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klr650-digest          Friday, June 19 1998          Volume 01 : Number 109




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 09:13:55 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight Reduction

In a message dated 98-06-19 00:14:27 EDT, [e-mail] writes:

<< but what about replacing the
 fuel bag with the plastic IMS item?  >>

Iknow this answer since I tested the IMS a year or so ago.  You save almost 5
pounds going to the IMS fuel tank.

Gino

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 09:18:08 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Progressive fork spring oil level

In a message dated 98-06-19 03:47:38 EDT, [e-mail] writes:

<< Or, was this
 noted, but 5.5 inches works better than 6.7 inches?  If the progressive
 spring displaces more oil than the stock spring, and the manual calls for
 6.7 inches originally, then the difference in oil volume between stock
 springs and level, and Progressive springs and 5.5 inches is quite a lot. >>

 I have the 5.5" level in my forks and they feel pretty good, maybe a bit on
the stiff side.  I think the answer is at least to 6.7" level but not more
than 5.5".  I will be installing the small progressive springs that replace
the preload spacer and will report on those in a week or so.

Gino

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 08:18:09 -0500
From: Jim Barthell <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dual Star notes...

Eric? didn't we meet in Lisle last year? Good to hear from you.

When I talked to Mike about this a while ago, I think he was talking about
changing the resonance characteristics of the bar not necessarily adding
weight. Also if the bar was going to rust the water would need to be
trapped in there at the time of installation. We talked about using a
hairdryer to blow dry air through the bars in very humid climates like
Dallas.

- --
Jim Barthell - TX

'97 'C-O-O-O-W'...asaki KiLleR 650
FSSNOC #2421




Eric Rhoads wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
> To: List KLR <[e-mail]>
> Date: Thursday, June 18, 1998 12:13 PM
> Subject: (klr650) Dual Star notes...
>
> >Contrary to one of our listers concerns, Mike says it is
> >impossible for rust to be an issue if you apply the sealant
> >to a dry bar. Said he has been using this method for 20 yrs
> >with great success.
> >
> <<<<<<<,, JUST one question....any idea how much weight this might add?
> ericR
> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 08:39:29 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Progressive fork spring oil level

On Fri, 19 Jun 1998 [e-mail] wrote:

>  I will be installing the small progressive springs that replace
> the preload spacer and will report on those in a week or so.
>
> Gino

Whats the scoop on these preload spacer springs, and how do they claim it
works?  I've never heard of these, but they sound pretty neat.

Carlos (can't wait a week)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 10:16:24 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Flaming Helmet Laws NKLR

In 2 messages dated 6/19/98, [e-mail] wrote:snips

>By the way, the link to the guy's site I was flaming is:
>>http://usff.com/hldl/hoax/0597snellvdot.html
>>Finally checked this guys site, and I have to say that he's nuts.
>>If you consider his position, he's against helmets and helmet
>>laws altogether................

 Jeff, first I would like to say for the record that I wear a DOT
 and Snell approved helmet. It's been awhile since I visited that
 site, but I remember that on one of his sites he specifically
 states that he is not opposed to helmets. He has a hard-on against
 society dictating that he must wear one, and perhaps overstates
 his reasons for this. While I choose to wear a helmet, it's my
 opinion that it, (along with many other paternal laws), should not
 be mandated by the State.

       CA Ron  (live free or die anyway;)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 11:43:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Don Kuhlman <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Mixing DOT3 and DOT4

At 11:23 AM 6/18/98 -0600, Pokluda, Gino F wrote:
>Okay all you brake and fluid dynamics experts, what are everyone's
>opinions about mixing DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids.  I usually do not, but
>a parts guy says you can.  He then presented a bottle of brake fluid that
>was labeled "DOT3 and 4, compatible in both systems" as evidence.  Hmmm.
> I only know for sure that DOT 5 cannot be mixed, but DOT3 and 4.....

DOT 3 and DOT 4 both glycol based and can be safely mixed.  DOT 4 has a
higher boiling point than DOT 3.  Therefore, if you mix DOT 3 with DOT 4,
you will lower the boiling point below DOT 4 levels.

Most DOT 5 is silicone based.  Silicone brake fluid should never be mixed
with glycol.  In fact, if changing from one to the other, the system should
be thoroughly flushed first.  Some manufacturers even recommend complete
disassembly and new seals and cups be installed.

There is also a DOT 5.1 that IS glycol based and can be safely mixed with
DOT 3 and 4, with the same caveat of a lowered the boiling point.  It can be
confusing at times.

In a nutshell, glycol based brake fluids are "hydroscopic" in that they
absorb moisture and hold it in suspension, and they will damage paint and
some plastics they come in contact with.  As the glycol brake fluid absorbs
moisture, it turns dark, indicating it should be changed.

Silicone brake fluid does not absorb moisture.  Any moisture in the system
will tend to settle to the lowest point.  This can often be the calipers
with the expected corrosive effects.  Silicone was the first brake fluid to
have the higher dry boiling point, but they now have glycol based formulas
(hence the DOT 5.1).  Also, silicone will not hurt paint, which makes it
popular with old car restorers.  It does tend to aerate easily, making it
harder to bleed properly.

The KLR recommendation is to use DOT 3 or 4, and change it every 1-2 years,
or more often if it becomes dark or contaminated.  Try to buy small
containers, and only unseal them when necessary.  Keep the lid on tightly
the rest of the time, and buy fresh fluid if more than 3 months old.

Don

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 12:40:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Don Kuhlman <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Progressive fork spring oil level

At 12:46 AM 6/19/98 -0700, Jeffrey L. Walker wrote:
>I read and understand the directions on the web, and those that came with
>the springs about the oil level.  Both the web and the directions say to
>measure the oil level at 5.5 inches from the top while the fork is
>compressed.  But the directions that came with the forks also mention that
>the oil level should be checked in accordance with the authorized shop
>manual.  According to my manual, the level should be at 170 +/- 2 mm.  This
>is roughly 6.7 inches from the top.
>
>Thus I submit that its possible that those of you who set the level at 5.5
>inches have too much oil in your forks, and your forks may be over-dampened.
>Is it possible that nobody noticed the discrepancy between Progressives
>suggested level of 5.5 " and the manual's oil level before?   Or, was this
>noted, but 5.5 inches works better than 6.7 inches?  If the progressive
>spring displaces more oil than the stock spring, and the manual calls for
>6.7 inches originally, then the difference in oil volume between stock
>springs and level, and Progressive springs and 5.5 inches is quite a lot.
>Another clue to me is the rather close tolerance for the level given by the
>manual, as +/- 2 mm, which isn't very much oil at all, suggesting that the
>level is rather critical.  Can somebody enlighten me please?
>
>Jeff

Yes, go back and read the articles I posted on suspension setup.  The amount
of fork oil has no effect on damping.  The viscosity does.  If you get too
much oil in the forks, you run the danger of hydraulically locking the forks,
with the possibility of blowing the fork seals out.

A higher level of oil will mean less air in the forks, giving a bit more
progressive air spring effect towards the end of the travel (bottoming).
We oftened used this last bit of suspension tuning on our dirt bikes,
regardless of any other modifications.

The other thing is to be sure to get the level the same in each side.

Don

P.S. Oh, and the term is "damped" as dampened usual refers to wetting something
as in "he dampened his trousers when his forks bottomed out prematurely..."

;-)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 09:57:06 -0700
From: [e-mail] (Christopher Beasley)
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight Reduction

>
>Iknow this answer since I tested the IMS a year or so ago.  You save almost 5
>pounds going to the IMS fuel tank.
>
>Gino
>

How much does the IMS tank hold?
b
Christopher J. Beasley
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 11:02:31 -0700
From: "Eric Rhoads" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight Reduction

- -----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Beasley <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>
Date: Friday, June 19, 1998 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight Reduction


>>
>>Iknow this answer since I tested the IMS a year or so ago.  You save
almost 5
>>pounds going to the IMS fuel tank.
>>
>>Gino
>>
>
>How much does the IMS tank hold?
>b
>Christopher J. Beasley
>[e-mail]
>
>@@@     Well, if it holds 5.1 gallons, you've got double your weight
savings right there.   But what's the point?    I don't know what you're
after here, but the weight is easier to handle if you just lower it, like
with lowering kit.
       This bike is no lightweight.     You want less weight, then get a
different machine, maybe build your own......
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 13:21:56 -0400
From: Bill Haycock <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR650 Valve adjustment article

To the LIST:

I have just posted a new article to the KLR Web Page.  "KLR650 Valve
Adjustment Procedure" article can be found on the "Technical Tips" page
of the KLR650 Dual Sport News web site.

http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page4.html

Bill Haycock

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 15:15:13 -0400
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) re: Mixing DOT3 and DOT4


   I have no idea as to the "why", but I read in "Performance Bike" (it's a
   Euro bike mag) not to mix brake fluid ratings.

   For what ever that's worth....
   Pat

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 13:40:40 -0600
From: Roy Cope <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dual Star notes...

>Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 13:04:54 -0600
>From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (klr650) Dual Star notes...
>
>Just got off the phone with Mike Walburn and here are some
>tidbits;
>
>1. For all who have been waiting for their
>centerstands...the wait is over, all orders will be in the
>mail by Friday and in your hands by the middle of next week.
>

Don't hold your breath!  I  won't  believe it  until I see it.   Mike's
numerous delays have turned me a cynic.   I have developed a genuine disgust
for the phrase, "not yet just a little longer".     I have been told Dual
Star makes a quality product, let's hope it was worth the wait.

Roy Cope  96KLR

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 16:00:21 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 Valve adjustment article

In a message dated 98-06-19, [e-mail] writes:snip

> I have just posted a new article to the KLR Web Page.
>"KLR650 Valve Adjustment Procedure"....

 Thanks for another good one. I just did this last night following
 Eldon Carl's excellent advice from the KLR Newsletter. I skipped
 the suggestion to remove the upper engine bracket and had no
 problem removing the cover on my '96. Maybe if I'd replaced shims
 it would be preferrable.

 FYI, at 6000 miles my clearances were
 LI .006"    (spec=.004"-.008")
 RI .006"
 LE .007"   (spec=.006"-.010")
 RE .008"

 CA Ron (slippin' it in)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 16:41:07 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight Reduction

In a message dated 98-06-19, [e-mail] writes: snip

> KLR listers-  I'm curious as to how much weight can be shaven off
>"the best dual-sport machine ever made" within reason.....

 Darrel, besides regulating my burger intake, and the items you
 and Kurt pointed out, I like lister Chris Beasley's idea of helium
 in the tires. (How often would we need to fill 'em up Chris ? ;-)

 I'm not sure how reasonable this is for some, but Mansson
 Technologies in the Bay Area makes titanium and aluminum
 motorcycle parts. You can buy individual screws, bolts, etc.,
 or they have complete kits for some bikes starting at $2800 and
 going up to $6000. Best be patient, as I'm sure most of it is
 custom production runs. To get their catalog email 'em at
 [e-mail] .

     CA Ron  (who is skinny compared to a klr)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 14:34:34 -0700
From: [e-mail] (Christopher Beasley)
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight Reduction

At 04:41 PM 6/19/98 EDT, [e-mail] wrote:
>In a message dated 98-06-19, [e-mail] writes: snip
>
>> KLR listers-  I'm curious as to how much weight can be shaven off
>>"the best dual-sport machine ever made" within reason.....
>
> Darrel, besides regulating my burger intake, and the items you
> and Kurt pointed out, I like lister Chris Beasley's idea of helium
> in the tires. (How often would we need to fill 'em up Chris ? ;-)

You'd probably have to fill the tyres about three times as often as you do
now.  Or you could get the thorn proof tubes and it would probably break
even.  Of course, if a bunch of listers do this I could make some custom
tubes that have a mylar liner.  This would stay full for a long time. :)

>
> I'm not sure how reasonable this is for some, but Mansson
> Technologies in the Bay Area makes titanium and aluminum
> motorcycle parts. You can buy individual screws, bolts, etc.,
> or they have complete kits for some bikes starting at $2800 and
> going up to $6000. Best be patient, as I'm sure most of it is
> custom production runs. To get their catalog email 'em at
> [e-mail] .

Hmmm, :)

>
>     CA Ron  (who is skinny compared to a klr)
>

CA Chris ( who weighs more than 1/2 as much as a KLR :( )
Christopher J. Beasley
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 15:46:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rex Hefferan <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Thumper List Humor

(Part of a thread found while lurking the Thumper List, I thought I
would pass this along. Regarding a post about Web based Mapping sites
for planning cross country trips. Enjoy!)
Rex '93 KLR650


Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 07:26:17 -0400
From: "James Ray Crenshaw" <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: map planning url?
Message-ID: <000001bd9ab3$3228cc80$0027590a@rayman>

>.. Now, a *real* thumper triptix system would automatically plot
dual->purpose bike routes



Yeah, and it would also choose only roads whose speed limits
correspended to that NARROW range that doesn't shake your fillings out.

Well, they COULD code it that way...

"SR-500 riders should take state road 34 to Stumpwater, Iowa... then
turn left onto hwy 10. KLX 650 owners can turn left into the freshly
plowed field and ride a heading of 261.5 degrees for 47.5 miles across
Homey Swartzentruber's corn field."

Things you're waiting for a mapping program to say...

Ray Crenshaw in SC






_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 18:50:12 -0400
From: "Rick Clarke" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Brake Pad Upgrade?

Dave S. writes:
> Steel-braided teflon lines do no provide greater pad pressure than rubber
> lines unless they're so soft that your lever touches the grip.

My '89 KLR 650 front brake lever touches the grip without locking the
front wheel. The system is well bled (no air) with Castrol LMA fluid.
The oem line has gotten worse with age. In order to get higher
pressure, I'm going to a braided stainless line.

- -Rick

R.P.Clarke ([e-mail])
"What traffic?"
RTP, NC, USA    DoD#5811

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 19:06:02 -0400
From: "Rick Clarke" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Clunk

Carlos wrote:
> My bike has a loud 1-2 shift, but I think it is more crunchy than loud.
> When I shift, I can sometimes feel the gears meshing and need to force it
> in a little more than the other shifts.  Sometimes it likes to pop out of
> second gear when the engine is under load.  It is kind of annoying, as it
> the bike didn't seem to be doing this 5,000 miles ago (out of 13,500
> total).  I'm not sure if this is due to wear, or if it is due to some sort
> of out of adjustment problem.  If anyone knows, please let us know!

You may have worn dogs on your second gear. When shifting, sometimes
gears will not fully engage. Applying a load will cause the gears to
disengage, rounding off the leading edge of the dogs. Do this enough
times and the dogs will be worn enough that they will refuse to stay
engaged, even under light loads.

To prevent this from happening make sure the gears are fully engaged
on each shift. After you've ridden a bike for a while it's easy to
feel if the shift is partial or complete. Maintaining pressure on the
shift lever while releasing the clutch lever during upshifts will
force partially engaged dogs to fully engage. This will eliminate the
tendency to pop out of gear if the gearbox is still in good shape.

- -Rick

R.P.Clarke ([e-mail])
"What traffic?"
RTP, NC, USA    DoD#5811

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 16:18:45 -0700
From: [e-mail] (Christopher Beasley)
Subject: Re: (klr650) Clunk

At 07:06 PM 6/19/98 -0400, Rick Clarke wrote:
>Carlos wrote:
>> My bike has a loud 1-2 shift, but I think it is more crunchy than loud.
>> When I shift, I can sometimes feel the gears meshing and need to force it
>> in a little more than the other shifts.  Sometimes it likes to pop out of
>> second gear when the engine is under load.  It is kind of annoying, as it
>> the bike didn't seem to be doing this 5,000 miles ago (out of 13,500
>> total).  I'm not sure if this is due to wear, or if it is due to some sort
>> of out of adjustment problem.  If anyone knows, please let us know!
>
>You may have worn dogs on your second gear. When shifting, sometimes
>gears will not fully engage. Applying a load will cause the gears to
>disengage, rounding off the leading edge of the dogs. Do this enough
>times and the dogs will be worn enough that they will refuse to stay
>engaged, even under light loads.
>
>To prevent this from happening make sure the gears are fully engaged
>on each shift. After you've ridden a bike for a while it's easy to
>feel if the shift is partial or complete. Maintaining pressure on the
>shift lever while releasing the clutch lever during upshifts will
>force partially engaged dogs to fully engage. This will eliminate the
>tendency to pop out of gear if the gearbox is still in good shape.
>

If you have to get the gear replaced due to worn dogs, go to a good MC
performance transmission machinist (I have a good one here in Oakland), and
get the dogs "undercut".  This means that the machinist applies a slight
taper to the dogs so that when they engage, the tapers match like a
"dovetail" arrangement and incompletely engaged dogs will pull each other
into full engagement.

Several new MC transmissions have this feature from the factory.
My '84 900 Ninja had it on the upper gears.

Cheers!
Christopher J. Beasley
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 21:04:12 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Pelican cases

Has anyone got experience with the Pelican cases and more importantly the
mounts that they are said to make for the KLR. Do the cases come off the
mounts ?  How are the cases attached to the mounts ? Any info appreciated.
Steve Prescott

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 21:04:35 -0400
From: "Michael Magnatta" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) TEST

klr650 TEST

- -----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Beasley <[e-mail]>
To: Rick Clarke <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>
Date: Friday, June 19, 1998 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: (klr650) Clunk


At 07:06 PM 6/19/98 -0400, Rick Clarke wrote:
>Carlos wrote:
>> My bike has a loud 1-2 shift, but I think it is more crunchy than
loud.
>> When I shift, I can sometimes feel the gears meshing and need to
force it
>> in a little more than the other shifts.  Sometimes it likes to pop
out of
>> second gear when the engine is under load.  It is kind of annoying,
as it
>> the bike didn't seem to be doing this 5,000 miles ago (out of 13,500
>> total).  I'm not sure if this is due to wear, or if it is due to some
sort
>> of out of adjustment problem.  If anyone knows, please let us know!
>
>You may have worn dogs on your second gear. When shifting, sometimes
>gears will not fully engage. Applying a load will cause the gears to
>disengage, rounding off the leading edge of the dogs. Do this enough
>times and the dogs will be worn enough that they will refuse to stay
>engaged, even under light loads.
>
>To prevent this from happening make sure the gears are fully engaged
>on each shift. After you've ridden a bike for a while it's easy to
>feel if the shift is partial or complete. Maintaining pressure on the
>shift lever while releasing the clutch lever during upshifts will
>force partially engaged dogs to fully engage. This will eliminate the
>tendency to pop out of gear if the gearbox is still in good shape.
>

If you have to get the gear replaced due to worn dogs, go to a good MC
performance transmission machinist (I have a good one here in Oakland),
and
get the dogs "undercut".  This means that the machinist applies a slight
taper to the dogs so that when they engage, the tapers match like a
"dovetail" arrangement and incompletely engaged dogs will pull each
other
into full engagement.

Several new MC transmissions have this feature from the factory.
My '84 900 Ninja had it on the upper gears.

Cheers!
Christopher J. Beasley
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 21:33:43 -0400
From: "Michael Magnatta" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fork Boot Replacement - A Desperate Plea...

Guys:

I just removed my front wheel so I could install the new fork boots I
got from Fred at Arrowhead and... There's no way they are going to slip
over the bottom of the fork, especially the top part of the boot. It
looks like the bottom of the fork leg MUST be removed for this job to
get done! Is this correct? If it is, how difficult is it to remove the
bottom of the slider?

Am I missing something?!? Please Help Me!!!

Thank you.

Mike Magnatta

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 21:35:41 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re:  (klr650) Pelican cases

In a message dated 6/19/98 6:06:36 PM, [e-mail] wrote:

>Has anyone got experience with the Pelican cases and more importantly the
>mounts that they are said to make for the KLR. Do the cases come off the
>mounts ?  How are the cases attached to the mounts ? Any info appreciated.
>Steve Prescott

 Steve, the following is a post from Kurt on the archives:
<A HREF="http://www.xmission.com/~dkenison/cgi/lwgate.cgi/KLR650/archives/">
KLR650 Archives</A>
http://www.xmission.com/~dkenison/cgi/lwgate.cgi/KLR650/archives/

   CA Ron
===========
At 09:46 PM 5/7/1998 -0500, you wrote:
>I keep seeing references to the  pelican cases. I was wondering which
>model works best for a tail trunk. The pelicans seem cheaper ( at
>$85-100) than the Givis. Are holes drilled througth the case into the
>rack for mounting, or is there a bracket. I will be carrying photo gear
>and film in the hard case, and everything else in soft cases. The
>pelican numbers I am considering are the 1450,1500,1520.  If there are
>some pics somwhere, that would be helpful too.  Thanks,   Ryan

I am on the phone with Jake Jakeman as I am writing. Jake uses the 1500's
but if he had it to do over again he would do 1520's. He has a plate
available that mounts to the top of the luggage rack, it has a hole for the
tool bag and suspends 2 on the side and one on top. He recommends the two
side cases and using a duffel on top instead. Call him for more info at
435-387-5575. He has a 4 page instruction sheet w/drawings for mounting the
pelican cases available for faxing for you and anyone who wants it. I told
him your name in case you call. BTW, he has a place for 1500's for below $60.

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 22:07:42 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re:  (klr650) Fork Boot Replacement - A Desperate Plea...

In a message dated 6/19/98, [e-mail] wrote:snip

>.....There's no way they are going to slip over the bottom
>of the fork, especially the top part of the boot....

   Michael, here's Tom's reply from the 5/30 archives:

   CA Ron  (shhhhhh.......the klr librarian  B-/)

>Anyone on the list knowledgeable about changing fork gators? Tips,
>hints, tricks, ...? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.

    Sure. Drop the forks off of the bike and dissasemble
them. This is a good thing to do in conjunction with
instaling progressive springs and changing the fork
oil.


- -Tom
'96 KLR 650

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 22:57:07 -0400
From: "Michael Magnatta" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fork Boot Replacement - A Desperate Plea...

Ron:

THANKS:

Ok, another bright question: To disassemble them, Tom says to drop them
from the bike. Does this mean undoing the allen socket on the bottom of
each fork leg, or does this mean actually removing the entire fork via
the triple clamp?

Please say just the allen bolt. Please?

Mike



- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>;
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Friday, June 19, 1998 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fork Boot Replacement - A Desperate Plea...


In a message dated 6/19/98, [e-mail] wrote:snip

>.....There's no way they are going to slip over the bottom
>of the fork, especially the top part of the boot....

   Michael, here's Tom's reply from the 5/30 archives:

   CA Ron  (shhhhhh.......the klr librarian  B-/)

>Anyone on the list knowledgeable about changing fork gators? Tips,
>hints, tricks, ...? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.

Sure. Drop the forks off of the bike and dissasemble
them. This is a good thing to do in conjunction with
instaling progressive springs and changing the fork
oil.


- -Tom
'96 KLR 650

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 23:26:51 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Fwd: (klr650) Dual Star notes...

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I'm afraid I agree with you Roy.  I ordered my stand at least one month before
the Moab Rallye.

Walter

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Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 13:40:40 -0600
To: [e-mail]
From: Roy Cope <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dual Star notes...
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>Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 13:04:54 -0600
>From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (klr650) Dual Star notes...
>
>Just got off the phone with Mike Walburn and here are some
>tidbits;
>
>1. For all who have been waiting for their
>centerstands...the wait is over, all orders will be in the
>mail by Friday and in your hands by the middle of next week.
>

Don't hold your breath!  I  won't  believe it  until I see it.   Mike's
numerous delays have turned me a cynic.   I have developed a genuine disgust
for the phrase, "not yet just a little longer".     I have been told Dual
Star makes a quality product, let's hope it was worth the wait.

Roy Cope  96KLR



- --part0_898313212_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 20:39:45 -0700
From: "Jeffrey L. Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fork Boot Replacement - A Desperate Plea...

>I just removed my front wheel so I could install the new fork boots I
>got from Fred at Arrowhead and... There's no way they are going to slip
>over the bottom of the fork, especially the top part of the boot. It
>looks like the bottom of the fork leg MUST be removed for this job to
>get done! Is this correct? If it is, how difficult is it to remove the
>bottom of the slider?
>
>Am I missing something?!? Please Help Me!!!


I just did this last night, in addition to adding progressive springs.  To
do the job, you have to remove the forks.  I propped my bike on my trusty
milk crate, with a 2 x 4 on top of the crate, under the bikes frame as far
forward as I could get it, before the frame curves upward.  This raises the
front wheel about three inches off of the ground.  I then removed the front
wheel.  Before you remove the fork tubes from the steering head clamps, make
sure to loosen the top cap, as gripping the fork tube once its off is
impossible.  You then loosen the eight 12 mm bolts that hold the fork tubes
in place and slide them out the bottom.  The boots slide off of the top, and
the new ones slide on the same way, easy as can be.  Be sure to take this
opportunity to change your fork oil and get the level right, if all you
planned on doing was the boots.  Fork oil is cheap, and an ounce of
prevention.... You should also take the opportunity to clean any gunk off of
the fork oil seal, and inspect them to see if they leak or not.

The hardest part of the job is propping the bike up on the milk crate.  I
had to have my wife slide the crate and board under, while I lifted the bike
from the back end.  The cool thing I discovered is that if the board is
positioned right, its easy to rock the bike slightly forward, and place the
"budget swing arm stands" under the swing arms and get the bike off of both
tires.  What can I say to you pro mechanics out there with the bike stands
and hoists, I'm cheap.

By the way, put 50 miles on the new springs today, and I really like them.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 23:49:10 -0400
From: "Michael Magnatta" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Thank You!!!

Jeffrey:

You are a Godsend! I really appreciate the time you took to provide such
a thorough explanation.

Is there anything special I should know about the oil, like brand,
availability, amount? My budget right now precludes anything except the
oil.

Thanks so much again!!!

Mike Magnatta


- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey L. Walker <[e-mail]>
To: Michael Magnatta <[e-mail]>; KLR650
<[e-mail]>
Date: Friday, June 19, 1998 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fork Boot Replacement - A Desperate Plea...


>I just removed my front wheel so I could install the new fork boots I
>got from Fred at Arrowhead and... There's no way they are going to slip
>over the bottom of the fork, especially the top part of the boot. It
>looks like the bottom of the fork leg MUST be removed for this job to
>get done! Is this correct? If it is, how difficult is it to remove the
>bottom of the slider?
>
>Am I missing something?!? Please Help Me!!!


I just did this last night, in addition to adding progressive springs.
To
do the job, you have to remove the forks.  I propped my bike on my
trusty
milk crate, with a 2 x 4 on top of the crate, under the bikes frame as
far
forward as I could get it, before the frame curves upward.  This raises
the
front wheel about three inches off of the ground.  I then removed the
front
wheel.  Before you remove the fork tubes from the steering head clamps,
make
sure to loosen the top cap, as gripping the fork tube once its off is
impossible.  You then loosen the eight 12 mm bolts that hold the fork
tubes
in place and slide them out the bottom.  The boots slide off of the top,
and
the new ones slide on the same way, easy as can be.  Be sure to take
this
opportunity to change your fork oil and get the level right, if all you
planned on doing was the boots.  Fork oil is cheap, and an ounce of
prevention.... You should also take the opportunity to clean any gunk
off of
the fork oil seal, and inspect them to see if they leak or not.

The hardest part of the job is propping the bike up on the milk crate.
I
had to have my wife slide the crate and board under, while I lifted the
bike
from the back end.  The cool thing I discovered is that if the board is
positioned right, its easy to rock the bike slightly forward, and place
the
"budget swing arm stands" under the swing arms and get the bike off of
both
tires.  What can I say to you pro mechanics out there with the bike
stands
and hoists, I'm cheap.

By the way, put 50 miles on the new springs today, and I really like
them.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 22:26:39 -0600
From: Skip Faulkner <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) Snell vs DOT

Jeff and Listers,
 I read the referenced material also and have to agree the guy is a
LITTLE partial in his review, well, maybe a hell of a lot. But Snell
obviously is also,not to say they aren`t right either.
  Here in Montana we have neither speed limits outside of municipalities
or helmet laws. I also strongly support these freedoms we have and as a
state, voted for. I also personally think anyone who does not wear a
helmet is an idiot, but I also believe anyone has the Right to be an
idiot as long as it doesn`t infringe on anyone elses rights. No one
should have the right to dictate what is `best` for me as long as I am a
of age adult and my decision would not directly affect someone else. It
is positively and without question, nobody`s business if I choose to
wear a helmet or not.
  Just a little factiod: the first year Montana went back to no speed
limits, our death toll for the year was down 36 fatalities. Since then
they have been around 10 to 15 above average and the increases have been
traced to non-residents who are not familiar with the roads or driving
conditions they incountered (ice and snow or curvy mountain roads). The
death toll average for residents has continued to be below normal.
 Just remember listers, the odds of you being seriously injured or
suffering a fatality in a motorcycle crash are considerably higher and
even likely if you aren`t wearing a helmet,but it should be your
decision and nobody elses.
  Just my personal opinion,please respect it as I respect yours.

- -----Skip--who wears a helmet especially when sneaking in late at night-

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Jun 1998 00:47:25 -0700
From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fork Boot Replacement - A Desperate Plea...

At 10:57 PM 6/19/98 -0400, Michael Magnatta wrote:
>Ron:
>
>THANKS:
>
>Ok, another bright question: To disassemble them, Tom says to drop them
>from the bike. Does this mean undoing the allen socket on the bottom of
>each fork leg, or does this mean actually removing the entire fork via
>the triple clamp?
>
>Please say just the allen bolt. Please?


    Tom here (the non-archived version  :)


    I just dropped them by removing the whole fork assemblys.
Dont get all upset: after removing the speedo drive and brake
caliper, you just remove the front wheel and the four triple
clamp bolts and they come right off in your hands. Its realy
a pretty simple operation, not nearly has hard as servicing
the rear suspention. I need to change my frony tire out soon
and replace the fork oil (going to 15 wt. this time : want a
little more dampening. and I intend to do the same this time
as well.

    Now, I *do* have access to a Handy-Lift and this does
make suspending the front end a bit easier, but it still isnt
that big a deal.


- -Tom
'96 KLR 650


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 22:59:16 -0600
From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Thank You!!!

Michael Magnatta wrote:
>
> Jeffrey:
>
> You are a Godsend! I really appreciate the time you took to provide such
> a thorough explanation.
>
> Is there anything special I should know about the oil, like brand,
> availability, amount? My budget right now precludes anything except the
> oil.
>
> Thanks so much again!!!
>
> Mike Magnatta

Mike, I just went out to the shop and retrieved what is left
of the fresh bottle of Bel Ray High Performance Fork Oil I
used (10W). It is a 1 liter bottle and I have about 140 ml
left, that comes to about 12 ounces per fork. I followed the
directions off the web page, draining the oil from the
bottom drain screw, squishing the forks repeatedly until
they were relatively dry and then refilled to (I don't have
my notes, manuals or archives but)...within 7 1/2 inches
from the top of the extended fork. Gino runs his at 5 1/2
the maximum recommended by Progressive so take your pick.

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 22:58:34 -0600
From: Skip Faulkner <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR sprocket

Listers,
  I`m sure my following question has been addressed previously in the
list but I either missed it or it was previous to me joining the list so
please forgive me.
 What sprocket size (primary or driven)is recomended for the KLR650 to
get a little rpm reduction at hiway speeds without sacrificing anymore
torque than I have to ?   Thanks

- -------------Skip--(what would increase my `personal` torque)-----------

------------------------------

End of klr650-digest V1 #109
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