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klr650-digest         Sunday, March 19 2000         Volume 02 : Number 1603



Re: (klr650) Re: switch off lights
Re: (klr650) to fix it or not?
Re: (klr650) Csheep seat
Re: (klr650) Csheep seat
Re: (klr650) Re: KLR Bags
Re: (klr650) to fix it or not?
Re: (klr650) Give me a brake!
(klr650) Pelican Cases For Sale 1/2 off MSRP
RE: (klr650) Moab Info
Re: (klr650) Give me a brake!
(klr650) Re: Headlight switch
Re: (klr650) Give me a brake!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 05:10:57 -0800
From: "r. scott lamorte" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: switch off lights

Steven I. Timm wrote:
>Why would you want to turn off a HUGE saftey feature...

i know what i want to... i'm replacing the stock glass fuse with a
resettable breaker. to reset, it needs the current cut. thus, switch.

that, and i am somewhat concerned with power gloves/vests. if i do
get these items and need them, i have the option of "converting the
excess electricity to heat," as someone said, instead of turning my
charging system to toast.

we'll see... i'm no expert with this stuff, just a dedicated tinkerer.

- --scott

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Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 09:40:16 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) to fix it or not?

In a message dated 03/18/2000 8:47:33 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<
 Do you carry tire irons but if flatted will use the cell phone instead?

 Or in the case of a flat will you  walk a mile to find a can of fix a flat?

 is everyone prepared to fix a broken chain?

 I would love to know just what everyone is prepared to fix on the long haul
 and what to do if you are not prepared to fix it. >>

Neil,

It really depends where you are, how comfortable you are working on the bike,
and your level of expertise.  I know for a fact that there are lots of
riders, touring in the USA whose tool kits consist of a cell phone and a Visa
card.  If you are touring in underdeveloped countries, this may not be the
answer.  I prefer to be as self sufficient as possible.  The only way you can
get to that point is to become knowledgable about your ride and carry the
necessary tools.  As a rule, I carry what is required to fix flats, and
perform general maintenance on the motorcycle.  I don't rely on the OEM
toolkit, I usually build my own kit to suit the bike I'm riding.  When I work
on my machine at home, I always use the toolkit I have built.  That way I
know that the tools required are there.

Gino

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Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 09:48:32 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Csheep seat

In a message dated 03/18/2000 8:48:06 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Hi everyone.

 Has anybody ever tried using a legitimate sheepskin on top of the seat in
 order to keep one's reproductive organs functional after a really long ride?

 Just wondering
  >>

Yep,
Wouldn't ride long distance without one. My neighbors and I went in on a
large pelt, sheared to 1/4 inch pile.  it was enough for 3 medium sized
sections.  I use very small bungee straps to attach it to whatever bike I'm
riding.  One neighbor sewed some foam camping pad to underside of his section
of pelt and said it works really well.


Gino


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Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 09:50:38 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Csheep seat

   Juan,,
  Me, Me, Me    I do that,  Pulled the old sheep skin out and place it in the
seat..
 My butt likes it,

                  Mike


In a message dated 3/18/00 10:48:06 PM EST, [e-mail] writes:

<< Has anybody ever tried using a legitimate sheepskin on top of the seat in
 order to keep one's reproductive organs functional after a really long ride?

 Just wondering >>

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Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 09:52:11 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: KLR Bags

In a message dated 03/18/2000 9:08:51 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< > Tom,
 > I am planning a trip to Inuvik and returning through Alaska.  I keep
 reading
 > your  comments regarding the danger aspect of Tim's hardbags.  I currently
 > have Tim's Artic Cooler style bags and wonder what your opinion is of
 these.
 > I was considering upgrading to the big metal boxes but your comments keep
 me
 > wondering if I am thinking right.  My primary reason would be to have my
 > gear lockable.  The coolers are terrific and I don't think they will do
 > gashing damage if they fell on me.  They work neat in that I can remove
 the
 > entire contents by just pulling the liner with its content intact and
 > generally I am very happy with them.    I think if I were to fall though,
 > they would probably do bone breaking damage too if they were fully loaded
 > and I landed wrong.  If I landed correctly I could escape serious injury.




 When touring, if you've got stuff strapped on the back of the bike in
 addition to the panniers, it's vulnerable anyway.  So I still can't really
 leave the bike parked somewhere without worrying whether or not my sleeping
 bag and tent are going to be there when I return.  That's bikes for ya...
 My motto is:  Only bring things I don't care much about losing. >>


My two cents.  I really think the best option (for me at least) is a lockable
tail trunk like a Givi, and soft saddle bags teamed up with tank panniers.
You have some security with the top case, the flexibility with the soft bags
and the distribution of load with the tank panniers.

Gino

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Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 10:34:13 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) to fix it or not?

Gino writes:

<< As a rule, I carry what is required to fix flats, and  perform general
maintenance on the motorcycle. >>

    Tubeless tires are so much easier to fix on the road that I would look
into converting the KLR rims to tubeless application.  I know there's a
company that converts wire-type rims for cruisers into tubeless rims -- and I
know there's tubeless dual-sport tires on the market, thanks to BMW, which
has been running them since the late '80's.
    While BMW's Akront rims are tubeless because the spoke nipples are
mounted in external flanges on the wheels, this company (and I'll try and see
if I can look it up in a back-issue of "Cruiser" magazine) seals the nipples
with silicone, where the rim-band would normally go.  Don't know how this
would hold up with serious off-road pounding, but it'd probably do just fine
doing the AlCan.
    The technology exists, we should take advantage of it.
    Usually, it takes me less time to fix a tubeless flat on a bike than it
does to change a tire on a car.  Find the hole, plug it with a
screwdriver-sized tool, air it up, and off I go.

Pete, two-tired to Streak

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Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 16:46:12 GMT
From: "zootpatutie ." <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Give me a brake!

I'm using hard ebc pads on the front but am thinking the Dunlop pads would
be a softer and better brake. S/S upgrade to the front improved things. My
question is with the rear brake. The brake lever shaft on my A9 appears to
have a lot of play, and the rear brake never feels like there's strong
contact. Is this normal for the brake pivot bolt, and would S/S rear line
improve things enough to be worth it?
Todd
A9

>
>Reply-To: [e-mail]
>
>
>Hey, guys and gals;
>     Just installed a Fastline SS brake line on the front of my new KLR and
>could not believe the difference.
>     Matter of fact, I was a bit suspicious of the improvement.  Suspecting
>airbound hydraulics in the first place, I bled the rear unit using my
>MityVac
>bleeder.  If there was any improvement it was not worth reporting.
>     I am amazed with the improvement in feel and actual whoa-power from
>this
>simple $40 change.  I can no longer squeeze the brake lever back to the
>grip
>and the stock Dunlop is sticky enough to get the rear end feeling pretty
>light.  Not the best front brake I've ever had (I'd award that to the
>ABS-equipped R1100RS I had a few years ago) but not bad at all.
>     While I have used SS brake lines before I've never experienced this
>level
>of upgrade.
>     I highly recommend a stainless steel brake line to those who share my
>concern with the lame-ass stock front brake.
>
>Pete the Streak of Dot 4 on his brow
>
>
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Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 11:46:55 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Pelican Cases For Sale 1/2 off MSRP

(1) 1120 Guard Box $14.00 (MSRP 28.00) +$3.00 shipping
(1) 1300 Box          $30.00 (MSRP 59.60)   + $4.00 shipping

Refer to www.pelican.com for dimensions.

Kurt Thomas

AT1      USN
Aircrewman/Aviation Electronics Tech. for the<A
HREF="http://www.sikorsky.com/programs/stallion/dragon.html"> MH-53E</A>
HM-15 NAS Corpus Christi, TX
96 KLR 650

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 16:27:52 GMT
From: "zootpatutie ." <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Moab Info

I'd add first aid, basic survival (space blanket, magnesium fire starter),
lighter, campstove, cooking utensils, and a hip flask for the evening.
Todd
A9

> > I think it would be great to see a Web Page
> > that had a detailed list of things to bring (for both me and the KLR),
> > things to plan for and things to know in case of breakdown or emergency
>on
> > the way to Moab.
> > Michael A12
>
>Well, lemme start this desired list off with some general stuff. Tell me
>what I forgot -- it's been over 6 months since my last trip...
>
>I'm putting it into easy html code (BUT NOT HTML FORMAT), so you can just
>cut and paste it into your new webpage. Perhaps 2 or 3 list variations
>depending on hotel/camping, restaurants/eating away from civilization,
>america/third world type factors.
>
>I'm going to assume camping in summerish weather, america (i.e. you can buy
>random food and tools and oil if need be).
>
><ul>
><li>Shelter
><ul>
><li>tent, lean-to makings, tarp
><li>blankets and sheet or sleeping bag
><li>pad between you and the cold, cold ground
><li>pillow (or folded up pair of jeans)
></ul>
><li>Food & water
><ul>
><li>Powerbars for sudden energy needs on the road
><li>Traveling water (enough to make it between gas stops)
><li>Food to cook at night over campfire or stove if you're packing one
><li>stove & fuel
><li>Flattish bowl, spoon, knife
><li>Doc Bronner's soap to clean dishes
></ul>
><li>Clothing & sundries
><ul>
><li>jeans
><li>underwear
><li>t-shirts
><li>sweatshirt
><li>capilene or fleece for extra warmth
><li>one more pair of socks than you think -- just in case
><li>Doc Bronner's soap to clean socks & underwear -- you can bring less
>than
>1/day.
><li>shoes (flip-flops or tevas or those river runner slip-on things) for
>communal showers, peeing in the middle of the night, etc.
></ul>
><li>Tools
><ul>
><li>hex or allen wrenches
><li>socket wrench with right size heads for visible nuts on the motorcycle
><li>screwdriver (with phillips & flat heads)
><li>pliers or Gerber multi-tool
><li>swiss army knife (could be the knife for food, but make sure you wash
>it)
><li>chain lube/wd40
><li>1 quart of oil (just in case, and your riding buddies might thank you)
><li>itsy-bitsy glasses screws & screwdriver
><li>zip-ties
><li>duct tape
></ul>
></ul>
>
>---o&>o---
>Sarah Barwig
>[e-mail]
>
>
>Visit the KLR650 archives at
>http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
>Support Dual Sport News... [e-mail]
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 12:29:37 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Give me a brake!

Todd writes:

<< The brake lever shaft on my A9 appears to
 have a lot of play, and the rear brake never feels like there's strong
 contact. >>

Yeah, my A14 is like that.  I bled the rear brake and saw no improvement.
The SS front line worked so well that I'm thinking of doing that to the back,
too.

Pete the brakeless Streak

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Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 15:22:47 -0800
From: "e. rhoads" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Headlight switch

>     Installation suggestions ::: install switch across your low beam
> wire...get a bright indicator light and mount it where you can see that
it's
> on even under bright conditions.
>
=====   I should have said that the switch _must be_ installed across low
beam wire....that's where the power comes from for the indicator light.

e.


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 10:23:54 -0800 (PST)
From: John  Lyon <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Give me a brake!

Todd:

The brake lever should be level with the right footpeg top. The brake rod
protrusion should be 3.0 to 3.5 mm below the nut. (A picture is worth a
thousand words here, so see section 10-6 in the KLR 650 Service Supplement
if you have it)

The rear brake is a pain in the ass to bleed. Take your time and get all
that air out.

IMO the SS rear brake line made a big improvement in the rear brake action
and is a worth while and easy upgrade.

John


On Sun, 19 Mar 2000 16:46:12 GMT, zootpatutie . wrote:

>  I'm using hard ebc pads on the front but am thinking the Dunlop pads
would
>  be a softer and better brake. S/S upgrade to the front improved things.
My
>  question is with the rear brake. The brake lever shaft on my A9 appears
to
>  have a lot of play, and the rear brake never feels like there's strong
>  contact. Is this normal for the brake pivot bolt, and would S/S rear line

>  improve things enough to be worth it?
>  Todd
>  A9





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End of klr650-digest V2 #1603
*****************************