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klr650-digest        Friday, October 29 1999        Volume 02 : Number 1087



(klr650) Fork seals
Re: (klr650) steering head bearings
Re: (klr650) Combat Touring Boots
Re: (klr650) Torque Wrench
Re: (klr650) Combat Touring Boots
Re: (klr650) NKLR- Ooh baby!(Ford Truck Speech...Slide)
Re: (klr650) NKLR- Ooh baby!
Re: (klr650) Oops!
Re: (klr650) Combat Touring Boots
(klr650) nklr- Ooh baby!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 02:14:39 -0500
From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fork seals

Howdy listers,

I'm bored, so I thought I would throw this out for the archives or if
anyone needs to go through this anytime soon..

One of my fork seals took pretty good puke today (for the first time) at
29,200 miles.  I wanted to replace them today, since tommorrow there is
supposed to be really good weather and I'm hitting a local "trail" with a
buddy of mine.  I didn't want to be offroading with a dry fork leg and
possibly mess up any bushings in there.  Luckily I had the day off today
and I noticed the leak relatively early in the day, so I had enough time to
scramble around town for parts and such.  My luck continued when the third
shop I stopped at actually had the oem dust and oil seals for both forks
(what a miracle)!!!  I decided to do both forks since I figured that the
other one wouldn't last long anyway. Forty bucks for all the seals, not
cheap but not bad considering.

Here are a few points I thought were worth mentioning, actually more of a
play by play about the procedure:

1.  It sucked.  What a pain in the ass.  There are little tiny parts that
you have to keep track of and that don't even show up in the service
manual.  On one leg I had to drive in and remove the new oil seal twice
because some parts fell out accidentally and I had to seperate the top tube
from the bottom tube to realign everything. I hope I didn't wreck the seal
doing this.  It's also very dirty work with all that stinky black oil that
never really completely drains out of the forks, so you end up tracking it
everywhere.  Cleanup took a good chunk of time on its own.  I guess though
you should keep in mind that I've never done this before.  Good thing I'm
patient. (Whine mode off).

2.  The easiest part was removing the forks from the bike.  First lift the
front end up and prop it up securely, remove the front caliper and wheel,
disconnect any cables, loosen the triple clamps and work the fork legs out.
 Remember to loosen the fork caps a little while their still on the bike so
you'll be able to remove them later when the forks are off.  Once the forks
are off, remove the boots, and the caps and dump the oil out of the top.
Now your ready to disassemble the forks.
    The hardest part of disassembly was separating the top tube of the fork
from the bottom.  This required the removal of a 10mm hex screw at the
bottom of the lower tube.  But as others on this list have experienced, you
just can't turn this screw out because it's connected to to a damper rod on
the inside of the fork which spins freely.
    Some have mentioned that an air impact wrench makes quick work of this
screw, but I didn't have one.  All I had was manual impact wrench from
Sears. After removing the top cap, the spring and all the oil, the service
manual says you need a special tool to hold the damper rod still while you
loosen the 10mm screw.  I ended up using a broom stick.  It worked well
after some wrestling with it.
    I stuck the broom stick down the tube, I turned the whole fork upside down
so it was being held up by the broom stick on the damper rod, then I got my
dad to brace the bottom of the fork (now the top) against a workbench while
I pounded on the screw with the impact driver.  After a good while it broke
free and I had to hold the now spinning broomstick with a pressure pliers
while I finished loosening the screw... x 2  Whew!
    With the damper rod free I could seperate the tubes as described in the
service manuals.  Basically, remove the clip holding in the dust seal, then
extend the top tube briskly several times while holding the bottom one
until the force pops the seals out and the tubes come apart.  Then, slide
the dust and oil seals off and throw them away.
    I should mention that when the tubes come apart is when all those damn
little parts show up.  Be careful not to turn the fork tubes upsidown at
this point 'cause the damper rod will fly out, its in the top tube.  There
is a two part piece which resides in the bottom part of the fork leg that
fits in under the damper rod which you should make sure is put together
right before reassembling the forks.  This is where I had my problems
tracking parts and realigning things the right way, as I mentioned before.
If any amateur mechanics like me need more explanation about this, e-mail
me or ask the list.

3.  To drive the oil seal into its seat requires a special tool according
to the service manual.  I didn't have it, so I went the hardware store with
the old oil seal in hand and I bought a PVC pipe that was the same diameter
as the oil seal.  Make sure that the pipe is not so thick as to rest on the
soft sealing part of the seal (the wiper), it should just touch the hard
rubber perimeter because you will be applying pressure here.  You can file
it down if it is too thick.  When I got home, I cleaned the area where the
oil seal goes, oiled up the outside of the new oil seal, carefully slid it
onto and down the top tube and just introduced it to its seat.  Then I used
the PVC pipe to carefully and evenly drive the oil seal into place.  I did
have to push down (and bang on it a little) with some force, so its good to
leave the pipe a long enough length so it sticks up past the fork.  You'll
know if you drove it in far enough if you can get the dust seal deep enough
so its clip can go in its groove.
    After that's done all you need to do is screw the top and bottom tubes
(with new seals) together using the 10mm hex screw on the bottom.  The
manual says to apply sealant to both sides of the washer on this screw.
Torquing the screw down was done by doing the broomstick trick in reverse,
and of course by using a torque wrench instead of an impact driver.  Word
of warning, before flipping the fork upsidown, make sure you have threaded
the screw in part way into the damper rod so it is being held in place,
otherwise it will fall out and you will have to disassemble everything to
make sure your bottom tube parts are still aligned correctly with the rod.
It would've been nice to use some kind of vise to hold the tube while I
torqued it, but I'm paranoid about crushing something so I had my dad help
me here again.
    Then its just a matter of sliding in the spring, washer, and spacer, fill
with 420ml or so of fork oil, and thread the cap onto the fork.  Then put
the fork boots on, and reinstall onto bike.  There, that wasn't so hard was
it?  Quit your whining. :)

Now that I've written all this down, I realized that I haven't taken the
bike for a shakedown spin yet.  Jeez, I hope I don't have to take all this
back!  I'll find out soon enough.

Thanks,
Carlos

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 01:08:47 -0700
From: Tobin Lampson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) steering head bearings

Carlos Y. Gonz=E1lez wrote:
Toby Link writes-
> > Here's the problem:  Upon hard braking, I can feel a little clink
> > through the bars, and another clink upon release.  With the bike
> > standing still I can recreate this clink by pushing forward really
> > hard.
>=20
> That's the sound I had when my steering bearings were loose.  It sounds
> like you did the adjustment the right way (other than the overtightenin=
g),
> so I'm not sure what's causing that clicking.  There are two possibilit=
ies
> I can think of.  One is that your bearings might be shot and need repla=
cing
> (how may miles are on your bike?) The other is if you have progressive
> springs in the forks.  When I put progressive springs in I heard a nast=
y
> clicking that was very similar to the feeling/sound from the head beari=
ngs.
>  I talked to a mechanic today and he happened to mention that noise fro=
m
> progressives is pretty common with other bikes too.
>=20
> Hope this helps,
> Carlos

Toby---
    (its soooo wierd writing to another guy with my name!!!!) It's MY name!
No really its Tobin.....anyway......
    Carlos' advice is solid. I might only ad to it the following.
    First, it sure sounds like a shot steering head bearing. Or one that
was
once maybe overtightened, damaged, and now has slop.
    Look also at the front brake piston assembly. It's mounting bolts may
be loose.
    Front, really worn brake pads, may shift a little in the test you
describe.
=09

                SSSSSSLLLLLLIIIIIDDDDDEEEEE

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 04:27:48 -0400
From: "Mark Wilson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Combat Touring Boots

Who sells the Combat Touring Boots? I havent been able to find them.


Mark Wilson
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/6419
http://www.angelfire.com/mo/motormark/index.html
KLR-650 A-13 " Warthogg"
Stone Mountain, Ga.


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for info.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 03:12:42 PDT
From: "CrazyDave" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque Wrench

On Thu, 28 Oct 1999 11:15:17 -0700, Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:

> > I think it was Bogdan that mentioned using a swivel adaptor on his
torque
> > wrench.  Anything that changes the effective length of the torque
wrench
> > changes it's readings.  You can use a straight extension and have an
> > accurate reading but a wobble joint won't be accurate.
> >
> Actually, Fred, if your straight extension is long enough, you will be
> changing your torque values too, no matter how careful you are.  I could
> send you a detailed mathamatical vector analysis to prove it to you, or
you
> could take my word on it.
>
>
> Jeff
>
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
> Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail]
> for info.

Here is the formulaFor those who care)

 T x L
- -------  = Y
L + E

T= torque

L=distance center of handle to center of torque wrench drive

E=length of extension, center of drive to center of adapter

Y= modified torque




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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 04:15:35 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Combat Touring Boots

> Who sells the Combat Touring Boots? I havent been able to find them.

Aerostich/RiderWearhouse

http://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.filereader?700284650+EN/catalogs
/1018

Kurt



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 04:20:29 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR- Ooh baby!(Ford Truck Speech...Slide)

> Clean65's-73's you can't go wrong with. 74's-82's are
> less longevity constructed and have the worst smog sysatems on
> them. After that, say 87-pres., the fuel injected ones are said
> to get decent mileage, but their costly.

err...a...and the '83's-'86's?

Kurt '86 F250 Lariet SuperCab Dually
         6.9 TurboDiesel W/Intercooler
          and Gear Vendor


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 03:25:24 PDT
From: "CrazyDave" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR- Ooh baby!

On Thu, 28 Oct 1999 13:58:10 -0700 (PDT), Juan Villarreal wrote:

> Hello everyone...  Took the Rock out for it's
> first post-depot spin today.  It runs like a top-
> I love this machine!  More and more I'm starting
> to think along the lines of what Gino said a
> while back...  The day the end of the KLR is
> announced is the same day I march to the dealer
> to buy another.
>
> A word of caution for those of you who have bikes
> that might be "down" for two or three weeks of
> maintenance.  The pressure on my front tire bled
> down to 10 psi, and the rear dropped to 20.  I
> normally run them at 30 psi, so I would consider
> that to be fairly significant.  So be sure to
> check that once you get your bikes put back
> together.  Probably a "no-brainer" for you
> seasoned knuckle-busters, but a new one on me.
>
> On the fun side of things...  I swear the thing
> feels a little zippier on the acceleration
> butt-meter.  Is it just me?  Or could the the new
> sprocket and chains be playing a role in this?
> For what it's worth, I stayed with the stock
> gearing.
>
> One more question...  I'm considering buying a
> pickup truck (when in Texas...).  I've narrowed
> it down to a Tacoma, Tundra, and F-150 (6.5 ft
> bed).  Will a bike like a KLX300 fit into the bed
> of these puppies?  With the tail gate up?  And
> how important is it to be able to close the tail
> gate behind the bike you're carrying?  I'm new to
> the truck/hauling thing, so any advice would be
> most welcome.  Some informal consumer reviews
> would also be appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance, and happy riding!
>
> Juan Villarreal
>
>
> =====
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
> Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail]
> for info.

Jaun,
  I have a Dakota with a 6'6" bed, the KLR wont fit straight, needs about
three more inches.  Would most likely fit with flat tires.  If you get a
fairly new truck you dont have to worry a lot about driving with no
tailgate.  I haven't seen a cracked bed in years.

Crazydave




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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 04:28:51 -0700
From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oops!

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
To: KLR  650 <[e-mail]>
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 7:27 PM
Subject: (klr650) Oops!


> Private e-mail accidentally sent to the list.
> Sorry!
>
> Juan Villarreal

Hey, no problem at all.  I enjoyed reading your "enthusiasm".  =^)

Cheers,

Arne



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 04:34:47 -0700
From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Combat Touring Boots

Aerostitch isn't it?

Cheers,

Arne

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Wilson <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 1:27 AM
Subject: Re: (klr650) Combat Touring Boots


> Who sells the Combat Touring Boots? I havent been able to find them.
>
>
> Mark Wilson
> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/6419
> http://www.angelfire.com/mo/motormark/index.html
> KLR-650 A-13 " Warthogg"
> Stone Mountain, Ga.
>
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
> Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail]
> for info.
>


Visit the KLR650 archives at
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail]
for info.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 05:00:44 -0700
From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) nklr- Ooh baby!

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR- Ooh baby!


> One more question...  I'm considering buying a
> pickup truck (when in Texas...).  I've narrowed
> it down to a Tacoma, Tundra, and F-150 (6.5 ft
> bed).  Will a bike like a KLX300 fit into the bed
> of these puppies?  With the tail gate up?  And
> how important is it to be able to close the tail
> gate behind the bike you're carrying?  I'm new to
> the truck/hauling thing, so any advice would be
> most welcome.  Some informal consumer reviews
> would also be appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance, and happy riding!
>
> Juan Villarreal

I have an F-150 ex-cab 4x4 that I'm really happy with.  It's the shortbox
and if I put my bike a little offset I can close the tailgate.  Which also
locks - which would make it difficult for someone to roll the bike out.  I
went with
the Ford back in '97 for a few reasons... I liked the ergonomics, I found it
comfortable, and it was full-sized truck that was priced the same as the
Dodge DaKOTA sPORT THAT i ALSO LOOKED AT. Shit... CAPS lock... The main
factors that sold me were the rear third door, and the ability to disable
the passenger side airbag - which I didn't want active with the kids in the
front
seat (in '97 it was the only vehicle to offer these options).

I would also say to find a good used truck as opposed to a new one... There
are SO MANY of the Fords out there that you're bound to find a good deal.

Happy hunting...

Cheers,

Arne



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------------------------------

End of klr650-digest V2 #1087
*****************************