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klr650-digest        Sunday, February 21 1999        Volume 02 : Number 054




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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 12:15:19 -0600
From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Front fender near disaster

Rob Gendreau wrote:

>I'm thinking of making up a pre-ride checklist including all the safety >critical bolts and nuts I should examine before a ride. Any >suggestions?


I agree it is a good idea to check your nuts before a ride...  :>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 13:15:55 -0500
From: Randolph Schack <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Brakes, electricity, and a bit o' paint

Hi guys,
  A couple of questions for you...
  Firstly, I've had the bike indoors for the winter, and with it sitting
about ten feet behind my computer, I couldn't resist tinkering a little,
even though I know nothing about motorcycle mechanics.  Anyway, I removed
the brake calipers (front and rear) and pumped the pistons out to see how
the pad wear compensation stuff works, then opened the front master
cylinder and pushed the pads back and remounted the calipers on the discs.
Now, when I spin the wheels (by hand), the pads scrape against the discs
(very) slightly.  Is that normal?  Did it do that before?  Will it go away
once I use the brakes a few times on the open road?
  Also, does anyone who knows anything about electricity (I sure don't)
know if it would be possible to wire a "mini SPDT 3A at 125VAC" switch into
the headlight circuit?  I'd love to have a momentary pushbutton interrupt
for the headlight - IMHO it's better to signal with an off/on than a
highbeam/lowbeam.  (If this is a really bad idea, just say, "Randolph,
that's a really bad idea.")
  And I'm STILL planning to paint the bike this winter (I'm in NY, I have a
couple of months left) - I just got done fixing up my workroom, so this'll
happen right soon.  I'm still trying to decide between dark metallic blue
(http://anguish.org/~greyson/klrpaint.jpg) or black, or maybe even a red or
BMW-ish yellow...

Thanks,
  Randolph

1991 Jeep Comanche ("The Veteran")
1999 Kawasaki KLR650 ("The Rookie")
http://anguish.org/~greyson/index.shtml

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 12:34:42 -0600
From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First ride of the year in canada

Vik sed:

> I have a
> 80/100W headlight, electric vest. electric grips and GPS running off
> my bike's electrical system....I have driven for hours
> with those accessories fired up and have never had any ill effects...
>
> I can't explain it I just know it works.



It's the weather.  All KLR electrical generating systems put out pretty
much the same.  But with the COLD weather we have up here in the GWFN
(Great White Frozen North), the electrons tend to flow more slowly
through the wiring, therefore not causing heat problems like melted
wires or burned fuses.  This happily allows us to runs things like a
heated vest, heated chaps, heated boxers, heated socks, heated grips,
heated footpegs, heated seat, and heated radio knobs and, of course, a
defogger grid on our faceshield ... without depleting the battery.

The only downside is when you get home and shut the key off and the
slow-moving electrons between the keyswitch and the headlight cause the
headlight to remain 'on' for a while.  As you're walking up to the house
a neighbor will sometimes point out that 'you left your light on'...

phil

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 13:37:17 -0500
From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Front fender near disaster

Rob Gendreau wrote:

> I'm thinking of making
> up a pre-ride checklist including all the safety critical bolts and nuts I
> should examine before a ride. Any suggestions?

I have found the bolt that tightens the shift lever to be loose on more
than one occassion (actually two times only). I doused it in threadlock
after cleaning it really well. Seems as though it attracts "roaming"
chain lube and works itself free. Not a problem now since threadlock but
could have been....

Jake

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 10:36:35 -0800
From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (nklr)(whatever)Anza Ft. fender

Isn't Anza a blast. I should spend more time there for as close as I live.
South of the park is an old airplane graveyard I have been told....fenced
off of course.  Way south, close to the border is a HUGE abandoned RAIL ROAD
TRESTLE...tunnels...the works, Cariso Gorge, there is a HO gauge model of it
in the San Diego Model RailRoad Museum.  I have never ridden there but I
have seen it from airplane windows.  It's my next exploration adventure I
think.
There is a jeep trail that comes down out of the mountains near Idlewild
called Coyote Canyon.  It's closed at least half the year due to running
water and habitat protection for the endangered Big Horn Sheep.  I haven't
ridden that one yet either but I have friends that have done it downhill on
Mt. bikes. I have one crazy buddy, "Russ the Bus," that has done it in a "68
double slide-door VW BUS.....Baja Tires and and a Rabbit GTI powerplant.
Same BUS has been to the top of blow sand at Glamis if you can believe that!
Any way this trail comes down right into the park.
Close call on the fender.  I firmly believe one cannot be over prepared to
ride in the desert.  She can be a harsh mistress.
Hey, while we're talk'in story here, have any of you Baja vagabundos been to
Malarimo.  It is the cape cod like peninsula that sticks out into the
Pacific Ocean about a hundred miles.  Its near Guerero Negro and Scammons
Lagoon (Grey Whale spawning grounds).  Everything that floats around the
Pacific Rim (clockwise current) ends up on this beach.  It is one of the
world's premier beachcombing beaches.  Difficult access by boat, even
tougher by land.  But a guy on a bike might get in and out without the
temptation to haul out too much "treasure."
Has anybody been there?  Anybody want to go?
Morgan
Wanderlusting in Carlsbad

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 14:24:25 -0500
From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Balancer chain tension adjuster

I was revewing my *exhaustive* service records today and came across a
more painful lesson in my life and decided to share it with anyone who
has a KLR still under warranty.

I bought my KLR new in Valdosta, GA (yech) in 1996. Shortly after that I
moved to South Florida (ugghh!) and resumed operation of my love on a
daily basis. I was doing a 6000 mile service on it in my garage and
found that the idler bolt for the balancer chain tension adjuster spun
FREELY! I took it to the Kaw dealer the following business day and
explained the predicament. They held the bike for several days "checking
on the warranty status of the repair". After a week, they said the bolt
was not covered under the warranty and that it was the fault of the
dealership  that assembled the bike. They said they would fix the bike
for nearly $200 or I could take it back to south Georgia and have the
dealer there fix it for free. Lacking the time to do this, I finally got
the repair for a little over $80 and another week later, finally rode
away.

At my last valve adjustment (12,000 miles), I asked my dealership here
in Jacksonville to "check (the balancer chain tension adjuster) also
while you have the  bike". When I picked the bike up, the valves had
been done (I actually saw the bike with the covers off-ooooh!) but the
mechanic "couldn't find the nut I was talking about?"

Moral of this story; make sure that your idler bolt does not spin freely
before you (1) move away from your dealer and (2) familiarize yourself
with the method of adjusting this bolt described in the newsletter (was
that Eldon's description?), as some dealerships haven't a clue as to
what to do with it.

Thanks for tolerating the long post.

Jake, freezing in Florida!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 15:06:18 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Balancer chain tension adjuster

Let me see if I have this correcct:

A guy buys a bike from a dealer who assembled it improperly.
The guy moves away and finds a mechanical problem.
He takes it to another Kaw dealer who does not underrstand the problem or
adjustment.
They problem eventually get fixed.

MORAL OF THE STORY:  Learn to be your own mechanic and make sure you let Kaw
know of your dissatisfaction with the incompetent dealers.  If you find a
competent dealer/mechanic, pay them fairly and appreciate it.

And, there are far too many incompetent dealers.  And even more incompetent
mechanics working at dealers.

I have been riding since 1964.  Each and every year since 1964.  I honestly
believe that one of the reasons that the average age of a motorcyclist is
climbing is becasue of poor dealers.  A young guy goes out and gets his first
bike,  He is not a mechanic.  He is not an enthusiast -- yet.  When this young
guy needs service or mechanical help he goes to his dealer and gets ripped off
with shabby service.  If he does not learn to do his own service and repairs,
he continues to experience god awful service and eventually he decides to get
out of motorcycles.  The dealer loses in the long run.  Sure , there are other
reasons.  But we really do need dealers that have better mechanical ability.
My local dealer recently told me a relay was defective and I had it tested and
found it to be fine.  Nuff for today.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 11:33:28 -0800
From: "Vikram Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Helmet Question

Reading Ten Years on Two Wheels I liked the idea of a full faced helmet with
hinged faceshield  like Helge had on his trip.  My current helmet needs to
be replaced and I was wondering if anybody knew which companies made such
helmets, what the model numbers might be and any experiences with them.
They seem really convenient.

Cheers,

Vik

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 15:35:15 -0500
From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Helmet Question

- -----Original Message-----
From: Vikram Banerjee <[e-mail]>
To: KLR650-List <[e-mail]>
Date: Sunday, February 21, 1999 3:09 PM
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Helmet Question


>Reading Ten Years on Two Wheels I liked the idea of a full faced helmet
with
>hinged faceshield  like Helge had on his trip.  My current helmet needs to
>be replaced and I was wondering if anybody knew which companies made such
>helmets, what the model numbers might be and any experiences with them.
>They seem really convenient.


Although I think that Helge had the BMW System 2 or 3 helmet (not sold in
USA),
there are several other similar helmets available.  Two that are readily
available
are the Shoei Duotech and the Nolan N100.  Many dealers carry these helments
as well as mailorder sources.  It is useful to try the helmets on for proper
sizing.  I purchased one each of these helmets when my other two full face
helmets were stolen this past summer.

Below is a repeat of comments offered on these helmets to the BMW GS
list.

I have both the Shoei Duotech and the Nolan flip-up (N100, I think).
The Duotech is the second one that I have owned.  The latest version
has been somewhat changed since the original version.  The original
Duotech had snap out ear pads, that could be replaced with thicker
ones in an attempt to reduce wind noise.  I found the thicker ear pads
to be uncomfortable and stayed with the smaller pads.  The newer
Duotech had the thicker ear pads, but they were integral with the
rest of the helmet liner, i.e. not removable.  The thick ear pads made
my ears burn and were very uncomfortable.  I "modified" the ear pads
by removing some of the foam in the area of the ears.  Now it is much
more comfortable.  Both the original and newer Duotech helmets generate
a lot of wind noise and I always use earplugs.  I use the foam rubber
type rated at -33 dB.

The Nolan flip-up helmet was much less expensive than the Duotech,
about $200 from Re-Psycle versus $370 for the Duotech from
Competition Accessories.  I found that the Nolan also generated a
good deal of wind noise, just at a different frequency than the Duotech.
I continue to wear earplugs.  The Nolan became uncomfortable after
about one hour.  The EPS (like styrofoam) liner was pressing excessively
into my forehead.  I took my thumb and slightly depressed the EPS
in the region of discomfort.  Now the helmet is comfortable for an all
day ride.

The Duotech helmet uses the conventional double D-ring and strap type
of means of fastening the helmet to one's head.  The Nolan helmet uses
a tongue and buckle (like an automotive seat-belt) type fastener.  Both
types work well, but the Nolan is less likely to get caught on the velcro
neck piece of my Aerostich suit.

The Duotech has less venting and gets warmer than the Nolan.  The Nolan
comes with inserts for the chin and nose (to prevent shield fogging), but
I find that too much cold air enters the mouth piece (even while closed)
on the Nolan.  Thus the Duotech is my winter helmet and the Nolan is my
summer helmet.

>        How useful do you find the flip-up feature?
>
I wear glasses with the cable type temples (the ones that wrap around the
ear), thus I can not wear conventional full face helmets.  The flip-up
feature is essential for me if I am to wear more than a 3/4 helmet.

>        How easy is it to flip-up the helmet while in flight?
>
If you mean "how easy is it to raise the clear visor while riding", then I
can say that both the Duotech and Nolan are easy.  The Duotech visor
has a tab on the left side that allows the visor to be raised.  Notches
in the hinge allow the visor to be raised fully or incrementally.  I
like to go to the first notch in traffic to get a bit of fresh air,
particularly at stop lights.  The Nolan has a tab in the bottom
center of the visor with similar notches in the hinge.

If you truely mean raise the lower jaw piece of the helmet while riding,
then I don't know.  I would not advise attempting such an act while
riding.  It is a two handed affair to get either jaw piece raised.
The Duotech has two buttons,one on either side of the jaw, just
forward of the ear, that must be firmly depressed to release the
jaw piece.  Although I've seen folks ride with the jaw piece
raised, it's not my practice to do this.  The Nolan jaw piece is
raised by moving two small levers forward.  The levers are
located along the bottom of the jaw piece.  While it is easy to
lift the levers with the helmet on one's head, I find it
somewhat awkward to do so with the helmet off my head,
i.e. readying the helmet for wear.


Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 13:50:39 -0700
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Helmet Question

|Reading Ten Years on Two Wheels I liked the idea of a full faced helmet with
|hinged faceshield  like Helge had on his trip.  My current helmet needs to
|be replaced and I was wondering if anybody knew which companies made such
|helmets, what the model numbers might be and any experiences with them.
|They seem really convenient.
|
|Cheers,
|
|Vik
|
|
Rob has mentioned the Shoei and Nolan (by far the cheapest) here is the BMW System 4:

http://www.micapeak.com/bmw/gs/syst3.html

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Feb 99 13:36:37 PST
From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Helmet Question

Vik,

I use a Duotec made by Shoei. I choose it over the Nolan because of the =
clip on the Nolans. When I bent my head down to look at he speedo with =
the Nolan on, the clip mechanism dug into my neck. ( The Duo Tech costs =
more, but it seemed more comfortable to me.

I have not been in a downpour with it on, so I don't know if it leaks or =
not. Above 55mph the wind noise is loud enough that I wear ear plugs, but=
 I it does not seem to be any louder than the Nolan 100.

Alex

- ----------
> Reading Ten Years on Two Wheels I liked the idea of a full faced helmet=
 with
> hinged faceshield  like Helge had on his trip.  My current helmet needs=
 to
> be replaced and I was wondering if anybody knew which companies made =
such
> helmets, what the model numbers might be and any experiences with them.
> They seem really convenient.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Vik
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of klr650-digest V2 #54
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