ftp.xmission.com/2014.06.ftp.xmission.com.tar/ftp.xmission.com/pub/lists/klr650/archive/v01.n095

Internet Message Format | 1998-06-02 | 40KB

From: [e-mail] (klr650-digest)
To: [e-mail]
Subject: klr650-digest V1 #95
Reply-To: klr650
Sender: [e-mail]
Errors-To: [e-mail]
Precedence: bulk


klr650-digest          Tuesday, June 2 1998          Volume 01 : Number 095




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 19:37:57 -0500
From: Ken Belfatto <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Super Cycle Classic

Hi all.
I'm headed to Road America Race track in Elkhart Lake, WI.
Super Cycle Classic is June 12,13,&14.
Great Motorcycle races.
Anyone in the Midwest that wants to commute
Write me at [e-mail]
Leaving from Crystal Lake, IL (group of 6 so far) on 6/13
You can ride your dual sport thru the trails around the track.

Burn em up

Kenny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 10:40:36 +1000
From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) AIR

Blair Young wrote:

> Ted Palmer wrote:
> >
> > All increasing the oil height and decresing the air volome will do is
> > increase the pressure rise of the air already in the forks.

> Isn't that what we are aiming for? By decreasing the available air
> volume, doesn't that cause the fork to feel stiffer more quickly?  I'm
> no engineer but I think it would work.

Short answer is "Yes indeedy".
I guess it comes down to how the seals will take to the idea, but as
long as we don't go way over factory specs, the seals should handle it.

I believe Fournales (from France) make (made?) forks that solely rely
on air for springing, but these are pretty rare and pricey. Even the
Fournales air-sprung rear shocks are costly and hence rare, but are
supposed to have a devoted following.

Tuning bike forks is a bit trickier than car suspension because of the
trapped-air pressure effects.
I depends on the specific problem you are trying to tune out.
If the suspension is bottoming but you like the ride over the smaller
bumps, you could try a bit more oil height to increase the pressure
rise at full bump travel.
Then again, one of the multi-rate springs could do a similar job (for
more money of course) at standard oil height.

If you want to stiffen it up a bit, and raise the ride height, you
could try a few psi in each fork with standard oil height.
This is the easiest, and about the only external change you can make.
Or you could increase the preload a bit with a washer or two in each
fork leg, but don't go too far or the coils might bind.
Raising the ride height will then give you less rebound travel...

(In idle moments, I've wondered whether a fork assembly off something
like a KX500 MXer would bolt onto a KLR. Should be enough adjustabilty
to keep most people fiddling)

Now, damping is another story.
Maybe just changing the damping with a different grade of oil might
change manners to your liking, but that changes the damping on both
bump and rebound.
How do you know if your damping is right? Without datalogging gizmos,
you have to go by feel.
How does "right" feel? There could be a whole book on this.
There are some good books around on car suspension tuning, but I've
never seen any for bikes :-/

For something as simple looking as a fork assembly, tuning one can
be a real head-scratcher.

Mister_T
- --
   \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
   |   RC17   KLR600    Roces BCN    FreeBSD 2.2.5-R    NT4W (ugh)   |
   |           tedp[at]replicant[dot]apana[dot]org[dot]au            |
  \|_________________________________________________________________|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 20:19:13 -0500
From: "F. Michael Hilton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR 650 FOR SALE/PRICE CHANGE

> FOR SALE by owner:
> 1998 KLR 650 KAWASAKI with 800 miles, $4,300.00 (Cycle only). Following accessories:
> Givi bags(E35) w/mounts,$420.00;  Givi top rack mount,$50.00; Corbin seat,$180.00(with OEM seat trade) Acrebis low
> front fender w/mounting hardware,$30.00
> completed dealer 600 mile service 6/1/98.
> See photos: http://www.bayou.com/rustonmarshal/downloads/  Select any of
> the "klr" photo's for front rear, sides and bags views.
> Selling price:$4,900.00, all accessories included. Call Mike @ 318-251-0454 after 5PM Central time,
> Louisiana
- --

1992 R100 GS          1998 KLR 650
"EL CHIVO ROJO"          "WUNDERLUST"
THE RED GOAT

Mike HILTON
>RUSTON, LA
>[e-mail]
Work URL:
http://www.bayou.com/rustonmarshal
>MSF INSTRUCTOR #85229
>MOA #57447, RA #18953, ABC #2067

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 21:44:20 -0400
From: "Rick Clarke" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil consumption

> BTW, my trip over Memorial Day weekend was to the motorcycle mecca of Deal's Gap, NC (with the mountain road that has
> something like 300 curves in 11 miles of road) near the Great Smokey Mountain National Park. Out of the hundreds of bikes I
> saw there I was the only dual sporter. I got a lot of funny looks.

Great Road. Lot's of cops usually on holiday weekends. See any?

The KLR should be a wonderful bike to run the Gap on. I've never had
my KLR to DG, always opting for the sport bike instead. The road is
so tight, it should be easy to keep up with inexperienced
sportbikers, which DG attracts in droves.

Did you run Thunder Road while you were there?

How about back roads? Any good unimproved roads you can recommend in
that area?

- -Rick


R.P.Clarke ([e-mail])
"What traffic?"
RTP, NC, USA    DoD#5811

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 21:54:32 -0400
From: "Rick Clarke" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Clutch Switch

One of these days I need to figure out what the previous owner did to
my '89. There are no wires running to the clutch lever anymore.
The cable is missing to the sidestand, but the wires to the switch
haven't been cut and spliced. The bike will start in any gear with
the clutch in or out (obviously). The bike will still start in any
gear even if I disconnect the sidestand switch and leave the
connector open.

I've never had trouble with the electrics. I suppose it'd be nice to
know the mods if I ever did. Somewhere the logic on this bike has
been altered. Any guesses where?

- -Rick

R.P.Clarke ([e-mail])
"What traffic?"
RTP, NC, USA    DoD#5811

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 22:02:41 -0400
From: "Rick Clarke" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tires

> Can anyone tell me if a set of Avon Gripsters (tubeless) will work on my 96
> KLR650 rims if I put tubes in?

I've got a tubeless on the rear wheel and it has worked fine. I'm not
sure what the difference is between the two. I ordered a tube type
and was sent a tubeless by mistake. The tubeless costs a few bucks
more.

Putting a tube in a tubeless tire probably generates a little extra
heat. I guess this can reduce the tire life a little bit and maybe
reduce the speed rating also. Perhaps the only difference between the
two is the tubeless has a higher speed rating stamped on it. :-)

- -Rick


R.P.Clarke ([e-mail])
"What traffic?"
RTP, NC, USA    DoD#5811

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 22:46:12 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cobra exhaust

Marick,  My personal experience with the Cobra ISDN exhaust pipe consists of
approximately 3000 miles on my '93 KLX650C before it was flattened while
parked in a roadside rest along the Natchez Trace.  My second bike, a '95
KLX650C, has about 1000 miles on the Cobra pipe.  So far I have absolutely no
complaints.  The rear outlet plate is retained by a large Circlip.  I imagine
that if you had circlip pliers of sufficient size, a repack job would not be
all that difficult.  The tone is 'awsome'.  Also, the Cobra is 100% American
made, which means a lot to me.
     Glad you told me about the KLX list.  I'll get my address on it;  Thanks.
Good luck in your search for a pipe.  Catch you later,   Wayne   Middle
Tennessee KLX650C.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 22:50:15 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cobra exhaust

Marick,   PS  The size of the KLX tank is just right for me.  When I burn out
a full tank of 92 octane, I'm just about done for the day anyway (read butt
beginning to ache!).  The KLX is already heavy enough.   Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 22:53:34 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tires..Gripster or others

Eric,  Check the new Dunlop D604.  It replaces the Trail Max Series.  Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 22:26:31 -0500
From: Chadd Thompson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cobra exhaust

At 10:46 PM 6/1/98 EDT, you wrote:
  Also, the Cobra is 100% American
>made, which means a lot to me.

   Wayne   Middle
>Tennessee KLX650C.
>
>

Wayne,

        Don't take this the wrong way but in case you didn't know the KLX is
a Japanese bike :O)

Just joking :O)


Thanks
Chadd Thompson
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 23:27:54 -0700
From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil consumption

At 12:11 PM 6/1/98 -0400, R. K. Dow wrote:
>I have a 1990 KLR 650 with about 10K miles. I have always changed my oil
at 1,000 miles or less and never had to add oil
>between changes.
>
>Recently I took the KLR on a 2,000 miles trip. The first 1,000 miles were
interstate 75 - 85 MPH cruising. I had to add 1/2
>quart of oil (level to the top of the sight glass) at 1,200 miles and the
oil level at 2,000 miles is right at the top mark.
>
>Does this sound like normal oil consumption?


    I covered about 1,350 miles the other week on my '96 w/ 2,500 on
it (now). I ran from central South Carolina up into West Virginia almost
exclusivly on secondary roads (after Greenville, SC at least, then did
a 350 mile, 6-hour blast down I-77 for the house. I used 'nary a drop
that I can detect.

    However, in the past I have gone on relativly short trips
and discovered that I was suddenly and inexplicably half a quart low.
Therefore, I would monitor consumption over a longer period before
I reached any conclusions.


- -Tom
'96 KLR 650

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 23:30:52 -0700
From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Clutch Switch

At 10:42 AM 6/1/98 -0700, Christopher Beasley wrote:
>I just put on a nice new emgo clutch lever (thanks Fred!) and the clutch
>switch problem went away too.  Go figure!


    Emgo makes levers for KLRs? Both sides?

    Please tell me yes. My current clutch lever came of of an
old Suzuki ini a junk yard. It fits, but could stand replacement.


- -Tom
'96 KLR 650
"The Frankenbike"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 23:36:02 -0700
From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tires..Gripster or others

At 06:58 PM 6/1/98 -0500, Steve Rottenberg wrote:

>    The 2nd set were Pirelli mt60's . OK tire. (90% street 10% dirt)
>but they were too noisy at high speeds, over 80/90 mph (Am I the only SOB
>thet runs his KLR at "high" (90/100mph) speeds like that ?)


    You may be one of the few that can. :) Mine hits the wall at about
85 or so, actual.


- -Tom
'96 KLR not-so-fast 650

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 00:12:34 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cobra exhaust

Chadd,  Life is made up of a lot of choices; some are easy, some are not!
Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 21:37:19 -0700
From: "Eric Rhoads" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Oil Level/Consumption

I've noticed a couple of posts regarding oil consumption that miss the issue
of proper orientation of the bike.   I have found it can make a *big*
difference  reading the sight glass if the bike is out of level.

Yeah, I know....just like me, you grab the rack handle and pull the bike
towards you until it balances....NOT good enough!   If the rear wheel is
lower than the front (doesn't take much!)  your level will appear low. And
if you fill to the top mark, you will be over-filled....and we all know what
that means.

The post from the guy who added 1/2 quart after 1200 miles and found his oil
level right at the top mark after another 800 miles illustrates my point.
(In fact he used 1/2 quart for the whole 2k miles trip.)

I would suggest....if you're not absolutely certain of the front/back level,
that you just try to get between the sight-glass lines....let's see,
hmmm...level surfaces would include my living room floor,  most pool
tables...the aisles in most grocery stores...the surface of Crater
Lake....heh heh.

good luck,
good riding,

eric...on a 96 with only 850 miles....and many more to go.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 01:08:59 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Bike for Sale

Saw an ad in the local paper.."1990 KLR 650 20,000 miles,  $1200.00 or best
offer"....Paper is the Oregonian out of Portland Oregon.......FYI.... Phone #
available if anyone is interested..........Todd    94 KLR.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 23:26:00 -0600
From: mollye faulkner <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fork air

I`m a newbe and have been reading for a couple of days and this fork
air thing keeps coming up. I`ve been riding 15 years and after modding
several bikes I still don`t have an opinion on it. I will offer one bit
of info, I`m an aircraft mechanic and the reason we use nitrogen in
tires and specifically aircraft oleo struts is because pure nitrogen has
vitually no moisture which would induce corrosion in the oleo strut
assembly and eventually cause failure and leakage. As far as the
statement that nitrogen is not as compressable as air is really
misinformation in that all gases are compressable and fluids aren`t and
if gases weren`t your shocks wouldn`t function.
   I own a 1995 KLR having given up a Honda NX650 for it. Also looked
over a BMW R100GS in favor of the KLR for various reasons but weight and
manueverability being the main factors.
  For you vertically challenged riders out there,don`t believe that crap
about the KLR being to tall. I`m 5`6 and have adapted to the bike after
a few changes and the bike is well worth the effort. I dropped the
front  2 inches down the fork tubes and had my local automotive
upholsterer scoop the front half of my seat out to look like a Corbin
Canyon seat which dropped it another 2 inches and for only $30 bucks and
it`s more comfortable than the Corbin I tried.
  I live in Northwest Montana, anybody in my area drop me a line and
lets go for a ride.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 22:52:37 -0700
From: [e-mail] (Francis Smith)
Subject: (klr650) American Made

Chadd, Wayne:

Nothing is sacred anymore.  Look at Harley
Davidson.  If you took the foreign made parts
of off it, you couldn't ride it!.

Jim - True American when it suits me.
'98 KLR
'98 GL 1500

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 00:46:16 -0700
From: "Jeffrey L. Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Great Spring Debate

This is really not true.  Nitrogen, being a gas, obeys the gas laws
(Avagadro's law, Boyle's law, Charles' law, etc.).  That is, all gasses
expand or contract in regards to the number of molecules present, and the
temperature and pressure.  Furthermore, approximately 1/3 of our atmospheric
gas is nitrogen, therefore air will behave almost identically as pure
nitrogen gas.  So I really don't see any advantage to using nitrogen gas
over air, not that any one would notice.  My understanding as to why shocks
are charged with nitrogen is that it is easier to purge water vapor from it,
therefore it will not contribute to oxidizing the internal mechanisms of the
shock.

Jeff

- -----Original Message-----
From: F. Michael Hilton <[e-mail]>
To: Darrel & Deanna <[e-mail]>
Cc: KLR list <[e-mail]>
Date: Saturday, May 30, 1998 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: (klr650) Great Spring Debate


>Darrel rather that using air why not consider using nitrogen.  Nitrogen
>will not expand or contact as much as air (this is my understanding, not
>scientific knowledge).
>
>Darrel & Deanna wrote:
>
>>
>> Althought I haven't tried adding air to the forks, I think that
>> experimenting with it would be a good idea as long as a low pressure pump
>> is used rather than compressed air.  Your fork seals will thank you!  A
>> little air just might give some anti-dive action to the squishy KLR
>> front-end.
>>                    Darrel
>
>--
>
>1992 R100 GS          1998 KLR 650
>"EL CHIVO ROJO"       "WUNDERLUST"
>THE RED GOAT
>
>Mike HILTON
>>RUSTON, LA
>>[e-mail]
>Work URL:
>http://www.bayou.com/rustonmarshal
>>MSF INSTRUCTOR #85229
>>MOA #57447, RA #18953, ABC #2067
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 01:04:58 -0700
From: "Jeffrey L. Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Shock

I think Jim is the guy who really loads his bike down with all his gear.  So
I can see how he really gives his rear spring a workout, even on the
highway.  I just hope he isn't exceeding the max load.  Anyway, if you put a
stiffer spring on your oem shock, make sure that the shock has adequate
dampening for it, or it might be pretty springy.....

Jeff

- -----Original Message-----
From: SAM DILLINGHAM <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Monday, June 01, 1998 1:24 AM
Subject: (klr650) KLR Shock


>Jim,
>I thought in some previous posts, you'd spoken of the suspension collapsing
>under load to such an extent that you would have to pull it up when you got
>off of the bike.  What I don't understand is why that would be the "shock".
>If the problem was that you lost all damping and the rear of the bike was
>like a pogo stick, I'd understand why the shock was the problem.  If the
>rear of the bike is fully compressed, it would seem that the spring wasn't
>strong enough to support all of the gear the bike was carrying, and the
>"shock" might or might not be adequate when matched to a strong enough
>spring.  Difficult to tell from the available data.
>
>I'm trying to figure this out because a new (after market) shock (w/spring)
>seems to go for  $400 on up and there's no guarantee the new spring would
be
>adequate.  Meanwhile, a local fabricator thinks he can put a stronger
spring
>on my exisitng OEM shock for <$100.  My shock hasn't failed yet, that is,
it
>isn't leaking, but the rear of the bike sure does "settle" (probably
because
>MY rear "settled" years ago!).  ;-)
>
>So...is it the spring?  the shock? or ?
>
>> Hmmm, hope your wrong. I found as the ambient temps get over 90
>> and I spend several hours droning along the interstate with a loaded down
>> bike the shock eventually fails and never recovers until things cool
down.
>So
>> far I am very  pleased with the Works shock. I loaded it up last weekend,
>it was
>> in the 90s. Spent about 7 hrs on the road and the shock was still in good
>> shape. I still haven't had it out for a 24hr test... pretty soon I hope.
>Jim Barthell - TX
>
>Thanks! -Sam Dillingham '97 KLR650
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 01:31:06 -0700
From: "Jeffrey L. Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) newbie

We had a similar saying in the Army, except we replaced "kiss" with "kick".

Jeff

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rick Bley <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Sunday, May 31, 1998 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: (klr650) newbie


>
>>TIA PHIL FERRY    Springfield Il
>>--
>> the toes you step on today may be connected to the ass you have to kiss
>>tomorrow
>>
>Phil,
>
>Can't help with your bag mounts, but in two years of reading e-mail
>signatures your line tops them all.
>
>How well I can relate to your astute observation of the human condition.
>
>Rick Bley, AHRMA # 90E/907, roadracer, MX and Trials
>rider. 1962 Honda CL72 Scrambler, 1972 CZ 125 MX,
>1973 CZ 250 MX, 1964 CZ Trials. BMWMOA/RA, AMA, VJMC.
>1974 BMW R90S, Hickory N.C. (50 miles NW of Charlotte).
>
>FOR SALE: 1964 and 65 CZ Trials bikes (two plus spares)
>           two 1972 CZ 125 MX'ers, 1973 400 MX
>             lots of CZ parts, frames, engine pieces, etc.
>
>WANTED: Honda CL72 stuff... CZ MX bikes and parts
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 01:51:22 -0700
From: "Jeffrey L. Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Wheels

Not to mention that you can re-true the rims with spoke wheels.

Jeff

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Magnatta <[e-mail]>
To: Robert Kaub <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>
Date: Monday, June 01, 1998 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: (klr650) Wheels


>Because of the nature of the klr's intended purpose - boppin' up and
>down on the trail and all those motocross type of adventures, spoked
>wheels can "give" a little, while alloy wheels would be WAY, WAY more
>prone to cracking/breaking - remember the old adage: if ya don't bend,
>ya break!!!
>
>Mike Magnatta
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert Kaub <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Monday, June 01, 1998 3:28 PM
>Subject: (klr650) Wheels
>
>
>Why hasn't anyone discussed or used alloy wheels (no spokes) on KLR's?
>Advantages of no tubes and no spoke tightening would seem to be worth
>while.
>Thanks.
>Bob Kaub
>SUNY Binghamton
>Watson School Student Shop
>PO Box 6000
>Binghamton, NY  13902
>607-777-2715
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 06:57:08 -0500
From: Jim Barthell <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tires..Gripster or others

Tom Simpson wrote:

> At 06:58 PM 6/1/98 -0500, Steve Rottenberg wrote:
>
> >       The 2nd set were Pirelli mt60's . OK tire. (90% street 10% dirt)
> >but they were too noisy at high speeds, over 80/90 mph (Am I the only SOB
> >thet runs his KLR at "high" (90/100mph) speeds like that ?)
>
>         You may be one of the few that can. :) Mine hits the wall at about
> 85 or so, actual.

Naaaa, yer just like the rest of us. That 85 actual is like 95 indicated.

- --
Jim Barthell - TX

'97 'C-O-O-O-W'...asaki KiLleR 650
FSSNOC #2421

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 07:17:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Dale W. Borgeson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Fork air pressure

FWIW, I run 0 psi in the front forks as suggested in the manual (Vent to
atmosphere with the front wheel weighted and vertical).

On bikes where you do want to run some pressure I use a small hand pump
made by Progressive Suspension. It only goes up to about 15 psi and you
can control the pressure within about 0.5 psi.

It looks sort of like a huge hypodermic syringe except it has a flexible
tube on the end instead of a needle and a small pressure guage. The
fitting on the tube works such that it closes the schrader valve before it
breaks the seal so you don't have to wory about loosing air as you
disconnect the pump.

It was a bit pricey - $40 I think, it's several years old so I don't
remember the exact price - but it works great

Cheers
- --
Dale Borgeson    [e-mail]    Minneapolis, MN U.S.A.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 07:22:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Dale W. Borgeson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: KLR weight.

I actually weighed my KLR last week. It was wet (with a nearly full gas
tank). I think it weighed about 389 pounds. I'm not positive about this
number, I have the exact numbers at home and can look it up if anyone is
really interested. I do remember that I was surprised that the bike
weighed so much more than the manual said it should.

Cheers
- --
Dale Borgeson    [e-mail]    Minneapolis, MN U.S.A.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 07:17:31 -0500
From: Jim Barthell <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Shock

Jeffrey L. Walker wrote:

> I think Jim is the guy who really loads his bike down with all his gear.  So
> I can see how he really gives his rear spring a workout, even on the
> highway.  I just hope he isn't exceeding the max load.  Anyway, if you put a
> stiffer spring on your oem shock, make sure that the shock has adequate
> dampening for it, or it might be pretty springy.....
>

Hi Jeff,
   Yeah I think your probably talking about me. It really isn't a lot of gear
though. about 100lbs I am still under spec. The key is the placement of the
weight. I have 3 50 liter Givi bags. The topcase is virtually empty. I use it
for locking up my riding gear when I stop. the two side cases are packed full
with the heaviest items inside and forward. The laptop is the exception to the
rule it is about 7 or 8 lbs and away from the centerline of the bike. First time
I loaded up my '95 a few years ago I had 30 lbs in the topcase.... whhooaaaa  I
was road kill waiting to happen. Very, very unstable. With the new shock and
current packing the bike handles very well, even at speed.
   I noticed the bike sitting a little low yesterday as I was heading for work.
I got on and was sitting flat foot. Uh-oh this is the same attitude the bike
used to take when the shock was weak. (realize the bike has been sitting for 4
or 5 days in a garage at about 120 degrees). I bounced on the a few times and it
was very... bouncy. Good news, by the end of the street I was tip toeing again
and the shock was back to its full support. So far this has been an expensive
but high quality, satisfying modification. I do not recommend exceeding any
weight specifications on the KLR. The rear rack is behind the axle and loading
it up will make handling very squirrelly.

Jim

- --
Jim Barthell - TX

'97 'C-O-O-O-W'...asaki KiLleR 650
FSSNOC #2421

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 14:54:17 +200
From: "Dave McConnell" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: KLR weight.

> I actually weighed my KLR last week. It was wet (with a nearly full gas
> tank). I think it weighed about 389 pounds. I'm not positive about this
> number, I have the exact numbers at home and can look it up if anyone is
> really interested. I do remember that I was surprised that the bike
> weighed so much more than the manual said it should.

Hmm, that would (sort of) match up with the Euro Spec figure of about 370
lbs (dry) plus 19 pounds of gas + coolant.

How did you weigh it BTW ?

Other then standing on my bathroom scale with the bike in my arms, I can't
think how :-)

Maybe book it on a flight and see how much excess baggage they want to
charge you for :-) :-)

(I'm sure there are more sensible ways of doing this....)

BTW, I was the guy that asked the question the other day about the
Euro/USA model weight mismatch. Looks like maybe the Euro figure
is the more accurate ?? Now what does the new Suzuki DR really weigh I
wonder...

Anyway, despite my concerns over weight, I have decided to get the KLR so
(barring any unforseen) I should take delivery of a 1998 model (with just
over 1000 miles) this Saturday. I have not owned a bike in 8 years. I'm
sooooooooo excited ! I cant work, I cant sleep, roll on Saturday !

Bye

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 07:46:24 -0600
From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Fork air pressure

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dale W. Borgeson <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Tuesday, June 02, 1998 6:20 AM
Subject: (klr650) Re: Fork air pressure


>FWIW, I run 0 psi in the front forks as suggested in the manual (Vent to
>atmosphere with the front wheel weighted and vertical).
>
>On bikes where you do want to run some pressure I use a small hand pump
>made by Progressive Suspension. It only goes up to about 15 psi and you
>can control the pressure within about 0.5 psi.
>
>It looks sort of like a huge hypodermic syringe except it has a flexible
>tube on the end instead of a needle and a small pressure guage. The
>fitting on the tube works such that it closes the schrader valve before it
>breaks the seal so you don't have to wory about loosing air as you
>disconnect the pump.
>
>It was a bit pricey - $40 I think, it's several years old so I don't
>remember the exact price - but it works great
>
>Cheers
>--
>Dale Borgeson [e-mail] Minneapolis, MN U.S.A.
>
>
>

The Mini Guage Pump is still available.  I sell them for $46.15

Fred Hink
[e-mail]
Arrowhead Motorsports
http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/khink/moabmc/index.html

------------------------------

Date: 02 Jun 98 10:09:00 -0400
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Who hates Corbin seats ?

- --UNS_gsauns2_2878628647
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Disposition: inline


Hi Guys ..
Well here is a deal ..
If anyone of You Have Corbin seat for KLR ( this one which is lower then stack
one)
AND want a OEM seat back .. I have brand new 1998 OEM seat on Mariola's bike ..
and she definitely wants to check Corbin ... So if You wanna trade .. lets talk
..

Kris&Mariola
(from Windy City) :-)

[e-mail]   [e-mail]

- --UNS_gsauns2_2878628647--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 15:21:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Gripsters with Tubes

I am running a tubeless version of the Metzeler Enduro 3, with a tube installed, with no problems. According to Metzeler, this is an acceptable proceedure. But you've definitely got to have the tube in. There is a "tube-type" version of this tire also, but I don't know what the difference is.

Tom Clay
Winnipeg MB

- -----------------------------------------------------
Get free personalized email at http://email.lycos.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 13:44:06 -0600
From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fwd: MAP oversize front disk

From: Eric Dietiker <[e-mail]>
Subject: MAP oversize front disk

I've had my MAP disk on the KLR for a week now, so I can
give a little report.

One of the KLR650's many deficiencies is that it doesn't
stop very well. I
rode my stock KLR650 for many thousands of miles, knowing
full well that my
brakes weren't powerful enough even to take full advantage
of the front
tire's available traction. Generally this is no problem - I
don't race the
KLR, and I don't ride like I'm on a racetrack. But once in a
while I have
to stop. I started out by installing Galfer stainless steel
brake lines.
This done, I was finally able to lock the front wheel, even
if it required
a very hefty squeeze at the lever. I rode for a few thousand
more miles
with this setup, but always felt life could be better. I
finally broke down
and bought the expensive MAP Engineering brake disk. It is a
full floating
disk, unlike the Braking oversize disk, which is a single
cast unit. Look
elsewhere for an explanation of the advantages of full
floating disks. I
just don't know.

What I do know is that the MAP disk is a beautiful piece of
work. Mounted
on bike, it looks just like the disks on my friend's Moto
Guzzi 1100 Super
Sport, except that his carriers are gold anodized. Very
trick looking.

The installation instructions are basic, with few
illustrations. The job
itself is quite simple, but there are a couple of decision
points that
could be shown much better with an illustration. The first
is which way to
install the disk, and the second is which way to fit the
caliper adapter.
The instructions say you may have to shorten the caliper
bolts, and you
definitely have to grind off a tab on the brake shoes.
Luckily, I didn't
have to shorten the bolts, and the pads I ordered from MAP
were already
altered. I'd better remember to get some pads in advance
next time though,
or I'll be doing some midnight filing.

The installation should have gone without a hitch, except
that I stripped
out one of the allen head bolts holding the stock disk to
the wheel hub.
They are on very tight, and with the little L-shaped
wrenches I had, I
couldn't get enough torque onto the bolt without putting
sideways pressure
onto the bolt. After humiliating hours with a drill &
easy-out, I finally
found that I could grip the edges of the bolt with a Vise
Grip. On my next
trip to the tool store, I'll replace that broken easy out,
and look for a
better allen head wrench solution. For people installing
their own disk, I
would recommend ordering a few extra bolts, so you can
replace the ones you
damage. The MAP disk doesn't give the option of using a
wrench to turn the
bolts, since the heads are recessed into the disk.

I took them out on a test ride, and was pretty disappointed.
Even after
about 30 miles of mixed street and freeway riding, the
brakes were only
marginally more powerful than the stock setup. I talked with
another KLR
rider in the parking lot just before we set off on our
Sunday Morning Ride
in Marin County. He had a Braking disk, which he'd had for
some time. He
was also not too happy with it. But once under way, I
started noticing that
the stopping was going a bit more easily. Then, the big eye
opener. Tearing
into a downhill lefthand U-turn, I applied the brakes.. and
felt them
gripping powerfully and easily. Just like power brakes. And
it was like
this throughout the ride. As I said before, I'm not a late
braker, but I
use my brakes to set up for nearly every turn, particularly
on tight twisty
roads. I really noticed the extra power in turns where I
needed to scrub
off alot of speed on the way in. So I started the ride
unhappy, and ended
it thrilled. To top it off, I did a couple of stoppies on
the way back
through town - something I could never muster the grip
strength to do on my
stock brakes.

So there you have it. Be careful installing them. Wait
awhile while the
pads break in (this is mentioned in the instructions, too).
Then go out and
experience braking at a level you may not have thought
possible on a KLR.

Cheers,
Eric.





- --
Kurt Simpson KLR650 A12 OB
             HawkGT '89 FS
             XS-650 '77 FS
         XS-650 '79 FS
             XS-650 '80 FS

Ask me how to subscribe to the KLR
Dual Sport Newsletter.

------------------------------

Date: 02 Jun 1998 13:52:31 -0600
From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) FW: Rides in Texas

Any of you guys in the Austin area want to hook up with Andy?

Gino

 ----------
From:  Andy Graham
Sent:  Tuesday, June 02, 1998 1:36 PM
To:  Pokluda, Gino F
Subject:  Rides in Texas

Hi Gino -
Saw that you were coordinating the DS rides at STAR98 in the latest
issue.  I won't be able to make this one, but I was hoping you might have
a lead on active DS groups in central TX.  I live in Austin and bought a
DR350SE last year and only have 600 mile on it so far.
Appreciate any leads you have...
Andy-
95 VFR750
76 CB400F
97 DR350SE

Andrew J. Graham
President, Si2 Inc.
[phone] direct
[phone] cell

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:26:59 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tires..Gripster or others

Funny thing about the speeds, I run in the high 80's low 90's a lot and have
crossed that ton barrier several times.  Of course jetting, pipe, etc. does
allow it to breath much better.  I know that stock I couldn't get it over 90
on a flat stretch.....  Just had to tell you guys.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 18:20:39 -0500
From: Steve Rottenberg <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tires..Gripster or others

>> >       The 2nd set were Pirelli mt60's . OK tire. (90% street 10% dirt)
>> >but they were too noisy at high speeds, over 80/90 mph (Am I the only SOB
>> >thet runs his KLR at "high" (90/100mph) speeds like that ?)
>>
>>         You may be one of the few that can. :) Mine hits the wall at about
>> 85 or so, actual.
>
>Naaaa, yer just like the rest of us. That 85 actual is like 95 indicated.
>
>--
>Jim Barthell - TX


Jim, Actually my bike shows 100 and It's shown 105 (one time; downhill) :)

Steve Rottenberg
Tuca en IRC (Undernet)
Email: [e-mail]
Email: [e-mail]
Don't take life so seriously ... it's not  permanent.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 18:40:29 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tell me it isn't so!

In a message dated 98-05-31 21:26:53 EDT, [e-mail] writes:

> Has anybody heard anything about this, or is it bogus?  I plan on
> buying a 99 KLR650 and would hate there not to be one!
>
>
>  PRESS RELEASE......for immediate release April 8, 1998
>  =================================================
>  In an impressive move to raise the bar for dual sport
>  cycling and meet future global emission requirements,
>  Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd., announced today that
>  the successful and venerable model KLR650 will be
>  replaced with the all new KLE400

 Geeeez..........I haven't even taken delivery of my new bike,
 and someone is already dissin' it. If you want to join in the
 discussion, subscribe by sending  "subscribe kle400"
 to [e-mail]. Be sure to leave out the
 quote marks.

    CA Ron  ( who will ride anything.........with 2 wheels ;)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 22:27:50 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: KLR weight.

Dale, I would be interested in the exact weight.  Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 22:39:05 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fwd: MAP oversize front disk

In a message dated 98-06-02 15:53:45 EDT, [e-mail] writes:

<< So there you have it. Be careful installing them. Wait
 awhile while the
 pads break in (this is mentioned in the instructions, too).
 Then go out and
 experience braking at a level you may not have thought
 possible on a KLR.
  >>
I have the MAP disk and braided line on my KLR650 also.  It wasn't until I had
accumulated about 150 miles on my rotor that I felt the full stopping
potential of the new brake setup.  I wouldn't be without it now.

Gino

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 22:06:22 -0500
From: Wes Roe <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Tubeless Gripsters

I really appreciate all of your input on the matter of putting tubeless tires
on my '96.  I gathered that there is little difference between the tubeless and
the tubed tires in general.  I am going to have the tires mounted next week
with tubes.  I will let you know how they turn out.  I am currently running an
offroad knobby on the back. I must say, it doesn't grab very well on the
pavement and I am looking forward to the comfort of having more tread on the
road.

Thanks again,
Wes Roe  A11

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 23:19:07 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re:  (klr650) Fork air

In a message dated 6/1/98 10:28:31 PM, [e-mail] wrote:
snip
>....I`m an aircraft mechanic and the reason we use nitrogen in
>tires and specifically aircraft oleo struts is because pure nitrogen
>has vitually no moisture which would induce corrosion in the oleo
>strut assembly and eventually cause failure and leakage....

 I've been told by a trusted A&P that it's to eliminate water,
 because it easily freezes at the sub zero temperatures
 encountered at typical commercial flight levels.
   True or false?

 (Maybe I should've made it multiple choice...like an FAA test;-)

              CApt. Ron  ( with a 100% on his written )

------------------------------

End of klr650-digest V1 #95
***************************