005. In other words, you can do appreciable braking while
at maximum cornering. The centrifugal acceleration is also reduced by the
square of the speed by which the lean angle rapidly reduces. Being aware of
this relationship should leave no doubt about why racers are often seen
pulling their brake levers in max speed turns.
.l
Suspension
.l
Beyond lean and braking, suspension helps immeasurably in descending. For
bicycles without built-in suspension, this is furnished by your legs. If
the road has fine ripples you needn't stand up but merely take the weight
off your pelvic bones. For rougher roads, you should rise high enough so
the saddle does not carry any weight. The reason for this is twofold. Your
vision will become blurred if you don't rise off the saddle, and traction
will be compromised by momentary overloads while skipping over bumps. The
ideal is to keep the tire on the ground at uniform load.
.l
Some riders believe that sticking out their knee or leaning their body away
from the bike, improves cornering. Sticking out a knee is the same thing
that riders without cleats do when they stick out a foot, it is a useless
but reassuring gesture that, on uneven roads, actually works against you.
Any body weight that is not centered on the bicycle (leaning the bike or
sticking out a knee) puts a side load on the bicycle, and side loads cause
steering motions if the road is not smooth. To verify this, ride down a
straight but rough road standing on one pedal with the bike slanted, and
note how the bike follows an erratic course. In contrast, if you ride
centered on the bike you can ride no-hands perfectly straight over rough
road. When you lean off the bike you cannot ride a smooth line over road
irregularities, especially in curves. For best control, stay centered over
your bike.
.l
Vision
.l
Where you look is critical to effective descending. Your central vision
involves mostly the cones in the retina of your eye. These are color
receptive and images generally are more time consuming to interpret than
information received by the rods in the peripheral vision. For this reason
you should focus on the pavement where your tire will track while looking
for obstacles and possible oncoming traffic in your peripheral vision that
is fast and good at detecting motion. If you look at the place where an
oncoming vehicle or obstacle might appear, its appearance will bring data
processing to a halt for a substantial time. You needn't identify the color
or model of car so leave it to the peripheral vision in high speed black and
white because processing speed is essential.
.l
The Line
.l
Picking the broadest curve through a corner should be obvious by the time
the preceding skills are mastered but the line is both a matter of safety
and road surface. Sometimes it is better to hit a bump or a "Bott's dot"
than to alter the line, especially at high speed. In that respect, your
tire should be large enough to absorb the entire height of a "Bott's dot"
without pinching the tube.
.l
Mental Speed
.l
Mental speed is demanded by all of these and, it is my experience, those who
are slow to grasp an idea, do not have good hand-eye coordination, or are
"accident prone", should be extra cautious in this. In contrast, being
quick does not guarantee success either. Above all, it is important to not
be daring but rather to ride with a margin that leaves a comfortable feeling
rather than one of high risk. At the same time, do not be blinded by the
age old presumption that everyone who rides faster than I is crazy. It is
one of the most common descriptions used by a slower observer. "He
descended like a madman!" means merely that the speaker was slower, nothing
more.
.l
Ride bike!
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Trackstands
.c Trackstands
.c (Rick Smith  [e-mail])
.l
.c How to trackstand on a road bike.
.l
.c With acknowledgments to my trackstanding mentor,
.c Neil Bankston.
.l
Practice, Practice, Practice, Practice, ....
.l
1. Wear tennis shoes.
.b
2. Find an open area, like a parking lot that has a slight grade to it.
.b
3. Put bike in a gear around a 42-18.
.b
4. Ride around out of the saddle in a counter-clockwise circle, about
10 feet in diameter.
.l
Label Notation for imaginary points on the circle:
.a
'A' is the lowest elevation point on the circle.
'B' is the 90 degrees counterclockwise from 'A' .
'C' is the highest elevation point on the circle.
'D' is the 90 degrees counterclockwise from 'C' .
.l
        C
      /   \
     D     B       Aerial View
      \   /
        A
.f
.l
5. Start slowing down, feeling the different sensation as the bike
transitions between going uphill (B) and downhill (D).
.b
6. Start trying to go real slowly through the A - B region of the circle.
This is the region you will use for trackstanding. Ride the rest of the
circle as you were in step 5.
.l
The trackstanding position (aerial view again):
.l
.a
               ---|   /
        ------| |----/
           |---     /
.f
.l
The pedal are in a 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock arrangement (in other words,
parallel to the ground). Your left foot is forward, your wheel is pointed
left. You are standing and shifting you weight to keep balance. The key to
it all is this:
.l
If you start to fall left, push on the left peddle to move the bike forward
a little and bring you back into balance.
.l
If you start to fall right, let up on the peddle and let the bike roll back
a little and bring you back into balance.
.l
7. Each time you roll through the A - B region, try to stop when the left
peddle is horizontal and forward. If you start to lose your balance, just
continue around the circle and try it again.
.l
8. Play with it. Try doing it in various regions in the circle, with
various foot position, and various amounts of turn in your steering. Try it
on different amounts of slope in the pavement. Try different gears. What
you are shooting for is the feel that's involved, and it comes with
practice.
.l
The why's of trackstanding:
.l
Why is road bike specified in the title?
.b
A true trackstand on a track bike is done differently. A track bike can be
peddled backwards, and doesn't need a hill to accomplish the rollback
affect. Track racing trackstands are done opposite of what is described.
They take place on the C - D region of the circle, with gravity used for the
roll forward, and back pedaling used for the rollback. This is so that a
racer gets the assist from gravity to get going again when the competition
makes a move.
.l
Why a gear around 42-18?
.b
This is a reasonable middle between too small, where you would reach the
bottom of the stroke on the roll forward, and too big, where you couldn't
generate the roll forward force needed.
.l
Why is the circle counter-clockwise?
.b
Because I assume you are living in an area where travel is done on the right
side of the road. When doing trackstands on the road, most likely it will
be at traffic lights. Roads are crowned - higher in the middle, lower on
the shoulders - and you use this crown as the uphill portion of the circle
(region A-B). If you are in a country where travel is done on the left side
of the road, please interpret the above aerial views as subterranial.
.l
Why is this done out of the saddle?
.b
It's easier!! It can be done in while seated, but you lose the freedom to
do weight adjustments with your hips.
.l
Why is the left crank forward?
.b
If your right crank was forward, you might bump the front wheel with your
toe. Remember the steering is turned so that the back of the front wheel is
on the right side of the bike. Some bikes have overlap of the region where
the wheel can go and your foot is. Even if your current bike doesn't have
overlap, it's better to learn the technique as described in case you are
demonstrating your new skill on a bike that does have overlap.
.l
Why the A - B region?
.b
It's the easiest. If you wait till the bike is around 'B', then you have to
keep more force on the peddle to hold it still. If you are around the 'A'
point, there may not be enough slope to allow the bike to roll back.
.l
Questions:
.l
What do I  do if I want to stop on a downhill?
.b
While there are techniques that can be employed to keep you in the pedals,
for safety sake I would suggest getting out of the pedals and putting your
foot down.
.l
Other exercises that help:
.l
Getting good balance. Work through this progression:
.b
1. Stand on your right foot. Hold this until it feels stable.
.b
2. Close your eyes. Hold this until it feels stable.
.b
3. Go up on your toes. Hold this until it feels stable.
.b
4. If you get to here, never mind, your balance is already wonderful,
else repeat with other foot.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Front Brake Usage
.c Front Brake Usage
.c (John Forester  [e-mail])
.l
.i 3
I have dealt for many years with the problem of explaining front brake use,
both to students and to courtrooms, and I have reached some conclusions,
both about the facts and about the superstitions.
.l
.i 3
The question was also asked about British law and front brakes. I'll answer
that first because it is easier. British law requires brakes on both wheels,
but it accepts that a fixed gear provides the required braking action on the
rear wheel. I think that the requirement was based on reliability, not on
deceleration. That is, if the front brake fails, the fixed-gear cyclist can
still come to a stop.
.l
.i 3
In my house (in California) we have three track-racing bikes converted to
road use by adding brakes. Two have only front brakes while the third has
two brakes. We have had no trouble at all, and we ride them over mild hills.
The front-brake-only system won't meet the normal U.S. state traffic law
requirement of being able to skid one wheel, because that was written for
coaster-braked bikes, but it actually provides twice the deceleration of a
rear-wheel-braked bike and nobody, so far as I know, has ever been
prosecuted for using such a setup.
.l
.i 3
The superstitions about front brake use are numerous. The most prevalent
appears to be that using the front brake without using the rear brake, or
failing to start using the rear brake before using the front brake, will
flip the cyclist. The other side of that superstition is that using the rear
brake will prevent flipping the bicycle, regardless of how hard the front
brake is applied.
.l
.i 3
The truth is that regardless of how hard the rear brake is applied, or
whether it is applied at all, the sole determinant (aside from matters such
as bicycle geometry, weight and weight distribution of cyclist and load,
that can't practically be changed while moving) of whether the bicycle will
be flipped is the strength of application of the front brake. As the
deceleration to produce flip is approached, the weight on the rear wheel
decreases to zero, so that the rear wheel cannot produce any deceleration;
with no application of the rear brake it rolls freely, with any application
at all it skids at a force approaching zero. With typical bicycle geometry,
a brake application to attempt to produce a deceleration greater than 0.67 g
will flip the bicycle. (Those who advocate the cyclist moving his butt off
and behind the saddle to change the weight distribution achieve a very small
increase in this.)
.l
.i 3
A typical story is that of a doctor who, now living in the higher-priced
hilly suburbs, purchased a new bicycle after having cycled to med school on
the flats for years. His first ride was from the bike shop over some minor
hills and then up the 15% grade to his house. His second ride was down that
15% grade. Unfortunately, the rear brake was adjusted so that it produced,
with the lever to the handlebar, a 0.15 g deceleration. The braking system
would meet the federal requirements of 0.5 g deceleration with less than 40
pounds grip on the levers, because the front brake has to do the majority of
the work and at 0.5 g there is insufficient weight on the rear wheel to
allow much more rear brake force than would produce 0.1 g deceleration. (The
U.S. regulation allows bicycles with no gear higher than 60 inches to have
only a rear-wheel brake that provides only 0.27 g deceleration.) I don't say
that the rear brake adjustment of the bicycle in the accident was correct,
because if the front brake fails then the rear brake alone should be able to
skid the rear wheel, which occurs at about 0.3 g deceleration. The doctor
starts down the hill, coasting to develop speed and then discovering that he
can't slow down to a stop using the rear brake alone. That is because the
maximum deceleration produced by the rear brake equalled, almost exactly,
the slope of the hill. He rolls down at constant speed with the rear brake
lever to the handlebar and the front brake not in use at all. He is afraid
to apply the front brake because he fears that this will flip him, but he is
coming closer and closer to a curve, after which is a stop sign. At the
curve he panics and applies the front brake hard, generating a force greater
than 0.67 g deceleration and therefore flipping himself. Had he applied the
front brake with only a force to produce 0.1 g deceleration, even 100 feet
before the curve, he would have been safe, but in his panic he caused
precisely the type of accident that he feared. He thought that he had a good
case, sued everybody, and lost. This is the type of superstition that
interferes with the cycling of many people.
.l
.i 3
My standard instruction for people who fear using the front brake is the
same instruction for teaching any person to brake properly. Tell them to
apply both brakes simultaneously, but with the front brake 3 times harder
than the rear brake. Start by accelerating to road speed and stopping with a
gentle application. Then do it again with a harder application, but keeping
the same 3 to 1 ratio. Then again, harder still, until they feel the rear
wheel start to skid. When the rear wheel skids with 1/4 of the total braking
force applied to it, that shows that the weight distribution has now
progressed as far to the front wheel as the average cyclist should go. By
repeated practice they learn how hard this is, and attain confidence in
their ability to stop as rapidly as is reasonable without any significant
risk.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Slope Wind
.c Slope Wind, the Invisible Enemy
.c (Jobst Brandt  [e-mail])
.l
Wind as well as relative wind caused by moving through still air demands
most of a bicyclists effort on level ground. Most riders recognize when
they are subjected to wind because it comes in gusts and these gusts can
be distinguished from the more uniform wind caused by moving through
still air. That's the catch. At the break of dawn there is often no wind
as such but cool air near the ground, being colder and more dense than
higher air slides downslope as a laminar layer that has no turbulent
gusts.
.l
Wind in mountain valleys generally blows uphill during the heat of the
day and therefore pilots of light aircraft are warned to take off uphill
against the morning slope wind. Slope wind, although detectable, is not
readily noticed when standing or walking because it has negligible
effect and does not come in apparent gusts. The bicyclist, in contrast,
is hindered by it but cannot detect it because there is always wind
while riding.
.l
Slope wind, as such, can be up to 10 mph before it starts to take on the
characteristics that we expect of wind. It is doubly deceptive when it
comes from behind because it gives an inflated speed that can be
mistakenly attributed to great fitness that suddenly vanishes when
changing course. If you live near aspen or poplars that tend to fan
their leaves in any breeze, you will not be fooled.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Reflective Tape
.c Reflective Tape
.c (Jobst Brandt [e-mail])
.l
Reflective tape is available in most better bike shops in various forms,
most of which is pre-cut to some preferred shape and designed for
application to some specific part of the bike or apparel. The most
effective use of such tape is on moving parts such as pedals, heel of
the shoe or on a place that is generally overlooked, the inside of the
rim.
.l
First, it is appropriate to note that car headlights generally produce
white light and a white or, in fact, colorless reflector returns more of
this light to its source than ones with color filters or selective
reflection. Red, for instance, is not nearly as effective as white.
.l
Placing reflective tape on the inside of the rims between the spokes is
a highly effective location for night riding because it is visible
equally to the front and rear while attracting attention through its
motion. It is most effective when applied to less than half the rim in a
solid block. Five inter-spoke sections does a good job. One can argue
that it isn't visible from the side (if the rim is not an aero cross
section) but the major hazard is from the front and rear.
.l
Be seen on a bike! It's good for your health.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Nutrision Primer
.c Nutrition
.c (Bruce Hildenbrand [e-mail])
.l
Oh well, I have been promising to do this for a while and given the
present discussions on nutrition, it is about the right time. This
article was written in 1980 for Bicycling Magazine. It has been
reprinted in over 30 publications, been the basis for a chapter in a
book and cited numerous other times. I guess somebody besides me thinks
its OK. If you disagree with any points, that's fine, I just don't want
to see people take exception based on their own personal experiences
because everyone is different and psychological factors play a big
role(much bigger than you would think) on how one perceives his/her own
nutritional requirements. Remember that good nutrition is a LONG TERM
process that is not really affected by short term events(drinking poison
would be an exception). If it works for you then do it!!! Don't
preach!!!!
.l 2
.c BASIC NUTRITION PRIMER
.l
Nutrition in athletics is a very controversial topic. However, for an
athlete to have confidence that his/her diet is beneficial he/she must
understand the role each food component plays in the body's overall
makeup. Conversely, it is important to identify and understand the
nutritional demands on the physiological processes of the body that
occur as a result of racing and training so that these needs can be
satisfied in the athlete's diet.
.l
For the above reasons, a basic nutrition primer should help the athlete
determine the right ingredients of his/her diet which fit training and
racing schedules and existing eating habits. The body requires three
basic components from foods: 1) water; 2) energy; and 3)nutrients.
.l
WATER
.l
Water is essential for life and without a doubt the most important
component in our diet. Proper hydrations not only allows the body to
maintain structural and biochemical integrity, but it also prevents
overheating, through sensible heat loss(perspiration). Many cyclists
have experienced the affects of acute fluid deficiency on a hot day,
better known as heat exhaustion. Dehydration can be a long term problem,
especially at altitude, but this does not seem to be a widespread
problem among cyclists and is only mentioned here as a reminder(but an
important one).
.l
ENERGY
.l
Energy is required for metabolic processes, growth and to support
physical activity. The Food and Nutrition Board of the National Academy
of Sciences has procrastinated in establishing a Recommended Daily
Allowance(RDA) for energy the reasoning being that such a daily
requirement could lead to overeating. A moderately active 70kg(155lb)
man burns about 2700 kcal/day and a moderately active 58kg(128lb) woman
burns about 2500 kcal/day.
.l
It is estimated that cyclists burn 8-10 kcal/min or about 500-600
kcal/hr while riding(this is obviously dependent on the level of
exertion). Thus a three hour training ride can add up to 1800 kcals(the
public knows these as calories) to the daily energy demand of the
cyclist. Nutritional studies indicate that there is no significant
increase in the vitamin requirement of the athlete as a result of this
energy expenditure.
.l
In order to meet this extra demand, the cyclist must increase his/her
intake of food. This may come before, during or after a ride but most
likely it will be a combination of all of the above. If for some reason
extra nutrients are required because of this extra energy demand, they
will most likely be replenished through the increased food intake.
Carbohydrates and fats are the body's energy sources and will be
discussed shortly.
.l
NUTRIENTS
.l
This is a broad term and refers to vitamins, minerals, proteins,
carbohydrates, fats, fiber and a host of other substances. The body is a
very complex product of evolution. It can manufacture many of the
resources it needs to survive. However, vitamins, minerals and essential
amino acids(the building blocks of proteins) and fatty acids cannot be
manufactured, hence they must be supplied in our food to support proper
health.
.l
Vitamins and Minerals
.l
No explanation needed here except that there are established RDA's for
most vitamins and minerals and that a well balanced diet, especially
when supplemented by a daily multivitamin and mineral tablet should meet
all the requirements of the cyclist.
.l
Proper electrolyte replacement(sodium and potassium salts) should be
emphasized, especially during and after long, hot rides. Commercially
available preparations such as Exceed, Body Fuel and Isostar help
replenish electrolytes lost while riding.
.l
Proteins
.l
Food proteins are necessary for the synthesis of the body's
skeletal(muscle, skin, etc.) and biochemical(enzymes, hormones,
etc.)proteins. Contrary to popular belief, proteins are not a good
source of energy in fact they produce many toxic substances when they
are converted to the simple sugars needed for the body's energy demand.
.l
Americans traditionally eat enough proteins to satisfy their body's
requirement. All indications are that increased levels of exercise do
not cause a significant increase in the body's daily protein requirement
which has been estimated to be 0.8gm protein/kg body weight.
.l
Carbohydrates
.l
Carbohydrates are divided into two groups, simple and complex, and serve
as one of the body's two main sources of energy.
.l
Simple carbohydrates are better known as sugars, examples being
fructose, glucose(also called dextrose), sucrose(table sugar) and
lactose(milk sugar).
.l
The complex carbohydrates include starches and pectins which are
multi-linked chains of glucose. Breads and pastas are rich sources of
complex carbohydrates.
.l
The brain requires glucose for proper functioning which necessitates a
carbohydrate source. The simple sugars are quite easily broken down to
help satisfy energy and brain demands and for this reason they are an
ideal food during racing and training. The complex sugars require a
substantially longer time for breakdown into their glucose sub units and
are more suited before and after riding to help meet the body's energy
requirements.
.l
Fats
.l
Fats represent the body's other major energy source. Fats are twice as
dense in calories as carbohydrates(9 kcal/gm vs 4 kcal/gm) but they are
more slowly retrieved from their storage units(triglycerides) than
carbohydrates(glycogen). Recent studies indicate that caffeine may help
speed up the retrieval of fats which would be of benefit on long rides.
.l
Fats are either saturated or unsaturated and most nutritional experts
agree that unsaturated, plant-based varieties are healthier. Animal fats
are saturated(and may contain cholesterol), while plant based fats such
as corn and soybean oils are unsaturated. Unsaturated fats are necessary
to supply essential fatty acids and should be included in the diet to
represent about 25% of the total caloric intake. Most of this amount we
don't really realize we ingest, so it is not necessary to heap on the
margarine as a balanced diet provides adequate amounts.
.l
WHAT THE BODY NEEDS
.l
Now that we have somewhat of an understanding of the role each food
component plays in the body's processes let's relate the nutritional
demands that occur during cycling in an attempt to develop an adequate
diet. Basically our bodies need to function in three separate areas
which require somewhat different nutritional considerations. These areas
are: 1) building; 2) recovery; and 3) performance.
.l
Building
.l
Building refers to increasing the body's ability to perform
physiological processes, one example being the gearing up of enzyme
systems necessary for protein synthesis, which results in an increase in
muscle mass, oxygen transport, etc. These systems require amino acids,
the building blocks of proteins. Hence, it is important to eat a diet
that contains quality proteins (expressed as a balance of the essential
amino acid sub units present)fish, red meat, milk and eggs being
excellent sources.
.l
As always, the RDA's for vitamins and minerals must also be met but, as
with the protein requirement, they are satisfied in a well balanced
diet.
.l
Recovery
.l
This phase may overlap the building process and the nutritional
requirements are complimentary. Training and racing depletes the body of
its energy reserves as well as loss of electrolytes through sweat.
Replacing the energy reserves is accomplished through an increased
intake of complex carbohydrates (60-70% of total calories) and to a
lesser extent fat(25%). Replenishing lost electrolytes is easily
accomplished through the use of the commercial preparations already
mentioned.
.l
Performance
.l
Because the performance phase (which includes both training rides and
racing) spans at most 5-7 hours whereas the building and recovery phases
are ongoing processes, its requirements are totally different from the
other two. Good nutrition is a long term proposition meaning the effects
of a vitamin or mineral deficiency take weeks to manifest themselves.
This is evidenced by the fact that it took many months for scurvy to
show in sailors on a vitamin C deficient diet. What this means is that
during the performance phase, the primary concern is energy replacement
(fighting off the dreaded "bonk") while the vitamin and mineral demands
can be overlooked.
.l
Simple sugars such a sucrose, glucose and fructose are the quickest
sources of energy and in moderate quantities of about 100gm/hr (too much
can delay fluid absorption in the stomach) are helpful in providing fuel
for the body and the brain. Proteins and fats are not recommended
because of their slow and energy intensive digestion mechanism.
.l
Short, one day rides or races of up to one hour in length usually
require no special nutritional considerations provided the body's short
term energy stores (glycogen) are not depleted which may be the case
during multi-day events.
.l
Because psychological as well as physiological factors determine
performance most cyclists tend to eat and drink whatever makes them feel
"good" during a ride. This is all right as long as energy considerations
are being met and the stomach is not overloaded trying to digest any
fatty or protein containing foods. If the vitamin and mineral
requirements are being satisfied during the building and recovery phases
no additional intake during the performance phase is necessary.
.l 2
IMPLICATIONS
.l
Basically, what all this means is that good nutrition for the cyclist is
not hard to come by once we understand our body's nutrient and energy
requirements. If a balanced diet meets the RDA's for protein, vitamins
and minerals as well as carbohydrate and fat intake for energy then
everything should be OK nutritionally. It should be remembered that the
problems associated with nutrient deficiencies take a long time to
occur. Because of this it is not necessary to eat "right" at every meal
which explains why weekend racing junkets can be quite successful on a
diet of tortilla chips and soft drinks. However, bear in mind that over
time, the body's nutritional demands must be satisfied. To play it safe
many cyclists take a daily multivitamin and mineral supplement tablet
which has no adverse affects and something I personally recommend. Mega
vitamin doses(levels five times or more of the RDA) have not been proven
to be beneficial and may cause some toxicity problems.
.l
GREY NUTRITION
.l
"Good" nutrition is not black and white. As we have seen, the body's
requirements are different depending on the phase it is in. While the
building and recovery phases occur somewhat simultaneously the
performance phase stands by itself. For this reason, some foods are
beneficial during one phase but not during another. A good example is
the much maligned twinkie. In the performance phase it is a very quick
source of energy and quite helpful. However, during the building phase
it is not necessary and could be converted to unwanted fat stores. To
complicate matters, the twinkie may help replenish energy stores during
the recovery phase however, complex carbohydrates are probably more
beneficial. So, "one man's meat may be another man's poison."
.l
NUTRIENT DENSITY
.l
This term refers to the quantity of nutrients in a food for its
accompanying caloric(energy) value. A twinkie contains much energy but
few vitamins and minerals so has a low nutrient density. Liver, on the
other hand, has a moderate amount of calories but is rich in vitamins
and minerals and is considered a high nutrient density food.
.l
Basically, one must meet his/her nutrient requirements within the
constraints of his/her energy demands. Persons with a low daily activity
level have a low energy demand and in order to maintain their body
weight must eat high nutrient density foods. As already mentioned, a
cyclist has an increased energy demand but no significant increase in
nutrient requirements. Because of this he/she can eat foods with a lower
nutrient density than the average person. This means that a cyclist can
be less choosy about the foods that are eaten provided he/she realizes
his/her specific nutrient and energy requirements that must be met.
.l
BALANCED DIET
.l
Now, the definition of that nebulous phrase, "a balanced diet". Taking
into consideration all of the above, a diet emphasizing fruits and
vegetables (fresh if possible), whole grain breads, pasta, cereals,
milk, eggs, fish and red meat(if so desired) will satisfy long term
nutritional demands. These foods need to be combined in such a way that
during the building and recovery phase, about 60-70% of the total
calories are coming from carbohydrate sources, 25% from fats and the
remainder(about 15%) from proteins.
.l
It is not necessary to get 100% of the RDA for all vitamins and minerals
at every meal. It may be helpful to determine which nutritional
requirements you wish to satisfy at each meal. Personally, I use
breakfast to satisfy part of my energy requirement by eating toast and
cereal. During lunch I meet some of the energy, protein and to a lesser
extent vitamin and mineral requirements with such foods as yogurt,
fruit, and peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. Dinner is a big meal
satisfying energy, protein, vitamin and mineral requirements with
salads, vegetables, pasta, meat and milk. Between meal snacking is
useful to help meet the body's energy requirement.
.l
CONCLUSION
.l
All this jiberish may not seem to be telling you anything you couldn't
figure out for yourself. The point is that "good" nutrition is not hard
to achieve once one understands the reasons behind his/her dietary
habits. Such habits can easily be modified to accommodate the
nutritional demands of cycling without placing any strict demands on
one's lifestyle.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Nuclear Free Enegry Bar
.c Nuclear Free Energy Bar Recipe
.c (Phil Etheridge [e-mail])
.l
.c Nuclear Free Energy Bars
.c ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
.l
Comments and suggestions welcome.
.l
They seem to work well for me. I eat bananas as well, in about equal
quanities to the Nuclear Free Energy Bars. I usually have two drink
bottles, one with water to wash down the food, the other with a carbo
drink.
.l
You will maybe note that there are no dairy products in my recipe --
that's because I'm allergic to them. You could easily replace the soy
milk powder with the cow equivalent, but then you'd definitely have to
include some maltodextrin (my soy drink already has some in it). I plan
to replace about half the honey with maltodextrin when I find a local
source. If you prefer cocoa to carob, you can easily substitute.
.l
.a
C = 250 ml cup, T = 15 ml tablespoon
.l
1 C Oat Bran
1/2 C Toasted Sunflower and/or Sesame seeds, ground (I use a food processor)
1/2 C Soy Milk Powder (the stuff I get has 37% maltodextrin, ~20% dextrose*)
1/2 C Raisins
2T Carob Powder
.l
Mix well, then add to
.l
1/2 C Brown Rice, Cooked and Minced (Using a food processor again)
1/2 C Peanut Butter (more or less, depending on consistency)
1/2 C Honey (I use clear, runny stuff, you may need to warm if it's thicker
        and/or add a little water)
.f
.l
Stir and knead (I knead in more Oat Bran or Rolled Oats) until
thoroughly mixed. A cake mixer works well for this. The bars can be
reasonably soft, as a night in the fridge helps to bind it all together.
Roll or press out about 1cm thick and cut. Makes about 16, the size I
like them (approx 1cm x 1.5cm x 6cm).
.l
* Can't remember exact name, dextrose something)
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Powerbars
.c Powerbars
.c (John McClintic [e-mail])
.l
Have you ever watched a hummingbird? Think about it! Hummingbirds eat
constantly to survive. We lumpish earthbound creatures are in no
position to imitate this. Simply, if we overeat we get fat.
.l
There are exceptions: those who exercise very strenuously can utilize -
indeed, actually need - large amounts of carbohydrates.
.l
For example, Marathon runners "load" carbohydrates by stuffing
themselves with pasta before a race. On the flip side Long-distance
cyclists maintain their energy level by "power snacking".
.l
With reward to the cyclist and their need for "power snacking" I submit
the following "power bar" recipe which was originated by a fellow named
Bill Paterson. Bill is from Portland Oregon.
.l
The odd ingredient in the bar, paraffin, is widely used in chocolate
manufacture to improve smoothness and flowability, raise the melting
point, and retard deterioration of texture and flavor. Butter can be
used instead, but a butter-chocolate mixture doesn't cover as thinly or
smoothly.
.l
.a
POWER BARS
----------
.l
1       cup regular rolled oats
1/2     cup sesame seed
1 1/2   cups dried apricots, finely chopped
1 1/2   cups raisins
1       cup shredded unsweetened dry coconut
1       cup blanched almonds, chopped
1/2     cup nonfat dry milk
1/2     cup toasted wheat germ
2       teaspoons butter or margarine
1       cup light corn syrup
3/4     cup sugar
1 1/4   cups chunk-style peanut butter
1       teaspoon orange extract
2       teaspoons grated orange peel
1       package (12 oz.) or 2 cups semisweet chocolate
        baking chips
4       ounces paraffin or 3/4 cup (3/4 lb.) butter or
        margarine
.f
.l
Spread oats in a 10- by 15-inch baking pan. Bake in a 300 degree oven until
oats are toasted, about 25 minutes. Stir frequently to prevent scorching.
.l
Meanwhile, place sesame seed in a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium
heat. Shake often or stir until seeds are golden, about 7 minutes.
.l
Pour into a large bowl. Add apricots, raisins, coconut, almonds, dry milk,
and wheat germ; mix well. Mix hot oats into dried fruit mixture.
.l
Butter the hot backing pan; set aside.
.l
In the frying pan, combine corn syrup and sugar; bring to a rolling boil
over medium high heat and quickly stir in the peanut butter, orange extract,
and orange peel.
.l
At once, pour over the oatmeal mixture and mix well. Quickly spread in
buttered pan an press into an even layer. Then cover and chill until firm,
at least 4 hours or until next day.
.l
Cut into bars about 1 1/4 by 2 1/2 inches.
.l
Combine chocolate chips and paraffin in to top of a double boiler. Place
over simmering water until melted; stir often. Turn heat to low.
.l
Using tongs, dip 1 bar at a time into chocolate, hold over pan until it
stops dripping (with paraffin, the coating firms very quickly), then place
on wire racks set above waxed paper.
.l
When firm and cool (bars with butter in the chocolate coating may need to be
chilled), serve bars, or wrap individually in foil. Store in the
refrigerator up to 4 weeks; freeze to store longer. Makes about 4 dozen
bars, about 1 ounce each.
.l
Per piece: 188 cal.; 4.4 g protein; 29 g carbo.; 9.8 g fat;
.i 11
0.6 mg chol.; 40 mg sodium.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Calories burned by cycling
.c Calories burned by cycling
.c (Jeff Patterson [e-mail])
.l
The following table appears in the '92 Schwinn ATB catalog which references
Bicycling, May 1989:
.l
.a
Speed
(mph)    12   14   15   16   17   18   19
Rider
Weight         Calories/Hr
110     293  348  404  448  509  586  662
120     315  375  437  484  550  634  718
130     338  402  469  521  592  683  773
140     360  430  502  557  633  731  828
150     383  457  534  593  675  779  883
160     405  485  567  629  717  828  938
170     427  512  599  666  758  876  993
180     450  540  632  702  800  925 1048
190     472  567  664  738  841  973 1104
200     495  595  697  774  883 1021 1159
.f
.l
(flat terrain, no wind, upright position)
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Road Rach Cures
.c Road Rash Cures
.c (E Shekita [e-mail])
.l
[Ed note: This is a condensation of a summary of cures for road rash
that Gene posted.]
.l
The July 1990 issue of Bicycle Guide has a decent article on road rash.
Several experienced trainers/doctors are quoted. They generally
recommended:
.l
- cleaning the wound ASAP using an anti-bacterial soap such as Betadine.
Showering is recommended, as running water will help flush out dirt and
grit. If you can't get to a shower right away, at the very least dab the
wound with an anti-bacteria solution and cover the wound with a
non-stick telfa pad coated with bactrin or neosporin to prevent
infection and scabbing. The wound can then be showered clean when you
get home. It often helps to put an ice bag on the wound after it has
been covered to reduce swelling.
.l
- after the wound has been showered clean, cover the wound with either
1) a non-stick telfa pad coated with bactrin or neosporin, or 2) one of
the Second Skin type products that are available. If you go the telfa
pad route, daily dressing changes will be required until a thin layer of
new skin has grown over the wound. If you go the Second Skin route,
follow the directions on the package.
.l
The general consensus was that scabbing should be prevented and that the
 Second Skin type products were the most convenient -- less dressing
changes and they hold up in a shower. (Silvadene was not mentioned,
probably because it requires a prescription.)
.l
It was pointed out that if one of the above treatments is followed, then
you don't have to go crazy scrubbing out the last piece of grit or dirt
in the wound, as some people believe. This is because most of the grit
will "float" out of the wound on its own when a moist dressing is used.
.l
There are now products that go by the names Bioclusive, Tegaderm,
DuoDerm, Op-Site, Vigilon, Spenco 2nd Skin, and others, that are like
miracle skin. This stuff can be expensive ($5 for 8 3x4 sheets), but
does not need to be changed. They are made of a 96% water substance
called hydrogel wrapped in thin porous plastic. Two non-porous plastic
sheets cover the hydrogel; One sheet is removed so that the hydrogel
contacts the wound and the other non-porous sheet protects the wound.
.l
These products are a clear, second skin that goes over the cleaned
(ouch!) wound. They breathe, are quite resistant to showering, and
wounds heal in around 1 week. If it means anything, the Olympic Training
Center uses this stuff. You never get a scab with this, so you can be
out riding the same day, if you aren't too sore.
.l
It is important when using this treatment, to thoroughly clean the
wound, and put the bandage on right away. It can be obtained at most
pharmacies. Another possible source is Spenco second skin, which is
sometimes carried by running stores and outdoor/cycling/ stores. If this
doesn't help, you might try a surgical supply or medical supply place.
They aren't as oriented toward retail, but may carry larger sizes than
is commonly available. Also, you might check with a doctor, or
university athletic department people.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Knee problems
.c Knee problems
.c (Roger Marquis [e-mail])
.l
As the weather becomes more conducive to riding and the  racing season
gets going and average weekly training distances  start to climb a few
of us will have some trouble with our  knees. Usually knee problem are
caused by one of four things:
.l
.i 5
1) Riding too hard, too soon. Don't get impatient. It's going to be a
long season and there's plenty of time to get in the proper progression
of efforts. Successful cycling is a matter of listening to your body.
When you see riders burning out, hurting themselves and just not
progressing past a certain point you can be fairly certain that it is
because they are not paying enough attention to what their body is
telling them.
.l
.i 5
2) Too many miles. Your body is not a machine. It cannot be expected to
take whatever miles you feel compelled to ride without time to grow and
adapt. If you keep this in mind whenever you feel like increasing your
average weekly mileage by more than forty miles over two or three weeks
you should have no problems.
.l
.i 5
3) Low, low rpms (also excess crank length). Save those big ring climbs
and big gear sprints for later in the season. This is the time of year
to develop fast twitch muscle fibers. That means spin, spin, spin. You
don't have to spin all the time but the effort put into small gear
sprints and high rpm climbing now will pay off later in the season.
.l
.i 5
4) Improper position on the bike. Unfortunately most bicycle salespeople
in this country have no idea how to properly set saddle height. The most
common error being to set it too low. This is very conducive to
developing knee problems because of the excessive bend at the knee when
the pedal is at, and just past, top dead center.
.l
Make sure your seat and cleats are adjusted properly by following the
adjustment procedures found elsewhere.
.l
If after all this you're still having knee problems:
.l
.i 5
1) Check for leg length differences both below and above the knee. If
the difference is between 2 and 8 millimeters you can correct it by
putting spacers under one cleat. If one leg is shorter by more than a
centimeter or so you might experiment with a shorter crank arm on the
short leg side.
.l
.i 5
2) Use shorter cranks. For some riders this helps keep pedal speed up
and knee stress down. I'm 6 ft. 1/2 in. and I ride 170mm cranks for most
of the season.
.l
.i 5
3) Try the Fit-Kit R.A.D. cleat alignment device and/or a rotating type
cleat/pedal like the Time pedal.
.l
.i 5
4) Cut way back on mileage and intensity (This is a last resort for
obvious reasons). Sometimes a prolonged rest is the only way to regain
full functionality and is usually required only if you try to "train
through" any pain.
.E
.!---------------------------------------------------------------------------
.T Misc.Cycling Psychology
.c Cycling Psychology
.c (Roger Marquis  [e-mail])
.l
.i 5
Motivation, the last frontier. With enough of it any ordinary person can
become a world class athlete. Without it this same person could end up
begging for change on Telegraph ave. Even a tremendously talented rider
will go nowhere without motivation. How do some riders always seem to be
so motivated? What are the sources of their motivation? This has been a
central theme of sports psychology since its beginning when Triplett
studied the effects of audience and competition on performance in the
late nineteenth century. Though a great deal has been written on
motivation since Triplett it is an individual construct. As an athlete
you need to identify what motivates you and cultivate the sources of
your motivation.
.l
.i 5
* One of the best sources of motivation is setting goals. Be specific,
put it down on paper. Define your goals clearly and make them
attainable. Short term goals are more important than long term goals and
should be even more precisely defined Set long term goals such as
training at least five days a week, placing in specific races,
upgrading, etc.. Set short term goals for things like going on a good
ride this afternoon, doing five sprints, bettering your time up Wildcat,
etc.. DO NOT STRESS WINNING when defining your goals. Instead stress
enjoying the ride and doing your best in every ride and race.
.l
.i 5
* Do it together. Going to races with friends, training together and
racing as a team is great for motivation. This is what clubs should be
all about.
.l
.i 5
* Do it frequently. Regularity makes difficult tasks easy. If you make
it a point to ride every day, or at least five times a week (to be
competitive), making the daily ride will become automatic.
.l
.i 5
* Cycling books and videos are tremendously motivating as are new bike
parts, new clothing, new roads, nice weather, losing weight, seeing
friends, getting out of the city and breathing fresh air, riding hard
and feeling good and especially that great feeling of accomplishment and
relaxation at the end of every ride that makes life beautiful.
.l
.c ==============
.l
.i 5
While high levels of arousal (motivational energy) are generally better
for shorter rides and track races, be careful not to get over-aroused
before longer, harder races. Stay relaxed and conserve precious energy
for that crosswind section or sprint where you'll need all the strength
you've got. Learn how psyched you need to be to do your best and be
aware of when you are over or under aroused.
.l
.i 5
It's not uncommon, especially for novices, to be so nervous before the
start that they are already fatigued on the line. This much stress is
dangerous and should be recognized and controlled immediately. If you
get too stressed before a race try counting to ten, breathing deeply,
stretching, talking to friends, finding a quiet place to warm-up, or a
crowded place to warm-up, depending on your inclination, and remember
that the stress will disappearas soon as the race starts. Racing takes
too much concentration to spare any for worrying.
.l
.i 5
Every athlete needs to be adept in stress management. One new technique
used to reduce competitive anxiety is imagery. Mental practice has been
credited with almost miraculous improvements in fine motor skills
(archery, tennis) but its greatest value in gross motor sports is in
stress reduction. Actually winning a race can also help put an end to
excessive competitive anxiety. But if you have never won nervousness may
be keeping you from winning. If you find yourself getting overstressed
whenever you think about winning, or even riding, a race try this; Find
a quiet, relaxing place to sit and think about racing. Second; Picture
yourself driving to the race in a very relaxed and poised state of mind.
Continue visualizing the day progressing into the race and going well
until you detect some tension THEN STOP. Do not let yourself get excited
at all. End the visualization session and try it again the next day.
Continue this DAILY until you can picture yourself racing and winning
without any stress. If this seems like a lot of work evaluate just how
much you want to win a bike race.
.l
.i 5
Visualization is not meant to replace on the bike training but can make
that training pay off in a big way. Eastern European research has found
that athletes improve most quickly if visual training comprises fifty to
seventy-five percent of the total time spent training! Like any training
imagery will only pay off if you do it regularly and frequently. My
French club coach always used to tell us: believe it and it will become
true.
.l
(C) 1989, Roger Marquis (see also Velo-News, 3-91)
.E
.!== e n d   o f   f i l e ==================================================