From: "Hauck, Michael MG" <Hauck.Michael.MG@bhp.com.au>
Subject: Subject: (klr650) Temp Gauge
I ride in 100 degree + weather, but in Arizona the humidity is very low. My temp gauge NEVER seems to go past the middle before the fan kicks in.
1. Have you checked the % coolant to % water? Too much coolant vs. water will make it run hot. Try diluting the coolant a bit, &/or buy a tester from the local H/W store.
2. What's the humidity like? I understand it's been really humid lately and this will make everything run hotter from what I remember with my car's in the Northeast.
EOM
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The mechanic/owner who did my valve job/tune-up on Saturday says the problem with Progressive's is that when they compress on braking, if you hit a bump you'll have no shock absorption left. He says I would be better off with just a heavier-duty spring, but feels that constant steady compression is better than progressive. He's a "racing guy" and seems to know his stuff...Comments?
PS: My valve job (all valves too tight) + carb adjust (apparently a hose clamp was missing and I was running too much air) + rear tire replacement cost me 5 hours of labour ($280) and $60 in misc parts/shims/oil/filter (excluding my new $90 Metzeler MCE Karoo rear tire). I was around for most of it as I wanted to watch the valve adjustment (I thought it would only take ~1-2 hours). Isn't this too long/expensive? Next time I'll try the local Honda dealer, but I should be OK for 6000 miles now. It does run much better now...
EOM
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 14:37:21 EDT
From: JIM71234@aol.com
Subject: (klr650) Rear master cylinder protection
Just visited local Kawasaki dealer 2 hours ago. He had a KDX200 on floor
that had a rear master cylinder protector that is stock on that bike. Bought
it for my A-13 and drilled 2 - 12mm holes and installed the bracket with
existing Allen head cap screws. Looks like factory accessory. Cost was
$19.95 + 6% for state of FL. Sorry, but I threw away the bag thus losing
part #. Will get better at remembering things, I hope. Jim-A13-Cocoa
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What year is your KLR650 and how many miles? I'm just curious to see how many KLR650s actually need a valve adjustment at 500 miles. My dealer didn't do the valve check; said I didn't need it until 3000 miles which I know is wrong. My guess is that these service centers have done many valve checks at 500 miles only to find that none or a very small number actually need an adjustement so they probebly think they're waisting time by doing the check at 500 miles. Again, I will do the valve check myself, but I'm interested in
getting a feel for how many actually needed an adjustment at 500 miles. What I'm really saying is that I'm not ready to do it yet and my bike has 800 miles on it and I won't get around to it until about 1000 miles. Hope I'm not taking a big risk.
- -Brian Shepard
Philadelphia PA
A13
"Hauck, Michael MG" wrote:
> The mechanic/owner who did my valve job/tune-up on Saturday says the problem with Progressive's is that when they compress on braking, if you hit a bump you'll have no shock absorption left. He says I would be better off with just a heavier-duty spring, but feels that constant steady compression is better than progressive. He's a "racing guy" and seems to know his stuff...Comments?
>
> PS: My valve job (all valves too tight) + carb adjust (apparently a hose clamp was missing and I was running too much air) + rear tire replacement cost me 5 hours of labour ($280) and $60 in misc parts/shims/oil/filter (excluding my new $90 Metzeler MCE Karoo rear tire). I was around for most of it as I wanted to watch the valve adjustment (I thought it would only take ~1-2 hours). Isn't this too long/expensive? Next time I'll try the local Honda dealer, but I should be OK for 6000 miles now. It does run much better now...
>
> EOM
>
> NOTICE - This message contains information intended only for the use of the addressee named above. It may also be confidential and/or privileged. If you are not the intended recipient of this message you are hereby notified that you must not disseminate, copy or take any action in reliance on it. If you have received this message in error please notify The Broken Hill Proprietary Company Limited immediately via mailto:postmaster@bhp.com.au.
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 15:54:22 -0400
From: Brian Shepard <shepard@drexel.edu>
Subject: Re: NKLR Re: (klr650) Jeez, lighten up!
I'm from PA and lately it seems I'm the only one who waves. I don't anymore
because its not worth the humiliation. I was laughed at by several hard core biker
types in a 7-11 parknig lot. They were staring at my KLR650 and laughing very
hard. I didn't get it. I think they were laughing at the "mud-splat" graphic on
the gas tank. Anyway, to each his own.
- -Brian Shepard
Philadelphia PA
A13
Mark wrote:
> Try Florida when it comes to not waving. Not only do 100% of Harley boys
> not wave, one gave Andres and me a dirty look at the 7-11 store when ashed
> "how's it goin'?".
> Mark in PA (not an asshole, but willing to tear new ones for people)
> B2
> A2
>
> At 12:05 PM -0400 6/14/99, Eric Jasniewicz wrote:
> >Man people take stuff way too serious sometimes! No, not all PA riders are,
> >umm, lets say not friendly. Remember, I did note there was ONE guy who
> >waved!
> >
> >Guess I gotta use them smiley faces more often,
> >Eric
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
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> getting a feel for how many actually needed an adjustment at 500 miles. What I'm really saying is that I'm not ready to do it yet and my bike has 800 miles on it and I won't get around to it until about 1000 miles. Hope I'm not taking a big risk.
I would have to say that you are, from reading the posts of others here
I think it was something like 1 in 3 that have grossly out of adjustment
valve clearances for the first check.
Not from a KLR, but when I used to hop-up VW motors I can tell you that
ignoring the valves after a fresh rebuild is not a bright thing to do.
Also from another car my Dodge Raider I can tell you that ignored long
enough and I needed some top-end work done. Oddly, for a reasonably
modern motor, my Raider was really sensitive to valve adjustments and I
did them every 15k miles...performance was radically better too as a
result.
Personally with any motor I would never miss the first few scheduled
services, they are when everything starts seating up....foul up at the
start and you could wind up with poorly broken motor and living with the
performance penalties.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 16:10:30 -0400
From: Chris <kingsqueak@home.com>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Honda Mirrors
This may sound silly...I'm pretty green and just a guess.
Aren't mirror vibrations essentially a harmonics thing? Have any of you
tried attaching any type of weight to the stems on the mirrors. It
would seem to me that even a small amount of weight of some sort might
cancel the resonance that causes the vibrations. Still trying to come
up with a way to vary position of weight, but I'm even thinking along
the lines of small band clamps holding say some short pieces of small
drill rod (very heavy for its size) and try fiddling around with the
position on the mirror stalks. Just a guess.
"Blake, Paul" wrote:
>
> That's great to hear! Anyone else have a similar or better solution to the
> buzzy mirrors?
>
> Dallas Paul
> A13
>
> One of the few things wrong with the KLR/Tengai is buzzy mirrors. I
> picked
> up a couple XR650L mirrors from Fred while in Moab and just got
> around to
> mounting them. The difference in clarity is amazing. I used to get a
> buzz at
> 3500 rpm's with the stock KLR mirrors which made them almost
> useless. Of
> course it seems like I am always at that rpm when around town in
> traffic.
> The Honda mirrors are perfectly clear and vibration free at all
> rpm's. The
> difference is so significant that I feel as if I'm riding a
