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klr650-digest          Monday, March 22 1999          Volume 02 : Number 165




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Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:48:23 -0500
From: Bill Wright <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650)Aluminum or Steel?

While riding on Saturday down GA.180, affectionately known as the 12
miles of smiles, I was following Eric Jasniewicz.  Leaning into the
turns, draging the footpegs, similing all the way.  Well, most of the
way.  I came around one curve right on Eric's tail when I hear this bang
and a metal to metal grind.  I thought at first that I threw a brake
pad.  After testing the brakes, I quickly discovered that the brakes
were fine and came to a quick stop as Eric was disappearing down the
mountain.  I put down the kick stand and started to remove helmet,
jacket, etc. when I noticed the bike falling to the right.  Thank
goodness for those Pelican cases.  No damage, except for my ego.  Two
vehicles came by while I was horsing the KLR back onto its rubber.
After establishing that I was physically ok, just stupid, they proceeded
on down the mountain.  On examination I noticed that the I had thrown
the chain.  No problem, this happened on my dirt bikes several times.
OOPS, what happened to those nice sharp teeth on the rear sprocket.  All
that was there were some cute little bumps.  This sprocket is only 7000
miles old!!  The OEM sprocket lasted 16000 miles.  I remounted the
chain, adjusted tension, and eased her down the mountain.  Yes, Eric did
come back to find out why I wasn't still on his tail.  One look at my
sprocket and all he could say was WOW.  Well, I tried to save a couple
of pounds by going for the more expensive aluminum sprocket, rather than
the cheaper steel one.  Well, I won't make that one again.  I
successfully babied her home while Eric followed.  On the down side,
when I ordered the new sprocket, I also ordered 2 new helmets for my SO
and I and a tank bag.  Amazing how those catalogs draw you in!!  Hope to
be back in the saddle next weekend.

Bill Wright (going back to being the man of steel)
Hotlanta, GA.
98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 23,000 miles

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:51:26 +0000
From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Shift of the Day

> This is not something you have to live with.
> Frank

Frank,

My '87 750 Ninja did the clunk and spin thing with the rear wheel
everytime I first started out with it when it was brand new. I found
that starting it on the center stand, letting it warm up, and then
putting it in first (while still on the center stand) allowed the clutch
to work without getting that drive train strain.  The rear wheel spun
until I kicked it back up into neutral.  Once I was sure the wheel
stopped spinning I nudged the bike forward off the center stand and then
dropped in first again and it acted OK.  As I put more miles on the bike
it seemed to get to be less of a problem.  I also noted that if I
started the bike up for a warm up and shut it down without riding it,
the next time I started it up (whenever) the sticky clutch thing would
definitely occur.

For some reason my A2 has only displayed a sticky clutch problem a few
times but not to the extent that some of the listers have mentioned.

Jeff
A2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:58:54 -0500
From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR 600 Acerbis tank info request.

The 600 was mine, theres still a pic on the thumper page someplace. should
be under the older pictures. I dont know if acerbis makes the tank anymore,
but I do have some comments about it. The tank was formed with lots of small
bubbles in it that caused pinholes at the surface, made the tank look dirty.
Also the gas vapors seep through the plastic and eat the adhesive of the
stickers. If you do decide to get one, please keep my email address and tell
me when you do. I have some stickers scanned and edited in photoshop that
you can print on a good quality color printer and use in place of the ~25$US
apiece ones.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Pippo Nicotera [mailto:[e-mail]]
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 1999 11:29 AM
To: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR 600 Acerbis tank info request.


Hello' Mike and dear fellow listers...

If my memory serves me at all...

is your 600 equipped with an Acerbis plastic tank??? I remember seeing a
picture but I cannot recall where it is! If it's yours, How long it is you
have that tank?... how does it hold to ageing??? Vaguely thinking about
replacing my tiny 600 tank with an aftermarket! Tnx!

Best regards from Pippo in Italy

- --
Politicians should read science fiction, not westerns and detective
stories.
- -- Arthur C. Clarke

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:01:22 +0000
From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)

> you are breaking in all the parts while it is cool out.  Deceleration is
> important too because it sucks oil up on the back side of the piston and
> rings. Well thats my .02 worth, Frank


That's right.

By running the bike cautiously up and down the revs (strong but not
extreme) it helps the rings to seat better (lugging is prohibited as it
rocks the piston and potentially causes more wear than reving it up
short of redline).  Also by running at various speeds....like highway,
then backroad, then 30-ish, then maybe highway again etc...it makes the
metal in the cylinders settle in at different operating
temperatures....almost like a tempering effect.  It has something to do
with the way the atomic structures of the metals are effected by heating
and cooling.

Any metalurgists out there who can add to this?

Jeff
A2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:45:33 -0600 (CST)
From: Dale Borgeson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) GEAR LEVER POSITIONING

> Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 00:24:11 -0000
> From: "Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: (klr650) GEAR LEVER POSITIONING
>
> my foot off the peg (especially if I am standing!).  However, the current
> positioning of the gear lever necessitates that I have to lift my foot off
> the peg, change down gear(s) and reposition my foot back on the peg.
snip snip
> Has anyone else had a similar experience?  I would certainly like to hear
> how you have overcome it.  I suspect that the gear lever may need to be bent
> downwards but I would rather find out if someone has found another (better)
> solution.

I have this same problem. I have very long legs and on all bikes I've
owned I lower the gear shift lever so that I can get positive shifts. When
I tried to do this on the KLR I discovered the same thing you did, the
frame prevents lowering the lever even one spline.

After much thinking I decided that the only solution involved a
manufacturing a complex shift linkage or changing the way I shift.

My solution is to always ride the KLR with boots that are taller in the
toe and I still almost have to lift my whole foot (leg) to get positive
shifts. I know that this solution sucks but it's all I've got.

Cheers
- --
Dale Borgeson    [e-mail]    Minneapolis, MN U.S.A.
"Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:50:57 +0000
From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)

I'm going to have to spend some time going over the manual (for what
> that's worth) and see the particulars about the tolerances.
>
> Jeff---who should be packing for his trip tomorrow.


Jeff,

FWIW

My KLR manuals ('88) suggested SE or SF grades of oil.  There's about
20,000 miles on the bike and I've been using Castrol automotive and
motorcycle grades over the years plus other brands in a pinch (but
rare).  Currently I've got enough Castrol 20W-50 (Motorcycle Specific)
API Service Grade SG to get me through the summer.  The dealer who sold
me the bike said the 20W-50 is better for the tranny in hot weather, and
the dealer I have to go to now told me 20W-50 is too heavy (use
10W-40).  I'm a believer in going with the heavier oil because my area
is a resort location and can be prone to traffic jams.  Need I say
more?

I've had no clutch slippage using this oil.  Also I check my clutch
cable adjustment to make sure it is slack just a hair (though this means
the clutch lever will vibrate and be a little noisey sometimes) so that
the plates are mated properly.  If there is too much slack the shifts
will be clunky because the plates don't get enough space on the squeeze.

The KLR does use a little oil and I monitor the sight glass.  It's not a
lot of usage but if I was going for a 300 miler at highway speeds of 70
I would top it off after I got back with a splash.  There is some carbon
residue on my white fender near the exhaust but no visible blue oil
burning smoke.  It cleans off easily with washing and I've been using
"Rain Dance" wax to get the rest off.  The manual refers to potential
carbon build up in the muffler anyways and thats why there is a screw on
the bottom of it so it can be removed if required.

Jeff
A2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:08:19 -0500
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Oil Capacity

Kurt,

Has anybody tried measuring the amount of oil actually drained from the engine?

Also, wouldn't putting the bike on the center-stand change the angle of the
engine? It would be interesting to see which people on which side of the great
oil divide are using the center-stand method, and which are holding the bike
straight with no center-stand.

Matt Duftler
Tarrytown, NY
A9

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:19:44 -0600
From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) slick 50 and the manufacturer

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> If the manufacturers of cars and truck deemed this product to be vital to the
> longevity of their vehicles, then I would assume that you would find it in the
> crankcase from the factory. Not there is it. Look in the owners manual. Not
> there either? Get my point?


Fair point, but...just to play 'devil's advocate' for a moment...I don't
think any of the major manufacturers really WANT their vehicles to last
a LONG LONG LONG time...

Another example...for years we've been seeing messages in the owner's
manuals that the bodies are "galvanized, double-dipped, rust-proofed" -
and "NO EXTRA (aftermarket) rustproofing is needed or reccommended"...
...but these cars and trucks STILL rust.

phil

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:26:37 -0700
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Capacity

|Has anybody tried measuring the amount of oil actually drained from the engine?
|
|Also, wouldn't putting the bike on the center-stand change the angle of the
|engine? It would be interesting to see which people on which side of the great
|oil divide are using the center-stand method, and which are holding the bike
|straight with no center-stand.
|


This is a good idea Matt, would someone who is about to change their oil volunteer to do this
for us. Otherwise, I'll do it next time. Eldon drains his all night leaning to the right and
then to the left. I drain mine for about 2 hours leaning it on the centerstand to the right and
to the left. It is hard for me to believe that there is 10 ounces left in the engine...

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:25:44 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) remove

please remove me from email list.....thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:28:52 -0700
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you...

|Kurt, I talked with Roger Davis Thursday, one of Kaw.`s tech engineers,
|getting their side of the oil specification thing ( I`m not letting this
|thing go, I`ve talked to 4 oil company engineers, two research facilities,
|and 3 motorcycle engine manufacturers in the last week ) and asked him about
|the oil level in the KLR.

Skip, I love the way you gather this info...there are still some anomalies...because Redondo
says his takes the full 2.5 liters to reach the sight glass...mine takes 2.2 liters. Does the
owner's manual (I don't have it handy) say to change the oil and fill to the sight glass or to
add 2.5 liters at an oil change?

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:30:13 +0000
From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) UFO Super Bike --low fender installation question

My initial impression is that the fender
> looks very short to keep mud, etc. off  the engine, etc.(any comments
> from those of you using this fender?)  I would appreciate any
> information/tips on installing the fender from those of you who have
> been through the process.

Perhaps a mudflap?

Jeff
A2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:48:52 +0000
From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New Headlight concern..

[e-mail] wrote:
>
>         So I am out on my second ride this year, I get home and my
> headlight was out (7000 km, first time this has ever happened). I
> figured replacing the OEM bulb with a H4 90/130w, was the reason. --
> Verified 10A fuse blew, replaced it...still no headlight !! Re-installed
> the OEM bulb, still no light...confirmed all connections were good.
> Tapped the lens and Yammo - light returns ??  Now, every time I remove

Brian,

I don't have a quick fix but I would examine the wire plug connections
under the headlight area just to make sure everything is hooked up OK
(ground etc..) especially if the bike gets washed alot or ridden in the
rain and corrosion could occur in a socket. Also it's possible you've
got a new bulb with a floating filament in there that disconnects when
it cools and when you start up the bike you get nothing until you bang
on the light and cause it to vibrate and contact the filament holder
thus making a connection.  I had a similar problem with another bike and
got a year out of a lamp before it totally went. It's possible to get a
bad bulb out of the box.  If you take out the bulb and hold it up to the
light can you may be able see if the filament looks attached properly.

Of course if you had the time and money to get another bulb, and it's
good to have as a backup anyways, you could try that one and this would
tell you if the problem was machine or bulb specific.

Jeff
A2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 06:52:28 -0800
From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) handlebars

I put Rentahll Desert High bars on mine, I really like em.
Morgan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:54:50 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage

In a message dated 3/21/99 10:56:56 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< It's just that this is my first original idea for a way to  make my KLR a
 better bike. I can get pics - if people are interested, but it's really
 pretty straightforward. >>
Mike, this was a great idea for a lot of storage jobs, thanks and keep
sharing. frank

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:10:42 -0700
From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) <NKLR> AlpineStar's Tech 8 / 5

- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>; KLR List
<[e-mail]>
Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 6:01 AM
Subject: Re: (klr650) <NKLR> AlpineStar's Tech 8 / 5


>
>    Any opinions about the Alpinestar Tech 5 or Tech 8 boots ...  Are they
>waterproof  ?
>

I have some MSR System 6 boots that are made by Alpinestar.  I believe they
are like the Tech 8 boots.  These boots are the best made boots that I have
ever had or seen.  I really like the replaceable instep.  I believe that the
System 6 boots costs less than the Tech 8 too.  They are as waterproof as
any dirtbike boot out there.

Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 10:07:58 +0000
From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) slick 50 and the manufacturer

J.P.Zucht wrote:
>
> [e-mail] wrote:
> >
> > If the manufacturers of cars and truck deemed this product to be vital to the
> > longevity of their vehicles, then I would assume that you would find it in the
> > crankcase from the factory. Not there is it. Look in the owners manual. Not
> > there either? Get my point?
>
> Fair point, but...just to play 'devil's advocate' for a moment...I don't
> think any of the major manufacturers really WANT their vehicles to last
> a LONG LONG LONG time...
>
> Another example...for years we've been seeing messages in the owner's
> manuals that the bodies are "galvanized, double-dipped, rust-proofed" -
> and "NO EXTRA (aftermarket) rustproofing is needed or reccommended"...
> ...but these cars and trucks STILL rust.
>
> phil


FWIW,

A machinist told me years ago that the PTE in Slick 50 will cause a
"leaves in the drain effect" like in those tiny holes you see when you
pull a valve cover on a car that allow the oil to drain back into the
system.  The teflon does lubricate well, but in a micro-view it's like
chunks of plastic.

Jeff
A2

------------------------------

End of klr650-digest V2 #165
****************************