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Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 16:56:29 EST
From: JSherlockHolmes@aol.com
Subject: (klr650) IMS and UFO
The reason I want to change to the IMS tank is several-fold. First, I want to
save weight while maintaining original capacity. Second, I think the plastic
tank looks "cooler" than the metal one. Third, if I do drop the bike, I'd
rather scratch plastic than metal. And finally, I hate the KLR graphics on
the tank and side shrouds. I can remove the side shrouds, but the tank is
hopeless unless I strip it and re-paint it. I believe this process would
meets or exceed the cost of the IMS tank, so I am leaning towards the IMS. I
was just wondering about the fuel "Sweating" because I don't want the
"testes" to suffer fuel burn like they used to on my ol' 82 RM250.
Another question for the group. I hear people talking about using the "UFO"
front fender replacement, but the only pictures I have seen place the fender
right above the tire like a street bikes, or Tengai's. Does UFO offer a
fender that mounts in the original location? Or perhaps, does Acerbis offer a
replacement that mounts in the stock location?
Thank you,
Jim Sherlock 97 KLR650
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Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 14:59:20 -0700
From: Bogdan Swider <BSwider@ColoradoCollege.edu>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Adjusting valves
> I downloaded the archive valve adjustment instructions so that I can do my
> own, but this is my first time adjusting valves. Any suggestions? There is
> no list of special tools required, does anyone know which ones I will
> need?
>
> Lou
>
The dental pick (I used a small ice pick) has already been mentioned. A
small magnet will also work. You need a in/lb not a ft/lb torque wrench.
(Good U.S. made 3/8" Husky, $20 at Home Depot) Unless you get a 1/4" drive
(hard to find and expensive, I bought one for about $35 at Harbour Freight
but it's Chinese) you'll need an universal joint adapter to access some rear
cam cover bolts. Remember this throws off the torque reading. RAGS or
ALUMINUM FOIL to stuff down the cavities of the engine. Many listers have
dropped bolts down there. Anti-Seize to put on all bolts when you
re-assemble. Make sure the bolts drop easily into the holes; they won't if
the valve cover is a little askew. First tighten by hand. If torquing by
feel remember that, at the valve cover, the bolt heads are oversize for
their diameter making it easy to overtorque. Many of us (like me) have
stripped our bolt holes. Bogdan
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 15:10:48 -0700
From: Bogdan Swider <BSwider@ColoradoCollege.edu>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Turn Signal
> Newbie Question here. I broke my turn signal the 2nd day I had my new 00
> KLR, My question is this, how can I modify the turn signal where it won't
> get broke so easy, and what can I replace it with that won't cost me an
> arm n a leg?
>
> Dale
>
Dale, I've been on the list a good while but I can't remember anyone
mentioning a busted signal. It must have happened but it seems to be rare.
I, for example, have taken out my mirrors and many levers; I've knocked my
handlebars out of true but never have I lost a signal. It may not be worth
changing the stock setup cause chances are it won't happen again. Bogdan
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 15:18:00 -0700
From: Bogdan Swider <BSwider@ColoradoCollege.edu>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Adjusting valves
> -----Oh yeah another thing, remember your can just loosen the cams mostly
> away from the sprocket & chain side to change shims. Usually no need to
> remove the cams. Bogdan
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Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 15:36:45 -0700
From: "Carl Sorensen" <carls@transera-intl.com>
Subject: (klr650) slipping outa 5th
when its at full throttle, usually up a steep him and such. Leave my toe =
underneath it and its fine. Only in fifth. Clutch???
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 17:45:49 EST
From: K650dsn@aol.com
Subject: Re: (klr650) IMS and UFO
In a message dated Mon, 27 Mar 2000 4:58:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, JSherlockHolmes@aol.com writes:
> The reason I want to change to the IMS tank is several-fold. First, I want to
> save weight while maintaining original capacity. Second, I think the plastic
> tank looks "cooler" than the metal one. Third, if I do drop the bike, I'd
> rather scratch plastic than metal. And finally, I hate the KLR graphics on
> the tank and side shrouds. I can remove the side shrouds, but the tank is
> hopeless unless I strip it and re-paint it. I believe this process would
> meets or exceed the cost of the IMS tank, so I am leaning towards the IMS. I
> was just wondering about the fuel "Sweating" because I don't want the
> "testes" to suffer fuel burn like they used to on my ol' 82 RM250.
>
> Another question for the group. I hear people talking about using the "UFO"
> front fender replacement, but the only pictures I have seen place the fender
> right above the tire like a street bikes, or Tengai's. Does UFO offer a
> fender that mounts in the original location? Or perhaps, does Acerbis offer a
> replacement that mounts in the stock location?
All very good reasons, James. Unfortunately, the IMS tank I tried a couple of years ago did not live up to its claims. I could barely squeeze 5 gallons into it and one of the molded in nuts broke loose and would not hold the side panel. The tank does evaporate fuel out the sides like all plastic tanks do. IMS insists that the new tanks are up to capacity, but I would verify that first.
There are several universal front fenders that you can bolt up instead of the stocker. I prefer the Acerbis Baja because of its louvered back section.
Gino
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