ftp.xmission.com/2014.06.ftp.xmission.com.tar/ftp.xmission.com/pub/lists/klr650/archive/klr650.199903

Internet Message Format | 1999-03-31 | 2MB

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) XRL mirrors...curb vibration YES...
Date: 28 Feb 1999 23:06:32 -0800

Is there an echo in here? I'm getting all my posts two times? Maybe every
body just started to stutter or its an Xfiles kind of thing?
Morgan
kinda confused




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From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650)Kick Start on KLRs
Date: 01 Mar 1999 07:42:37 -0500

If you get a loud 'klunk' noise intermittently after shutting down the bike
or while trying to start it you may have a worn starter clutch. Especially
if you can get it to spin without turning the motor over at all. a 1990
model will have the updated starter gears (in some service bulletin they
removed some springs from the assembly). You will need to replace the
sprague clutch and possibly the large gear if this is the case. Call some
junkyards and save yourself a pile of cash. Its an easy job but if you do it
you will need 2 kawasaki tools. The flywheel holder and the flywheel puller.


-----Original Message-----
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 1999 12:22 PM


Hello' listers...

I just want to jump onto the kick-start subject...

I've got a 1990 KLR600 that I've bought used. It was equipped both with the
kick and the electric starter. As soon as I got it, I noticed, when using
the electric starter, that the gears were very noisy...



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From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Rough Idle - Solved
Date: 01 Mar 1999 07:50:51 -0500

If you have the screw out this far you may want to go up a couple numbers on
the pilot jet. Putting a pipe on will lean the jetting over the whole area
and a jet kit doesnt address idle settings. An aftermarket filter will
really lean things out. I had to go up from a 40 to a 45 on my KLX. Factory
pro is the only place I could find with these jets on hand
http://www.factorypro.com

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 1999 3:23 PM


Hi all. I've solved my rough idle problem on my A12 w/jet kit & Cobra. It
took 4.5 turns out of the pilot screw. This is what it took to stabilize the
idle. Does anyone else have the pilot screw this far out? It sure is running
cherry now.
Special thanks to Kurt and Ron. Keep up the great work!

Kenny
South Elgin, IL
Looking forward to the next Windy city get together.






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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) RE: ShimCalc Valve Shim SW Web site.
Date: 01 Mar 1999 08:44:19 -0500


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MN Ron wrote:
>>>>>
I hang my head in shame, I LOST the web page for the shim calculator and I
really want it back.
<<<<<

Ron:

You can download the free ShimCalc program at www.ironjungle.com

Any comments from anyone on ShimCalc?  Has anyone tried it with Windows 3.1?
Any suggestions for improvement?

Pat [ShimCalc author]
Austin, TX
'97 w/ 10.6K miles

--openmail-part-190e5712-00000001--




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From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKLR] Note to self:watch for trailers
Date: 01 Mar 1999 08:47:15 -0500


-----Original Message-----


>wearing a butter dish for a helmet, (3) wearing jeans, a sleeveless
>t-shirt and short mesh-back gloves and boots (I think).

Smart guy!





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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) RE: (NKLR) (NDR)Hand signals
Date: 01 Mar 1999 10:05:08 -0500


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Gino wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
 What would possess someone to take their hand off the bars while
scooting through traffic to signal when all they had to do was move their
thumb and be much safer?
<<<<<<<<<<<<

Gino:

The *theory* is that a cager *may* see a hand signal better that a blinking
turn signal; especially in the USA where everyone seems to forget to cancel
their turn signals so sometimes they are ignored.

On occasion, I will use my blinker *and* hand signal if I am getting is a
tighter than normal slot in traffic.

Pat
Austin, TX
'97 w/ 10.6K miles

--openmail-part-190eee78-00000001--




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From: Tom Clay <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) (NKLR) (NDR)Hand signals
Date: 01 Mar 1999 09:17:01 -0600 (CST)

>If you had spent any time on a Gold Wing you'd be used to taking one (or
>more) hand off the bars... do it all the time to change the cassette, adjust
>the air vents, scratch something

I've spent lots of time on a Gold Wing [OK 200 miles] and it taught me to
keep my hand firmly attached to my winker at all times...

Tom in Winkerpeg





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From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RE: (NKLR) (NDR)Hand signals
Date: 01 Mar 1999 08:09:47 -0700

>>The *theory* is that a cager *may* see a hand signal better that a
blinking
turn signal; especially in the USA where everyone seems to forget to cancel
their turn signals so sometimes they are ignored.<<

Interesting concept.  I'll keep both hands on the bars and take my chances.

Gino, I got a grip and plan on keeping it, Pokluda




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From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) (NDR)Hand signals
Date: 01 Mar 1999 11:07:21 +0000

Gino,

You may be an old fart, but it is the survival instinct that allows you
to grow old....and that's OK!  I've already planned away the rest of my
life with how many bikes I'll be able to afford and still find time to
ride.  I hang on to my old hand signal methods since they were burned
into my brain from riding in formation alot back in the 70's with clubs
etc....

I don't advocate cutting in and out of traffic to excess, but I will
give the Buell rider some credit where I think credit is due.

I sometimes use hand signals and blinkers at the same time because in
close up traffic people will sometimes be looking way down range and
assume that what is directly in front of them is fine.  By using the
hands you bring them out of their thousand yard stare and let them know
something is about to change position just ahead.  I also use hand
signals during the winter if I'm wearing heavy gloves and have to fumble
with the signal switch.  About 95 percent of the time I use blinkers but
do still resort to the hand signal method where I think it will add
value to my life.  I especially take into consideration the sun-blinding
effect or that someone may be having a bad day and is "re-winding the
tape" and doing "play-backs" in their head and not totally aware of
what's happening.  Maybe I carry this a little too far but I'm still
alive to talk about it.  I've seen some pretty foolish accidents happen
right in front of me and never discount Murphy's Law.

Jeff



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From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Spotting & Psudeo Aluminum Boxes
Date: 01 Mar 1999 11:18:15 +0000

Vik,

I would consider the clearance to the exhaust system and also the "sail
effect" from the wind.  You obviously don't want the bike to get
obnoxious at turnpike speeds in a 25mph side wind.  It certainly looks
nice though and appears to have the lights already attached.

Jeff



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From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR e-mail problem
Date: 01 Mar 1999 08:24:48 -0800 (PST)

Okey Dokey!
My opinion is only based upon the experience with Outlook 98
(8.5.5104.6). Outlook Express is a little on the "clunky" side and
lacks some grace once you have used the real thing. But Outlook
express is much better than many products available. I guess it all
depends on what your specific requirements are.
Ok, I will recall the vote of POP, and apply the vote of "use what is
best for you". I hope nobody on this list knows I work in a Microsoft
shop...



---Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]> wrote:
>
>
> |Outlook Express is a POP anyway. I say dump it and use something
> |better, but that is my opinion.
> |
> |(POP=Piece of Poop)
>
>
> Sorry to disagree with you Rev...but Express is the best by
far...gets all the best in reviews
> too...terrific at managing multiple e-mail accounts (I have 4 that I
have to watch and
> filter)...
>
> Kurt (not a big Microsoft Fan other than I use all their stuff)
>
>


==
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




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From: Bill Haycock <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Supertrapp Article
Date: 01 Mar 1999 11:33:59 -0500

Just posted an article Gino had written on the Supertrapp IDS Series
Muffler for the KLR.

Can be found at KLR Page, Accessories and ad-ons.

Bill




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From: Hugh Stout <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Spotting & Psudeo Aluminum Boxes
Date: 01 Mar 1999 08:47:56 -0800

At 12:29 AM 3/1/99 -0500, Stephen Rivett wrote:
>Something else just went through my mind, how big do ammo boxes get?  They
>would probably cost the same amount as soft luggage from an army surplus if
>available.
>
>Stephen Rivett, the crazy guy riding a CR250 down snowmachine trails
>(usually weaving uncontrollably due to slush and perpetual flat rear tire)
>

I came back from a winter trip to the sun with two 40MM ammo boxes bought
for $10 each.  They hold 30 liters each, but also weigh 20 pounds.  At the
price they seem like a great substitute for Touratech or Jesse bags if I
can only figure out how to mount them.  It would still be a great saving
even if I have to buy Hepco-Becker mounts from Ride West.

Anybody have experience or ideas?


Hugh Stout
'74 R90/6
'78 CB400T2
'94 KLR650



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From: Hugh Stout <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Seattle to Moab
Date: 01 Mar 1999 09:14:12 -0800

I'm trying to make up my mind about Moab.  Are there any others from the
Puget Sound area who are planning on going who would be interested in
forming a group to travel at roughly legal speeds?
Hugh Stout
'74 R90/6
'78 CB400T2
'94 KLR650



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From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Spotting & Psudeo Aluminum Boxes
Date: 01 Mar 1999 10:28:01 -0700

Gino or somebody with Touratechs can you tell us what they weigh empty?


Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>At 12:29 AM 3/1/99 -0500, Stephen Rivett wrote:
>>Something else just went through my mind, how big do ammo boxes get?  They
>>would probably cost the same amount as soft luggage from an army surplus
if
>>available.
>>
>>Stephen Rivett, the crazy guy riding a CR250 down snowmachine trails
>>(usually weaving uncontrollably due to slush and perpetual flat rear tire)
>>
>
>I came back from a winter trip to the sun with two 40MM ammo boxes bought
>for $10 each.  They hold 30 liters each, but also weigh 20 pounds.  At the
>price they seem like a great substitute for Touratech or Jesse bags if I
>can only figure out how to mount them.  It would still be a great saving
>even if I have to buy Hepco-Becker mounts from Ride West.
>
>Anybody have experience or ideas?
>
>
>Hugh Stout
>'74 R90/6
>'78 CB400T2
>'94 KLR650
>





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From: Jason Ehler <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 01 Mar 1999 12:43:32 -0500

-Hello to all   this is Jason
-any body in Central to Eastern Canada who owns a
-klr 650   New at this e-mail thing.
end



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From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Acerbis Metal Fender Brace
Date: 01 Mar 1999 18:03:40 +0000

Hmm. Next time, give the list a holler. I know I'm up for a drive out to
Chaparral about 1 a month or so just to look at the toys, and I'm sure other
So.Cal listers would be happy to help you out too. I wonder if anyone on list
lives near Competition Accessories...

Sarah

Vikram Banerjee wrote:

> Didn't really want it, but Chapparal won't take a mailorder order for les
> than $30.00 so I had to buy a $25 fender brace to get a $8 part..lol...I
> love stupid rules like that..(add sarcasm to suite your taste..=))

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






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From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) (NKLR) (NDR)Hand signals
Date: 01 Mar 1999 11:49:41 -0700



    [Bogdan Swider]  I dated a fat girl years ago; it was O.K. :

> << If you had spent any time on a Gold Wing  >>
>
> Nope.  We'll leave it at that.
>
> Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Valve adjustment help needed...
Date: 01 Mar 1999 11:55:36 -0700

Bikes are for riding. Sure glad have a great dealer that send me an invoice.
How to you get time to work on these things?
Happy Trails
-----Original Message-----


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR650-List <[e-mail]>
>Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Saturday, February 27, 1999 7:24 PM
>Subject: (klr650) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]: Message too long
(>5000 chars)
>
>
>||
>||It was a nice, sunny, sorta warm day here today so I decided to check my
=
>||valve clearance.
>||My bike, a' 98, has 3600 miles on it and the dealer did NOT check the =
>||valves at the 500 mile maintenance even though he was specifically asked
=
>||to do so.  So I was getting a little nervous.
>||Took off the tank, moved the coil and fan out of the way.  Wound up =
>||removing the coolant hose at the radiator cap but there was still not =
>||enough room to get the valve cover out.  God bless Eldon Carl's article =
>||in the KLR owner's archive.  Discovered that the upper motor mount =
>||really has to come out to gain enough clearance to lift the valve cover =
>||over the cam sprockets.  Did that.
>||Remember, I'm just checking clearance here so far so I didn't disturb =
>||the cam chain tensioner.
>||Got the engine easily to TDC.  Haven't broken or stripped anything so =
>||far.  Cool.  Checked the valves:
>||Left exhaust=3D.005"
>||Right exhaust=3D.006"
>||Left intake=3D.003"
>||Right Intake=3D.004"
>||This means that all four valves need adjusting as the left intake and =
>||exhaust are under minimum tolerance and the right intake and exhaust are
=
>||just at minimum tolerance.
>||All right, back to the service manual, figuring I'll be able to =
>||calculate the needed shims and I can call the dealer, as it's only 1 PM,
=
>||to see if he has the shims I need.  First hurdle.  Discover that I need =
>||to remove the shims already in the engine to see what size they are =
>||BEFORE I can calculate the size of the new shims.  Well shit!
>||Back to the engine to consider disassembly and note that there is a =
>||sheet metal cover over the top of the cam chain where it crosses from =
>||the top of one cam sprocket to the other.  The cover obviously has to =
>||come off to remove the camshafts but it is not shown in the exploded =
>||views in the service manuals and nobody talks about it in any of the =
>||literature about valve adjustments I've read so far.  It obviously rubs =
>||on the top of the cam chain but it's tough to tell if it contains any =
>||spring-loaded "surprises" when removed.  This cover is held by three =
>||screws, one of which is covered by the oil pipe going between the left =
>||exhaust and intake cam bearings.  You have to remove the cam bearing =
>||caps to get this screw out.  The other two screws are about two inches =
>||down in the head, well below the cams, in the channel where the chain =
>||lives.  If you drop one getting it out, it goes all  the way to China =
>||and it looks like the only way to retrieve it would be some major engine
=
>||disassembly, starting the clock on a very bad day.  Time to stop.  Need =
>||to know more.  Don't have a in/lb torque wrench anyway.
>||So I put it all back together which was a lot easier than getting it =
>||apart.
>||Question One:
>||What is this cover over the cam chain and what's the scoop on getting it
=
>||off and re-installing it.
>||Question Two:
>||This has to do with Eldon's article.  He strongly mentions in Step 6 =
>||that the cam chain tensioner must be removed BEFORE removing the valve =
>||cover.  Since I already have the cover off,  do I need to re-install it =
>||and then loosen the tensioner and then remove the valve cover again.  I =
>||stared at this motor for quite awhile and I just could not see how the =
>||valve cover is related to the cam chain tensioner or cam chain in any =
>||way.  What am I missing in step 6?
>||Question Three:
>||Do I really need a torque wrench to tighten the cam bearing screws or =
>||can I fake it with a reasonable chance of success?  A wrench costs about
=
>||$80.00 and nobody I know has one I can borrow.
>||Question Four:
>||Once the cams are removed, what's the trick for keeping the cam chain on
=
>||the crankshaft sprocket while you are working.  Obviously, if it falls =
>||off or skips a tooth, the whole re-timing issue comes up.  Best to avoid
=
>||this. What's the trick?
>||Thanks.
>|
>|
>|
>|
>
>




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From: Pippo Nicotera <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)Kick Start on KLRs
Date: 01 Mar 1999 15:30:57 +0100

Hello' Mike...

TNX for your message!

> If you get a loud 'klunk' noise intermittently after shutting down the bike
> or while trying to start it you may have a worn starter clutch.

I can hear a metallic "klunk" sometimes when turning off the engine... I
never get it when starting it. This is since I went through the starter
clutch replacement (Well, the shop went through it for me, actually!)
I hope this doesn't mean my starter clutch is worn again!

> Especially
> if you can get it to spin without turning the motor over at all.

I'm not sure I catch the meaning of this, pardon...

> a 1990
> model will have the updated starter gears (in some service bulletin they
> removed some springs from the assembly). You will need to replace the
> sprague clutch and possibly the large gear if this is the case.

I didn't know they changed the starter design at any point!?! Anybody else
with more info on this subject? My partner is a 1990 KLR600 E.S.

> Call some
> junkyards and save yourself a pile of cash. Its an easy job but if you do
> it you will need 2 kawasaki tools. The flywheel holder and the flywheel
> puller.
>

Many thanks for the advice, Mike... all the best regards!

Pippo, "The Horse With No Name", in Italy!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650)Kick Start on KLRs
Date: 01 Mar 1999 14:20:50 -0500

There was a service bulletin somewhere around 85 or so on the KLR600's. It
involved replacing a couple gears that had a spring loaded cush inside. the
springs stored enough energy that when they rebounded it could break another
gear soemwhere. Yours isnt affected by this. If you just had it rebuilt I'd
have them listen to it. If you can depress the starter, get it to spin but
the starter clutch doesnt grab and spin the motor you have a problem. Mine
only started to do that a few months after the noise began, somewhere around
18k mi. The sprague clutch is a neat simple unit that uses egg-shaped cams
held by a spring to lock the flywheel to the hub of that large gear in one
direction. The springs tend to stretch out and not hold enough tension on
the cams.. also you get wear on the cams and gear hub.


Hello' Mike...

TNX for your message!

> If you get a loud 'klunk' noise intermittently after shutting down the
bike
> or while trying to start it you may have a worn starter clutch.

I can hear a metallic "klunk" sometimes when turning off the engine... I
never get it when starting it. This is since I went through the starter
clutch replacement (Well, the shop went through it for me, actually!)
I hope this doesn't mean my starter clutch is worn again!

> Especially
> if you can get it to spin without turning the motor over at all.

I'm not sure I catch the meaning of this, pardon...

> a 1990
> model will have the updated starter gears (in some service bulletin they
> removed some springs from the assembly). You will need to replace the
> sprague clutch and possibly the large gear if this is the case.

I didn't know they changed the starter design at any point!?! Anybody else
with more info on this subject? My partner is a 1990 KLR600 E.S.

> Call some
> junkyards and save yourself a pile of cash. Its an easy job but if you do
> it you will need 2 kawasaki tools. The flywheel holder and the flywheel
> puller.
>

Many thanks for the advice, Mike... all the best regards!

Pippo, "The Horse With No Name", in Italy!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Steve Deckert <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (no subject)
Date: 01 Mar 1999 12:02:56 -0800

lists





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From: Steve Deckert <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (no subject)
Date: 01 Mar 1999 12:24:16 -0800

lists





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From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)Kick Start on KLRs
Date: 02 Mar 1999 06:47:36 +1000

Mike Ratta wrote:

[...]
> model will have the updated starter gears (in some service bulletin they
> removed some springs from the assembly). You will need to replace the
> sprague clutch and possibly the large gear if this is the case.

As I've replaced my s/clutch recently, I'll have to assume that I was
supplied the updated item.
The B series supplement, which covers 600s up to 1994 B9, doesn't make
any mention of variations to the starter clutch.

> Call some
> junkyards and save yourself a pile of cash. Its an easy job but if you do it
> you will need 2 kawasaki tools. The flywheel holder and the flywheel puller.

The flywheel puller should be available from any good bolt shop.
I could measure up the bolt I bought if anyone wants the specs.
I had a local fabricator make a rotor holder for me by knowing the
flat-to-flat measurement and looking at the pictures in the manual
and guessing a few dimensions.
With Au$70 worth of bolt and holder, it took literally about 5 seconds
to remove the rotor.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Fw: (klr650) KLR Spotting & Psudeo Aluminum Boxes
Date: 02 Mar 1999 06:52:00 +1000

Arne Larsen wrote:

> Just a thought... You don't think all the weight load concentrated off the
> back end of the bike won't affect the handling of the bike too negatively?

It won't help any, but it couldn't be worse than carrying a pillion,
could it?

Mister_T





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From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Disassembling the rear suspension
Date: 01 Mar 1999 16:19:33 -0500

I welcomed Kurt's offer to write the procedure up but after delving into
it, I found the bolts on the links to be so #$%@ tight, a 15" breakover
bar and my weight made them barely budge. I was able to replace the
tired stock shock with a gift one (stock, < 1300 miles) from Stuart
(Fireball Stu). Why go thru the motions to replace a stock with a stock?
Well, after 14,000+ miles of hauling my 220+ lbs, my Pelican 1550's,
asstd books, the original one needed a shot of Viagra after a half day
ride. I'm holding off on a new shock until after my house is sold but
wanted to continue riding (say, to Daytona this week) on functioning
equipment.
I am distressed about my inability to remove the suspension links. I
want to inspect the grease level in them. Especially since the original
was very crusty with white oxidation(?). I'll keep plugging at them; I
just don't want to go reaming anything out/off/round/smooth that
shouldn't be, ya know? If you intend to engage in suspension work
anytime soon, watch the knuckles- some of those bolts are super tight
and have almost no clearance around them for a slip off- you'll bark
your knuckles directly.

Jake, no barkin today. Did take about 2 hours, as Gino said. Gotta split
it amidships to get the old out/new in.

Jake,

Kurt Simpson wrote:
> > Jake, while you're in there take some pictures and do a procedure write-up for the
> web/newsletter. How about getting a grease fitting on the swingarm link?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: J.Taylor <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
> Date: Sunday, February 28, 1999 8:36 PM
> Subject: (klr650) Disassembling the rear suspension
>
> |I plan to dive into replacing the rear shock tomorrow. Should I look at
> |the grease level in the link's? Any caveats before I delve into the rear
> |suspension? Seems pretty straight forward but thought I'd check.
> |
> |Jake in Jacksonville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Lower Mainland - Bike Advice
Date: 01 Mar 1999 12:54:35 +0000

At 07:59 PM 2/27/99 -0800, Arne Larsen wrote:
>Hey Brian,
>
>I live in Abbotsford.  Don't have a bike right now (oh, oh, my cover's
>blown) that would be suitable for the type of riding you're talking about
>(it's a Valkyrie Tourer).  However, when I sell the bike a replace it with a
>dual-sport I'll let you know.  I'll hang on to your name and e-mail address
>so when the time comes I'll be able to give you a shout.
>
>I found my way on to this list because one of the bikes in the running (for
>my purchase) is the KLR650.  I have to decide just how much off-road capable
>I need the bike to be.  The KLR seems to be the best all-round choice for
>the rider who wants something capable for both sides of the fence.  I'm also
>considering the BMW F650 (I won't call it a Fu....o), Or maybe the Triumph
>Tiger.  I won't probably won't lean more to the dirt side of things than the
>KLR (ala XR650L) because of the sacrifices I'd be making in comfort and
>capability on the street.  I see the Honda as more of a dirt bike with
>lights.  If I wanted a really capable dirt bike I'd buy two bikes - one for
>the street and one to throw in the back of my truck to take to the trails.
>The Tiger may be too street (and too heavy, and too expensive).  I like the
>BMW though.  A little heavier than the KLR.  A little more power.  More
>comfortable on the street.  And still O.K. on the logging roads.  I just
>have to be able to justify the extra cost over the KLR ($3500).


    Neither the KLR nor the F650 exibit a serious offroad capability, mostly
owing to their substantial mass. The difference is that you can affod to
take your KLR offroad and dump it in the mud, break off the mirrors, etc.
KLRs "bounce" exceedingly well, wheras the F650 exibiting the same degree
of battle damage would induce an owner to cry...


-Tom
'96 KLR 650
32,400 Mi.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) XRL mirrors...curb vibration YES...
Date: 01 Mar 1999 15:22:30 -0700

>Following one of our listers advice I ordered a pair of XRL-650 mirrors
from Fred. He had them
>drop shipped to me.  I just got the bike running after the most recent
valve adjustment. They
>work! Not 100% but 90%...before my left mirror was useless now just a hint
of fuzz at about
>4K...Thanks for the tip.
>
>Kurt
>Salt Lake City


Kurt,
    I`ve noticed that on some bikes they work and on others, they don`t.
Each KLR has it`s own frequency signature, so results apparently vary. I
remember last year when we were going over these and the Suzuki GS mirror
mounts, some Listers had no improvement with the Honda mounts, but they had
some improvement with the Suzuki mirror mounts. I personally had no
improvement with the Honda mounts on my bike. Keep in mind that with temp.
change, there will be a change in the damping qualities. I noticed that
there was a worsening in blurring with the GS mounts as the temp got below
40degrees ( rubber getting stiff).
    I think that they and the GS mounts are worth trying on everyone`s bike,
they may or may not work, but you won`t know till you try.


 Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) XRL mirrors...curb vibration YES...
Date: 01 Mar 1999 15:32:47 -0700

Gentlemen,

Are we talking about the XR600L mirrors themselves or the mounts attaching
the mirrors to the bars?

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>>Following one of our listers advice I ordered a pair of XRL-650 mirrors
>from Fred. He had them
>>drop shipped to me.  I just got the bike running after the most recent
>valve adjustment. They
>>work! Not 100% but 90%...before my left mirror was useless now just a hint
>of fuzz at about
>>4K...Thanks for the tip.
>>
>>Kurt
>>Salt Lake City
>
>
>Kurt,
>    I`ve noticed that on some bikes they work and on others, they don`t.
>Each KLR has it`s own frequency signature, so results apparently vary. I
>remember last year when we were going over these and the Suzuki GS mirror
>mounts, some Listers had no improvement with the Honda mounts, but they had
>some improvement with the Suzuki mirror mounts. I personally had no
>improvement with the Honda mounts on my bike. Keep in mind that with temp.
>change, there will be a change in the damping qualities. I noticed that
>there was a worsening in blurring with the GS mounts as the temp got below
>40degrees ( rubber getting stiff).
>    I think that they and the GS mounts are worth trying on everyone`s
bike,
>they may or may not work, but you won`t know till you try.
>
>
> Skip
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) XRL mirrors...curb vibration YES...
Date: 01 Mar 1999 16:04:48 -0700


|    I`ve noticed that on some bikes they work and on others, they don`t.
|Each KLR has it`s own frequency signature, so results apparently vary. I
|remember last year when we were going over these and the Suzuki GS mirror
|mounts, some Listers had no improvement with the Honda mounts, but they had
|some improvement with the Suzuki mirror mounts. I personally had no
|improvement with the Honda mounts on my bike. Keep in mind that with temp.
|change, there will be a change in the damping qualities. I noticed that
|there was a worsening in blurring with the GS mounts as the temp got below
|40degrees ( rubber getting stiff).


Skip, I think you're right...frankly, I was surprised that they worked...when I wrote the post
I was comparing them with the bike on the stand at 2K, 3K, and 4K. They worked even better on
the road, even my SO (on the back) said "amazing"...that is pretty good for her.  I've been
lookiing for a bike for you but no luck so far...how about on your end?

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) XRL mirrors...curb vibration YES...
Date: 01 Mar 1999 16:07:52 -0700



|Gentlemen,
|
|Are we talking about the XR600L mirrors themselves or the mounts attaching
|the mirrors to the bars?
|
|Cheers,
|
|Vik


The full monty...the KLR mirrors don't fit in the smaller diameter XRL dampeners...As another
lister noted, they improve on the stock especially on the right side by getting out just a tat
further and higher giving you a better read to the rear instead of it being your shoulder. As
still anothe side benefit, the color and finish match the industrial green of the Kawasaki
engine....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Pilot jetting...
Date: 01 Mar 1999 16:12:13 -0700

I wrote a few weeks ago that I was very surprised to find that using Jake's tool and having the
bike running that the "ideal" setting (using rpm drops high and low) for my pilot screw was
11/2 screws...richer than stock but much less than I had been running at 21/2.  Now the rest of
the story...OB is back-firing like my old Dodge truck coming down hills. Not just a little
almost embarassing stuff...otherwise runs great...I may have to back 'er out a little to save
face...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) archive and Tachometers...
Date: 01 Mar 1999 23:30:44 +0000

So, I went and searched the archive (nice. very, very nice.). Tachometer fix - nada. Tachometer -
nada. Tach aha! 31 listings.

See, the 95 KLR I bought had a couple of things that weren't exactly right with it. Like, for
instance, the tach doesn't work. I haven't yet gotten a manual for the bike, and I was wondering
if this is something I can remedy with a saturday and some parts and tools. Or if it's annoying
enough that it's not worth doing. 1/2 of the archived articles seem to think that the tach is
kinda useless/inaccurate, the other 1/2 are like the below posting (where you use the tach reading
to perform other service, and therefore a necessary feature)

Anyone got a strong opinion one way or the other? *ducks quickly*

:)
Sarah

Kurt Simpson wrote:

> I wrote a few weeks ago that I was very surprised to find that using Jake's tool and having the
> bike running that the "ideal" setting (using rpm drops high and low) for my pilot screw was
> 11/2 screws...richer than stock but much less than I had been running at 21/2.  Now the rest of
> the story...OB is back-firing like my old Dodge truck coming down hills. Not just a little
> almost embarassing stuff...otherwise runs great...I may have to back 'er out a little to save
> face...
>
> Kurt

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) archive and Tachometers...
Date: 01 Mar 1999 16:11:28 -0800

Sarah,

Personally, I've never liked it when things on my vehicles that were
supposed to work, didn't.  Case in point:  the clock on my '74 2-door Nova
Custom.  Did a lot of work on it - fast car.  Wasn't completely happy until
I had that clock working.

Arne
p.s. - "weddingchannel.com"?


-----Original Message-----


>So, I went and searched the archive (nice. very, very nice.). Tachometer
fix - nada. Tachometer -
>nada. Tach aha! 31 listings.
>
>See, the 95 KLR I bought had a couple of things that weren't exactly right
with it. Like, for
>instance, the tach doesn't work. I haven't yet gotten a manual for the
bike, and I was wondering
>if this is something I can remedy with a saturday and some parts and tools.
Or if it's annoying
>enough that it's not worth doing. 1/2 of the archived articles seem to
think that the tach is
>kinda useless/inaccurate, the other 1/2 are like the below posting (where
you use the tach reading
>to perform other service, and therefore a necessary feature)
>
>Anyone got a strong opinion one way or the other? *ducks quickly*
>
>:)
>Sarah





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: leveraged ride
Date: 01 Mar 1999 19:44:54 EST

   maybe one of the engineers on the list will raise their-arm

and take a-moment to explain the c.o.g.-lever thingy

   dawn-

"give me a lever long enough and a place to stand and i will move the earth."

   -archimedes



In a message dated 3/1/99 4:37:38 PM, [e-mail]
writes:

>------------------------------
>
>Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 06:52:00 +1000
>From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
>Subject: Re: Fw: (klr650) KLR Spotting & Psudeo Aluminum Boxes
>
>Arne Larsen wrote:
>
>>Just a thought... You don't think all the weight load concentrated off the
>>back end of the bike won't affect the handling of the bike too negatively?
>
>It won't help any, but it couldn't be worse than carrying a pillion,
>could it?
>
>Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Peter Dahlheimer, MD" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
Date: 01 Mar 1999 19:55:38 -0500

i realize the limit on the luggage rack is only like 30 pounds, but i've
taken my chances numerous times without a problem.  while camping, i have
numerous times lugged a large water container (about 10 gallons, whatever
that weighs) tucked inside my ActionPacker up a rough dirt hill without
going over backwards or damaging the bike.

_pete





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alan Henderson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Spotting
Date: 01 Mar 1999 20:25:03 -0600

>>Hi all,
>>
>>The March '99 issue of Cycle Canada they have an article about Alaska and
>>the Yukon.  It called.."Midnight Sun: A pair of KLRs takes the roads less
>>traveled to the Yukon, Alaska and the Arctic Circle."
>>
>>If you are interested in this article and can't get the magazine locally
>>just e-mail me and I'll scan it and send it to you.
>>
>I would be interested. Why not scan it in and post it to someones website.
>                                    Alan Henderson

This article is now available on my website:
http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/page1.jpg
http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/page2.jpg
http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/page3.jpg
http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/page4.jpg
http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/page5.jpg


Thanks to Vic Banerjee for scanning this in. I will leave it on my website
for a couple weeks.                                   Alan Henderson, Iowa A13





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR Reference Log
Date: 01 Mar 1999 19:44:01 PST

Do you folks ever find yourselves wanting to maintain ready access to a
particularly informative or helpful posting without having to print it
out or keep it in your in-box (those things have a way of piling up)?
You know, stuff that will one day be useful but not necessarily right
now?  Kurt's search engine is AWESOME but it would be nice to be able to
go somewhere and know exactly when (and from whom) a particular message
was sent.  Some thoughts along those lines inspired me draw up a simple
five column "KLR Reference Log"  with the following headers: "SUBJECT,"
"SENDER'S E-MAIL," "AUTHOR," "DATE," and "TIME."  This information will
allow you to retrieve all e-mails of note from the archives in minimum
time. I've printed out a copy and have placed it in the three ring
binder that contains all my DSN issues.  Now, all I have to do is jot
down the relevent information and it's always there, ready to point me
exactly where I need to go.  If you're Word download capable and are
interested in getting a copy, just write me (off-list) and I'll e-mail
one to you.  It's nothing fancy, but it is functional.  Later...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: John Buffett <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Spotting
Date: 01 Mar 1999 23:17:34 -0500

Thanks  Vik and Alan.
I enjoyed the arcticle. Spelling pun intended.
Regards:
John

Alan Henderson wrote:
>
> >>Hi all,
> >>
> >>The March '99 issue of Cycle Canada they have an article about Alaska and
> >>the Yukon.  It called.."Midnight Sun: A pair of KLRs takes the roads less
> >>traveled to the Yukon, Alaska and the Arctic Circle."
> >>
> >>If you are interested in this article and can't get the magazine locally
> >>just e-mail me and I'll scan it and send it to you.
> >>
> >I would be interested. Why not scan it in and post it to someones website.
> >                                    Alan Henderson
>
> This article is now available on my website:
> http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/page1.jpg
> http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/page2.jpg
> http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/page3.jpg
> http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/page4.jpg
> http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/page5.jpg
>
> Thanks to Vic Banerjee for scanning this in. I will leave it on my website
> for a couple weeks.                                   Alan Henderson, Iowa A13

--
As you wander on throught life my friend, whatever be  your  goal.
Keep your eye upon the  donut, and  never on the hole.

John
Northern Ontario, Canada



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) SuperTrapp IDS
Date: 01 Mar 1999 23:59:40 -0500

Wow, talk about timing, I was just ready to order up an IDS quiet series
when I read Gino's article about his can probably needing a repack after
just 400 miles to stay quiet.  You guys (and gals) out there with this
muffler, anybody elce had it get noticably louder after such a short period,
or is Gino just special?  :)

BG




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: your trip
Date: 02 Mar 1999 00:18:41 -0500

I looked into going from Panama to Columbia, sounds like a really bad idea.
Turns out the two countries are at war which causes problems trying to get
over the border alive...There is supposed to be a trail though.
-----Original Message-----


>That wild area between Panama and Colombia is called the Darien Gap.
>I have heard that a road is under construction, but no recent news.
>Also heard that a motorcyclist made it thru somehow recently but no
>details.
>I read the articles by world traveler bicyclist Ian Hibbell on his
>south to north trip and the gap sounds like one very swampy
>inhospitable area. Much simpler to take a boat to Ecuador or Colombia
>and continue by road.
>There have been trip reports on some of the bike sites, esp. those 5
>guys on klr650s.  Made the bikes sound like world beaters- zero
>problems. Start with the klr650 page, maybe theres a link.
>Good luck, fred
>How is your spanish and porta'gees??
>
>
>
>
>
>==
>fred w smith
>mt shasta californy
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Aluminum Boxes made in Canada
Date: 01 Mar 1999 22:13:43 -0800

Okay Folks,

I am going to make an aluminum tail box/side box combo.  I have scanned a
sketch of the dimensions for anyone interested.  The link below has a rough
pic of what it will look like.   The basic features are:

http://reiseenduro.de/users/carlo/motorrad/fotos/alukoffer/roemer.jpg

- 2.5-3mm aluminum construction
- 165 L total capacity
- attached to KLR rack and to passenger foot pegs (you don't lose the
passenger foot peg)
- waterproof/dustproof lid that is totally removable and lockable with pad
lock
- 6 tie down strap hooks on top of lid for lashing on a tent or spare tire,
etc..
- the box will be square (ie no fancy round or angled edges)
- the box will be bent and welded for strength
- interior and exterior powder coating available (avoids aluminum oxide on
your stuff)

I will also be getting some custom nylon bags made to fit the side portions
of the box so that it can be loaded and unloaded easily.  Rip stop nylon
with webbing handles.

The box will not be finished to the standards of a Jesse box, but it will
not look like crap.  Sort of imagine the comparison of a BMW F650 to a
KLR650.  The fabricator I found has a reputation for high quality work, I
just didn't want to pay for the frills when they don't add any function.
Additionally, the final product will look a little industrial like my KLR
which is cool.  By attaching the box to the KLR rack and then to the frame
at the passenger foot pegs the mounting should be rock solid.

I will be getting a few made (3 or so) to defray the costs.  If somebody
wants one let me know.  Prices as follows:

- box with lid and mounting struts and hardware $385US + shipping
- powder coating (both inside and out) - $50US
- two nylon custom bags - $30US (estimated)

Compared to other aluminum box options which price out at $800+US with
mounting brackets this is cheap and you get a top box as a bonus.  You can
thank a weak Canadian dollar and a low crude oil price for the low price of
the box.  I sized it so two full sized helmets and misc gear can fit in the
top box easily.  The overall width is about 36.5"....so more than the Jesse
boxes, but less than the touratech boxes in width.  The scanned image I have
includes all the measurements.  I retain the option of adjusting the
dimensions within an inch or so to better fit the bike.  Since I have to be
happy with the final product I'll very interested in ensuring the final
product is excellent and fits well.

The boxes will be ready by mid-march from this order,  If you miss out on
this round of boxes and want one let me know we can work something out, but
it will be about 20% more to have a single box made and the time for
fabrication will depend on the company's workload and mine.

Cheers,

Vik






-----Original Message-----


>Here is a pic of what I am thinking about:
>
>http://reiseenduro.de/users/carlo/motorrad/fotos/alukoffer/roemer.jpg
>
>Can anyone see a problem with mounting this directly to the KLR rack?
Would
>it need other supports?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vik Banerjee <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR650 List <[e-mail]>
>Date: Sunday, February 28, 1999 6:04 PM
>Subject: (klr650) KLR Spotting & Psudeo Aluminum Boxes
>
>
>>As I was leaving the U a KLR makes a
>>left turn in front of me.  He had a wicked aluminum box set up.  Imagine
an
>>aluminum top box and touratech side boxes all fused into one so it looked
>>like a upside down "U" ....and was attached to teh KLR rack.  I had seen
>>them on Euro Transalps, but heard they were discontinued even in Europe.
>>The guy had a two light head start on me so I had to blast.  120kph in a
60
>>zone, but luckily no cops.  He turns into a side street so I am following
>>him all over this neighbourhood trying to catch up without killing
>>anyone...including myself.
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) Hand signals
Date: 01 Mar 1999 09:20:35 -0800

>From: [e-mail]
<snip>
>What would possess someone to take their hand off the bars while
>scooting through traffic to signal when all they had to do was move their
>thumb and be much safer?  Am I missing something here?  Am I becoming >and
old fart and out of touch with what is cool? (that can't possibly be it).
>Gino, I use my winker all the time, Pokluda

Don't know if hand signals are the latest fad or not, but I always say that
anything that can increase one's visibility whilest ridin' a scooter is a
*good* thing.  Winker use in conjunction with hand signal is probably more
effective than just one or the other.  Even if some motorists these days may
not know the meaning of the hand signals, at least they can see movement on
the part of the rider...hopefully.  FWIW, in Nevada I'm told it is illegal
to take a hand off one's handlebar except to switch the petcock.
Ride Sane,
Darrel







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Spotting
Date: 01 Mar 1999 23:28:40 -0600

John Buffett wrote:
 > Thanks  Vik and Alan.


Thanks from me, too.  It wuz a good'un!

phil



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dennis L. Williams" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) archive and Tachometers...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 00:20:52 -0600


-----Original Message-----


>
95 KLR I bought had a couple of things that weren't exactly right with it.
Like, for
>instance, the tach doesn't work.

This may sound like a stupid question but have you checked to see that you
have a cable inside your cable housing?  Last fall my tach quit working
while I was riding and I found that the cable housing had come unscrewed
from the front wheel hub.  Bye, bye cable!  When I got my new cable I
loctited both ends.

Dennis
98 KLR
79XT500
75 XL125




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Spotting
Date: 01 Mar 1999 23:43:31 -0800

Thanks guys, this was really cool.  They began their journey right off my
doorstep.  (actually it was about 15 minutes away, but "right off my
doorstep" sounded better).






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR Free Russel Fuel Filters!!!
Date: 02 Mar 1999 01:42:11 -0000

I don't know what the deal is, but at the Russell webpage, they have fuel
filters listed as "free" on their internet special page.

http://www.russellperformance.com/internet_special_pro_system_oil_.htm




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650)Kick Start on KLRs
Date: 02 Mar 1999 07:55:10 -0500


As I've replaced my s/clutch recently, I'll have to assume that I was
supplied the updated item.
The B series supplement, which covers 600s up to 1994 B9, doesn't make
any mention of variations to the starter clutch.

Your local dealer will have a copy of the service bulletins for the bike..
its in there! :)

> Call some
> junkyards and save yourself a pile of cash. Its an easy job but if you do
it
> you will need 2 kawasaki tools. The flywheel holder and the flywheel
puller.

The flywheel puller should be available from any good bolt shop.
I could measure up the bolt I bought if anyone wants the specs.
I had a local fabricator make a rotor holder for me by knowing the
flat-to-flat measurement and looking at the pictures in the manual
and guessing a few dimensions.
With Au$70 worth of bolt and holder, it took literally about 5 seconds
to remove the rotor.

The kawasaki parts werent cheap. I got ripped off! :)





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "R. Kaub" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Visibility
Date: 02 Mar 1999 09:37:39

Go to:   www.seebak.com
and check out their #SB700 vest @$29.95.
It seems like a nice vest that won't cover-up all the pockets on your
jacket.  I would think that this vest would be a good idea for urban
riding.  Thanks.
Bob Kaub
State University of New York
PO Box 6000
Binghamton, NY  13902
607-777-2715



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) SuperTrapp IDS
Date: 02 Mar 1999 08:02:39 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Wow, talk about timing, I was just ready to order up an IDS quiet series
>when I read Gino's article about his can probably needing a repack after
>just 400 miles to stay quiet.  You guys (and gals) out there with this
>muffler, anybody elce had it get noticably louder after such a short
period,
>or is Gino just special?  :)
>
>BG
>
>
>

We already knew the Gino was special.  ;<)

All mufflers that use fiberglass for sound absorption will eventually loose
some or all of the fiberglass.  My Megamax is noticeably louder after the
first 3 or 4 months.  Fiberglass is pretty cheap.  You can repack your
muffler for around $5 and is fairly easy to do.

Look at the last line in Gino's report on the IDS "The Supertrapp IDS Quiet
Series is not the perfect dual sport muffler, but it is better than anything
else out on the market at this time."  I think this about says it all.
Don't dismiss the IDS so quickly.

ps. yes, I have an ax to grind.  I have them in stock.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                    Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW*
                           435-259-7356
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Ben Ryan (NKLR)
Date: 02 Mar 1999 07:43:15 -0700

Yesterday, I had to stop at the local hardware store on the way home.  When
I came out there was a guy checking out my KLR650 (a.k.a. "The best dual
sport in the world").  His name was Ben Ryan and he had a Pacific Coast that
was plastered with stickers from all kinds of places and had Texas plates.
He is a retired petro-chemist from Houston and now travels.  His PC800 had
112,000 miles on it and has been to Alaska twice, Argentina once, many
Colorado mountain passes, and has done the White Rim Trail in Utah, not
once, not twice, but three times! He had fabricated two small fuel cells
that fit into the trunk/saddlebag section which gave his PC800 7.5 gallons
fuel capacity.  I think Ben and his Pacific Coast should be made honorary
members of the dual sport world and told him to look us up when he returned
home (he was on his way to Santa Fe and then over to see friends Nevada). He
said when his PC dies, he will get a KLR650. Did I mention that the KLR is
the best dual sport in the world next to Ben Ryan's PC800?

Gino




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
Date: 02 Mar 1999 08:23:10 -0700

You are lucky. We have had to weld frames & repair broken bolts.
Happy Trails
-----Original Message-----


>i realize the limit on the luggage rack is only like 30 pounds, but i've
>taken my chances numerous times without a problem.  while camping, i have
>numerous times lugged a large water container (about 10 gallons, whatever
>that weighs) tucked inside my ActionPacker up a rough dirt hill without
>going over backwards or damaging the bike.
>
>_pete
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) SuperTrapp IDS
Date: 02 Mar 1999 08:15:46 -0700

>>Look at the last line in Gino's report on the IDS "The Supertrapp IDS
Quiet
Series is not the perfect dual sport muffler, but it is better than anything
else out on the market at this time."  I think this about says it all.
Don't dismiss the IDS so quickly.<<

First let me say that that was my first review of an exhaust, though I have
tried others, including the Cobra ISDE. I particularly do not care for loud
bikes.  I feel they do far more harm to the sport than the few pounds and
marginal performance gains we see. I do like the idea of lighter weight and
power and if it can be provided by a muffler that is quiet, great. The IDS
is right on the edge of being acceptable *to me*.  I would much rather see
riders running these instead of external disc 'Trapps with 12 discs and an
open end cap.

Gino, I'll get off my soap box now, Pokluda




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: your trip
Date: 02 Mar 1999 08:12:49 -0800

You can see some photos and a description of the Darien by
Adventure-traveler Helge Pedersen on http://globeriders.com or see his
excellent photo book called "10 years on 2 Wheels".  Helge said the Darien
Gap was the most dangerous section of his travels, and with half a million
miles of traveling under his belt, I'd end to think the Darien is pretty
serious.

Helge is currently on a tour of the eastern states (with his excellent
multi-media slideshow), and it's possible he might be coming thru your
city, so check the website for the schedule.

Tom


=========================

.>I looked into going from Panama to Columbia, sounds like a really bad idea.
>Turns out the two countries are at war which causes problems trying to get
>over the border alive...There is supposed to be a trail though.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fred w smith <[e-mail]>
>To: Stephen Rivett <[e-mail]>
>Date: March 1, 1999 9:38 PM
>Subject: Re: your trip
>
>
>>That wild area between Panama and Colombia is called the Darien Gap.
>>I have heard that a road is under construction, but no recent news.
>>Also heard that a motorcyclist made it thru somehow recently but no
>>details.
>>I read the articles by world traveler bicyclist Ian Hibbell on his
>>south to north trip and the gap sounds like one very swampy
>>inhospitable area. Much simpler to take a boat to Ecuador or Colombia
>>and continue by road.
>>There have been trip reports on some of the bike sites, esp. those 5
>>guys on klr650s.  Made the bikes sound like world beaters- zero
>>problems. Start with the klr650 page, maybe theres a link.
>>Good luck, fred
>>How is your spanish and porta'gees??
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>==
>>fred w smith
>>mt shasta californy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>_________________________________________________________
>>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>>
>>


+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
Date: 02 Mar 1999 09:16:19 -0700

I am having a hard time understanding something that some of the more
experienced listers can maybe explain.  If I bolt a aluminum box to my rack
and attach it at the passenger foot pegs - then I load it with say 100lbs of
gear.  How is that different (better or worse) than carrying a passenger
that weighs 120lbs and/or mounting a set of aluminum boxes such as the Jesse
set up and maybe a givi top case (all loaded up of course).

I understand that weight at the back of the bike will affect handling, but I
guess I am concerned with damaging the bike.  Some people have commented
that my idea for a integrated topcase/side boxes would be bad for the KLR's
frame, but I just don't understand (and I am no expert so I am prepared for
some good advice) what  the problem is with this setup, when I have seen
KLRs loaded up with topcase, and side boxes as well as stuff strapped on top
of those?

I would be very appreciative of any input on this.

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>You are lucky. We have had to weld frames & repair broken bolts.
>Happy Trails
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Peter Dahlheimer, MD <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Monday, March 01, 1999 5:54 PM
>Subject: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
>
>
>>i realize the limit on the luggage rack is only like 30 pounds, but i've
>>taken my chances numerous times without a problem.  while camping, i have
>>numerous times lugged a large water container (about 10 gallons, whatever
>>that weighs) tucked inside my ActionPacker up a rough dirt hill without
>>going over backwards or damaging the bike.
>>
>>_pete
>>
>>
>>
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Ben Ryan (NKLR)
Date: 02 Mar 1999 09:25:35 -0700


>sport in the world").  His name was Ben Ryan and he had a Pacific Coast that
>was plastered with stickers from all kinds of places and had Texas plates.
>He is a retired petro-chemist from Houston and now travels.  His PC800 had
>112,000 miles on it and has been to Alaska twice, Argentina once, many
>Colorado mountain passes, and has done the White Rim Trail in Utah, not
>once, not twice, but three times!

I'll bet he is a legend on the PC800 list...I lurked there for awhile and it is a
friendly place...home ben signs up...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)Kick Start on KLRs
Date: 02 Mar 1999 09:35:58 -0700

>> you will need 2 kawasaki tools. The flywheel holder and the flywheel
>puller.


Does anyone think we could start a list tool loaner thing? Like find someone with
impeccable credentials like Hiro, for example, and have them volunteer to be the
"bank", have listers donate or loan tools to the bank or start a fund for purchases,
then listers needing the tools pay for costs of shipping and maybe guarantee it with a
money order that is returned when the tool is?...Seems like I lurked on a list where
this kind of proposal caused a near riot which I could never figure out...maybe
someone was trying to make a profit...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650)Kick Start on KLRs
Date: 02 Mar 1999 11:38:04 -0500

I've got piles of expensive specialty tools myself, I know what you mean. I
dont think I could trust anyone I didnt personally know with them though,
and I expect that to be the case with most listers that have the tools. Nice
idea, but I dont see any easy way to do what you want :/



>> you will need 2 kawasaki tools. The flywheel holder and the flywheel
>puller.


Does anyone think we could start a list tool loaner thing? Like find someone
with
impeccable credentials like Hiro, for example, and have them volunteer to be
the
"bank", have listers donate or loan tools to the bank or start a fund for
purchases,
then listers needing the tools pay for costs of shipping and maybe guarantee
it with a
money order that is returned when the tool is?...Seems like I lurked on a
list where
this kind of proposal caused a near riot which I could never figure
out...maybe
someone was trying to make a profit...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Visibility...NKLR
Date: 02 Mar 1999 09:41:45 -0700



>Go to:   www.seebak.com
>and check out their #SB700 vest @$29.95.
>It seems like a nice vest that won't cover-up all the pockets on your
>jacket.  I would think that this vest would be a good idea for urban
>riding.  Thanks.
>Bob Kaub
>State University of New York
>PO Box 6000
>Binghamton, NY  13902
>607-777-2715


I like the undercover job...I'd love to pull up behind someone on a Moab trail and
pull down the flap that says Sheriff...(g)

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) archive and Tachometers...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 09:46:22 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>So, I went and searched the archive (nice. very, very nice.). Tachometer fix - nada.
Tachometer -
>nada. Tach aha! 31 listings.

<SNIP>
>Anyone got a strong opinion one way or the other? *ducks quickly*
>
>:)
>Sarah


I use by tach all the time...when off-road and descending a hill I watch it to try and
keep my revs above where the compression release won't kill my bike...and, when
hot-rodding (not too often) for shift points...One of the rules of the list Sarah is
that if you can't find someone who has done the procedure "YOU ARE IT"...do it with
our support and advice...and document it...so, what do you think? Let's start with the
cable and just disconnect if from the tach head and see if it turns when the engine is
on...

Kurt (partly in jest totally in earnest)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) SuperTrapp IDS
Date: 02 Mar 1999 09:48:01 -0700



>Wow, talk about timing, I was just ready to order up an IDS quiet series
>when I read Gino's article about his can probably needing a repack after
>just 400 miles to stay quiet.  You guys (and gals) out there with this
>muffler, anybody elce had it get noticably louder after such a short period,
>or is Gino just special?  :)
>
>BG


My IDS was too quiet when new...now it is perfect...I think it is the best
available...Gino is SPECIAL though...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) oops...KLR 650 for sale is an '89
Date: 02 Mar 1999 12:05:45 EST

My bike is an '89...it is my truck that is an '87.  lol

Walter



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) '87 KLR 650...update
Date: 02 Mar 1999 12:04:39 EST

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--part0_920394279_boundary
Content-ID: <0_920394279@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Also includes:
Rally Pack (large two piece pack that fits on the sissy bar)
Large Chase Harper saddle bags

--part0_920394279_boundary
Content-ID: <0_920394279@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
Content-type: message/rfc822
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Content-disposition: inline

Return-path: <[e-mail]>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

'89 KLR 650
30k
stainless brake lines
jet kit
K&N air filter
    includes one extra
K&P oil filter (top of the line)
Avon Gripsters - like new
Fresh discs and pads
Supertrapp exhaust
Driveline
    steel braces for soft saddlebags
    center stand
Kawasaki KLR 650 tank bag
bungee net
custom ski rack...yes, a custom ski rack
custom sissy par
Travelcade gel pad, small, ininstalled
Partial case of Castrol 4 stroke motorcycle oil
9 spark plugs
Ancra soft hooks
Maxima chain lube

Runs great

Located in Denver, CO

Price...make me an offer.

Walter

--part0_920394279_boundary--



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Winslow <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: Mainland...bike advice F650 vs. KLR
Date: 02 Mar 1999 12:19:35 -0500 (EST)

Regarding the discussion about the KLR and the F650, I, too, do not have a
dual purpose bike at the moment, but have been longing for one for quite a
bit now. (My second motorcycle was a 1983 Honda XL350. I loved that bike.)
I've been going back and forth about the F650 and the KLR. I liked the
point that if you drop your F650 in the dirt you might end up crying.
That's something to consider.

One area that I'd like some feedback on is the suitability of the KLR for
carrying a passenger. My wife has her own bike, but sometimes it's more
convenient to just take one. The KLR has the typical forward-sloping
dual-purpose seat which doesn't make for the best passenger comfort. What
has been the experience of others with taking passengers on the KLR?

One solution that I thought of is sending the seat to Sargent and getting
the foam reshaped to create a passenger platform like the F650 has. Doing
that is a lot cheaper than buying an F650.

Any thoughts on this subject would be welcome.

Sincerely longing for a dual-purpose,
Eric M. Winslow
'93 Suzuki GS500E




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: Re: (klr650) archive and Tachometers...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 12:20:33 -0500

Not that I ever looked, and I don't have my manual here at work, but isn't
the tach on the KLR electronic?
Mark (oops, maybe I'll go downstairs and look  now; I parked the Woods
Warrior in the building today....shhh)

SNIP
> Let's start with the
>cable and just disconnect if from the tach head and see if it turns when
>the engine is
>on...
>
>Kurt (partly in jest totally in earnest)





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650)Kick Start on KLRs
Date: 02 Mar 1999 12:11:55 EST

In a message dated 3/2/99 8:36:59 AM Pacific Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

> Does anyone think we could start a list tool loaner thing?
Perhaps I am just fortunate in the local dealers I do business with but on
more than one occasion I have borrowed a special tool such as a flywheel
puller when needed, this may be a good strategy on their part since when as
usual I screw up the job they make extra service money fixing it for me.
Seriously though, even dealers that haven't known me have loaned a specialty
tool (with an appropriate deposit) at times.  Its worth a try if you are on
speaking terms with your mechanic or service mgr.
Kurt Grife



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) archive and Tachometers...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 10:24:13 -0700




>Not that I ever looked, and I don't have my manual here at work, but isn't
>the tach on the KLR electronic?
>Mark (oops, maybe I'll go downstairs and look  now; I parked the Woods
>Warrior in the building today....shhh)
>
>SNIP
>> Let's start with the
>>cable and just disconnect if from the tach head and see if it turns when
>>the engine is
>>on...
>>
>>Kurt (partly in jest totally in earnest)


Oops...one of us is going to be embarassed...but, what the hey...it is always a good
day to learn...

Kurt (also running outside to check El Poppo)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) archive and Tachometers...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 10:33:26 -0700

>>Not that I ever looked, and I don't have my manual here at work, but isn't
>>the tach on the KLR electronic?


yep...Sarah...first lesson..always consider the source...no cable to check..ok...list
what is troubleshooting tree for an electronic tach?

Kurt (eating crow pie)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Lower Mainland - Bike Advice F650 Review NKLR
Date: 02 Mar 1999 10:34:54 -0700

There is a F650 review here for those interested.

http://www.best.com/~citybike/content/features/f650.html

Cheers,

Vik


>>Hey Brian,
>>
>>I live in Abbotsford.  Don't have a bike right now (oh, oh, my cover's
>>blown) that would be suitable for the type of riding you're talking about
>>(it's a Valkyrie Tourer).  However, when I sell the bike a replace it with
>a
>>dual-sport I'll let you know.  I'll hang on to your name and e-mail
address
>>so when the time comes I'll be able to give you a shout.
>>
>>I found my way on to this list because one of the bikes in the running
(for
>>my purchase) is the KLR650.  I have to decide just how much off-road
>capable
>>I need the bike to be.  The KLR seems to be the best all-round choice for
>>the rider who wants something capable for both sides of the fence.  I'm
>also
>>considering the BMW F650 (I won't call it a Fu....o), Or maybe the Triumph
>>Tiger.  I won't probably won't lean more to the dirt side of things than
>the
>>KLR (ala XR650L) because of the sacrifices I'd be making in comfort and
>>capability on the street.  I see the Honda as more of a dirt bike with
>>lights.  If I wanted a really capable dirt bike I'd buy two bikes - one
for
>>the street and one to throw in the back of my truck to take to the trails.
>>The Tiger may be too street (and too heavy, and too expensive).  I like
the
>>BMW though.  A little heavier than the KLR.  A little more power.  More
>>comfortable on the street.  And still O.K. on the logging roads.  I just
>>have to be able to justify the extra cost over the KLR ($3500).
>>
>>I'd welcome any advice from people on the list.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>Arne
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Mainland...bike advice F650 vs. KLR
Date: 02 Mar 1999 10:41:48 -0700


>One area that I'd like some feedback on is the suitability of the KLR for
>carrying a passenger. My wife has her own bike, but sometimes it's more
>convenient to just take one. The KLR has the typical forward-sloping
>dual-purpose seat which doesn't make for the best passenger comfort. What
>has been the experience of others with taking passengers on the KLR?
>
>One solution that I thought of is sending the seat to Sargent and getting
>the foam reshaped to create a passenger platform like the F650 has. Doing
>that is a lot cheaper than buying an F650.


I think the F-650 would be better for two-up...but, having said that, there are a
couple of options I'm working on:

1) Tim Bernard sells a quick detach luggage rack with or w/o rear bag...his setup can
be ordered with a small or large backrest. Further, the backrest can be moved so that
is is either flush with the end of the seat or recessed an additional inch. My SO sat
on his bike in Boise and pronounced it a huge improvement. With his highway pegs the
passenger can alternate using the driver's pegs for changes in position. Finally, Tim
is going to make her a set of extensions (she is long in the seam)...

2) Russell will make a day-long seat in the KLR for a pillion and guarantee the
comfort...

3) Eldon Carl rides two-up in Baja and has a custom seat he has designed with a big
velcroed pad for his spouse that extends onto the luggage rack...

I have always thought that serious two-up riding might benefit from a Works transplant
on the rear shock...

Kurt A12




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dennis L. Williams" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) archive and Tachometers...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 11:49:29 -0600

Oops, now I remember.  That was the speedo cable that I lost last fall.
Must have shed a few brain cells this winter.  :-/   Maybe I've got too many
bikes, I'm starting to get them confused.


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR list <[e-mail]>
>Date: Monday, March 01, 1999 5:38 PM
>Subject: (klr650) archive and Tachometers...
>
>
>>
>95 KLR I bought had a couple of things that weren't exactly right with it.
>Like, for
>>instance, the tach doesn't work.
>
>This may sound like a stupid question but have you checked to see that you
>have a cable inside your cable housing?  Last fall my tach quit working
>while I was riding and I found that the cable housing had come unscrewed
>from the front wheel hub.  Bye, bye cable!  When I got my new cable I
>loctited both ends.
>
>Dennis
>98 KLR
>79XT500
>75 XL125
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: Re: (klr650) archive and Tachometers...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 12:58:59 -0500

At 10:33 AM 3/2/99, Kurt Simpson wrote:
>>>Not that I ever looked, and I don't have my manual here at work, but isn't
>>>the tach on the KLR electronic?
>
>
>yep...Sarah...first lesson..always consider the source...no cable to
>check..ok...list
>what is troubleshooting tree for an electronic tach?
>
>Kurt (eating crow pie)

Much better than cow pie.

Here's a story:

Always start with the simple... i.e., bad connection?

Around Dec. 20, '98, I had no response from the starter switch on The
Poser. I found myself beating the shit out of the switch, the starter relay
and the ignition and the bike still had no response. I ended up getting a
student to push me around 4 or 5 times to bump start the bike. When I got
home, the first thing I did was investigate the problem. I thought it MUST
be a bad starter switch. I took it apart (pain in the ass on a Tengai) only
to find that there was nothing wrong with it.  I then got out the wiring
diagram to see if there were other areas that could cause this problem.
After about 1 1/2 hrs of farting around, I discovered that the plug in
front of the steering stem that connects the whole right side handlebar
electrics to the wiring harness fell out! I guess that would explain the
intermittant brake light problem I was experiencing in the week leading
upto the starting incident.
DOY!
Mark
B2 "The Poser"
A2 "The Woods Warrior"





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
Date: 02 Mar 1999 11:59:33 -0700

I'm always apprehensive when I read of listers intentions to install Chevy
Suburban type rear cargo capacity. I travel with a pair of 35 liter Givis
and a fully expanded Chase Harper Euro-Tour tank bag. ALL the heavy stuff,
tools, books. booze, water etc.are in the tank bag. On summer mornings a
saddle bag is partially empty waiting for the Aerostich pants that will be
placed there when it heats up. If I cheat just a bit I immediately have high
speed handling problems; I pull over and repack then reclaim my great
handling "moto de batalla" as one Mexican observer described it. This way I
confidently cruise 85-90 or take the hairy (for me) Creel to Batopilas
"highway". In my experience handling problems caused by a passenger are not
severe. It sure slows you down though in more ways then one. Bogdan
> .  How is that different (better or worse) than carrying a passenger
> that weighs 120lbs and/or mounting a set of aluminum boxes such as the
> Jesse
> set up and maybe a givi top case (all loaded up of course).
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
Date: 02 Mar 1999 12:03:10 -0700

Okay Bogdan,

One thing I didn't understand.  Why does a 120-160lbs person not affect
handling, but 100lbs cause trouble?

Just trying to figure this out.

Cheers,

Vik

BTW - I am not suggesting you fill your rear luggage with lead.  Of course
heaviest item should be in the tank panniers or tank bag.


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; Peter Dahlheimer, MD <[e-mail]>;
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>In my experience handling problems caused by a passenger are not
>severe. It sure slows you down though in more ways then one. Bogdan
> .  How is that different (better or worse) than carrying a passenger
> that weighs 120lbs and/or mounting a set of aluminum boxes such as the
> Jesse
> set up and maybe a givi top case (all loaded up of course).
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
Date: 02 Mar 1999 12:09:29 -0700

I should have said....."...but 100lbs of luggage cause trouble?..."
ooopppsss!

Vik

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>Okay Bogdan,
>
>One thing I didn't understand.  Why does a 120-160lbs person not affect
>handling, but 100lbs cause trouble?
>
>Just trying to figure this out.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik
>
>BTW - I am not suggesting you fill your rear luggage with lead.  Of course
>heaviest item should be in the tank panniers or tank bag.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
>To: 'Vik Banerjee' <[e-mail]>; Tim Bernard
><[e-mail]>; Peter Dahlheimer, MD <[e-mail]>;
>[e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 11:58 AM
>Subject: RE: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
>
>
>>In my experience handling problems caused by a passenger are not
>>severe. It sure slows you down though in more ways then one. Bogdan
>> .  How is that different (better or worse) than carrying a passenger
>> that weighs 120lbs and/or mounting a set of aluminum boxes such as the
>> Jesse
>> set up and maybe a givi top case (all loaded up of course).
>>
>
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
Date: 02 Mar 1999 12:44:27 -0800

>If I bolt a aluminum box to my rack
>and attach it at the passenger foot pegs - then I load it with say 100lbs
of
>gear.  How is that different (better or worse) than carrying a passenger
>that weighs 120lbs and/or mounting a set of aluminum boxes such as the
Jesse
>set up and maybe a givi top case (all loaded up of course).


From what I've been able to gather, in reading the various posts, and unless
you are referring to e-mails sent directly to you, no one has referred to
the overload on the back rack since you mentioned that the mounting was
going to be integrated with the passenger footpegs.  If I understand what
I've read correctly, the concerns were made in the beginning when you
originally posted your idea with the rear rack bearing ALL of the weight,
and not having the load spread to the pegs.

>Some people have commented
>that my idea for a integrated topcase/side boxes would be bad for the KLR's
>frame, I would be very appreciative of any input on this.


I think you are referring to the following post where "PETE" describes
carrying 10 gallons of water exclusively on the back of his bike, and then
"TIM" says that he was lucky - saying that "we have had to weld frames and
repair broken bolts".

If I could suggest something.  If the bolts are a point of weakness, then it
should be a simple matter to replace the rack bolts with matching ones of a
higher grade.

Arne


>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tim Bernard <[e-mail]>
>To: Peter Dahlheimer, MD <[e-mail]>;
>[e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 8:27 AM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
>
>
>>You are lucky. We have had to weld frames & repair broken bolts.
>>
>>>i realize the limit on the luggage rack is only like 30 pounds, but i've
>>>taken my chances numerous times without a problem.  while camping, i have
>>>numerous times lugged a large water container (about 10 gallons, whatever
>>>that weighs) tucked inside my ActionPacker up a rough dirt hill without
>>>going over backwards or damaging the bike.
>>>
>>>_pete





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Brian Schoonveld" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) twin carb's?
Date: 02 Mar 1999 16:23:12 -0500

----->  Vik writes:

          There is a F650 review here for those interested.

http://www.best.com/~citybike/content/features/f650.html


This is in the article:

The Funduro's motor is truly exceptional. The twin-cam, four-valve,
twin-carb, 48 hp Rotax...............

........Here's the dumb question of the day - - how is a single piston
engine set-up with twin-carbs?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Mainland...bike advice F650 vs. KLR
Date: 02 Mar 1999 16:30:39 +0000

Eric,

My wife is an excellent passenger.  She's tall though and complains that
the luggage rack intrudes on her space. She is not one to complain much
and has already proven herself on the back of a Ninja 750R by going from
Old Saybrook, CT to Lake George N.Y., and back with me in two days for
the Americade East some years back.  My oldest daughter is a good
passenger also and says the rack is a pain.  It's OK for about an hour
but any longer than that and it becomes uncomfortable.  I thought about
bulking up the seat or putting some foam on the front edge of the rack,
but since my 2nd daughter came along my wife hasn't had time to ride
with me that much anyways.  However I'll be getting a (for real this
time) Sporster next year and am going to make sure I get the most
comfortable seat in their accessories catalogue.  I may consider a
Mustang or Corbin but the Harley Touring Seat looks good.

So I've kind of given up on using the KLR for real long two up riding
because of the luggage rack interference.  It's not the buzz or the leg
position that bothers my passengers, its the fact that the seat is about
2 inches too short and the front edge of the rack pressures the tail
bone.  I purchased a Travelcade Saddle Gel cushion for myself and it
helps on long hauls because my bike is about 10 years old and the rider
portion of the seat isn't what it used to be.  I considered buying the
passenger cushion from them thinking that it might bridge the gap
between the back of the seat and the front of the rack but haven't done
so thus far so can't tell you if it will cure the situation or not.  If
I do decide to get one I'll post the results here.  But I can tell you
that if the seat foam compresses in front of the luggage rack it will
still leave a step that the gel cushion may not be able to insulate or
dampen adequately.

Ride on,

Jeff

P.S.  If I was Kawasaki I'd make the seat a little longer and hinge it
so that you could flip it up to get to wiring, battery, owners manual,
registration, and perhaps a tool pack storage area.  Having the tool
pack where it is on the luggage rack means if you have a bunch of stuff
tied down you can't readily get to it.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Brian Schoonveld" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) universal deficiencies.........
Date: 02 Mar 1999 16:42:10 -0500


------> There is a F650 review here for those interested.
http://www.best.com/~citybike/content/features/f650.html

In the above link'd article, the author laments:

------->This experience, of course, got me thinking about what could I do to
the F650 to improve it. First, I'd send forks and shock to Lindemann's for
some stiffer springs and better valving. Second, I'd ditch the 75 lbs.
exhaust. Let it breathe, let it bark. Third, I'd uprate both the brakes and
the rubber. Fourth, I'd attack some of the plastic bits and make the bike
look less like an appliance. Fifth, I'd put some ProTapers on... hey, this
getting to be fun...............


Sounds familiar ..... springs, forks, exhaust, tires, BRAKES!!   To me, yet
another reason for a KLR.   You'd think there'd be no problems in these
areas as a benefit of spending $3000 more for the beamer!    Fred, I think
you need to expand your parts bins.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) twin carb's?
Date: 02 Mar 1999 13:43:43 -0800

>........Here's the dumb question of the day - - how is a single piston
>engine set-up with twin-carbs?

Four-valve head has two intake ports, one for each carb.  It's a nice setup
with great throttle response, a little expensive, and the two carbs tend to
block airflow around the head.  The '83-'87 XL Hondas and the XR600s up to
'86 had two carbs.   It was much nicer on the trails than the singlecarb.
Several of the XT Yamahas had the twin setup several years back.  The XTs
had a funky setup where the little primary carb sucked offa the big carb's
float (only one float between the two separate carbs)

Tom


+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Winslow <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Mainland...bike advice F650 vs. KLR
Date: 02 Mar 1999 16:58:33 -0500 (EST)

On Tue, 2 Mar 1999, Kurt Simpson wrote:

>
> I think the F-650 would be better for two-up...but, having said that, there are a
> couple of options I'm working on:
>
> 1) Tim Bernard sells a quick detach luggage rack with or w/o rear bag...his setup can
> be ordered with a small or large backrest. Further, the backrest can be moved so that
> is is either flush with the end of the seat or recessed an additional inch. My SO sat
> on his bike in Boise and pronounced it a huge improvement. With his highway pegs the

That rack sounds intriguing. Do you know of any pictures of it with the
backrest? If I do get the KLR I'll probably look to get contact info for
Tim Bernard.

> 2) Russell will make a day-long seat in the KLR for a pillion and
guarantee the
> comfort...

That sounds like a good possibility, too.

Thanks for the info. The $3000 saved by buying the KLR gives plenty of
room for doing little customizations to make it just what you need.

Eric




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Winslow <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Mainland...bike advice F650 vs. KLR
Date: 02 Mar 1999 16:58:48 -0500 (EST)

<response from Jeff snipped>

Thanks much for the detailed response. My wife and I are both small (5'6''
and under) so maybe we'd have more room to work with on that seat. Padding
that rack somehow might help.

Well, thanks for the response. You've given me some good info.

Eric





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Paul Christenson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) twin carb's? (now NKLR)
Date: 02 Mar 1999 14:22:53 PST

>Several of the XT Yamahas had the twin setup several years back.  The
>XTs had a funky setup where the little primary carb sucked offa the
>big carb's float (only one float between the two separate carbs)

Right.. the YDIS (Yamaha Dual Intake System, I believe).  The primary
reason I sold my XT550.

Mine had a funny habit of dropping power about 30% from time to time;
usually at highway speeds.  Instant change, like someone flipping a
switch.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) F650 Dakar Winner on BMW ON Cover
Date: 02 Mar 1999 17:31:09 -0500

On the cover of this month's BMW ON
magazine is a picture of the F650 that
won the Dakar race.

With all the discussion of rear racks,
load limits, and weight distribution,
I was interested to see what appear to
be supplemental fuel tanks.  These
extra fuel tanks are located very low,
essentially on either side of the engine.


Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
Date: 02 Mar 1999 15:32:58 -0700

Vik, I'm not a real physicist but it must be the principle that Greek guy
(Archemeides?)espoused when he said he could flip a cheeseburger as big as
the world if he had a big enough spatula. Must have something to do with the
passenger being closer to the bike's center of gravity & further forward of
the rear axle. I'll give you a real life example: My bike & I were hijacked
in the deserts of Sonora a few years ago. The ladrones insisted I give them
BOTH a ride down this sandy road. When the first guy (the one with the gun)
got on it was no big deal, but when the second brute placed himself behind
him my front wheel sure felt light and my handling was severely compromised.
Bogdan


> One thing I didn't understand.  Why does a 120-160lbs person not affect
> handling, but 100lbs cause trouble?
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Tim's Racks...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 15:32:11 -0700

>> 1) Tim Bernard sells a quick detach luggage rack with or w/o rear bag...his setup
can
>> be ordered with a small or large backrest. Further, the backrest can be moved so
that
>> is is either flush with the end of the seat or recessed an additional inch. My SO
sat
>> on his bike in Boise and pronounced it a huge improvement. With his highway pegs
the


Tim is going to ship it to me shortly (right Tim?) it was Black Monday for him this
week with his accountant...but soon he'll be back to his cheerful self. When I get it,
I'll mount it and do some pics and a "First Look" for the list and webpage...a
detailed review will follow if Gino has room in DSN.

Kurt A12




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Airbox?
Date: 02 Mar 1999 15:39:45 -0800

Hi, I'm new to list list and got turned on to it by Fred at Arrowhead
Motorsports in Moab,Utah. I have a 97 KLR that I'm making a super motard
out of.I have a couple of questions. I am not going to use the airbox on
it and need to know if anyone knows aof an airfilter (K&N,etc..) that
will bolt right to the carb. The second question is what jetting changes
will be requiered from this mod? I'm in Denver (high altitude) and am
running IDS Supertrapp Muffler.Any help on these issues would be great.
Thanks,Jason




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) twin carb's? (now NKLR)
Date: 02 Mar 1999 15:33:42 -0700




>>Several of the XT Yamahas had the twin setup several years back.  The
>>XTs had a funky setup where the little primary carb sucked offa the
>>big carb's float (only one float between the two separate carbs)
>
>Right.. the YDIS (Yamaha Dual Intake System, I believe).  The primary
>reason I sold my XT550.
>
>Mine had a funny habit of dropping power about 30% from time to time;
>usually at highway speeds.  Instant change, like someone flipping a
>switch.


My '84 XT600 had a lot of power but it surged like crazy...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR Motard
Date: 02 Mar 1999 15:42:39 -0700

We have a new lister in our midst.  Welcome Jason the KLR magician.  He can
change a perfectly good motorcycle into a monster.  Jason
[e-mail] is finishing up his supermotard conversion of a
KLR and should have some photos for us to prove it soon.

What say ye Jason??

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) 88 KLR woes
Date: 02 Mar 1999 14:41:14 -0800

Hey folks!
I'm baaaaack!
Well, I'm back on the list again anyway.  My KLR is still broken.
I was putting the head back on again this weekend and noticed that the piston,
when it is a bottom dead center, has a hell of a lot of slop in the cylinder.  I
can see the rings from the top!  I can move the piston fore and aft within the
cylinder one or two millimeters!  Is this normal or do I need a new bore job and
piston?  Everything looks fine when it's at TDC, it's just at the bottom it's
all loose.  I think this implies that I have too much taper in the cylinder but
the service manual doesn't seem to have specs for this.

It looks like this engine uses a steel liner in an aluminum jug.  Is this the
case?  Can I replace the liner and rings and just call it a day?

Thanks folks!

BTW, is MOAB happening again this year?
Cheers!
Beez





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alan Henderson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Spotting
Date: 02 Mar 1999 17:05:50 -0600


>Alan would you be able to post this for me on your webpage for a couple
>weeks?  File attached of the box I am building for my KLR and its
>approximate dimensions.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik

The picture of the box Vik is having made is posted at:
http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/box.jpg




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Tim's Racks...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 15:51:24 -0700

>>When I get it,
I'll mount it and do some pics and a "First Look" for the list and
webpage...a
detailed review will follow if Gino has room in DSN.<<

Plenty of room.  Starting with the May-June/1999 issue, DSN will be 24 pages
instead of the usual 20.

gino




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tim's Racks...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 18:25:20 +0000

Kurt,

If the new rack/backrest is a bolt on replacement for the existing rack,
makes it more roomy and comfortable for passengers, has storage for the
tool pack, and is reasonably priced then I think it certainly should be
in the DSN.  If you or Gino provided pictures of the rack and backrest,
any adjustment features, areas of comfort improvement (more space), and
order information it would be great.  It may be the answer a lot of
people who ride more road than dirt have been looking for.  I think the
KLR is one hell of a machine, but have always expected more in the way
of passenger accomodations.

Ride on,

Jeff



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) F650 Dakar Winner on BMW ON Cover
Date: 02 Mar 1999 15:56:12 -0700

>>On the cover of this month's BMW ON
magazine is a picture of the F650 that
won the Dakar race.<<

I know. My BMW buddies have been rubbing my face in it. The only solace I
have is that it is not a BMW and it bears absolutely no resemblance to what
they have on the showroom floor and they called it an F650 just to sell
their slow moving single.

Gino, venting again, Pokluda




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Spotting
Date: 02 Mar 1999 18:29:17 -0500

It may be a good idea to have some sort of quick release system that allows
you to remove the whole box and put it over your shoulder to bring into
hotels (it must hold a lot of stuff to move individually)

-----Original Message-----


>
>>Alan would you be able to post this for me on your webpage for a couple
>>weeks?  File attached of the box I am building for my KLR and its
>>approximate dimensions.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>Vik
>
>The picture of the box Vik is having made is posted at:
>http://www.ames.net/al.henderson/box.jpg
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bill Haycock <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Supertrapp Article
Date: 02 Mar 1999 17:19:14 -0500

The URL is:

http://www.dualsport.org/page5.html

Bill (who thinks everyone in the world MUST know about the Dual Sport Web
Page!)

"J.P.Zucht" wrote:

> Bill Haycock wrote:
>
> > Just posted an article Gino had written on the Supertrapp IDS Series
> > Muffler for the KLR.
>
> > Can be found at KLR Page, Accessories and ad-ons.
>
> > Bill
>
> Hey, Bill, how 'bout a free tip? (and worth everything ya paid fer it)
>
> When you put a message like this on the list there may be some of us
> dummies who forget to bookmark these things...or some newbie who just
> stumbled in...how about posting the 'URL' with the message...each time =
?
>
> cha-ching  2=A2 (Cdn)
>
> (and BTW, THANKS for the KLR page!  I've learned more about my KLR on
> this list (and the KLR page and links) in the last few months than in 2
> years of owning it !!!)  (Also spending more money on it than I ever
> dreamed I might, thanks to all those dang articles!!!)  <VBG>
>
> phil






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tim's Racks...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 17:15:22 -0700

>If the new rack/backrest is a bolt on replacement for the existing rack,
>makes it more roomy and comfortable for passengers, has storage for the
>tool pack, and is reasonably priced then I think it certainly should be
>in the DSN.

It is not a replacement...it is in addition...it uses quick-release clips and can be
on/off in seconds..pretty nifty...I'm gently trying to talk Tim into making it with
the same sexy black "aircraft" aluminum that the Top of the Line Rack uses...adds a
certain cachet...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tim's Racks...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 19:29:29 +0000

Kurt,

Even chrome or polished aluminum would be OK.  If the backrest is tall
enough it would provide a nice support to secure a bag to.

Jeff



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey P Moorbeck <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) F650 Dakar Winner on BMW ON Cover
Date: 02 Mar 1999 17:40:29 -0700 (MST)

On Tue, 2 Mar 1999, Rob Tayloe wrote:

> On the cover of this month's BMW ON
> magazine is a picture of the F650 that
> won the Dakar race.
>
> With all the discussion of rear racks,
> load limits, and weight distribution,
> I was interested to see what appear to
> be supplemental fuel tanks.  These
> extra fuel tanks are located very low,
> essentially on either side of the engine.
>
>
> Ride Safely,
> Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>

Does anyone know what other mods were made to this bike for the race? I'm
assuming it wasn't bone stock.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) luggage rack load limit - NKLR
Date: 02 Mar 1999 17:34:22 -0700

Have a look at the middle pic on this page if you want to see a couple
overloaded bikes!

http://www.geocities.com/Baja/9832/

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>


Vik, I'm not a real physicist but it must be the principle that Greek guy
(Archemeides?)espoused when he said he could flip a cheeseburger as big as
the world if he had a big enough spatula. Must have something to do with the
passenger being closer to the bike's center of gravity & further forward of
the rear axle. I'll give you a real life example: My bike & I were hijacked
in the deserts of Sonora a few years ago. The ladrones insisted I give them
BOTH a ride down this sandy road. When the first guy (the one with the gun)
got on it was no big deal, but when the second brute placed himself behind
him my front wheel sure felt light and my handling was severely compromised.
Bogdan


> One thing I didn't understand.  Why does a 120-160lbs person not affect
> handling, but 100lbs cause trouble?
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alan Henderson <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 02 Mar 1999 18:50:17 -0600

So, is the guy who bought his A13 at Adams Cycles in Nevada Iowa and
promptly rode it to Reno Nevada and back on this list?
                          Alan Henderson, Iowa A13




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tim's Racks...
Date: 02 Mar 1999 17:44:39 -0700



>Kurt,
>
>Even chrome or polished aluminum would be OK.  If the backrest is tall
>enough it would provide a nice support to secure a bag to.
>
>Jeff


He has them in brushed alum...the small one is about 6" and the larger about twice
that...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) New GearCalc rev at www.ironjungle.com
Date: 02 Mar 1999 19:50:50 -0500


--openmail-part-1929680d-00000001
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name="BDY.TXT"
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="BDY.TXT"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


A few internationals have requested that GearCalc output the velocity data in
MPH and Km/H (instead of just MPH).  To meet this overwhelming [ ;) ] demand,
The Iron Jungle software labs have been working full bore to update GearCalc.

GearCalc Ver. 2.20 is now on the Iron Jungle website.  GearCalc Ver. 2.20
allows you to select your output in MPH or Km/H format.

The address is: www.ironjungle.com
 While you are there, download KLR ShimCalc.   Both programs are 100% freeware.

The description for GearCalc is:
Ever wonder... The bike's RPM at 60MPH/KmH? The bike's engine RPM when cruising
down the highway? How will adding a tooth to the rear sprocket effect the top
end? What gear ratios are right for the new track? The bike's top end at
redline? Is putting on a taller tire a good idea? Wonder no more!

Welcome to GearCalc!

GearCalc has a standard Windows point and click interface that allows you view
graphically RPM vs. MPH/KmH for your specific motorcycle gear ratio set up.

Requires Windows 3.x, Windows 95, or Windows NT

Enjoy,
Pat
Austin, TX
1997 w/ 10.6K miles

--openmail-part-1929680d-00000001--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #79
Date: 02 Mar 1999 20:25:51 EST

In a message dated 3/2/99 9:22:35 AM Pacific Standard Time, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

> Let's start with the
>  cable and just disconnect if from the tach head and see if it turns when
the
> engine is
>  on...

I think you will find the tach is electronic not mechanical like the speedo.
Unless you mean the electric cable (wire)?

Gary



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Dakar Article
Date: 02 Mar 1999 20:55:07 -0500

While this ain't strictly on KLR650s, it may
never-the-less be of interest to fans of 650
thumpers.

The BMW ON cover with the Dakar winning
bike and accompanying article can be found at:

http://home.earthlink.net/~nukemoto/motopix/on0399.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~nukemoto/motopix/page1.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~nukemoto/motopix/page2.jpg


Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Message from Juan..part I
Date: 02 Mar 1999 19:15:51 -0700

|Robert,
|
|(Deep breath)  Okay, here's the best scoop I can give you.  Before I go
|into it I would like to emphasize to all of you that nothing is ever
|concrete in Latin America.  Much of what you're told (or what is done
|for you) depends on who you talk to, whether or not they got laid the
|night before, etc.  Plus people don't like to commit themselves,
|especially when it comes to prices and services.  That became
|immediately apparent during my discussions with the various businesses.
|Many of the estimates will also be deliberately made on the low side,
|for obvious reasons.  I know you would like definitive statements and
|policies, but I in no way can provide those.  All I can do is give you
|folks a general idea, based on the latest greatest hearsay.  I know it
|sucks, but it's the best I can do.  Massive grain of salt factor here.
|I guess you could think of all this as being part of the adventure...
|
|The recommendations you receive from me will be primarily (90%+) based
|on my impressions concerning the above factors, i.e. the businesses that
|seemed to have a halfway set/organized fee and operating schedule.  I
|called many different "shipping" agencies...  Most of the ocean-going
|merchants are merely brokers, tracking the actual shipping companies and
|serve as middlemen for the cargo loads.  When I asked what destinations
|they serviced, they would say "anywhere."  When I asked about the
|frequency, departure dates, or transit times, I was told "it depends."
|Set specifics are few and far between.  However, everyone was in
|agreement on one thing: it would behoove you to have the bikes crated.
|Most companies (and none of the ones I spoke with) don't even ship
|uncrated vehicles anymore, for two main reasons:
|
|- The process of loading and securing individual vehicles to the ship is
|very labor intensive.
|
|- Far too many dollars and man-hours are wasted processing the various
|damage claims.
|
|Regarding the container requirement for oceanic shipping to South
|America...  Once again it's the volume of traffic thing...  Mr. Perez of
|Eurovan Movers (236-9290) was very patient in explaining this one to me
|(in excellent English).  Individual crates can be easily shipped to high
|volume destinations like Miami or LA, but any attempts to do so for
|parts south of here require a difficult (and possibly long) search for
|ships equipped to accommodate individual crates, with minimal savings.
|Crate capable ships, with their special roller systems, can accommodate
|either crates OR containers, which is why they're used for the
|high-volume routes (quicker loading and unloading).  It just doesn't pay
|to "waste" them on southbound routes, hence the need for containers, at
|a price sufficient to justify the operation ($1500-$2000 per container,
|I don't remember if that included the crating).  Another thing to think
|about is the fact that these guys tend to cater to the "big boys," i.e.
|international companies moving large amounts of freight.  I don't know
|that your business would make for much of a blip on their radar scopes.
|Something worth rememberingà  That having been said, Mr. Perez's company
|offers ocean-going service to both Cartegena, Colombia and Guayaquil,
|Ecuador.  Both crating and a container would be required at the
|previously mentioned costs.  Customs processing would also be extra
|(more on that later).  You would have to provide your own transportation
|to the shipping destination.  The separate travel thing held true for
|everyone I called, regardless of the mode (i.e. surface or air).  I
|called other surface shipping agencies, but trust me when I say his
|stood out above the rest.
|
End Part I




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Message from Juan part II
Date: 02 Mar 1999 19:16:11 -0700

|The air shipment thing looks much more promising.  Of everyone I called,
|these two agencies made the most favorable impression: ServiCarga
|(223-1144) and Girag Panama (223-8328).  Let me first start with Girag
|Panama...
|
|My point of contact was an English-speaking woman named Nadia.  Her
|company offers daily air shipments to Bogota and Cali for a stated fee
|of about $400 per bike.  Supposedly this includes crating, loading,
|unloading, and uncrating of the bikes.  Twice weekly runs encompassing
|all the same services are offered to Guayaquil, Ecuador, for a fee of
|$600.  Runs to Cartegena have been done in the past, but those are done
|only when there is enough cargo to justify it (i.e., no set schedule).
|The phone book listed the following e-mail address:
|
|                        [e-mail]
|
|When working with ServiCarga I spoke to a woman named Lille (pronounced
|"LEE-ye," ext 124).  Daily flights to Bogota were quoted to me for an
|amount of $275 per along with a $20 handling charge (?). Quito runs are
|done twice a week for a fee of $250, with the same handling charge.
|Crating is required for all shipments.  She estimated it to be $50-60
|per bike (this also includes loading, unloading, and de-crating).  Hers
|is the company that can provide a "head start" of sorts if presented
|with copies of the title and registration (only copies needed, no
|originals required).
|
|Whatever you decide to do, your bikes will have to be processed through
|export customs.  The fact that it's a private vehicle does not matter.
|Nor does it matter that you're only passing through, or that it's
|registered in the United States.  All vehicles departing from any of
|Panama's ports or airports have to be processed through export customs.
|For the unversed it can be a long and frustrating process.  For my trip
|to Costa Rica it took me four full days to get an "exit visa" for my
|bike- and that was travelling over land!
|
|Through all my calls I came up with a customs broker by the name of
|Alberto Cardelini, recommended by no less than three individuals.  His
|office phone is 229-4210, and his personal cel phone number is 612-5055.
|His stated fee was $75 per bike, with a time requirement of 2 to 3 days
|to process all three bikes.  Some of the other places offer customs
|processing for an extra charge (everything is an extra charge) but I
|don't remember which ones in particular, nor their rates.  I decided not
|to pursue that information any further once I noticed his referral
|trend.  I do however remember being told by various people that his
|rates and service are as good as it gets.
|
|Regarding the Colombia thing (to go or not to go)... Just today I sat in
|on another intelligence brief describing the current situation down
|there.  Much more specific than the State Department warnings, they go
|into great detail and list dates, locations, nature of incidents,
|nationalities and numbers of people involved, etc.  They're also very
|current (and classified).  Suffice it to say the environment is very
|"hot" down there, especially so for Americans.  I know the idea of
|bypassing a country sucks but in my humble opinion it's just not worth
|the level of risk (as I know it to be) you would have to assume in order
|to go there.  Especially when you guys consider the fact it's only ONE
|COUNTRY among 8 or 9 others you're going to be able to see and enjoy.  I
|love a little risk and adventure as much as the next guy, but believe me
|once this Panamanian bureaucracy gets a hold of you there'll be plenty
|enough to go around.  The horror!
|
|Will wrap this up for now gentlemen.  This is all the stuff worth
|relaying to you, the result of many calls to about 5 surface and 6 air
|freight companies.  I know you may be curious to know every last detail
|of every last call made to every last agency but trust me when I say
|this is everything worth knowing (plus my level of work to your level of
|benefit wouldn't justify it).  Hope this helps...
|
|Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
|"The Happy Hooligan"
|
|
|
|______________________________________________________
|Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
|
|




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Frey" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) oops...KLR 650 for sale is an '89
Date: 02 Mar 1999 21:23:13 -0500

So, how much was the truck?  :->
-----Original Message-----


>My bike is an '89...it is my truck that is an '87.  lol
>
>Walter
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Zeliff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) F650 Dakar Winner on BMW ON Cover
Date: 02 Mar 1999 22:12:01 -0500

yep...the BMW  is a special...not very close to a Funduro...BUT...where
where the KLRs in the Dakar?

Bob
A10
-----Original Message-----


>>>On the cover of this month's BMW ON
>magazine is a picture of the F650 that
>won the Dakar race.<<
>
>I know. My BMW buddies have been rubbing my face in it. The only solace I
>have is that it is not a BMW and it bears absolutely no resemblance to what
>they have on the showroom floor and they called it an F650 just to sell
>their slow moving single.
>
>Gino, venting again, Pokluda
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alex Jomarron <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Darien Gap
Date: 02 Mar 1999 22:04:42 -0600

There is NO road through the Darien. 2 motorcyclists have gone through. =
Helge Pedersen and the deceased Ed Culberson. Ed has a book, Obsessions =
Die Hard, available through Whitehorse Press. Helge has one titled 10 =
Years on @ Wheels that covers that portion of his epic ride. The road =
will not be built because of the tremendous cost due to the terrain and =
the economies of both countries. If you want to go through the gap, it =
can be done, but only by Indiana Jones.......



Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL USA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) F650 Dakar Winner on BMW ON Cover
Date: 02 Mar 1999 23:02:05 EST

In a message dated 3/2/99 8:19:33 PM Mountain Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< BUT...where
 where the KLRs in the Dakar? >>

Yada, yada, yada.  Where were the Hondas and Suzukis for that matter.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (NKLR)re: twin carbs
Date: 02 Mar 1999 21:31:06

>Here's the dumb question of the day - - how is a single piston
>engine set-up with twin-carbs?
>

Here's a dumber answer.

One "carb" is the carburetor.  The other "carb" is the accessory Ruger
Mini-14 carbine which not only gets one honorary membership into Vik's
North American Combat Motorcycle Touring Club but also allows the owner to
claim his/her successful negotiation of the Darien Gap or the P-D Rally.
BMW will place "custom" accessory bullet holes in the plastic for effect,
at only $278.99 per hole.

Guy (No, really I love beemers) Cheney




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Leslie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Install of Acerbis rally guards...
Date: 03 Mar 1999 23:46:56 -0500

Here's the dumb question of the day - - how is a single piston engine set-up
with twin-carbs?
The '83-'87 XL Hondas and the XR600s up to '86 had two carbs.   It was much
nicer on the trails than the singlecarb. Tom

     I installed a set of blue MSR mulit-grips..then the Acerbis rally
guards with spoilers the other day...about $75.00 for the whole set up...lil
more than mail order price...but within hand range at the counter...It was a
pretty easy job and the blue color of the guards matche the old
Blue/Green/White paint scheme on the bike....Only hitch was that I had to
saw the lil knob off the end of the clutch lever to get a full range of
motion...I could get the full range of motion without cutting off the end,
but the lever was at such an angle (had to move it down handlebar a bit)
that it hurt my hand to hold in at stop lights and what not....so I
repositioned it and cut off the tip...works fine...I then installed a set of
blue Lever Skins to help with the gripping....works fine so far...haven't
tried them in the woods yet..but the spoilers do help keep the wind off the
digits...i'll update later....Anybody have anyexperience with the fold-up
Dual Sport mirrors that are in the Dennis Kirk dirt catalog...?

P.S.  I have an '85 XR350R..(beat to hell) with dual carbs...pretty nice
except when it comes to cleaning and rebuilding time...far as I can see i'd
rather have my "big" MilliMeter single carb...atleast when it comes to
maint. time...Les...89' KLR650, 96Kat750, 88NX250, 85XR350R....




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Mainland...bike advice F650 vs. KLR
Date: 02 Mar 1999 21:22:35 PST

Eric,

I test rode the F650 before buying the KLR. The "passenger platform" is =
good with a passenger, but not good without one. I could not slide back =
in the seat with the F650's seat to get comfortable. Since I ride 95%  =
one up, the KLR seat style is best suited for me. When riding 2 up, there=
 definitely is a tendency for the passager to slid forward on the KLR.

Alex

----------
> Regarding the discussion about the KLR and the F650, I, too, do not hav=
e a
> dual purpose bike at the moment, but have been longing for one for quit=
e a
> bit now. (My second motorcycle was a 1983 Honda XL350. I loved that bik=
e.)
> I've been going back and forth about the F650 and the KLR. I liked the
> point that if you drop your F650 in the dirt you might end up crying.
> That's something to consider.
>
> One area that I'd like some feedback on is the suitability of the KLR =
for
> carrying a passenger. My wife has her own bike, but sometimes it's more
> convenient to just take one. The KLR has the typical forward-sloping
> dual-purpose seat which doesn't make for the best passenger comfort. =
What
> has been the experience of others with taking passengers on the KLR?
>
> One solution that I thought of is sending the seat to Sargent and getti=
ng
> the foam reshaped to create a passenger platform like the F650 has. Doi=
ng
> that is a lot cheaper than buying an F650.
>
> Any thoughts on this subject would be welcome.
>
> Sincerely longing for a dual-purpose,
> Eric M. Winslow
> '93 Suzuki GS500E
>
>
>






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Brian Schoonveld" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) what a trip!!
Date: 03 Mar 1999 00:35:42 -0500





------>   Thanks to Vic for his post and story link

I had enjoyed the story series on the guys riding through South America, and
the story about the guy & gal riding up through Alaska..........and trying
to appreciate how physically tough it would be to make those rides.   The
following link, however, has presented a story which has raised the bar of
motorcycling toughness and adventurism ........ makes the thought of a 100
mile interstate trek meaningless!

http://www.geocities.com/Baja/9832/






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) what a trip!!
Date: 02 Mar 1999 22:45:53 -0800

Hey I just posted that link to highlight their heavy loaded bikes!  Keep in
mind that they are riding 400cc Japanese versions of the Transalp.
Remarkably, they had no mechanicals of note.  Great trip!  The only problem
is it makes a trip to Baja or Inuvik seem a little ordinary..lol..oh
well....Sir Edmund Hillary I am not.

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>
>
>
>
>------>   Thanks to Vic for his post and story link
>
>I had enjoyed the story series on the guys riding through South America,
and
>the story about the guy & gal riding up through Alaska..........and trying
>to appreciate how physically tough it would be to make those rides.   The
>following link, however, has presented a story which has raised the bar of
>motorcycling toughness and adventurism ........ makes the thought of a 100
>mile interstate trek meaningless!
>
>http://www.geocities.com/Baja/9832/
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) F650 Dakar Winner on BMW ON Cover
Date: 02 Mar 1999 23:00:08 -0800

>Does anyone know what other mods were made to this bike for the race? I'm
>assuming it wasn't bone stock.
>
>Jeff



No it wasn't.  I can't remember which article I read - might have been a
link from www.motorworld.com/Welcome.html

I do remember that the bike was producing in the nieghborhood of 75 hp
though.

Arne [is that which we call a rose (or a BMW Gino) by any other name still
not as sweet (or something like that)] Larsen




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bill Wright <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Nolan N100
Date: 03 Mar 1999 07:05:46 -0500

Gino,

I understand that there are now 2 different models of N100 helmets.  MAW
sells the original for about $150 and the new model for about $190.
Have you heard about the new model?  What is the difference between
these helmets? (Other than $40)  :-)

Bill Wright
Hotlanta, GA.
98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 22,300 miles




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) XR dual carb bikes
Date: 03 Mar 1999 07:48:07 -0500

the old XL's and XR's with the rfvc motor had 2 intake and 2 exhuast ports..
the rfvc motor sets the valves up radially (radial four valve combustion)in
the cylinder and this pushed the ports out a little. they could have just
made one combined port on either end but they didnt do that until later on.
One carb handles low throttle openings, the second handles the rest. If you
open them up youll notice one carb doesnt have a slow jet. A problem with
the dual carb bikes was that the manifold was prone to cracking and having
vacuum leaks. Also the valvetrains on the rfvc bikes can be expensive to
replace if you cook it with high heat and a bad oil pump. dont ask me how I
know this. ;p

Here's the dumb question of the day - - how is a single piston engine set-up
with twin-carbs?
The '83-'87 XL Hondas and the XR600s up to '86 had two carbs.   It was much
nicer on the trails than the singlecarb. Tom





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) 88 KLR woes
Date: 03 Mar 1999 07:57:18 -0500

You're supposed to have some piston to cyl wall clearance, but not excessive
amounts. you need some gap for an oil film on the cyl wall. Your manual will
list the clearances and you can make sure you have the correct piston for
your cyl bore dimensions. Did you measure everything with micrometers?
theres a pile of measurements I'd take when doing the head on a bike.

Hey folks!
I'm baaaaack!
Well, I'm back on the list again anyway.  My KLR is still broken.
I was putting the head back on again this weekend and noticed that the
piston,
when it is a bottom dead center, has a hell of a lot of slop in the
cylinder.  I
can see the rings from the top!  I can move the piston fore and aft within
the
cylinder one or two millimeters!  Is this normal or do I need a new bore job
and
piston?  Everything looks fine when it's at TDC, it's just at the bottom
it's
all loose.  I think this implies that I have too much taper in the cylinder
but
the service manual doesn't seem to have specs for this.

It looks like this engine uses a steel liner in an aluminum jug.  Is this
the
case?  Can I replace the liner and rings and just call it a day?

Thanks folks!

BTW, is MOAB happening again this year?
Cheers!
Beez





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Install of Acerbis rally guards...NKLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 07:24:54 -0700

|
|P.S.  I have an '85 XR350R..(beat to hell) with dual carbs...pretty nice
|except when it comes to cleaning and rebuilding time...far as I can see i'd
|rather have my "big" MilliMeter single carb...atleast when it comes to
|maint. time...Les...89' KLR650, 96Kat750, 88NX250, 85XR350R....


I thought '85 was the only year they made the 350XR with a single carb?!...that's the way it
was on mine...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) 88 KLR woes
Date: 03 Mar 1999 07:44:49 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>You're supposed to have some piston to cyl wall clearance, but not
excessive
>amounts. you need some gap for an oil film on the cyl wall. Your manual
will
>list the clearances and you can make sure you have the correct piston for
>your cyl bore dimensions. Did you measure everything with micrometers?
>theres a pile of measurements I'd take when doing the head on a bike.
>
>Hey folks!
>I'm baaaaack!
>Well, I'm back on the list again anyway.  My KLR is still broken.
>I was putting the head back on again this weekend and noticed that the
>piston,
>when it is a bottom dead center, has a hell of a lot of slop in the
>cylinder.  I
>can see the rings from the top!  I can move the piston fore and aft within
>the
>cylinder one or two millimeters!  Is this normal or do I need a new bore
job
>and
>piston?  Everything looks fine when it's at TDC, it's just at the bottom
>it's
>all loose.  I think this implies that I have too much taper in the cylinder
>but
>the service manual doesn't seem to have specs for this.
>
>It looks like this engine uses a steel liner in an aluminum jug.  Is this
>the
>case?  Can I replace the liner and rings and just call it a day?
>
>Thanks folks!
>
>BTW, is MOAB happening again this year?
>Cheers!
>Beez
>
>
>
>

Moab is always happening!!  Oh, you mean the rally?  Yes the Moab Get-
together will be June 3-6 this year.  Be there or be square!

I must apologize for my email service.  I have only been getting about 1/3
of my messages from my ISP.  Am I the only one that sees replied to letters
that you never have seen before?  If I haven't replied to a direct question,
please try it again.

Back to the engine questions.....  One reason that you will see more
clearance with your piston at BDC (bottom dead center) is that
piston/cylinder clearance is measured at the bottom of the skirt of the
piston and the top of the cylinder just below where the rings stop running.
That will be the maximum diameter of the piston and the largest wear of the
cylinder.  Take a feeler gauge and insert between the piston while it is
upside down in the bore of the cylinder.  Push the piston down in the bore
till the skirt it below the top of the cylinder.  Measure in several
different places and this will give you a pretty accurate measure of the
clearance.  I am sure that the service manual has the specs for this but I
don't have "the book" in front of me.  I would guess it to be around .0015"
to .002"   Maximum service should be somewhere around .015"  If you have
more than the service limit you will need to have the cylinder rebored and a
new oversize piston and rings.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                    Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW*
                           435-259-7356
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
Date: 03 Mar 1999 08:10:55 -0700

The bolts I am referring to thread in to the rear frame tube. they need to
be removed & then you drill through the tube & replace with longer bolts
with nylocs. This should be done to all KLRs.
Happy Trails
-----Original Message-----


>>If I bolt a aluminum box to my rack
>>and attach it at the passenger foot pegs - then I load it with say 100lbs
>of
>>gear.  How is that different (better or worse) than carrying a passenger
>>that weighs 120lbs and/or mounting a set of aluminum boxes such as the
>Jesse
>>set up and maybe a givi top case (all loaded up of course).
>
>
>>From what I've been able to gather, in reading the various posts, and
unless
>you are referring to e-mails sent directly to you, no one has referred to
>the overload on the back rack since you mentioned that the mounting was
>going to be integrated with the passenger footpegs.  If I understand what
>I've read correctly, the concerns were made in the beginning when you
>originally posted your idea with the rear rack bearing ALL of the weight,
>and not having the load spread to the pegs.
>
>>Some people have commented
>>that my idea for a integrated topcase/side boxes would be bad for the
KLR's
>>frame, I would be very appreciative of any input on this.
>
>
>I think you are referring to the following post where "PETE" describes
>carrying 10 gallons of water exclusively on the back of his bike, and then
>"TIM" says that he was lucky - saying that "we have had to weld frames and
>repair broken bolts".
>
>If I could suggest something.  If the bolts are a point of weakness, then
it
>should be a simple matter to replace the rack bolts with matching ones of a
>higher grade.
>
>Arne
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Tim Bernard <[e-mail]>
>>To: Peter Dahlheimer, MD <[e-mail]>;
>>[e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>>Date: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 8:27 AM
>>Subject: Re: (klr650) luggage rack load limit
>>
>>
>>>You are lucky. We have had to weld frames & repair broken bolts.
>>>
>>>>i realize the limit on the luggage rack is only like 30 pounds, but i've
>>>>taken my chances numerous times without a problem.  while camping, i
have
>>>>numerous times lugged a large water container (about 10 gallons,
whatever
>>>>that weighs) tucked inside my ActionPacker up a rough dirt hill without
>>>>going over backwards or damaging the bike.
>>>>
>>>>_pete
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Install of Acerbis rally guards...
Date: 03 Mar 1999 10:45:43 EST

In a message dated 3/2/99 8:49:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

> Anybody have anyexperience with the fold-up
>  Dual Sport mirrors that are in the Dennis Kirk dirt catalog...

I and a couple of others have been pleased with the "Ken Sean" brand of
folding mirror carried by many shops.  I believe that Fred Hink has them
available.  I paid about $13.00 each at a local shop.
Kurt Grife
Aviala Beach, Ca



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Header Pipe powder coating
Date: 03 Mar 1999 09:04:42

>Spectrum Powder coating shot the header pipe in silver and treated it
>with a special heat process that brings the metal up to over 2000
>degrees. The treatment is a favorite of Bonneville guys, and Halton
>admits it might have been a bit excessive, but the little Honda's
>radiator fan never once came on after that...

The above quote is from an article in Citybike.  Can somebody explain to me
the inferred relationship between powder coating the pipe and a cooler
running engine? Is this a heat sink kinda thing?  Anybody done this to a
KLR or other bike?

Yours,

Guy Cheney




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Cameron Cole <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 11:25:22 -0500

Well after a front tire blow out and a rear end collision the KLR as well as
my shoulder are no more.  The insurance company totaled the bike.

C.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 11:37:59 -0500

You should buy the bike back if the insurance offers it cheap enough. Might
be able to make some money selling it, parting it out or perhaps fixing it.
Theres lots of salvage yards with KLR parts.

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 11:25 AM


Well after a front tire blow out and a rear end collision the KLR as well as
my shoulder are no more.  The insurance company totaled the bike.

C.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Mercer <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: F650 Dakar winner
Date: 03 Mar 1999 08:49:09 -0800 (PST)

Gino wrote:

>Yada, yada, yada.  Where were the Hondas and Suzukis for that matter.
>
I recall seeing a Honda and even a Harley Davidson on the speedvision
coverage of the Dakar rally. The Harley didn't finish and I don't know how
the Honda faired. Never saw a KLR.

Eric Mercer




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Philip Allen <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 11:46:57 -0500

Greetings
I will be picking up a new KLR 650 in two weeks. Does anyone have any hints
or tips concerning things to check prior to taking delivery.
Also, I am in the S.W. Ontario Canada area and would like to locate some
riding buddies if possible.

Thanks

Phil



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 09:49:57 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Well after a front tire blow out and a rear end collision the KLR as well
as
>my shoulder are no more.  The insurance company totaled the bike.
>
>C.
>
>

Hey man are you alright?  I sure hope so!

Details,  we want DETAILS!

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Re: F650 Dakar winner
Date: 03 Mar 1999 09:49:19 -0700

>>I recall seeing a Honda and even a Harley Davidson on the speedvision
coverage of the Dakar rally. The Harley didn't finish and I don't know how
the Honda faired. Never saw a KLR.<<

There was a KLX, close enough.  It was very much like one you would see in a
showroom, come to think of it. It didn't have a factory truck following it
with spare engines and parts either.

Gino




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Header Pipe powder coating
Date: 03 Mar 1999 09:53:42 -0700


-----Original Message-----


Can somebody explain to me
>the inferred relationship between powder coating the pipe and a cooler
>running engine
>Yours,
>
>Guy Cheney
>
>
>

Your exhaust heat is held inside the exhaust pipe and exits out the rear
instead of at the head which will make your engine hotter.

Fred  (hothead...who me?!)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Cameron Cole <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 12:14:21 -0500

Not much to tell.  I was going around this sharp curve going down hill doing
about 55 with this car right on my butt.  Next thing I know the bikes front
end is all over the place in mid lean (front tire blow out).  I was using a
WW II lean style (bike upright rider lean).  Managed to get the bike
straightened up and the hit the rear brakes, but I decelerated too quickly
and the guy behind me nailed me hard.  I went flying over the hood, top, and
trunk leaving the bike jammed into the grill of the guys car.  I landed on
my shoulder and tumbled around on the road.  The driver and my bike slammed
into a curb.  Sent the bike flying and it rolled into a parking lot.
Damage:

ME:
 - Right shoulder fractured in six places, two torn tendons, one ruptured
ligament, pulled muscle, and a nasty displacement.  (Slows my typing
otherwise doing well)
 - Elbow "leather burn" from the inside of the jacket (not as bad as road
rash though.
 - A HUGE bruise that runs from shoulder to ankle on my right side.
 - Minor road rash on my left side near the hip.
 - Wounded pride.  Now referred to around the office as Crash.

Equipment:
 - Quantum Arai Helmet lost about half of its paint on the rear of the
helmet
 - Z Custom Jacket.  Skinned up, but still functional.  Basically, the right
side of the jacket is missing the first layer of leather.
 - ONeal gloves disintegrated on impact, but I managed to keep my hands
injury free.
 - Plastic Moose Knee pads are scratched.
 - Alpinestars boots scuffed badly
 - Arizona Jeans shredded, but hardly any road rash (I skidded on my back
with legs flailing.  If I had been sliding on my butt, I would have lost
serious skin.

Bike:
 - Bent frame
 - Rear rim crushed (the entire end of the bike for that matter)
 - No lights left
 - No plastic left unbroken
 - Seat ripped
 - Handlebars bent
 - Three open holes in the gas tank
 - Collapsed front forks as well as being bent
 - Cracked case (oil was everywhere)
 - Other scratches and bent items all over the bike.

The mirrors were fine (sans some scratches)!  Go figure.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fred Hink [mailto:[e-mail]]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 11:50 AM
> To: Cameron Cole; [e-mail]
> Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cameron Cole <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
> Date: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 2:31 AM
> Subject: (klr650) RIP KLR
>
>
> >Well after a front tire blow out and a rear end collision
> the KLR as well
> as
> >my shoulder are no more.  The insurance company totaled the bike.
> >
> >C.
> >
> >
>
> Hey man are you alright?  I sure hope so!
>
> Details,  we want DETAILS!
>
> Fred
>
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 12:38:34 -0500

tailgaters REALLY burn me up. I cant understand the thought process of
someone that doesnt keep at least 10 feet for 10mph distance. In a car I
could care less. But on a bike all I can think of is 'this jerk doesnt care
if he kills me!'. Need to make drivers ed. mandatory or something. Pulling
over and letting them go is tiresome too, since one tailgater is quickly
replaced by another.
Best of luck with the bike and your injuries. Sounds like his insurance
should cover some of this since he rear ended you, even though the front
tire started the accident. He should have been further away.

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 12:14 PM
Cc: '[e-mail]'


Not much to tell.  I was going around this sharp curve going down hill doing
about 55 with this car right on my butt.  Next thing I know the bikes front
end is all over the place in mid lean (front tire blow out).  I was using a
WW II lean style (bike upright rider lean).  Managed to get the bike
straightened up and the hit the rear brakes, but I decelerated too quickly
and the guy behind me nailed me hard.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Mercer <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Ben Ryan (NKLR)
Date: 03 Mar 1999 09:54:38 -0800 (PST)


Gino Wrote:
  "His PC800 had 112,000 miles on it and has been to Alaska twice, Argentina
once, many Colorado mountain passes, and has done the White Rim Trail in
Utah, not once, not twice, but three times!"

Wow! A PC800 on the white rim trail. Now there's a sight to see. I'll bet
there is a Transalp on steroids inside that body just trying to break out.

Eric Mercer




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Brian W" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) SW Ontario new purchase
Date: 03 Mar 1999 12:49:05 -0500

My 98' was delivered without having the front shocks set all the way out in
the fork clamps.  My first clue was at night, the headlight wouldn't shine
down the road even with the highbeams on.

I hate to think what would have happened if I bottomed the tire into the
fender.

The other was only an inconvenience, the starter button and the mirror
needed to be switched.

As far as riding buddies, I'm just on the other side of the boarder in Port
Huron but I have a 7-2-2-3 work schedule and go ride up-north (watch out for
the cars over here, because they won't watch for you).





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 12:38:34 -0500

tailgaters REALLY burn me up. I cant understand the thought process of
someone that doesnt keep at least 10 feet for 10mph distance. In a car I
could care less. But on a bike all I can think of is 'this jerk doesnt care
if he kills me!'. Need to make drivers ed. mandatory or something. Pulling
over and letting them go is tiresome too, since one tailgater is quickly
replaced by another.
Best of luck with the bike and your injuries. Sounds like his insurance
should cover some of this since he rear ended you, even though the front
tire started the accident. He should have been further away.

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 12:14 PM
Cc: '[e-mail]'


Not much to tell.  I was going around this sharp curve going down hill doing
about 55 with this car right on my butt.  Next thing I know the bikes front
end is all over the place in mid lean (front tire blow out).  I was using a
WW II lean style (bike upright rider lean).  Managed to get the bike
straightened up and the hit the rear brakes, but I decelerated too quickly
and the guy behind me nailed me hard.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 10:51:50 -0700

Cameron,

Sorry to hear about your accident.  Forget the bike just look after
yourself!  You can always buy another bike, but those shoulders are hard to
come by.

Any idea on the cause of the front blowout btw?

Glad that you can still post to the list.

Take care man,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>tailgaters REALLY burn me up. I cant understand the thought process of
>someone that doesnt keep at least 10 feet for 10mph distance. In a car I
>could care less. But on a bike all I can think of is 'this jerk doesnt care






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Re: Ben Ryan (NKLR)
Date: 03 Mar 1999 10:59:27 -0700

>>Wow! A PC800 on the white rim trail. Now there's a sight to see.

You got that right.  In all honesty, the bike *looked* like it had been
through the White Rim 3 times.  It was really rough, but he didn't seem to
care.

Gino




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 11:06:53 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: '[e-mail]' <[e-mail]>


>Not much to tell.  I was going around this sharp curve going down hill
doing
>about 55 with this car right on my butt.  Next thing I know the bikes front
>end is all over the place in mid lean (front tire blow out).  I was using a
>WW II lean style (bike upright rider lean).  Managed to get the bike
>straightened up and the hit the rear brakes, but I decelerated too quickly
>and the guy behind me nailed me hard.  I went flying over the hood, top,
and
>trunk leaving the bike jammed into the grill of the guys car.  I landed on
>my shoulder and tumbled around on the road.  The driver and my bike slammed
>into a curb.  Sent the bike flying and it rolled into a parking lot.
>Damage:
>
>ME:
> - Right shoulder fractured in six places, two torn tendons, one ruptured
>ligament, pulled muscle, and a nasty displacement.  (Slows my typing
>otherwise doing well)
> - Elbow "leather burn" from the inside of the jacket (not as bad as road
>rash though.
> - A HUGE bruise that runs from shoulder to ankle on my right side.
> - Minor road rash on my left side near the hip.
> - Wounded pride.  Now referred to around the office as Crash.
>
>Equipment:
> - Quantum Arai Helmet lost about half of its paint on the rear of the
>helmet
> - Z Custom Jacket.  Skinned up, but still functional.  Basically, the
right
>side of the jacket is missing the first layer of leather.
> - ONeal gloves disintegrated on impact, but I managed to keep my hands
>injury free.
> - Plastic Moose Knee pads are scratched.
> - Alpinestars boots scuffed badly
> - Arizona Jeans shredded, but hardly any road rash (I skidded on my back
>with legs flailing.  If I had been sliding on my butt, I would have lost
>serious skin.
>
>Bike:
> - Bent frame
> - Rear rim crushed (the entire end of the bike for that matter)
> - No lights left
> - No plastic left unbroken
> - Seat ripped
> - Handlebars bent
> - Three open holes in the gas tank
> - Collapsed front forks as well as being bent
> - Cracked case (oil was everywhere)
> - Other scratches and bent items all over the bike.
>
>The mirrors were fine (sans some scratches)!  Go figure.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Fred Hink [mailto:[e-mail]]
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 11:50 AM
>> To: Cameron Cole; [e-mail]
>> Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Cameron Cole <[e-mail]>
>> To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>> Date: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 2:31 AM
>> Subject: (klr650) RIP KLR
>>
>>
>> >Well after a front tire blow out and a rear end collision
>> the KLR as well
>> as
>> >my shoulder are no more.  The insurance company totaled the bike.
>> >
>> >C.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Hey man are you alright?  I sure hope so!
>>
>> Details,  we want DETAILS!
>>
>> Fred
>>
>>
>
>

Gee,  My pulled hamstring feels much better all of the sudden!  Thanks
Cameron.

I hope you have a wife or a good girlfriend to take care of you during your
recuperation.

Sorry to hear about your bike and glad to see you are still with us.  This
wreck could have been much worse.

What lessons have you learned from this?

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) XRL mirrors...Partt ##??
Date: 03 Mar 1999 11:05:01 -0700

I thought that only the XR mirrors were needed and so I ordered them.  Now I
realize the error of my ways I asked my local Honda dealer to order the
mounts as well for an XR650L....they tell me they are integrated with the
clutch and brake assemblies?  What gives?  Anyone have the Honda part
numbers so I can order just the mirror perches that people are finding
improve on the KLR's vibration prone mirrors??

Thanks,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>Gentlemen,
>
>Are we talking about the XR600L mirrors themselves or the mounts attaching
>the mirrors to the bars?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Skip Faulkner <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR650 Page <[e-mail]>
>Date: Monday, March 01, 1999 3:28 PM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) XRL mirrors...curb vibration YES...
>
>
>>>Following one of our listers advice I ordered a pair of XRL-650 mirrors
>>from Fred. He had them
>>>drop shipped to me.  I just got the bike running after the most recent
>>valve adjustment. They
>>>work! Not 100% but 90%...before my left mirror was useless now just a
hint
>>of fuzz at about
>>>4K...Thanks for the tip.
>>>
>>>Kurt
>>>Salt Lake City
>>
>>
>>Kurt,
>>    I`ve noticed that on some bikes they work and on others, they don`t.
>>Each KLR has it`s own frequency signature, so results apparently vary. I
>>remember last year when we were going over these and the Suzuki GS mirror
>>mounts, some Listers had no improvement with the Honda mounts, but they
had
>>some improvement with the Suzuki mirror mounts. I personally had no
>>improvement with the Honda mounts on my bike. Keep in mind that with temp.
>>change, there will be a change in the damping qualities. I noticed that
>>there was a worsening in blurring with the GS mounts as the temp got below
>>40degrees ( rubber getting stiff).
>>    I think that they and the GS mounts are worth trying on everyone`s
>bike,
>>they may or may not work, but you won`t know till you try.
>>
>>
>> Skip
>>
>>
>
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Cameron Cole <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 13:17:54 -0500

>
> Gee,  My pulled hamstring feels much better all of the sudden!  Thanks
> Cameron.
>
> I hope you have a wife or a good girlfriend to take care of
> you during your
> recuperation.
>
> Sorry to hear about your bike and glad to see you are still
> with us.  This
> wreck could have been much worse.
>
> What lessons have you learned from this?
>

1.  Never go riding without leather.
2.  After getting rear-ended and insulted, don't punch the other driver.
The guy didn't even ask if I was OK before he asked if I was stupid!
3.  Don't look at the bike until you have fully recovered.  OUCH!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 11:41:22 -0800

Sorry to hear!  Hope your shoulder heals up soon.
What kind of tires were you running and what do you think made it blow?

get well soon,

Arne

-----Original Message-----


>Well after a front tire blow out and a rear end collision the KLR as well
as
>my shoulder are no more.  The insurance company totaled the bike.
>
>C.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: F650 Dakar winner
Date: 03 Mar 1999 11:44:32 -0800

It didn't have a factory truck following it
>with spare engines and parts either.
>
>Gino
>

It probably did, was just moving too fast for the truck to keep it in sight
;<)

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jason Ehler <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 03 Mar 1999 14:48:39 -0500

Anyone out there order Dakar items (ie: T-shirts, sweaters etc...) from
the Granada Dakar '98 Web site?   I "snail mailed" the order form from off
the web 5 weeks ago and asked them to bill me in Canadaian funds and
still haven't got any response.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jason Ehler <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 03 Mar 1999 15:02:07 -0500

Testing testing.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Motard
Date: 03 Mar 1999 16:32:27 EST

Cool!   I would like to go to a Supermotard/SuperTT/Dirt Track look, and high
on my list is a smaller front wheel.   Is there a cheap way of doing this
(such as lacing a rear rim on the front), or am I doomed to an expensive trip
to Buchanans?

Dennis



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) RE: KLR Setup
Date: 03 Mar 1999 16:08:48 +0000

Phil wrote

> Greetings
> I will be picking up a new KLR 650 in two weeks. Does anyone have
> any hints or tips concerning things to check prior to taking
> delivery. Also, I am in the S.W. Ontario Canada area and would like
> to locate some riding buddies if possible.

Phil three things:

1 most important make sure the battery vent hose is connected.

2 The fork tube should be down all the way in the triple clamp.

3 the bolts on the "Suspension rod" (link) heads left nuts right.

If your interested I have the KLR set up manual in PDF format and I
would be willing to forward it to you if needed.

PS Is it true the new yellow graphics lighten the bike by 12 lbs and
in the horse power by 4.5 hp?  :)

Jeff Smith  Barnes, WI
'71 A-HD Sprint 350; '97 Kawasaki KLR650 (King o'La Road)
"Beware the dirt bike ... Ground shaking dirt bike" TMBG



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 15:04:12 -0800

Well you should definitely sue the living daylights out of that asshole.
He wants to know if YOU are stupid!?!?!!?!?
God that burns me up!
The accident was definitely his fault you know.  He was following much too close
for the speed.  Motorcyclists should start carrying caltrops to throw under the
tailgater's tires.

Cameron Cole wrote:

> Well after a front tire blow out and a rear end collision the KLR as well as
> my shoulder are no more.  The insurance company totaled the bike.
>
> C.






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alan Henderson <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 17:27:02 -0600

>Damage:
>
>ME:
> - Right shoulder fractured in six places, two torn tendons, one ruptured
>ligament, pulled muscle, and a nasty displacement.  (Slows my typing
>otherwise doing well)


Geez Cameron! I hope your feeling better soon. Had to be pretty frightening.
                                       Alan Henderson, Iowa A13




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 16:21:00 -0700

Amen to that. Cut the asshole another asshole. This wouldn't be frivolous
litigation. Thank God you're not dead. When you're up to it share with us
the cause of the blowout & if you were using Slime. Bogdan

> Well you should definitely sue the living daylights out of that asshole.
> He wants to know if YOU are stupid!?!?!!?!?
> God that burns me up!
> The accident was definitely his fault you know.  He was following much too
> close
> for the speed.  Motorcyclists should start carrying caltrops to throw
> under the
> tailgater's tires.
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) To: "'[e-mail]'" <[e-mail]>
Date: 03 Mar 1999 17:00:40 -0700

 I was long overdue for a brake fluid change I decided to install Russell SS
brake lines while I was at it. Thanks for the advice on fluid cleanup and
line fillup/bleeding. I think I'll try Mr. T's piston pumping method next
time I change pads. It'll be an incentive to change the fluid when that job
is due. This time I tried Bill Wright's by way of J. Taylor bottoms up
syringe + hose approach. I got the tool at a Veterinary supply store. On the
front it worked great; only 4 bubbles appeared during bleeding. At the rear
a different story; it took 15-20 minutes to get the air out. Horizontal
configuration? Bleed valve at the top of the caliper? One mishap: Judging
character/lifestyle by the posts, many listers are familiar with syringes
often using them for recreational purposes. Me, I'm naive. I left the
reservoir cap off when I first squeezed, squirting fluid all over. Live and
learn. I'm thrilled with the steel lines!! I already had a larger Braking
Systems front rotor. Most dramatic was the change in the back; I now have a
rear brake!! Thanks again for the input, old & new. Bogdan



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Rex Hefferan <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Header Pipe powder coating
Date: 03 Mar 1999 16:09:17 -0800 (PST)

Guy,
   I found a web site some time ago on a company that did a ceramic
coating of exhaust systems. The claim was a few percent horsepower
increase which on a high output engine can mean several HP. The idea
(if I recall correctly) was that it retained the heat in the pipes,
which is what is done with headers on race bikes that you may have
seen wrapped with some kind of heat resistant tape (asbestos? Not as
durable or attractive as a coating, but probably more efficient). I
expect that one major effect was to reduce the heat around the engine
which would mean cooler/denser intake air. This may not do much if
anything for an engine that is not surounded by body work like a KLR.




==
Rex, A7

For Colorado Springs Dual Sport ride info:
http://shell.rmi.net/~avbb/cos.htm
Next gathering is April 30 - May 2


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) To: "'[e-mail]'" <[e-mail]>
Date: 03 Mar 1999 19:10:01 -0500

The idea is probably to fill the caliper up before starting the bleeding
process, the same goes when dealing with brake cylinders for drums.  Were
you able to just wait patiently for the lines to bleed themselves?

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


Bleed valve at the top of the caliper?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) To: "'[e-mail]'" <[e-mail]>
Date: 03 Mar 1999 17:14:30 -0700

P.S. Was I being Anal-Neurotic when I refitted the springs+ rubber tubes
over the new lines? Do they serve any purpose on top of steel? Anybody else
do that? Bogdan



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) To: "'[e-mail]'" <[e-mail]
Date: 03 Mar 1999 17:17:56 -0700


     Maybe able but not willing.

> The idea is probably to fill the caliper up before starting the bleeding
> process, the same goes when dealing with brake cylinders for drums.  Were
> you able to just wait patiently for the lines to bleed themselves?
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) To: "'[e-mail]'" <[e-mail]>
Date: 03 Mar 1999 19:20:42 -0500

Again, I'll have to admit not owning a klr650, or a bike with real brakes
for that matter...but I do have experience with steel braided lines.  If
they are going to rub on anything they will have to be protected.  I've seen
a number of steel braid protected lines get worn through on Highway
Tractors/Trailers.
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


P.S. Was I being Anal-Neurotic when I refitted the springs+ rubber tubes
over the new lines? Do they serve any purpose on top of steel? Anybody else
do that? Bogdan






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 19:13:35 +0000

Philip Allen wrote:
>
> Greetings
> I will be picking up a new KLR 650 in two weeks. Does anyone have any hints
> or tips concerning things to check prior to taking delivery.
> Also, I am in the S.W. Ontario Canada area and would like to locate some
> riding buddies if possible.
>
> Thanks
>
> Phil



Yes Phil, (some of these things you can check right after delivery)

I would check the handlebar mount bolts or at least make sure it's on
solid (there's little caps over the bolts so you'd have to remove them
with a small screwdriver or similar type thing).  They are probably fine
but it will help to avoid having the KLR turn into something that
resembles a water buffalo.  I did actually take delivery on a road bike
one time and without mentioning brands I can tell you that I got a real
wake-up call when the handle bars suddenly let go (someone burped!).
Also check the chain adjuster nuts at the end of the swing arm, make
sure they're snug.  You should have a complete tool kit stowed in the
luggage rack....you won't find it under a side panel.  Look in the
little glass viewing window on the starboard side to make sure the cold
oil level is right up to the top mark when the bike is level (though
some say it could go even higher).  Make sure the oil plug under the
engine is tight and not just hand-tightened.  Look at the coolant
storage tank for the radiator and just make sure the level is OK.  If
you have difficulty seeing it, jiggle the bike a little and watch for
the shadow of fluid level movement.  Make sure the footpegs are secured
tight.  The brake fluid levels are easy to read.  When you get a chance,
pull the side panels and pull the seat to get a look at the wiring and
inspect it for any friction points or pinch points that could cause a
short later on from worn insulation.  Even the flats of a nut can act
like a slow motion cutter when you add vibration.  Wrap with electrical
tape as required.

Enough gas to get to a station?  Tire inflation OK?

Well, I'll leave something for somebody else to think of,

Congratulations and try not to grin too much,

Jeff



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 19:39:34 +0000

Cameron,

May the force be with you.....sorry to read about your accident.

Hang in there!

Jeff



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) 88 KLR woes
Date: 03 Mar 1999 17:52:24 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Thanks Fred!
>Thanks Mike!
>I'm gonna go pull the jug now and the piston and my feeler guages and make
some
>measurements.  I'll even read thru the manuals again to see if I can find
specs
>again.  If anyone can point me to some more measurement techniques like
Fred
>suggests (or clarify) I would surely appreciate it!  Hope to see you all at
Moab
>this year!!!
>Wahhooooo!
>Beez
>


I looked up in the KLR 600 Base manual and the piston clearance for the 600
should be .043mm to .070mm  The 650 should be pretty close to this
measurement.  Ring end gap is measured with the ring square in the base end
of the cylinder.  Use the piston to locate the ring squarely in the
cylinder.  Piston diameter is measured 5mm from the skirt end and the
cylinder bore is measured at six locations.  First measure down 10mm from
the top.  Measure diameter from front to back and side to side.  Measure
down 60mm from the top and measure front to back and side to side.  Then
lastly measure up from the bottom 20mm.  Measure front to back and side to
side.  The cylinder service limit is the original bore plus .1mm and the
service limit for the piston is original diameter minus .15mm  Piston ring
end gap should be .2mm to .4 mm and service limit is .5mm

If you don't have inside and outside micrometers then feeler guages work
well.

I got most of this info from the KLR Base Manual on pages 3-4 and 3-21.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Date: 04 Mar 1999 13:33:07 EST+10

UNSUBSCRIBE klr650
SUBSCRIBE klr650-digest



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 21:32:29 -0800

> > Well you should definitely sue the living daylights out of that
asshole.
> > He wants to know if YOU are stupid!?!?!!?!?
> > God that burns me up!
> > The accident was definitely his fault you know.  He was following muc=
h
too
> > close
> > for the speed. =20
> >=20
> Amen to that. Cut the asshole another asshole. This wouldn't be frivolo=
us
> litigation. Thank God you're not dead.=20

I just want to second the comments already made.  The accident really had
nothing to do with the front tire blowout, in fact, from the sounds of it
you seemed to have everything under control until you got hit.  100% of t=
he
blame falls to the person who rear ended you, period. =20

I felt the need to punch something really bad when I read about his "are
you stupid" comment.  Jeezus, that kind of comment would just about induc=
e
a Chihuahua to have it out with a pit bull.  No mercy my friend, sue the
living crap out of this guy.  He just lost any chance for compassion with
that fart of a comment (not to mention his reckless tailgating).  Make su=
re
you get every last penny of his insurance policy's limit.  If he doesn't
have insurance (which would figure), then make sure, or have a laywer mak=
e
sure, that his paychecks are garnished for at least all of your medical
expenses (including any rehab down the line), the cost of your bike,
helmet, leather jacket, gloves, boots, jeans, socks, your undies, and
however much you want to throw in for pain and suffering (which I think
would a considerable amount). This may sound vengeful, but it is the LEAS=
T
you have coming to you. =20

Sorry about the length of the post.  I didn't mean to beat a dead horse, =
I
guess it is my way of dealing with a fellow rider getting needlessly take=
n
out by reckless driver.

Take good care of yourself and that shoulder until you completly heal.=20
Until you do, take it nice and easy and keep us updated whenever you feel
up to it.

Carlos "make him feel your pain" Gonz=E1lez
A5   =20



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Clay <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) MO KLR650 review
Date: 03 Mar 1999 21:41:35 -0600 (CST)

Check out the review of the KLR on Motorcycle Online:

http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mckaw/99klr650.html

Tom in Winnipeg





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mark <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 22:55:09 -0500

Carlos wrote:

SNIP > I didn't mean to beat a dead horse,

Hey, don't tell us about your sado-masochistic necrophiliac beastiality
fantasies in this forum!
Mark





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: RE: (klr650) SuperTrapp IDS
Date: 03 Mar 1999 20:48:16 EST

i'm so glad you're comfortable with your quiet side Gino

   it takes a real man to expose his soft side to others

not like these boys who run around popping off their-guns

   dawn-

"you were pulled from the wreckage of your silent reverie"

   -sarah mclachlan




In a message dated 3/2/99 10:22:35 AM, [e-mail]
writes:

>Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 08:15:46 -0700
>From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
>Subject: RE: (klr650) SuperTrapp IDS
>
>>>Look at the last line in Gino's report on the IDS "The Supertrapp IDS
>Quiet Series is not the perfect dual sport muffler, but it is better than
>anything else out on the market at this time."  I think this about says it
all.
>Don't dismiss the IDS so quickly.<<
>
>First let me say that that was my first review of an exhaust, though I
>have tried others, including the Cobra ISDE. I particularly do not care for
>loud bikes.  I feel they do far more harm to the sport than the few pounds
>and marginal performance gains we see. I do like the idea of lighter weight
>and power and if it can be provided by a muffler that is quiet, great. The
>IDS is right on the edge of being acceptable *to me*.  I would much rather
>see riders running these instead of external disc 'Trapps with 12 discs and
>an open end cap.
>
>Gino, I'll get off my soap box now, Pokluda



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 20:45:13 -0800
Date: 03 Mar 1999 21:44:06 -0700

So... we had a little wind storm last night in the beautiful and sunny
village of Seattle, Washington.

Expecting the worst, having listened to our trusted weather-dude, I wrapped
my two week old A13 up tight in its faithful blue tarp. Although I couldn't
get parking next to my own truck, I did manage to tuck it in nicely behind
my neighbor/friends behemoth Chevy 4X4. No problems...

At around 4am this morning I woke with my heart in my throat, having
actually heard (sensed?) my still unnamed, two wheeled companion, hitting
the pavement outside my bedroom window.

A funny sight indeed, if anyone was lucky enough to witness it: Myself, in
my 2nd most favorite boxers, standing in the howling wind and driving rain.
Hands outstretched, reaching towards the cruel god (gods?) somewhere in the
dark skies above. Silent of voice but screaming with my mind!

Of course, at this point I realized how the drama of the moment, combined
with my warped sense of humor, demanded that I see the hilarity of the
picture. For a couple seconds there, I could have sworn I was in some
cheeseball movie! Too funny.

Anyway, to wrap it up... A couple scratches and a sticky throttle (hit the
bar the hardest, pushing the grip in?). As coincidence would have it, I just
picked up the base shop manual (don't have the one that covers late models
yet). Time now to check out the throttle a bit more seriously, read "da"
book, and maybe search this list.

The moral: use your own freakin' truck for a wind-break.(my buddy took off
in the wee hours to visit his girl-friend... I would too.)

Rik "the kid" in Seattle

---- still can't believe I dumped my bike without having the honor of being
on it!!!!!!!!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) SuperTrapp IDS
Date: 03 Mar 1999 23:29:41 EST

In a message dated 3/3/99 9:08:45 PM Mountain Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< i'm so glad you're comfortable with your quiet side Gino

    it takes a real man to expose his soft side to others

 not like these boys who run around popping off their-guns

    dawn- >>

Uh,  thanks... I think.

Gino, at a loss for words, Pokluda



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Gravel Matthieu <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) side panel of a klr 600
Date: 04 Mar 1999 00:16:03 -0500

I have a klr600 1985. It is green but the side panel are decolorated by
the sun. Have you any
tricks to shine them and back to their original color?
Excuse me for my english, i live in quebec and i speak french. I hope
you will understand me!
Au cas ou il y aurait quelqu'un qui comprend le francais, je repete ma
question: J'ai un klr 600
1985 vert lime. mes side panel sont decolor=E9e par le soleil . y a t-il
un moyen de les ramener
a leur couleur d'origine sans les repeindre??





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 03 Mar 1999 23:56:37 -0800



----------
> From: Mark <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail]
> Carlos wrote:
>
> SNIP > I didn't mean to beat a dead horse,
>
> Hey, don't tell us about your sado-masochistic necrophiliac beastiality
> fantasies in this forum!
> Mark

Just dying to use that line, weren't you?
And uh, no I didn't mean anything by "dying".  Sheesh!






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Exhaustion
Date: 04 Mar 1999 00:13:31 -0800

'ello,

So I'm thinking that, based on the overall concensus, that the best
aftermarket exhaust system for the KLR650 is the Supertrapp IDS?  If this is
not so, please let me know =).  Cool.  Has anyone tried the White Bros. E
series?

I'm also wanting to know if anyone has weighed their old exhaust system and
compared it to their new?  How much lighter is the aftermarket?

Also, is there any power increase to going with the exhaust brands own
header pipe?  Or will the stock pipe do just fine?

Finally, has anybody got the jetting scenario (after replacing the exhaust)
down to a duplicatable science?  Or is this a hit-and-miss kind of exercise?
I would hope that it's not.  It shouldn't be.

Arne, still planning ahead, Larsen




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 21:28:18 -0700
Date: 04 Mar 1999 04:54:07 -0700

Bruce needs to sell his nicely fitted KLR...he is not a list member so contact him directly.
Here are the specs:

'97 KLR650, 6,200 miles. Over $2,600
in access. incl. Supertrapp,side racks, lowering links, Kawasaki tank and
tail bags, Lockhart flush-mount turn signals,BMW-style electrical outlet for
vest, etc., K&N,Acerbis hand guards, bar-end weights, Dyna Jet, bigger
windscreen, highway pegs, Moose skidplate, hi-watt headlite, Lexan headlite
protector, Progressive springs. Recent $500 major service incl. 2 new
Gripsters and Metzeler Super-duty tubes. Must sell, will sac. $3,950. Bike
in San Diego.  Call or write Bruce at 602.661.9414 or [e-mail].

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) 0 mph get-offs...NKLR
Date: 04 Mar 1999 05:07:05 -0700


|---- still can't believe I dumped my bike without having the honor of being
|on it!!!!!!!!


You probably will rethink this one the first time you do an Artie Johnson in front of the
Custard Stand crowd...a very dubious honor at best...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) side panel of a klr 600
Date: 04 Mar 1999 05:09:30 -0700



>I have a klr600 1985. It is green but the side panel are decolorated by
>the sun. Have you any
>tricks to shine them and back to their original color?

Your English is fine...much better than my French....I haven't heard of anything that can bring
it back...there are products like plastic renew but in my experience don't work that
well...Let's wait and see if anyone on the list has other ideas...

Kurt





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Exhaustion
Date: 04 Mar 1999 05:26:53 -0700

|So I'm thinking that, based on the overall concensus, that the best
|aftermarket exhaust system for the KLR650 is the Supertrapp IDS?  If this is
|not so, please let me know =).  Cool.  Has anyone tried the White Bros. E
|series?



No one on the list that I recall, is that the external disc model?


|I'm also wanting to know if anyone has weighed their old exhaust system and
|compared it to their new?  How much lighter is the aftermarket?

It feels like a gazillion pounds...but is probably about 6-8 lbs...Ron?


|Finally, has anybody got the jetting scenario (after replacing the exhaust)
|down to a duplicatable science?  Or is this a hit-and-miss kind of exercise?
|I would hope that it's not.  It shouldn't be.


I'd say it is somewhere in between, most of us take an initial stab at it and make one
adjustment afterwards if necessary...in my case I went for the stage III and it probably was
perfect except for the main jet at 5,000 feet. But, I decided to opt for greater fuel range and
reduced the number of discs, changed the needle a notch, and reduced the main...tis a kindlier,
gentler, beast now...Same thing with the pilot screw, mine was at 7/8 turn stock...I backed it
out to 21/2 and thought it was fine until I used Jake's tool and settled on 11/2 with some
popping on deceleration...

Kurt

Arne, I was thinking about you and your search on the way home from work on the bike...and my
thoughts went to how easily this bike adapts to upgrades and how (relatively) inexpensive they
are...my bike feels very different than it did as stock (improved) and it didn't cost a lot to
make the changes...I don't think you could do that with the F-650...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) MO KLR650 review
Date: 04 Mar 1999 07:41:21 -0500

I thought I bought a great bike, now I know that for sure.
Everything said in the article is true, IMO. 2 or 3 nutreals must be there
for a reason, heh heh heh, I just haven't found it yet.
I thought maybe the starting bit was a misadjusted kickstand, oh well. I
guess when you're a near perfect design, which is still a compromise
especially for a DP, you're bound to have 1 or 2 quirks.
I bought mine (used mind you, a 1996, $$$$ you know, lol) To fill 2 needs.
To have something to ride with my son, age 9, just starting on bikes. He has
an XR80. Now we bounce thru the woods together. And to keep up with the
wife, also just starting, she has a Vulcan 750. This bike can do it all,
very nicely too, I might add.
Pete
-----Original Message-----


>Check out the review of the KLR on Motorcycle Online:
>
>http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mckaw/99klr650.html
>
>Tom in Winnipeg
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Cameron's Crash NKLR
Date: 04 Mar 1999 05:38:02 -0700

Cameron, sorry to hear about your crash...I bet you've just about had it with KLR's as I think
this is your third in about a year isn't it? I hope you mend well. FWIW, I used to ride a road
bicycle with great enthusiasm (a nice way of saying I was addicted)...in April, 1995 I got
clipped from behind by a pickup pulling a trailer...he passed me with  6" to spare (rednecks in
Utah like to do that) and I said, "whew that was close" then I saw he was pulling a trailer and
I knew I was done (parked car on my right)...still like you, witnesses said I almost made
it....long story short the worst of my hurts was my psyche (not recovered, I can ride a
motorcycle on the road but I've never road biked again)..., a broken collarbone and a totaled
bike.

I don't believe in litigation but this guy really irritated me when he had his insurance agent
hardball me by saying he thought it was my fault. A year later they settled for $25,000 plus
medical plus repair of the bike...My collarbone mended with a typical big lump...my shoulder is
still not the same but I'm old enough now that it is just added to the things that don't work
like they used to...the physical therapy took a lot of time and a fair amount of pain. My
advice, don't sign anything, get a lawyer, don't talk to his insurance agent (hoping he has
one)...don't short change on the physical therapy...the shoulder is a bad place to get
injured...

Peace to you,

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) List growth...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 05:48:45 -0700

For those who might share my interest...this list started a year ago in late February, it has
done really well I think (I'm biased)..we've had three brief off-topic volatile periods where
we lost listers and some good contributors. In the most recent round, we were cruising at about
361 members until the wilderness topic hit...we went down to 338 and now we're back to 357....I
think the numbers are instructive...the list is not a place for off-topic controversy....the GS
list is battling it right now over one lister's experience with a motorcycle touring club...the
administrator there rules with an iron fist however...not a spineless, weak, soft thing like
me...(g)

Just some early morning sleepless in Salt Lake feedback, talk amongst
yourselves...topic...KLR's

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) List growth...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 05:55:38 -0700

|think the numbers are instructive...the list is not a place for off-topic controversy....the
GS
|list is battling it right now over one lister's experience with a motorcycle touring
club...the


should have read motorcycle touring company...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 05:57:39 -0700

I don't know about your local but all of Salt Lake City is a twitter about the up-coming (late
March, early April) dual-sport industry announcements...the rumors are rampant...but we'll just
have to wait and see....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Brian Schoonveld" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) GS list
Date: 04 Mar 1999 08:47:19 -0500

Kurt........would you please post a link to the GS list........I'd like to
take a peek to get a flavor of what they're about.    thanks.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (dr350) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 07:01:20 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: DR List <[e-mail]>


>I don't know about your local but all of Salt Lake City is a twitter about
the up-coming (late
>March, early April) dual-sport industry announcements...the rumors are
rampant...but we'll just
>have to wait and see....
>
>Kurt
>
>
>

Rumors???  Being "out in the sticks"  I am the last to hear these things.
What are you hearing?

Fred  (inquiring minds want to know)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 06:51:01 -0700

>>I don't know about your local but all of Salt Lake City is a twitter about
the up-coming (late
March, early April) dual-sport industry announcements...the rumors are
rampant...but we'll just
have to wait and see....<<

Same here.  My sources will have no one, but two major announcements in the
next four weeks.

Gino




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) GS list
Date: 04 Mar 1999 06:52:06 -0700

>>Kurt........would you please post a link to the GS list........I'd like to
take a peek to get a flavor of what they're about. <<

Brian,

It's a dark place.  You don't want to go there.

Gino




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Exhaustion
Date: 04 Mar 1999 07:00:47 -0700

>>I'm also wanting to know if anyone has weighed their old exhaust system
and
compared it to their new?  How much lighter is the aftermarket?<<

I did.  I have the numbers for the ST IDS Quiet series at home, but it is
not as much as one would think.

Gino




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Exhaustion
Date: 04 Mar 1999 07:16:36 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>'ello,
>
>So I'm thinking that, based on the overall concensus, that the best
>aftermarket exhaust system for the KLR650 is the Supertrapp IDS?  If this
is
>not so, please let me know =).  Cool.  Has anyone tried the White Bros. E
>series?

I have the IDS pipe on my bike and I like it very much.  It fits well enough
and sounds great.  I just installed the White Bros. E series pipe on a
customers XR600.  It is a nice pipe (pretty pricey) they just had a price
increase. about $290  I didn't like the rear mounting system, too light
weight for general use.  The pipe is set up for a larger head pipe and comes
with an adapter for use with your stock head pipe.  It is on the loud side
and really makes the bike come alive.

>I'm also wanting to know if anyone has weighed their old exhaust system and
>compared it to their new?  How much lighter is the aftermarket?
>
>Also, is there any power increase to going with the exhaust brands own
>header pipe?  Or will the stock pipe do just fine?

A larger header pipe will increase power on the top end while sacrificing
power down low.  For driveablity I would stay with the stock head pipe but
if you want top end power and you have done other mods ( performance carb,
cams, high compression piston, etc.) then the larger head pipe might be for
you.

>Finally, has anybody got the jetting scenario (after replacing the exhaust)
>down to a duplicatable science?  Or is this a hit-and-miss kind of
exercise?
>I would hope that it's not.  It shouldn't be.

Jetting is an individual thing.  Each bike, rider situation is different.  A
trained ear will tell you if the jetting is close.  You can get "in the ball
park" with some of the jetting that has been recommended but to fine tune it
you will just have to work with it.

Fred


>
>Arne, still planning ahead, Larsen
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bill Haycock <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Touratech Review
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:25:42 -0500



Vik,

I have finished your review on the Garmin GPS 45 Mount.  It is posted on the
Dual Sport Web Page - Go to the Home Page and click on the article - you can
also find it directly at:

http://www.dualsport.org/page87.html

Thanks for the article and appreciate the work you did to get it to me - hope
others who are interested in GPS and mounts will find it helpful.

Bill




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "R. Kaub" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Acrebis
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:42:22

Go to:    www.acerbis.com    and check out the rear auxiliary gas tank
that's supposed to fit the KLR.  Thanks.
Bob Kaub
State University of New York
PO Box 6000
Binghamton, NY  13902
607-777-2715



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: Re: (klr650) side panel of a klr 600
Date: 04 Mar 1999 10:51:47 -0500

If it's a haze on the surface, TurtleWax Polishing Compound works great.
Mark

At 5:09 AM 3/4/99, Kurt Simpson wrote:
>>I have a klr600 1985. It is green but the side panel are decolorated by
>>the sun. Have you any
>>tricks to shine them and back to their original color?
>
>Your English is fine...much better than my French....I haven't heard of
>anything that can bring
>it back...there are products like plastic renew but in my experience don't
>work that
>well...Let's wait and see if anyone on the list has other ideas...
>
>Kurt





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) RE: (klr650) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 08:55:21 -0700

Okay, okay ...let me guess!

1) Honda Transalp will be sold in North America
2) Suzuki will sell its Freewind in North America

Bonus Gossip

3) Honda is working on an all new medium sized (600-650cc) dualsport that
will be sold in North America

Let me know how I did!

Cheers,

Vik




-----Original Message-----
Cc: DR List <[e-mail]>


>>>I don't know about your local but all of Salt Lake City is a twitter
about
>the up-coming (late
>March, early April) dual-sport industry announcements...the rumors are
>rampant...but we'll just
>have to wait and see....<<
>
>Same here.  My sources will have no one, but two major announcements in the
>next four weeks.
>
>Gino
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) GS list
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:03:51 -0700

Brian,

Whatever you do don't mention Pauncho Villa's Moto Tours!!!  Trust me on
this one...=)

Cheers,

Vik




-----Original Message-----


>>>Kurt........would you please post a link to the GS list........I'd like
to
>take a peek to get a flavor of what they're about. <<
>
>Brian,
>
>It's a dark place.  You don't want to go there.
>
>Gino
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) GS list
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:41:19 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Kurt........would you please post a link to the GS list........I'd like to
>take a peek to get a flavor of what they're about.    thanks.


Brian, you can get info on subscribing at www.micapeak.com under mailing lists...it is
pretty much over now since the administrator told them to take it off line or he would
toss them...mostly because there was a lot personal flaming going on...it involved
Pancho Villa...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) GS list NKLR
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:50:33 -0700

>Brian,
>
>It's a dark place.  You don't want to go there.
>
>Gino


You're right Gino, everyday I log on I feel like Martin Sheen in Apocalypse
Now...making my way up the river...

Kurt (loving Joseph Conrad and Heart of Darkness)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) GS list
Date: 04 Mar 1999 11:54:17 -0500

Sounds like my kinda' place. I'd like to go.
NY Pete
-----Original Message-----


>>>Kurt........would you please post a link to the GS list........I'd like
to
>take a peek to get a flavor of what they're about. <<
>
>Brian,
>
>It's a dark place.  You don't want to go there.
>
>Gino
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Exhaustion
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:06:33 -0800


Has anyone tried the White Bros. E-series?

>No one on the list that I recall, is that the external disc model?

Found the article in the Feb '99 edition of "4Stroke Dirt Bike.  "Pipe
Pandemonium" - the magazine also features this pipe in a hop-up of a XR600
R.  The exhaust is described as having "slim-fitting, elliptically shaped
silencers with your choice of carbon fiber or aluminum shells..."

>Arne, I was thinking about you and your search on the way home from work on
the bike...and my
>thoughts went to how easily this bike adapts to upgrades and how
(relatively) inexpensive they
>are...my bike feels very different than it did as stock (improved) and it
didn't cost a lot to
>make the changes...I don't think you could do that with the F-650...

Your thoughts are appreciated - Thanks

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) RE: (klr650) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:05:03 -0700

>>1) Honda Transalp will be sold in North America
2) Suzuki will sell its Freewind in North America

Bonus Gossip

3) Honda is working on an all new medium sized (600-650cc) dualsport that
will be sold in North America

Let me know how I did!<<


Not according to my sources. How 'bout yours, Kurt?


I'll give you a hint that one huge announcement is from Yamaha and of course
the other is from BMW, heh, heh, heh.

Gino




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) RE: (klr650) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 10:08:49 -0700


>Let me know how I did!<<
>
>
>Not according to my sources. How 'bout yours, Kurt?
>
I think I've heard the one's you are talking about and then two from Kawasaki...

Kurt

No more hints...otherwise we're just fueling the gossip...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) List growth... and 338
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:15:31 -0800


-----Original Message-----


"we went down to 338"

Hmmm.... any coincidence between this number and the dry weight of the
KLR????  (insert Twilight Zone music here)

Arne, who's wife thinks he's wierd, Larsen




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:18:31 -0800

Why am I recieveing all of your messages twice, your messages twice?  And
what are some of these rumours?

Arne

-----Original Message-----
Cc: DR List <[e-mail]>


>I don't know about your local but all of Salt Lake City is a twitter about
the up-coming (late
>March, early April) dual-sport industry announcements...the rumors are
rampant...but we'll just
>have to wait and see....
>
>Kurt
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) 88 KLR woes
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:15:46 -0800

Thanks Fred!  I found that!
Turns out I can read the manual much better in my living room than in my
unlighted garage at dusk!  ;-)  Now I'm going to get my brother the machinist to
measure the thing.  The measurements I made with my calipers don't even begin to
make sense.  And you can't measure at the points they suggest with standard
calipers anyway.

The manual shows that the liner comes out of the block.  Does this get pressed
in and out or do you have to heat the thing up?  Anybody ever replace the
liner?  The manual says if it's out of tolerance to replace the cylinder
"block".  Does this mean the liner or the whole assy?  I shudder to think about
what that costs from Kaw.
Cheers!
Chris

Fred Hink wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
> To: Fred Hink <[e-mail]>
> Date: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 8:58 AM
> Subject: Re: (klr650) 88 KLR woes
>
> >Thanks Fred!
> >Thanks Mike!
> >I'm gonna go pull the jug now and the piston and my feeler guages and make
> some
> >measurements.  I'll even read thru the manuals again to see if I can find
> specs
> >again.  If anyone can point me to some more measurement techniques like
> Fred
> >suggests (or clarify) I would surely appreciate it!  Hope to see you all at
> Moab
> >this year!!!
> >Wahhooooo!
> >Beez
> >
>
> I looked up in the KLR 600 Base manual and the piston clearance for the 600
> should be .043mm to .070mm  The 650 should be pretty close to this
> measurement.  Ring end gap is measured with the ring square in the base end
> of the cylinder.  Use the piston to locate the ring squarely in the
> cylinder.  Piston diameter is measured 5mm from the skirt end and the
> cylinder bore is measured at six locations.  First measure down 10mm from
> the top.  Measure diameter from front to back and side to side.  Measure
> down 60mm from the top and measure front to back and side to side.  Then
> lastly measure up from the bottom 20mm.  Measure front to back and side to
> side.  The cylinder service limit is the original bore plus .1mm and the
> service limit for the piston is original diameter minus .15mm  Piston ring
> end gap should be .2mm to .4 mm and service limit is .5mm
>
> If you don't have inside and outside micrometers then feeler guages work
> well.
>
> I got most of this info from the KLR Base Manual on pages 3-4 and 3-21.
>
> Fred






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Erik Schelzig <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Gas Tank Size
Date: 04 Mar 1999 12:19:27 -0500 (EST)

Hi there.  I'm new to the list, so fogive my ignorance.  I'm looking to
buy a large bore dual sport and have pretty much decided that the price
and performance of the KLR650 looks about right for me (now if I could
just raise the money . . .)  In any case, getting a used one would be
nice, but according to Chris Scott's adventure motorbiking book the gas
tanks have been too small and the water cooler pump perilously exposed to
the elements.  I recognize that the 99 KLR has a huge tank (6.1 gallons),
so it seems one problem has been rectified.  How long has the tank been
this big, and does anyone have any thougts on the water cooled engine vs
the air cooled varieties employed by the competitors?  Thanks in advance,

Erik

==================================================================
The George Washington University         Political Science
http://gwis2.circ.gwu.edu/~schelzig        <[e-mail]>







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR message duplication
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:23:33 -0800

I think I may know why I'm recieving double messages.  They are double on
the ones I have sent out (I've had responses to "Exhaustion" from Kurt,
Gino, and Fred - all double).  This may be caused by when you reply to all,
you don't delete the original senders address.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Al Silberstein" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 11:38:31 -0600

I heard a rumor about a new dual-sport from Harley Davidson-1340 cc =
springer softail,lots of chrome, floorboards, fat-bob tank, pull-back =
handlebars and knobby tires. Maybe it wasnt a rumor, maybe it was a =
nightmare. Baba Al

>>> "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]> - 3/4/99 11:18 AM >>>
Why am I recieveing all of your messages twice, your messages twice?  And
what are some of these rumours?

Arne

-----Original Message-----
Cc: DR List <[e-mail]>


>I don't know about your local but all of Salt Lake City is a twitter =
about
the up-coming (late
>March, early April) dual-sport industry announcements...the rumors are
rampant...but we'll just
>have to wait and see....
>
>Kurt
>






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) SuperTrapp IDS
Date: 04 Mar 1999 09:33:53 -0800

The only thing that sucks about the supertrapp is that they use non-metric
fasteners.
God, for the money they are charging, you think they could provide the correct
fasteners to match the motorcycles they are designed for!
Cheers!
Chris

[e-mail] wrote:

> i'm so glad you're comfortable with your quiet side Gino
>
>    it takes a real man to expose his soft side to others
>
> not like these boys who run around popping off their-guns
>
>    dawn-
>
> "you were pulled from the wreckage of your silent reverie"
>
>    -sarah mclachlan
>
>
>
> In a message dated 3/2/99 10:22:35 AM, [e-mail]
> writes:
>
> >Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 08:15:46 -0700
> >From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
> >Subject: RE: (klr650) SuperTrapp IDS
> >
> >>>Look at the last line in Gino's report on the IDS "The Supertrapp IDS
> >Quiet Series is not the perfect dual sport muffler, but it is better than
> >anything else out on the market at this time."  I think this about says it
> all.
> >Don't dismiss the IDS so quickly.<<
> >
> >First let me say that that was my first review of an exhaust, though I
> >have tried others, including the Cobra ISDE. I particularly do not care for
> >loud bikes.  I feel they do far more harm to the sport than the few pounds
> >and marginal performance gains we see. I do like the idea of lighter weight
> >and power and if it can be provided by a muffler that is quiet, great. The
> >IDS is right on the edge of being acceptable *to me*.  I would much rather
> >see riders running these instead of external disc 'Trapps with 12 discs and
> >an open end cap.
> >
> >Gino, I'll get off my soap box now, Pokluda






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gas Tank Size
Date: 04 Mar 1999 10:56:21 -0700

>so it seems one problem has been rectified.  How long has the tank been
>this big, and does anyone have any thougts on the water cooled engine vs
>the air cooled varieties employed by the competitors?  Thanks in advance,
>
>Erik


Since the beginning of the "A" 650 models in 1987...we haven't had many reports of
problems with the water cooling...some fan electric problems...on occasional water
pump seal...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) 88 KLR woes
Date: 04 Mar 1999 13:22:40 -0500

You can replace the liners in most cylinders, but it requires that you heat
the block in an oven and use a hydraulic press. I'd have a cyl sent out for
this kind of work. Electrofusion cylinders can supposedly be resurfaced.
theres some companies that advertise in mags like dirt rider.

The manual shows that the liner comes out of the block.  Does this get
pressed
in and out or do you have to heat the thing up?  Anybody ever replace the
liner?  The manual says if it's out of tolerance to replace the cylinder
"block".  Does this mean the liner or the whole assy?  I shudder to think
about
what that costs from Kaw.
Cheers!
Chris




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) List growth...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 11:44:40 -0700



    How'd we do after one of our oil arguments; perhaps people were too
sleepy to unsubscribe. Bogdan

> 361 members until the wilderness topic hit...we went down to 338 and now
> we're back to 357....I
> think



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [Fwd: KLR 250 Motor Mods]
Date: 04 Mar 1999 10:52:12 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Path: mindspring!firehose.mindspring.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!news-peer1.sprintlink.net!news-backup-west.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!southwind.net!not-for-mail
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Organization: SouthWind Internet Access, Inc.
Message-ID: <7bmfu8$g3a$[e-mail]>
References: <[e-mail]> <7bhjge$8v9$[e-mail]> <[e-mail]>
Reply-To: [e-mail]
NNTP-Posting-Host: ict71.southwind.net
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82
Xref: mindspring rec.motorcycles.dirt:173107

>I would like to see what can possibly be done with the motor, a
>4-stroke, to increase it's power.

If you want to see what can be done with a KLR250, check out
the following link.

http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcandy/flat-tracker.html


*********************************
Jim Nelson  [e-mail]
Derby, Kansas
*********************************


--------------98C1EBC33C65E310F169079D--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Cameron's Crash NKLR
Date: 04 Mar 1999 11:54:58 -0700

Great advice by the Kurtmeister. I'll add that you should shop around for
physical therapists; they're not all the same. I had one that had me on
the road to infirmity till I got better advice. Bogdan
> don't short change on the physical therapy...the shoulder is a bad place
> to get
> injured...
>
> Peace to you,
>
> Kurt
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) stock vs aftermarket exhuast
Date: 04 Mar 1999 14:47:54 EST


On 3/4/99, [e-mail] writes:
snip re: stock vs aftermarket exhuast

>>How much lighter is the aftermarket?
>
>It feels like a gazillion pounds...but is probably about 6-8 lbs...Ron?

 Kurt, my klr stock muff and head pipe weigh in at 11 LB and 2 LB-11 oz,
 (13 LB-11 oz total). The BigGun compares at 4 LB-7 oz and 2 LB-7 oz,
 (6 LB-14 oz total), chopping almost 7 LB off the stock setup.

 I won't know how much if any of the additional power comes from
 the replacement head pipe until I can get it on a dyno.  I'll put the
 stock head pipe back on and see if there's any SOP difference.

 The matched set looks great. But if it turns out there isn't any
 performance gain with the head pipe, the muff does slip over the
 stock head pipe and you'll save $120 and still have a greater
 volume of exhaust flow than any option short of running no muffler.

 The fit is excellent. Just like the stock muff it replaces, two bolts
 secure it to the subframe. The metal badge is riveted on and will
 not burn off. There's been no detectable loss of fiberglass after 500
 miles of testing. The nickel plated pipe is showing a deep purple
 heat discoloration from the head to about a foot back. Mothers will
 restore it to new if this bothers you.

 I'll have a full test report on the klr, and maybe the dr this month.
 For those of you who are more in touch with your feminine side,
 the quiet core is coming out of R&D, so I'll be testing that soon.
 Maybe we listers can come up with some standardized tests for
 all of the exhaust systems so we'll have empiric stats to compare?

 For orders or questions about Big Gun Exhaust,
 call Mike Young, [phone]

 Redondo Ron (with testosterone to spare)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Cameron Cole <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Cameron's Crash NKLR
Date: 04 Mar 1999 15:00:36 -0500

Fortunately, I write medical software for Anesthesiologists, Podiatrists,
General Practitioners, Ortho Surgeons, Dermatologists, and a host of other
medical specialties.  I get to go around and meet the Doctors as well.  I
almost always get comp'd by the best.

Thanks for the advice, C.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bogdan Swider [mailto:[e-mail]]
> Sent: Thursday, March 04, 1999 1:55 PM
> To: 'Kurt Simpson'; KLR650-List
> Subject: RE: (klr650) Cameron's Crash NKLR
>
>
> Great advice by the Kurtmeister. I'll add that you should
> shop around for
> physical therapists; they're not all the same. I had one that
> had me on
> the road to infirmity till I got better advice. Bogdan
> > don't short change on the physical therapy...the shoulder
> is a bad place
> > to get
> > injured...
> >
> > Peace to you,
> >
> > Kurt
> >
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) List growth...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 12:02:09 -0800

Kurt after the last flameout you stated "the jury was still out" on SEX as
topic.  I was just curious if the jury was in yet.
Morgan
I love the smell of rhubarb in the morning.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) List growth...NKLR
Date: 04 Mar 1999 13:14:05 -0700



>Kurt after the last flameout you stated "the jury was still out" on SEX as
>topic.  I was just curious if the jury was in yet.
>Morgan
>I love the smell of rhubarb in the morning.
>
>
See the week's Time magazine....




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cameron's Crash NKLR
Date: 04 Mar 1999 15:38:32 EST

Cameron,

Congrats on surviving the crash, and not getting all road burned up!.Just
think of all the skin grafting and head damage you saved by wearing protective
gear! I had a crash in 88' where a driver came from the opposite direction and
slid over into my lane coming into a corner; ran me off the road on my 900
SuperSport, and my helmet was ground down pretty badly, but it saved me from
being spaghetti on the road! Broke my ribs and collar bone, but that stuff
healed fairly quickly. Glad to hear your mending, and still coherent. I think
the next time I'm tailgated, after hearing your story, I'm just gonna pull
over and let the impatient ones pass me and the Moose by! I usually slow down
more just to irritate them :), but now I think that may be taking a chance of
a rear-end collision like you had. Your story makes it worth all the ribbing I
take from other riders about wearing my riding gear even on 100 degree days.
They're in shorts, t-shirts, and shades. I'm in a one-piece Cordura nylon
riding suit with armour over my clothes and a full-face helmet, sweating like
crazy; but the idea of little or no rad rash in case of an accident makes the
sweating worth it to me personally. I still remember vividly how it feels
(road rash/broken bones/bruises), even though it was 10 1/2 years ago! Wearing
that stuff saved you from a lotta pain on top of what you already have. Be
grateful!


Bill  Swindle
A12 "Moose"
Montgomery, IL.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tim's Racks...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 13:27:13 -0700

SOOOO IT IS GENNTLY THAT YOU ARE TRYING.

-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>>If the new rack/backrest is a bolt on replacement for the existing rack,
>>makes it more roomy and comfortable for passengers, has storage for the
>>tool pack, and is reasonably priced then I think it certainly should be
>>in the DSN.
>
>It is not a replacement...it is in addition...it uses quick-release clips
and can be
>on/off in seconds..pretty nifty...I'm gently trying to talk Tim into making
it with
>the same sexy black "aircraft" aluminum that the Top of the Line Rack
uses...adds a
>certain cachet...
>
>Kurt
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) On the way
Date: 04 Mar 1999 14:29:23 -0700

Just thought I'd let you all know that the March/April issue of DSN was
mailed today.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: stuffup
Date: 05 Mar 1999 09:07:23 EST+10

oops... sorry everyone. (embarrassed? me?)

> From:          "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
> To:            <[e-mail]>
> Subject:       Re:
> Date:          Thu, 4 Mar 1999 08:31:57 -0700

> sending this to the list will not do anything....you have to send it to the
> list server.
>
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) List growth...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 18:06:16 -0500

Can I ask a question? Now I don't want to start another flame war, if you
ever had any, but I've been elsewhere and have been *burned* a time or
three, but, I'm new here and a bit ignorant. So, please, respond "off-list"
if necessary.
What was the *wilderness* topic about?
Thanks, NY Pete
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>




How'd we do after one of our oil arguments; perhaps people were too
sleepy to unsubscribe. Bogdan

> 361 members until the wilderness topic hit...we went down to 338 and now
> we're back to 357....I
> think






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bill Haycock <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: link
Date: 04 Mar 1999 18:27:31 -0500

Pat,

I made up a separate web page for your software - take a look at the Dual Sport
Home page as well as the KLR specific page - there is a link to a web page
explaining the software then directing you to the ironjungle page for downloading.

Bill

To the KLR LIST - take a look at two neat pieces of software that work with the
KLR.

Bill

[e-mail] wrote:

> Bill:
>
> Any chance of linking www.ironjungle.com to the KLR link page (or wherever).
> It would appear from all the comments I have been getting that my KLR ShimCalc
> and GearCalc software is a big hit.
>
> Thanks for doing such a great job with the KLR page.
>
> Pat




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR shifters, breaking
Date: 04 Mar 1999 18:40:08 -0500

Hey there everyone.
Today I picked up a new shifter for my 96 KLR 650, having broken the
original(?) at the weld. The parts guy said this was a first on him, yet
when surfing some Thumper sites, I see mention of replacement shifters to
replace the weak, welded original.
So what's the scoop? Am I going to break this again? I admit my riding may
be a bit rough, but I never broke one before, not even on my old XT, which I
beat the snot out of.
Has this happened to any of you? If so, what was your fix?
Thanks, NY Pete




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) RE: (klr650) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 19:26:10 -0500

-----Original Message-----
>
>I'll give you a hint that one huge announcement is from Yamaha and of course
>the other is from BMW, heh, heh, heh.
>
With BMW's win in the Dakar race, I'd reckon that they will be coming
out with a "Dakar" version of the F650.

Too bad Honda isn't bring their Varadero (sp?).  One of the
magizines had a nice write up on the Cagiva Gran Canyon
recently.  The Gran Canyon uses a 900 cc Ducati 2-valve
motor and has evolved from the Elefant.

I've got an '87 Cagiva E-650 Elefant that looks just right
next to my '88 KLR650.  The KLR is blue and white with
green accents and the Elefant is blue and white with red
accents.

Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Clay <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gas Tank Size
Date: 04 Mar 1999 18:31:08 -0600 (CST)

At 17:19 -0000 4/3/99, Erik Schelzig wrote:
>Hi there.  I'm new to the list, so fogive my ignorance.  I'm looking to
>buy a large bore dual sport and have pretty much decided that the price
>and performance of the KLR650 looks about right for me (now if I could
>just raise the money . . .)  In any case, getting a used one would be
>nice, but according to Chris Scott's adventure motorbiking book the gas
>tanks have been too small and the water cooler pump perilously exposed to
>the elements.  I recognize that the 99 KLR has a huge tank (6.1 gallons),
>so it seems one problem has been rectified.  How long has the tank been
>this big, and does anyone have any thougts on the water cooled engine vs
>the air cooled varieties employed by the competitors?  Thanks in advance,
>
>Erik

Erik
    You won't find a better bike for the money, guaranteed. As Kurt
mentioned, the gas tank has been at 6.1 gal since 1987. Most of the things
that are "wrong" with it can be fixed relatively cheaply. For example, the
too-exposed water pump can be better protected by an aftermarket bash plate
such as the one made by Moose [about $US70, I think - check with Fred].
Similarly, you can add soft luggage, hard luggage, upgraded suspension and
brakes, etc.
    But, the biggest advantage of the KLR is the availability of this
mailing list. The best solution to any technical problem is never more than
an e-mail away, and it's free. Every nut and bolt on this bike has beem
examined and thoroughly discussed over the past year, and you can search
the list archives 'til your heart's content. KLRs have been taken to hell
and back and have a well-deserved reputation for reliability. I ride mine
mostly on long highway trips at 70mph+ and can vouch for it's ability as a
long-haul bike, if that's what you're interested in. Many guys on this list
have lots of off-road experience on the bike and can advise you better in
that area.

good luck

Tom Clay
Winnipeg MB





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 19:36:09 -0500

-----Original Message-----


>I heard a rumor about a new dual-sport from Harley Davidson-1340 cc springer softail,
>lots of chrome, floorboards, fat-bob tank, pull-back handlebars and knobby tires.
>Maybe it wasnt a rumor, maybe it was a nightmare. Baba Al
>
Back in the early '70s, when HD owned Aermacchi, they had a Sprint 350 dual sport
bike.  A fellow that I used to ride one.  I always thought that it was a neat bike.

Also a few years ago in one of the HD mags, a fellow took an
883 Sportster engine and put it in a custom frame with off road
suspension.  It looked like a neat dual sport bike.  Frankly I was suprised
that HD didn't make a production version to go after a market
segment that they have abandoned.

Of course there are those rumors about HD buying KTM....


Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) SuperTrapp IDS
Date: 04 Mar 1999 19:40:49 -0500

-----Original Message-----


>The only thing that sucks about the supertrapp is that they use non-metric
>fasteners.


I just discovered this yesterday.  After trying every metric thread
guage unsuccessfully, on a whim, I tried the SAE ('merican)
thread guage.  Sure enough, the screws holding the discs to the
rear of the muffler are 10-24 threads.

At least it was pretty easy to find stainless hex cap screws
that were 10-24 x 1.5 inches.  And they were much cheaper
than the $12 box of 6 replacement screws from SuperTrap.

Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 19:52:33 -0500

-----Original Message-----
>
>>I heard a rumor about a new dual-sport from Harley Davidson-1340 cc springer softail,
>>lots of chrome, floorboards, fat-bob tank, pull-back handlebars and knobby tires.
>>Maybe it wasnt a rumor, maybe it was a nightmare. Baba Al
>>
>Back in the early '70s, when HD owned Aermacchi, they had a Sprint 350 dual sport
>bike.  A fellow that I used to ride with had one.  I always thought that it was a neat bike.
                                                           ^^^  ^^^




Sigh,  I must be getting tired.

Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fuel System
Date: 04 Mar 1999 20:07:25 -0500

Does the KLR650 rely on gravity to deliver it's fuel or does it have a fuel
pump.  If so, what is the maximum height it can draw the fuel? ie. Six
inches below carb...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Leather Pants
Date: 04 Mar 1999 18:35:15

Hey All,

The recent experience of our two wheelin' colleague has reawakened in me
the desire to buy leather pants so as not to add to my collection of road
rash scars.  Does anybody have any experience with Joe Rocket Hustler
overpants?  Any other recommendations?  I wouldn't dream of riding without
my leather jacket, I guess it's time to cover my ass literally and
figuratively.

Tahnks,

Guy Cheney




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "bob kaub" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Shim Calc
Date: 04 Mar 1999 21:24:41 -0500

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    charset="iso-8859-1"
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I've downloaded this program to two different computers and NEITHER will =
run it.  Anybody got any ideas.  I keep getting a message something like =
"not a valid program group"  or something like that.
Sure would like to use it.  Thanks.

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
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<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I've downloaded this program to two =
different=20
computers and NEITHER will run it.  Anybody got any ideas.  I =
keep=20
getting a message something like "not a valid program =
group"  or=20
something like that.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Sure would like to use it. =20
Thanks.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE6685.6A9CD860--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "bob kaub" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Front Brake Line
Date: 04 Mar 1999 21:28:40 -0500

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What's the best choice Russell or Fastline?  We can order direct from =
Russell @ roughly $50.00.  Thanks.

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>What's the best choice Russell or=20
Fastline?  We can order direct from Russell @ roughly $50.00.  =

Thanks.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE6685.F8CB2920--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Spring industry announcements...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 21:32:57 +0000

Rob Tayloe wrote:
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Al Silberstein <[e-mail]>
>
> >I heard a rumor about a new dual-sport from Harley Davidson-1340 cc springer softail,
> >lots of chrome, floorboards, fat-bob tank, pull-back handlebars and knobby tires.
> >Maybe it wasnt a rumor, maybe it was a nightmare. Baba Al
> >
> Back in the early '70s, when HD owned Aermacchi, they had a Sprint 350 dual sport
> bike.  A fellow that I used to ride one.  I always thought that it was a neat bike.
>
> Also a few years ago in one of the HD mags, a fellow took an
> 883 Sportster engine and put it in a custom frame with off road
> suspension.  It looked like a neat dual sport bike.  Frankly I was suprised
> that HD didn't make a production version to go after a market
> segment that they have abandoned.
>
> Of course there are those rumors about HD buying KTM....
>
> Ride Safely,
> Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
> Columbus, Ohio


Rob,

I don't think the Harley - KTM deal went through.  Unless things have
change recently it was my belief that KTM wanted to stay on their own.

Ride on,

Jeff



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Front Brake Line
Date: 04 Mar 1999 21:51:36 -0500

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    -----Original Message-----
    From: bob kaub <[e-mail]>
   =20
   =20
    What's the best choice Russell or Fastline?  We can order direct =
from Russell @ roughly $50.00.  Thanks.
   =20
    I just purchased a braided stainless brake line for the front brake
    on my 88 KLR650.  Initially I got a Russel, but returned it as
    there was no plastic coating on the braided stainless.  The braided
    stainless is very abrasive.  The Fastline was purchased for same
    price (from local MC dealer) and had a plastic coating.
   =20
    Ride Safely,
    Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
    Columbus, Ohio


------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BE6689.2CEAF160
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style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>bob kaub <<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A>><BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT face=3DArial>What's</FONT> =
the best=20
    choice Russell or Fastline?  We can order direct from Russell @ =
roughly=20
    $50.00.  Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV>I just purchased a braided stainless brake line for the front=20
    brake</DIV>
    <DIV>on my 88 KLR650.  Initially I got a Russel, but returned =
it=20
    as</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>there was no =
plastic coating on=20
    the braided stainless.  The braided</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>stainless is very =
abrasive. =20
    The Fastline was purchased for same</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>price (from local =
MC dealer) and=20
    had a plastic coating.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>Ride =
Safely,</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>Rob Tayloe=20
    <[e-mail]></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>Columbus, =
Ohio</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BE6689.2CEAF160--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "joel newtson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 18:59:15 PST
Date: 04 Mar 1999 19:59:48 -0700

I musta missed something -- after ass-ending the KLR, the cager actually
called the rider stupid?!?!?!?  Maybe we all ought to visit said cager
some night and communicate our disappointment with both his driving
habits and his choice of words.  Just kidding, of course . . .


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jean Philippe Bagel <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) I'm gonna change my brakes pads...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 19:41:49 -0800

Hi all,

The bike has close to 5000 miles and the brakes are slow becomming less
effective. The rear rotor even seems to have "scratches". Breaking also
produces a nasty vibration when it's raining...

I called the dealer and he says he carries 2 sort of pads. Of course I can't
remember the 2 now... Something like $27 for a pair.

So, since I am no mechanic, what do I have to look for doing it? I've got
the manuals from Fred. They seem p[etty clear. I tried to unscrew one of the
screw, and boy is it tight... I could not get it to move...

-JP



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cameron's Crash NKLR
Date: 04 Mar 1999 20:08:11 PST

Cameron,

My understanding is that the settlement amount is tied directly to the =
amount of medical expenses. So, take Kurts advice.

Alex (who is not a lawyer)

----------
> Cameron, sorry to hear about your crash...I bet you've just about had =
it with
> KLR's as I think
> this is your third in about a year isn't it? I hope you mend well. FWIW=
, I
> used to ride a road
> bicycle with great enthusiasm (a nice way of saying I was addicted)...i=
n
> April, 1995 I got
> clipped from behind by a pickup pulling a trailer...he passed me with =
 6" to
> spare (rednecks in
> Utah like to do that) and I said, "whew that was close" then I saw he =
was
> pulling a trailer and
> I knew I was done (parked car on my right)...still like you, witnesses =
said I
> almost made
> it....long story short the worst of my hurts was my psyche (not recover=
ed, I
> can ride a
> motorcycle on the road but I've never road biked again)..., a broken
> collarbone and a totaled
> bike.
>
> I don't believe in litigation but this guy really irritated me when he =
had his
> insurance agent
> hardball me by saying he thought it was my fault. A year later they set=
tled
> for $25,000 plus
> medical plus repair of the bike...My collarbone mended with a typical =
big
> lump...my shoulder is
> still not the same but I'm old enough now that it is just added to the =
things
> that don't work
> like they used to...the physical therapy took a lot of time and a fair =
amount
> of pain. My
> advice, don't sign anything, get a lawyer, don't talk to his insurance =
agent
> (hoping he has
> one)...don't short change on the physical therapy...the shoulder is a =
bad
> place to get
> injured...
>
> Peace to you,
>
> Kurt
>
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Chain clarification
Date: 05 Mar 1999 00:20:25 -0500

I am just clarifying this with others who may be less sleep deprived
than myself. The article on the webpage by Eldon Carl re: chain tension
seems to indicate the bike needs between 50-55 mm of play with the back
wheel completely off the ground? I currently have that but I also have
luggage attached. Does the add'l weight of luggage change the setting
range? Just thought I'd try a different approach from Jake Jakeman's
description to see what was similar/different. Any thoughts on Eldon's
range on a bike with luggage?

Jake, the other, more tired Jake



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Chain, again!
Date: 04 Mar 1999 22:11:44

I wanted to piggy back on Jake's question about chain tension.  What about
chain tension with the lowering links installed?

>I am just clarifying this with others who may be less sleep deprived
>than myself. The article on the webpage by Eldon Carl re: chain tension
>seems to indicate the bike needs between 50-55 mm of play with the back
>wheel completely off the ground? I currently have that but I also have
>luggage attached. Does the add'l weight of luggage change the setting
>range? Just thought I'd try a different approach from Jake Jakeman's
>description to see what was similar/different. Any thoughts on Eldon's
>range on a bike with luggage?
>
>Jake, the other, more tired Jake
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuel System
Date: 04 Mar 1999 22:24:01 -0700



>Does the KLR650 rely on gravity to deliver it's fuel or does it have a fuel
>pump.  If so, what is the maximum height it can draw the fuel? ie. Six
>inches below carb...


If you subscribe to DSN you may have the anser on your doorstep within a day or
two...Redondo has put together the mother of all carb articles and it will eventually
appear on the web...Skip Faulker reported that it does have a pump "of sorts" Skip is
down with the flu otherwise I'm sure he would jump in..you can check his report on
the web archives at:

www.listquest.com

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Tach troubleshooting...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 22:25:10 -0700

Does anyone have a clue as to how to approach Sarah's non-functioning tach? How does
the thing work so that one can troubleshoot it? Fred?

Thanks,

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I'm gonna change my brakes pads...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 23:19:45 +0000

At 07:41 PM 3/4/99 -0800, Jean Philippe Bagel wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>The bike has close to 5000 miles and the brakes are slow becomming less
>effective. The rear rotor even seems to have "scratches". Breaking also
>produces a nasty vibration when it's raining...
>
>I called the dealer and he says he carries 2 sort of pads. Of course I can't
>remember the 2 now... Something like $27 for a pair.


    Most dealers stock the EBC pads 'cause they are cheap and (entirely too)
many riders want nothing but the cheapest. The EBCs do work, but I had
better luck with the Dunlopad (DP) brakes. Braking Systems pads were no
better and didnt last as long as either of the above.


>So, since I am no mechanic, what do I have to look for doing it? I've got
>the manuals from Fred. They seem p[etty clear. I tried to unscrew one of the
>screw, and boy is it tight... I could not get it to move...


    Its gonna be a two-handed strain-and-grunt proposition the first time.
Kawa puts that stuff on *tight*. Once you get past that hurdle, its about
as straightforeward as the book would indicate.



-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR shifters, breaking
Date: 04 Mar 1999 23:25:44 +0000

At 06:40 PM 3/4/99 -0500, Steamroller wrote:
>Hey there everyone.
>Today I picked up a new shifter for my 96 KLR 650, having broken the
>original(?) at the weld. The parts guy said this was a first on him, yet
>when surfing some Thumper sites, I see mention of replacement shifters to
>replace the weak, welded original.
>So what's the scoop? Am I going to break this again? I admit my riding may
>be a bit rough, but I never broke one before, not even on my old XT, which I
>beat the snot out of.
>Has this happened to any of you? If so, what was your fix?



    This is a notoriously weak part on the KLR. I bent my stocker in a
low-speed dump on pavement and then rebent it with little  difficulty.
Then, a couple of months later the fatigued metal in the shift lever failed
(tore, actualy) on the way to a rally in N.Georgia. If I hadnt stumbled
across a competant welder in Edgfield SC , the trip would have been a
disaster. I have since installed an IMS shifter, one made of a more
resiliant steel that can be bent and rebent indefinatly. IMHO, this is a
must-have replacement part of the KLR.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 05 Mar 1999 00:36:21 -0500

Even though I'm a new lister and should speak only when spoken to, I gotta
chime in here 'cause this is a touchy subject with me:  Sombody asked
Cameron what he learned from the accident.  Well judging from the list of
gear he was wearing (leather jacket, gloves, quality helmet, riding boots,
thick pants, etc.) it would seem to me that the dude knows a few things
already.  I've had a flat on my race bike, but I had some warning.  A
blowout is very unexpected, and gives you no warning at all.  Furthermore,
who can figure what those dick head drivers are gonna do who follow way too
close to us motorcyclists.  So my point is, what happened to Cameron was
sudden and unforseeble, there was really nothing he could do.  But the part
that he could control, like the gear he was wearing, he had covered.  The
fact that we all ride KLR's means we are smarter than most motorcyclists ;)
so dont lapse and ever ride without proper safety gear.  The day I got hit
(head on at speed), I just happened to be wearing the same kind of stuff
Cameron had on.  And like him, my ass was spared.  If that lady hit me on
the day I wheelied my way to the gym in shirt & shorts, today the only place
I'd be dual sporting would be up there in the clouds.  Most of the listers
here I'm sure are into safety gear so cut me off and hit the delete key now.
But for those who think that all that stuff is expensive and hot, think
again, and put it on.  Cameron, glad you're OK, & hope you fully recover
soon.
BG




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tach troubleshooting...
Date: 04 Mar 1999 22:43:08 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Does anyone have a clue as to how to approach Sarah's non-functioning tach?
How does
>the thing work so that one can troubleshoot it? Fred?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kurt
>
>
>

There is a whole section on figureing out the tach in the KLR base manual on
pages: 14-19, 14-20 & 14-21  If Sarah doesn't  have the manual and has some
electrical experience and a multimeter then I would be glad to help her out.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) "DOH!" (NKLR) F650 comparisons
Date: 05 Mar 1999 00:26:18 -0800

Dear everyone,

I just wanna say that I kinda feel a bit like a Homer right now.  I just got
back after spending the better part of 3 hours, looking through some 166
postings (in the Archives over at Gino's place) regarding F650 bike
comparisons.

I feel bad badly that I've bent peoples ears on this matter when (judging by
all the previous traffic), there must be ears out there that are touching
the ground by now.

To Michael Kovaliv and Reverand "Chuck", since you both were at the same
place I am now, are you still happy with your decisions?

I've gotta say though, being a stubborn Norwegian myself (just ask my wife),
that Helge Pederson sure makes a guy proud!  But I dare say that traversing
"Horsethief Pass" switchbacks on the BMW would scare the shit outta me.  For
people who haven't seen this - you've got to.  Check out the Dual-sport news
archives and look for Tom's post.

Goodnight all,

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Preparing for DYnojet
Date: 05 Mar 1999 01:43:12 -0800

OK listers - I'm getting ready to the the Dynojet thing, and I have a couple
of questions. I'm pretty new at this level of tinkering, so "getting ready"
mostly means going through the thing mentally a couple of thousand times,
trying to decrease the odds of me turning my beloved GroundHog into a really
cool paperweight.

So, can someone tell me exactly which hole I am supposed to drill out for
the slide? Is this step really necessary? Also, what's the collective wisdom
on the "appropriate" main jet size and initial  needle groove to use:

98A12, 8000 mi
K&N filter
stock box (thinking of adding 6 Unifilters)
Live near sea level (not near sea)

Also, the kit came with what looks like 2 "e-clips" - each one is a little
more than a half-circle, and 2 "spacers". Do I used both clips? Where do the
spacers go?

My bike thanks you in advance for protecting it from my ham-handed
foolishness .
Mike Magier (dreaming of the ride to Moab . . .)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) You don't say...
Date: 05 Mar 1999 04:49:54 PST




"...mostly because there was a lot personal flaming going on...it
involved Pancho Villa..."

Pancho Villa?!  I thought he was dead!?...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR (plenty of paunch, not too much villa)
"The Happy Hooligan"


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) "DOH!" (NKLR) F650 comparisons
Date: 05 Mar 1999 06:36:53 -0700

>I feel bad badly that I've bent peoples ears on this matter when (judging by
>all the previous traffic), there must be ears out there that are touching
>the ground by now.


I'd like people to seek a balance...there is nothing wrong with covering the same
question as long as there hasn't been an extensive treatment of the same subject a few
days before...we are enthusiasts and like to kick things around...on the other
hand...if people would use the archives they might be able to ask even more pointed
questions that would push the list...

If you haven't visiited the new web searchable archives you really owe it to yourself
to bookmark it...there are a lot of pearls in there...

http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650


Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Preparing for DYnojet
Date: 05 Mar 1999 06:40:28 -0700

>So, can someone tell me exactly which hole I am supposed to drill out for
>the slide?

Not the one in the center!

Is this step really necessary?

Yes, it is designed to give better response by incresing the vacuum to the
diaphragm...did I get that right Ron?

Also, what's the collective wisdom
>on the "appropriate" main jet size and initial  needle groove to use:


Stock exhaust? Either way, I'd go with the third (middle) notch and the 145 main...to
start with

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) You don't say...
Date: 05 Mar 1999 06:45:21 -0700

>"...mostly because there was a lot personal flaming going on...it
>involved Pancho Villa..."
>
>Pancho Villa?!  I thought he was dead!?...


No...alive and well...just ask "Dusty" Bill Haycock...actually, this reply was
supposed to be private...but since I slipped...there is one GS lister who has been on
a year long crusade to let everyone in the world (he has a website devoted to it) know
about his trip experience...that is it...the flame war is about people telling him to
knock it off in a way that the administrator thought (I agreed with him) was
unnecessarily insulting and personal...'nuff said...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Spacely Sprockets or Cogswell Cogs
Date: 05 Mar 1999 10:00:50 EST


howdy,

I am searching for long-lasting sprockets.  Have seen a Sidewinder "laser-
forged" specimen that hypes itself pretty well, but am looking for a good
manufacturer.  So what are some decent makes, and the ones to avoid.

I am not one of the types who switches sprockets for dirt use, highway use,
altitude, ambient temperature, or what astrological sign the moon is in like
some listers.  I am just looking for a high-mileage cog.

Steve
98 R/XC 620

(Did somebody drop a hat?)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) forkbrace
Date: 05 Mar 1999 07:01:06 -0800

Does anyone know of or have any experience with a fork brace for a KLR ? I
sort of remember talking with some one about it some months back.  It might
have been Tim Bernard??? who said he was working on one.  Can anyone refresh
my memory?
Morgan.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Spacely Sprockets or Cogswell Cogs
Date: 05 Mar 1999 08:17:16 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>
>howdy,
>
>I am searching for long-lasting sprockets.  So what are some decent makes,
and the ones to avoid.




Hello Steve,

I have had good luck with Sunstar sprockets.  JT also makes some good
sprockets that are a little cheaper.  I would definitely stay away from
Sprocket Specialists sprockets.  Their tolerances are pretty sloppy.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                    Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW*
                           435-259-7356
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) forkbrace
Date: 05 Mar 1999 08:20:11 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Does anyone know of or have any experience with a fork brace for a KLR ? I
>sort of remember talking with some one about it some months back.  It might
>have been Tim Bernard??? who said he was working on one.  Can anyone
refresh
>my memory?
>Morgan.
>
>
>


$100 @ http://www.motorcycletrailer.com/sbracesales1.htm

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fastline braking stuff
Date: 05 Mar 1999 10:20:46 -0500

Anyone know of a web site or a vendor that carries fastline steel braided
cables? They seem to offer colored cables where Russell doesnt. Also not
thrilled about the prospect of buying a cable and finding out its not
covered all the way down with plastic to keep it from wearing holes in the
fender.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) RE: ShimCalc
Date: 05 Mar 1999 10:30:47 -0500


--openmail-part-1947d1ab-00000001
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name="BDY.TXT"
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="BDY.TXT"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Bob wrote:>>>>>
I've downloaded this program to two different computers and NEITHER will =
run it.  Anybody got any ideas.  I keep getting a message something like =
"not a valid program group"  or something like that.
Sure would like to use it.  Thanks.
<<<<<<<

Bob, you are the first to have any issue running the SW.  Email me
offline/offlist with some specs on the computer, OS, etc. that you are using
and I will try to help.  ShimCalc should run on any Windows 3.X computer or
better with no problems.

Pat
Austin, TX
'97 with 10.7K miles

--openmail-part-1947d1ab-00000001--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Fastline braking stuff
Date: 05 Mar 1999 10:31:48 -0500

thanks for the reply Fred, I'm trying to find a front cable in red for a
KLX650.. sounds like it will be a specialty thing :/
Do you have a contact number for them? If theyre anything like Russell I can
call with dimensions and they can make up a cable. Theyd probably like that
arrangement because they can offer that cable as a standard kit afterwards.
I've tried poking around on the web, but I'm getting nowhere. My local
dealers dont even carry Fastline stuff. Thanks :)


>Anyone know of a web site or a vendor that carries fastline steel braided
>cables? They seem to offer colored cables where Russell doesnt. Also not
>thrilled about the prospect of buying a cable and finding out its not
>covered all the way down with plastic to keep it from wearing holes in the
>fender.
>
>

'Tis your lucky day Mike.

I have both Russell and Fastline brakelines for the KLR in stock.  Russell
makes both front and rear lines like you described but Fastline only makes
front lines and only in clear plastic covering for the KLR.  I am trying to
get Fastline to make up some rears too.

Check out my KLR Parts List at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/page2.html

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                    Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW*
                           435-259-7356
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #89
Date: 05 Mar 1999 10:46:14 EST

In a message dated 3/5/99 12:22:18 AM Pacific Standard Time, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

> Does anyone have a clue as to how to approach Sarah's non-functioning tach?
> How does
>  the thing work so that one can troubleshoot it? Fred?
>
I don't know about the electronic uint but she could start by checking all of
the connectors and checking for broken wires leading to the unit. Also check
for anything visibly broken or out of place.

Gary



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeff Hayden <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) New KLR650-A13
Date: 05 Mar 1999 08:53:12 -0700

I just got my first KLR650 yesterday and found this digest today.
Immediately subscribed and am looking forward to a long relationship with
the bike and the digest.

I will update my web site soon with photos and KLR links soon.

In the mean time, can anyone answer these few questions:
What can I expect to pay for a service manual?
How much air pressure should I have in the front shock tubes for freeway
use while traveling to the mountains here in New Mexico?
AND; My dealer will not do my 500 mile check up.  What essentials do I need
to download (Shimcalc?) or purchase from the dealer?  I am motorcycle
literate and have common metric tools.

Thank you in advance for your replies.
--
Jeff - KLR650-A13 ---
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj          - Down Home Page
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New KLR650-A13
Date: 05 Mar 1999 11:16:45 +0000

At 08:53 AM 3/5/99 -0700, Jeff Hayden wrote:
>I just got my first KLR650 yesterday and found this digest today.
>Immediately subscribed and am looking forward to a long relationship with
>the bike and the digest.
>
>I will update my web site soon with photos and KLR links soon.
>
>In the mean time, can anyone answer these few questions:
>What can I expect to pay for a service manual?


    Ahh, the manual...manualS, that is. One of the more annoying features of
KLR ownership is that the only avaialble manual is the factory one, and it
is in reality *two* manuals, the KLR 600 base manual and the KLR 650
supplement. Essentialy, the base manual has most of the core engine stuff
in it and the supplement has everything else, plus the engine updates the
650 recieved over the 600. I got mine from my local dealer and payed about
$38 for the pair.


>How much air pressure should I have in the front shock tubes for freeway
>use while traveling to the mountains here in New Mexico?

    Generaly, the front suspention should be run at ambient (ie "0") pressure.


>AND; My dealer will not do my 500 mile check up.  What essentials do I need
>to download (Shimcalc?) or purchase from the dealer?  I am motorcycle
>literate and have common metric tools.


    Chances are you will only need a feeler gauge to check clearances. If you
have one out of spec the manuals have a useable chart for shim swapping. I
need to try Shimcalc. I hope your dealer will at least work some kind of
swap on the shims, if needed.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Daniel L. Hill" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Bike Cover
Date: 05 Mar 1999 11:35:53 -0500

Howdy
I found a company that has surplus Swiss military motorcycle covers for
under five dollars, thick PVC material. Other cool riding gear too.
Their web site is http://www.cheaperthandirt.com . Happy Trails to you!

Spring break-time to hit the road-chilly or not, Dan
[e-mail]
http://members.tripod.com/dlhill




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) forkbrace
Date: 05 Mar 1999 09:39:54 -0700

The one Fred referred to to my knowledge has not been tested yet. It needs a
couple of mods & some time on it. I have one & hope to have a comparison fof
that & another one. The #1 problem with the Superbrace is lack of boot
clamps, which might cause premature fork seal failure. If you can sit tight
for a while I should have some feed back.
-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert Morgan <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 1:14 AM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) forkbrace
>
>
>>Does anyone know of or have any experience with a fork brace for a KLR ? I
>>sort of remember talking with some one about it some months back.  It
might
>>have been Tim Bernard??? who said he was working on one.  Can anyone
>refresh
>>my memory?
>>Morgan.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>$100 @ http://www.motorcycletrailer.com/sbracesales1.htm
>
>Fred
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Spacely Sprockets or Cogswell Cogs
Date: 05 Mar 1999 12:51:38 -0500

Vortex! made right here in sunny Florida!

Robert
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 1:09 AM
>Subject: (klr650) Spacely Sprockets or Cogswell Cogs
>
>
>>
>>howdy,
>>
>>I am searching for long-lasting sprockets.  So what are some decent makes,
>and the ones to avoid.
>
>
>
>
>Hello Steve,
>
>I have had good luck with Sunstar sprockets.  JT also makes some good
>sprockets that are a little cheaper.  I would definitely stay away from
>Sprocket Specialists sprockets.  Their tolerances are pretty sloppy.
>
>Fred Hink
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>                    Arrowhead Motorsports
>http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW*
>                           435-259-7356
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR shifters, breaking
Date: 05 Mar 1999 21:22:34 +1000

Steamroller wrote:

[shift lever]
> So what's the scoop? Am I going to break this again? I admit my riding may
> be a bit rough, but I never broke one before, not even on my old XT, which I
> beat the snot out of.

Yes, it is likely to break again.

> Has this happened to any of you? If so, what was your fix?

I bought a new one which eventually broke as well.
I had the original re-welded and kept it in the fender bag, so that
when the replacement broke it was no big deal to replace.
I had the replacement welded and now keep _that_ in the fender bag
along with a couple of spare brake and clutch levers.
Once they're rewelded they survive ok.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
Date: 05 Mar 1999 11:23:52 -0700

I am thaankful that Cameron is Ok & was spared. I too have some major
injuries.
#1 drive defensive Cameron was alert & did what he could to save himself,
but lets not prejudge the guy who said the first that came to his mind. WE
ALL HAVE SAID THINGS THAT WERE NOT APPROPIATE AT ONE TIME OR ANOTHER
-----Original Message-----


>Even though I'm a new lister and should speak only when spoken to, I gotta
>chime in here 'cause this is a touchy subject with me:  Sombody asked
>Cameron what he learned from the accident.  Well judging from the list of
>gear he was wearing (leather jacket, gloves, quality helmet, riding boots,
>thick pants, etc.) it would seem to me that the dude knows a few things
>already.  I've had a flat on my race bike, but I had some warning.  A
>blowout is very unexpected, and gives you no warning at all.  Furthermore,
>who can figure what those dick head drivers are gonna do who follow way too
>close to us motorcyclists.  So my point is, what happened to Cameron was
>sudden and unforseeble, there was really nothing he could do.  But the part
>that he could control, like the gear he was wearing, he had covered.  The
>fact that we all ride KLR's means we are smarter than most motorcyclists ;)
>so dont lapse and ever ride without proper safety gear.  The day I got hit
>(head on at speed), I just happened to be wearing the same kind of stuff
>Cameron had on.  And like him, my ass was spared.  If that lady hit me on
>the day I wheelied my way to the gym in shirt & shorts, today the only
place
>I'd be dual sporting would be up there in the clouds.  Most of the listers
>here I'm sure are into safety gear so cut me off and hit the delete key
now.
>But for those who think that all that stuff is expensive and hot, think
>again, and put it on.  Cameron, glad you're OK, & hope you fully recover
>soon.
>BG
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tach troubleshooting...
Date: 05 Mar 1999 19:33:05 +0000

So I call Fred to get a manual. And because of the recent discussion on line, I
pick up an extra shift lever for my trip to Baja. And a stainless steel oil
filter.

Fred's just got such a smooth voice. I'd buy anything from that man. :)

Hopefully, in a couple of weeks, I'll be able to post to the list about my
efforts to remember what I used to know about engines and electric circuits...
And maybe I'll even have a working tach.

Sarah

Fred Hink wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
> To: List KLR <[e-mail]>
> Date: Thursday, March 04, 1999 3:30 PM
> Subject: (klr650) Tach troubleshooting...
>
> >Does anyone have a clue as to how to approach Sarah's non-functioning tach?
> How does
> >the thing work so that one can troubleshoot it? Fred?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Kurt
> >
> >
> >
>
> There is a whole section on figureing out the tach in the KLR base manual on
> pages: 14-19, 14-20 & 14-21  If Sarah doesn't  have the manual and has some
> electrical experience and a multimeter then I would be glad to help her out.
>
> Fred

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cameron's Crash NKLR
Date: 05 Mar 1999 14:11:31 -0600

Bogdan Swider wrote:
> Great advice by the Kurtmeister. I'll add that you should shop around for
> physical therapists; they're not all the same. I had one that had me on
> the road to infirmity till I got better advice.


I agree.  If he's not helping, try a different one.  I've seen a wide
variance in 'abilities' among different physio therapists, massage
therapists, and chiropractors.

phil



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) - was Cameron's Crash - now 'Stupid' story
Date: 05 Mar 1999 14:48:18 -0600

Bill sed:
>after hearing your story, I'm just gonna pull
>over and let the impatient ones pass me and the Moose by!

hungree added:
I've followed 'tailgater' threads on other lists and am surprised at how
many say they carry small stones or ball bearings to toss over their
shoulder...


Bill sed:
>I still remember vividly how it feels
>(road rash/broken bones/bruises), even though it was 10 1/2 years ago! Wearing
>that stuff saved you from a lotta pain on top of what you already have. Be
>grateful!

hungree added:
I wonder about that...could it be that the pain increase is inversely
proportional to the amount of injury?  Seems like I've had smaller and
larger (amounts of) injuries over the years and it didn't seem to matter
that I also had road rash when I already had a dislocated shoulder, or
when I crushed my foot, the other bruises didn't seem to matter at all.

Well, I gotta tell this MAJOR DUMB story about my crushed foot...

I had an '81 Yamaha ??175 Enduro, a real pretty little RED bike that I
bought new, primarily for running around town and to work and back.  I
had it for several years and it was in perfect condition...and did I
mention it was pretty, too?  I hardly ever took it off the road, even
though I REALLY missed thrashing around in the dirt, because I didn't
want to scratch her...she was so pretty.

One Sunday morning I was riding up and down the street in front of my
house doing wheelies, just for fun.  Well, she came up and over and was
falling to the left.  I was so afraid of HURTING my pretty little bike
that I threw myself on the pavement and pulled her down on top of me so
SHE wouldn't get hurt.

Well, horrors!  I broke the tail light lense!  But that's all!

Oh, ya, I crushed my foot and almost put a handlebar through my chest.

Glad I ain't that young'n'stupid anymore...heh heh heh.

hungree

phil in regina (that street's still got a lotta ice'n'snow on it...maybe
another 3 weeks or so...)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Dynojet Needle Spacers
Date: 05 Mar 1999 13:49:03 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Thanks for the help Kurt. Now, what about those 2 spacers . . .?
>Mike Magier


Memory is getting hazy (I forgive myself, its been a year) list can you help Mike and
I...does the kit comes with 2 spacers? They should go on the needle before (lower)
than the  clip but before (above) inserting into the plastic housing right?

Thanks,

Mike and Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: waynef <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Question regarding exhaust heat
Date: 05 Mar 1999 14:59:02 -0600

I had not noticed until today that the exhaust on the KLR is producing
enough heat that the luggage rack is becoming very hot on the side over
the exhaust.  In fact, the grab rail section of the rack is hot enough
not to be able to hold on to if there were a passenger.  Has anyone else
noticed this?  This has probably always been the case but I did notice
it and became concerned that something was causing the exhaust to
overheat.  The temp gauge is reading normal.   Thanks for the help.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RIP KLR - ROH (Rot in Hell) Tailgater
Date: 05 Mar 1999 15:04:47 -0600

Tim sed:
> but lets not prejudge the guy who said the first (thing) that came to his mind...



Sorry, Tim, I can't agree...Anyone who follows too close and causes an
accident is prejudged in my book every time!

I was 'run over' as well, and went through HELL for 10 years.
I cannot cut that guy ANY slack!

Glad you survived, Cameron, hope you recover fully, and SUE the bastard!

hungree (keep honking, I'm reloading)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
Date: 05 Mar 1999 13:23:25 -0800

Can anyone tell me what to expect for night-time temps in late May/early
June in Moab? I'm thinking of doing some camping while there, and I'm trying
to figure out just what to bring (gotta pack light - traveling by KLR)

Mike Magier
98A12 (...GroundHog...)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) was: Cameron's Crash ... now: Bad place to get injured...
Date: 05 Mar 1999 15:25:20 -0600

Kurt Simpson wrote:
>...the shoulder is a bad place to get injured...


...heh heh heh, so is the left lane, the right lane AND the sidewalk...

But, speaking of painful places to get injured...

Many years ago I was dirt bikin' with a friend in the 'Big Muddy', a
valley South of here.  I saw him crash just over a little rise and, not
seeing him get up right away, went over to check.

Turns out he came across a rattlesnake and in an effort to avoid it he
not only ran over it but then fell off the bike.  The snake, rather
pissed at being ridden over, bit him...got him right on the penis.

Well, he couldn't ride and our bikes were too small for two, so I raced
across country to the nearest town for help (only a couple of miles
away).  I rode in hard and fast and spotted the doctor's office on Main
Street.

I burst into the office and explained the problem and the Doc said he'd
get in his 4x4 and get out there as quick as he could, but it was VITAL
that I get back to my buddy as fast as possible and "make a cut and suck
the poison out, or he'll DIE!".

I rode back out there just as hard and fast, and my friend asked what
the doctor said.  I broke the news..."Yer gonna die!"

phil



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Touratech Review
Date: 05 Mar 1999 15:38:11 -0600

Good article!  Thanks Bill + Vik.



Bill Haycock wrote:
>
> Vik,
>
> I have finished your review on the Garmin GPS 45 Mount.  It is posted on the
> Dual Sport Web Page - Go to the Home Page and click on the article - you can
> also find it directly at:
>
> http://www.dualsport.org/page87.html
>
> Thanks for the article and appreciate the work you did to get it to me - hope
> others who are interested in GPS and mounts will find it helpful.
>
> Bill



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR - ROH (Rot in Hell) Tailgater
Date: 05 Mar 1999 14:47:07 -0700

I wasn't trying to get any agreement or justify the guy or keep anybody from
doing what they want.
#1 Cameron was prepared
-----Original Message-----


>Tim sed:
>> but lets not prejudge the guy who said the first (thing) that came to his
mind...
>
>
>
>Sorry, Tim, I can't agree...Anyone who follows too close and causes an
>accident is prejudged in my book every time!
>
>I was 'run over' as well, and went through HELL for 10 years.
>I cannot cut that guy ANY slack!
>
>Glad you survived, Cameron, hope you recover fully, and SUE the bastard!
>
>hungree (keep honking, I'm reloading)
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) "DOH!" (NKLR) F650 comparisons
Date: 05 Mar 1999 14:25:19 -0800 (PST)

Arne,
My only problem to date with the KLR is I don't have enough time to
ride it. I plan on taking a five state tour next month and still only
have 350 miles on the odometer. Not knowing the schedule of my dealer,
I hope he can get it in and out quickly for the 500 mile check-up. I
really enjoy this thing, I have had a number of bikes in the past and
this gives me all the good feelings from each. Kawasaki really did a
good job on this, probably why they have not changed anything
drastically since the KLR A1.

Good luck, and ride safely.




---Arne Larsen <[e-mail]> wrote:
>
> Dear everyone,
>
> I just wanna say that I kinda feel a bit like a Homer right now.  I
just got
> back after spending the better part of 3 hours, looking through some
166
> postings (in the Archives over at Gino's place) regarding F650 bike
> comparisons.
>
> I feel bad badly that I've bent peoples ears on this matter when
(judging by
> all the previous traffic), there must be ears out there that are
touching
> the ground by now.
>
> To Michael Kovaliv and Reverand "Chuck", since you both were at the
same
> place I am now, are you still happy with your decisions?
>
> I've gotta say though, being a stubborn Norwegian myself (just ask
my wife),
> that Helge Pederson sure makes a guy proud!  But I dare say that
traversing
> "Horsethief Pass" switchbacks on the BMW would scare the shit outta
me.  For
> people who haven't seen this - you've got to.  Check out the
Dual-sport news
> archives and look for Tom's post.
>
> Goodnight all,
>
> Arne
>
>
>

==
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: 500 mile check
Date: 05 Mar 1999 15:35:28 -0700

>My only problem to date with the KLR is I don't have enough time to
>ride it. I plan on taking a five state tour next month and still only
>have 350 miles on the odometer. Not knowing the schedule of my dealer,
>I hope he can get it in and out quickly for the 500 mile check-up.

Rev. Chuck, be careful, a lot of people have had dealers be very willing to do a quick
500 mile check...charging you $150 for essentially an oil change...Kawasaki says valve
check/adjustment and that is what you should insist on...many of us have had tight
valves on the first check. (I had 3)...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Chain clarification
Date: 05 Mar 1999 15:44:14 -0700

Jake, No less an authority than Eldon Carl himself speaking "Ex Cathedra"
told me my method of judging chain tension must be great since my chain
lasted so long. Here it is: With the bike on it's sidestand & unloaded, find
the spot were the bottom run of the chain is closest to the padded front
section of the swingarm. Push the chain up. It should almost touch the
swingarm. About 1/16" away; 1/8" is too much. Afterwards you can see how
much loading the bike changed it's position and go by that when the bike is
loaded although I never bother. I check it at night while oiling. Bogdan

>  The article on the webpage by Eldon Carl re: chain tension
> seems to indicate the bike needs between 50-55 mm of play with the back
> wheel completely off the ground?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fork Air Pressure?
Date: 05 Mar 1999 14:54:16 -0800 (PST)

Having only one minor (?) issue with my bike: the "rapid road angle
change" when mashing the front binders, I plunged into a quick and
easy attempt to remedy. I added 10 psi to the cold forks and stiffened
the rear re-bound. Not only did I raise the seat height (I am now 36
inch inseam-challenged) but I also cut the dive effect quite a bit,
enough for me for now.

Anybody know if 10-psi cold will damage the seals, or promote early
demise?

Maybe I should measure the fork pressure after a good long washboard...





==
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Low fender
Date: 05 Mar 1999 14:58:53 -0800 (PST)

Has anyone considerded re-mounting the factory front fender down lower
to the wheel? I get this "full jib-sail" effect when being passed by
an oncoming semi...




==
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) List growth...
Date: 05 Mar 1999 15:59:21 -0700


    Pete, Probably Kurt already answered, Some listers got into it over
trail access for motorcycles. They fell into the usual "tree hugger" &
"motorhead" polarities. I actually enjoyed the action. Bogdan
> What was the *wilderness* topic about?
> Thanks, NY Pete
>
>
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
Date: 05 Mar 1999 16:01:48 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Can anyone tell me what to expect for night-time temps in late May/early
>June in Moab? I'm thinking of doing some camping while there, and I'm
trying
>to figure out just what to bring (gotta pack light - traveling by KLR)
>
>Mike Magier
>98A12 (...GroundHog...)
>
>


http://moab.net/chamber1.htm#climate  There is alot of good Moab info here.

Plan on cool mornings(50s/60s) and hot days(80s/90s).  Be a boy scout and be
prepared.

Fred





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: 500 mile check
Date: 05 Mar 1999 15:10:13 -0800 (PST)

I sort-of expect this as spring has sprung and there will be many
larger profit jobs in the wings for my dealer. Is there a document or
something from Kawasaki I can quote when I take it in? And, how will I
know there was actually an inspection made?
Faith?
I don't think so, there is money involved...




---Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]> wrote:

> Rev. Chuck, be careful, a lot of people have had dealers be very
willing to do a quick
> 500 mile check...charging you $150 for essentially an oil
change...Kawasaki says valve
> check/adjustment and that is what you should insist on...many of us
have had tight
> valves on the first check. (I had 3)...
>
> Kurt
>
>


==
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
Date: 05 Mar 1999 19:43:39 EST

In a message dated 3/5/99 2:20:29 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<  I'm trying
 to figure out just what to bring (gotta pack light - traveling by KLR) >>

So do I.  Travelling by DR350 and praying for a tail wind.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
Date: 05 Mar 1999 18:04:36 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>In a message dated 3/5/99 2:20:29 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><<  I'm trying
> to figure out just what to bring (gotta pack light - traveling by KLR) >>
>
>So do I.  Travelling by DR350 and praying for a tail wind.
>
>Gino
>
>

Hey Gino,

I have a Trail 90 you can use if you really want to travel light.  Besides
the tailwind you'll need some good downhills too.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fork Air Pressure?
Date: 05 Mar 1999 19:43:13 +0000

At 02:54 PM 3/5/99 -0800, Rev. Chuck MacKarness wrote:
>Having only one minor (?) issue with my bike: the "rapid road angle
>change" when mashing the front binders, I plunged into a quick and
>easy attempt to remedy. I added 10 psi to the cold forks and stiffened
>the rear re-bound. Not only did I raise the seat height (I am now 36
>inch inseam-challenged) but I also cut the dive effect quite a bit,
>enough for me for now.
>
>Anybody know if 10-psi cold will damage the seals, or promote early
>demise?
>
>Maybe I should measure the fork pressure after a good long washboard...



    In my case, I went to Progressive springs and (more recently) 15 wt. fork
oil, both of which help a great deal. I just dont have a lot of faith in
the air setup on the KLR. I was under the impression that proper air
adjustable fork setups were more sophisticated than the KLRs.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gas Tank Size
Date: 04 Mar 1999 22:27:16 -0800

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Tom Clay wrote:

>  For example, the
> too-exposed water pump can be better protected by an aftermarket bash plate
> such as the one made by Moose [about $US70, I think - check with Fred].
>

 $39.20 US @ MAW

> Tom Clay
> Winnipeg MB

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 05 Mar 1999 18:54:35 -0800

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--------------16C28B0FFC38FC67C27B1901
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    I am going to be relocating the fuse block to a more easily
accessible location (2 feet from original). I was wondering if anyone
could advise about the recommended size of wire for carrying 20 amps. My
concern is that if it's to small it might not be able to carry the
amperage or if it's too large it could loose some intensity. The wires
from the OEM block look to be about 16 gauge on the 20 amp fuse and
18-20 gauge on the 10 amp. fuse, however the distance will increase...
any recommendations..

Thanks,
Brian --soon to have voltage flowing again--

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeff Hayden <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) '99KLR650 New Press release
Date: 05 Mar 1999 22:13:50 -0700

Check this out Sports fans:

http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mckaw/99klr650.html

--
Jeff - KLR650-A13---
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj          - Down Home Page
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR I'm Back!
Date: 05 Mar 1999 21:47:40 -0800

Been off of the net for quite a while.  I have moved from Tacoma to
Richland, in Eastern WA.  Went from the forest to the desert.  Lots more
room to ride out here, and WAY less traffic.  I've switched colleges, and my
daily commute from has gone down from 50 miles one way, to 15 miles.  I
think that I've gotten past my professional student phase and have a
definite plan.  I switched from being a senior for a B.S. in Cellular and
Molecular Biology, (minor in Chemistry), to a junior for a B.S. in
Mechanical Engineering, with a minor in Math.

I spent some time reviewing the list archives, and I have a few questions
about what's been happening since I last posted back in July.  What was the
"Wilderness Issue" that had people unsuscribing  to the list?  Has Dual Star
come out with the high speed foot pegs for the KLR that they were promising
back in August?

Still haven't replaced my slipping clutch.  I mostly ride conservatively, so
it really doesn't bother me, as it slips only during full throttle launches.

I now live two blocks from the Columbia River, one of the best stretches of
water-ski water in the states, when the wind isn't blowing.

Speaking of wind, does anyone have experience with riding in 40 + MPH cross
winds?  During the winter and spring, its practically an everyday
occurrence, and I've resorted to riding on a 45 MPH backroad, instead of the
70 MPH interstate, because the cross wind has practically blown me off the
road and scared the fear of God into me more than once.

Good to be back

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR I'm Back!
Date: 05 Mar 1999 21:56:05 PST

Jeff,

You can search the archieves for the information:

http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=3Dklr650

You will find all the information there.

Better to get a BS in Computer Science; it is easier to get a job.

Alex (BSME, San Jose, CA)

----------
> Been off of the net for quite a while.  I have moved from Tacoma to
> Richland, in Eastern WA.  Went from the forest to the desert.  Lots mor=
e
> room to ride out here, and WAY less traffic.  I've switched colleges, =
and my
> daily commute from has gone down from 50 miles one way, to 15 miles. =
 I
> think that I've gotten past my professional student phase and have a
> definite plan.  I switched from being a senior for a B.S. in Cellular =
and
> Molecular Biology, (minor in Chemistry), to a junior for a B.S. in
> Mechanical Engineering, with a minor in Math.
>
> I spent some time reviewing the list archives, and I have a few questio=
ns
> about what's been happening since I last posted back in July.  What was=
 the
> "Wilderness Issue" that had people unsuscribing  to the list?  Has Dual=
 Star
> come out with the high speed foot pegs for the KLR that they were promi=
sing
> back in August?
>
> Still haven't replaced my slipping clutch.  I mostly ride conservativel=
y, so
> it really doesn't bother me, as it slips only during full throttle laun=
ches.
>
> I now live two blocks from the Columbia River, one of the best stretche=
s of
> water-ski water in the states, when the wind isn't blowing.
>
> Speaking of wind, does anyone have experience with riding in 40 + MPH =
cross
> winds?  During the winter and spring, its practically an everyday
> occurrence, and I've resorted to riding on a 45 MPH backroad, instead =
of the
> 70 MPH interstate, because the cross wind has practically blown me off =
the
> road and scared the fear of God into me more than once.
>
> Good to be back
>
> Jeff
>
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR I'm Back!
Date: 05 Mar 1999 21:59:18 PST


Should have finished reading your post before suggesting that you check =
the archieve!

Alex

> I spent some time reviewing the list archives, and I have a few questio=
ns
> about what's been happening since I last posted back in July.  What was=
 the
> "Wilderness Issue" that had people unsuscribing  to the list?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 05 Mar 1999 22:12:11 -0800



>    I am going to be relocating the fuse block to a more easily
>accessible location (2 feet from original). I was wondering if anyone
>could advise about the recommended size of wire for carrying 20 amps. My
>concern is that if it's to small it might not be able to carry the
>amperage or if it's too large it could loose some intensity. The wires
>from the OEM block look to be about 16 gauge on the 20 amp fuse and
>18-20 gauge on the 10 amp. fuse, however the distance will increase...
>any recommendations..
>
>Thanks,
>Brian --soon to have voltage flowing again--
>
I think that you can go with one gauge smaller than the stock wire, i.e. 14
gauge for the 20 amp, and 18 or 16 gauge for the 10 amp.  Unless you are
adding several feet of wire, the increased length shouldn't be an issue.
There is an interesting issue with current flow through fuses.  Decrease the
gauge of the wire (thicker wire), and you have less resistance in the wire
and thus more current flow.  But fuses work in the principal that more
current flow means more heat in the fuse, and that's what burns the fuse and
blows it.  Increase the gauge of the wire, and you have the opposite effect,
less current, and thus cooler fuse.  But this obviously is a problem, if the
wire can't carry the required current flow for the circuit, the wire gets
too hot, and the circuit doesn't work up to its full potential.  Granted, I
think that Kawi might have been a little cheap with the copper, but if all
of the wire in the looms were better gauge, and less resistance altogether,
then the already weak charging system wouldn't be able to handle the load,
and the battery would drain.  (All the lights would be brighter, the horn
louder, and the starter motor faster though!)  Food for thought.

You are correct in considering that moving the fuse block and using longer
wires has an effect on the resistance of the circuit, but I don't think that
it will really be noticeable in 18 gauge wire.  Try experimenting.  With a
good multimeter, (digital) measure the resistance of known length of wire
that approximates the gauge and length of the wire on the circuit for the
fuse.  Then measure the resistance of a longer wire that you'll use to
relocate the fuse block, and see how much more resistance you can measure,
if at all.  You can use this figure to tell if you need to go to a smaller
gauge.

Sorry for the length, hope this helps, be safe and don't burn up your wires
(don't ask how I know about that)

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 05 Mar 1999 23:32:33 -0700


.....Snip...
>of the wire in the looms were better gauge, and less resistance altogether,
>then the already weak charging system wouldn't be able to handle the load,
>and the battery would drain.  (All the lights would be brighter, the horn
>louder, and the starter motor faster though!)  Food for thought.
>
>You are correct in considering that moving the fuse block and using longer
>wires has an effect on the resistance of the circuit, but I don't think
that
>it will really be noticeable in 18 gauge wire.  Try experimenting.

>Jeff
>


 Brian, Jeff,
     You guys need to check the archives. This has been done by several
Listers ( going to larger gauge wire) in the electrical circuit with
excellent results. 10AWG to 12AWG  is what is being used on the 20amp
circuit and  12AWG to 14AWG on the 10amp circuit.
     Jeff, sorry, but your theory on increasing wire size causing less
performance is flawed. Less resistance will not equate to reduced alternator
output, no way, no how. I`m not going into D.C. Electricity 101 again, but
will say that the results many of us have received by increasing wire size
has been very good, I.e. brighter lights, fewer blown fuses etc...
   Many factors govern wire size besides amperage; length of run, voltage,
free wire or in a bundle with other wires, ambient temp in the area of the
run, etc..
    Do check the archives, there`s  a good bit about this very subject .


Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR I'm Back!
Date: 05 Mar 1999 23:51:51 -0700




>Been off of the net for quite a while.  I have moved from Tacoma to
>Richland, in Eastern WA.  Went from the forest to the desert.  Lots more
>room to ride out here, and WAY less traffic.  I've switched .....
............................................................................
stretches of
>water-ski water in the states, when the wind isn't blowing.
>
>Speaking of wind, does anyone have experience with riding in 40 + MPH cross
>winds?  During the winter and spring, its practically an everyday
>occurrence, and I've resorted to riding on a 45 MPH backroad, instead of
the
>70 MPH interstate, because the cross wind has practically blown me off the
>road and scared the fear of God into me more than once.
>
>Good to be back
>
>Jeff
>
>

Jeff,
   Welcome back. I`m not commenting on the Wilderness issue except to say
that some were not respecting the opinions of others.
    As far as the 45mph crosswinds, you bet! Most of east Montana is just
one big windstorm, summer and winter. That`s why we have wind fences on a
lot of the roads in the winter.
  The first time I went over to the east side on my A9, it was a lot less
forgiving than doing it on the R100GS. Fortunately I was loaded for a week
camp trip. I found that at around 40 to 45 mph crosswind, I couldn`t get
over 55 or 60 mph, without really having to lean the bike too far. It was a
real eye opener when a car would pass and block the wind momentarily, the
bike would immediately try to go into the other lane, since I was leaned so
far over.  It is a weird feeling to be doing 60 mph straight down a road,
while at a 45degree lean angle, and after 3 or 4 hours, very tiring.
  Don`t let it stop you, just be prepared for wind shifts and gusts that
will hinder your control. Also, when the roads are wet, you`ve already got 2
strikes against you, so be careful or choose another route.

Skip





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tach troubleshooting...
Date: 05 Mar 1999 17:26:52 -0500

What's the deal with Stainless Steel oil filters?  I can't see them lasting
any longer than a regular but they cost a lot more.  Do you reverse flush
them or something?
-----Original Message-----


>. And a stainless steel oil filter.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tach troubleshooting...
Date: 06 Mar 1999 05:58:20 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>What's the deal with Stainless Steel oil filters?  I can't see them lasting
>any longer than a regular but they cost a lot more.  Do you reverse flush
>them or something?
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR list <[e-mail]>
>Date: March 5, 1999 2:39 PM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) Tach troubleshooting...
>
>
>>. And a stainless steel oil filter.
>
>
>
>

Yes, that is it exactly.  You can clean and reuse the K&P filters forever,
where paper has to be thrown away each time you change them.  You can see my
literature on the K&P oil filters on Ron's page at:
http://members.aol.com/cloudhid/kpinfo.jpg

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                    Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW*
                           435-259-7356
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Tach troubleshooting...
Date: 06 Mar 1999 06:11:37 -0700


-----Original Message-----



>Fred's just got such a smooth voice. I'd buy anything from that man. :)
>
>Sarah

Hi Sarah!

Now that I have my head out of the clouds,  could I interest you in some
downtown Moab real estate, dirt cheap?  ;<)

Good luck with that rev counter.

Fred





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low fender
Date: 06 Mar 1999 08:42:34 +0000

Rev. Chuck MacKarness wrote:
>
> Has anyone considerded re-mounting the factory front fender down lower
> to the wheel? I get this "full jib-sail" effect when being passed by
> an oncoming semi...
>
> ==
> Rev. Chuck
> '99 KLR651
> :^)>+
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


Chuck,

I know what you mean about the "sail effect" when large vehicles pass
you on the highway.  It's part of the riding experience on a KLR because
of the upright riding position, light weight and the various parts of
the bike.  When I see a large truck coming up in my mirrors or up ahead
I usually ride more towards the center of my lane to cut them slack and
this helps to reduce the draft. Then I get back to the "left tire (if
your in a car)" portion of my lane because that's where the least amount
of oil and road contamination is.  Sometimes you just get into
situations where you may need to tuck like a sport biker to reduce the
surface area until the vehicle goes by.  Bulky jackets catch the wind
more than less bulky jackets etc....I never wear a jacket with an
attached hood that can act like a parachute.

I would caution about changing the factory fender installation.  It's on
the way it is to allow for maximum wheel travel (not to mention that it
has vents in it that allow air to travel to the radiator).  The only
other option I've seen on some enduro bikes is to have the fender
mounted close to the wheel off the lower fork portion so that as the
wheel moves so does the fender.  Due to the type of material and
attachment method, the front fender is somewhat flexible, and won't hold
it's shape like a metal one with brackets, but the bike is designed to
cover several types of riding and there are trade-offs.

Another thing you could check is your tire inflation.  If the tires are
down a few pounds from the recommended pressure it can effect the
handling as well.  See page 8-3 of the KLR 650 manual for stock tire
pressures (mine referenced 21 psi front and 21 or 28 psi rear for load
dependence).  I have after Metzeler street tires on my KLR so my
situation is different since I don't use it in soft sand much.

Even the largest touring bikes have wind related challenges because of
their larger surface area.  So anything you learn on the KLR can be
applied later on.


Ride on,

Jeff



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 06 Mar 1999 10:13:17 EST

Okay, there has been some talk on here about wire size that I think needs to
be clarified.

First off, going with bigger wire is NEVER a bad idea.  You don't lose
"intensity", 12 volts is always 12 volts.  What you cut down on is resistence
in the wire, not the load imposed by whatever the circuit is operating.  The
current that will flow will be dictated by the load, not by the wiring.  At
least, it SHOULDN'T be dictated by the wiring.  If it is, that is when you get
to witness the "wires in the toaster" imitation.  Been there, done that.  Much
nicer riding than pushing.

Second, fuses are in the system TO PROTECT THE WIRING!  They are designed to
fail before the wiring does.  The wiring will fry long before the components
in the circuit will.  Putting a bigger fuse in a circuit to run an accessory
is asking for big trouble.  Better to run new wiring for that accessory with
an inline fuse than risk frying a wiring harness.

So, why does an OEM use a certain size wire?  Two reasons;  one, a load of a
certain value only generates so much current flow, so the wiring only needs to
be able to flow that much plus a safety margin in order to operate correctly.
Two, the bean counters are watching every penny, and smaller wire costs less.
In aircraft (it was A&P school where I learned all of this) there is a further
concern that we don't care about, weight.  Upgrade a wire size in an aircraft
unnecessarily, and you may add thousands of pounds to it's weight.

So, upgrading a wire size won't hurt, but it probably won't help either.  The
exceptions to this are obviously when you are changing something from the way
it was originally (ie, a 80/100 headlight over the dim 55/60 stocker).  In
this case, run a relay (an electrically operated remote switch) using large
wire from battery to light, with the original wiring simply turning the relay
on and off, and be amazed at the difference in brightness you pick up.

I once had a baja bug that I completely rewired, and I used nothing smaller
than 14ga through the whole car.  Overkill?  Yes.  Same reason I carry
500,000/500,000 liability insurance on my cars.  Of course, that car had
switches to turn off the taillights, brakelights, and license plate light
independently of each other too, but that's another story!

Could an OEM bike maker use nothing but 14ga?  Sure, with no ill effects.
But imagine the size of the resultent wiring harness.....kinda unsightly, and
hard to hide, in addition to raising the cost of the bike.

See ya, Dennis
'87 KLR 650 Urban Assault Vehicle
Firefighter/Paramedic, FAA licensed A&P mechanic, beerbrewer, bikerider, and
chaser of loose women......



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
Date: 06 Mar 1999 11:12:31 EST

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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In a message dated 3/5/99 7:02:31 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Hey Gino,

 I have a Trail 90 you can use if you really want to travel light.  Besides
 the tailwind you'll need some good downhills too.

 Fred
  >>

Way to go Fred!!!  Nice hit.  Hey, all the discussion about the best dual
sport bikes on the DUST list, and I've not seen the ever-running Trail 90
listed.  My first ride.....

MN Ron

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-----Original Message-----


>In a message dated 3/5/99 2:20:29 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><<  I'm trying
> to figure out just what to bring (gotta pack light - traveling by KLR) >=
>
>
>So do I.  Travelling by DR350 and praying for a tail wind.
>
>Gino
>
>

Hey Gino,

I have a Trail 90 you can use if you really want to travel light.  Besides
the tailwind you'll need some good downhills too.

Fred




--part0_920736751_boundary--



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: MIKE PROVINCE <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #92 SKID PLATE
Date: 06 Mar 1999 08:53:37 -0800 (PST)

I'm looking for a skid plate for my 87 600.  do you think I'll have to
get it through kaw. Or does Moose
have one that will fit?





---klr650-digest  wrote:
>
>
> klr650-digest          Friday, March 5 1999          Volume 02 :
Number 092
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 15:59:21 -0700
> From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
> Subject: RE: (klr650) List growth...
>
>     Pete, Probably Kurt already answered, Some listers got into it over
> trail access for motorcycles. They fell into the usual "tree hugger" &
> "motorhead" polarities. I actually enjoyed the action. Bogdan
> > What was the *wilderness* topic about?
> > Thanks, NY Pete
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 16:01:48 -0700
> From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
> To: KLR650 List <[e-mail]>
> Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 7:24 AM
> Subject: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
>
>
> >Can anyone tell me what to expect for night-time temps in late
May/early
> >June in Moab? I'm thinking of doing some camping while there, and I'm
> trying
> >to figure out just what to bring (gotta pack light - traveling by
KLR)
> >
> >Mike Magier
> >98A12 (...GroundHog...)
> >
> >
>
>
> http://moab.net/chamber1.htm#climate  There is alot of good Moab
info here.
>
> Plan on cool mornings(50s/60s) and hot days(80s/90s).  Be a boy
scout and be
> prepared.
>
> Fred
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 15:10:13 -0800 (PST)
> From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: (klr650) Re: 500 mile check
>
> I sort-of expect this as spring has sprung and there will be many
> larger profit jobs in the wings for my dealer. Is there a document or
> something from Kawasaki I can quote when I take it in? And, how will I
> know there was actually an inspection made?
> Faith?
> I don't think so, there is money involved...
>
>
>
>
> - ---Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]> wrote:
>
> > Rev. Chuck, be careful, a lot of people have had dealers be very
> willing to do a quick
> > 500 mile check...charging you $150 for essentially an oil
> change...Kawasaki says valve
> > check/adjustment and that is what you should insist on...many of us
> have had tight
> > valves on the first check. (I had 3)...
> >
> > Kurt
> >
> >
>
>
> ==
> Rev. Chuck
> '99 KLR651
> :^)>+
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 19:43:39 EST
> From: [e-mail]
> Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
>
> In a message dated 3/5/99 2:20:29 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> <<  I'm trying
>  to figure out just what to bring (gotta pack light - traveling by
KLR) >>
>
> So do I.  Travelling by DR350 and praying for a tail wind.
>
> Gino
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 18:04:36 -0700
> From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
> Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 10:51 AM
> Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
>
>
> >In a message dated 3/5/99 2:20:29 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> >[e-mail] writes:
> >
> ><<  I'm trying
> > to figure out just what to bring (gotta pack light - traveling by
KLR) >>
> >
> >So do I.  Travelling by DR350 and praying for a tail wind.
> >
> >Gino
> >
> >
>
> Hey Gino,
>
> I have a Trail 90 you can use if you really want to travel light.
Besides
> the tailwind you'll need some good downhills too.
>
> Fred
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 19:43:13 +0000
> From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
> Subject: Re: (klr650) Fork Air Pressure?
>
> At 02:54 PM 3/5/99 -0800, Rev. Chuck MacKarness wrote:
> >Having only one minor (?) issue with my bike: the "rapid road angle
> >change" when mashing the front binders, I plunged into a quick and
> >easy attempt to remedy. I added 10 psi to the cold forks and
stiffened
> >the rear re-bound. Not only did I raise the seat height (I am now 36
> >inch inseam-challenged) but I also cut the dive effect quite a bit,
> >enough for me for now.
> >
> >Anybody know if 10-psi cold will damage the seals, or promote early
> >demise?
> >
> >Maybe I should measure the fork pressure after a good long
washboard...
>
>
>
>     In my case, I went to Progressive springs and (more recently) 15
wt. fork
> oil, both of which help a great deal. I just dont have a lot of
faith in
> the air setup on the KLR. I was under the impression that proper air
> adjustable fork setups were more sophisticated than the KLRs.
>
>
> - -Tom
> '96 KLR 650
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 22:27:16 -0800
> From: [e-mail]
> Subject: Re: (klr650) Gas Tank Size
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> - --------------B6793403D41EA79719E334F6
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>
>
> Tom Clay wrote:
>
> >  For example, the
> > too-exposed water pump can be better protected by an aftermarket
bash plate
> > such as the one made by Moose [about $US70, I think - check with
Fred].
> >
>
>  $39.20 US @ MAW
>
> > Tom Clay
> > Winnipeg MB
>
> - --------------B6793403D41EA79719E334F6
> Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii;
>
=== message truncated ===

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 06 Mar 1999 11:36:20 +0000

At 10:12 PM 3/5/99 -0800, Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:
>

>I think that you can go with one gauge smaller than the stock wire, i.e. 14
>gauge for the 20 amp, and 18 or 16 gauge for the 10 amp.  Unless you are
>adding several feet of wire, the increased length shouldn't be an issue.
>There is an interesting issue with current flow through fuses.  Decrease the
>gauge of the wire (thicker wire), and you have less resistance in the wire
>and thus more current flow.  But fuses work in the principal that more
>current flow means more heat in the fuse, and that's what burns the fuse and
>blows it.  Increase the gauge of the wire, and you have the opposite effect,
>less current, and thus cooler fuse.  But this obviously is a problem, if the
>wire can't carry the required current flow for the circuit, the wire gets
>too hot, and the circuit doesn't work up to its full potential.  Granted, I
>think that Kawi might have been a little cheap with the copper, but if all
>of the wire in the looms were better gauge, and less resistance altogether,
>then the already weak charging system wouldn't be able to handle the load,
>and the battery would drain.  (All the lights would be brighter, the horn
>louder, and the starter motor faster though!)  Food for thought.


    I rewired most of my bikes lighting system something like this a few years
ago. Tired of dim, brown lights and the stock harnesses inability to carry
*any* additional load, I performed radical surjury. I ran a new, 10-gauge
hot and ground lead up to the bikes headstock and then branched it into
three seperate relays for high beams, low beams and a running light. I then
used the stock wiring, switches, etc. to acuate the control-side of the
realys. Results: much brighter headlights, a bright, switchable running
light at 37.5W and enhanced overall system reliability. Downside: I am
getting so much more current into the headlights that I can only run the
one 37.5W running light without drawing the battery down, and in town I
have to sometimes switch even the one little running light off to maintain
charging. Overall I am very pleased, however. More foreward lighting was
the major obvective and this I have achieved.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR I'm Back!
Date: 06 Mar 1999 09:13:11 -0800

Jeff
Welcome back man, we missed you.  No Dual Star pegs, I gave up and went IMS.
You missed several good rhubarbs, a bunch of great stories, lots of
technical info.  You really should read the archives as time permits.  I am
sure you noticed the changes in the web page. Kurt, Gino, and Bill have been
very busy, things are evolving nicely.  We have lots of new Listers since
you went under and our female numbers are growing, I'll warn you, some of
the ladies are real scrappers (see Wilderness Flameout).  I'd go over it but
List Commander Simpson has placed the topic off limits (along with oil,
politics, religion, etc) , I think sex is still open for discussion and it
is still ok to poke at the BMW guys.  OH Yeah you missed the E mail picture
bomb incident, that was a good one.  There have been great advances in
exhaust system research, carb tuning, suspension upgrades, and brake mods.
Be sure to check out the websits for MOAB, a lot of effort has been put into
the rally this year, we hope to see you there.  We lost some Listers over
the last few months but our numbers are still growing along with our
national and cultural diversity.
gotta go, Morgan
its bath day at the beach





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #92 SKID PLATE
Date: 06 Mar 1999 09:17:25 -0800

MOOSE makes a very good one so does White Bros.
Fred Hink has em I'm sure.
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) digest V2 #88 NKLR-boring
Date: 06 Mar 1999 12:39:01 EST

i can't tell if Redondo is a flaming boor or just deliciously evil

   if i heard your voice-would your 'oink' give you away?

dawn-using estrogen to bore in on a boorish boar


In a message dated 3/4/99 7:22:04 PM, [e-mail]
writes:

>Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 14:47:54 EST
>From: [e-mail]
>Subject: (klr650) stock vs aftermarket exhuast
-cut-
> For those of you who are more in touch with your feminine side,
> the quiet core is coming out of R&D, so I'll be testing that soon.
> Redondo Ron (with testosterone to spare)
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "e. rhoads" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR   re-hosing Bogdan
Date: 15 Feb 1999 01:51:31 -0800




P.S. Was I being Anal-Neurotic when I refitted the springs+ rubber tubes
over the new lines? Do they serve any purpose on top of steel? Anybody else
do that? Bogdan

+++++++++++

Please allowingk me to introducing myself....I am Docktor Eric.  I can help
you wis both problems.  My therapeutic rates for the treatingk for
compulsive behafvior is very reasonable.  We can discussingk this later, but
for now I tink addressing your overlay issue is more practicable.  I
suggest forgettingk the hose...it's better you should use it for vateringk
your garden.  Instead, go to electronik varehouse and pick up some
heat-shrink tubing. Applyingk this to your lines should give you good
protecting from abrasion and you can double it up for stress areas.  I
suggest you overlap as well. This should perhaps vill lookingk better than
the garden hose I tink.

Docktor Eric





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) digest V2 #88 NKLR-boring
Date: 06 Mar 1999 09:44:06 -0800

HERE WE GO AGAIN!!!!
This is gonna be great.
Trust me he is more wily than Mr.. Coyote himself.
I think I'll take a couple steps back about now.
Morgan
watching and waiting intently from the sidelines




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Cameron Cole <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) More RIP KLR
Date: 06 Mar 1999 13:55:29 -0500

I don't think what was asked was inappropriate or out-of-line.  I can
understand how the question would be misconstrued though.

Whenever you are in an accident lets all hope we walk away a little wiser
regardless of the situation.  I think that was what he was asking.  We can
all learn more and while I do consider the fact that I slowed too fast a
mistake.  I personally believe the other guy was definitely in the wrong.

Afterwards, I did lose my temper (partially from the accident and partially
from his extremely poor attitude).  When I said I hit the guy, I was being
quite literal (I still have a mean left hook).  I went way too far and
should have walked away from the imbecile.  I have no plans on suing him
since accidents happen and he is paying for medical, motorcycle, and
equipment.

IMHO, C.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Preferred Customer [mailto:[e-mail]]
> Sent: Friday, March 05, 1999 12:36 AM
> To: KLR 650
> Subject: Re: (klr650) RIP KLR
>
>
> Even though I'm a new lister and should speak only when
> spoken to, I gotta
> chime in here 'cause this is a touchy subject with me:  Sombody asked
> Cameron what he learned from the accident.  Well judging from
> the list of
> gear he was wearing (leather jacket, gloves, quality helmet,
> riding boots,
> thick pants, etc.) it would seem to me that the dude knows a
> few things
> already.  I've had a flat on my race bike, but I had some warning.  A
> blowout is very unexpected, and gives you no warning at all.
> Furthermore,
> who can figure what those dick head drivers are gonna do who
> follow way too
> close to us motorcyclists.  So my point is, what happened to
> Cameron was
> sudden and unforseeble, there was really nothing he could do.
>  But the part
> that he could control, like the gear he was wearing, he had
> covered.  The
> fact that we all ride KLR's means we are smarter than most
> motorcyclists ;)
> so dont lapse and ever ride without proper safety gear.  The
> day I got hit
> (head on at speed), I just happened to be wearing the same
> kind of stuff
> Cameron had on.  And like him, my ass was spared.  If that
> lady hit me on
> the day I wheelied my way to the gym in shirt & shorts, today
> the only place
> I'd be dual sporting would be up there in the clouds.  Most
> of the listers
> here I'm sure are into safety gear so cut me off and hit the
> delete key now.
> But for those who think that all that stuff is expensive and
> hot, think
> again, and put it on.  Cameron, glad you're OK, & hope you
> fully recover
> soon.
> BG
>
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) 0 mph get-offs...NKLR
Date: 06 Mar 1999 11:12:10 -0800

I have this devilish device I like to think of as a "memory tester." It
penalizes the user with very, very embarassing 0 MPH get offs if one fails
the memory test. Not that it's ever happened to me, of course, but I've
heard.... The "memory tester" also has the salutorious benefit of locking
your front disk so thieves can't take your bike before you come back and run
the memory test.

___________________
Rob Gendreau
Oakland, California
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 06 Mar 1999 11:36:30 -0800

    Jeff, sorry, but your theory on increasing wire size causing less
>performance is flawed. Less resistance will not equate to reduced
alternator
>output, no way, no how. I`m not going into D.C. Electricity 101 again, but
>will say that the results many of us have received by increasing wire size
>has been very good, I.e. brighter lights, fewer blown fuses etc...
>   Many factors govern wire size besides amperage; length of run, voltage,
>free wire or in a bundle with other wires, ambient temp in the area of the
>run, etc..
>    Do check the archives, there`s  a good bit about this very subject .
>
>
>Skip
>
Right, I've covered this before.  Its all in accordance with Ohm's Law.  I'm
not saying that the alternator will put out less amps, I'm saying that the
systems on the bike (lights, horn, starter, accessories) will draw more
amps.  Lets consider a simple circuit consisting of a battery, wire, switch,
fuse, and a light.  The total electropotential (voltage) of this circuit is
constant (nearly) and is supplied by the battery.  The total resistance of
the circuit is the sum of the individual resistance of every object in this
circuit, since the objects are in series.  Granted, on some objects it is
desirable to have as little resistance as possible, like for the switch and
the wire, but they do have resistance.  Ohm's law states that i = V / R,
that is, the current (amps) is equal to the Voltage divided by the
Resistance.  If you lower the resistance of the wire by going to a smaller
gauge, then you've lowered the total resistance of the circuit, and more
amps MUST flow through that circuit.  Simply stated, less R means more i.

I'll admit that my saying that the charging system would be overtaxed is
just a guess on my part, as I don't know the alternator's output, and the
total resistance of the motorcycles components. But I base this guess on how
my headlight performs when at idle (dim).  From this observation I guess
that the charging system doesn't have much reserve capacity.  If you want to
add heated apparel, GPS, radio, radar, whatever, then you will find that
you've quickly exceeded that reserve, and the battery drains.  I learned
about all of this when as a teenager, I totally replaced all of the wires in
my Beetle after burning them out.  Better wire, less resistance, 50 amp
alternator with a 300 watt stereo system, and I couldn't figure out why my
battery was always dead.  I got real good at push starting my car by myself.

Hey, I could be totally wrong here, but I won't believe it until someone
shows me the math.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) F650 Dakar Winner on BMW ON Cover
Date: 06 Mar 1999 11:49:43 -0800

> In a message dated 3/2/99 8:19:33 PM Mountain Standard Time, [e-mail]
> writes:
>
> << BUT...where
>  where the KLRs in the Dakar? >>
>
> Yada, yada, yada.  Where were the Hondas and Suzukis for that matter.

Well, there was at one HARLEY! in the race. It was covered pretty
extensively at the beginning in the TV coverage. I never heard what happened
to him. BMW did extremely well, considering almost the field was dominated
by KTMs, with some Yamahas (who won last year with Stephane Peterhansel),
Hondas, Suzukis, and even two Kawasakis (KLXs). See the list at
http://www.dakar.com/99us/.
--
___________________
Rob Gendreau
Oakland, California
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeff Hayden <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Swamp Thing?
Date: 06 Mar 1999 13:43:07 -0700

(This is my second try posting this article to this digest.)

Here is an article just posted on Motorcycle.Com:

http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mckaw/99klr650.html

--
Jeff - A13---
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj - Down Home Page






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) 0 mph get-offs...NKLR
Date: 06 Mar 1999 13:44:12

Hey Rob,

I was a flight deck crewman on the USS Enterprise back in 74-75 and
witnessed a multi-million dollar failed memory test.  Aircraft on the
ground usually get several systems "pinned" with quick release pins.  These
prevent the accidental on deck actuation of various systems like the
ejection seats and the tailhook.  Plane captains are supposed to pull all
of these pins before launch. So as not to rely completely on anybody's
memory, long red ribbons are attached to each of the pins.  We were in the
Indian Ocean far from any land based runways when one of the pilots in my
squadron couldn't get a "HOOK DOWN" light in the cockpit on his landing
approach.  No hook, no routine carrier landing.  You get the picture.  The
flight deck crew rigged the emergency net and the F-14 made a perfect
landing at about 100 knots into the industrial strength nylon mesh.  The
flight crew was unscathed but the bird was t-totally fucked up.  You
probably guessed already that the tailhook pin had not been pulled before
launch.

The upshot of this tale is that a couple of years ago I too failed the
brake rotor lock removal memory test.  Rather than attach a "REMOVE BEFORE
FLIGHT" ribbon to the lock I velcroed a 1" disk of red plastic to the lock
and put a small piece of velcro pile next to the ignition key slot.  Now,
when I use my lock I just peel off the disk and cover the key slot with it.
 Hey, memory is the first thing to go.  (Now if I could just find my key
I'd go riding!)




At 11:12 AM 3/6/99 -0800, you wrote:
>I have this devilish device I like to think of as a "memory tester." It
>penalizes the user with very, very embarassing 0 MPH get offs if one fails
>the memory test. Not that it's ever happened to me, of course, but I've
>heard.... The "memory tester" also has the salutorious benefit of locking
>your front disk so thieves can't take your bike before you come back and run
>the memory test.
>
>___________________
>Rob Gendreau
>Oakland, California
>[e-mail]
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeff Hayden <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fork Air Pressure?
Date: 06 Mar 1999 14:10:58 -0700



"Rev. Chuck MacKarness" wrote:

> Anybody know if 10-psi cold will damage the seals, or promote early
> demise?
>
> Maybe I should measure the fork pressure after a good long washboard...

As a new comer to the digest, I was waiting to see if the experienced
digesters would reply.  They didn't so here goes:

While waxing the new KLR650-A13 (3/4/99) I found a label on the left front
fork tube near the reflector that addresses the fork tube Maximum Air
Pressure issue.  "35 psi MAX"  I would use a hand style pump on it if I
were you.

--
Jeff - KLR650-A13 ---
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj          - Down Home Page
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) Moab Girls
Date: 06 Mar 1999 18:18:34 EST

I spent a delightful day building a barn today in 20 mph winds and 30 degrees.
Came in to warm up and check out Fred's revised homepage and noticed he had
the umbrella girl page.  Then I got a brilliant idea.  Think of the money we
could save at the rally by getting a bunch of umbrella girls for all the guys
and umbrella guys for the girls.  We wouldn't have to rent tents, just buy
some umbrellas.  It's not every day that the stroke of genius hits me like
this, but what do you all think?

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Alpinestar Boots
Date: 06 Mar 1999 15:32:03 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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    I have been looking for a good quality boot, waterproof, durable,
for dirt / road use, any recommendations or experience that anyone would
like to share ?
    I have reviewed the archives and would still like a little more
information. I have seen an Alpinestar Stage Goretex in black, but from
the picture they don't seem to be that well suited for off road use.

Thanks for all the excellent information, and to the people who make it
happen,

Brian -A12- BC, Canada

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--------------DB1AA0EE51B8B8E58A0B297F--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 06 Mar 1999 17:06:32 -0700


>...Snip........
>So, upgrading a wire size won't hurt, but it probably won't help either.

....Snip..................
>Could an OEM bike maker use nothing but 14ga?  Sure, with no ill effects.
>But imagine the size of the resultent wiring harness.....kinda unsightly,
and
>hard to hide, in addition to raising the cost of the bike.
>
>See ya, Dennis



Dennis,
   From one A&P (IA, DAR) to another, you`re right except that in the case
of the KLR, larger wire will help, because it`s too small now. Otherwise
when I rewired with 12AWG and 14AWG on almost all my circuits, my stock
lights wouldn`t have  become brighter. Kawasaki`s wiring practices also have
innumerable splices going on under the hood, which is money saving but
inefficient.
   Also, my bike HAS been rewired with no space problem or unsightliness. I
have relays for high beam and low beam. Tom rewired his KLR with 10AWG for
the lighting system.
    Good to see another A&P on the List. Welcome. Are you still active? I`ve
got an FBO in Montana, repairs, restorations and mods from J-3`s to jets.

 Skip ( constantly chased by one woman in particular, usually
             for doing something wrong)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) [NKRL] Hydraulic Valves
Date: 06 Mar 1999 19:23:40 -0500


--openmail-part-1953c1c2-00000001
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name="BDY.TXT"
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="BDY.TXT"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


In a curious quest for knowledge....

Can anyone point me to a web site or explain to me why Hydraulic valves never
need adjusting and how they 'self' adjust?

Also, why don't all bike have Hydraulic valves since they are so wonderful?
And please don't just tell me they cost more and that's why.  The NightHawk 750
was a cheap bike with Hydraulic  valves.  There must be a performance reason
also.

Looking for education...
Pat
Austin, TX
'97 w/ 10.8K miles

--openmail-part-1953c1c2-00000001--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Boer War of '99 (NKLR)
Date: 06 Mar 1999 19:48:22 EST

On 3/6/99, [e-mail] writes:  snip re: boring

>i can't tell if Redondo is a flaming boor or just deliciously evil
>   if i heard your voice-would your 'oink' give you away?
>dawn-using estrogen to bore in on a boorish boar

 Thanks for the heartfelt feedback Dawn.  Is there
 anything that I can do to make it more comfortable
 for you to express your feelings here?

 Redondo Ron  <----(feeling your pain)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 06 Mar 1999 17:48:17 -0700



>amps.  Lets consider a simple circuit consisting of a battery, wire,
switch,
>fuse, and a light.  The total electropotential (voltage) of this circuit is
>constant (nearly) and is supplied by the battery.  The total resistance of
>the circuit is the sum of the individual resistance of every object in this
>circuit, since the objects are in series.  Granted, on some objects it is
>desirable to have as little resistance as possible, like for the switch and
>the wire, but they do have resistance.  Ohm's law states that i = V / R,
>that is, the current (amps) is equal to the Voltage divided by the
>Resistance.  If you lower the resistance of the wire by going to a smaller
>gauge, then you've lowered the total resistance of the circuit, and more
>amps MUST flow through that circuit.  Simply stated, less R means more i.
>
>
>Jeff
>

Jeff,
  You`re right as far as Ohm`s Law goes, but there are many other factors
involved that have to be taken in account, and Ohm`s Law is not sufficient
for the whole system. You also need to remember that the appliance itself
effects the system.This bike has a complex 3-phase charging system that has
been rendered problematic, due in effect to cost cutting measures on
Kawasaki`s part, through minimal use of wire and minimum sizes of wire,
based on computer programs of the bike.  Yes, less resistance means more
current flow, but the problem is that the resistance in the system is too
high for the required draw.  The appliance is also a factor. A 60 watt light
will not draw 20 amps just because the 10AWG line will allow it and it`s
available. Because of the number of splices and connections in the KLR`s
circuit, resistance does add up.
   Going to large is one thing, but wire of insufficient gauge is another
factor. Since re-wiring, I`m using 80watt lights, running lights, GPS and
heated grips ( which I`ll be removing for other reasons) all while being
monitored by my installed volt meter, amp meter and battery monitor, all
showing a healthy charging system with no excessive draw on the battery. Go
figure.
   My last 2 cents for now.

 Skip





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Alpinestar Boots
Date: 06 Mar 1999 18:18:39 -0800

Brian,

I ride in Danner Gor-tex combat boots.  They are comfy and waterproof.  You
can ride all day in them and go hiking if you want to /have to - heck I have
even run more than a few miles in them.  They lace from just above the toe
to well past the ankle.  Having tried and owned a lot of boots these are
without a doubt the nicest ones I own.

As an added bonus they look pretty decent with dockers or jeans for those
times when you don't want to scream."..I GOTTA MOTO-CYCLE!".

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>
>    I have been looking for a good quality boot, waterproof, durable,
>for dirt / road use, any recommendations or experience that anyone would
>like to share ?
>    I have reviewed the archives and would still like a little more
>information. I have seen an Alpinestar Stage Goretex in black, but from
>the picture they don't seem to be that well suited for off road use.
>
>Thanks for all the excellent information, and to the people who make it
>happen,
>
>Brian -A12- BC, Canada
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKRL] Hydraulic Valves
Date: 06 Mar 1999 18:58:34 -0800

Hydraulic Lash Adjusters never need adjusting because they use the hydraulic
pressure supplied by the engine oil pressure to expand and take up the slack
in the valves.  That said, they require an engine oil pressure greater than
an engine without HLA's.  Higher engine oil pressure means more power from
the engine is used to drive the oil pump, more high pressure components in
the oil system, and more headaches.  Also, Hydraulic engines can be
notoriously sloppy in their valve timing, which also robs power.  When the
valves are chain driven, non-hydraulic, as the KLR's, tighter tolerances can
be used in the valve timing.  This makes the engine more efficient, which
translates to more power, which is oh-so important for the KLR.

When I was into Beetles, a company from SOCAL came out with hydraulic valve
heads.  It was found that the valve timing was sloppy, and robbed power.
Plus one had to upgrade the oil pump, and the higher pressure often caused
the oil cooler to blow its seals.

In many engines today, HLA's can be great, and when running, there is
virtually no clearance between the cams and the valves, which is efficient
indeed.  Then again, I had one HLA get gummed up and stick once, and gawd
what a racket.

Point is, there are arguments to be made both ways.  In many ways, I prefer
simpler systems.  Less things can go wrong then.  Others may prefer the ease
of maintenance aspect, not needing to ever adjust the valves.  Hell, on my
Isuzu, all I ever have to do is change the oil and filter, and adjust the
spark plug gaps.  What fun is that?  One more point, specifically for the
KLR.  You know how tight the head is in the frame now?  The head to
accommodate HLA type valves would have to be bigger.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) <NKLR>Pedersen in Cincinnati
Date: 06 Mar 1999 21:59:45 -0800

Newsflash!
Helge' Pedersen of "10 years on 2 wheels" fame for riding over, under and
around the world is going to be in Cincinnati April 7th for a
presentation
from 7:00pm - 10:30 pm. Tickets are available from BMW of the Tri-State
513.860.1114
Anyone else on this list from the Cinci area?
Norm C.
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Alpinestar Boots
Date: 06 Mar 1999 19:10:43 -0800

>I ride in Danner Gor-tex combat boots.  They are comfy and waterproof.  You
>can ride all day in them and go hiking if you want to /have to - heck I
have
>even run more than a few miles in them.  They lace from just above the toe
>to well past the ankle.  Having tried and owned a lot of boots these are
>without a doubt the nicest ones I own.
>
>As an added bonus they look pretty decent with dockers or jeans for those
>times when you don't want to scream."..I GOTTA MOTO-CYCLE!".
>
I always found the Danner Gortex to be too heavy and too HOT for my feet for
serious field use, except in very cold conditions.  I could see them being
good for riding in the cold, but after I went inside, my feet would be
sweating in them.

For that reason, I've really been liking my Corcoran Jump Boots, seriously
polished with Kiwi.  Greatly waterproof, warm enough, and don't look too
funny under my jeans at work and class.  For off-roading, I use my leather
combat boots (leg boots for you airborne types)  having to get over the
shame in not having my feet shod in my jump boots or jungle boots is worth
the comfort and protection that these boots offer.  Maybe one day I'll
invest the wampum in something like Alpinstars, but I can't imagine them
being comfortable enough to wear all over campus after my commute, and would
look kind of strange.

My absolute favorite boot to wear around all day, every day, are my HI-Tech
Magnums.  (I very rarely wear shoes.)  I don't think that these would be the
most protective for riding though, and they are an all nylon upper.  Yes,
the Danners are a great choice, except for the heat and weight aspect.  But
hey, wearing that extra weight on your feet all the time would bulk up your
leg muscles some, and after a while you wouldn't notice it anymore.






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 06 Mar 1999 19:48:39 -0800


>Jeff,
>  You`re right as far as Ohm`s Law goes, but there are many other factors
>involved that have to be taken in account, and Ohm`s Law is not sufficient
>for the whole system.

Sorry to dissagree again, but Ohm's Law is a physical law, and thus holds
true always.  Granted it isn't truly a linear relationship, as resistance
increases with temperature, but its a close enough approximation for our
purposes.  Yes, every splice and switch and what not adds resistance.  When
calculating the total resistance of a serial circuit, you must add the
resistance of every individual object in that circuit.  The entire system
consists of several parallel circuits, each one branch of the system has its
own total resistance.  Overall resistance for parallel circuits is less than
circuits in series, of course, but that's not the issue.  The entire system
has an EMF (electromotor force), the voltage, which is supplied by the
battery and the charging system, and for the most part is fairly constant,
between what 11.5 to 13.5 volts?  The entire system has a total resistance,
and the entire system has a current flowing through it, as determined by how
many devices are on and drawing current.

You yourself gave the evidence that your system is flowing more amps through
it, you said that your lights burn brighter.  If the voltage stays the same,
then the only thing that can cause this is a change in current, which means
less resistance, and more amps.  That is my only point, and it is
irrefutable.  I already said that I was guessing that the charging system
was insuffecient, based on how much my lights dim at idle.

You also need to remember that the appliance itself
>effects the system.This bike has a complex 3-phase charging system that has
>been rendered problematic, due in effect to cost cutting measures on
>Kawasaki`s part, through minimal use of wire and minimum sizes of wire,
>based on computer programs of the bike.  Yes, less resistance means more
>current flow, but the problem is that the resistance in the system is too
>high for the required draw.  The appliance is also a factor. A 60 watt
light
>will not draw 20 amps just because the 10AWG line will allow it and it`s
>available. Because of the number of splices and connections in the KLR`s
>circuit, resistance does add up.

As I said, every object in the circuit has a resistance, and they all must
be added to calculate the total resistance.
>   Going to large is one thing, but wire of insufficient gauge is another
>factor. Since re-wiring, I`m using 80watt lights, running lights, GPS and
>heated grips ( which I`ll be removing for other reasons) all while being
>monitored by my installed volt meter, amp meter and battery monitor, all
>showing a healthy charging system with no excessive draw on the battery. Go
>figure.


The argument can be made from a design standpoint that the wires are of
sufficient size if they don't get overly hot during full draw, and all the
"appliances" are functional.  This is an economic argument though, not an
efficiency argument.  In the ideal world, wires, switches, splices and other
connections would have zero resistance.  I'm very glad to hear that your
charging system can handle all of those accessories, but I'm wondering about
the thermodynamics conservation aspect, meaning if you are working your
charging system at max output at all times, with no reserve capacity, then
won't the lifespan of the system be lessened?  Consider two identical cars,
except one is powered by a V-8 and one a V-6.  All things being equal, the
V-8 should last longer, since it doesn't have to run at max power to match
the output of the V-6.

Hey, I don't claim to know it all, and I am attempting to get a more clear
understanding of this.  I would love to have brighter lights, and someday I
probably will upgrade the wires in my for my lights, but I also don't plan
on running any accessories either.  My entire point is that upgrading the
wires does make the system more efficient, but also draws more amps from the
charging system because more amps are flowing through the circuits.  OK,
I'll quit now.  My apologies for the length, and for flogging a
decommissioned beast of burden.

Jeff





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Riding Boots - for what it's worth
Date: 06 Mar 1999 22:46:25 +0000

Just for the record,

I bought some Corbin (tall) boots last year and find them to be
excellent road boots.  They are comfortable and relatively easy to get
on.  The soles absorb vibration nicely and work nicely when you have to
stand on the pegs for bumps etc....  The size I ordered fit as I
expected it to and actually was a tad roomier (can double up on socks
for cold weather riding).  In fact there is plenty of room to tuck the
cuffs in and clever expansion seams in the calf area so you don't get
abrasion.  I'm talking serious boots here....natural materials that do
require maintenance.  There is a long velcro flap that runs down the
inside seam which covers the heavy-duty zipper and helps to keep draft
out.  My only beef is that sometimes I catch a flap on a peg when I'm
taking off from a light or something and have to press it shut again.
Oh well.....


Jeff



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Boots and Jackets
Date: 06 Mar 1999 21:25:05 -0800

Lo'
Another lister was recently inquiring about riding boots... I too am looking
for some tried and true gear that might help out when the going gets rough
(cheers Cameron! sounds like you are bent but not broken!!). I am recently
back into bikes after a brief hiatus (love that word), and need to re-kit. I
have an ex-girlfriend walking around with some sweet leather, but in the
settlement I got the dog so I count myself lucky...

Questions:
Tour Master Cortech Jacket. Is this some worthy protection? Any riders have
experience with this product?
SIDI Panter Sympatex boots. They look quite durable, are looks deceiving
once again? Any riders heard tell?

I appreciate any suggestions or comments. I was doing some serious lurking
prior to making my move on the A13, and am very impressed with the
knowledge, good humor, and obvious good taste (?) of this list's members.
Searching this list's archives answered more questions than I knew how to
ask.

thnx,

Rik "blown by the wind" in Seattle  -----A13 w/250 miles clocked in much
fun!

** Oh yeah.. I work for the local BlueShield health ins. co. (Regence
BlueShield -the big guy in the NW) and might be able to help with questions
or red tape.  Give me a holler.

---




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dreas Nielsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V2 #94
Date: 06 Mar 1999 21:52:59 -0800

If you don't ordinarily use your kill switch when you park your bike, then
make it a habit to flip the switch to 'Off' whenever (and only when) you put
the disk lock on.

Dreas Nielsen
Issaquah, WA

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 11:12:10 -0800
> From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: Re: (klr650) 0 mph get-offs...NKLR
>
> I have this devilish device I like to think of as a "memory tester." It
> penalizes the user with very, very embarassing 0 MPH get offs if one fails
> the memory test. Not that it's ever happened to me, of course, but I've
> heard.... The "memory tester" also has the salutorious benefit of locking
> your front disk so thieves can't take your bike before you come
> back and run
> the memory test.
>
> ___________________
> Rob Gendreau
> Oakland, California
> [e-mail]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeff Hayden <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR .WAV files
Date: 06 Mar 1999 22:54:59 -0700

It was cold and windy day today in Albuqueruqe, so I recorded some *.WAV
files of my new A13.

Hear them at:
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/KLR

p.s.
I never exceded 4K RPM. - Yet!
--
Jeff ---
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj          - Down Home Page
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Transalp - NKLR
Date: 06 Mar 1999 22:28:27 -0800

I was reading through the archives on the Transalp.  Robert Morgan (I'm not
sure if you're still on the list - but if you are, this is for you) was
asking if the bike is legal in Canada.  Well it is.  I just saw a used
(albeit well-worn) 1986 Transalp at a local dealership.  The dealer said
that he knows of a 1987 model with way fewer miles and in excellent shape
that another guy wants to sell.  While they no longer import them into north
america (I think 1990 was the last year) there are used ones around and
they're legal in canada.

Arne Larsen
Abbotsford, BC




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Alpinestar Boots
Date: 06 Mar 1999 22:36:36 -0800



>Brian,
>
>I ride in Danner Gor-tex combat boots.  They are comfy and waterproof.  You
>can ride all day in them and go hiking if you want to /have to - heck I
have
>even run more than a few miles in them.  They lace from just above the toe
>to well past the ankle.  Having tried and owned a lot of boots these are
>without a doubt the nicest ones I own.
>
>As an added bonus they look pretty decent with dockers or jeans for those
>times when you don't want to scream."..I GOTTA MOTO-CYCLE!".
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik



Ya, but if you're running a size 13-14EE like I am, that's a lot of Danner
to fit between the footpeg and the shifter.  (I've got a couple pair of my
own for work - couldn't wear them on my Valkyrie).

Arne - size does matter!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKRL] Hydraulic Valves
Date: 06 Mar 1999 22:41:20 -0800

You mentioned that there are arguments to be made for both sides... I
thought you might find it interesting that when Honda hot-rodded the
goldwing motor for the Valkyrie, besides going from 2 carbs to 6, and
lumpier cams, they also removed the hydraulic lifters and replaced them with
solid.  They got another 1000 RPM out of the motor by doing this.

Arne - X Valkyrie owner (yes I cried), soon to be Dual-Sport owner!

-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>Hydraulic Lash Adjusters never need adjusting because they use the
hydraulic
>pressure supplied by the engine oil pressure to expand and take up the
slack
>in the valves.  That said, they require an engine oil pressure greater than
>an engine without HLA's.  Higher engine oil pressure means more power from
>the engine is used to drive the oil pump, more high pressure components in
>the oil system, and more headaches.  Also, Hydraulic engines can be
>notoriously sloppy in their valve timing, which also robs power.  When the
>valves are chain driven, non-hydraulic, as the KLR's, tighter tolerances
can
>be used in the valve timing.  This makes the engine more efficient, which
>translates to more power, which is oh-so important for the KLR.
>
>When I was into Beetles, a company from SOCAL came out with hydraulic valve
>heads.  It was found that the valve timing was sloppy, and robbed power.
>Plus one had to upgrade the oil pump, and the higher pressure often caused
>the oil cooler to blow its seals.
>
>In many engines today, HLA's can be great, and when running, there is
>virtually no clearance between the cams and the valves, which is efficient
>indeed.  Then again, I had one HLA get gummed up and stick once, and gawd
>what a racket.
>
>Point is, there are arguments to be made both ways.  In many ways, I prefer
>simpler systems.  Less things can go wrong then.  Others may prefer the
ease
>of maintenance aspect, not needing to ever adjust the valves.  Hell, on my
>Isuzu, all I ever have to do is change the oil and filter, and adjust the
>spark plug gaps.  What fun is that?  One more point, specifically for the
>KLR.  You know how tight the head is in the frame now?  The head to
>accommodate HLA type valves would have to be bigger.
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Boots and Jackets
Date: 07 Mar 1999 00:11:14 -0700

>Questions:
>Tour Master Cortech Jacket. Is this some worthy protection? Any riders have
>experience with this product?
>Searching this list's archives answered more questions than I knew how to
>ask.
>
>thnx,
>
>Rik "blown by the wind" in Seattle  -----A13 w/250 miles clocked in much
>fun!



Rik,
   Welcome! Good bike for the Northwest. It will serve you well.
I am familiar with the Cortech. It is a good jacket for the money.
Heavy-duty, waterproof, adequate ventilation, good armor system, and plenty
of pockets. Some have complained of the stiffness, but they do break in, and
many prefer the heavier Cordura (1000) that the Cortech has, over lighter
fabricated jackets such as the Kilimanjaro. I like the Kilimanjaro a lot,
but feel a little more warmth and protection is provided with the Cortech,
no proof, just gut feeling. Also, my Kilimanjaro flaps pretty bad on the
hiway, which I noticed the Cortech didn`t.
    There`s lots of opinions out there on the jackets, and you`ll probably
here them, so listen to everybody and then decide which works for you. Be
sure to try your choice on first. Even if you can`t find a dealer that
carries what you want, most mail order places I`ve been dealing with, have
agreed to let me send the jacket back if I just plain don`t like it, or
change my mind.  I`m in the process of finding a new jacket now, well, for
the last 5 months anyway.
     Good luck.

  Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] Bike week demo rides survivor
Date: 07 Mar 1999 02:24:17 -0500

Bike week is drawing to a close in Daytona today and I survived another
year without a new addition to the garage. I did test ride the following
bikes this week and found several EYE OPENING!
I rode:

    MuZ    Baghira (yeoww! Yamaha 660cc DS shoulder snatcher.             Capable of
100+mph, how I know? Long story.)
        Mastiff (yeoww squared! Lock up the drivers license!)

    Triumph    Tiger (Big... and Hungry for my knee cartilage. GOES!!!)
        Trophy 1200 (Bangor,ME.I'll be there tomorrow! Love it!)
        Speed Triple (my arms are six inches longer now!)
        Thunderbird Sport (900cc HOOLIGAN in vintage clothing)

    BMW    R1200C (Lotta TORQUE about this one. Best seller for             good
reason; $15,000!)
        GS Hernia (All Day comfort, stout, long legs, My first                fuel
injected bike-different)
        F650 (peppy, fun, er.... overpriced?)

    Kaw    Concours (I see the attraction to a bargain buy, hmmmm
              could easily make one of these mine, maybe...)
        Drifter ($11,500 for plastic fenders BUT good suspension
             in terms of a cruiser. Homogenous Owners Group)

    Suzuki    SV650 (six speed fun-I want this engine in my KLR.
               $5600 cash! Wheelie potential exists but not
               evaluated on manufacturers time.)
        Intruder (1500cc of clunky bearbox and scraped
              floorboards. A kidney punch to ride-could
              learn a thing or 2 from the Kaw Drifter susp.)
        HAYABUSA (GSXR 1900! Hah,gotcha! Saw it, couldn't touch)

    Polaris    Victory (If these guys last 10 years, FIVE years, I'll
             buy you all one! Gearbox needs a map to find
             its way into the next highest gear. Finished
             from Home Depot hardware aisle bins for $13k)

All in all, I didn't have to buy a single drop of gas, got sunburned in
the process (Sorry Don Roger!) and I'm ready for my CW/MC staffer
position. The KTM Adventure was there but when its on centerstand, you
need a step stool to see the controls. Gorgeous fit and finish (slurp,
wipe)!

DunloPad is delving into oversized rotors for the DP market, or so I was
told by the show rep. He said owners groups will help them determine
which models will get selected/targeted via input. I said where do we
input? He said, "thru your dealer". Go figure that one out...

I counted 8-10 KLR's on any given day (unscientific sampling-walking
around). Left cards I printed up with DSN logo and website address on
them. Commanded them to subscribe (Send Gino MONEY!). Talked to three
people who were interested in KLR and had already been to the website
but were/are not listers/lurkers. Spent Wednesday lsitening to Helge
Pedersen; could do that again several times a week.

Jake in Jacksonville, who has a newfound appreciation for his *PAID FOR*
KLR.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKLR] Bike week demo rides survivor
Date: 07 Mar 1999 02:28:02 -0500

Yeah, it's a beautiful bike.  How much do they cost?  Depending on how long
I am in University I'm either saving up for a KTM or a Kawasaki.

The KTM Adventure was there but when its on centerstand, you
>need a step stool to see the controls. Gorgeous fit and finish (slurp,
>wipe)!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Alpinestar Boots
Date: 07 Mar 1999 00:28:31 -0800

Might be that we are talking about different models of Danner's.  The ones I
have are part Cordura, part leather with a vibram sole.  They are only
marginally heavier then a pair of HI-Tech Magnus (I used to have these) but
they are must more supportive.  They are also very narrow from the top of
the toe to the sole, so Arne I can't see having trouble using the shifter on
any bike with them.  Having run a bunch in them I can say that they aren't
heavy at all when compared to the standard issue CDN combat boots or any of
my hiking boots.

BTW - Jeff I wear those Danners all summer on my bike with no heat related
problems.  Without going to a jungle boot style boot I can't see getting any
cooler.

From the comments made by Arne and Jeff I get the feeling there are
significantly different models of Danners out there.  I know for example
there are insulated and non-insulated Danners, must be other differences as
well.

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; KLR List <[e-mail]>


>I always found the Danner Gortex to be too heavy and too HOT for my feet
for
>serious field use, except in very cold conditions.  I could see them being
>good for riding in the cold, but after I went inside, my feet would be
>sweating in them.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) re. NKLR ....line-up
Date: 06 Mar 1999 23:51:42 -0800

Kurt,

In your Jan 26 posting of bikes from dirt to street, I noticed that you had
the BMW R-80GS and the Honda Africa Twin listed as more dirt-worthy than the
Honda Transalp.  While I haven't ridden many of these bikes either, I would
have thought that the weight of the BMW and the Africa Twin would put them
on the more street side of the Transalp (which I've seen and sat on)?  Are
they not heavier bikes?

Thanks,

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Transalp - NKLR
Date: 07 Mar 1999 00:03:45 -0800

Hey Vik,

Not yet, the dealer wants the commission, so he wasn't about to tell me who
the owner was.  When I saw the rather beat up '86, I thought, "hey, that's a
neat bike I could get used to" - really... that's what I thought =).

He's going to call me when he gets in touch with the owner.

I recall reading in the archives, that before you bought your KLR you were
considering the Transalp... I guess you're still thinking about it eh?

I'm now in "shop-mode" myself as I just sold my Valkyrie Tourer today.

What part of the world are you from?

I'll let you know what I find out..

Arne

BTW, the guy at the shop also has a '99 KLR sitting in the corner that's his
own personal bike.  He hurt his neck in a car accident and doesn't want a
bike anymore.  It's got a whopping 26 kilometers on it (that's around 18
miles for all you USAers out there).  A guy might be in a position to save
himself $1000 on a brand new bike - NO GST (again, for all you USAers,
that's a stupid additional sales tax that no one else in the world seems to
have).


-----Original Message-----


>Hey Arne,
>
>Do you have any details on that '87?....I might be interested if you could
>let me know.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Arne Larsen <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR650 List <[e-mail]>
>Date: Saturday, March 06, 1999 10:23 PM
>Subject: (klr650) Transalp - NKLR
>
>
>>I was reading through the archives on the Transalp.  Robert Morgan (I'm
not
>>sure if you're still on the list - but if you are, this is for you) was
>>asking if the bike is legal in Canada.  Well it is.  I just saw a used
>>(albeit well-worn) 1986 Transalp at a local dealership.  The dealer said
>>that he knows of a 1987 model with way fewer miles and in excellent shape
>>that another guy wants to sell.  While they no longer import them into
>north
>>america (I think 1990 was the last year) there are used ones around and
>>they're legal in canada.
>>
>>Arne Larsen
>>Abbotsford, BC
>>
>>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Alpinestar Boots
Date: 07 Mar 1999 00:08:09 -0800

As for significantly different models, I know my feet fall into that
category...  My Danners have all been the all-leather, gortex-lined,
insulated models.  So as you say, this may account for the thickness.

Arne


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; KLR List <[e-mail]>


>Might be that we are talking about different models of Danner's.  The ones
I
>have are part Cordura, part leather with a vibram sole.  They are only
>marginally heavier then a pair of HI-Tech Magnus (I used to have these) but
>they are must more supportive.  They are also very narrow from the top of
>the toe to the sole, so Arne I can't see having trouble using the shifter
on
>any bike with them.  Having run a bunch in them I can say that they aren't
>heavy at all when compared to the standard issue CDN combat boots or any of
>my hiking boots.
>
>BTW - Jeff I wear those Danners all summer on my bike with no heat related
>problems.  Without going to a jungle boot style boot I can't see getting
any
>cooler.
>
>>From the comments made by Arne and Jeff I get the feeling there are
>significantly different models of Danners out there.  I know for example
>there are insulated and non-insulated Danners, must be other differences as
>well.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeff & Lisa Walker <[e-mail]>
>To: Vik Banerjee <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
><[e-mail]>; KLR List <[e-mail]>
>Date: Saturday, March 06, 1999 7:05 PM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) Alpinestar Boots
>
>
>>I always found the Danner Gortex to be too heavy and too HOT for my feet
>for
>>serious field use, except in very cold conditions.  I could see them being
>>good for riding in the cold, but after I went inside, my feet would be
>>sweating in them.
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 07 Mar 1999 00:32:52 -0800

Gino and Kurt;

Should I hold off on a D-S purchase before hearing what these mysterious
announcements are???

Arne (money burning a hole in my pocket) Larsen




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 07 Mar 1999 01:23:44 -0700


>Sorry to dissagree again, but Ohm's Law is a physical law, and thus holds
>true always.  Granted it isn't truly a linear relationship, as resistance
>consists of several parallel circuits, each one branch of the system has
its
>own total resistance.  Overall resistance for parallel circuits is less
than
>circuits in series, of course, but that's not the issue.  The entire system
>has an EMF (electromotor force), the voltage, which is supplied



>You yourself gave the evidence that your system is flowing more amps
through
>it, you said that your lights burn brighter.  If the voltage stays the
same,
>then the only thing that can cause this is a change in current, which means
>less resistance, and more amps.  That is my only point, and it is
>irrefutable.  I already said that I was guessing that the charging system
>Jeff
>
>
 Jeff,
   I`m finished too, but I think you misunderstood me. Of course, Ohm`s Law
is a physical law and always true, along with Kirchhoff Laws, no one
disputes that. BECAUSE of Ohm`s Law, I increased my wire sizes, and am not
suffering for it, and based on everyday experience, I`m positive I won`t.  I
deal with this stuff every day, not just in theory, but in application, it`s
part of my job and I was trained very well for it.  I believe we were
agreeing, I was just saying that in the case of the KLR, insufficient wire
size was used, therefore causing increased resistance and shortening the
life of my lights. I don`t want more than the required current, I just
needed the recommended current for my lights and wasn`t getting it. I am
sure not going to hurt anything by allowing my Halogens to operate at their
required temps, they`ll last longer, thats fact. I`m sure you realize that
based on any SAE or Aerospace gauge chart, you`ll see that with all factors
taken in, (length of run, being bundled, number of splices and connections
per foot and cross-sectional coefficient, intermittent or cont.
draws,etc....) that for my A9, 18AWG and 16AWG is the bare minimum
recommended, which is not sufficient for me. I have to deal with designing
minimum requirement circuits almost every day for aircraft, but that is for
weight, not cost, so it`s not necessary to be minimalist with my bike.
   Sorry to the List for the continuation of this. Once again, different
backgrounds lead to different opinions. That`s what it`s all about. Had fun
Jeff.

 Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 07 Mar 1999 00:47:11 -0800

And all this time I've been thinking that it was the loose gypsum saddle
dapple in the sludge-pump...

Oh well..

Arne (while I only understood half of the thread, I found it interesting )


-----Original Message-----


>
>>Sorry to dissagree again, but Ohm's Law is a physical law, and thus holds
>>true always.  Granted it isn't truly a linear relationship, as resistance
>>consists of several parallel circuits, each one branch of the system has
>its
>>own total resistance.  Overall resistance for parallel circuits is less
>than
>>circuits in series, of course, but that's not the issue.  The entire
system
>>has an EMF (electromotor force), the voltage, which is supplied
>
>
>
>>You yourself gave the evidence that your system is flowing more amps
>through
>>it, you said that your lights burn brighter.  If the voltage stays the
>same,
>>then the only thing that can cause this is a change in current, which
means
>>less resistance, and more amps.  That is my only point, and it is
>>irrefutable.  I already said that I was guessing that the charging system
>>Jeff
>>
>>
> Jeff,
>   I`m finished too, but I think you misunderstood me. Of course, Ohm`s Law
>is a physical law and always true, along with Kirchhoff Laws, no one
>disputes that. BECAUSE of Ohm`s Law, I increased my wire sizes, and am not
>suffering for it, and based on everyday experience, I`m positive I won`t.
I
>deal with this stuff every day, not just in theory, but in application,
it`s
>part of my job and I was trained very well for it.  I believe we were
>agreeing, I was just saying that in the case of the KLR, insufficient wire
>size was used, therefore causing increased resistance and shortening the
>life of my lights. I don`t want more than the required current, I just
>needed the recommended current for my lights and wasn`t getting it. I am
>sure not going to hurt anything by allowing my Halogens to operate at their
>required temps, they`ll last longer, thats fact. I`m sure you realize that
>based on any SAE or Aerospace gauge chart, you`ll see that with all factors
>taken in, (length of run, being bundled, number of splices and connections
>per foot and cross-sectional coefficient, intermittent or cont.
>draws,etc....) that for my A9, 18AWG and 16AWG is the bare minimum
>recommended, which is not sufficient for me. I have to deal with designing
>minimum requirement circuits almost every day for aircraft, but that is for
>weight, not cost, so it`s not necessary to be minimalist with my bike.
>   Sorry to the List for the continuation of this. Once again, different
>backgrounds lead to different opinions. That`s what it`s all about. Had fun
>Jeff.
>
> Skip
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Boots/Jackets... and spending more money.
Date: 07 Mar 1999 01:37:43 -0800

Just so ya know...
---------
Tour Master Cortech Jacket. Is this some worthy protection? Any riders have
>experience with this product?
>SIDI Panter Sympatex boots. They look quite durable, are looks deceiving
>once again? Any riders heard tell?
--------
I did read the archived info re. the Tour Master Jacket... lots of good
stuff. I should have asked specifically if perhaps there have been design
changes, any new words on the subject? Seems like for the price its still a
decent contender for the money.

Maybe the SIDI Panter boot model is new to their line... What the heck is a
Panter anyway? My dog does this sometimes when the next door neighbor's
poodle comes out for her morning constitutional. [her owner has a similar
effect on me] ;]

-- Rik "waitin' for the sun" in Seattle...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low fender
Date: 07 Mar 1999 11:05:27 -0000

I've seen a lightweight metal `arm` that fits over the top of the mudguard
to stop it bending upwards available in motocross catalogues (and M&P).  It
comes in various colours and looks good!!


-----Original Message-----


>Has anyone considerded re-mounting the factory front fender down lower
>to the wheel? I get this "full jib-sail" effect when being passed by
>an oncoming semi...
>
>
>
>
>==
>Rev. Chuck
>'99 KLR651
>:^)>+
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New KLR650-A13
Date: 07 Mar 1999 11:20:28 -0000

A manual in the UK would cost me about $60, for one.
Do you know if the manuals are available mailorder across the pond?

Thanks - Andy


-----Original Message-----


>At 08:53 AM 3/5/99 -0700, Jeff Hayden wrote:
>>I just got my first KLR650 yesterday and found this digest today.
>>Immediately subscribed and am looking forward to a long relationship with
>>the bike and the digest.
>>
>>I will update my web site soon with photos and KLR links soon.
>>
>>In the mean time, can anyone answer these few questions:
>>What can I expect to pay for a service manual?
>
>
> Ahh, the manual...manualS, that is. One of the more annoying features of
>KLR ownership is that the only avaialble manual is the factory one, and it
>is in reality *two* manuals, the KLR 600 base manual and the KLR 650
>supplement. Essentialy, the base manual has most of the core engine stuff
>in it and the supplement has everything else, plus the engine updates the
>650 recieved over the 600. I got mine from my local dealer and payed about
>$38 for the pair.
>
>
>>How much air pressure should I have in the front shock tubes for freeway
>>use while traveling to the mountains here in New Mexico?
>
> Generaly, the front suspention should be run at ambient (ie "0") pressure.
>
>
>>AND; My dealer will not do my 500 mile check up.  What essentials do I
need
>>to download (Shimcalc?) or purchase from the dealer?  I am motorcycle
>>literate and have common metric tools.
>
>
> Chances are you will only need a feeler gauge to check clearances. If you
>have one out of spec the manuals have a useable chart for shim swapping. I
>need to try Shimcalc. I hope your dealer will at least work some kind of
>swap on the shims, if needed.
>
>
>-Tom
>'96 KLR 650
>
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fastline braking stuff
Date: 07 Mar 1999 12:14:52 -0000

They're very easy to get hold of in the UK.  Goodrich do them and will
plastic coat them in a colour of your choice.  I've just received `standard`
KLR issue for ú21.  I've even had blue banjo bolts to match.
They're available from M&P (08705 703030) but I don't think they have a
website.

Andy

-----Original Message-----


>Anyone know of a web site or a vendor that carries fastline steel braided
>cables? They seem to offer colored cables where Russell doesnt. Also not
>thrilled about the prospect of buying a cable and finding out its not
>covered all the way down with plastic to keep it from wearing holes in the
>fender.
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKLR] Bike week demo rides survivor
Date: 07 Mar 1999 09:27:38 EST

In a message dated 3/7/99 12:18:49 AM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Suzuki    SV650 (six speed fun-I want this engine in my KLR.
                $5600 cash! Wheelie potential exists but not
                evaluated on manufacturers time.) >>

This could very well be my next bike.  I have test road it twice, and love the
motor.  I wixh I could jam it into the KLR also.  The bike is a bit compact
for me, but who cares?  Get it jetted correctly and it will wheelie at will.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Alpinestar Boots
Date: 07 Mar 1999 09:34:33 EST

In a message dated 3/6/99 4:34:07 PM Mountain Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<<   I have been looking for a good quality boot, waterproof, durable,
 for dirt / road use, any recommendations or experience that anyone would
 like to share ? >>

I have the Alpinestar NordTrail boot, but they have discontinued it.  It looks
like a tamed down motocross boot, with metal buckles and a large plastic shin
guard, but is lighter and has a sole that allows you to walk easily.  They
have a new model out, but can't remember the name.  Tiding around town, I wear
Sears steel toes, but touring or offroad riding, I wear the Alpinestars.

A lot of people also like the Aerostich Combat Touring boot.  I know Bill
Haycock swears by these things as do many of the BMW dual sport touring crowd.
They would be worth a look.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) UNSUBSCRIBE
Date: 07 Mar 1999 10:11:08 EST

I'm going to take a break from all the e-mail for a while guys. Probably come
back later. What do I need to do unsubscribe?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 07 Mar 1999 08:42:47 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Gino and Kurt;
>
>Should I hold off on a D-S purchase before hearing what these mysterious
>announcements are???
>
>Arne (money burning a hole in my pocket) Larsen
>
>
>

Hey Arne,

If you need a good place to spend your money, I just happen to know a great
bike shop that would appreciate the business.  ;<)

Gino and Kurt are lucky to have the pulse of the motorcycle industry by the
throat (or some other body part) and are the first to know what is new to be
released before the rest of us mear mortals.  If I were you I would wait to
see what new monster bike the manufactures will come up with.  I am sure it
will be "veeeery interesting" (Artie Johnson imitation)

I personally am drooling over my visions of what Honda is coming out with to
replace my XR600R.  The last I have heard about this mystery bike is that
Honda has sent it back to R&D to make it better.  Guess we will have to be
satisfied with new graphics (again!)  So what else is new??

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                    Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW*
                           435-259-7356
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dean Harrison <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: (NKLR) Boots and Jackets
Date: 07 Mar 1999 08:05:47 -0800


__________________snip___________________________
Questions:
Tour Master Cortech Jacket. Is this some worthy protection? Any riders
have
experience with this product?
__________________snip___________________________

Yes, don't count on the 100% waterproof claim. I returned the first one
for leaking like a sieve (through the upper vent zippers) and the second
one leaked too. Rider magazine pointed out the same problem in their
review. FWIW

--
Dean in Seattle 95 VFR, 94 KLR650





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: NKLR Honda gossip
Date: 07 Mar 1999 08:53:54 -0800

Fred, I heard water cooled, aluminum frame, 500/600/650 displacement. Due
out late summer, early next year. I was told it would be for the 2000 model
year. That info came from someone at Chaparral who seemed to be tapped into
the factory rep pretty well. We'll see. My perspective on the automotive end
of American Honda is that they play their cards pretty close to their
chests. The automotive R&D building at Honda corporate literally has 20 foot
walls around it with armed guards.  Industrial espionage and corporate
disinformation not withstanding, we all will have to wait and see.  I am
still waiting for gossip on the Veradero.
Morgan
(I live in San Diego and I still don't know where the hell Carmen is)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 07 Mar 1999 09:12:15 -0800

Fred, I'd love to be able to bring you my business.  Unfortunately there are
too many miles between us.  Thanks for the advice - let's hope the wait
isn't too long...

Arne


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Arne Larsen <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR650 List <[e-mail]>
>Date: Saturday, March 06, 1999 6:33 PM
>Subject: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
>
>
>>Gino and Kurt;
>>
>>Should I hold off on a D-S purchase before hearing what these mysterious
>>announcements are???
>>
>>Arne (money burning a hole in my pocket) Larsen
>>
>>
>>
>
>Hey Arne,
>
>If you need a good place to spend your money, I just happen to know a great
>bike shop that would appreciate the business.  ;<)
>
>Gino and Kurt are lucky to have the pulse of the motorcycle industry by the
>throat (or some other body part) and are the first to know what is new to
be
>released before the rest of us mear mortals.  If I were you I would wait to
>see what new monster bike the manufactures will come up with.  I am sure it
>will be "veeeery interesting" (Artie Johnson imitation)
>
>I personally am drooling over my visions of what Honda is coming out with
to
>replace my XR600R.  The last I have heard about this mystery bike is that
>Honda has sent it back to R&D to make it better.  Guess we will have to be
>satisfied with new graphics (again!)  So what else is new??
>
>Fred Hink
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>                    Arrowhead Motorsports
>http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW*
>                           435-259-7356
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 07 Mar 1999 10:23:22 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Fred, I'd love to be able to bring you my business.  Unfortunately there
are
>too many miles between us.  Thanks for the advice - let's hope the wait
>isn't too long...
>
>Arne
>


Hey Arne,

Where do you live?  Antarctica?  The Moon?  I have sold parts to our Turkish
Doctor Say and Lister Pippo in Italy.  Seems like the mail goes that far at
least.  :<)

Fred   (I may be down but don't count me out - whoever invented hamstrings
ought to be shot!) :<(




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (KTM 650) field operative reports
Date: 07 Mar 1999 09:14:57 -0800

Gino
I finally heard some feedback from my KTM friends.  Scott put DSN in the
hands of the KTM President at a marketing meeting. They were impressed.
They really liked the LC4 review.  The favorable article meant even more to
him in that it was written up in a newsletter that was formerly geared
toward one of their competitors bikes in the same market niche.  The LC4 is
in the showroom now. The Adventure R should be there this month if it isn't
already.  Watch for the new KTM commercial airing next week or so on
Speedvision, another good buddy of mine did the music.  I have a feeling
this could be the year Dual Sorting really takes off in this country.
Morgan
Carlsbad Ca.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 07 Mar 1999 09:17:29 -0800

Arne
I have ordered stuff from Fred in Moab and had it in my mailbox in San Diego
the next afternoon.  I'm giving Fred the credit here not the Post Office by
the way.
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (KTM 650) field operative reports
Date: 07 Mar 1999 09:42:09 -0800

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Any mention of if or when Canada could see those bikes in the showroom ???

Robert Morgan wrote:

> Gino
> The LC4 is in the showroom now. The Adventure R should be there this month if
> it isn't
> already.   I have a feeling this could be the year Dual Sorting really takes
> off in this country.
> Morgan
> Carlsbad Ca.

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #97
Date: 07 Mar 1999 13:00:11 EST

In a message dated 3/7/99 8:02:25 AM Pacific Standard Time, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

> A lot of people also like the Aerostich Combat Touring boot.  I know Bill
>  Haycock swears by these things as do many of the BMW dual sport touring
> crowd.
>  They would be worth a look.
>

Has anyone tried the Malcom Smith World Tour Boots? They look on the web page
but don't give any specs.

Gary



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #97
Date: 07 Mar 1999 11:17:19 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>In a message dated 3/7/99 8:02:25 AM Pacific Standard Time, owner-
>[e-mail] writes:
>
>> A lot of people also like the Aerostich Combat Touring boot.  I know Bill
>>  Haycock swears by these things as do many of the BMW dual sport touring
>> crowd.
>>  They would be worth a look.
>>
>
>Has anyone tried the Malcom Smith World Tour Boots? They look on the web
page
>but don't give any specs.
>
>Gary
>
>

Gary,

I just bought me some MSR System 6 boots.  The MSR System 6 and Rage boots
are made by Alpinestars, I am not sure about the MSR World Tour.  They look
like they have the same buckle system as the others but I can't tell for
sure.  I like my System 6 boots for the replaceable panel in the footpeg
area.  The rest of the boot is very quality made, alot stiffer than my
Gaerne ISDE boots that I replaced.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (KTM 650) field operative reports
Date: 07 Mar 1999 12:35:00 -0800



----------
> From: Robert Morgan <[e-mail]>

> I have a feeling
> this could be the year Dual Sporting really takes off in this country.
> Morgan
> Carlsbad Ca.

Anybody have any thoughts on why dual sport bikes haven't been as popular
as sport-utility vehicles have been in the last few years?  At least in
purpose of design,  DP bikes seem like the SUV's equivalent in the
motorcycling world.

Carlos
Milwaukee, WI



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKLR] Bike week demo rides survivor
Date: 07 Mar 1999 15:00:03 -0500

-----Original Message-----
>
><< Suzuki SV650 (six speed fun-I want this engine in my KLR.
>
>This could very well be my next bike.  I have test road it twice, and love the
>motor.  I wixh I could jam it into the KLR

Sounds like the bike you fellows want is the Cagiva E-650 Elefant.
It had a Ducati Pantah 650cc, twin cylinder, with 2 desmo valves
per cylinder, engine.  The bike was more dirt oriented than later
Ducati E-900 Elefants.  Alas, it was only imported during 1987
(and maybe 1988).  This bike, while neat sounding and fun to ride
on the street, is a good deal heavier than the KLR 650.

Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Pederson Show
Date: 07 Mar 1999 12:35:48 -0800

A good dog is worth way more than riding gear and even your bike!.....Hey I
was wondering if Helge Pederson was doing a show for Ten years on two wheels
in Seattle?

If so I might bomb down for it.

Cheers,

Vik

--------------------

Vik,
Damn straight about the dog! Nuff' said on that point. In regards to the
Helge Pederson show, I will do a little digging around and see what turns
up. After all the talk about this guy, I too would like to see what he's all
about.

--c ya
         -rik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) 0 mph get-offs...NKLR
Date: 07 Mar 1999 15:48:28 -0500

>The upshot of this tale is that a couple of years ago I too failed the
>brake rotor lock removal memory test.  Rather than attach a "REMOVE BEFORE
>FLIGHT" ribbon to the lock I velcroed a 1" disk of red plastic to the lock
>and put a small piece of velcro pile next to the ignition key slot.  Now,
>when I use my lock I just peel off the disk and cover the key slot with it.
> Hey, memory is the first thing to go.  (Now if I could just find my key
>I'd go riding!)

What a great idea!  Now, if I can just find the bike...

Stuart
Juno Beach, FL



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mark <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Alpinestar Boots
Date: 07 Mar 1999 15:54:40 -0500

>In a message dated 3/6/99 4:34:07 PM Mountain Standard Time, [e-mail]
>writes:
>
><<   I have been looking for a good quality boot, waterproof, durable,
> for dirt / road use, any recommendations or experience that anyone would
> like to share ? >>

I wear Thor 327 boots. I think they're a lot of boot for $99. I don't know
how water-proof you need, but they do well when riding in hard rain and for
walking in puddles. They survived two crashes on pavement in the last three
weeks (don't ask) and still look great. Also, they're a bit calmer looking
than other moto boots out there. They're comfy and warm too. Note: they run
about a half-size big which is good if you want a second pair of socks for
those 15F mornings.
Mark
B2 "The Poser"
A2 "The Woods Warrior"





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Moab Girls
Date: 07 Mar 1999 15:56:59 -0500

At 06:18 PM 3/6/99 -0500, [e-mail] wrote:
>I spent a delightful day building a barn today in 20 mph winds and 30
degrees.
>Came in to warm up and check out Fred's revised homepage and noticed he had
>the umbrella girl page.  Then I got a brilliant idea.  Think of the money we
>could save at the rally by getting a bunch of umbrella girls for all the guys
>and umbrella guys for the girls.  We wouldn't have to rent tents, just buy
>some umbrellas.  It's not every day that the stroke of genius hits me like
>this, but what do you all think?

Gino,
Wind chill did it to you again, did it?  The entire Dual Sport and KLR
material, printed and online, is remarkably free from girly stuff compared
to other motorcycle outlets.  I don't know why, but I suspect if you did
all of this that the price would go up again next year and you'd see a lot
more guys show up at Fred's.  Next thing you'll see is Fred working
overtime arranging referrals to love-struck monkey butts.   Isn't there a
law or something?

I'm in favor.  How can I help?

Stuart



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Boots and Jackets
Date: 07 Mar 1999 16:03:37 -0500

>SIDI Panter Sympatex boots. They look quite durable, are looks deceiving
>once again? Any riders heard tell?

I bought a pair of SIDI's and sent them back because they were too
lightweight.  They were extremely comfortable however, but with the steel
pegs on the KLR and off-road use it wasn't going to work.  I ended up
buying monster Alpinestar Tech 8's and carry a set of lightweight shoes in
the luggage.  Now when I get hit with one of those giant hard-shell bugs in
the leg, I don't feel a thing.

Stuart
A12
Juno Beach, Florida



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Paul Christenson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) 0 mph get-offs...NKLR
Date: 07 Mar 1999 13:14:44 PST

>I have this devilish device I like to think of as a "memory tester."
>It penalizes the user with very, very embarassing 0 MPH get offs if
>one fails the memory test.

>The "memory tester" also has the salutorious benefit of locking
>your front disk so thieves can't take your bike before you come back
>and run the memory test.

Which is exactly why I put my disc lock on the REAR wheel.  The
penalties for failure aren't quite so embarassing (or painful).

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Pederson Show
Date: 07 Mar 1999 16:18:25 -0500

At 12:35 PM 3/7/99 -0800, ripkid wrote:
>Hey I was wondering if Helge Pederson was doing a show for Ten years on
two wheels
>in Seattle?

Helge lives in Seattle, does shows there more regularly than elsewhere.  I
finally got to meet him in person at Daytona last Thursday - a heck of a
nice guy.  Also got to meet Florida Frank and a few others, including some
Iron Butt aficionados.

Stuart
A12
Juno Beach, FL



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 07 Mar 1999 16:12:40 EST

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In a message dated 3/7/99 11:29:00 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I have ordered stuff from Fred in Moab and had it in my mailbox in San
Diego
 the next afternoon.  I'm giving Fred the credit here not the Post Office by
 the way.
 Morgan
  >>

I not only second this on after market stuff, but Fred has been able to get me
genuine Kawaski parts faster than my local dealer, and I'm all the way out in
MN, (that's almost the arctic, but not quite) so if you can't find it locally
or they have to order it, give Fred a call.

MN Ron

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Arne
I have ordered stuff from Fred in Moab and had it in my mailbox in San Die=
go
the next afternoon.  I'm giving Fred the credit here not the Post Office b=
y
the way.
Morgan




--part0_920841160_boundary--



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (KTM 650) field operative reports
Date: 07 Mar 1999 16:32:14 -0500

Well, at least here in New York, there are no "legal, public" places to
ride. I've spent my entire Saturday researching places (it was snowing
anyway). So far I've found one forest in PA, the Alleghany, way out by Oh=
io,
a few seasonal trails in MA, one "pay-to-play" off-road park in NJ.
Everything else is "illegal". All this and NY requires ALL ATV's to
registered and insured, even when solely used on ones own property, for t=
he
purposes of a "trail fund", yeah right, try ,"balance the budget fund" th=
is
seems to be the problem all over the Northeast.
Plus, DP's just don't generate the "STATUS" that a SUV generates, which i=
n
my opinion is a major reason why people buy the damn things anyhow.
That's the way I see it, at least around here, anyway.
What I should do is move to North Carolina or maybe Arizona, at least at
these places, you can still do stuff, like have fun.
New York Pete
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>
>
>----------
>> From: Robert Morgan <[e-mail]>
>
>> I have a feeling
>> this could be the year Dual Sporting really takes off in this country.
>> Morgan
>> Carlsbad Ca.
>
>Anybody have any thoughts on why dual sport bikes haven't been as popula=
r
>as sport-utility vehicles have been in the last few years?  At least in
>purpose of design,  DP bikes seem like the SUV's equivalent in the
>motorcycling world.
>
>Carlos
>Milwaukee, WI
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 07 Mar 1999 17:43:10 +0000

March has come in like a lion up here in New England.

Went to start up my KLR yesterday (1st time in 2 weeks) and had to bump
start it due to a low battery.  Got it going after the third hop though
(and didn't kick out the rear directional signals in the process).  Took
a five miler by Long Island Sound and thought about how happy I should
be with the 40 degree heat wave.  Today there's snow on the ground, 40
mph winds and highs in the 20's.  Dam I can't wait for summer.  These
short rides have to do for now.

I checked my chain adjustment (cold) according to the lister that said
it should be within about a 1/16th inch from the padded forward part of
the swingarm when you push up on it from the bottom and low and behold I
had it right on the money.  It's much easier than trying to eye-ball it
with a ruler!  I was concerned about that because I made the foolish
mistake of damaging one countershaft already.  Lot's of cool info on
this list.

Time to crank up the trickle charger, top off the cells, and get my last
12 months out of this 36 month wonder.  KLR batteries aren't cheap.  I
think this gem cost me about $70.00 filled from a dealer 2 years ago.
It shocked me a little because I used to buy Dorsey batteries for
previous bikes for a lot less.  Just had to be careful with the acid
bag.  I think I'll shop around next time.

Jeff



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: (NKLR) Boots and Jackets
Date: 07 Mar 1999 14:15:03 -0800

>
>Yes, don't count on the 100% waterproof claim. I returned the first one
>for leaking like a sieve (through the upper vent zippers) and the second
>one leaked too. Rider magazine pointed out the same problem in their
>review. FWIW
>
>--
>Dean in Seattle 95 VFR, 94 KLR650
>
Dean ought to know, riding in Seattle.  Been there, done that.  I was very
impressed with my Kilimanjaro's waterproofness while riding there.  If it
leaked, I didn't notice.  And if it did leak, the fleece liner kept me warm
anyway.

Jeff
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Alpinestar Boots
Date: 07 Mar 1999 14:06:26 -0800

>BTW - Jeff I wear those Danners all summer on my bike with no heat related
>problems.  Without going to a jungle boot style boot I can't see getting
any
>cooler.
>
>From the comments made by Arne and Jeff I get the feeling there are
>significantly different models of Danners out there.  I know for example
>there are insulated and non-insulated Danners, must be other differences as
>well.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik


I was referring to the Danner insulated boots that were issued to us for
winter use.  They were an all leather boot, with an insulated Gortex liner.
They were like putting on Frankenstein's boots.  I thought that these were
what you were talking about, since they were the only issue type of Danner.
I haven't been a military clothing sales for over two years now though.  I
think that I would prefer wearing my Hi-Techs over Jungle boots for riding,
just because I know that if my feet get wet, at least the Magnums will
insulate somewhat.  I've nearly gotten frostbite from riding with jungles in
the rain before.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Miles to go...(NKLR)
Date: 07 Mar 1999 14:56:26 PST

Rev Chuck wrote:

>My only problem to date with the KLR is I don't have enough time to
>ride it.

Hmmmm...  Little time to ride means a busy schedule for you which in
your case means people must not be behaving themselves.  Maybe you
should consider giving us a running odometer count so we can have some
idea of how the human race is doing.  On second thought...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (KTM 650) field operative reports
Date: 07 Mar 1999 15:08:24 -0800

Well, at least here in New York, there are no "legal, public" places to
ride. I've spent my entire Saturday researching places (it was snowing
anyway). So far I've found one forest in PA, the Alleghany, way out by Ohio,
a few seasonal trails in MA, one "pay-to-play" off-road park in NJ.
Everything else is "illegal". All this and NY requires ALL ATV's to
registered and insured, even when solely used on ones own property, for the
purposes of a "trail fund", yeah right, try ,"balance the budget fund" this
seems to be the problem all over the Northeast.
Plus, DP's just don't generate the "STATUS" that a SUV generates, which in
my opinion is a major reason why people buy the damn things anyhow.
That's the way I see it, at least around here, anyway.
What I should do is move to North Carolina or maybe Arizona, at least at
these places, you can still do stuff, like have fun.
New York Pete


>
>Anybody have any thoughts on why dual sport bikes haven't been as popular
>as sport-utility vehicles have been in the last few years?  At least in
>purpose of design,  DP bikes seem like the SUV's equivalent in the
>motorcycling world.
>
>Carlos
>Milwaukee, WI
>
I agree.  Buying SUV's has become a real status thing.  Talk about
pretentiousness!  A MERCEDES SUV!  Please!  If that isn't a status thing,
then I don't know what is.  Here in WA we USE our SUV's.  I got mine to get
around off road for hunting, skiing, fishing, mountainbiking, hiking,
camping, and all the other things I do that takes me off the pavement.  If I
didn't do at least one activity like that per month, then I would have just
gotten a minivan with studded tires for the snow.

Pretentiousness in motorcycles seems to be for BMW and HD owners, not true
Dual Sporters who actually ride there bikes off road, where they get muddy,
scratched and beat up.  If you fall into the catagory that is offended by my
remarks, sorry to hear that you're just another typical American consumer.
If you want to flame me back, feel free.  If its interesting enough, I might
just put down my copy of Thoreau long enough to reply.

Jeff--"Simplify, simplify, simplify"






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 07 Mar 1999 15:19:51 -0800

>Time to crank up the trickle charger, top off the cells, and get my last
>12 months out of this 36 month wonder.  KLR batteries aren't cheap.  I
>think this gem cost me about $70.00 filled from a dealer 2 years ago.
>It shocked me a little because I used to buy Dorsey batteries for
>previous bikes for a lot less.  Just had to be careful with the acid
>bag.  I think I'll shop around next time.
>
>Jeff
>
Seems to me, Fred had some batteries listed on his site for much less than
that.  I thought that my battery was a goner after this winter, but after
topping off the cells, (maybe about 10 cc's of distilled water needed,) and
some progressive charging (about 10 seconds at 50 amps, 5 minutes at ten
amps, and overnight at a trickle)  the battery has performed great for the
last two weeks.  I'm not sure how old this battery is, as I bought my A3
last year, but it looks pretty used, and one of the cell caps broke off and
I had to glue it in permanently.  (Thankfully that cell is still topped
off).

Jeff--Deep in the heart of the Columbia Basin, Washington




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) RE: Parts from Fred
Date: 07 Mar 1999 18:28:34 -0500


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Fred wrote:>>>>
Where do you live?  Antarctica?  The Moon?
<<<<<<

Arnie:

I have spent some time in Antarctica and I would bet that Fred could easily get
parts to you there (the problem is getting the permits to run a combustion
engine vehicle on the continent).

Now the moon.... I am sure Fred *could* get you parts shipped there, but you
would have to pay for shipping.  If that indeed is your location, I might
suggest going to your local dealer to avoid the shipping cost.  ;)

Pat
Austin, TX
'97 w/ 10.8K miles

--openmail-part-1954e03e-00000001--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 07 Mar 1999 16:45:22 -0700

What ever happened to the good Docter Birol?
>  I have sold parts to our Turkish
> Doctor Say



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) RE: Moab Girls
Date: 07 Mar 1999 18:44:38 -0500


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Gino wrote:>>>>>>
>Came in to warm up and check out Fred's revised homepage and noticed he had
>the umbrella girl page.
<<<<<<

Hey, that Fred is a marketing genius, isn't he!!

Pat
Austin, TX
'97 KLR @ 10.8K miles

--openmail-part-1954f25e-00000001--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Moab 99
Date: 07 Mar 1999 18:44:46 -0500


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Does anyone from Texas plan on riding hard; ie, darn near non-stop (either on
the bike on in a truck/trailer) to the Moab Rally this year?  If so, please
email me.  I wanna go, but I need someone to complain with if I am going to do
the 1,000 mile journey on the KLR.

[e-mail]
Austin, TX

--openmail-part-1954f2f6-00000001--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Moab Girls
Date: 07 Mar 1999 16:52:12 -0700


-----Original Message-----


Hey, that Fred is a marketing genius, isn't he!!

Pat
Austin, TX
'97 KLR @ 10.8K miles


Now if I could just figure out how to give away free beer, then I would have
something.

Fred





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR  disk lock w/alarm
Date: 07 Mar 1999 18:01:53 -0000

Try a Xena disk lock.  The alarm on it probably works better to protect your
bike from you, rather than a thief, but...

http://www.mgx.co.uk/




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Helge Pederson Show
Date: 07 Mar 1999 16:13:51 -0800

Hey I
was wondering if Helge Pederson was doing a show for Ten years on two wheels
in Seattle?

If so I might bomb down for it.

Cheers,

Vik
-------------------
>Hey I was wondering if Helge Pederson was doing a show for Ten years on
two wheels
>in Seattle?

Helge lives in Seattle, does shows there more regularly than elsewhere.

Stuart
A12
Juno Beach, FL
-----------------------

Ok Vik,

Heres my Plan. You bomb down here with a case of Canadian (not sparkling
water). We then load up on lutefisk and head over to Helge's place for a bit
of a chat.

Who would have thunk this could be so damn convenient?

----rik in Seattle with an A13 cooling down after a sweet ride in brilliant
spring weather... blah, blah, blah...





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 07 Mar 1999 16:12:46 -0800

Thanks, I'll be sure to keep Fred in mind.  I've got a feeling that if I
hook up with a KLR that he would be a great deal more knowledgeable than
most out here.

Arne


-----Original Message-----


>At 09:12 AM 3/7/99 -0800, you wrote:
>>Fred, I'd love to be able to bring you my business.  Unfortunately there
are
>>too many miles between us.  Thanks for the advice - let's hope the wait
>>isn't too long...
>
>Hi Arne,
>
>Just wanted to drop you a note - I know you're in Canada, but Fred has been
>great for all my mailorder stuff.  I live in Florida, and his prices have
>been competitive even with first class mail shipping.
>
>Best,
>
>Stuart
>KLR A12
>Juno Beach, Florida  USA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Pederson Show
Date: 07 Mar 1999 16:15:22 -0800

I would be willing to put money down (well, almost willing) that Helge
doesn't get bugged too much about the fact that he rides an F650.  Does he
ride this bike by choice, or is he sponsored by BMW?

Arne

-----Original Message-----


>At 12:35 PM 3/7/99 -0800, ripkid wrote:
>>Hey I was wondering if Helge Pederson was doing a show for Ten years on
>two wheels
>>in Seattle?
>
>Helge lives in Seattle, does shows there more regularly than elsewhere.  I
>finally got to meet him in person at Daytona last Thursday - a heck of a
>nice guy.  Also got to meet Florida Frank and a few others, including some
>Iron Butt aficionados.
>
>Stuart
>A12
>Juno Beach, FL




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Pederson Show
Date: 07 Mar 1999 16:44:48 -0800

Erik (with the scandahoovian name)

You won't hear me ever slagging the Beemer.  The name "Fund..." yes, (I said
in an earlier post I'd never say the name outloud) but not the bike.
However, I don't think the Rotax/Bombadier engine is used by KTM - I could
be mistaken, but I believe they have their own.  Aprilia (whom BMW developed
the frame from) have their own version of the F650 called the Pegaso 650.
If I recall correctly, I think Aprilia also uses the Rotax motor, but in a
5-valve configuration.  BMW lost the center valve and put a second spark
plug in it's place.

Arne (with another scandahoovian name)


-----Original Message-----
Cc: klr <[e-mail]>


>On Sun, 7 Mar 1999, Arne Larsen wrote:
>
>> I would be willing to put money down (well, almost willing) that Helge
>> doesn't get bugged too much about the fact that he rides an F650.  Does
he
>> ride this bike by choice, or is he sponsored by BMW?
>>
>> Arne
>
>It seems that Pederson could ride a velo-solex and nobody would be allowed
>to say anything to the man that spent ten years on two wheels.  Also,
>despite the outrageous price of the F650 (and the downright stupid name
>"Funduro"), the bike did make significant strides towards respectablility
>by its dominant showing in the Dakkar race.  Also, the Rotax engines that
>they use are, if I'm very much mistaken, the same used by KTM.  Not that
>I'm running out to buy a beemer any time soon, but it seems to be much
>less the joke bike than it used to be.
>
>Allbests,
>
>Erik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Alpinestar Boots
Date: 07 Mar 1999 18:03:03 -0700


    Let me put in a word for Vasque Sundowners.They're not cheap,
$180-200 U.S. (What's the loonie worth now?), but I believe a great value
Completely waterproof, they come in widths & you can walk all day in them.
Best part, they're cool (In both ways but here I mean the original sense of
the word). Much cooler than running shoes for example. I've ridden and
walked in them when it was 100+ many times. I buy them so they fit with
Spenco inserts. That way for winter rides (like yesterday) removing the
inserts makes room for warm socks. They don't offer the protection of a
serious off road boot, of course, but that boot would be too hot & you
couldn't walk in it.They're resoleable: They're everywhere: I've used them
for years. Bogdan



>     I have been looking for a good quality boot, waterproof, durable,
> for dirt / road use, any recommendations or experience that anyone would
> like to share ?
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 07 Mar 1999 20:17:58 +0000

At 03:19 PM 3/7/99 -0800, Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:
>>Time to crank up the trickle charger, top off the cells, and get my last
>>12 months out of this 36 month wonder.  KLR batteries aren't cheap.  I
>>think this gem cost me about $70.00 filled from a dealer 2 years ago.
>>It shocked me a little because I used to buy Dorsey batteries for
>>previous bikes for a lot less.  Just had to be careful with the acid
>>bag.  I think I'll shop around next time.
>>
>>Jeff
>>
>Seems to me, Fred had some batteries listed on his site for much less than
>that.  I thought that my battery was a goner after this winter, but after
>topping off the cells, (maybe about 10 cc's of distilled water needed,) and
>some progressive charging (about 10 seconds at 50 amps, 5 minutes at ten
>amps, and overnight at a trickle)  the battery has performed great for the
>last two weeks.  I'm not sure how old this battery is, as I bought my A3
>last year, but it looks pretty used, and one of the cell caps broke off and
>I had to glue it in permanently.  (Thankfully that cell is still topped
>off).



    Strange. My 30-something dollar Wal-Mart battery is now beginning its
third year in my bike. Still going strong.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 07 Mar 1999 21:12:12 -0500

Hehe, I refuse to go to walmart so that battery is out of the question.   No
offence but the people who shop at Walmart are also McDonalds eaters too,
gah :)

> Strange. My 30-something dollar Wal-Mart battery is now beginning its
>third year in my bike. Still going strong.
>
>
>-Tom
>'96 KLR 650
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Battery Question
Date: 07 Mar 1999 21:30:17 EST

How long should the stock battery last?? I'm sure alot ot things can cause a
battery to have a "long" or "short" life, but is there any rule of thumb for
changing??

My 94 still has the original battery but has always been on a battery
maintainer since new.

Thanks,

Todd  94 KLR



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Battery Question
Date: 07 Mar 1999 21:41:02 -0500

Battery Maintenance

Don't put it on the floor if you take it out for long periods of time
Never let it get totally dead, dead batteries freeze at a warmer temp than
charged batteries
Charge it for a while every month during the winter
Keep the electrolite levels up
Keep its top clean
Smother each terminal with grease if it keeps building up corrosion
Keep the terminals tight or you'll burn off the contacts (I saw a cloud of
smoke come out of an excavator I was working on, the terminals boiled right
off)

    Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----


>How long should the stock battery last?? I'm sure alot ot things can cause
a
>battery to have a "long" or "short" life, but is there any rule of thumb
for
>changing??
>
>My 94 still has the original battery but has always been on a battery
>maintainer since new.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Todd  94 KLR
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Roscoe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) klx or klr
Date: 07 Mar 1999 20:43:50 -0600

Hi
I wanted a KLR but have found a nice used KLX. Whats the dif and can you get
a big tank for the KLX? If anybody on this list has comments Thanks in
advance.
Thanks
Roscoe
Roscoe's Music
164 W Van Buren
Eureka Springs Ar 72632
501.253.5876
www.roscoesmusic.addr.com






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (KTM 650) field operative reports
Date: 07 Mar 1999 22:09:04 -0500

No flame from me. I have no problem in what people choose as their vehicl=
e.
I get a good laugh, though, when most of the vehicles you see pulled back
onto the highway have 4 wheel drive, anti-lock brakes, and traction
control,and meanwhile the open differential, 2 wheel drive, standard brak=
ed
vehicles. like the ones I have, plod along getting to where they are goin=
g.
I might be able to drive as fast, but If I happen to lose it and leave th=
e
"traveled portion of the roadway", I won't be so far off I can't hike bac=
k
for help, hehehehehe.
NY Pete
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; Robert Morgan <[e-mail]>;
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>


>Well, at least here in New York, there are no "legal, public" places to
>ride. I've spent my entire Saturday researching places (it was snowing
>anyway). So far I've found one forest in PA, the Alleghany, way out by
Ohio,
>a few seasonal trails in MA, one "pay-to-play" off-road park in NJ.
>Everything else is "illegal". All this and NY requires ALL ATV's to
>registered and insured, even when solely used on ones own property, for =
the
>purposes of a "trail fund", yeah right, try ,"balance the budget fund" t=
his
>seems to be the problem all over the Northeast.
>Plus, DP's just don't generate the "STATUS" that a SUV generates, which =
in
>my opinion is a major reason why people buy the damn things anyhow.
>That's the way I see it, at least around here, anyway.
>What I should do is move to North Carolina or maybe Arizona, at least at
>these places, you can still do stuff, like have fun.
>New York Pete
>
>
>>
>>Anybody have any thoughts on why dual sport bikes haven't been as popul=
ar
>>as sport-utility vehicles have been in the last few years?  At least in
>>purpose of design,  DP bikes seem like the SUV's equivalent in the
>>motorcycling world.
>>
>>Carlos
>>Milwaukee, WI
>>
>I agree.  Buying SUV's has become a real status thing.  Talk about
>pretentiousness!  A MERCEDES SUV!  Please!  If that isn't a status thing=
,
>then I don't know what is.  Here in WA we USE our SUV's.  I got mine to =
get
>around off road for hunting, skiing, fishing, mountainbiking, hiking,
>camping, and all the other things I do that takes me off the pavement.  =
If
I
>didn't do at least one activity like that per month, then I would have j=
ust
>gotten a minivan with studded tires for the snow.
>
>Pretentiousness in motorcycles seems to be for BMW and HD owners, not tr=
ue
>Dual Sporters who actually ride there bikes off road, where they get mud=
dy,
>scratched and beat up.  If you fall into the catagory that is offended b=
y
my
>remarks, sorry to hear that you're just another typical American consume=
r.
>If you want to flame me back, feel free.  If its interesting enough, I
might
>just put down my copy of Thoreau long enough to reply.
>
>Jeff--"Simplify, simplify, simplify"
>
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 07 Mar 1999 22:15:00 -0500

Out of ignorance, may I ask a question? Who is Fred? I like "improving" and
maintaining my rides. Is Fred someone who can fill the need for parts?
Thanks, NY Pete
-----Original Message-----


>In a message dated 3/7/99 11:29:00 AM Central Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< I have ordered stuff from Fred in Moab and had it in my mailbox in San
>Diego
> the next afternoon.  I'm giving Fred the credit here not the Post Office
by
> the way.
> Morgan
>  >>
>
>I not only second this on after market stuff, but Fred has been able to get
me
>genuine Kawaski parts faster than my local dealer, and I'm all the way out
in
>MN, (that's almost the arctic, but not quite) so if you can't find it
locally
>or they have to order it, give Fred a call.
>
>MN Ron
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLX or KLR
Date: 07 Mar 1999 19:16:38 PST

Once again, the subject of KLR vis-a-vis KLX comes up.  Here's
the scoop, Roscoe, presuming you are asking about the KLX-C, not the
dirt-only R model

KLX has a newer engine design but about the same power. Better
brakes, better suspension, stronger frame, better footpegs (at least
for dirt riding) and the gear shift lever won't brake.

The KLR has some road advantages, e.g., a fairing, a more
comfortable seat, and a lot bigger gas tank.  Most valuable, I
think, it's much better supported with aftermarket items and this
great news group.

If you are planning to ride mostly on asphalt, the KLR's advantages
should weigh heavily.  If you plan to spend serious time riding in
gnarly dirt, the KLX's advantages will serve you well.  Not being a
very experienced dirt rider, I'm happy to have the greater dirt
competency of the KLX on my side.

I love my KLX and have addressed its two major shortcomings as an
adventure tourer with an Acerbis 4.75 gallon gas tank and some
custom work on the seat. Still short of the 6-gallon KLR gas tank
but I'm happy to deal with that to gain its other advantages.

Both great all-around motorcycles and a great bargain, to boot.

Marick




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fred Hink
Date: 07 Mar 1999 22:33:57 -0500

Fast, very fast. Checked out your page a bit just now. Very impressive.
Right off the bat I see you sell the Scottoiler. Is it worth the $$$?
Also like the Umbrella girl. Where do you go to put her in your shopping
cart? heh heh heh.
For my KLR 650, this looks like a candy store.
NY Pete




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 07 Mar 1999 22:55:45 -0500

True to your email address, you are the apotheosis.... of ignorant
stereotyping. Open your mouth and remove all doubt.....

Jake, avoiding McDonalds for a whole different set of reasons.

Stephen Rivett wrote:
>people who shop at Walmart are also McDonalds eaters too,



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mark <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 07 Mar 1999 23:04:19 -0500

Oh Boy!!! This oughta get good.....
So, how 'bout that ozone layer?
Mark


>True to your email address, you are the apotheosis.... of ignorant
>stereotyping. Open your mouth and remove all doubt.....
>
>Jake, avoiding McDonalds for a whole different set of reasons.
>
>Stephen Rivett wrote:
>>people who shop at Walmart are also McDonalds eaters too,






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR - Looking for places to ride?
Date: 07 Mar 1999 21:59:47 -0000

Check out the "Places to Ride" link.

http://www.motonetmag.com/motonet/index.html




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "bob kaub" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Eater?
Date: 07 Mar 1999 23:15:29 -0500

If I occasionally shop at Wal-Mart and eat at McDonald's does that make me a
bad person?
Please let me know the "approved" places to shop/eat.  Wouldn't wanna be
un-cool.
Thanks.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 07 Mar 1999 23:06:02 +0000

At 09:12 PM 3/7/99 -0500, Stephen Rivett wrote:
>Hehe, I refuse to go to walmart so that battery is out of the question.   No
>offence but the people who shop at Walmart are also McDonalds eaters too,
>gah :)


    Hey, when 'yo ass is in far western North Carolina on a Sunday and you
need a battery, you *go* to Wal-Mart.  :)



-Tom
only eats breakfast at McDonalds
'96 KLR 650








-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) motoport ultraII cordura jacket and pants.
Date: 07 Mar 1999 23:26:41 -0500

Does anybody have any experience with these?  I talked to the company
president at Daytona yesterday for about 20 minutes and he was very
convincing that this combo would make a perfect hot weather protective
gear set.  He claims it is much much cooler than Aerostich as his is not
rain proof and therefore breathes well.  Can anybody comment?  I'm going
to be riding year round in Florida with 95% humidity, 95 degrees for the
six  months of summer and need something to keep my skin from peeling
off in a crash that won't give me heatstroke.
Thanks, -Tim Bootle, Largo Florida






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Eater?
Date: 07 Mar 1999 23:27:12 EST

In a message dated 3/7/99 9:12:02 PM Mountain Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< If I occasionally shop at Wal-Mart and eat at McDonald's does that make me
a
 bad person?
 Please let me know the "approved" places to shop/eat. >>

Walmart and McDonald's have bailed my butt out of a few binds.  Last summer,
in Nevada, my Virago blew a fuse and had no headlight or instrument lights.
The philips head screw to my fuse panel got buggered up and I couldn't get the
screw out. It was late Sunday, getting dark and I needed to keep rolling.  I
scooted to a Walmart, they had a screw extractor and metric screws.  They
*lent* me the use of their cordless drill and bits to remove the head and
extract the screw.  I know plenty of bike shops where they won't lend you a
screw driver much less let you walk out the door with with a $60.00 Makita.

I don't know how many cups of lousy McDonalds coffee have kept me going on
long rides in the cold.

Gino




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Leslie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: suv
Date: 08 Mar 1999 23:36:47 -0500

I agree.  Buying SUV's has become a real status thing.  Talk about
pretentiousness!  A MERCEDES SUV!  Please!  If that isn't a status thing,
then I don't know what is.
Jeff--"Simplify, simplify, simplify"

I agree totally, the license plate on my 89 KLR is   "  SUV  Y "...... I
wanted :My SUV", but some soccer mom in her 2 ton SUV already had it....I
hope all of the people in this area that use there 4 wheel drives to commute
to work, get the point.  Ofcourse that is if I wash the mud off the bike so
they can see the plate......enjoy Les




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 07 Mar 1999 23:40:17 -0500

I'm gonna let it pass.  Although I can't comprehend somebody sticking up for
McDonalds.  New topic, Canada has it's positive points.


>Oh Boy!!! This oughta get good.....
>So, how 'bout that ozone layer?
>Mark
>
>
>>True to your email address, you are the apotheosis.... of ignorant
>>stereotyping. Open your mouth and remove all doubt.....
>>
>>Jake, avoiding McDonalds for a whole different set of reasons.
>>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) motoport ultraII cordura jacket and pants.
Date: 07 Mar 1999 20:32:50 -0800

Motoport is right over the hill from where I work.  I don't know anything
about the jackets they sell but the tall blonde that works there is
absolutely gorgeous.
Morgan
(oops, must have been that "motorhead testosterone thing)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR - Looking for places to ride?
Date: 07 Mar 1999 23:39:08 -0500

I have found a LOT of neat places to ride around me for $170.  $150 for
a GPS to keep me from getting lost! :-)   $20 for a 90 page atlas of my
state (Florida) with GPS coordinates listed.  The map shows detail down
to 1/8 mile.  I specifically choose routes that are on the "dotted"
roads which the legend shows as unimproved roads.  Florida has seemingly
millions of miles of dirt (read sand) roads.  I did this on the way home
from bike week in daytona yesterday and it took me five hours instead of
the 2.5 that the interstate would have but it was so much fun!  Before I
bought the atlas I had no idea there were so many interesting places to
ride around me.  -Tim Bootle, Largo Florida

Eric Jasniewicz wrote:

> Check out the "Places to Ride" link.
>
> http://www.motonetmag.com/motonet/index.html




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) McDonald's, Wal-Mart, and...
Date: 07 Mar 1999 22:15:52

Right arm!  Outta state!  Get down on the faceless capitalist pig corporate
plunderers who sell us poisoned food and goods made by slave labor in
offshore sweatshops!

BTW, can anybody tell me what they are running instead of gasoline in their
KLRs?  I mean we can't just go on supporting the oil companies, can we?
Huh?  Can we?

(Gino, can you get your bike to run on McDonald's coffee?  It always tasted
a bit like JP-5 to me).

Guy (tongue in cheek, eyes rolled heavenward, asking the BIG GUY/GAL IN THE
SKY why s/he had to have such a brilliant sense of the absurd when it came
to human beings)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Jackets
Date: 07 Mar 1999 21:27:22 -0800

Good reviews and feedback on rider jackets (aerostich, BMW, Motoport, Tour
Master, etc) at this site:
http://eagle.onr.com/ibmwr/prodreview/jacket.html --- very helpful.

-rik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (KTM 650) field operative reports
Date: 08 Mar 1999 05:49:13 EST

In a message dated 3/7/99 11:04:42 PM !!!First Boot!!!, [e-mail]
writes:

<< hat I should do is move to North Carolina or maybe Arizona, at least at
 these places, you can still do stuff, like have fun.
 N >>
Or Texas have plenty of room to roam, if you tread lightly and don't have to
loud of a pipe(scares the longhorns).



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Eater?
Date: 08 Mar 1999 03:12:52 -0800



>If I occasionally shop at Wal-Mart and eat at McDonald's does that make me
a
>bad person?
>Please let me know the "approved" places to shop/eat.  Wouldn't wanna be
>un-cool.
>Thanks.
>
Well, first off, consider that Wal-Mart targets small towns and communities
that are supplied by small mom & pop shops.  These shops can't compete and
go out of business, and then everyone if FORCED to shop at Wal-mart, because
there is no place else.  I've seen it happen.  When the Wall claims to be
small town friendly, they weren't kidding, its their favorite marketplace.

Second, I personally love McDonalds, but then the McD's here in E.
Washington are supplied with local, free-ranged beef, none of that lets burn
down the Amazon rainforrest so we can raise some cows on grass that will
only grow for two seasons so we have to burn down more trees beef.  There's
a difference.

"Selling E-coli burgers, couldn't do no harm."  L.I.P. by The Presidents of
the United States of America

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR - Looking for places to ride?
Date: 08 Mar 1999 03:19:31 -0800



>I have found a LOT of neat places to ride around me for $170.  $150 for
>a GPS to keep me from getting lost! :-)   $20 for a 90 page atlas of my
>state (Florida) with GPS coordinates listed.  The map shows detail down
>to 1/8 mile.  I specifically choose routes that are on the "dotted"
>roads which the legend shows as unimproved roads.  Florida has seemingly
>millions of miles of dirt (read sand) roads.  I did this on the way home
>from bike week in daytona yesterday and it took me five hours instead of
>the 2.5 that the interstate would have but it was so much fun!  Before I
>bought the atlas I had no idea there were so many interesting places to
>ride around me.  -Tim Bootle, Largo Florida
>
Ever ride around Eglin Air Force Base or Choctaw Naval Air Station?  I've
chewed up a lot of ground around there on my LPC's (Leather Personnel
Carriers).  I'm from the north, but the coldest night I've EVER spent was in
Florida in the swamp down there.  PLEASE tell me that the rest of the state
is different, or my kid will never get to go to Disney World.

Jef




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: NKLR Re: (klr650) McDonald's, Wal-Mart, and...
Date: 08 Mar 1999 03:23:35 -0800




>Right arm!  Outta state!  Get down on the faceless capitalist pig corporate
>plunderers who sell us poisoned food and goods made by slave labor in
>offshore sweatshops!
>
>BTW, can anybody tell me what they are running instead of gasoline in their
>KLRs?  I mean we can't just go on supporting the oil companies, can we?
>Huh?  Can we?
>
>(Gino, can you get your bike to run on McDonald's coffee?  It always tasted
>a bit like JP-5 to me).
>
>Guy (tongue in cheek, eyes rolled heavenward, asking the BIG GUY/GAL IN THE
>SKY why s/he had to have such a brilliant sense of the absurd when it came
>to human beings)
>
I would like to figure out how to jet my bike for ethanol, for when the gas
dries up.  Something that I can make in my still out back.  Or maybe
methane. --joke.

BTW, I still boycott Exxon to this day.  Go to Alaska and you'll understand.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Eater?
Date: 08 Mar 1999 07:30:16 -0500

WOW, check this out, people telling other people where to shop and eat. This
must be the biggest problem with these bikes, hoohaa.
I shop in Walmart and eat at McDonalds, sometimes there's a McD's *IN A*
Walmart. Imagine that, I can kill *3* birds with one stone, buy inexpensive
batteries (quite frankly, they do last the longest, dollar for dollar), then
I can get a bite to eat AND piss-off a coupla' people at the same time.
Pretty cooool....
I'm hungry and I need some batts, C'ya'
NY Pete
-----Original Message-----


>If I occasionally shop at Wal-Mart and eat at McDonald's does that make me
a
>bad person?
>Please let me know the "approved" places to shop/eat.  Wouldn't wanna be
>un-cool.
>Thanks.
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 08 Mar 1999 07:34:05 -0500

When you need ANYTHING on a Sunday, even in NY, you go to Walmart.
I was on my way to Florida from NY, with my 8 year old son on our Goldwing,
and at 6:30 on a Saturday, the fuel filter plugged up, guess who was open
and had a suitable replacement?
NY Pete
-----Original Message-----


>At 09:12 PM 3/7/99 -0500, Stephen Rivett wrote:
>>Hehe, I refuse to go to walmart so that battery is out of the question.
No
>>offence but the people who shop at Walmart are also McDonalds eaters too,
>>gah :)
>
>
> Hey, when 'yo ass is in far western North Carolina on a Sunday and you
>need a battery, you *go* to Wal-Mart.  :)
>
>
>
>-Tom
>only eats breakfast at McDonalds
>'96 KLR 650
>
>
>
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) [NKLR] Bike week demo rides survivor
Date: 08 Mar 1999 07:59:28 -0500

I'm also thinking of selling my CBR in favor of a SV650. Tired to death of
spending weekends fixing cheap body panels that crack and scuff from falling
over in the garage. At 364lbs, its not as heavy as that pig of a CBR either.
I doubt it could replace my KLX though :)


-----Original Message-----
>
><< Suzuki SV650 (six speed fun-I want this engine in my KLR.
>
>This could very well be my next bike.  I have test road it twice, and love
the
>motor.  I wixh I could jam it into the KLR

Sounds like the bike you fellows want is the Cagiva E-650 Elefant.
It had a Ducati Pantah 650cc, twin cylinder, with 2 desmo valves
per cylinder, engine.  The bike was more dirt oriented than later
Ducati E-900 Elefants.  Alas, it was only imported during 1987
(and maybe 1988).  This bike, while neat sounding and fun to ride
on the street, is a good deal heavier than the KLR 650.

Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Fork Air Pressure?
Date: 08 Mar 1999 08:14:34 -0500

I wouldnt add too much air to the forks. The manuals in most recommend
either atmospheric pressure or a max of 6 or 7 psi. Remember too that air
will expand when the forks heat up and add more pressure and make the forks
stiffer. Better to put some preload spacers on top of the fork springs.



Anybody know if 10-psi cold will damage the seals, or promote early
demise?

Maybe I should measure the fork pressure after a good long washboard...





==
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jason Ehler <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 08 Mar 1999 08:13:31 -0500

unsubscribe KLR650
end



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jason Ehler <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 08 Mar 1999 08:43:07 -0500

unsubscribe klr650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jason Ehler <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 08 Mar 1999 09:27:57 -0500

unsubscribe klr650-digest



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) RE: NKRL SUV
Date: 08 Mar 1999 09:50:16 -0500


--openmail-part-195761da-00000001
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name="BDY.TXT"
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="BDY.TXT"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Jeff wrote:>>>>>
I agree.  Buying SUV's has become a real status thing.  Talk about
pretentiousness!  A MERCEDES SUV!  Please!  If that isn't a status thing,
then I don't know what is.
<<<<<<

I am no BMW basher (I think the GS80 is one of the best bikes made), but the
BMW GS1000 is the motorcycle equivalent of the MERCEDES SUV (and many other
SUVs); all hat and no cowboy.

Not looking for flames,
Anonymous Pat

--openmail-part-195761da-00000001--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR (klr650) Low battery
Date: 08 Mar 1999 07:05:45 -0800



>When you need ANYTHING on a Sunday, even in NY, you go to Walmart.
>I was on my way to Florida from NY, with my 8 year old son on our Goldwing,
>and at 6:30 on a Saturday, the fuel filter plugged up, guess who was open
>and had a suitable replacement?
>NY Pete

We have Al's Auto supply and Shuck's out here, both open on Sundays.  Hey,
if you're stuck, then obviously you go to the store that's open/available.
But I plan all of my consumer purchases that aren't emergent, and I make a
personal choice to NEVER buy at Wal-mart, and support the local businesses
unstead.  (Even though I will inherent a large amount of stock in Wal-mart
due to wife's mother's stock options for her last 20 years working at Sam's
Club.)

I personally think that as Americans, we really need to be more responsible
with how we spend our dollars.  The only thing American that I won't buy (as
if there are a large amount of consumer products made in USA anymore!) are
motorcycles and cars.  But that's only because there are very few decent
autos out there made in USA, IMHO.  I prefer Jap and Euro engineering and
finish to American, and I have owned 14 different cars in the last 12 years.
Of those, only three were American, two Jeeps and one Firebird.

What I object to are the unfair trading practices of Japan in regards to the
trade deficit, and the American / Euro garment fashion industry;
brainwashing billions of people that they must be slaves to mindless fashion
trends, and using near slave labor to make their products, which they sell
at huge profits.  (Can you say Nike?)  The one that gets me the most are the
sweat shops on Saipan, a US protectorate.  The manufacturers get away with
putting "Made in USA" tags on these clothes, and most of their labor force
comes from China.

Well, obviously I'm ranting off on a tangent again, and I have a test to
study for.

Jeff

Jeff
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR650-List <[e-mail]>
>Date: Sunday, March 07, 1999 11:13 PM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
>
>
>>At 09:12 PM 3/7/99 -0500, Stephen Rivett wrote:
>>>Hehe, I refuse to go to walmart so that battery is out of the question.
>No
>>>offence but the people who shop at Walmart are also McDonalds eaters too,
>>>gah :)
>>
>>
>> Hey, when 'yo ass is in far western North Carolina on a Sunday and you
>>need a battery, you *go* to Wal-Mart.  :)
>>
>>
>>
>>-Tom
>>only eats breakfast at McDonalds
>>'96 KLR 650
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fred Hink
Date: 08 Mar 1999 08:05:38 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Fast, very fast. Checked out your page a bit just now. Very impressive.

Since I have injured my leg and am not out riding, I have had more time to
work on my web page.  I have made lots of changes.  JavaScript is fun!

>Right off the bat I see you sell the Scottoiler. Is it worth the $$$?

It is supposed to make your chain last much longer and it will do away with
the hassle of lubing and the mess.  You can read all about it at:
http://www.actionstation.com/oiler.html  I have them in stock.

>Also like the Umbrella girl.

There is a new one each Sunday.

>Where do you go to put her in your shopping cart? heh heh heh.

Aaaa,  Walmart?

>For my KLR 650, this looks like a candy store.

Go ahead and pig-out Pete.

Fred


>NY Pete
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 08 Mar 1999 08:11:54 -0700


-----Original Message-----
KLR650 List <[e-mail]>


What ever happened to the good Docter Birol?
>  I have sold parts to our Turkish
> Doctor Say

Good question!

Hey Doc!!  You still out there?

Kurt can tell us when he gets back from the "valley of the dead".

Fred






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) More RIP KLR
Date: 08 Mar 1999 07:41:19 -0800



>I don't think what was asked was inappropriate or out-of-line.  I can
>understand how the question would be misconstrued though.
>
>Whenever you are in an accident lets all hope we walk away a little wiser
>regardless of the situation.  I think that was what he was asking.  We can
>all learn more and while I do consider the fact that I slowed too fast a
>mistake.  I personally believe the other guy was definitely in the wrong.
>
>Afterwards, I did lose my temper (partially from the accident and partially
>from his extremely poor attitude).  When I said I hit the guy, I was being
>quite literal (I still have a mean left hook).  I went way too far and
>should have walked away from the imbecile.  I have no plans on suing him
>since accidents happen and he is paying for medical, motorcycle, and
>equipment.
>
>IMHO, C.
>


Sorry to hear about your wreck and hope you heal up fast, since spring and
summer riding is coming up.

You might want to reconsider not suing him for a couple of reasons.  First
and foremost, what if you don't heal up properly?  My wife was rear ended in
our car 3 years ago, and she still has back problems, and likely always
will.  What's that worth to you for having a lifetime of pain for a
preventable accident?  Say you're going to physical therapy for over a year.
At some point, the insurance company won't want to pay anymore, and will
want to settle.  My next point is that you owe it to all of us other riders.
One more lawsuit for money will get the insurance company's attention, and
insurance companies have strong lobbies.  If the insurance company gets
tired of extraordinary medical expenses and large settlements, then maybe
they will push legislation for increased driver training, and thereby
prevent car vs. bike accidents in the future.  Its a dream, but its still
within the realm of reality.

Here in WA, riders aren't required to even have insurance, since legal
precedence shows that the courts always side with the rider when it comes to
accidents, even when the rider was at fault.  I carried liability and
medical insurance last year anyway, but then I realized that it was
pointless, since it wasn't required, and the max medical coverage that my
company would give was $5000, for rider and passenger.  I decided that money
would be better spent on a life insurance policy for my family.

Hey, if the issue ever comes up that you struck the driver, just say that
you were suffering from post traumatic stress.  And just remember to admit
nothing, deny everything, and make counter accusations.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
Date: 08 Mar 1999 08:31:58 -0700

Got a 435 do not need a tail wind. The weather in Moab depends upon the time
of day.
Fred---Do you think the Dug-Out Ranch road to ---- Basin will be open by
April 25 or will have to go over & back via elephant. Why don't you join us?
Happy Trails
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 10:51 AM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
>
>
>>In a message dated 3/5/99 2:20:29 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>>[e-mail] writes:
>>
>><<  I'm trying
>> to figure out just what to bring (gotta pack light - traveling by KLR) >>
>>
>>So do I.  Travelling by DR350 and praying for a tail wind.
>>
>>Gino
>>
>>
>
>Hey Gino,
>
>I have a Trail 90 you can use if you really want to travel light.  Besides
>the tailwind you'll need some good downhills too.
>
>Fred
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Cameron Cole <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) More RIP KLR
Date: 08 Mar 1999 10:52:21 -0500

We certainly have two different positions on this issue.  The driver didn't
mean to hit me.  He had no malice towards me.  It was a mistake and they are
made every single day.  I asked the driver later what he thought of the
accident.  He apologized and said he was sorry for yelling at me.  He stated
he was shaken up and scared when he saw me fly over the car.  I certainly
believe him since I would be in the same situation.  He simply over-reacted
causing me to over-react.

Most people are good people, but they make mistakes.  He learned not to
follow motorcyclist too closely and I learned not to slow too fast when cars
are behind me.  His insurance company is flipping the bill for everything no
questions asked (I know so I won't sue).  Sure I am in pain, but no more so
than when I high sided that curve a few months back.  I'll heal... the
shoulder will be stiff... and all will be well.

Besides, the last thing I want to do is make another lawyer more money.

C.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff & Lisa Walker [mailto:[e-mail]]
> Sent: Monday, March 08, 1999 10:41 AM
> To: Cameron Cole; [e-mail]
> Subject: Re: (klr650) More RIP KLR
>
>
>
>
> >I don't think what was asked was inappropriate or out-of-line.  I can
> >understand how the question would be misconstrued though.
> >
> >Whenever you are in an accident lets all hope we walk away a
> little wiser
> >regardless of the situation.  I think that was what he was
> asking.  We can
> >all learn more and while I do consider the fact that I
> slowed too fast a
> >mistake.  I personally believe the other guy was definitely
> in the wrong.
> >
> >Afterwards, I did lose my temper (partially from the
> accident and partially
> >from his extremely poor attitude).  When I said I hit the
> guy, I was being
> >quite literal (I still have a mean left hook).  I went way
> too far and
> >should have walked away from the imbecile.  I have no plans
> on suing him
> >since accidents happen and he is paying for medical, motorcycle, and
> >equipment.
> >
> >IMHO, C.
> >
>
>
> Sorry to hear about your wreck and hope you heal up fast,
> since spring and
> summer riding is coming up.
>
> You might want to reconsider not suing him for a couple of
> reasons.  First
> and foremost, what if you don't heal up properly?  My wife
> was rear ended in
> our car 3 years ago, and she still has back problems, and
> likely always
> will.  What's that worth to you for having a lifetime of pain for a
> preventable accident?  Say you're going to physical therapy
> for over a year.
> At some point, the insurance company won't want to pay
> anymore, and will
> want to settle.  My next point is that you owe it to all of
> us other riders.
> One more lawsuit for money will get the insurance company's
> attention, and
> insurance companies have strong lobbies.  If the insurance
> company gets
> tired of extraordinary medical expenses and large
> settlements, then maybe
> they will push legislation for increased driver training, and thereby
> prevent car vs. bike accidents in the future.  Its a dream,
> but its still
> within the realm of reality.
>
> Here in WA, riders aren't required to even have insurance, since legal
> precedence shows that the courts always side with the rider
> when it comes to
> accidents, even when the rider was at fault.  I carried liability and
> medical insurance last year anyway, but then I realized that it was
> pointless, since it wasn't required, and the max medical
> coverage that my
> company would give was $5000, for rider and passenger.  I
> decided that money
> would be better spent on a life insurance policy for my family.
>
> Hey, if the issue ever comes up that you struck the driver,
> just say that
> you were suffering from post traumatic stress.  And just
> remember to admit
> nothing, deny everything, and make counter accusations.
>
> Jeff
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
Date: 08 Mar 1999 09:07:27 -0700


-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>Got a 435 do not need a tail wind. The weather in Moab depends upon the
time
>of day.
>Fred---Do you think the Dug-Out Ranch road to ---- Basin will be open by
>April 25 or will have to go over & back via elephant. Why don't you join
us?

Hi Tim,

We have had less than average snowfall here and there is even less down
south of Moab.  I would imagine that the snow would be gone there by then.
Which "Basin" are you asking about?  The road from Dugout to Beef Basin or
Dugout to Lockhart Basin?  If you go over to Beef Basin then you will have
to go up and over Elephant Hill.  The Beef Basin to Lockhart Basin to Moab
would be a very long day.  Elephant Hill and Lockhart would be quite a bit
shorter and just as nice, still a long day.  If you do the loop in the
"Needles" I would highly recommend doing the Joint Trail (hiking) while you
are out there.  You probably already know this but you will need a street
legal bike and a park pass to do Elephant Hill.

Count me in, this sounds fun.  Who is going?

Fred







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) (no subject)
Date: 08 Mar 1999 11:10:30 EST

unsubscribeklr650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Tengai input needed
Date: 08 Mar 1999 08:32:18 -0800

Hi all, I've been going through the archives about the Tengai.  After about
100 postings (and around 1:30 am) I had to pack it in... had to get up early
to get the kids ready and off to school you know.

Well, a lot of the threads had to do with the better front brake and
footpegs.  It also seemed like this was a newer discussion topic, with new
owners trying to ferret each other out.

My reason for all this:  I may be able to get a hold of a 1990 KLR650
Tengai.  The add reads as follows - 12,000 kms (around 8,000 miles), new
Metzler Sahara tires, new Supertrapp (I don't know which model), new
battery, like new, $4,000 (which would be around $2,750 US).

1.  Is this a fair price?
2. What can ANYONE tell me about the Tengai.?  Compare it to let's say...
oh, the standard KLR.  Weight comparison?  Handling? Dimensions?

I read the front travel is less.  Is it a lot less?  Can this be rectified?
Would a person want to rectify this?  I could tell that a few people were
wanting to convert their KLR's with Tengai front ends... I guess that this
means that the Tengai front end is O.K.?

If I go looking at this bike is there anything specific I should watch out
for?

I like the looks of it (from pictures I was able to find).  It's kind of got
that Translap/F650 Euro flavor.

Any help here would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks all.

Arne Larsen




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKRL] Hydraulic Valves
Date: 09 Mar 1999 03:40:53 +1000

[e-mail] wrote:

[...]
> Can anyone point me to a web site or explain to me why Hydraulic valves never
> need adjusting and how they 'self' adjust?

I don't know of any sites, but a look into some old Chev or Ford
shop manual will give you an idea of how they work.
Old pressure keeps the valve clearance at 0.

> Also, why don't all bike have Hydraulic valves since they are so wonderful?

They are also more complicated and take up some more room in the
head. The oil damping built in to the tappets leads to some imprecision
in the valve timing.
Oil galleries in the head become more important than usual.

> And please don't just tell me they cost more and that's why.  The NightHawk 750
> was a cheap bike with Hydraulic  valves.  There must be a performance reason
> also.

Ah, the RC17 motor. Nice design, shame about the rest of the Nighthawk.
I have a CBX750F which runs a sportier version of that motor.
The hydraulic tappets in these are better described as "hydraulic
lash adjusters".
The RC17 tappets don't follow the profile of the cam like in old
pushrod cars.
For those with some knowledge of the OHC system in the old L series
Datsun/Nissan motors, the Honda hydraulic tappets are in the location
where Datsun put their manual adjusters.
The cam operates on, above and near one end of a horizontal lever,
the lash pad.
Under one end of the lash pad is the valve stem. Under the other
is the adjuster.
This system is not a lot taller than a conventional bucket-and shim
OHC arrangement.

I think that Honda went hydraulic to cushion some of the rapid lift
that the cams profiles have.
The cam timing in the RC17 is quite modest, but it gets to full lift
fairly quick and stays there a long time.
Hydraulics also tend to be quieter because of the zero clearance they
run at (when they are working properly).
Hydraulic tappets can also act as rev limiters. Under high rev stress,
they can leak down oil and reduce lift, or "pump up" and not quite
allow the valves to close.

Generally, RC17 hydraulic tappets are pretty reliable. My bike has
over 90,000km on it, and while the tappets are ticking a bit now,
it's nothing really bad yet.
That's pretty good for something that was a hot sports bike 15 years
ago on its release.
The best part is that until the camchain wears out, no service dept
knucklehead need lift the camcover and stuff up your clearances
because his girlfriend dumped him or something.

Some problems can arise when the engine oil pressure is not to spec,
or wear in the tappets is out of spec.

Replacing noisy RC17 tappets is an expensive business at over $100
aussie _each_, and you might want all 16 replaced in a RC17 head.
You could buy a complete but ratty RC17 for that much.

Mister_T

Never seen a CBX750F (RC17) before? Check out:
http://replicant.apana.org.au/~viking/bikes/TeamRC17/index.html




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Battery Question
Date: 09 Mar 1999 02:26:23 +1000

[e-mail] wrote:

> How long should the stock battery last?? I'm sure alot ot things can cause a
> battery to have a "long" or "short" life, but is there any rule of thumb for
> changing??

My original 600-B1 battery lasted 7 years. The replacement only lasted
4 years due to lack of use.

Rule of thumb for charging is 10% of the Ah rating of the battery.
For the 14Ah battery in the B1, 1.4A is ok.
Many small chargers I've seen do 1A, so that is fine.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse Block Wire Gauge
Date: 09 Mar 1999 02:44:48 +1000

Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:

[...]
> You yourself gave the evidence that your system is flowing more amps through
> it, you said that your lights burn brighter.  If the voltage stays the same,

But does it? If the circuit has less resistance, won't you have more
volts available at the globe for the same current?
Of course, the resistance of the globe might not be linear with temp
(brightness) anyway, so that complicates things a bit.
I would have thought the idea of heavier wire was to reduce voltage
drop rather than increase current capacity.

> then the only thing that can cause this is a change in current, which means
> less resistance, and more amps.  That is my only point, and it is
> irrefutable.  I already said that I was guessing that the charging system
> was insuffecient, based on how much my lights dim at idle.

Just about any bike or car will have insufficient charging at idle
with lights on.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tengai input needed
Date: 08 Mar 1999 11:47:03 -0500

Arne Wrote:
>My reason for all this:  I may be able to get a hold of a 1990 KLR650
>Tengai.  The add reads as follows - 12,000 kms (around 8,000 miles), new
>Metzler Sahara tires, new Supertrapp (I don't know which model), new
>battery, like new, $4,000 (which would be around $2,750 US).
>
>1.  Is this a fair price?

No, but $2,000 USD would be. I paid $1,200 USD for my B2 w/ 7K miles when I
bought it over a year and a half ago.

>2. What can ANYONE tell me about the Tengai.?  Compare it to let's say...
>oh, the standard KLR.  Weight comparison?  Handling? Dimensions?

Weighs about the same. A little less squirly than my A2, same chassis, same
engine, etc. The Tengai was mainly just a trim package that was $400 than
the standard KLR.

>I read the front travel is less.  Is it a lot less?  Can this be rectified?
>Would a person want to rectify this?

It's about 1" lower than the standard KLR. I put Progressive springs in and
it seems higher now (less sag). Much better ride now.

>I could tell that a few people were
>wanting to convert their KLR's with Tengai front ends... I guess that this
>means that the Tengai front end is O.K.?

It's awesome. Has 20mm larger rotor and a two piston caliper. Plus it has
mounting tabs for the lower front fender and the decorative but useless
"disc and caliper protector".

>
>If I go looking at this bike is there anything specific I should watch out
>for?

Nothing that you wouldn't look for when buying a standard KLR.


>
>I like the looks of it (from pictures I was able to find).  It's kind of got
>that Translap/F650 Euro flavor.

I love its looks. That's why I bought a standard KLR so I can preserve the
Tengai.
It sure looks like less of a pig than the bloated, overweight TransAlp. (I
do like the TransAlp BTW, but I'd never take it to the places my Tengai has
seen)

Mark
B2 "The Poser" (The bike formerly known as the woods warrior)
A2 "The Woods Warrior"





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jack A. Morton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Unsubscribe
Date: 08 Mar 1999 09:21:56 -0800

Unsubscribe




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Winslow <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) New (used) KLR!
Date: 08 Mar 1999 13:12:52 -0500 (EST)

Well, after spending much time thinking about getting a KLR, one showed up
in Saturday's classifieds. I checked it out, rode it, and bought it. It's
a '94 with 14,000 miles on it. Very clean. It had obviously not been
ridden too much in the dirt. I can't wait to get it all legal and take it
home for good.

It's all stock, except for the tires perhaps. It has a brand new set of
Metzler Enduros on it. Anybody have experience with these tires?

What happened to those '94's? Did they get hit with the ugly stick, or
what? No offence to those that love those colors. I'm sure I'll grow
to love it, too. That color scheme of aqua, light purple and white is
something else, though. The colors obviously didn't upset me too much. I
didn't hesitate buying it. At least I'll be visible.

Just wanted to share my good news.

Sincerely,
Eric (dual-purposing again) Winslow
'94 KLR650
'93 Suzuki GS500E




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Richard Ohnstad <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Tengai input needed
Date: 08 Mar 1999 11:44:14 -0700

Is it possible to replace the standard front rotor and caliper on the =
KLR650 with the rotor and calipers from the Tengai.  If so, where would =
you get these parts from (also what are the part numbers)?

----------
Sent:     Monday, March 08, 1999 9:47 AM

Arne Wrote:
>My reason for all this:  I may be able to get a hold of a 1990 KLR650
>Tengai.  The add reads as follows - 12,000 kms (around 8,000 miles), =
new
>Metzler Sahara tires, new Supertrapp (I don't know which model), new
>battery, like new, $4,000 (which would be around $2,750 US).
>
>1.  Is this a fair price?

No, but $2,000 USD would be. I paid $1,200 USD for my B2 w/ 7K miles =
when I
bought it over a year and a half ago.

>2. What can ANYONE tell me about the Tengai.?  Compare it to let's =
say...
>oh, the standard KLR.  Weight comparison?  Handling? Dimensions?

Weighs about the same. A little less squirly than my A2, same chassis, =
same
engine, etc. The Tengai was mainly just a trim package that was $400 =
than
the standard KLR.

>I read the front travel is less.  Is it a lot less?  Can this be =
rectified?
>Would a person want to rectify this?

It's about 1" lower than the standard KLR. I put Progressive springs in =
and
it seems higher now (less sag). Much better ride now.

>I could tell that a few people were
>wanting to convert their KLR's with Tengai front ends... I guess that =
this
>means that the Tengai front end is O.K.?

It's awesome. Has 20mm larger rotor and a two piston caliper. Plus it =
has
mounting tabs for the lower front fender and the decorative but useless
"disc and caliper protector".

>
>If I go looking at this bike is there anything specific I should watch =
out
>for?

Nothing that you wouldn't look for when buying a standard KLR.


>
>I like the looks of it (from pictures I was able to find).  It's kind =
of got
>that Translap/F650 Euro flavor.

I love its looks. That's why I bought a standard KLR so I can preserve =
the
Tengai.
It sure looks like less of a pig than the bloated, overweight TransAlp. =
(I
do like the TransAlp BTW, but I'd never take it to the places my Tengai =
has
seen)

Mark
B2 "The Poser" (The bike formerly known as the woods warrior)
A2 "The Woods Warrior"









-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) More RIP KLR
Date: 08 Mar 1999 11:11:57 -0800

Well Spoken...  BRAVO.

As long as you're going to be O.K., why line lawyers pockets and give
insurance companies even more reason to raise the rates even higher.  I'm
not saying that suing is always inappropriate, at times it is necessary, but
I'm sure our insurance rates wouldn't be as high as they are today were it
not for the millions paid out to false and exaggerated claims.

Maybe Jeff was being sarcastic, but as for denying everything and making
counter accusations???  Speak the TRUTH.

Arne


-----Original Message-----
Cc: '[e-mail]' <[e-mail]>


>We certainly have two different positions on this issue.  The driver didn't
>mean to hit me.  He had no malice towards me.  It was a mistake and they
are
>made every single day.  I asked the driver later what he thought of the
>accident.  He apologized and said he was sorry for yelling at me.  He
stated
>he was shaken up and scared when he saw me fly over the car.  I certainly
>believe him since I would be in the same situation.  He simply over-reacted
>causing me to over-react.
>
>Most people are good people, but they make mistakes.  He learned not to
>follow motorcyclist too closely and I learned not to slow too fast when
cars
>are behind me.  His insurance company is flipping the bill for everything
no
>questions asked (I know so I won't sue).  Sure I am in pain, but no more so
>than when I high sided that curve a few months back.  I'll heal... the
>shoulder will be stiff... and all will be well.
>
>Besides, the last thing I want to do is make another lawyer more money.
>
>C.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jeff & Lisa Walker [mailto:[e-mail]]
>> Sent: Monday, March 08, 1999 10:41 AM
>> To: Cameron Cole; [e-mail]
>> Subject: Re: (klr650) More RIP KLR
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >I don't think what was asked was inappropriate or out-of-line.  I can
>> >understand how the question would be misconstrued though.
>> >
>> >Whenever you are in an accident lets all hope we walk away a
>> little wiser
>> >regardless of the situation.  I think that was what he was
>> asking.  We can
>> >all learn more and while I do consider the fact that I
>> slowed too fast a
>> >mistake.  I personally believe the other guy was definitely
>> in the wrong.
>> >
>> >Afterwards, I did lose my temper (partially from the
>> accident and partially
>> >from his extremely poor attitude).  When I said I hit the
>> guy, I was being
>> >quite literal (I still have a mean left hook).  I went way
>> too far and
>> >should have walked away from the imbecile.  I have no plans
>> on suing him
>> >since accidents happen and he is paying for medical, motorcycle, and
>> >equipment.
>> >
>> >IMHO, C.
>> >
>>
>>
>> Sorry to hear about your wreck and hope you heal up fast,
>> since spring and
>> summer riding is coming up.
>>
>> You might want to reconsider not suing him for a couple of
>> reasons.  First
>> and foremost, what if you don't heal up properly?  My wife
>> was rear ended in
>> our car 3 years ago, and she still has back problems, and
>> likely always
>> will.  What's that worth to you for having a lifetime of pain for a
>> preventable accident?  Say you're going to physical therapy
>> for over a year.
>> At some point, the insurance company won't want to pay
>> anymore, and will
>> want to settle.  My next point is that you owe it to all of
>> us other riders.
>> One more lawsuit for money will get the insurance company's
>> attention, and
>> insurance companies have strong lobbies.  If the insurance
>> company gets
>> tired of extraordinary medical expenses and large
>> settlements, then maybe
>> they will push legislation for increased driver training, and thereby
>> prevent car vs. bike accidents in the future.  Its a dream,
>> but its still
>> within the realm of reality.
>>
>> Here in WA, riders aren't required to even have insurance, since legal
>> precedence shows that the courts always side with the rider
>> when it comes to
>> accidents, even when the rider was at fault.  I carried liability and
>> medical insurance last year anyway, but then I realized that it was
>> pointless, since it wasn't required, and the max medical
>> coverage that my
>> company would give was $5000, for rider and passenger.  I
>> decided that money
>> would be better spent on a life insurance policy for my family.
>>
>> Hey, if the issue ever comes up that you struck the driver,
>> just say that
>> you were suffering from post traumatic stress.  And just
>> remember to admit
>> nothing, deny everything, and make counter accusations.
>>
>> Jeff
>>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) New (used) KLR!
Date: 08 Mar 1999 14:06:16 EST

> What happened to those '94's? Did they get hit with the ugly stick, or
> what?

After a while the ugliness will give you great peace of mind.  You never
have to worry about someone wanting to steal it.  I've forgotten my key
in the ignition more than once.

I rode in a 24 hour rally last year and I was so flustered at the start
I lost my key twice in the first 20 minutes.  Determined not to lose it
again, I rode the rest of the rally without removing it from the ignition
even during stops for rest, food, gas, and bonus point hunting.

Another time I was riding home with a dead battery.  It took so long
to get the thing started I was very reluctant to turn it off.  I made
several stops in the 400 miles it took to get home, leaving my bike
with the key in the ignition AND the engine running... not a problem.

Try that with a VFR.

Pete Dean



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
Date: 08 Mar 1999 12:07:15 -0700

Hi
Forgot about the park pass. How much? Should be about 10 of us. I guess my
concern on the snowpack was that we are from 170-200 percent of normal
around here.
I will enclose the agenda
Moab tentative trip plan
Wednesday 4-21 travel to Goblin Valley State Park. Primitive camping
Thursday 4-22 ride San Rafael Swell south of Interstate
Friday 4-23 ride San Rafael Swell & depart in the afternoon to Moab to
Canyon Lands RV Park.
Saturday 4-24 Enjoy Moab Car Show etc.....maybe afternoon ride
Sunday 4-25 Depart early for Dugout Ranch & Beef Basin .......long day
Jerry & Tim need transportation this day
Monday 4-26 Depart for Boise
Happy trails
-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tim Bernard <[e-mail]>
>To: Fred Hink <[e-mail]>; [e-mail] <[e-mail]>;
>[e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Monday, March 08, 1999 1:43 AM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Moab weather
>
>
>>Got a 435 do not need a tail wind. The weather in Moab depends upon the
>time
>>of day.
>>Fred---Do you think the Dug-Out Ranch road to ---- Basin will be open by
>>April 25 or will have to go over & back via elephant. Why don't you join
>us?
>
>Hi Tim,
>
>We have had less than average snowfall here and there is even less down
>south of Moab.  I would imagine that the snow would be gone there by then.
>Which "Basin" are you asking about?  The road from Dugout to Beef Basin or
>Dugout to Lockhart Basin?  If you go over to Beef Basin then you will have
>to go up and over Elephant Hill.  The Beef Basin to Lockhart Basin to Moab
>would be a very long day.  Elephant Hill and Lockhart would be quite a bit
>shorter and just as nice, still a long day.  If you do the loop in the
>"Needles" I would highly recommend doing the Joint Trail (hiking) while you
>are out there.  You probably already know this but you will need a street
>legal bike and a park pass to do Elephant Hill.
>
>Count me in, this sounds fun.  Who is going?
>
>Fred
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tengai input needed - replacing front rotor
Date: 08 Mar 1999 11:22:56 -0800

From what I've been able to gather in the archives, (I think it was Kurts
posting), I think the forks would also have to be replaced.  I've also read
that there are aftermarket (oversized) rotors available for the KLR's.
 HEY - ask Fred.

Arne


-----Original Message-----


>Is it possible to replace the standard front rotor and caliper on the
KLR650 with the rotor and calipers from the Tengai.  If so, where would you
get these parts from (also what are the part numbers)?





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 08 Mar 1999 14:20:35 +0000

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/7/99 5:44:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, [e-mail]
> writes:
>
> > Went to start up my KLR yesterday (1st time in 2 weeks) and had to bump
> >  start it due to a low battery.
>
> Sorry I am of no help to you with this problem, but I was curious to BUMP
> start a KLR!

Note:

Bump starting is a process one can use to start a bike in a race, start
a bike if you have a low battery, or start a bike when the electronic
starter motor fails (no kick-start option).

It means to turn on the fuel, apply the choke, turn on the key, push the
bike until you get into a good run and then jump up on the seat,  pull
the clutch, shift into 1st or second gear, let the clutch out, and hope
it starts before the bike comes to a halt.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fork Air Pressure?
Date: 08 Mar 1999 12:00:32 -0800 (PST)

Thanks Jeff,
I haven't seen that label yet, but I'll look. Even the dealer didn't
know why valves were resting on top of the forks if they were supposed
to run at ambient pressure. I still need to look at the pressure after
they heat up, it is a small chamber...

Congratulations on the A13!
I am really liking mine.




---Jeff Hayden <[e-mail]> wrote:
>
>
>
> "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" wrote:
>
> > Anybody know if 10-psi cold will damage the seals, or promote early
> > demise?
> >
> > Maybe I should measure the fork pressure after a good long
washboard...
>
> As a new comer to the digest, I was waiting to see if the experienced
> digesters would reply.  They didn't so here goes:
>
> While waxing the new KLR650-A13 (3/4/99) I found a label on the left
front
> fork tube near the reflector that addresses the fork tube Maximum Air
> Pressure issue.  "35 psi MAX"  I would use a hand style pump on it
if I
> were you.
>
> --
> Jeff - KLR650-A13 ---
> http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj          - Down Home Page
> http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page
>
>
>


==
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fork Air Pressure?
Date: 08 Mar 1999 12:00:32 -0800 (PST)

Thanks Jeff,
I haven't seen that label yet, but I'll look. Even the dealer didn't
know why valves were resting on top of the forks if they were supposed
to run at ambient pressure. I still need to look at the pressure after
they heat up, it is a small chamber...

Congratulations on the A13!
I am really liking mine.




---Jeff Hayden <[e-mail]> wrote:
>
>
>
> "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" wrote:
>
> > Anybody know if 10-psi cold will damage the seals, or promote early
> > demise?
> >
> > Maybe I should measure the fork pressure after a good long
washboard...
>
> As a new comer to the digest, I was waiting to see if the experienced
> digesters would reply.  They didn't so here goes:
>
> While waxing the new KLR650-A13 (3/4/99) I found a label on the left
front
> fork tube near the reflector that addresses the fork tube Maximum Air
> Pressure issue.  "35 psi MAX"  I would use a hand style pump on it
if I
> were you.
>
> --
> Jeff - KLR650-A13 ---
> http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj          - Down Home Page
> http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page
>
>
>


==
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tengai input needed - replacing front rotor
Date: 08 Mar 1999 13:02:56 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>>From what I've been able to gather in the archives, (I think it was Kurts
>posting), I think the forks would also have to be replaced.  I've also read
>that there are aftermarket (oversized) rotors available for the KLR's.
> HEY - ask Fred.
>
>Arne


Seems to me I remember that you would have to replace the forks too.  I sell
several different oversized rotors.  One I can get (MAP Engineering) and the
other (Braking Systems) has been on backorder for almost 8 months.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New (used) KLR!
Date: 08 Mar 1999 13:06:38 -0700

My friend's butt ugly '95 KLR was stolen in front of his GF's place with a
disk lock and I think a cable lock through the back.  I agree KLR's are not
as attractive as VFR's to steal, but don't get cocky or you'll be KLR-less.


Cheers,

Vik

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>> What happened to those '94's? Did they get hit with the ugly stick, or
>> what?
>
>After a while the ugliness will give you great peace of mind.  You never
>have to worry about someone wanting to steal it.  I've forgotten my key
>in the ignition more than once.
>
>I rode in a 24 hour rally last year and I was so flustered at the start
>I lost my key twice in the first 20 minutes.  Determined not to lose it
>again, I rode the rest of the rally without removing it from the ignition
>even during stops for rest, food, gas, and bonus point hunting.
>
>Another time I was riding home with a dead battery.  It took so long
>to get the thing started I was very reluctant to turn it off.  I made
>several stops in the 400 miles it took to get home, leaving my bike
>with the key in the ignition AND the engine running... not a problem.
>
>Try that with a VFR.
>
>Pete Dean
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Desmond, Richard - TAFB/LASPO2" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) trimming replies
Date: 08 Mar 1999 14:20:38 -0600

Hey folks, I hate to be a grump but could y'all please take a moment when
you're replying to a message from the list to trim the quoted text . It's
gotten reeeaall bad lately and makes scanning the digests a major pain.

Thanks,
Rich CMRA #352

'99 SV650
'97 900CR
'86 RZ500 (for sale)
'85 RZ350 x 2
'86 XT350 (for sale)
'80 GS1000S
'76 CB400
racing EX's






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) trimming replies - NKLR
Date: 08 Mar 1999 13:25:30 -0700

Rich,

Makes it hard to digest the digest?...=)

Sorry couldn't help myself.

Cheers,

Vik

-----Original Message-----


>Hey folks, I hate to be a grump but could y'all please take a moment when
>you're replying to a message from the list to trim the quoted text . It's
>gotten reeeaall bad lately and makes scanning the digests a major pain.
>






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Eater?
Date: 08 Mar 1999 15:40:43 +0000

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/7/99 9:12:02 PM Mountain Standard Time, [e-mail]
> writes:
>
> << If I occasionally shop at Wal-Mart and eat at McDonald's does that make me
> a
>  bad person?
>  Please let me know the "approved" places to shop/eat. >>
>
> Walmart and McDonald's have bailed my butt out of a few binds.  Last summer,
> in Nevada, my Virago blew a fuse and had no headlight or instrument lights.
> The philips head screw to my fuse panel got buggered up and I couldn't get the
> screw out. It was late Sunday, getting dark and I needed to keep rolling.  I
> scooted to a Walmart, they had a screw extractor and metric screws.  They
> *lent* me the use of their cordless drill and bits to remove the head and
> extract the screw.  I know plenty of bike shops where they won't lend you a
> screw driver much less let you walk out the door with with a $60.00 Makita.
>
> I don't know how many cups of lousy McDonalds coffee have kept me going on
> long rides in the cold.
>
> Gino

Super-size that coffee!

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Tengai
Date: 08 Mar 1999 12:59:43 -0800

Thanks for the response, but I'm grieving now...  Not only did I sell my
Valkyrie Tourer a couple of days ago,  The Tengai that I found last night,
and phoned on this morning - is SOLD.  I'll have to keep looking for this
relatively rare bike, as I think I have found what I was looking for.

Arne


-----Original Message-----


>In a message dated 99-03-08 11:30:08 EST, you write:
>
><< .  Is this a fair price?
> 2. What can ANYONE tell me about the Tengai.?  Compare it to let's say...
> oh, the standard KLR.  Weight comparison?  Handling? Dimensions?
>
> I read the front travel is less.  Is it a lot less?  Can this be
rectified?
> Would a person want to rectify this?  I could tell that a few people were
> wanting to convert their KLR's with Tengai front ends... I guess that this
> means that the Tengai front end is O.K.?
>
> If I go looking at this bike is there anything specific I should watch out
> for?
>
> I like the looks of it (from pictures I was able to find).  It's kind of
got
> that Translap/F650 Euro flavor.
>
>I bought a 1990 Tengai 6 months ago for $1880 USA.  9,000 miles, excellent
>condition, new battery and tires.  Still, I think $2500 is fair.  I just
got a
>bargain.  You don't say how you will use it.  I have found that the front
end
>travel is more than adequate for street, dirt trails and a bit of off road
>rougher use.  It is an eye catchng bike and I get complements on it.  I
>suppose you should confirm that the valves have been adjusted and that the
>chain tensioner is adjuster.  I go over everything after I buy.  Word is
that
>the KLR is basically bullet proof and the engine is the same.  Good luck -
Oh,
>don't expect to find a good tank bag, thus far I have not




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric West <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Tengai & Tank bag
Date: 08 Mar 1999 15:10:20 -0600

Arne,
    Sorry about you losing the Tengai.  You mentioned that it was along =
the lines of a Transalp,  I've had both and you're right except for the =
gas tank size, fuel mileage, and vibration levels.  TA vs KL  4.8-6.1 ; 38-=
55 ; smooth-not as smooth :-). That fuel mileage should compare favorably =
to the Valkyrie =3D8-}
   As far as tankbags for the KLR tank, I bought one at Motoport built for =
dual-sports which kept things at the right angles but wore out after a coup=
le of years fairly heavy use. Motoport=3D800/777-6499 YMMV
Eric West





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New (used) KLR!
Date: 08 Mar 1999 16:11:15 +0000

Eric Winslow wrote:
>
> Well, after spending much time thinking about getting a KLR, one showed up
> in Saturday's classifieds. I checked it out, rode it, and bought it. It's
> a '94 with 14,000 miles on it. Very clean. It had obviously not been
> ridden too much in the dirt. I can't wait to get it all legal and take it
> home for good.
>
> It's all stock, except for the tires perhaps. It has a brand new set of
> Metzler Enduros on it. Anybody have experience with these tires?
>
> What happened to those '94's? Did they get hit with the ugly stick, or
> what? No offence to those that love those colors. I'm sure I'll grow
> to love it, too. That color scheme of aqua, light purple and white is
> something else, though. The colors obviously didn't upset me too much. I
> didn't hesitate buying it. At least I'll be visible.
>
> Just wanted to share my good news.
>
> Sincerely,
> Eric (dual-purposing again) Winslow
> '94 KLR650
> '93 Suzuki GS500E

The Enduro 3 Sahara tires I had were great.  A nice balance of road and
dirt qualities.  I'm going back to them in a couple of years when my new
Metzeler street tires wear out.  I needed to experiment with the street
tire thing.  My plan is to get an XL 883 next year so I'll be needing a
set of knobbies for the KLR again.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Dare I ask
Date: 08 Mar 1999 21:23:41 -0000

Dare I ask what your views are on Harley's???????????

Coming from England I'd be interested in how they are viewed over there.
(And be nice!!!!!!!!)


Andy




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Encryption & Digital ID
Date: 08 Mar 1999 14:29:30 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0067_01BE6970.14903000
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


-----Original Message-----


>Thanks Fred.
>I don't trust putting my details on E-mail so I'll hang fire until I get
>some encryption software (for my birthday at the end of March).


Hi Andy,

Check out: http://www.verisign.com/securemail/guide   This service costs
about $10 a year for encryption and a digital ID.  They have a 90 day free
trial period.

Fred

------=_NextPart_000_0067_01BE6970.14903000
Content-Type: application/x-pkcs7-signature;
    name="smime.p7s"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Content-Disposition: attachment;
    filename="smime.p7s"
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------=_NextPart_000_0067_01BE6970.14903000--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR Re: (klr650) McDonald's, Wal-Mart, and...
Date: 08 Mar 1999 17:02:23 -0500

Here's something I've heard work (I won't do it because I think it's a
little dangerous)   A Canadian Jeep (Eltis by Bombardier) ran out of gas in
Yugoslavia, in an attempt to get home they put all the Naptha they had into
the tank.  It worked although the engine ran pretty hot.  It seems like you
have to treat things like you don't own then if you want your monies worth.
Stephen Rivett

>I would like to figure out how to jet my bike for ethanol, for when the gas
>dries up.  Something that I can make in my still out back.  Or maybe
>methane. --joke.
>
>BTW, I still boycott Exxon to this day.  Go to Alaska and you'll
understand.
>
>Jeff
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Damper rod tool
Date: 08 Mar 1999 13:39:53 PST

     Hey there you listers,

     I am performing what seems to be a common set of mods on my A12
     including a set of progressive springs for the forks.

     I would like to know what size nut I need to build a tool to hold the
     damper rod in place while I tighten the Allen bolt in the lower leg
     (yes, I know I don't have to touch the Allen bolt to replace the
     springs but curiosity got the better of me and now I can't tighten the
     darn thing).

     Also, I ride mostly on very dusty roads.  I have seen references to a
     "hot" setup which sees a large main jet, twelve discs in a supertrapp
     IDS, a K&N filter and no air box cover.  Has anyone had any experience
     with this configuration?  Has anyone run at length on dusty roads
     without an air box cover?

     Thanks,

     Rob




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "joel newtson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New (used) KLR!
Date: 08 Mar 1999 14:07:45 PST

     I thought KHI made the KLR ugly on purpose!  You mean someone
actually CHOSE that putrid-looking greenish blue?  That color makes the
KLR (an otherwise attractive bike, IMHO) look the way roadkill smells!

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Daniel L. Hill" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: Bingo!!
Date: 08 Mar 1999 17:28:31 -0500

Dennis,
I'm on so called "spring" break, so I had a little time to let you know how
great my bike is.

The klr650 is the best tri-sport bike you can get in the United States of
America. It will run forever, if you take care of it. I've had an
interceptor and sportster, and I prefer the klr over them. The riding
position is traditional and great for long trips.  The seat is ok, but a
little hard for real real long riding periods, about two of three hours is
ok. I am 5'-10 and find the height of the bike ok too. You can really be
seen better in car traffic for people that look out, but side winds is
something you need to be ready for.

On the highway, 70-75 is possible; I was doing it all the time till the
government went to this zero tolerance thing on speeding. I am not sure how
the factory luggage racks effect highway handling. I use a back pack.

I have found with lots of highway riding that the bike needs extra rider
inspections for things coming loose. My chain is over two years old and only
has needed adjusting a few times. I need to add I never get into mud, only
dirt roads and trails abuse.

The bike is super great on the pocket book too, from insurance to
maintenance. You will think it runs on air.

It is an all around great bike; darn near perfection for today's technology.
It is a rider's bike, not a status symbol for the chicks or 200 mph devil.

There are links to web pages with lots of stuff you can use in your
research-
http://members.visi.net/~dlhill/bike
http://members.tripod.com/dlhill

Check out some of the motorcycle magazines online too.

I'll forward you note to the friendly experts at the KLR650 mail list,
probable over a ten thousand years of combined KLR experience there. An
impressive bone yard of knowledge.  [[e-mail]]

I think you will come to the same decision on your next bike as I did.

Let me get back to the thermodynamics. Good luck ,Dan




-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, March 08, 1999 3:02 PM


Looks like a KLR650.  If so, I hope you will take the time to offer advice.
I
have always been interested in a bike such as the KLR.  Currently ride
BMWK100LT.  Great bike but don't get to ride as much as I would like.  I
prefer touring and ride local very little.  How is the KLR for distance
road.
I would seldom be off-road.  What is the maintenance like?  I hate tinkering
but usually do so for lack of money.  What do you think of chain drive?  I
swore I would never own another chain.  But, I continue to hear that chains
have changed a lot over the years and are not near as much headache.  I am
6',
thin.  How will the bike fit me?  Do you know anyone who makes an
aftermarket
wind screen that will get the air up and over the helmet?  I prefer to be
protected.  How long do you think a "thumper" will last?  Does one cylinder
have half the life of two?  Bottom line is that I want to move down on
weight
and I like the idea of 300 mile range with ability to carry a lot of gear.
But, I need it to capable of spending days on end at 75 mph on the
superslab.
Thanks for taking time.  I look forward to hearing from you if time permits.
Nice page.

Thanks,

Dennis Watson
Alabama




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) A good website
Date: 08 Mar 1999 22:33:00 -0000

I found this today.

The Jo Guest bit is very good.  She'd make some umbrella girl.

http://www.motorcycleworld.co.uk/




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) motoport ultraII cordura jacket and pants.
Date: 08 Mar 1999 17:43:13 -0500

At 11:26 PM 3/7/99 -0500, Tim Bootle wrote:
>Does anybody have any experience with these?  I talked to the company
>president at Daytona yesterday for about 20 minutes and he was very
>convincing that this combo would make a perfect hot weather protective
>gear set.  He claims it is much much cooler than Aerostich as his is not
>rain proof and therefore breathes well.  Can anybody comment?  I'm going
>to be riding year round in Florida with 95% humidity, 95 degrees for the
>six  months of summer and need something to keep my skin from peeling
>off in a crash that won't give me heatstroke.

Tim:

I have a Motoport Ultra II, live in SE Florida and am very happy with both
jacket and pants.  The advantage, as I see it for humid weather, is that
the Cordura is uncoated and breathes very well.  The only complaint I had
was that the mesh liner of the jacket frayed where it rubbed against the
Motoport pants, but they are fixing that as we write.  I also bought the
Thinsulate liners, but thats because I'm going north in a couple of months.
  None of it is cheap, but it should last a long time.

I owned a Joe Rocket jacket before, but it was much hotter, and did not
have good zippered ventilation.  The Cordura on that jacket was coated.

Stuart



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Spotting
Date: 08 Mar 1999 15:45:51 -0700

The April '99 issue of Motorcyclist has an article on a UK couple that
toured the world two-up on a CX500 for 16 years.  They bought a tiny
sailboat at one point and dismantled the bike to fit it below deck and
proceeded to sail to China!!!  These guys give Helge a run for his money.
Anyway its page 72.  If people want I can scan a copy of the article and
e-mail it or post it to a webpage if someone is willing to supply the
webpage.

That same issue also has a nice review on the SV650 ($7800CDN at a local
dealership).

The April '99 issue of Rider has a nice article about touring Maritime
Canada and NE USA(PEI, Nova Scotia, Quebec, Maine) on a R1100GS.  (Page 80)
I can do the scan e-mail/webpage thing with this article as well should
interest dictate.

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Tengai
Date: 08 Mar 1999 15:19:29 -0800

In Abbotsford, British Columbia, CANADA.  On the west coast, about a 2.5
hour drive up the I-5 north from Seattle.  And thanks, I'll need it :(

Arne (feeling sorry for myself...)


-----Original Message-----


>good luck finding one
>where do you live?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tengai input needed
Date: 08 Mar 1999 18:12:01 EST

Arnie, I have the factory Tengai shop manual and would be glad to forward any
data you need from it.
Frank in Omaha trying to figure out how to unsubscribe, but not bright enough.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) More RIP KLR
Date: 08 Mar 1999 18:24:50 EST

In a message dated 3/8/99 1:09:59 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< >We certainly have two different positions on this issue.  The driver
didn't
 >mean to hit me.  He had no malice towards me.  It was a mistake and they
 are
 >made every single day.  I asked the driver later what he thought of the
 >accident.  He apologized and said he was sorry for yelling at me.  He
 stated
 >he was shaken up and scared when he saw me fly over the car.  I certainly
 >believe him since I would be in the same situation.  He simply over-reacted
 >causing me to over-react.
 >
 >Most people are good people, but they make mistakes.  He learned not to
 >follow motorcyclist too closely and I learned not to slow too fast when
 cars >>
After all the crap this list has endured lately, its refreshing to encounter
your honesty and dignity. I hope you mend quickly and have a great riding
year. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Damper rod tool
Date: 08 Mar 1999 18:36:53 EST

In a message dated 3/8/99 4:05:40 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I would like to know what size nut I need to build a tool to hold the
      damper rod in place while I tighten the Allen bolt in the lower leg
      (yes, I know I don't have to touch the Allen bolt to replace the
      springs but curiosity got the better of me and now I can't tighten the
      darn thing). >>
Rob, if you can take your fork leg to your dealer, or if you have an air
compressor with an air wrench, you can spin the allen bolt fast enough that
you don't have to lock down the back side. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #104
Date: 08 Mar 1999 18:35:17 EST

In a message dated 3/D/YY 2:53:11 PM Pacific Standard Time, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

<< Coming from England I'd be interested in how they are viewed over there >>

They are the motorcycle guys buy to remind them of the brave young man they
never were before.
Also, Cameron for President. ( as long as his interns are not such heifers ).



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Shawn Bryan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) motoport ultraII cordura jacket and pants.
Date: 08 Mar 1999 18:48:04 -0500

I have a Motoport Ultratrek II cordura one piece which they no longer make.
Had it for 3 years now.  Very satisfied.

Plus's:  Breathes well in hot weather.  Flows lots of air.  Great armor.
Very comprehensive protection.  The liner is waterproof and warm.  Extends
my riding season well into November here in VT (ridden fast and hard in 10
degree weather.  Cold hands and face but not the suit.  Washes very well.

Minus's:  Stiff, heavy and bulky, especially when new.  You have to like the
Michelin man look!  The uncoated cordura tends to fuzz a little, especially
where the velcro closes around the pockets.  Not a defect and probably not
much to be done but can look a little funky.  I trim with scissors once in a
while to keep it under control.  The liner works as advertised.  It's really
warm.  In between days are tough.  Also, when it rains on a hot day you get
wet or use a rain suit.  The liner is too hot for anything warmer than 70
degrees in my opinion.

Bottom line:  I love mine and for a warm climate it can't be beaten.  In a
cold climate I think either a Stitch or Ultratrek would work fine.  I'm
partial to my decision having seen and worn both but both a quality products
backed by quality manufacturers so it would be tough to call either a bad
decision.  YMMV.

Shawn Bryan
1990 VFR Red (white wheels!), AMA, DoD, etc.
-----Original Message-----


>Does anybody have any experience with these?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 08 Mar 1999 18:28:48 EST

In a message dated 3/8/99 1:22:51 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<<  > Went to start up my KLR yesterday (1st time in 2 weeks) and had to bump
 > >  start it due to a low battery. >>
Also, kick start lever assemblies are available from your Kawasaki dealer for
about $180 US Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Low battery
Date: 08 Mar 1999 18:53:48 +0000

J.Taylor wrote:
>
> I have bought 2 from WalMart and they each cost $27.00 each. Yuasa
> batteries, ready with acid. Had to replace one after I droped it
> otherwise it was fine. The present one has 24 months on it and as long
> as I check water levels periodically, its OK. The 'Mart does stock them
> down here; check them if they are near you.
>
> Jake, who found his dealer peddling the same batteries as WalMart for
> $48 more than I paid.
>
> Jeffrey Doyle wrote:
> >
> > March has come in like a lion up here in New England.
> >
> > Went to start up my KLR yesterday (1st time in 2 weeks) and had to bump
> > start it due to a low battery.  Got it going after the third hop though
> > (and didn't kick out the rear directional signals in the process).  Took
> > a five miler by Long Island Sound and thought about how happy I should
> > be with the 40 degree heat wave.  Today there's snow on the ground, 40
> > mph winds and highs in the 20's.  Dam I can't wait for summer.  These
> > short rides have to do for now.
> >
> > I checked my chain adjustment (cold) according to the lister that said
> > it should be within about a 1/16th inch from the padded forward part of
> > the swingarm when you push up on it from the bottom and low and behold I
> > had it right on the money.  It's much easier than trying to eye-ball it
> > with a ruler!  I was concerned about that because I made the foolish
> > mistake of damaging one countershaft already.  Lot's of cool info on
> > this list.
> >
> > Time to crank up the trickle charger, top off the cells, and get my last
> > 12 months out of this 36 month wonder.  KLR batteries aren't cheap.  I
> > think this gem cost me about $70.00 filled from a dealer 2 years ago.
> > It shocked me a little because I used to buy Dorsey batteries for
> > previous bikes for a lot less.  Just had to be careful with the acid
> > bag.  I think I'll shop around next time.
> >
> > Jeff

Thank you for the info,

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) More RIP KLR
Date: 08 Mar 1999 16:21:02 -0800


>Besides, the last thing I want to do is make another lawyer more money.
>
>C.
>
Great point, OK, you've convinced me.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (Kickstarter)
Date: 08 Mar 1999 19:15:40 +0000

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/8/99 1:22:51 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
> writes:
>
> <<  > Went to start up my KLR yesterday (1st time in 2 weeks) and had to bump
>  > >  start it due to a low battery. >>
> Also, kick start lever assemblies are available from your Kawasaki dealer for
> about $180 US Frank



Oh yeah.....and I've got an A2 that actually has the penetration labled
"kickstarter" on the right engine case.  Ten years after and I'm still
thinking about it.  The electric leg spoiled me.  When I had my '73
Yamaha TX 650 (really really nice motor) it had both kick and electric
and back then I rarely used the electric start and got great battery
life.  I may put a kickstarter on it though if I ever get enough time to
explore some serious wilderness material (about the time I qualify for
antique plates).

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) More RIP KLR
Date: 08 Mar 1999 16:29:37 -0800



>Maybe Jeff was being sarcastic, but as for denying everything and making
>counter accusations???  Speak the TRUTH.
>
>Arne
>

Sorry, but sometimes my Special Forces counter-intellegence training slips
out at the wrong moments.  I guess that its called counter-intellegence for
a reason.

Jeff






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery
Date: 08 Mar 1999 19:31:56 -0500

Kick start assemblies? For the 96 KLR 650, also?
I'll have to check this out.
NY Pete
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>In a message dated 3/8/99 1:22:51 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail]
>writes:
>
><<  > Went to start up my KLR yesterday (1st time in 2 weeks) and had to
bump
> > >  start it due to a low battery. >>
>Also, kick start lever assemblies are available from your Kawasaki dealer
for
>about $180 US Frank
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low battery- Kick Starter
Date: 08 Mar 1999 19:40:51 EST

On 3/8/99, [e-mail] writes:

> Kick start assemblies? For the 96 KLR 650, also?
>  I'll have to check this out.
>  NY Pete

 Sorry. It only works on pre '96 motors.

 Redondo Ron - - - - - don't shoot the messenger



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) new topic...
Date: 08 Mar 1999 19:22:04 -0600

Stephen Rivett wrote:
> I'm gonna let it pass.  Although I can't comprehend somebody sticking up for
> McDonalds.  New topic, Canada has it's positive points...


1. NO BUGS for at least 6 months of the year! (O'course ya can't RIDE
anything 'cept a snowmobile during those 6 months...)

2. ...



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Zeliff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) new topic...
Date: 08 Mar 1999 20:36:10 -0500

The loonie is 60 cents to the US $.  Everything but gas is a bargin...great
roads and great people too!



-----Original Message-----


>Stephen Rivett wrote:
>> I'm gonna let it pass.  Although I can't comprehend somebody sticking up
for
>> McDonalds.  New topic, Canada has it's positive points...
>
>
>1. NO BUGS for at least 6 months of the year! (O'course ya can't RIDE
>anything 'cept a snowmobile during those 6 months...)
>
>2. ...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR - Buy American ?
Date: 08 Mar 1999 20:05:26 -0600

Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:
>I prefer Jap and Euro engineering and
>finish to American, and I have owned 14 different cars in the last 12 years.
>Of those, only three were American...


Hmmm...14 cars in 12 years...maybe you need to buy MORE American...seems
like I see a lot of 14 year old American stuff still on the road...

<Grin>  (Actually, let's go back further...anyone seen a nice-looking
'73 Chev 1/2 ton lately?  Rusted-out pieces of sh*t...but they jes keep
on runnin'...)

FWIW, seems like almost everything up here (Canada) is 'made in China',
the last few years.  I'm not real happy about that...

hungree

OK, if ya read this far, here's a lil joke:

I run into a buddy an' he sez "Wife an' I had a BIG fight, but she came
crawling to me on her hands and knees".

I sez "Ya? What'd she say?"

He sez "She said 'come on out from under that bed, you chicken!'"



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steven \"scooter scum\" Johnson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 08 Mar 1999 19:28:42 -0700

Andy asks:
>Dare I ask what your views are on Harley's???????????
>
>Coming from England I'd be interested in how they are viewed over there.

My story goes like this:  I finally got a friend that
bought a harley.  We had been riding together for
years.  We swap bikes all the time.  I was over joyed
that I would finally get a chance to ride a bike I always
lusted for.

Well on a beautiful day, we went for a ride in the mountians.
I spent 20 miles on the bike on nice lazy 2 lane road.

The first thing I noticed was the lack of brakes.  The bike
is heavy and very difficult to stop.  I helped me understand
why my buddy just about flipped my TDM at the end of his
Driveway.  He did his usual EAGLE Claw 5 finger grab to
stop the bike...My TDM has maybe a 2 finger brake!
He was shocked at how quickly the TDM stopped.

The bike was a '92 Heritage Classic with the new
Evolution engine.  The seat looked very plush, but
seemed to cut me in all the wrong places.  The bike
vibrated violently.  More vibration than any bike I have
ever ridden in my 30 years of riding.  After about 10 miles,
I was ready to trade back...but I thought well maybe it will
grow in me.

He had after market pipes (what Harley doesn't?).  In top
gear I would roll on the gas and would only be rewarded with
more noise rather than acceleration.  The bike did not
handle very well in the mountains, lots of effort through
the corners.

When we stopped for ice-cream, I was ready to get off.
My forearm was pumped from the front brake, my ass
was tired and I had no fun.

The Harley has not changed much since our
grandfathers rode them.  My only conclusion
is that my Grandfather was much tougher person than I am!

That day any dream of a Harley disappeared.  I no longer
have the desire.  Don't get me wrong, I think harleys are a
work of art. I just don't think they fit me.

Steven "scooter scum" Johnson
'95 KLX650C - Cheaper than therapy
'95 KLX250/321 - Just call me yellow britches
'95 K1100RS - Mileage monster
'92 TDM850 - Dual Sport of course




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (Kickstarter)
Date: 08 Mar 1999 20:29:52 -0600

Jeffrey Doyle wrote:
> Oh yeah.....and I've got an A2 that actually has the penetration labled
> "kickstarter" on the right engine case...


My '89 has 'the place' as well, but the local dealer says 'kickstart kit
no longer available'.   Just for us in Canada perhaps?

phil
A3



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) new topic...
Date: 08 Mar 1999 21:39:23 -0500

There is still great dirtbiking all year round if you're tough enough for
it.  I'm taking my 1983 CR250 out for an over night camping trip tomorrow.
I just use a hair spray bottle full of gasoline to start it (have to take
off the seat/air filter :( As long as the temp is just below 0C you'll be
okay, but hope to God the trails don't melt...then the riding gets tough.  I
was going to make a trailer hitch for it but my friend couldn't come along
because of a test he found out he had.  Anybody else an avid winter dirtbike
driver?  I use my 5th gear powerband going across lakes >:)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Boots and Jackets
Date: 08 Mar 1999 22:01:07 EST

I use the Kilamanjaro (sp?) and it is simply excellent.   Pockets galore and
OK in hot weather.  I've put about 20K miles on mine and it is still one of my
best pieces of equipment.  and it comes in tall sizes.

JP Gray

Dana Point Ca

94 ST1100
95 KLR650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Conall O'Brien)
Subject: (klr650) Re:Motoport UltraII Cordura Jacket
Date: 08 Mar 1999 19:33:58 -0800 (PST)

To Tim Bootle:
Hello- I'm catching up with mail from yesterday.
I have a Motoport UltraII Cordura Jacket.
The Darien looks nice, but the Motoport is the mother of all protective
jackets,IMO.
Materials:
Outer- 1000 Denier Ultra Cordura. This new Cordure weave is stronger
than 1050 Denier Ballistic Cordura.
Inner- Breathable nylon mesh. It gets pretty hot here in Ca, in the
summer, so hot that the wind makes it feel hotter, rather than cool. I
wore my jacket through the interior of calif in 105'+ F. heat for
several days, and although I looked like a wreck, I wasn't really that
uncomfortable.
Keep in mind- low humidity compared to Florida.

It does breathe pretty well with big adjustable arm sleeves, underarm
vents, and more vents in the arms.
Different design philosophy(sp?) than others, it's not waterpoof by
itself (you knew that), but a waterproof liner jacket is optional.

The armour is really substantial. Shoulders, elbows,forearms,and back,
even the frontal chest area!  3/8" thick dual density memory foam with
E.V.A. (?) kinetic absorbing foam inner.Plastic membrane between the
layers of foam.
8 pockets, reflective striping , the usual stuff.
The pants look similiar, but I haven't boughten those yet, I want pants
with hip pads more than any other feature.
If you want protection the UltraII jacket is the one, and it does
breathe really well. Dries out fairly quick too.

Conall-  " people are more violently oppossed to fur than leather
because it's safer to harass rich women than motorcycle gangs."
[e-mail]
Fremont, CA USA
A4 (1990) "skyhawk" 57400 miles
http://www.angelfire.com/co/klr650/index.html




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kraka <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: NKRL SUV
Date: 08 Mar 1999 21:48:39 -0600

I personally will be purchasing a full sized CARGO VAN for my
SUV. I will use it to aid in the enjoyment of my KLR-650 and CR-500.
It is a totally practical choice... and at about $20K will serve
me better than any contemporary SUV with 1/2 the cargo space and 1.5
times
the cost.

there is my $0.02 worth.

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> Jeff wrote:>>>>>
> I agree.  Buying SUV's has become a real status thing.  Talk about
> pretentiousness!  A MERCEDES SUV!  Please!  If that isn't a status thing,
> then I don't know what is.
> <<<<<<
>
> I am no BMW basher (I think the GS80 is one of the best bikes made), but the
> BMW GS1000 is the motorcycle equivalent of the MERCEDES SUV (and many other
> SUVs); all hat and no cowboy.
>
> Not looking for flames,
> Anonymous Pat



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) UltraII
Date: 08 Mar 1999 20:06:54 PST

Conoll,

I've been mulling over the choice between the Motoport Ultra II and
the Darien.  The Ultra II does sound like the ultimate in protection
and better for hot weather.  But, how well does that removable
waterprood liner work?  It is a hassle to put on when that sudden shower
surprises you?  Does it make the jacket realllllly hot during a summer
rain?  What's it like to have the whole outer shell soaked?

Marick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: NKRL SUV
Date: 08 Mar 1999 23:38:41 -0500

Actually, you can get a four wheel drive van!  I almost bought one last year
before I bought my Isuzu Trooper.  (my wife did not want another van)  Check out
the site http://sportsmobile.com  They sell motor homes but can sell you a 4x4 van
stripped if you want.  What a country we live in!  Whatever you can dream of
wanting, you can buy! -Tim

Kraka wrote:

> I personally will be purchasing a full sized CARGO VAN for my
> SUV. I will use it to aid in the enjoyment of my KLR-650 and CR-500.
> It is a totally practical choice... and at about $20K will serve
> me better than any contemporary SUV with 1/2 the cargo space and 1.5
> times
> the cost.
>
> there is my $0.02 worth.
>
> [e-mail] wrote:
> >
> > Jeff wrote:>>>>>
> > I agree.  Buying SUV's has become a real status thing.  Talk about
> > pretentiousness!  A MERCEDES SUV!  Please!  If that isn't a status thing,
> > then I don't know what is.
> > <<<<<<
> >
> > I am no BMW basher (I think the GS80 is one of the best bikes made), but the
> > BMW GS1000 is the motorcycle equivalent of the MERCEDES SUV (and many other
> > SUVs); all hat and no cowboy.
> >
> > Not looking for flames,
> > Anonymous Pat




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Conall O'Brien)
Subject: (klr650) Thanks Fred
Date: 08 Mar 1999 20:43:12 -0800 (PST)

Fred in Moab took my order on a Sunday, so his hours are just as good as
Walmarts. Wed. they were here. I got the magnetic drain plug, K&P SS oil
filter, and rear brake master cylinder protector thingy. Add them to the
KLR must have accessories.
I shop at  local Walmart only when I have to, and there is a McD. inside
as well. But generally I don't like walking across a football-field
sized parking lot, to go into a store the size of a football-field, to
find a 19 yr. old kid who's been working there for 3 months and doesn't
know( expletive deleted) about the product. And what's with those
motorized shopping buggy's?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) UltraII
Date: 08 Mar 1999 23:54:20 -0500

Wayne, the president of Motoport, told me the following about the jacket
this past Saturday.  (paraphrased)

"You can't wear the liner at over 85 degrees. The liner not only makes the
jacket waterproof it insulates.  He told me that the liner is a cold weather
piece. It is not for hot weather rain protection.  The summer solution is a
light rain jacket and the Ultra II.  He also said that you don't need the
liner for about the first 40 minutes of rain as the water will pour off like
off of a duck's back for a while.  (Is THAT true Conall?)   The jacket dries
really quick (much much quicker than a t-shirt) after being wet. "

By the way, I've decided to buy the Ultra II because I don't care if I'm wet
in the summer.  I do care if I die of heat stroke. (Acutally, I wouldn't
really die of heatstroke.  I just would not wear the jacket if it is too
hot.  And thats the whole point of spending the $350 isn't it!)  I've got to
have it cool so the Motoport Ultra II is my choice.
-Tim Bootle, Largo Florida.


Marick Payton wrote:

> Conoll,
>
> I've been mulling over the choice between the Motoport Ultra II and
> the Darien.  The Ultra II does sound like the ultimate in protection
> and better for hot weather.  But, how well does that removable
> waterprood liner work?  It is a hassle to put on when that sudden shower
> surprises you?  Does it make the jacket realllllly hot during a summer
> rain?  What's it like to have the whole outer shell soaked?
>
> Marick




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 08 Mar 1999 23:47:09 +0000


>Andy asks:
>>Dare I ask what your views are on Harley's???????????
>>
>>Coming from England I'd be interested in how they are viewed over there.


    My perspective: Whelp, the build quality is there, at least in terms of
fit and finish, Paint is beautiful. You have probably figured that much.

    As for living with one...well, the last Harley I was on was my dad's '64
XLCH Sportster, up on the tank in front of him, doing about 105 down a
country road. I was about five...

    But aside from that, well, it can be hard to say just how good a bike they
actualy are because most of the folks that own them seem to put few miles
on them. Many of their owners claim excelent service, but then they might
have 5 year old bikes that have 6,000 miles on them. Its weird. It is often
observed that many Harley owners realy arent interested in owning a
motorcycle but rather are buying into a lifestyle, a state of mind, a
myth...whatever.

    I did manage to sit down and talk with a group of aviation mechanics out
of Atlanta at a motorcycle campground. They were on big touring bikes that
averaged about five years old and 35,000-50,000 miles on the clock, so for
once I had some Harley people that were qualified to tell me what the deal
was. They reported what sounded like what struck me as a somewhat excessive
number of mechancal problems, but overall they seemed to be holding up OK.
Its not like jumping on some Honda hydraulic-valved inline four (ultra-low
maintenece) but they were decent.

    I'll stick with my KLR, thenk you.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650
32,000 miles





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Valkyrie
Date: 08 Mar 1999 23:13:38 -0800

It was a beautiful bike.  I was the proud owner for 2 years.  Unfortunately
I never rode it as much as it deserved, so I felt that $20,000 (Canadian)
was an awful lot of money to not be used.  In a way I am  having regrets, as
this year I will have more time to ride (last year I built a house, and the
year before that I had to have a knee re-constructed).  At this point in
time the guy who bought the bike from me is married with no kids.  If he
ever needs to sell the bike to pay for the minivan I will offer to buy it
back from him.

Practically every publication has rated the valkyrie #1 in it's class for
the last few years running.  The only real fault that any seem to have is
with the love it or hate it looks of the bike.

Arne

>>Thanks for the response, but I'm grieving now...  Not only did I sell my
>>Valkyrie Tourer a couple of days ago,  The Tengai that I found last night,
>>and phoned on this morning - is SOLD.  I'll have to keep looking for this
>>relatively rare bike, as I think I have found what I was looking for.
>>Arne
>
>Hello Arne,
>I've had my eye lately on these Valkyries.  Did you have yours for long?
>How did you like it?
>I'm mostly curious, as I won't have the money to get anything that spendy
>for a good while (I'm a professional student).
>
>Thanks
>Carlos




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "R. Kaub" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Fw: Prices
Date: 09 Mar 1999 08:02:05

>X-ROUTED: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 13:48:06 -0500
>From: "Sandra Blackmer" <[e-mail]>
>To: "R. Kaub" <[e-mail]>
>Subject: Re: Fw: Prices
>Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 13:44:07 -0500
>X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.2106.4
>X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4
>
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>Although our catalog does not list clear coated lines, we do offer them at
>the same price.  Simply add "S" behind the part number when ordering.
>
>Feel free to let this list of subscribers know that we offer this and we
>hope they will consider using Russell.
>
>We accept Visa and MasterCard and you may order via e-mail or phone @
>904-253-8980.
>A $5.00 flat shipping charge is added to any web site order shipped within
>the continental U.S.
>
>Thanks,
>Sandra Blackmer
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: R. Kaub <[e-mail]>
>To: Sandra Blackmer <[e-mail]>
>Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 12:58 PM
>Subject: Re: Fw: Prices
>
>
>>At 01:25 PM 3/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>> Dear Bob,
>>>
>>>We are pleased to provide you with the following information for your
>KLR650
>>>Kawasaki:
>>>#08316   brake line kit                          $46.59
>>>#40528  7mm x 1.0 Speed Bleeders    $12.97/set of 2
>>>
>>
>>Ms. Blackmer:
>>Thank you for your speedy response.
>>It has come to my attention-from subscribers to the KLR650 mailing
>>list-that the Russell stainless steel lines for the KLR650 do NOT have a
>>plastic or soft covering over the stainless steel braid and the brake line
>>will significantly chafe any bike parts that it rubs against while the bike
>>is moving.  In contrast, another supplier, "Fastline" is supposed to have a
>>clear plastic covering on their KLR650 aftermarket brake lines which
>>eliminates the chafing problem.  Is this the case?  If so, do you have a
>>recommendation for eliminating the chafing problem that might occur with
>>your line without requiring significant extra expense and installation
>>time.  Thanks.
>>Bob Kaub
>>State University of New York
>>PO Box 6000
>>Binghamton, NY  13902
>>607-777-2715
>>
>
>
>
>
Bob Kaub
State University of New York
PO Box 6000
Binghamton, NY  13902
607-777-2715



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) E.A.R.  vs IDS
Date: 09 Mar 1999 08:52:23 EST


howdy,

Has anyone used both pipes on the same bike?  Like one right after the other.

Have any of you enterprising lads (or lasses) taken a decibel-meter to the two
pipes on the same bike for comparison purposes?

Would one be more apt to say the IDS is a significant (read: cutting down
sound) improvement over the EAR, or merely a mild step in the direction of
reducing noise?

And lastly, what is an acceptable interval before the repacking of fiberglass
is needed?

thanks,
Steve
(who reminds you that those who oppose us will stand ankle-deep in the blood
of their children)

98 R/XC 620
96 Virago 1100



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 09 Mar 1999 07:06:32 -0700

Andy asks:
>Dare I ask what your views are on Harley's???????????
>
>Coming from England I'd be interested in how they are viewed over there.


I have owned two Harleys.  They were cool, neat and all hat stuff.  But just
not worth the money.  I'll take my Virago anyday.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Encryption & Digital ID  NOT!!
Date: 09 Mar 1999 07:47:17 -0700

Dear Digesters,

I want to appoligize for my blunder on my last post.  I didn't know that my
digital ID was an attachment.  Thanks to the "List Sweeper" CA Truk I am now
bleeding from every orfice.  I can blame my mistake on all the pain killers
making my brain turn to mush.
Thanks Ron for setting me straight. :<)

I won't do it again, until next time.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Cornell, Bob)
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #105
Date: 09 Mar 1999 09:06:20 -0600

Andy asks:
>>Dare I ask what your views are on Harley's???????????


I have one and I love it.
I have a KLR and I love it.
I have a KDX and I love it.

Just gotta use each one for what it is meant to be used. I won't ride the
Harley in an Enduro, nor the KLR in a Hare Scrambles, nor the KDX to go out
to dinner.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Rear brake lines
Date: 09 Mar 1999 07:58:59 PST

Is the plastic coating required for the rear brake lines?

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Rear brake lines
Date: 09 Mar 1999 10:06:54 -0700

>>Is the plastic coating required for the rear brake lines?

No, since it runs through a nice loop that keeps it away from anything that
can be scarred by it.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Buy American ?
Date: 09 Mar 1999 11:03:15 -0800



>Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:
>>I prefer Jap and Euro engineering and
>>finish to American, and I have owned 14 different cars in the last 12
years.
>>Of those, only three were American...
>
>
>Hmmm...14 cars in 12 years...maybe you need to buy MORE American...seems
>like I see a lot of 14 year old American stuff still on the road...
>
My hobby was buying a car, fixing it up, cruise it for a while, sell it, and
buy another.  The time I spent on this hobby was therapy, and kept me out of
trouble.  Hey, most of those cars were bugs, and a few sports cars, like a
Triumph Spitfire, and a Fiat Spyder 2000.  I always had my bug and jeep
though, until my wife made me sell




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) new topic...
Date: 09 Mar 1999 12:02:11 -0700


    Not as much of a bargain as you might think. Their taxes are
incredible, although they'll return motel taxes to you at the border. Wait
till you buy a bottle of booze, V.O. is at least twice as much as in
Colorado. It's all worth it when you eat at a chip truck. Fresh cut fries,
Yum!! Bogdan
> The loonie is 60 cents to the US $.  Everything but gas is a
> bargin...great
> roads and great people too!
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) E.A.R.  vs IDS
Date: 09 Mar 1999 11:22:10 -0800

,
>Steve
>(who reminds you that those who oppose us will stand ankle-deep in the
blood
>of their children)
>
I would like to stress that killing children and other non-combatants is
against the Geneva Convention's Laws of Land Warfare, and is punishable by
court-martial, and execution by firing squad.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) trimming replies
Date: 08 Mar 1999 23:39:20 -0800

Thanks for the much need plea Rich.  Darrel A12
**********************************
Hey folks, I hate to be a grump but could y'all please take a moment when
you're replying to a message from the list to trim the quoted text . It's
gotten reeeaall bad lately and makes scanning the digests a major pain.

Thanks,
Rich CMRA #352




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 09 Mar 1999 11:42:06 -0800

> But aside from that, well, it can be hard to say just how good a bike they
>actualy are because most of the folks that own them seem to put few miles
>on them. Many of their owners claim excelent service, but then they might
>have 5 year old bikes that have 6,000 miles on them. Its weird. It is often
>observed that many Harley owners realy arent interested in owning a
>motorcycle but rather are buying into a lifestyle, a state of mind, a
>myth...whatever.


Exactly.  And I want to know, if the image is to be this "rebel" type, then
why do they all wear the same uniform?  Leather jacket, leather chaps, Nazi
style half helmet, blah blah blah.  My abuelita said it best one night when
we were watching "Cops at Daytona".  She said "All those beautiful bikes,
and the people on them look like shit!"

> I did manage to sit down and talk with a group of aviation mechanics out
>of Atlanta at a motorcycle campground. They were on big touring bikes that
>averaged about five years old and 35,000-50,000 miles on the clock, so for
>once I had some Harley people that were qualified to tell me what the deal
>was. They reported what sounded like what struck me as a somewhat excessive
>number of mechancal problems, but overall they seemed to be holding up OK.
>Its not like jumping on some Honda hydraulic-valved inline four (ultra-low
>maintenece) but they were decent.
>
My thinking is that engineering should always be progressing and improving.
In design and manufacturing processes.  It shouldn't remain static, like
with the Harley.  If they aren't going to make any improvements, how can
they justify charging so much four antiquated designs?  Collectable?  Not my
cup of tea.  Like car show cars that never get driven.  Bikes are meant to
be ridden daily.   I do kind of like the new Buells though.

Just my opinions.  My brother in law is really into his custom HD's.  Three
in his garage at last count.  We don't get along too well.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) DS Adventure
Date: 08 Mar 1999 23:48:52 -0800

KLRists-  For those of you who enjoyed reading my Death Valley riding
adventure, I'm currently working on a written account of my latest dual
sport ride with some fellow KLRists.  And what an adventure it was!  More
than I bargained for, that's for sure.  Anyway I'll be submitting it for
exclusive publishing in Gino's DSN newsletter (if he accepts it).  If you
haven't subscribed yet, I would encourage you to do so.  It's a fine rag
that's chock full of useful information and probably still in its infancy.
Darrel
A12 "avenger"




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) DS Adventure
Date: 09 Mar 1999 12:50:55 -0700

>>Anyway I'll be submitting it for
exclusive publishing in Gino's DSN newsletter (if he accepts it).<<

Hey, I'm easy... as far as accepting stuff for the DSN.  Just send it in
with some pics.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 09 Mar 1999 15:28:59 -0500

I heard at Daytona (walking around listening to scuttlebutt) that the
new Harley motors (the twin cam 88's) are NOT to be serviced by HD
dealers. Any engine related service calls are to be sent back to the
factory for evaluation and the customer will rec'v a *new* crate motor
under waranty. Anybody else heard this? Seems extreme but the engine is
in its infancy...

Saw a LOT of Harleys roadside with heads (the drivers) in engines that
week. Wonder what they were all fixin/cussin?

Jake in Jacksonville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 09 Mar 1999 15:39:22 -0700

    I read in Rider? that Harley has a new program for rebuilding Evo
engines. When the engine gets to that point the dealer sends it to the
factory instead of rebuilding it himself. There it gets refurbished to
factory specs. It costs about 2 grand.  Bogdan
. Any engine related service calls are to be sent back to the
    factory for evaluation and the customer will rec'v a *new* crate
motor




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Buying a new bike
Date: 09 Mar 1999 18:37:20 -0500

I found a really good page for pricing bikes (assuming they are correct
prices).  I was surprised to find out a 1998 KLR650 is only worth 2600$US as
a trade in and then sold at 4000$US.
Stephen Rivett




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Buying a used bike
Date: 09 Mar 1999 18:46:05 -0500

I think I've gone crazy, anyway, here's the link http://www.kbb.com

-----Original Message-----


>I found a really good page for pricing bikes (assuming they are correct
>prices).  I was surprised to find out a 1998 KLR650 is only worth 2600$US
as
>a trade in and then sold at 4000$US.
>Stephen Rivett
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Buying a new bike
Date: 09 Mar 1999 16:41:56 -0700

Well I bought my new '98 KLR at $3533US new in '98 so I'd say that price was
a little optimistic for a one year old bike.

Cheers,

Vik

-----Original Message-----


>I found a really good page for pricing bikes (assuming they are correct
>prices).  I was surprised to find out a 1998 KLR650 is only worth 2600$US
as
>a trade in and then sold at 4000$US.
>Stephen Rivett
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Dakar F650 in BMW ON Magazine....
Date: 09 Mar 1999 18:44:48 EST

Just checked out the article on the Dakar winning F650 in BMW ON magazine.
75hp, 112 mph top speed. Doesn't look anything like an F650 though. Has
Acerbis handguards and dual headlight setup, and a huge skid plate and extra
large tanks for gas. This brought a question to my mind. Do the other
manufacturers such as KTM & Yamaha change their bikes this much, or do they
try and compete with them relatively stock? I noticed that a KTM was only a
little over 4 minutes behind the winning F650. They've got pictures in BMW ON
of a rider jumping over sand dunes on the Dakar bike. Pretty cool for a
Beemer....Even if they did come out with a Dakar version of the F650 though,
it'd probably cost twice as much $ as a nicely equipped KLR. Sure would be
nice to get 75hp out of the Moose; but it wheelies with a throttle crack now
(Dynojet/K&N/Supertrapp), handles & rides great  (Progressives), and I can
ride it all day down an Interstate. Not too shabby for the cash invested....

Yup,

Bill Swindle
A12 "Moose"
Montgomery, Il.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dakar F650 in BMW ON Magazine....
Date: 09 Mar 1999 16:55:23 -0700

If an authentic F650 Dakar Replica (suspension, tank and 75bhp engine) were
sold for twice the cost of a KLR it would be a killer deal and well worth
it.  Sort of a moot argument as I imagine the only thing we'd see that came
from the Dakar bike would likely be a set of decals!

Cheers,

Vik

-----Original Message-----


>Just checked out the article on the Dakar winning F650 in BMW ON magazine.
>75hp, 112 mph top speed. Doesn't look anything like an F650 though. Has
>Acerbis handguards and dual headlight setup, and a huge skid plate and
extra
>large tanks for gas. This brought a question to my mind. Do the other
>manufacturers such as KTM & Yamaha change their bikes this much, or do they
>try and compete with them relatively stock? I noticed that a KTM was only a
>little over 4 minutes behind the winning F650. They've got pictures in BMW
ON
>of a rider jumping over sand dunes on the Dakar bike. Pretty cool for a
>Beemer....Even if they did come out with a Dakar version of the F650
though,
>it'd probably cost twice as much $ as a nicely equipped KLR. Sure would be
>nice to get 75hp out of the Moose; but it wheelies with a throttle crack
now
>(Dynojet/K&N/Supertrapp), handles & rides great  (Progressives), and I can
>ride it all day down an Interstate. Not too shabby for the cash
invested....
>
>Yup,
>
>Bill Swindle
>A12 "Moose"
>Montgomery, Il.
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jean Philippe Bagel <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) The stock light just stinks!
Date: 09 Mar 1999 16:40:20 -0800

Hi all,

Last Saturday I went riding for hours, and had to come back in the early
evening. Granted the road I was going thru was pretty deep in woods, but I
could not see anything. Boy was it an unpleasant experience...

Some people have mentioned a 80/100 bulb, right? Fred do you carry it, and
what's the price? Any opinion to share on this?

-JP



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 09 Mar 1999 19:49:02 EST

In a message dated 3/9/99 2:23:56 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Saw a LOT of Harleys roadside with heads (the drivers) in engines that
 week. Wonder what they were all fixin/cussin? >>
Last Sturgis I did back in 76 there was a billboard in town that said "Harley
riders stay to the right, do the best you can".Not  a slam, just reporting a
humorous observation.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Buy American ?
Date: 09 Mar 1999 19:41:41 EST

In a message dated 3/9/99 1:00:34 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< My hobby was buying a car, fixing it up, cruise it for a while, sell it,
and
 buy another.  The time I spent on this hobby was therapy, and kept me out of
 trouble >>
I can't see why the author has to justify his opinion to anyone on this or any
other list!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 09 Mar 1999 16:55:07 -0800

Darrel, fellow Listers
I need your advice.  My wife has purchased a motorcycle.  This may not
strike folks as odd, however she has always avoided mine as if it were a
coiled rattlesnake.  I guess the upcoming trip to Moab and the amount of
time I have spent over the last couple of years with my bike were enough to
sway her.  I am still not sure.
First, the bike. We found a brand new Honda CT90 trail bike, its a 78 with
200 miles on it.  I figured it would be a good bike to get started on. Step
through frame, light weight, centrifugal clutch, yellow, I know I can get my
money out of it if we decided to sell it.  It is also street legal, although
I wouldn't ride it on the freeway.  So far the bike is cute and not
intimidating for her.
Second, She has never even ridden on a motorcycle, let alone driven one!  I
have enough respect for my wife and her temper ( six foot tall Irish
descended REDHEAD) to know better than to try to teach her how to ride it
myself.  I recall when we were at the Del Mar Mile race you mentioned you
taught a motorcycle safety course in Oxnard.  I was hoping you might have an
address or phone number of someone in this area who taught a similar course
that might be up to a challenge.
Thirdly.  Even though Killarney (that would be the wife) continues to remind
me that I already know everything, I would not mind taking the course
myself.  If for no other reason than to reduce my insurance rates (however I
am sure it would be very beneficial for me as well, just don't let her know
that).  Would you recommend separate courses or is there a course that comes
with a marriage counselor!
Fourth.  There might be a DSN article here if I live to tell about it.  THIS
IS A MAJOR DEPARTURE FROM THE NORM FOR THIS HOUSEHOLD.  Any advice or
suggestions welcome here.  Also any support from our female listers is more
than welcome.
Morgan
moving into a whole new phase in his life




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) The stock light just stinks!
Date: 09 Mar 1999 16:59:35 -0800

I put a 100/110 bulb in mine.  Works great.  Its illegal, but who cares.
I'd rather be an outlaw than dead.  What made even more of a difference was
adjusting it properly.  The bulb is a standard H-4 type bulb, widely
available. You bet Fred has em.
Morgan
"DO YOU SEE THE LIGHT"




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) The stock light just stinks!
Date: 09 Mar 1999 20:11:17 EST

In a message dated 3/9/99 4:42:11 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

> Some people have mentioned a 80/100 bulb, right? Fred do you carry it, and
>  what's the price? Any opinion to share on this?

I use a 55/100 watt bulb.  I like using the standard wattage low beam since
that puts no strain on the electrical system during normal daylight running.
I have heard of fuses blowing with the 100 watt high beam but I have had no
problems.
Kurt Grife



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) UltraII
Date: 09 Mar 1999 20:15:01 -0500

At 08:06 PM 3/8/99 -0800, Marick Payton wrote:
>I've been mulling over the choice between the Motoport Ultra II and
>the Darien.  The Ultra II does sound like the ultimate in protection
>and better for hot weather.  But, how well does that removable
>waterprood liner work?  It is a hassle to put on when that sudden shower
>surprises you?  Does it make the jacket realllllly hot during a summer
>rain?  What's it like to have the whole outer shell soaked?

Marick,
Re the Motoport Ultra II - Here in humid Florida, the idea is not to wear
the inner waterproof liner during a summer rain.  A little moisture comes
through, but then when the sun comes out again the water dries and wicks
outward, cooling the rider.  In a cold steady rain, the liner warms and
protects the rider from getting chilled and wet.

In the few times I've worn the liner, I don't bother to zip it to the pants
and jacket.  Works fine.

The design philosophy of the Motoport departs from conventional thinking,
and IMHO is effective.  Tom Jamrog has a detailed evaluation of the
Motoport used to ride from Maine to Alaska at
http://www.midcoast.com/~balrog/bike/aritcles/Motoport_Suit_Prod_Review.txt

Tom's opinion swayed me, because I wasn't crazy about "sealing myself up"
in a fabric that could not breathe.  Most Cordura fabrics are coated with
sealer, and in the case of my Joe Rocket jacket, made hot sweaty spots.
The Motoport gets hot at a standstill, of course, but the ventilation
system is adjustable and well designed.

Motoport honors their two year warranty.  I had some minor complaints about
the liner fraying where it rubbed against Motoport's own Ultra II pants, so
they are putting in a solid piece liner below the waist.  I tend to be
rough on clothes, so you might not have the same problem.

Stuart
KLR A12
Juno Beach, FL




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) The stock light just stinks!
Date: 09 Mar 1999 18:18:35 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Hi all,
>
>Last Saturday I went riding for hours, and had to come back in the early
>evening. Granted the road I was going thru was pretty deep in woods, but I
>could not see anything. Boy was it an unpleasant experience...
>
>Some people have mentioned a 80/100 bulb, right? Fred do you carry it, and
>what's the price? Any opinion to share on this?
>
>-JP
>
>

Hello,

Check out items 145 to 151 on my KLR parts list @
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/page2.html

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric West <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Robert Morgan's ??
Date: 09 Mar 1999 19:17:37 -0600

Check out the web at  msf-usa.org  for a list of available sites by state. =
 After teaching about 110 of these beginner classes,  I can say that I've =
never had an experienced rider take the class who didn't need it and learn =
from it. (save the flames-I'm sure YOU would be the first)  I have had =
many couples in the same situation-man is long time rider, woman wants to =
get started-who had a great time taking the course together.  For your own =
peace I suggest you DON"T comment on your ladies riding OR give coaching =
tips during the course.  It is probably the best performance/$ gain you'll =
make.
Eric West
MSF Instructor
Amarillo, TX





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 09 Mar 1999 20:21:45 -0500

At 07:06 AM 3/9/99 -0700, Pokluda, Gino F wrote:
>Andy asks:
>>Dare I ask what your views are on Harley's???????????
>>Coming from England I'd be interested in how they are viewed over there.

>I have owned two Harleys.  They were cool, neat and all hat stuff.  But just
>not worth the money.  I'll take my Virago anyday.

Gino,

Forbes Magazine confirms that Harleys shake, rattle and leak oil.
So why ride them?
As a, er, die hard Harley rider said, "You get laid."

Stuart



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 09 Mar 1999 20:25:15 +0000

Tom Simpson wrote:
>
> >Andy asks:
> >>Dare I ask what your views are on Harley's???????????
> >>
> >>Coming from England I'd be interested in how they are viewed over there.
>
>         My perspective: Whelp, the build quality is there, at least in terms of
> fit and finish, Paint is beautiful. You have probably figured that much.
>
>         As for living with one...well, the last Harley I was on was my dad's '64
> XLCH Sportster, up on the tank in front of him, doing about 105 down a
> country road. I was about five...
>
>         But aside from that, well, it can be hard to say just how good a bike they
> actualy are because most of the folks that own them seem to put few miles
> on them. Many of their owners claim excelent service, but then they might
> have 5 year old bikes that have 6,000 miles on them. Its weird. It is often
> observed that many Harley owners realy arent interested in owning a
> motorcycle but rather are buying into a lifestyle, a state of mind, a
> myth...whatever.
>
>         I did manage to sit down and talk with a group of aviation mechanics out
> of Atlanta at a motorcycle campground. They were on big touring bikes that
> averaged about five years old and 35,000-50,000 miles on the clock, so for
> once I had some Harley people that were qualified to tell me what the deal
> was. They reported what sounded like what struck me as a somewhat excessive
> number of mechancal problems, but overall they seemed to be holding up OK.
> Its not like jumping on some Honda hydraulic-valved inline four (ultra-low
> maintenece) but they were decent.
>
>         I'll stick with my KLR, thenk you.
>
> -Tom
> '96 KLR 650
> 32,000 miles

If I may Simpson, I'd like to add something,

The Sportster was the American answer to the Triumph/BSA/Royal
Enfield/Norton era (Andy have you ever been to any of the old works?)
and was obviously a winner having continued in production since around
'57.  It's common knowledge that the technological developments on
Harleys in general have been tremendous in the last decade since AMF got
out of the house and Willy and the folks greatly improved their
reliability and performance.  Harley is in a trip all it's own and they
are the ones that every V-Twin manufacturer can't avoid being compared
to.  I salute the loyal Harley faithful who did stay with their brand
throughout the rough years.  The oldest Sportster I ever got a chance to
ride was a '59, but I owned British and Japanese machines.  So this
XL883 will be my first that I actually own.  I see a huge marketing
success going on right now by Harley that is capitalizing on a group of
what I consider to be "week-end enthusiasts" who have the coin to buy
into the image but aren't the image.  Nobody in their right mind would
remotely think of going to a Harley fashion show 25 years ago.  Harley
fashion was anti-establishment man!  And if you paid a ton of coin for
anything other than the bike you were an idiot.  Excuse me for venting,
but I'm keeping my KLR, and getting a Sportster because I always wanted
one...period.  The FLH, etc.. are nice, expensive, and way to heavy for
my taste.  I've always liked the Triumph/Sportster size machines.  Any
thing bigger and I get the VW Cabrio.

Ah but I do miss the sweet smell of chain case oil burning from a Bonny
under hard acceleration or the sudden feel of a sledge hammer pouding my
foot from the rebounding kickstarter on a 55 inch!  The "Good Old Days".

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 10 Mar 1999 01:22:41 +0000

> Second, She has never even ridden on a motorcycle, let alone driven one!  I
> have enough respect for my wife and her temper ( six foot tall Irish
> descended REDHEAD) to know better than to try to teach her how to ride it
> myself.  I recall when we were at the Del Mar Mile race you mentioned you
> taught a motorcycle safety course in Oxnard.  I was hoping you might have an
> address or phone number of someone in this area who taught a similar course
> that might be up to a challenge.

1-800-CC-RIDER is the california motorcyclist safety class number.

http://www.msf-usa.org/ seems to be the website of choice.


>  Would you recommend separate courses or is there a course that comes
> with a marriage counselor!

I personally would recommend separate courses. I had a boyfriend show up to
take pictures as I attempted to learn to execute a turn on the little course
bike. Nearly wiped out and practically physically threw him out of the county.
It's hard enough learning certain things (like if I lean this rather precarious
little machine while traveling forward at 25 mph and push the handlebars so the
wheel is pointing in the *wrong* direction, and keep the clutch covered, and
make sure I can get the brakes, but remember that if the bike is leaned then
it's not the optimal contact patch and i shouldn't use the brakes, oh geez, i'm
supposed to accelerate through the turn, wait a minute, should I care if
someone's watching me?) without other distractions. However, a friend of mine
also took the class with his girlfriend, and he said it was fine. (I've never
heard about it from _her_ and she's never ridden since, but she was never into
bikes that much to begin with...)

> Also any support from our female listers is more
> than welcome.

I know I had been brainwashed from birth to believe that motorcycles are
inherently evil. A couple of people let me ride on the back of theirs (when I
had no other way to get home) and I realized that I wasn't dead. So they
weren't totally evil. Then, while I was in Patras, I rented a scooter with some
traveling buddies. That day driving around the winding roads, I realized that
I wanted to be able to shift. (and that a helmet, while making me feel less
free, would probably be a _really_ good idea) And now i have no vehicle other
than my motorcycles. (And really wet boots after this morning's commute) So
make sure your wife takes the wee little steps she needs to figure out if this
is really for her. But it may very well turn out that she loves it as much as
you. :)

>
> Morgan
> moving into a whole new phase in his life

Good luck! We're rootin for ya...

Sarah

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) UltraII
Date: 09 Mar 1999 20:31:01 -0500

OOPS:
Tom Jamrog's Motoport Review is at
>http://www.midcoast.com/~balrog/bike/articles/Motoport_Suit_Prod_Review.txt

>Stuart
>KLR A12
>Juno Beach, FL




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Gas Seepage
Date: 09 Mar 1999 20:32:04 -0500

Went into the shed to get the dremmel for somethin' and smelled gas.  Under
the KLR (A4) was a small puddle.  It's freezin cold & snowin so I didn't
have time to check everything out, but it's looks like it was drippin (real
slowly) off the bottom of the carb & bowl screws. Never had a leak before.
The only thing different is that I dumped some stabil into the gas a week or
so ago and ran it into the carb. It hasnt been cold enough for gas to freeze
or anything  Could that stuff be workin on a seal somewhere?  Im not overly
worried as I'm gonna pull it apart to jet this spring anyway, but any ideas
on why it would just start leaking?

BG




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 09 Mar 1999 17:41:49 -0800


Killarney (that would be the wife)


This part would make me feel uncomfortable...

Arne (still alive)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Buying a used bike
Date: 09 Mar 1999 20:38:53 -0500

Another source for prices for used bikes is the AMA.  They
sell a booklet that gives prices.  The Motorcycle Consumers'
News (MCN) carries the AMA's price list 4 times per year.

The current MCN price list is available on-line at:

http://www.mcnews.com/articles/kawa.htm

I've looked at the Kelly's Blue Book (kbb) site a few times.
I find that the prices that they show don't accurately reflect,
in my experience, market prices for some bikes.  For example,
the KLR650 prices are much too low.  The MCN/AMA prices
seem to be more in line with market prices.

On the other hand, for BMW's the kbb prices seem higher than
I've seen (and purchased) old beemers.

Harleys, of course, are very high in price across the board.

Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio

-----Original Message-----


>I think I've gone crazy, anyway, here's the link http://www.kbb.com
>>I found a really good page for pricing bikes (assuming they are correct
>>prices).  I was surprised to find out a 1998 KLR650 is only worth 2600$US
>as a trade in and then sold at 4000$US.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gas Seepage
Date: 09 Mar 1999 17:49:35 -0800

My only experience with that gas stabilizer stuff is with my infrequently
used chainsaw.  I put some in it.  It dissolved the fuel pickup line in the
gas tank.  It has not run since. Good luck.
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR lighting
Date: 09 Mar 1999 20:21:03 -0000

Lotso lighting info here: http://lighting.mbz.org/ of particular interest
may be this guys writings on the HID "conversion" kits, PIAA "Super White"
bulbs, and more.

I've got some stuff at my page at:  www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz , and Vik,
I'm changing that pic description tonight! ;)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR emblem
Date: 09 Mar 1999 18:23:36 -0800

Hey Listers,

I saw a '96 KLR 650 today at a dealers.  Only 650 kilometers on it - looked
almost new except for a little scratching on the right side hand-guard -
probably from branches.  The other anomaly was the missing "R" on the right
side of the bike and the missing "K" on the left side.  You know, the large
"KLR" that spans the tank/cowling?  The dealer figured this was from gas
spillage.  As there is no clear coating over the emblem portion on the
cowling, as there is on the metal tank, he figured that spilled gas lifted
the emblem.  This looks possible, as there are no scratches or damage to the
cowling.

Any one else found this to be the case?

Arne (not of the kill variety)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Conall O'Brien)
Subject: (klr650) Re: UltraII
Date: 09 Mar 1999 18:32:47 -0800 (PST)

Marick-
I don't have the waterproof liner from motoport for the ultraII jacket.
Prior to buying the UltraII, I bought a one pc. rain suit which I wear
underneath the jacket. For cold weather I layer a fleece jacket along
with several shirts.
As far as rain just rolling off the jacket, yes perhaps when the jacket
is new, but after several washes it's effectiveness diminishes.
It still takes an extremely heavy downpour to soak the jacket however.
I've had the jacket over 2 yrs. now and no problems.

Conall




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Dual Sport Side Hacks
Date: 09 Mar 1999 21:39:25 +0000

And just when we thought we saw everything.....

Check out the pics on this site!
http://www.sidecarcross.com/dualsport/

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 09 Mar 1999 21:07:16 -0600

Sarah Barwig wrote:

> ...I had been brainwashed from birth to believe that motorcycles are
> inherently evil...



Ah, yes, I remember when sex was safe and motorcycles were dangerous...


phil



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 09 Mar 1999 22:17:22 -0500

http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesdavis/DISCUSS.html

This website would be a good place to start, it will teach the theory of how
to crash a bike the right way and not get hurt...not to mention a whole lot
of other things.  I've found it helpful because I'm the first person in my
family to buy a bike and had nobody to teach me.  The guy I bought the bike
off of told me I was going to kill myself on it but I haven't yet :)


-----Original Message-----


>Darrel, fellow Listers
I recall when we were at the Del Mar Mile race you mentioned you
>taught a motorcycle safety course in Oxnard.  I was hoping you might have
an
>address or phone number of someone in this area who taught a similar course
>that might be up to a challenge.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) The stock light just stinks!
Date: 09 Mar 1999 22:28:08 EST

In a message dated 3/9/99 5:42:11 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Some people have mentioned a 80/100 bulb, right? Fred do you carry it, and
 what's the price? Any opinion to share on this? >>

I would go with the 50/100.  That way, when you are just idling around, you
won't have that 80w low beam sucking the life out of your battery.  With the
50/100 (I run this) you get a nice bright high beam the really gets things
bright.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 09 Mar 1999 22:32:48 EST

In a message dated 3/9/99 6:21:31 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< As a, er, die hard Harley rider said, "You get laid." >>

Hey, I'm married.  I get plenty of that... NOT.  Just kidding, Hun.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jarrett and Cindy Lambert" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 09 Mar 1999 21:46:48 -0800


-----Original Message-----



>First, the bike. We found a brand new Honda CT90 trail bike, its a 78 with
>200 miles on it.  I figured it would be a good bike to get started on. Step
>through frame, light weight, centrifugal clutch, yellow, I know I can get
my
>money out of it if we decided to sell it.  It is also street legal,
although
>I wouldn't ride it on the freeway.  So far the bike is cute and not
>intimidating for her.
>



I have a 78 Trail 90 with less than 600 miles that has been sitting in my
garage for some time.  It needs a little bit of work, but should be easy to
get running.  Can anyone give me an idea of the value of this bike?


Jarrett




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR emblem
Date: 09 Mar 1999 21:40:08 -0800



----------
> From: Arne Larsen <[e-mail]>
>
> Hey Listers,
>
> I saw a '96 KLR 650 today at a dealers.  Only 650 kilometers on it -
looked
> almost new except for a little scratching on the right side hand-guard -
> probably from branches.  The other anomaly was the missing "R" on the
right
> side of the bike and the missing "K" on the left side.  You know, the
large
> "KLR" that spans the tank/cowling?  The dealer figured this was from gas
> spillage.  As there is no clear coating over the emblem portion on the
> cowling, as there is on the metal tank, he figured that spilled gas
lifted
> the emblem.  This looks possible, as there are no scratches or damage to
the
> cowling.
>
Hey Arne,

Could be that somebody replaced the original side cowls with new ones,
perhaps after some damage.  I think that if you were to order replacement
cowls from Kawasaki they would come without the stickers on it.  I bet the
stickers probably cost more than the plastic, so it would probably an easy
decision to order it without the stickers.  If the gas theory is true, I
would expect that there would be some staining on the plastic (if it was
strong enough to remove the stickers).  Just my guess.

Carlos



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 09 Mar 1999 19:53:58 -0800


>First, the bike. We found a brand new Honda CT90 trail bike, its a 78 with
>200 miles on it.  I figured it would be a good bike to get started on. Step
>through frame, light weight, centrifugal clutch, yellow, I know I can get
my
>money out of it if we decided to sell it.  It is also street legal,
although
>I wouldn't ride it on the freeway.  So far the bike is cute and not
>intimidating for her.


My buddy had one of those for getting around town.  If I recall, he got
around 80 MPG with it.  He could take his on the highway, back when the
speed limit was still the double nickel, as long as he was drafting a semi.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 09 Mar 1999 22:30:29 EST

In a message dated 3/9/99 6:03:55 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< There might be a DSN article here if I live to tell about it.  THIS
 IS A MAJOR DEPARTURE FROM THE NORM FOR THIS HOUSEHOLD.  Any advice or
 suggestions welcome here.  Also any support from our female listers is more
 than welcome.
 Morgan >>

Is your will in good order.  Notify your next of kin too. I strongly suggest
she take a MSF course first. They provide the hardware and gear.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Robert Morgan's ??
Date: 09 Mar 1999 20:08:54 -0800

 I have had many couples in the same situation-man is long time rider, woman
wants to get started-who had a great time taking the course together.  For
your own peace I suggest you DON"T comment on your ladies riding OR give
coaching tips during the course.  It is probably the best performance/$ gain
you'll make.
Eric West
MSF Instructor
Amarillo, TX


Here here, leave it to the pros.  Just make sure that she has a good time
riding, so she wants to keep it up.

Jeff






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Leslie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR emblem
Date: 10 Mar 1999 23:06:08 -0500

I think that if you were to order replacement cowls from Kawasaki they would
come without the stickers on it.  I bet the stickers probably cost more than
the plastic, so it would probably an easy decision to order it without the
stickers.    Carlos

The stock "OEM" cowls for the KLR are about $65 US....I decided to use stay
ties on mine instead......Stickers from Tapeworks are about $15...much
cheaper...Les




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 09 Mar 1999 08:12:44 -0800


Morgan-  Congrats on your wife's new bike.  You are a lucky man to be able
to enjoy this sport with your best friend on seperate bikes.  The Honda
Trail 90 sounds like a good introductory machine.  I teach the beginner
safety course at the naval base free of charge, but unfortunately I can only
teach employees and their family members.  No need to fret though, just call
800 CC-RIDER for the nearest Calif. training site.  If you haven't taken the
basic course I would encourage you to take it regardless of how long you've
been riding.  I always hear experienced riders say that they benefit from
it.  I've never had a married couple in one of my classes, but I've heard
from another instructor that it can be difficult.  If you two decide to take
the same class, I would suggest not trying to coach her during the course.
Also strongly recommend the Experienced Rider Course.  In fact it's been way
too long since I've taken it.  Time to sign up again.  Darrel







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gas Seepage
Date: 09 Mar 1999 20:18:06 -0800



>My only experience with that gas stabilizer stuff is with my infrequently
>used chainsaw.  I put some in it.  It dissolved the fuel pickup line in the
>gas tank.  It has not run since. Good luck.
>Morgan
>
>
I put it in my boat's tank at the end of every ski season, after topping the
tank off.  I have managed to successfully run that gas out the next season,
but mostly I will siphon all of that gas out and burn it in my cars,
motorcycle, lawnmower, whatever.  I refuse to take chances with my
high-compression marine engine, and I have noticed no adverse affects in the
cars.  The reason that keep the tank full of gas over the winter is because
there would be a huge condensation problem in the tank if I didn't.  Anyway,
I haven't noticed any problems with using Stabil, as long as its mixed in
the right ratio.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR emblem
Date: 09 Mar 1999 23:27:19 -0500

The side panels are really easy to rip off riding in the woods.  The little
plastic tabs molded into them that hold them on the bike break.  I just
zip-tied mine back on the bike rather than buy new ones. Good as new now! -Tim
Bootle






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Spotting
Date: 09 Mar 1999 20:04:41 -0800

A link for the adventure tourers among us.  A Canadian couple on a 12 year +
world tour on a heavily modified BMW R100GS.

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/

Cheers,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR emblem
Date: 09 Mar 1999 21:02:45 -0800



>Now I know what's bothering me about this one...how much gas can you
>spill in 650 km ???  What's that...one or 2 tank fill-ups ???
>
>Aproach with CAUTION, I think !!
>
>phil


Good point..  maybe the guy filled it from a distance??? (kidding)
And if it was gas, why both sides???  Maybe he spilled it so bad from the
left side on his first fill, that he decided that he'd try the right the
second time - with equally poor results.

But the handgrips and levers didn't look "new".  They looked a couple years
old but hardly used (if you know what I mean.  And everything looked
straight.  The seat wasn't ripped.

It's a mystery Charlie Brown...

Thanks Phil,

Arne





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR emblem
Date: 09 Mar 1999 21:06:43 -0800

Ya, but it's not the cowl that's missing, but the emblem that is supposed to
be on the cowl... Hmmmm.

Arne


-----Original Message-----
Cc: KLR650 List <[e-mail]>


>The side panels are really easy to rip off riding in the woods.  The little
>plastic tabs molded into them that hold them on the bike break.  I just
>zip-tied mine back on the bike rather than buy new ones. Good as new
now! -Tim
>Bootle
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) . . . stinks
Date: 09 Mar 1999 21:27:05 PST

I second the 50/100 watt headlight.  The 100 really lights up the
road but it too bright for night driving in traffic.  Very
irritating to the vehicle in front.

Marick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Oil leak
Date: 10 Mar 1999 04:23:02 EST

My trusty 1990 KLR650 has decided to leak oil out of the rubber plug on the
engine casing above the sidestand.  Reinstalled the plug still leaking, is
there anything internal that may have gone south to cause this, any
suggestions.
It's starting to remind me of my old Norton with the oil puddle under the
bike.

Larry



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Harley question
Date: 10 Mar 1999 04:25:02 EST

In a message dated 99-03-09 20:16:27 EST, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

<< Exactly.  And I want to know, if the image is to be this "rebel" type, then
 why do they all wear the same uniform? >>

You mean like sport bike riders or like us dirt bikers?

<<My thinking is that engineering should always be progressing and improving.
In design and manufacturing processes.  It shouldn't remain static...>>

How many years is it now they've been making the KLR?

It's amazing to me that just mentioning  Harley Davidson brings out the bike
bigots.
Ranaldo
                By the way, Jeff, I hope that test  you were studying for
wasn't one for sanity. :)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Harley question
Date: 10 Mar 1999 01:53:34 -0800

><< Exactly.  And I want to know, if the image is to be this "rebel" type,
then
> why do they all wear the same uniform? >>
>
>You mean like sport bike riders or like us dirt bikers?


There is a difference between gear that is going to save your bacon from
getting fried on the pavement and melon from getting squashed and fashion
just to look cool.

><<My thinking is that engineering should always be progressing and
improving.
>In design and manufacturing processes.  It shouldn't remain static...>>
>
>How many years is it now they've been making the KLR?
>
I didn't pay an large chunk of change for my KLR though.  Besides that,
compare the KLR to HD's single dual sport, when they made it, and compare
the engineering.

>It's amazing to me that just mentioning  Harley Davidson brings out the
bike
>bigots.

Hey, I've got a biker for a brother in law, and him and I have gotten to
blows more than a few times over my "Jap trash rice burner, made by workers
for fish heads and rice for pay"  His words, not mine.  I had no
preconceived notions about his Harley, until I rode it and hated it.

>Ranaldo
>                By the way, Jeff, I hope that test  you were studying for
>wasn't one for sanity. :)
>
Tell you the truth, I have been a little unbalanced ever since 93 in
Somalia, but I'm much better now!

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dale Borgeson <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (NKLR) Wife on Wheels
Date: 10 Mar 1999 07:14:35 -0600 (CST)

I'm also an MSF instructor and have had many husband/wife teams take the
RSS. Most get along, some don't. I think that it depends on their
relationship and the reason that the wife is taking the course.

It usually seems that if taking the course was the wife's idea and the
husband is along for support (also the wife's idea) then everything works
well. If the above is not the situation then often there's trouble.

Cheers
--
Dale Borgeson    [e-mail]    Minneapolis, MN U.S.A.
"Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) New Nolan N100
Date: 10 Mar 1999 06:52:13 -0700

Someone asked me a couple days ago about the new Nolan N100 that costs about
$50.00 more.  It is the Nolan N100 Classic.  It is the same as the old style
N100 except that the sideplates and air wing are the same color as the
helmet instead of black.

By the way, I broke a side plate on mine and was surprised to find that the
local dealer actually had replacements in stock!

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) C'mon...
Date: 10 Mar 1999 06:25:47 PST

Someone wrote:

"By the way, Jeff, I hope that test you were studying for
wasn't one for sanity. :)"

C'mon man, there's no need to get personal (smiley face or no).  Your
e-mail had me thinking until I got to this part.  I'm sure I'm not the
only one you lost with that comment.  Keep it relevant (which you had up
until that point), keep it witty, make it irreverent too, but keep it
courteous.  The list seems to be in a slump lately in this regard.

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 10 Mar 1999 07:58:42 -0700

    While we're on sensitive subjects, where's my issue of DSN? Did
anybody else get theirs? Gino, did you get my renewal check? Should I take
this personally?
    Bogdan, Deprived (Not sexually, the word there would be depraved) in
Colorado.

    Hey, I'm married.  I get plenty of that... NOT.  Just kidding, Hun.

    Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil leak
Date: 11 Mar 1999 01:57:42 +1000

[e-mail] wrote:

> My trusty 1990 KLR650 has decided to leak oil out of the rubber plug on the
> engine casing above the sidestand.  Reinstalled the plug still

Sounds like the little O-ring on the balancer chain adjuster bolt has
failed somehow.
I don't know about 650s, but on my 600 it's quite safe to remove the
bolt, replace the O-ring and refit the bolt.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Polston, Doug" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Shipping a KLR
Date: 10 Mar 1999 09:03:56 -0600

Has anyone had any experience in shipping a motorcycle. I brought a KLR
about a month ago, but it is in Maryland (at my brother house) and I'm
in Kansas. He and I can't not seem to find a good time to meet.

I check with Federal (AMA endorsed) and the cost was going to be $426.
That seems pretty high.

Has anyone used anyone else?


Doug




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) To: "'[e-mail]'" <[e-mail]>
Date: 10 Mar 1999 08:18:50 -0700

On this issue of wives ridding, some of us ride to GET AWAY from our wives.
Take my wife as Heny Youngman would say. She's 16 years my junior. (Woman
love old bald guys; not that trendy shaved head look but the timeless "wide
part" sported by Socrates, Winston Churchill & Larry Stooge.) Being young,
she isn't mature enough to appreciate Speedvision or Boxing. She makes me
suffer through Titanic or recently Elizabeth. To give her credit, she did
bring home The Big Labowski. Anyway, sometimes absence (not abstinence)
make's the heart grow fonder.  Bogdan



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: John Tranter <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) wife's first bike (NKLR)
Date: 10 Mar 1999 09:22:36 -0600

Robert Morgan wrote:
>>I need your advice.  My wife has purchased a motorcycle.

Robert, I have a Ph.D. in Counseling Psychology, yet for years I could
not find the right combination to make motorcycling fun my wife and I
together. We went through many different bikes and riding styles (e.g.
two-up sport touring, sport touring with two separate bikes, two-up dual
sport, etc.). Nothing worked; we usually just ended up mad and
frustrated. Now we have great times riding, and I think two things
contributed.

First, Sue had to feel comfortable with her own bike. We found a TW200,
a very easy-to-ride and forgiving motorcycle, and she loves it. Also, we
avoid areas that are too challenging and scary for her, whether in the
dirt or highway.

Second, I was so afraid that she was going to get hurt I couldn't enjoy
the trip. I've been riding for over 25 years and have developed a very
defensive riding style. I assume every cager is blind and stupid (and am
rarely disappointed). Sue used to ride a bike like she drove her car,
and it was making me a nervous wreck. As we began to ride together in
the less challenging areas, she began to see things like how I watched
drivers entering from side roads, and moved my foot to the brake,
preparing to stop quickly. Things like watching the driver's eyes and
noticing whether the front tires were rolling. As you know, the list
goes on, but basically, it's understanding that cagers aren't looking
for bikes, so you have to ride for yourself and the other guy. Sue said
she learned by watching what I did, and experiencing it herself (all the
conversations of explanation went nowhere). She slowly started becoming
more aware of what was going on around her and started riding more
defensively. That allowed me to enjoy the trip.

Now we are in agreement when we ride; (Can two walk <ride> together,
except they be agreed? Amos 3:3). We found a common ground for the types
of environments we ride in, and a common philosophy for riding
defensively. It worked for us.

Hope you find many years of happy and safe riding as a couple. Sorry for
being so long-winded.

John & Sue Tranter
Montgomery, AL



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: James Naus <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) UltraII - Darien
Date: 10 Mar 1999 10:33:34 -0500

I own the Darien and love it.  I would not trade it for anything.  I live in
Tallahassee, FL probably the most humid place in the country, we call it the
armpit of America.  I don't think the coating had any effect on the
breathablity of the jacket, or if you are worried about it, it seems to wear
off after a washing or two.  I have used this suit in several hour long down
pores and have stayed completely dry.  You do have to move all items out of
the outer pockets that you don't want to get wet.  It has a large zipper
across the back, large pit zips and zippers on each sleeve cuff.  The one
thing I hated before I got this suit was worrying about when to stop to put
on my rain gear or putting it on only to have it not rain and then stopping
to take it all off and then the clouds come back and then ... well you get
the idea.  Also how bulky is that jacket liner and pant liner and where do
you store it on a short ride when you don't bring your bags?  I don't know
if the prices in the review below are correct but if they are you can get
the Darien suit for $150 less.

If you get a Darien I would recommend not getting the Polartec inner jacket,
as you can get them from camping store much cheaper.  I bought 3 different
jackets from Campmor for less money and now I can wear the proper weight
jacket for different conditions.  I would also buy the optional back
protector.  Also for Florida get a light color.  I have the blue but if I
were to do it again I would get the Grey or the new Hi-Viz yellow.
James
Tallahassee, FL
'95 KLX650C




> -----Original Message-----
> From:    Stuart Heaslet [SMTP:[e-mail]]
>
> >I've been mulling over the choice between the Motoport Ultra II and
> >the Darien.  The Ultra II does sound like the ultimate in protection
> >and better for hot weather.  But, how well does that removable
> >waterprood liner work?  It is a hassle to put on when that sudden shower
> >surprises you?  Does it make the jacket realllllly hot during a summer
> >rain?  What's it like to have the whole outer shell soaked?
>
    <snip>

> Tom's opinion swayed me, because I wasn't crazy about "sealing myself up"
> in a fabric that could not breathe.  Most Cordura fabrics are coated with
> sealer, and in the case of my Joe Rocket jacket, made hot sweaty spots.
> The Motoport gets hot at a standstill, of course, but the ventilation
> system is adjustable and well designed.

    <snip>

> Stuart
> KLR A12
> Juno Beach, FL
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Yusseri Yusoff <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains?
Date: 10 Mar 1999 15:39:30 +0000 (GMT)


List,

It's time for me to change the sprocket and chains. So, I went to my
friendly local dealer to ask him of price and availability. Anyhow, he
quoted 110 pounds for a H/D O-ring with sprockets. He'll fit it for me as
well at that price.

The rub is, I can get those H/D O-rings or one of those spiffy DiD/Regina
X-rings with sprockets for about 80 pounds or less from M&P (mail-order).
I've looked through some of the mails from the archives (614 matches for
chain...) and it seems that the general concensus in the list (Tom, Fred,
Kurt, etc.) is to go for the spiffy X-ring ones. My questions are:

1. How long would a bog standard cheapo chain last? I'm asking this
because I'm probably finishing my studies (<-- read as loafing) by the end
of the year and I'd probably flog off my machine then and get another KLR
at whichever country I'm heading off to next. So, maybe it'd be a good
idea to not splash out? Having said that, I'm hoping to get the bike to
carry me to Florence (and back) in June (~2400 miles round trip). So maybe
I should splash out?

2(a) How hard is it for a relative novice to fit the chain him/her self?
It's just that I could get 'em mail-order cheaper, as explained.

2(b) What special tools do I need? Chain breaker? Any special tools to fit
the master link?

3. Am I right to say that if I were to get an endless chain, the swing-arm
has to be removed? Long operation? Not advised for butter fingers? How
great are the risks of cocking it up? I'd like to take the swingarm off
anyway, to clean the crud (as mentioned by another lister too, once).

Just thinking of the options.

As an aside, some demented spawn of the devil punched a neat little hole
on my tail light lens and blew the bulb. I was riding home from campus one
night totally oblivious to the fact that nobody could see me from
behind... Ended up contributing 13 pounds to Kawasaki for a new lens. In
the past year, I've had vomit spewed over the clocks, gear lever stomped
on til it bent, washing up liquid poured over the brake disks twice and
top box broken into and tool bag stolen. Acts of vandalism in the UK, eh?
How bad is it across the pond?

Thanks. I'll shut up now.

Yus

--
Yusseri Yusoff / [e-mail]
http://www.ee.surrey.ac.uk/showstaff?Yusoff
Centre for Vision, Speech and Signal Processing
University of Surrey
Guildford GU2 5XH




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Lock/Fork Air
Date: 10 Mar 1999 08:55:03

Hey all,

Regarding two recent List topics, I referred to the instruction sheets from
the manufacturers for my disk lock and the fork springs and came up with
this info:

1) Disk lock - put the lock on the disk and then roll the motorcycle
forward until the lock contacts the fork/brake assembly.  If one fails the
memory test there will be less dire consequences as the bike won't roll
forward.

2) Progressive fork springs - air pressure in the forks increases
"stiction" (which I believe is the less than smooth travel of the forks
throught the seals).

I liked the way the Progressives helped the front end but I'd still like to
reduce the braking dive a bit more.  As I ride exclusively on the street
and am not worried about soaking up really big bumps, I intend to lengthen
the spring spacers from the current 4.75" to about 5.25".  I think this
will get me more of what I'm looking for rather than changing from 10w to
15w fork oil.  If you've played around with fork oil weight or spring
spacer length before please share your experience with me.

Thanks,

Guy Cheny




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RE: Dare I ask (no KLR content)
Date: 10 Mar 1999 09:09:59 -0700

>>While we're on sensitive subjects, where's my issue of DSN? Did
anybody else get theirs? Gino, did you get my renewal check? Should I take
this personally?<<

They went out on Thursday.  I'll make sure you are on the mailed list.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 11 Mar 1999 03:23:29 +1000

Yo Listers,
Now that I've lashed out and bought a Dynojet kit in anticipation of
some mixture correction on Big Red, I'm wondering if there are any
600-mounted users of DJ kits out there who might want to share jet
settings?

Which reminds me, the crowd in the minilist (cars, I know) have created
a user submitted list of mods and SU carby needle settings that owners
have successfully used.

Is there a place for a similar list here somewhere?
Considering the comparitively few internal engine mods we make, we're
not as much into different cams and head mods, such a list could be
a simple tabulation of carby jet settings along with some basic info on
airbox and exhaust mods or brands, even altitiude if it's significant.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: Re: (klr650) Harley question
Date: 10 Mar 1999 11:25:48 -0500

I have nothing against Harleys. In fact, I kinda like my friend's '98
Sportster (not bad at $7,200). But I just wanna add that in general, Harley
riders are the biggest bunch of conformist non-conformists I've ever seen.
Mark
B2
A2

At 1:53 AM 3/10/99, Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:
>><< Exactly.  And I want to know, if the image is to be this "rebel" type,
>then
>> why do they all wear the same uniform? >>
>>
>>You mean like sport bike riders or like us dirt bikers?
>
>
>There is a difference between gear that is going to save your bacon from
>getting fried on the pavement and melon from getting squashed and fashion
>just to look cool.
>
>><<My thinking is that engineering should always be progressing and
>improving.
>>In design and manufacturing processes.  It shouldn't remain static...>>
>>
>>How many years is it now they've been making the KLR?
>>
>I didn't pay an large chunk of change for my KLR though.  Besides that,
>compare the KLR to HD's single dual sport, when they made it, and compare
>the engineering.
>
>>It's amazing to me that just mentioning  Harley Davidson brings out the
>bike
>>bigots.
>
>Hey, I've got a biker for a brother in law, and him and I have gotten to
>blows more than a few times over my "Jap trash rice burner, made by workers
>for fish heads and rice for pay"  His words, not mine.  I had no
>preconceived notions about his Harley, until I rode it and hated it.
>
>>Ranaldo
>>                By the way, Jeff, I hope that test  you were studying for
>>wasn't one for sanity. :)
>>
>Tell you the truth, I have been a little unbalanced ever since 93 in
>Somalia, but I'm much better now!
>
>Jeff





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 10 Mar 1999 12:00:26 -0500

The dynojet kit should bolt right up and create good results. If you remove
your aibox lid, replace the silencer / pipe or add an aftermarket air filter
the dynojet kit will usually cover those changes. Your idle circuit is
untouched by the dynojet kit, so you'll have to adjust the pilot screw or
even change out the pilot jet for one 2-5 numbers higher. I've ditched my
CVK carb in favor of a keihin FCR41, so I'm sure I'll have some similar
headaches soon.

Yo Listers,
Now that I've lashed out and bought a Dynojet kit in anticipation of
some mixture correction on Big Red, I'm wondering if there are any
600-mounted users of DJ kits out there who might want to share jet
settings?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. NKLR ....line-up
Date: 10 Mar 1999 10:07:25 -0700


>In your Jan 26 posting of bikes from dirt to street, I noticed that you had
>the BMW R-80GS and the Honda Africa Twin listed as more dirt-worthy than the
>Honda Transalp.  While I haven't ridden many of these bikes either, I would
>have thought that the weight of the BMW and the Africa Twin would put them
>on the more street side of the Transalp (which I've seen and sat on)?  Are
>they not heavier bikes?


First, it must be said that this was one of those "lets have some fun" posts in the
middle of winter...and I'm not one to want to offend anyone...it was a first
shot...I'd stay with the BMW from what people have told me (I've never ridden) and I'm
inclined to stay with the Africa Twin as well..I would suspect they are all within 50
lbs of each other...but the R-80GS has less plastic than the TransAlp and a proven
track record off-road if for no other reason than Helge's legendary accomplishments on
his...what do the rest of you think?

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil leak
Date: 10 Mar 1999 11:02:14 -0800



----------
> From: [e-mail]
> My trusty 1990 KLR650 has decided to leak oil out of the rubber plug on
the
> engine casing above the sidestand.  Reinstalled the plug still leaking,
is
> there anything internal that may have gone south to cause this, any
> suggestions.
> It's starting to remind me of my old Norton with the oil puddle under the
> bike.
>
> Larry

Larry,
Is this the plug that has wires coming out of it?  If it is, I also had a
leak develop here.  I pulled the side case (stator cover) and noticed that
the rubber piece was all ripped up in some spots.  I thought of replacing
it, but it was attached to the wires that were attached to the stator.  It
looked like the only way to replace the wire was to pull the stator, so I
decided to just smother the rubber plug with that black gasket maker stuff,
and put on new a stator cover gasket.  I let it set for 24 hours, and it
hasn't leaked in about a thousand miles.
Carlos



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard
Date: 10 Mar 1999 12:00:38 +0000

At 03:39 PM 3/10/99 +0000, Yusseri Yusoff wrote:
>
>List,
>
>It's time for me to change the sprocket and chains. So, I went to my
>friendly local dealer to ask him of price and availability. Anyhow, he
>quoted 110 pounds for a H/D O-ring with sprockets. He'll fit it for me as
>well at that price.
>
>The rub is, I can get those H/D O-rings or one of those spiffy DiD/Regina
>X-rings with sprockets for about 80 pounds or less from M&P (mail-order).
>I've looked through some of the mails from the archives (614 matches for
>chain...) and it seems that the general concensus in the list (Tom, Fred,
>Kurt, etc.) is to go for the spiffy X-ring ones. My questions are:
>
>1. How long would a bog standard cheapo chain last? I'm asking this
>because I'm probably finishing my studies (<-- read as loafing) by the end
>of the year and I'd probably flog off my machine then and get another KLR
>at whichever country I'm heading off to next. So, maybe it'd be a good
>idea to not splash out? Having said that, I'm hoping to get the bike to
>carry me to Florence (and back) in June (~2400 miles round trip). So maybe
>I should splash out?



    KLRs are hard on chains. Personaly I have been running a DID X-Ring and
OEM sprockets for about 14,000 miles now. I have had to replace the front
sprocket once and it took up a lot of apparent slack in the chain. The
chain itself is holding up remarkably well. I killed a standard HD O-ring
chain in 8,000 miles. I'll stick with the DID X-Ring .



>
>2(a) How hard is it for a relative novice to fit the chain him/her self?
>It's just that I could get 'em mail-order cheaper, as explained.



    Not very hard. We can certainly help you there.



>2(b) What special tools do I need? Chain breaker? Any special tools to fit
>the master link?


    If you are still running the factory chain, you will probably find that it
is "solid", with no master link. I cut mine off with a side grinder.
Replacement chains h\can be had with either a clip-type master link or with
a rivet type. With the latter you would need a special tool, with the
former you would just need pliars and a few basic hand tools. Again, we can
help there.



>3. Am I right to say that if I were to get an endless chain, the swing-arm
>has to be removed? Long operation? Not advised for butter fingers? How
>great are the risks of cocking it up? I'd like to take the swingarm off
>anyway, to clean the crud (as mentioned by another lister too, once).


    Yup, you would have to pull the rear swing arm (hence my cutting the
factory chain with a side grinder). I have done this twice. Its not
especialy complicated or mentaly challenging, but *is* a lot of work and
trouble. However, if you are coming due to lube the swing arm bearings the
two jobs can be performed at once so it wouldnt be so bad.



>As an aside, some demented spawn of the devil punched a neat little hole
>on my tail light lens and blew the bulb. I was riding home from campus one
>night totally oblivious to the fact that nobody could see me from
>behind... Ended up contributing 13 pounds to Kawasaki for a new lens. In
>the past year, I've had vomit spewed over the clocks, gear lever stomped
>on til it bent, washing up liquid poured over the brake disks twice and
>top box broken into and tool bag stolen. Acts of vandalism in the UK, eh?
>How bad is it across the pond?


    I dunnow. In reasonably quiet Columbia SC (a relativly small regional
government center and college town) things arent so bad. In one of Americas
urban megalopolistic shitholes, its probably worse.

    Then again, from my perspecive is seems that the UK has at least its fair
share of general purpose hooligans, vandals, thieves and other miscreants.
Y'all may not shoot each other very much but it aint exactly paradise,
either. Thats my take from reading the UK moto press, anyway.

-Tom
'96 KLR 650







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 11 Mar 1999 04:44:48 +1000

Mike Ratta wrote:

[...]
> the dynojet kit will usually cover those changes. Your idle circuit is
> untouched by the dynojet kit, so you'll have to adjust the pilot screw or
> even change out the pilot jet for one 2-5 numbers higher. I've ditched my

I can't see why the pilot system might need correction.
Idle/off-idle exhaust and intake flow rates are pretty small, so not
much affected by airbox or muffler mods.
Valve timing, compression ratio or combustion chamber mods would no
doubt alter requirements.

I'll be staying with the stock filter element as there is apparently
no K&N to fit the 600. Does a K&N flow _that_ much more than the
stock foam filter anyway?

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 10 Mar 1999 13:31:05 -0500

Believe me, when you make changes like those, they are across the whole
range, and they will lean out the idle / slow settings which arent covered
by a jet kit. Symptoms are stumbling idle, speed hangs up when the throttle
is blipped and hard cold starts. You can make an air filter from K&N or UNI
filter material, I forget who offers it. A filter will make a big difference
in terms of mixture, especially with the airbox drilled out.

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 1:45 PM


Mike Ratta wrote:

[...]
> the dynojet kit will usually cover those changes. Your idle circuit is
> untouched by the dynojet kit, so you'll have to adjust the pilot screw or
> even change out the pilot jet for one 2-5 numbers higher. I've ditched my

I can't see why the pilot system might need correction.
Idle/off-idle exhaust and intake flow rates are pretty small, so not
much affected by airbox or muffler mods.
Valve timing, compression ratio or combustion chamber mods would no
doubt alter requirements.

I'll be staying with the stock filter element as there is apparently
no K&N to fit the 600. Does a K&N flow _that_ much more than the
stock foam filter anyway?

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) C'mon...
Date: 10 Mar 1999 11:05:03 -0800 (PST)

> "By the way, Jeff, I hope that test you were studying for wasn't one
for sanity. :)"
>
>> C'mon man, there's no need to get personal (smiley face or no).
Your e-mail had me thinking until I got to this part.  I'm sure I'm
not the only one you lost with that comment.  Keep it relevant (which
you had up
until that point), keep it witty, make it irreverent too, but keep it
courteous.  The list seems to be in a slump lately in this regard.

Pulpit mode on:
I have to agree with you Jaun, the list is slowly becoming a place to
*safely* insult others, while hiding in our apparently anonymous glass
houses. I have greatly benefited from the many years of skill this
list represents, as I think many have. I would like to continue.

Let's try to keep our political, religious and otherwise non-KLR
listing to a constructive minimum.

Pulpit mode off:

==
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Shipping a KLR
Date: 10 Mar 1999 11:11:19 -0800 (PST)

> Has anyone had any experience in shipping a motorcycle...

I sent a 1968 Samuri 350 to Alaska back in 73' does that count? Boxed
it up without liquids, dropped a couple pounds of dry ice in the empty
tank and sent it away.

> I check with Federal (AMA endorsed) and the cost was going to be $426.
> That seems pretty high.

If my memory is correct, I paid around $200.00 then, but Alaska was
much farther away in 73' :^)


==
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Going to Moab from Oakland
Date: 10 Mar 1999 11:30:28 -0800

Anyone going to Moab from the San Francisco Bay Area this year?  I am DEFINITELY
going.  Nothing will stop me this time!  I'll buy a 99 KLR if I have to!
Seriously, my bike should be together by next weekend at the latest, which will
give me some time to get in a lot of dirt miles before Moab.  I want to hook up
with some BA folks to go out there.  We could trailer out, with the bikes in the
bed of my ancient Toyota, or ride out, which would require finding some tire
options in Moab.
Anybody?
Cheers!
Chris





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: (klr650) Oil leak
Date: 10 Mar 1999 16:02:47 EST

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--part0_921099768_boundary
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Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

In a message dated 3/10/99 10:01:38 AM EST, [e-mail]
writes:

<< > My trusty 1990 KLR650 has decided to leak oil out of the rubber plug on
the
 > engine casing above the sidestand.  Reinstalled the plug still

 Sounds like the little O-ring on the balancer chain adjuster bolt has
 failed somehow.
 I don't know about 650s, but on my 600 it's quite safe to remove the
 bolt, replace the O-ring and refit the bolt.

 Mister_T
  >>

I had to replace mine (A7, or '93) at about 1500 miles.  I adjusted the
tensioner twice and it started leaking.  Pulled the bolt, replaced the o-ring
and never a drop since.  (about 12k)  Now, don't tell me I couldn't do it that
way or I'll cry.  :-)

MN Ron (hoping everyone can get out on the bikes soon so we get over the
sensitive feelings everyone seems to have right now.  Smile and be
happy!!!!!!)

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[e-mail] wrote:

> My trusty 1990 KLR650 has decided to leak oil out of the rubber plug on the
> engine casing above the sidestand.  Reinstalled the plug still

Sounds like the little O-ring on the balancer chain adjuster bolt has
failed somehow.
I don't know about 650s, but on my 600 it's quite safe to remove the
bolt, replace the O-ring and refit the bolt.

Mister_T



--part0_921099768_boundary--



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Installing Acerbis hand guards
Date: 10 Mar 1999 13:27:53 PST

I put Acerbis hand guards on my KLX.  Spent a long time drilling out
the welded in weight and filing down the inside of the bar so the
plug on the Acerbis would fit.  It can be done. It ain't fun.

Marick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Vasque Sundowners...NKLR
Date: 10 Mar 1999 14:36:31 -0700



Bogdan wrote:


Let me put in a word for Vasque Sundowners.They're not cheap,
$180-200 U.S. (What's the loonie worth now?), but I believe a great value
Completely waterproof, they come in widths & you can walk all day in them.
Best part, they're cool (In both ways but here I mean the original sense of
the word). Much cooler than running shoes for example. I've ridden and
walked in them when it was 100+ many times. I buy them so they fit with
Spenco inserts.

I reply:

I have a good friend who loves them as well..the only thing I don't like about
Vasque's is that you can't redo the soles...

Kurt







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Apology - Dare I ask ( No KLR content)
Date: 10 Mar 1999 21:43:12 -0000

A thousand apologies for raising such a `dirty issue`.

I'll stick to KLR stuff in future, HONEST.

(Thanks to those who replied.  Your views don't differ much from thoughts
over here).

Andy




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 10 Mar 1999 21:46:10 -0000

I notice the `fairing` (plastic bit around the headlamp) on the American
KLR's have a taller windshield and flare out to the side above the mudguard.

Does it work???




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 10 Mar 1999 15:09:08 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


What ever happened to the good Docter Birol?
>  I have sold parts to our Turkish
> Doctor Say

The good Dr is on tour...he had me unsubscribe him on December 6th a few days before
his departure so he would have time to pack...I'll have to check on his return time
but I wouldn't be surprised if he'll be back for the spring industry announcements...

Kurt






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Vasque Sundowners...NKLR
Date: 10 Mar 1999 15:19:42 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; KLR List <[e-mail]>


>
>
>Bogdan wrote:
>
>

>Much cooler than running shoes for example

Bogdan,

I have tried out the Vasques and they are nice, but no way can a leather
boot (especially if its the goretex version) be cooler on a hot day than a
pair of nikes.

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Report Card...
Date: 10 Mar 1999 15:32:48 -0700

After 41/2 days away, I just waded through 740 emails from the two lists I run and
other things...including some 270 plus from the KLR list and here are some KLR
comments.

1. I agree there is a new trend towards personal insults which must stop. This has
been one of the friendliest places on the web...if it is insults you are after you can
go to any of the newsgroups with hard-core Harley (NOTE: not referring to all Harley
riders just the obnoxious dudes that hang out on the newsgroups wanting to be
bad)...and have a ball...state your opinion..keep on topic..respect one another's
viewpoint or leave...simple..

2. NKLR...please use "NKLR" in the subject line of anything that doesn't have to do
with KLR specific info...this applies not only to humorous, clever, and witty stuff
(encouraged) but "on-topic" dualsport stuff like boots, clothing, electric theory,
etc., so to give an example, a discussion on wiring sizes used on the KLR is KLR
specific a related point concerning resistance theory and OHM's law is NKLR...boots
are NKLR...riding techniques NKLR...tires on KLR are KLR....headlight bulbs on KLR are
KLR...Fred's website and umbrella girls NKLR...boorish boars...NKLR...prices for KLR
is KLR...shooting non-combatants NKLR...PC-800's on the White Rim Trail
NKLR...handlebars on the KLR is KLR...Fred's sweet voice and Gino's soft side NKLR...

NKLR stands for No KLR content...and it must be NKLR not nklr not No KLR
content..NKLR...it allows non-digest users to use filters...but, more importantly, it
is a sign of KLR list civility and courtesy....

3. Advice for newbies...do not be afraid to ask newbie questions...but...lurk for
awhile and get acquainted with the list and how it works. Visit the archives...visit
Bill's website...it will help you to ask better questions...

4. Trimming replies...this is a common courtesy...when replying to a message put your
reply after the message you are replying to but trim the original message by using cut
and paste so that only the bare minimum to establish context is included...the poor
digest users have to go through the same post again and again...if you don't know how
it is time to learn...

I have written to Lee Parks of Motorcyle Consumer News and obtained permission to
reprint L.T. Snyder's excellent piece on the do's and don't's of posting to motorycle
mailing lists...I'll get at it in piece by piece installments.

Thanks for making this a great list...thanks for your cooperation...

Kurt Simpson (list admin)
Salt Lake City






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric West <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR emblem
Date: 10 Mar 1999 16:51:36 -0600

--====56554855575157554855===1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-Ascii"

         Reply to:   RE: (klr650) KLR emblem
I had the same thing happen on my '88, and it was done on the one =
occassion that I used a commercial carwash wand.  Those exact letters just =
peeled up and off when the pressure spray hit them.
Eric West
Arne Larsen wrote:
>Hey Listers,
>
>I saw a '96 KLR 650 today at a dealers.  Only 650 kilometers on it - =
looked
>almost new except for a little scratching on the right side hand-guard -
>probably from branches.  The other anomaly was the missing "R" on the =
right
>side of the bike and the missing "K" on the left side.  You know, the =
large
>"KLR" that spans the tank/cowling?  The dealer figured this was from gas
>spillage.  As there is no clear coating over the emblem portion on the
>cowling, as there is on the metal tank, he figured that spilled gas =
lifted
>the emblem.  This looks possible, as there are no scratches or damage to =
the
>cowling.
>
>Any one else found this to be the case?

--====56554855575157554855===1
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-Ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD></HEAD><BODY>
<PRE WIDTH=3D"132">
         Reply to:   RE: (klr650) KLR emblem

</PRE>
<FONT FACE=3D"Geneva" SIZE=3D3 =
COLOR=3D"#000000">I had the same thing happen on my =
'88, and it was done on the one occassion =
that I used a commercial carwash wand.  =
Those exact letters just peeled up and off =
when the pressure spray hit them.<BR>
Eric =
West<BR>
Arne Larsen wrote:</FONT><FONT FACE=3D"Geneva" SIZE=3D1 =
COLOR=3D"#000000"><BR>
>Hey Listers,<BR>
><BR>
>I =
saw a '96 KLR 650 today at a dealers.  Only =
650 kilometers on it - looked<BR>
>almost =
new except for a little scratching on the =
right side hand-guard -<BR>
>probably from =
branches.  The other anomaly was the missing =
"R" on the right<BR>
>side of =
the bike and the missing "K" on =
the left side.  You know, the large<BR>
>"KLR" =
that spans the tank/cowling?  The dealer =
figured this was from gas<BR>
>spillage. =
 As there is no clear coating over the emblem =
portion on the<BR>
>cowling, as there is =
on the metal tank, he figured that spilled =
gas lifted<BR>
>the emblem.  This looks =
possible, as there are no scratches or damage =
to the<BR>
>cowling.<BR>
><BR>
>Any one =
else found this to be the case?<BR>
</FONT></BODY></HTML>
--====56554855575157554855===1--






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [Fwd: Re: [NKLR650) Shipping a KLR]
Date: 10 Mar 1999 17:57:15 -0500

Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
Reply-To: [e-mail]
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01C-KIT  (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
References: <[e-mail]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Rev. Chuck MacKarness wrote:

> but Alaska was
> much farther away in 73' :^)

Yes, it seems to crawl closer each year unless you have to ride there on
a stock KLR seat. Then it purposely backs up the closer you get.
Stuart, if you'll wait another six months, Alaska will be even closer by
then. Fewer mile on the odometer means better resale values.

Jake




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR's in Daytona
Date: 10 Mar 1999 17:43:37 EST

Seen in Bike parking lot at Daytona International Speedway during Bike Week
'99.

1. KLR with street tires and dual disk brakes in front, nice clean job, looks
like original equipment, spoked wheel 19" I think.

2. 2 newer KLR's with Alligator Enduro stickers. I ran this enduro years ago
on a Husky, it was tough then. These bikes were very muddy. I wonder how they
did?

3. And the winner, Parked in the Honda Riders Club parking lot, KLR painted
all Black, good quality paint job too, Kawasaki name on engine sidecovers
filled in, and to top it off, BMW roundels on both sides of the gas tank! I
guess he gets prestige and cheap repair bills at the same time. This was
another nice clean job. I'm sure he fools a lot of people into thinking it's a
BMW.

Also saw a KLR 500 with Canadian license plate, Do they still sell these in
Canada? I never saw one before.

Jeff Bryn
Miami, FL



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR's in Daytona
Date: 10 Mar 1999 16:08:44 -0700

>>Also saw a KLR 500 with Canadian license plate, Do they still sell these
in
Canada? I never saw one before.<<

They used to sell a Tengai 500 also.  A DSN subscriber owns one.  At the
Thumper Rally, someone had a KLR with all decals removed with the BMW
roundels on the tank also. It was white.  Go figure.


Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 10 Mar 1999 18:19:39 -0800



>This website would be a good place to start, it will teach the theory
>of how
>to crash a bike the right way and not get hurt...

Crash a bike the RIGHT??? way? Does the article cover avoidance
techniques?

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 10 Mar 1999 18:40:42 -0800



 Even though Killarney (that would be the wife) continues to
>remind
>me that I already know everything, I would not mind taking the course
>myself.  If for no other reason than to reduce my insurance rates
>(however I
>am sure it would be very beneficial for me as well, just don't let her
>know
>that).  Would you recommend separate courses or is there a course that
>comes
>with a marriage counselor!

In my humble opinion, wives do better by themselves. Also, refrain from
saying "that is not the way I do it" as much as you can. Kudo's for
suggesting that she take a MSF course, however, make sure that it is her
idea, not yours. It is the best investment you can make!

Kentucky MSF Instructor Norm
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR's in Daytona
Date: 10 Mar 1999 18:47:33 -0500

I didn't see one at the Kawasaki dealer in town and I believe they had one
of everything.  They only had a 650 and a 250.  The 250 was only 800$ less.

-----Original Message-----
>Also saw a KLR 500 with Canadian license plate, Do they still sell these in
>Canada? I never saw one before.
>
>Jeff Bryn
>Miami, FL
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR's in Daytona
Date: 10 Mar 1999 17:43:37 EST

Seen in Bike parking lot at Daytona International Speedway during Bike Week
'99.

1. KLR with street tires and dual disk brakes in front, nice clean job, looks
like original equipment, spoked wheel 19" I think.

2. 2 newer KLR's with Alligator Enduro stickers. I ran this enduro years ago
on a Husky, it was tough then. These bikes were very muddy. I wonder how they
did?

3. And the winner, Parked in the Honda Riders Club parking lot, KLR painted
all Black, good quality paint job too, Kawasaki name on engine sidecovers
filled in, and to top it off, BMW roundels on both sides of the gas tank! I
guess he gets prestige and cheap repair bills at the same time. This was
another nice clean job. I'm sure he fools a lot of people into thinking it's a
BMW.

Also saw a KLR 500 with Canadian license plate, Do they still sell these in
Canada? I never saw one before.

Jeff Bryn
Miami, FL



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr)WIFE ON WHEELS
Date: 10 Mar 1999 19:35:50 -0500

Best thing to happen to ya', buddy. My wife started last year on a Nighthawk
250, too small from the start, she'a an Irish/Italian/German Gymnast, so of
course she can ride better than me!!! Now she bought herself a 1999 Kawy
Vulcan 750. Riding has never been better.
P.S. I taught her the basics, then enrolled in the MSF beginner course.
Best of Luck, NY Pete
-----Original Message-----


>Darrel, fellow Listers
>I need your advice.  My wife has purchased a motorcycle.  This may not
>strike folks as odd, however she has always avoided mine as if it were a
>coiled rattlesnake.  I guess the upcoming trip to Moab and the amount of
>time I have spent over the last couple of years with my bike were enough to
>sway her.  I am still not sure.
>First, the bike. We found a brand new Honda CT90 trail bike, its a 78 with
>200 miles on it.  I figured it would be a good bike to get started on. Step
>through frame, light weight, centrifugal clutch, yellow, I know I can get
my
>money out of it if we decided to sell it.  It is also street legal,
although
>I wouldn't ride it on the freeway.  So far the bike is cute and not
>intimidating for her.
>Second, She has never even ridden on a motorcycle, let alone driven one!  I
>have enough respect for my wife and her temper ( six foot tall Irish
>descended REDHEAD) to know better than to try to teach her how to ride it
>myself.  I recall when we were at the Del Mar Mile race you mentioned you
>taught a motorcycle safety course in Oxnard.  I was hoping you might have
an
>address or phone number of someone in this area who taught a similar course
>that might be up to a challenge.
>Thirdly.  Even though Killarney (that would be the wife) continues to
remind
>me that I already know everything, I would not mind taking the course
>myself.  If for no other reason than to reduce my insurance rates (however
I
>am sure it would be very beneficial for me as well, just don't let her know
>that).  Would you recommend separate courses or is there a course that
comes
>with a marriage counselor!
>Fourth.  There might be a DSN article here if I live to tell about it.
THIS
>IS A MAJOR DEPARTURE FROM THE NORM FOR THIS HOUSEHOLD.  Any advice or
>suggestions welcome here.  Also any support from our female listers is more
>than welcome.
>Morgan
>moving into a whole new phase in his life
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] Helmet brake light.
Date: 10 Mar 1999 20:32:55 -0500

Found this company at bikeweek and see many people commute daily on
their KLR's. The system uses a transmitter that clips into the rear
brake light and when the brake lever is depressed, activating the rear
light, the transmitter lights up the light on the back of your head.
The helmet light unit has a reasonably well built look to it, is
lightweight and fits in a snap with removable (when you want) adhesive.
Comes with two baseplates for if you own two helmets or occassionally
ride two up, the passenger can mount the light on theirs.

http://www.safedriving.com

Jake, in no way affiliated with these guys, just thought it a good idea.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Oil Leak
Date: 10 Mar 1999 20:28:56 EST

The rubber plug that I am referring to is below the stator. The plug is about
the size of a quarter.  Any suggestions

Thanks
Larry



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. NKLR ....line-up
Date: 10 Mar 1999 18:08:44 -0800


- the R-80GS has less plastic than the TransAlp and a proven
>track record off-road if for no other reason than Helge's legendary
accomplishments on
>his...what do the rest of you think?
>
>Kurt


Doesn't Helge ride a F650? I could be wrong (just ask my wife).

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. Spring Industry Announcments
Date: 10 Mar 1999 18:19:51 -0800

I think you're right Kurt, and even though I'm sure people are getting tired
of me and this topic, I have truly appreciated all the feedback and useful
input.  Yes, I will most likely get the KLR.  I was drooling over the
prospect of the Tengai I tried to get.  Very disappointed that it got
away... there's something about a bike that you don't find on every street
corner.  I have been finding other used KLR's around though.  Besides the
one I mentioned with the 650 kilometers on it, I found a used '99.  TWENTY
SIX KILOMETERS!!!   Cool eh?

Arne


-----Original Message-----


>
>
>>Gino and Kurt;
>>
>>Should I hold off on a D-S purchase before hearing what these mysterious
>>announcements are???
>>
>>Arne (money burning a hole in my pocket) Larsen
>
>
>No, buy the KLR that fits your budget...
>
>Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Vasque Sundowners...NKLR
Date: 10 Mar 1999 18:24:34 -0800

I have a pair of Vasques ($280.00 CAN., gortex lined etc..) that I have been
wearing for around 6 years.  I think I'm on my 3rd sole...  and no, they're
not stitched.  Some kind of vulcanizing process.

Arne

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; KLR List <[e-mail]>


>
>
>Bogdan wrote:
>
>
>Let me put in a word for Vasque Sundowners.They're not cheap,
>$180-200 U.S. (What's the loonie worth now?), but I believe a great value
>Completely waterproof, they come in widths & you can walk all day in them.
>Best part, they're cool (In both ways but here I mean the original sense of
>the word). Much cooler than running shoes for example. I've ridden and
>walked in them when it was 100+ many times. I buy them so they fit with
>Spenco inserts.
>
>I reply:
>
>I have a good friend who loves them as well..the only thing I don't like
about
>Vasque's is that you can't redo the soles...
>
>Kurt
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Kudos (NKLR)
Date: 10 Mar 1999 18:22:00 PST

Just want to send a "thank-you" to the list for the three most recent
hot tips.  The helmet brake light thing sounds like a no-brainer (I'm
going to order one tomorrow), and the website listing all the safety
articles could be invaluable.  And today I went out and adjusted my
chain using the 1/8" from the rubber method that was mentioned by
someone.  The previous method of measuring what seemed to be a floating
chain seemed to be an inexact science at best.  Thanks again for the
great info, and keep it coming.

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Grateful Hooligan"
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR's in Daytona
Date: 10 Mar 1999 18:38:40 -0800

>Also saw a KLR 500 with Canadian license plate, Do they still sell these in
>Canada? I never saw one before.
>
>Jeff Bryn
>Miami, FL

No.  The only new KLR's are the 250 and 650.

Arne





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mark <[e-mail]>
Subject: NKLR RE: (klr650) KLR's in Daytona
Date: 10 Mar 1999 23:03:56 -0500

That sort of thing reminds me too much of this Toyota Corolla that I saw in
Philadelphia with the grille & emblem from a SAAB 9000 on it.
Mark


SNIP> At the
>Thumper Rally, someone had a KLR with all decals removed with the BMW
>roundels on the tank also. It was white.  Go figure.
>
>
>Gino






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 11 Mar 1999 15:25:50 +1000

Mike Ratta wrote:

> Believe me, when you make changes like those, they are across the whole
> range, and they will lean out the idle / slow settings which arent covered

So far, my 600 seems to be remarkably immune to bad running due to some
impromptu mods, such as removing the muffler or airfilter.
Maybe the original jetting has enough latitude to cover mods only on
one end of the motor at a time.
It's currently running without the airbox snorkel but with standard
muffler.
The times it's run without the muffler it's idled with the customary
KLR regularity of a diesel and revved without any noticable
flat spot.
The only time the mixture has been really upset is when there was
some water in the floatbowl.
The last time I even touched the mixture screw was about 5 years ago.

I'm hoping to get some good flow from the modded stock muffler.
I was at a dyno tuner the other day and it turns out one of the guys
there has a DR650.
It seems the DR owner had the same idea as me WRT fitting a carbon can
off some big twin. In his case he found a repairable carbon can from
a wrecked VTR Honda and adapted it to the DR.
That DR is alleged to have around 40hp at the rear wheel, so if I can
match that with my little 564cc then I guess I'll be doing ok.

I'll leave the airbox pretty stock apart from a modified inlet, until
I can find a way to mount a cylindrical K&N of some sort onto the
stock tube from airbox to carby, retaining at least some of the airbox
shell (as the airbox performs other duties such as rear mudguard and
battery holder).
With an alternate filter element, I could practiacally remove the
filter access plate and cut a bigger hole in the RHS and/or match that
up to a cold air scoop and duct on the RH sidecover.

Still kicking around some ideas,
Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 10 Mar 1999 23:55:18 +0000

At 09:46 PM 3/10/99 -0000, Andy Burton wrote:
>I notice the `fairing` (plastic bit around the headlamp) on the American
>KLR's have a taller windshield and flare out to the side above the mudguard.
>
>Does it work???


    To a degree. It deflects the wind off of the torso pretty well.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR's in Daytona
Date: 10 Mar 1999 23:58:56 +0000

At 04:08 PM 3/10/99 -0700, Pokluda, Gino F wrote:
>>>Also saw a KLR 500 with Canadian license plate, Do they still sell these
>in
>Canada? I never saw one before.<<
>
>They used to sell a Tengai 500 also.  A DSN subscriber owns one.  At the
>Thumper Rally, someone had a KLR with all decals removed with the BMW
>roundels on the tank also. It was white.  Go figure.



    Odd. I saw a Transalp done up like that once.

-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) senseless humor
Date: 11 Mar 1999 00:20:08 EST

In a message dated 99-03-10 17:52:59 EST, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

<<  C'mon man, there's no need to get personal (smiley face or no).
 Your e-mail had me thinking until I got to this part.  I'm sure I'm
 not the only one you lost with that comment.  Keep it relevant (which
 you had up
 until that point), keep it witty, make it irreverent too, but keep it
 courteous.  The list seems to be in a slump lately in this regard.

 Pulpit mode on:
 I have to agree with you Jaun, the list is slowly becoming a place to
 *safely* insult others, while hiding in our apparently anonymous glass
 houses. I have greatly benefited from the many years of skill this
 list represents, as I think many have. I would like to continue.

 Let's try to keep our political, religious and otherwise non-KLR
 listing to a constructive minimum.
  >>
Forgive me for I have sinned. :(

I am guilty of having a warped sense of humor. But I think you are missing the
point.We sometimes take ourselves and our choice of bikes too serious.
Juan, Rev, lighten up.
                                      Ranaldo



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. NKLR ....line-up
Date: 10 Mar 1999 23:11:54 -0700




>
>- the R-80GS has less plastic than the TransAlp and a proven
>>track record off-road if for no other reason than Helge's legendary
>accomplishments on
>>his...what do the rest of you think?
>>
>>Kurt
>
>
>Doesn't Helge ride a F650? I could be wrong (just ask my wife).
>
>Arne
>
>

He does now, but his most famous exploits to date have been done on the
R80GS.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric & Jill Dietiker <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains?
Date: 10 Mar 1999 22:41:10 -0800

>1. How long would a bog standard cheapo chain last?
If you're going on a road trip, get an O or X ring chain. You'll need to
lube a non-O-ring chain every couple hundred miles, and you won't need to
lube the O-ring chain at all (though you'll need to adjust it).

>2(b) What special tools do I need? Chain breaker? Any special tools to fit
>the master link?
You might consider this: As Kurt said, the OEM chain is endless, so you
would need a couple of special tools to cut the old chain and press the
master link. I find it easier to remove the swing arm pivot, slip off the
old chain and slip on the new chain. I have the dealer install the master
link on the new chain. The main concern here is to get the master link
pointed in the correct direction (the closed end leads).
>
>3. Am I right to say that if I were to get an endless chain, the swing-arm
>has to be removed? Long operation? Not advised for butter fingers? How
>great are the risks of cocking it up?
You need only remove the pivot bolt and slide the swing arm back enough to
slip the chains through.

Eric.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric & Jill Dietiker <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Jetting question
Date: 10 Mar 1999 22:54:41 -0800

Just in case there are any hardened carb tuners out there...

I have a 38mm Mikuni on my KLR650. Very nice, except for a couple of small
problems. The most irksome is this: When I close the throttle all the way,
then decelerate for a bit, I cannot smoothly open the throttle. I feel a
great resistance, then the bike jerks forward as the engine finally
responds. The second most irksome is that the bike can't hold a steady speed
at very low throttle settings, such as one would encounter while splitting
lanes through stopped traffic. It's on and off and on and off, ad nauseum.

Hopefully this behavior is characteristic of some common jetting problem &
one of you all will set me straight.

Thanks much,
Eric.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Leak
Date: 11 Mar 1999 04:40:26 -0700



>The rubber plug that I am referring to is below the stator. The plug is about
>the size of a quarter.  Any suggestions
>
>Thanks
>Larry


Larry, I'm confused because you first said it was above the sidestand...and now the
rotor...the most forward and lower plug is the balancer chain adjustment...next are
the two gray plugs one amidships for turning the crank by hand and the smaller above
it for viewing the timing marks...are we talking about any of these three?

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Battery tender converter...NKLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 04:47:01 -0700

Does anyone know if I can get or make a converter for my battery tender plug (the
part that installs to the battery) with the battery tender two prong on one end and a
standard cigarette lighter plug on the other? The idea is that I would have only one
accessory cable (the battery tender) with an adaptor for other stuff...

Is the cigarette lighter accessory plug the standard for accessories like heated
vests, grips, etc. I just took a glance at my Garmin plug and that is what it appears
to be...

Thanks,

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Battery tender converter...NKLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 04:17:23 -0800


-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>Does anyone know if I can get or make a converter for my battery tender
plug (the
>part that installs to the battery) with the battery tender two prong on one
end and a
>standard cigarette lighter plug on the other? The idea is that I would have
only one
>accessory cable (the battery tender) with an adaptor for other stuff...
>
>Is the cigarette lighter accessory plug the standard for accessories like
heated
>vests, grips, etc. I just took a glance at my Garmin plug and that is what
it appears
>to be...
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kurt
>

I would lose the two-prong all together.  Unless you want to be able to plug
into other peoples tenders, I would just adapt the connection at both ends -
female cigarette plug on the bike, and a male plug on the charger.  This
would keep it simple and the one plug could serve multiple purposes.  Unless
the charging current is too heavy for the plug, but at 1 amp I can't see
that being a problem.

Arne





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Philip Allen <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Dimensionally Challenged
Date: 11 Mar 1999 07:44:30 -0500

I hope the collective group wisdom can help me out. On the specs for the new
KLR 650 the wheelbase is listed as 58.9". Is this measured from the point
where the tyres touch the ground or from the longest point from the front of
the front tyre to the rear of the back tyre? Also what is the total height
of the bike without mirrors- I guess from the top of the windshield to the
floor?

Alternatively you could just put me out of my misery and tell me if the KLR
will fit inside an late model Astro/Safari van.

Keep the interesting posts coming- this is a great resource.

Cheers

Phil



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Jetting question
Date: 11 Mar 1999 07:45:19 -0500

What is your idle set at? Is the idle and slow mixture correct? Any popping
from the exhaust?

Just in case there are any hardened carb tuners out there...

I have a 38mm Mikuni on my KLR650. Very nice, except for a couple of small
problems.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Installing Acerbis hand guards
Date: 11 Mar 1999 07:55:54 -0500

I highly recommend aftermarket bars like answer and renthal. Aluminum bars
dont vibrate as bad as steel ones either. Shame Acerbis no longer carries
those full bucket guards for use with bark busters. I've used those for
years


I put Acerbis hand guards on my KLX.  Spent a long time drilling out
the welded in weight and filing down the inside of the bar so the
plug on the Acerbis would fit.  It can be done. It ain't fun.

Marick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rick range" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Electrical Problem
Date: 12 Mar 1999 05:08:23 -0800

I just bought a 89 KLR650 only 7500 Mi and real clean and tight running.
After I got it home, I began to notice that the electrical in starting
routine was a little strange.  It would start with the kick stand down and
clutch engaged in neutral but when I disengaged the clutch it would not
start.  Aslo I could not lock the front wheel with the light off.

But hell I want to ride my new bike.  It is so much fun!

So I am at the point to take the little woman for her first ride.
Sometimes its good to have your mattress sitting there on the back if you
are going on an extended ride.  With the KLR650 you can get off road to
some pretty secluded areas.

But you want to make it as pleasant as possible so the mattress will be
wanting to go again.  So we take off to a nudist resort to hang out and
relax for a while.  After a little hot tubbing we were relaxed and ready to
go for a ride to the lake.  I went over to my bike and was getting ready to
go and It would not start.  I had shut it off with the turn signal on(did
this cause the electrical to finally fail?).  NO dice on the starter
turning over.

So here I am push starting my cycle in the nude!!!!  Such indignity! I
could see my mattress starting to deflate right before my eyes!

Anyone know what the problem may be??

The fuses on top of the battery are OK and I had the battery checked and it
is still strong, so what is the problem?  Is it some black box circuit
controller somewhere that costs and arm and leg to replace?

Anyway I am still out there trying to push start my bike in the nude and
the nights are cold!
Any ideas to help me out of this predicament?
----------




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Dimensionally Challenged
Date: 11 Mar 1999 06:48:59 -0700

If I am not mistaken, wheelbase is measured axle to axle on center.  Overall
length is measured from the forward most part of the bike (usually the
leading portion of the tire) to the rear most part of the bike (usually the
mud guard or rear tire).

I'm not sure if mirrors are included in overall height.
Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Jetting question
Date: 11 Mar 1999 08:13:15 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Just in case there are any hardened carb tuners out there...

How about some soft around the middle carb tuners?

>I have a 38mm Mikuni on my KLR650. Very nice, except for a couple of small
>problems.

Email me some exhaust fumes and I will analyze them.  Does your bike start
easy and idle without the choke on?  Does it run better with the choke on?
I would guess that your air screw is missadjusted or plugged or you have the
wrong size pilot jet.  The Mikuni should have the air screw adjuster on the
side of the carb towards the air filter.  It is a true air adjustment where
the pilot screw adjustment on the KLR carb is on the bottom and is a fuel
adjustment.  They both end up doing the same thing.  They adjust the fuel
mixture at idle and up to about 1/8 throttle position.  There is some good
information in this months DSN newsletter about carb tuning.  Just realize
that the Mikuni uses an air screw to adjust the idle mixture and the Keihin
on the KLR uses a fuel screw to adjust idle mixture.

Fred






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Battery tender converter...NKLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 10:11:49 EST

In a message dated 3/11/99 5:47:28 AM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< he idea is that I would have only one
 accessory cable (the battery tender) with an adaptor for other stuff... >>
Kurt, any output jack is also an input jack. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Jetting question
Date: 11 Mar 1999 10:10:07 EST

Eric, it sounds like a clogged pilot jet. A lot of owners drill out the air
adjustment screw,  and turn that screw out a turn or two to get the best idle,
but that only affects idle. using a bigger pilot jet allows more fuel from
idle up through transition where the needle has primary duties. If you raise
the needle on the slide by using a  washer (there has been lots of ideas on
this in the recent past) you can enrichen the low to mid range  and get rid of
you lean surging. I personally don't endorse the jet kits because they are
expensive and don't address all the jetting issues.
This service can be done  without taking the carb off the engine. Most bikes
have rich main jetting because EPA and Sound testing is done more in the mid
range revs, so top end jetting is ok a lot of the time, until you mess with
air boxes and exhaust systems. Good luck, Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Battery tender converter...NKLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 08:19:21 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>Does anyone know if I can get or make a converter for my battery tender
plug (the
>part that installs to the battery) with the battery tender two prong on one
end and a
>standard cigarette lighter plug on the other? The idea is that I would have
only one
>accessory cable (the battery tender) with an adaptor for other stuff...
>
>Is the cigarette lighter accessory plug the standard for accessories like
heated
>vests, grips, etc. I just took a glance at my Garmin plug and that is what
it appears
>to be...
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kurt
>
>
>

Kurt,

Anything that is attached to your bike should be "hard wired" and anything
that is removable should be attached with a plug to disconnect it.  Try
Radio Shack for your plugs they should have what you are looking for.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Paul Christenson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Battery tender converter...NKLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 07:55:32 PST

>Kurt, any output jack is also an input jack.

Not necessarily.  I once ran across a lighter socket that was for
charging only.  It had a diode in line, presumably so the charger
wouldn't drain the battery if the power to the charger was shut off.
Didn't work worth squat as a power source.

Of course, that's the 1% exception to the rule...

Paul
(avoiding anatomical comparisons on the subject)
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Kudos - wireless turn signals?(NKLR)
Date: 11 Mar 1999 08:57:02 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>The helmet brake light thing sounds like a no-brainer (I'm
>going to order one tomorrow),

Me too, but not for my helmet.  I think I'll put it on my top box so it is
easily removable without wires.  Anyone know of a wireless your signal
setup?

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) re. NKLR ....line-up - Helege's ride
Date: 11 Mar 1999 09:03:10 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>
>
>
>>
>>- the R-80GS has less plastic than the TransAlp and a proven
>>>track record off-road if for no other reason than Helge's legendary
>>accomplishments on
>>>his...what do the rest of you think?
>>>
>>>Kurt

>>Doesn't Helge ride a F650? I could be wrong (just ask my wife).
>>
>>Arne

>
>He does now, but his most famous exploits to date have been done on the
>R80GS.


From an internet interview he said he was given an R1100GS as a replacement
for his older GS bike now in the BMW museum.  He said he likes the R1100GS,
but its too big and complicated for riding outside of Europe.  He prefers
the F650 as an adventure touring bike.

And for Arne's original question....no he is not forced to BMW's, but I'd be
riding them too if they gave them to me free!..=)

Cheers,

Vik







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Paul Christenson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dimensionally Challenged
Date: 11 Mar 1999 08:09:54 PST

>I hope the collective group wisdom can help me out. On the specs for
>the new KLR 650 the wheelbase is listed as 58.9". Is this measured
>from the point where the tyres touch the ground or from the longest
>point from the front of the front tyre to the rear of the back tyre?

Wheelbase is axle center to axle center; approximately the same as where
the tires touch the ground.  (Never had tyres on my bike, so I can't be
ure about those... <G>)

My '96 KLR650 is a couple of inches over 7 feet long, tip to tip.  It
fits in a 7' trailer if I lock the forks at the stop.

>Also what is the total height of the bike without mirrors- I guess
>from the top of the windshield to the floor?

Mine is about 52", top of windshield to ground, sitting more or less
vertically.  You can chop that down considerably (easily get it under
48") if you compress the front suspension.  (How to do that is left as
an exercise to the reader.)

Paul
(whose waist is also "dimensionally challenged"...)
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Paul Christenson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Electrical Problem
Date: 11 Mar 1999 08:21:49 PST

>It would start with the kick stand down and clutch engaged in
>neutral but when I disengaged the clutch it would not start.

You mean if you pull the lever, it WON'T start?  If you mean the
opposite, that you have to pull the lever to start, that's normal
behaviour.

>Aslo I could not lock the front wheel with the light off.

Tail light?  Don't turn the key all the way to the "P" setting.  I did
that several times when I first got the bike.

>So we take off to a nudist resort to hang out

I love that expression... it made my morning.  Thanks.

>I had shut it off with the turn signal on(did this cause the
>electrical to finally fail?).

It shouldn't.  I always park mine with the turn signal on, when I'm in
reserve, or something else needs attention.  (Left turn for reserver,
right turn for everything else.)  It's the equivalent of the string on
the finger.  Never caused me a problem.

>Anyone know what the problem may be??

Well, you can always bypass the stand and clutch lockout switches.
Quite a few people here have done that.

Paul
(who is known to let it *ALL* hang out on occasion... but never on two
wheels.  Some parts shouldn't risk road rash!)
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Vasque Sundowners...NKLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 09:25:17 -0700

    My feet must be one more thing weird about me. Mine are cooler in
the Vasques than specifically, my Nikes. Bogdan

    I have tried out the Vasques and they are nice, but no way can a
leather
    boot (especially if its the goretex version) be cooler on a hot day
than a
    pair of nikes.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Vasque Sundowners...NKLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 09:29:44 -0700

    Yup, I've had'em grownd down & Vibram soles glued on 3 times. Bogdan

    I have a pair of Vasques ($280.00 CAN., gortex lined etc..) that I
have been
    wearing for around 6 years.  I think I'm on my 3rd sole...  and no,
they're
    not stitched.  Some kind of vulcanizing process.

    Arne



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Kudos
Date: 11 Mar 1999 09:35:23 -0700

    Juan that was me. One important point though, 1/8" borders on too
tight; go 1/16" It's best to be conservative on klr chain tension. Bogdan

    And today I went out and adjusted my
    chain using the 1/8" from the rubber method that was mentioned by
    someone.  The previous method of measuring what seemed to be a
floating
    chain seemed to be an inexact science at best.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: NKLR RE: (klr650) KLR's in Daytona
Date: 11 Mar 1999 09:41:27 -0700

    Down in Belize I  met a couple of Texans that drove down in a Yugo
with a Toyota grill; then sold it to the locals. Nice huh? Bogdan

    That sort of thing reminds me too much of this Toyota Corolla that I
saw in
    Philadelphia with the grille & emblem from a SAAB 9000 on it.
    Mark


    SNIP> At the
    >Thumper Rally, someone had a KLR with all decals removed with the
BMW
    >roundels on the tank also. It was white.  Go figure.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains?
Date: 11 Mar 1999 09:45:55 -0800



Eric & Jill Dietiker wrote:

> >1. How long would a bog standard cheapo chain last?
> If you're going on a road trip, get an O or X ring chain. You'll need to
> lube a non-O-ring chain every couple hundred miles, and you won't need to
> lube the O-ring chain at all (though you'll need to adjust it).
>
> >2(b) What special tools do I need? Chain breaker? Any special tools to fit
> >the master link?
> You might consider this: As Kurt said, the OEM chain is endless, so you
> would need a couple of special tools to cut the old chain and press the
> master link. I find it easier to remove the swing arm pivot, slip off the
> old chain and slip on the new chain. I have the dealer install the master
> link on the new chain. The main concern here is to get the master link
> pointed in the correct direction (the closed end leads).
> >
> >3. Am I right to say that if I were to get an endless chain, the swing-arm
> >has to be removed? Long operation? Not advised for butter fingers? How
> >great are the risks of cocking it up?
> You need only remove the pivot bolt and slide the swing arm back enough to
> slip the chains through.
>

The biggest problem I found with the endless chain is that it costs ~350 bucks
from Kawasaki!  Does anyone make a nice endless chain that will fit the KLR that
is in a reasonable price range?  O-ring X-ring or otherwise?Thanks!
Chris


> Eric.






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fw: KLR breakdowns
Date: 11 Mar 1999 10:55:44 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>I originally joined this list to find out more about the KLR 650 in terms of
>very long mileage rides and then got sidetracked. would any of the listers,
>not into personal insults, care to relate any breakdowns they had while on
>long rides and what they did about it or to prevent the same from happening in
>the future.
>The upcomming ride is a 31,000 four month middle to tip to tip and back ride.
>I bought the KLR because of info I read on web sites and from this list. I
>love the bike.
>Having been a BMW dealer during the mid 70's and having owned a few, I'm not
>as smitten with them as others, but my riding pals will be on GS's, I've read
>and talked to long distance riders such as Iron Butters, Danny Liska, the
>author of Jupiters travels, etc. and nothing has changed my mind about the
>cost of and frequency of maintanance issues with the BMW.
>Any experiences would be appreciated, thanks in advance, Frank
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains?
Date: 11 Mar 1999 11:01:42 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: klr650 <[e-mail]>
chains?


>The biggest problem I found with the endless chain is that it costs ~350
bucks
>from Kawasaki!  Does anyone make a nice endless chain that will fit the KLR
that
>is in a reasonable price range?  O-ring X-ring or otherwise?Thanks!
>Chris


I can make you an endless chain.  I will use a DiD X-ring chain with a
riveted connector link.  You wont be able to tell where the connector is.  I
have the chain, the rivet connector link and the tools to do it with.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Fw: KLR breakdowns
Date: 11 Mar 1999 11:01:34 -0700

>I bought the KLR because of info I read on web sites and from this list. I
>love the bike.

What year KLR650 did you purchase? There are some things that should be
addressed if you purchased a pre-1996 model.  If you have a later model, you
bought a very reliable machine that will most likely only need some jetting
work, a bit if seat work for long days in the saddle.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric West <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Endless chain
Date: 11 Mar 1999 12:07:13 -0600

Fred,
  Is there really any reason to run the endless??  I ran master linked (=
spring clip) for 15K miles on my 88.  I rather liked the fact that I could =
occassionally take it off, clean it, and really lube it well.  Plus, this =
aspect let me carry an extra chain on those long off road trips without =
having to bother with a chain breaker etc.
Thanks for taking care of us :-)
Eric West





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Paul Christenson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Electrical Problem
Date: 11 Mar 1999 10:10:15 PST

>>It would start with the kick stand down and clutch engaged in
>>neutral but when I disengaged the clutch it would not start.

>You mean if you pull the lever, it WON'T start?  If you mean the
>opposite, that you have to pull the lever to start, that's normal
>behaviour.

I checked mine, and the starter cranks in neutral, regardless of side
stand or clutch.

In gear, it'll start with stand up and clutch pulled.

Sounds like one (or more) of your lockout switches aren't working.
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: RE: (klr650) Fw: KLR breakdowns
Date: 11 Mar 1999 13:11:59 -0500

Gino,
As I am the owner of two pre-96 machines, could you tell me what these
issues are? I don't want any surprises to occur when I'm a thousand miles
from home.
Thanks,
Mark
B2
A2

>There are some things that should be
>addressed if you purchased a pre-1996 model.
>
>Gino





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Endless chain
Date: 11 Mar 1999 11:19:14 -0700


-----Original Message-----


Fred,
  Is there really any reason to run the endless??

IMHO Peace of mind.  If you feel you need the endless or riveted chain then
their may be some strength to be gained but I always use a clipped link.  I
can't remember any of all the chains I have used ever loosing a master link.
If they are installed correctly and don't rub on anything to wear off the
clip then the master link should last as long as the rest of the chain.

Fred






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains?
Date: 11 Mar 1999 10:26:23 -0800



Fred Hink wrote:

> I can make you an endless chain.  I will use a DiD X-ring chain with a
> riveted connector link.  You wont be able to tell where the connector is.  I
> have the chain, the rivet connector link and the tools to do it with.
>
> Fred

  For how much!
Cheers!
Chris





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains?
Date: 11 Mar 1999 11:33:56 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: Eric & Jill Dietiker <[e-mail]>; klr650
<[e-mail]>
chains?


>
>
>Fred Hink wrote:
>
>> I can make you an endless chain.  I will use a DiD X-ring chain with a
>> riveted connector link.  You wont be able to tell where the connector is.
I
>> have the chain, the rivet connector link and the tools to do it with.
>>
>> Fred
>
>  For how much!
>Cheers!
>Chris
>
>

I think the DiD X-ring chain is around $110, the rivet connector is around
$6.  I'd put it together for free.


Fred





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE:
Date: 11 Mar 1999 13:04:45 -0700



                To the dude with chain installation
question: I'd forward this direct but I lost your name & address. Old
timers, dispenseme/przepraszam for the rerun. I don't believe this pearl of
wisdom made it into the archives. It sure beats trucking the chain to a shop
and since it easily can be performed on the bike you don't have to remove
the swingarm. Also cheaper than a chain press.

                Starting with Fred's clear explanation, the
responses/comments on my masterlink problem got me to thinking (Sort of like
getting the Titanic moving, often with the same results). While pondering
Bob's notched vise grip method I came upon my solution: I took a piece of
scrap 3/8" oak board and traced the link plate on it.  I drilled 2 holes
where the pins would be; Then sawed around the tracing forming a small wood
rectangle slightly larger than the link itself. With the link assembled on
the chain this easily mounted onto the protruding pins and the plate was
affectionately squeezed into place using a small portable vise. I'm sure
vise grips or the chain breaker Steve carries in his tool pouch would also
work. With this gizmo you don't have to alternate pressing onto each pin
separately. Anyway it worked. Thanks for the help, Bogdan



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) FW:
Date: 11 Mar 1999 13:07:59 -0700






                To the dude with chain installation
question: I'd forward this direct but I lost your name & address. Old
timers, dispenseme/przepraszam for the rerun. I don't believe this pearl of
wisdom made it into the archives. It sure beats trucking the chain to a shop
and since it easily can be performed on the bike you don't have to remove
the swingarm. Also cheaper than a chain press.

                Starting with Fred's clear explanation, the
responses/comments on my masterlink problem got me to thinking (Sort of like
getting the Titanic moving, often with the same results). While pondering
Bob's notched vise grip method I came upon my solution: I took a piece of
scrap 3/8" oak board and traced the link plate on it.  I drilled 2 holes
where the pins would be; Then sawed around the tracing forming a small wood
rectangle slightly larger than the link itself. With the link assembled on
the chain this easily mounted onto the protruding pins and the plate was
affectionately squeezed into place using a small portable vise. I'm sure
vise grips or the chain breaker Steve carries in his tool pouch would also
work. With this gizmo you don't have to alternate pressing onto each pin
separately. Anyway it worked. Thanks for the help, Bogdan



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Fw: KLR breakdowns
Date: 11 Mar 1999 13:38:06 -0700

>>As I am the owner of two pre-96 machines, could you tell me what these
issues are? I don't want any surprises to occur when I'm a thousand miles
from home.<<

The more common problem in the pre-96 models is the balancer adjuster
mechanism.  This can be easily ruined by over tightening the balancer
adjuster bolt, which in turn deforms the slide and does not allow the
adjuster shoe to move.  These parts were made beefier in the 96 and up
models.  These upgraded pieces will work fine older KLR's

The post 96 models also have a stronger clutch, although the one on my 95
has had some major abuse and still works just fine.

I have disconnected both the clutch safety switch and side stand safety
switches on my KLR which were the causes of intermittent starting and
cutting out problems.  Be forewarned, however, that by doing this, you bike
will start in any gear with the side stand down.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Garmin GPS III..............NKLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 13:40:18 -0700

I have some info reading the Garmin III+ base maps with regards to coverage
and accuracy in Canada.  I won't bore the list with this info - if you live
or ride in Canada and care let me know.

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>I don't know if this is a good deal or not for anyone, but I just got the
new
>Damark catalog, and it's got the Garmin GPS III (Factory Serviced) for
$229.99






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Articles .....NKLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 13:56:27 -0700

I have scanned some articles regarding touring on a KLR and a RS1100GS and
Eric has been kind enough to post them on his webpage at:

http://www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz/frPictures.html

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR: worn out chains
Date: 11 Mar 1999 16:32:23 -0500

From what I know, the driveline of a bike is always the first to go
(sprockets, chain, tires) so here's my question.  I'm going to be taking a
REALLY long trip some time in the future, as the chain wears out would it be
okay to just keep on removing links from the chain as need be?  I know this
will beat up the sprockets but I'm planning on replacing the chain at the
same time as the sprockest.  Thanks, Stephen Rivett




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR: worn out chains
Date: 11 Mar 1999 14:38:16 -0700

>>I'm going to be taking a
REALLY long trip some time in the future, as the chain wears out would it be
okay to just keep on removing links from the chain as need be? <<

I would be worried about the chain links getting fatigued and failing.
Nothing will punch through an engine case like a chain whipping off of a
counter shaft sprocket.  Been there, done that.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Paul Christenson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR: worn out chains
Date: 11 Mar 1999 14:04:58 PST

>I'm going to be taking a REALLY long trip some time in the future,
>as the chain wears out would it be okay to just keep on removing
>links from the chain as need be?

If you have to remove any links because the adjuster is at the limit,
then you have already stretched the chain WELL beyond the service limit.

If the chain has passed the service limit, or even getting close before
a long trip, just replace the chain (and sprockets, since you're
planning to replace them anyway).

I killed my old TS-185 by doing exactly what you describe.  I was ~50
miles from home, riding dirt roads.  Hit a small rut (barely felt it),
but the chain popped off of the rear sprocket and wound itself around
the front sprocket.  It pushed on the shift lever, and knocked out a
piece of the case about the size of the quarter.

Those extra few miles you're trying to get out of that chain can get
REALLY expensive.
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric West <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Worn chain
Date: 11 Mar 1999 16:24:52 -0600

I always carry an extra chain in the skid pan.  It will stay when I zip =
tie it in there.  That is also where to carry masterlinks, countershaft =
sprockets,etc., but a rear sprocket won't fit there.  If you take a spare =
masterlinked chain, you can just unclip the link, attach the spare chain, =
pull, reattach the master link.  That way you can take time to clean & =
lube the chain properly.  The whole exchange can be done in about a minute =
with a little practice.  I used to keep an old jug of 90wt so I could put =
the chain in to soak until the next exchange; however, this was kept at =
home-not for traveling.YMMV
Eric West





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw: KLR breakdowns
Date: 11 Mar 1999 18:58:07 EST

In a message dated 3/11/99 12:04:15 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< What year KLR650 did you purchase? There are some things that should be
 addressed if you purchased a pre-1996 model.  If you have a later model, you
 bought a very reliable machine  >>
Hi Gino, I have a 98 KLR. It has a 16tooth C/S sprocket, drilled out and
adjusted air/gas mixture screw and raised needle. I'v installed heated grips
bar end weights a GIVI rack for a tour trunk.I"m getting 50 mpg with 900 miles
on the clock.
With the contacts that I"ve made with folks on this list, any concern about
tires and spares have been removed although I will carry new chain (pre-cut)
master links, both sprockets, rear tire, tubes and filter and good tools. I
mounted a small 12 volt compressor under a side cover with a detachable hose
for tire air.
Its the weird stuff that others have encountered that I"m trying to prepare
for.
Thanks, Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Electrical Problem
Date: 11 Mar 1999 19:05:40 +0000

In gear, it'll start with stand up and clutch pulled.
>
> Sounds like one (or more) of your lockout switches aren't working.
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

FWIW,

The earlier KLR's did have a problem with the sidestand lockout
switches.  They would fail and cause the bike to randomly cut out while
riding down the road.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Electrical Problem
Date: 11 Mar 1999 19:12:17 +0000

>
> Anyway I am still out there trying to push start my bike in the nude and
> the nights are cold!
> Any ideas to help me out of this predicament?
> ----------


Sounds like you may have left it with the key in the park position which
leaves the rear light on (like for emergencies or roadside display).
Also you do have to turn the front wheel to full lock to the left in
order to use the combo ignition/fork lock.  It helps to push down a
little on the key as you turn the key to the left to lock.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Articles .....NKLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 17:24:58 PST

Nice shots Vik, and thanks (again) to you Eric for posting them on your
website.  Juan Villarreal



Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 19:54:42 -0800

Hello all!

Has any one here purchased the extended warranty available from Kawasaki and
been really glad they did?  How about someone who did not purchase it and
with they had?  Have many people found that they owned their bike right
through the warranty period without having to use it?  Anyone wondering why
I'm asking all these questions?  Anyone care? ;)

Another question:  Some time ago, someone mentioned that they upgraded their
rear shock with a Progressive Works deal, but they didn't go with the
standard spring - they went with a heavier one that was called a red....
(something?)  I can't remember.  Anyone?

What's the latest on the 4-piston Tokico caliper?  Do you run it with the
stock rotor?  Does the MAPP rotor require a different caliper (if so, # of
piston's), or do you run the stock one on this?

Finally (for now), has anyone had any further luck in attempting to mount a
Tengai (type) fender to the stock front forks?  Custom brackets maybe?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Michael Stecyk)
Subject: Re: (klr650) Extended warranty
Date: 11 Mar 1999 23:06:02 -0500 (EST)

Dear MR>Arne
Pull the trigger and buy that KLR-you know that's what you want
-I have 97 -no warranty extension-rare to use it --"Go ahead make my
day'"
Mike--montreal -A united Canada--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) New Touratech Catalogue
Date: 11 Mar 1999 23:19:32 EST

Got the new Touratech catalogue.  Lots of neat stuff including new twin
headlamp fairings for BMW R1100GS that looks very much like the unit on the
KTM Adventure including the section that comes down to meet the tank.  Also a
MuZ Baghira in adventure tour regalia including 31liter tank.  Really unique
stuff from Europe.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) O-ring, Heavy/Duty O-ring, X-ring or bog standard chains?
Date: 11 Mar 1999 20:49:49 -0800


>1. How long would a bog standard cheapo chain last? I'm asking this
>because I'm probably finishing my studies (<-- read as loafing) by the end
>of the year and I'd probably flog off my machine then and get another KLR
>at whichever country I'm heading off to next. So, maybe it'd be a good
>idea to not splash out? Having said that, I'm hoping to get the bike to
>carry me to Florence (and back) in June (~2400 miles round trip). So maybe
>I should splash out?
>
>2(a) How hard is it for a relative novice to fit the chain him/her self?
>It's just that I could get 'em mail-order cheaper, as explained.
>
>2(b) What special tools do I need? Chain breaker? Any special tools to fit
>the master link?
>
>3. Am I right to say that if I were to get an endless chain, the swing-arm
>has to be removed? Long operation? Not advised for butter fingers? How
>great are the risks of cocking it up? I'd like to take the swingarm off
>anyway, to clean the crud (as mentioned by another lister too, once).
>
>Just thinking of the options.
>
>As an aside, some demented spawn of the devil punched a neat little hole
>on my tail light lens and blew the bulb. I was riding home from campus one
>night totally oblivious to the fact that nobody could see me from
>behind... Ended up contributing 13 pounds to Kawasaki for a new lens. In
>the past year, I've had vomit spewed over the clocks, gear lever stomped
>on til it bent, washing up liquid poured over the brake disks twice and
>top box broken into and tool bag stolen. Acts of vandalism in the UK, eh?
>How bad is it across the pond?
>
>Thanks. I'll shut up now.
>
>Yus


Being the son of the son of a cowboy, I'd say, just think of your bike like
your horse.  Take care of it, and it will take care of you.  Ship your bike
to where ever you go.  Develop a personal relationship with your bike (I
mean work on it yourself.)  I am of the opinion that nobody can afford to
NOT work on their own bike, because only you are going to make sure that the
job is done correctly.  Most mechanics don't care less, as pride in a job
well done is becoming a thing of the past.  So:

1.  I really would only consider the X-ring chain if you ride off-road a
lot.  Other than that, the standard DID o-ring, or whatever other name brand
o-ring should be just fine, as long as you regularly clean and lube and
adjust it.  I have 3000 miles on my DID chain and Sunstar sprockets, and
only two adjustments has been necessary so far, and I have no complaints at
all.

2.a.  It is really easy to fit the new chain and sprockets yourself, except
for two items.  Cutting off the old continuous chain, and loosening the
bolts on the rear sprocket to change it.  In that regard, it might be for
the best for your dealer to replace your first chain, as they have a good
chain breaker.  You can break your own chain, but you'll need a good chain
breaker, and you'll have to grind off the rivets on one of the links.  As
far as the sprocket bolts go, just so long as you use quality spanners on
them and don't round off the nuts.  Mine were really tight, because the
previous owner used permanent "locktite" on them.  Took a bit of sweat on my
part.

2.b.  Its a good idea to have a master link press tool.  The master link is
very tight, and must be pressed.  I have done it with vice grips, but I
really gouged the link up, and the next time I did it I had to replace the
link.  Some of those pocket sized chain breakers work well separating the
master link, in case you need to remove your chain for cleaning.  Other than
that, no special tool that I can think of.

3.  Why bother with the endless chain?  A master link chain is just as good,
and maintenance is much easier.  I have heard people claim that a master
link is a weak link, but I have never seen, and never heard of one breaking,
when properly installed and taken care of.

It takes a really spineless weasel to mess with another man's bike, car, or
whatever property.  I've recently gone out to my bike to find my tool kit
spread all over my front yard, and my leatherman stolen.  My neighbor across
the street found the leatherman the next day in his yard.  We figure the
dickhead used it to break into my neighbor's truck.

Have fun with the maintenance.

Jeff





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) 350dr starting
Date: 11 Mar 1999 23:45:04 EST

YOU know when the good and the bad comes together..
In the last 2 years I bought 3 91 DR,always the best deals,each had less
then500milles,and they range from $1200 to $1500...So that the very good news
with the 91 DR it is so hard to start that they get about a 1000miles every 10
years...
The most amazing scenario was the 300miles one,this guy had 2 small airplanes
in 2 differents hangards and used the bike only to go from one to the other,at
each place he had a hair dryer plug in and would blow up the carb for exactly
3mn45s
for a guaranteed start......
Well I have found simplier :
WHEN COLD NEVER USE THE DECOMPRESSOR,THE BIKE IS SET UP SO LEAN THAT WHAT EVER
MIX GET IN THE CYLINDER if you decompress some of the mix is gone..
Just kick it,full throttle,no throttle it does not matter on these 3 bikes it
just goes..
Just think you are kicking the head of your wife"s lawer last time you
divorce..
Guy Le Baher
91 dr 350
97 klr
86 helix



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 21:38:07 -0700

>Has any one here purchased the extended warranty available from Kawasaki and
>been really glad they did?  How about someone who did not purchase it and
>with they had?  Have many people found that they owned their bike right
>through the warranty period without having to use it?  Anyone wondering why
>I'm asking all these questions?  Anyone care? ;)

Arne, you will go down in the list's history as the most careful buyer...if we fail to
convince you to draw down on a KilLeR we're all headed for extensive therapy...it will
be that big a let down...The only lister I recall in the last year as having a major
problem was Stuart Heaslet who discovered a flaw in the lower case of his bike while
still under warranty...I used mine once this year for a new battery. I opted not to
buy the extended warranty and use the money for goodies...time will tell...

>Another question:  Some time ago, someone mentioned that they upgraded their
>rear shock with a Progressive Works deal, but they didn't go with the
>standard spring - they went with a heavier one that was called a red....
>(something?)  I can't remember.  Anyone?

We have people who have purchased the Larry Roestler Progressive Shock detailed on the
Website and two listers with Works Shocks. No one has done the transplant. The spring
used on the rear shock will depend on your weight...If you have your shock built for
you they will ask you how you intend to use the bike and get your vital statistics. I
had a long chat with Bob Bell at Precision Concepts last week after reading about
Eldon Carl's recommendations...Bob is offering some great prices on KLR and DR fork
and shock work. More on this later...

>
>What's the latest on the 4-piston Tokico caliper?  Do you run it with the
>stock rotor?  Does the MAPP rotor require a different caliper (if so, # of
>piston's), or do you run the stock one on this?

The MAPP uses the stock caliper...with an adaptor...


Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 00:11:30 EST

In a message dated 3/11/99 9:52:59 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Finally (for now), has anyone had any further luck in attempting to mount a
 Tengai (type) fender to the stock front forks?  Custom brackets maybe? >>
Arnie, I have a vintage front frok brace comming from one of those old parts
places. we used to mountMX fenders on them. If it works, Ill post the info on
the list. I prefer the ability of mounting it high for thick mud roads and
down low for the long highways.Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 00:19:25 EST

In a message dated 3/11/99 11:06:37 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< The MAPP uses the stock caliper...with an adaptor. >>
Kurt, how does a bigger rotor help if there is no increase in pad contact
surface or force? Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 11 Mar 1999 21:38:32 -0800



>At 09:46 PM 3/10/99 -0000, Andy Burton wrote:
>>I notice the `fairing` (plastic bit around the headlamp) on the American
>>KLR's have a taller windshield and flare out to the side above the
mudguard.
>>
>>Does it work???
>
>
> To a degree. It deflects the wind off of the torso pretty well.
>
>
>-Tom
>'96 KLR 650
>
I've been thinking about adding some "Stealth" edging around the stock
screen.  Maybe that would get the wind stream over my helmet when I'm
crouched over the tank at 80 MPH.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Michael Stecyk)
Subject: Re: (klr650)
Date: 12 Mar 1999 00:33:40 -0500 (EST)

Dear Mr. KURT
Error in message-to list  and Mr. Arne

Dear MR. Arne
 Driving us nuts--buy H-D--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR KTM600 EXC Lc4 question
Date: 11 Mar 1999 21:34:19 -0800

Folks,
While I'm working to fix my KLR, along comes a pretty good looking deal
on a KTM.  It doesn't have the baja kit on it so it's dirt only right now.  It
has low
hours.  It's a '90.  Any general information about this bike and KTM would be
GREATLY appreciated.  How much do you think I should pay for this bike?
Of course, I'm gonna keep the KLR!  :-)
Cheers!
Chris





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 21:38:03 -0800



[e-mail] wrote:

> In a message dated 3/11/99 11:06:37 PM Central Standard Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << The MAPP uses the stock caliper...with an adaptor. >>
> Kurt, how does a bigger rotor help if there is no increase in pad contact
> surface or force? Frank


Well, if the force is the same, but the rotor has a larger diameter, then the
force is acting on a longer lever.  So you have "stronger" braking.  If you hang
a 1lb. weight from a 1ft. lever you have 1ft.lb. of torque at the pivot.  If you
hang the same weight from a 2ft lever, you have 2ft.lb.s of torque.
QED.

Cheers!
Chris





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 21:48:23 -0800


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>




>> Arne, you will go down in the list's history as the most careful buyer...

Ya this is a strange one for me too.  I'm usually quite impulsive, and often
quick to decide on something. Maybe that's the cop in me... I suppose I've
blown a lot of money over the years as well.  I guess I'm finally starting
to mature a little (I didn't say that) - married 12 years (to the same
wife), three kids, been working at the same place for 11 years, a couple of
mortgages later - look what happens...  Oh ya, I've gained 80 pounds in the
process... (hence the suspension questions)

>> if we fail to convince you to draw down on a KilLeR we're all headed for
extensive therapy...

Come up and see me.  We've got a pretty good medical and extended health
plan through work.  I may be able to slide a few of you through as
dependants.

>> it will be that big a let down...

I wouldn't want to disappoint anybody.

Arne (knowledge is power) Larsen




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 21:57:57 -0800


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>



>Arnie, I have a vintage front frok brace comming from one of those old
parts
>places. we used to mountMX fenders on them. If it works, Ill post the info
on
>the list. I prefer the ability of mounting it high for thick mud roads and
>down low for the long highways.Frank

That's kind of what I'm thinking - up for off, down for on - a dual-sport
fender

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw: KLR breakdowns
Date: 11 Mar 1999 22:14:47 -0800



>I have disconnected both the clutch safety switch and side stand safety
>switches on my KLR which were the causes of intermittent starting and
>cutting out problems.  Be forewarned, however, that by doing this, you bike
>will start in any gear with the side stand down.
>
>Gino
>
I actually think that while this might be a safety issue, it also has its
plus side.  If you ever broke your clutch cable, you could start the engine
in gear and get the bike moving, and limp home in first or second gear.  If
you felt adventurous, or if you had to go fast, it is possible to speed
shift up, when the RPM's are right.  After you come to a stop light or sign,
just kill the motor, and roll and kick the bike back down into first and use
the starter to get moving again.  Thankfully I haven't had to do this on my
bike, but I did use this method to get my Bug home once, so its
theoretically possible on the KLR.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dreas Nielsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V2 #115
Date: 11 Mar 1999 22:37:22 -0800

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 19:54:42 -0800
> From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
>
> Hello all!
>
> Has any one here purchased the extended warranty available from
> Kawasaki and
> been really glad they did?  How about someone who did not purchase it and
> with they had?  Have many people found that they owned their bike right
> through the warranty period without having to use it?

I never used the warranty on my 1986 KLR 600, and the only repair it needed
was a new float needle in 1997.  I took my new (1998) KLR 650 in for
warranty repair at 4800 miles because the tens digit in the trip meter
sometimes stuck when I rolled the meter over to zero (typically, it would
roll over to 20 miles instead of to zero).  The dealer replaced the odometer
and tripmeter with no hassle--it cost me 15 minutes and a signature.

Dreas Nielsen
Issaquah, WA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dimensionally Challenged
Date: 11 Mar 1999 22:20:39 -0800

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

    Someone here on the list previously mentioned that they often carry their
KLR in a older model Chrysler mini-van which I am pretty sure is smaller than an
M-van, so with a little persuasion you might be in luck. I believe that you will
need to enter through the rear doors on an angle to clear the smaller opening of
the rear, but should be able to side stand it once in.

Good Luck..
Brian

Philip Allen wrote:

> Alternatively you could just put me out of my misery and tell me if the KLR
> will fit inside an late model Astro/Safari van.
>
> Phil

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--------------9D2A27B24072610616F6FA7E--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 11 Mar 1999 22:31:20 -0800



>In a message dated 3/11/99 11:06:37 PM Central Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< The MAPP uses the stock caliper...with an adaptor. >>
>Kurt, how does a bigger rotor help if there is no increase in pad contact
>surface or force? Frank
>
Its simply physics my man!  By increasing the radius of the rotor, you have
given the brake a larger moment, or greater torque.  Its like using a longer
wrench to loosen that stuck nut, you have more leverage, and the brake
caliper has more leverage when its located at a larger radius.  Could you
imagine the stopping power if the rotor was half the radius of the wheel?
Or the calipers were applied to the rims, like with bicycle brakes?

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR KTM600 EXC Lc4 question
Date: 11 Mar 1999 22:59:24 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>Folks,
>While I'm working to fix my KLR, along comes a pretty good looking deal
>on a KTM.  It doesn't have the baja kit on it so it's dirt only right now.
It
>has low
>hours.  It's a '90.  Any general information about this bike and KTM would
be
>GREATLY appreciated.  How much do you think I should pay for this bike?
>Of course, I'm gonna keep the KLR!  :-)
>Cheers!
>Chris
>


Go to www.international-mc.com and take the KTM factory tour.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)  - Driving MR. Michael NUTS
Date: 11 Mar 1999 23:04:29 -0800


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>> Dear Mr. KURT
>> Error in message-to list  and Mr. Arne

>> Dear MR. Arne
>> Driving us nuts--buy H-D--



What would I want with a Harley???

Actually, while I may be driving you nuts Michael, the rest of the list has
been very courteous, helpful, and yes... patient.  But it is my
understanding that these types of questions are exactly what this list is
for.  I'll admit, that in my first week or so here there was a steep
learning curve, but I think I have since caught on.  Before asking questions
(which may be obvious ones to you) I now do a thorough search of the KLR
Dual-Sport News Website and the e-mail archives.  Often times though, these
searches lead to more questions - so I ask!

Since I have been on this list I read everything, not just the responses to
my own questions.  I have tried to contribute to the questions, problems,
etc.. of the other listers, in addition to asking my own.  In this way I am
attempting to earn my keep (so to speak).  Then in the future, after I've
become one of the "enlightened", I may have something to pass on to the next
guy.  Because you can bet that there will be others with even more questions
after I quite asking the majority of them.  Everyone has questions.  I was
taught that the smart ones were the ones who weren't afraid to ask them.
You know, it doesn't matter who's name is at the bottom of a valid
question - It doesn't even matter if the same guy does all the asking - When
a question is asked, everyone has the opportunity to benefit.

..... I gotta tell you guys that I'm really PISSED right now; and I'm doing
my best to vent in the most constructive manner possible.  You see, if it
wasn't for Kurt's posting the other day on list etiquette, (sorry Kurt) I'd
be inviting little Michael over to tell me to my face that I'm driving him
nuts.  Then we could discuss "a united Canada".


Arne - viva le Quebec!






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 12 Mar 1999 00:02:15 -0700



>I've been thinking about adding some "Stealth" edging around the stock
>screen.  Maybe that would get the wind stream over my helmet when I'm
>crouched over the tank at 80 MPH.
>
>Jeff
>
>

I bought some Stealth edging at the BMW Rally this summer. Placed it on the
windscreen and around the sides of the fairing. Very noticeable improvement
in wind noise and buffeting. Whereas the wind was hitting right at the top
of my visor, now it`s clearing my helmet.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 11 Mar 1999 23:37:45 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>
>I bought some Stealth edging at the BMW Rally this summer. Placed it on the
>windscreen and around the sides of the fairing. Very noticeable improvement
>in wind noise and buffeting. Whereas the wind was hitting right at the top
>of my visor, now it`s clearing my helmet.
>
>Skip
>

Do I dare ask what "stealth" edging is?

Arne (Gun-shy??? Me???)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 12 Mar 1999 00:49:35 -0800

>
>I bought some Stealth edging at the BMW Rally this summer. Placed it on the
>windscreen and around the sides of the fairing. Very noticeable improvement
>in wind noise and buffeting. Whereas the wind was hitting right at the top
>of my visor, now it`s clearing my helmet.
>
>Skip
>
>
Does anyone happen to remember the link to the Saeng website?

thanks,
Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 12 Mar 1999 01:03:49 -0800

>>
>>
>Does anyone happen to remember the link to the Saeng website?
>
>thanks,
>Jeff
>
NEVERMIND!  Its http://www.saeng.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 12 Mar 1999 01:08:47 -0800


>
>Do I dare ask what "stealth" edging is?
>
>Arne (Gun-shy??? Me???)
>
Check out http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page11.html#anchor71137 for a
pretty good picture of stealth edging on a windscreen.  Also check out
http://www.saeng.com for the company that makes it.  It is applied to the
circumference of the screen and is supposed to increase the turbulence at
the edge, thus creating a larger void in the slipstream behind the
windshield.  I've heard that it is pretty expensive, but I don't know, and
would like to check it out for myself.

Jeff

BTW.  Stop deliberating, you've found your bike.  Go out and get you one and
RIDE!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Trip Report...Long
Date: 12 Mar 1999 05:05:09 -0700

Vic Norton's recent distinction on Dust has helped sort out a few things for me...I
have the KLR and DR...the KLR works as a bike that you can ride to your destination
and then jump off and air down and hit the road. I think he called it dualsport
touring...I still get a feeling of envy when the dirt oriented dualsport types
arrive...but a cliff jumper the KLR is not...

This past weekend I jumped at lister Susan Merrill's invite and met her and friend
Bill Hall in Death Valley for two days of riding. The trip involved throwing my gear
into my F-250 with KLR in the back...driving 200 miles south of Salt Lake City to
friend Jake Jakeman's (snow in the forecast). I spent the night with Jake and
appreciated his help the next morning out in his machine shop the next morning. It
had been all I could do to throw everything I own into the truck and save the packing
for later. Under his sharp eye "throw that back in the truck.".."No, you can't take
your Franklin Planner here is a 10 cent notebook"..."no, pretty but it can't make the
trip"..."what do you need the GPS III+ for? (sorry Jake I'm taking this
one)"..."leave the Touratech mount at home until you figure it out"...all of this
delivered with the humor of a drill sergeant...Jake is an expert at cycle
camping...and he was a huge help in getting me weaned from my fantasy...

I left after three hours of crying and whining and packing with a pretty tight rig.
Tank bag...Dual Star Co-Pilot...Tank Panniers...Dry Saddlebags...and a big Filson
Duffel strapped to a Top-of the Line rack on the rear...this last loaded with light
stuff...tent..Therm-a-Rest...and other light stuff in North Face compression sacks
and/or Dry Bags...The KLR didn't groan much under the weight and I tried keeping the
heavier stuff low and forward.

The bike was flawless on the trip except for a 5 mile stutter at St. George...the
trip from Milford to Death Valley was a little shy of 350 miles each way...I bucked a
stiff head wind all the way down and a raging cross and trail wind on the return.
Mileage varied from 37-45 with a jet kit and airbox/exhaust mods...I ran a 16T front
and toured at nothing less than 70 but mostly 80 indicated (75 actual according to
the GPS) top speed indicated 98 but didn't have the GPS on at that time...I was
thrilled at how the KLR handled the road miles...

Off-Road I wanted to see how the bike would handle on the dirt/sand roads with the
load and got my chance on Monday when we decide to travel to an abandoned mining camp
on Warm Springs Rd. I talked Bill and Susan into doing the 35 mile initial trek on
West Side road in spite of their protests for it being so washboarded that it shook
them to death...It proved to be cake (I think it had been graded since their last
trip)...I led most of the way and averaged about 50 mph  (didn't want to see the
sights) with top speed 65...the bike did great. When we turned off on Warm Springs we
were greeted with the kind of stuff heavy dual sport touring bikes hate...sand...and
loose gravel and not just stretches...miles...at least the first 4 mostly on not
off...Bill led the way on his TW200...Susan followed me...except for a couple of
stretches where the "death grip" on the handlebars did me in...the bike did really
well fully loaded...made it the 12 miles to the mining camp and made a beautiful camp
under the protective watch of some fir...

The bike did everything I had hoped (my first dual touring experience). I wouldn't
have wanted any heavier a bike in the sand...and can't imagine taking a GS up that
wash although it did occur to me that if I dumped the bike the saddlebags and
panniers would help protect it...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR I'm Back!
Date: 12 Mar 1999 05:12:55 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>
>
>>Welcome back Jeff, thought we lost you in the Gun controversy..you were a
>good poster
>>and I'm sure you'll add a lot...
>>
>>Kurt
>>
>Sorry, I haven't had time to review all of the archives.  What was the gun
>controversy?  9 mm versus .40 S&W?  Weaver stance versus isosceles?  H & K
>MP-5 versus Colt M-4 Carbine?  Hard to imagine a serious controversy
>involving firearms in this country.  (sarcasm big time)  What was this
>wilderness controversy I heard about too?  Maybe you could send me a link to
>the proper archive.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jeff
>
>
This is the latest greatest web searchable...

http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650

This is the gateway version...most readable...

http://www.xmission.com/~dkenison/cgi/lwgate.cgi/KLR650/archives/

This is the downloadable:

http://www.xmission.com:80/pub/lists/klr650/archive/

No comment on the other points...my lips are sealed by example...

Kurt





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 12 Mar 1999 05:37:48 -0700

>windshield.  I've heard that it is pretty expensive, but I don't know, and
>would like to check it out for myself.
>
>Jeff


Last year it was $10 a foot and I think I ordered 40 inches which proved to be more
than I needed for my 8" Clearview...does it help?  Yes...it helped a lot until I
ordered my modified Corbin which raised me up an inch...I think it will help me more
when I get the lowering links on....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob and Laurie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR KTM600 EXC Lc4 question
Date: 12 Mar 1999 07:43:24 -0500

Run, Run away!   The KTM 43-strokes prior to '95 were troublesome beasts!


Robert
-----Original Message-----


>Folks,
>While I'm working to fix my KLR, along comes a pretty good looking deal
>on a KTM.  It doesn't have the baja kit on it so it's dirt only right now.
It
>has low
>hours.  It's a '90.  Any general information about this bike and KTM would
be
>GREATLY appreciated.  How much do you think I should pay for this bike?
>Of course, I'm gonna keep the KLR!  :-)
>Cheers!
>Chris
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob and Laurie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) DR350 list
Date: 12 Mar 1999 07:45:01 -0500

Anybody know how i can subscribe to the new DR350 list I've heard about?

Robert




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 12 Mar 1999 09:04:00 +0000

At 09:38 PM 3/11/99 -0800, Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:
>
>
>>At 09:46 PM 3/10/99 -0000, Andy Burton wrote:
>>>I notice the `fairing` (plastic bit around the headlamp) on the American
>>>KLR's have a taller windshield and flare out to the side above the
>mudguard.
>>>
>>>Does it work???
>>
>>
>> To a degree. It deflects the wind off of the torso pretty well.
>>
>>
>>-Tom
>>'96 KLR 650
>>
>I've been thinking about adding some "Stealth" edging around the stock
>screen.  Maybe that would get the wind stream over my helmet when I'm
>crouched over the tank at 80 MPH.



    Personaly, I added a handlebar mounted windshield. *That* works. Dunnow
about the miracle "stealth" edging.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 12 Mar 1999 09:06:27 +0000

At 11:37 PM 3/11/99 -0800, Arne Larsen wrote:
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Skip Faulkner <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR650 Page <[e-mail]>
>Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 11:16 PM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
>
>
>>
>>I bought some Stealth edging at the BMW Rally this summer. Placed it on the
>>windscreen and around the sides of the fairing. Very noticeable improvement
>>in wind noise and buffeting. Whereas the wind was hitting right at the top
>>of my visor, now it`s clearing my helmet.
>>
>>Skip
>>
>
>Do I dare ask what "stealth" edging is?



    Its a kind of rubber moulding that you slip on the edges of your
windshield that supposidly "adds a couple of inches" to it size, in terms
of its abilityu to deflect air. I have no personal experience with it but
know that it is *quite* expensive.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Don't sweat it...
Date: 12 Mar 1999 06:29:17 PST

>..... I gotta tell you guys that I'm really PISSED right now; and I'm
doing
>my best to vent in the most constructive manner possible....

Don't let it get to you Arne.  Give the gentlemen the benefit of the
doubt and assume he was only trying to engage in a humorous aside.  I've
actually enjoyed your on-going quest for knowledge, information, and
validation.  I'm not into blind loyalty to any man, product, or credo,
if I was I would have bought a Beemer [flame on, knaves! ;-)].
Occasional re-evaluations of why we bought the KLR can only be good for
all of us.  Regarding the extended warranty...

Those things require a bit of soul searching.  Do you have the time,
expertise, AND inclination to really tear into your bike should the need
arise?  When I bought my bike two years ago I had the inclination but
neither the time nor expertise, so I went for the whole four year thing.
I deployed overseas alot, and didn't want to spend my precious weekends
turning wrenches.  If you don't have ALL THREE of the above things going
for you, than I'd consider buying it.  BUT...

If you're talking strictly in terms of reliability, then I suspect a new
KLR is probably as close to a fail-safe ride as you could get,
especially for the money (boy I've jinxed you now!).  As you've probably
noticed, most of the stuff posted to this list isn't of the
"show-stopper" variety.  It's more along the lines of tweaking,
customizing, and performance enhancement.  A real testament to the
bike's fundamental cast iron strength and resilience.

A person with a modicum of mechanical ability could easily forego the
extension and ride in full confidence.  If you're in that category, then
a purchase of a KLR should present no problems for you.  Whatever you
decide, enjoy yourself and keep the questions coming.  Later...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"


Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 12 Mar 1999 09:29:09 EST

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--part0_921248949_boundary
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In a message dated 3/12/99 3:04:17 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< It is applied to the
 circumference of the screen and is supposed to increase the turbulence at
 the edge, thus creating a larger void in the slipstream behind the
 windshield.  I've heard that it is pretty expensive, but I don't know, and
 would like to check it out for myself.

 Jeff >>

Hey guys, I've used the "stealth" edging in the past, and it is a good thing.
It doesn't increase the size of the windshield effect, but it does smooth out
the air.  I don't have it on my KLR, but I plan to when I decide if I'm
staying with the stock shield or reinstalling my Rifle shield.  Just my $.02
worth.

MN Ron (Aren, stay with us and ignore the little guys.  The only dumb question
is the one that isn't asked...)

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>
>Do I dare ask what "stealth" edging is?
>
>Arne (Gun-shy??? Me???)
>
Check out http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page11.html#anchor71137 for a
pretty good picture of stealth edging on a windscreen.  Also check out
http://www.saeng.com for the company that makes it.  It is applied to the
circumference of the screen and is supposed to increase the turbulence at
the edge, thus creating a larger void in the slipstream behind the
windshield.  I've heard that it is pretty expensive, but I don't know, and
would like to check it out for myself.

Jeff

BTW.  Stop deliberating, you've found your bike.  Go out and get you one a=
nd
RIDE!




--part0_921248949_boundary--



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 09:27:34 EST

In a message dated 3/11/99 11:37:38 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Well, if the force is the same, but the rotor has a larger diameter, then
the
 force is acting on a longer lever.  So you have "stronger" braking.  If you
hang
 a 1lb. weight from a 1ft. lever you have 1ft.lb. of torque at the pivot.  If
you
 hang the same weight from a 2ft lever, you have 2ft.lb.s of torque.
 QED >>
Chris, you mean that if the rotor could be increased an unlimited amount, the
caliper and brake pad could be decreased an unlimited amount and still have
the same braking? Is there any extra force needed for the extra inertial force
from the extra "flywheel" effect and could a cast iron rotor with more
friction do the same as a bigger stainless steel rotor? Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Stealth edging
Date: 12 Mar 1999 06:50:30 PST

Hello Skip,

I think I'm going to invest in some of that newfangled edging.  A couple
of questions first...

- How easy or difficult is it to fit and mount (I'll be putting it on
the stock fairing and windscreen)?

- How much length did you require for your fairing and windscreen (today
would be the day I didn't ride my bike to work)?

Thanks in advance, Juan Villarreal



Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) DR350 list...NKLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 08:38:11 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Anybody know how i can subscribe to the new DR350 list I've heard about?
>
>Robert


Glad you asked. Send a message to [e-mail], leave the subject
blank, in the body type (without the quotes) "subscribe dr350"...that's it...traffic
is light the list is only two weeks old but has about 60 members so far...it'll be a
good'un...

Kurt
Salt Lake City




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Stealth edging
Date: 12 Mar 1999 08:42:23 -0700



>Hello Skip,
>
>I think I'm going to invest in some of that newfangled edging.  A couple
>of questions first...
>
>- How easy or difficult is it to fit and mount (I'll be putting it on
>the stock fairing and windscreen)?
>
>- How much length did you require for your fairing and windscreen (today
>would be the day I didn't ride my bike to work)?
>
>Thanks in advance, Juan Villarreal


It is easy to put on...it just requires a couple of gentle pinches of pliers every now
and then...it is held on by interspaced pieces of metal molded into the rubber...as
far as length..just take a string to the outside edge of your shield and add 2" for
good measure...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: waynef <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Stealth edging
Date: 12 Mar 1999 09:54:33 -0600

I Just put some on my stock windshield this morning--the required length
is 20"




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR KTM600 EXC Lc4 question
Date: 12 Mar 1999 11:09:46 -0500

Christopher J Beasley wrote:
>
> on a KTM.
> It's a '90.  Any general information about this bike and KTM would be
> GREATLY appreciated.

I too heard the same "avoid" warning from a local privateer shop
mechanic re: avoiding pre-95 KTM's. They hesitate to take them on trade
because of their cantankerous nature and difficult starting, especially
among the larger CC bikes. I found one (a '92 EXc) last fall for $1100
with low hours and the owner was selling it for the same reason I should
be avoiding it. Gorgeous bike to look at tho.... May want to find out if
the owner has addressed any of the ills before taking our word(s).

FWIW,

Jake in Jacksonville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) DR350 list...NKLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 10:59:40 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 8:42:29 AM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< >Anybody know how i can subscribe to the new DR350 list I've heard about?
 >
 >Robert >>

It's a quiet list because most of them are out trying to kick start their
bikes ;-)

Gino, Mr. 'Lectric, Pokluda



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Stealth edging
Date: 12 Mar 1999 11:14:08 -0500

Let us know how tall some of you are. I would like to try some of this
but at 6'3", my helmet hangs a little higher out there. I'd be curious
as to how tall you can be and still benefit from it- I still have the
stock screen BTW.  Wish I had bought it at Daytona-was only $6 a foot
there ("show special"?)

Jake

waynef wrote:
>
> I Just put some on my stock windshield this morning--the required length
> is 20"



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Stealth edging
Date: 12 Mar 1999 09:30:50 -0700

    I used it for a while with a Clearview shield. Never could tell
whether it worked or if I was experiencing the placebo effect. I'm
incredulous about it improving a stock length shield in any way. Maybe I'm
wrong; let me know. I still have it laying around. Bogdan
    waynef wrote:
    >
    > I Just put some on my stock windshield this morning--the required
length
    > is 20"



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions -N KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 09:37:14 -0700


    It's that Greek guy that said he could flip a cheeseburger the size
of the world if you gave him a long enough spatula all over again.
    Its simply physics my man!  By increasing the radius of the rotor,
you have
    given the brake a larger moment, or greater torque.  Its like using
a longer
    wrench to loosen that stuck nut, you have more leverage, and the
brake
    caliper has more leverage when its located at a larger radius.
Could you
    imagine the stopping power if the rotor was half the radius of the
wheel?
    Or the calipers were applied to the rims, like with bicycle brakes?

    Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 08:52:12 -0800

<SNIP>

[e-mail] wrote:

> Chris, you mean that if the rotor could be increased an unlimited amount, the
> caliper and brake pad could be decreased an unlimited amount and still have
> the same braking? Is there any extra force needed for the extra inertial force
> from the extra "flywheel" effect and could a cast iron rotor with more
> friction do the same as a bigger stainless steel rotor? Frank

  Well, things don't always work the same in the extreme.  Yes there is extra
force
required to stop the larger rotor but it's extremely small compared with the
gyroscopic
energy stored in the rotating wheel.  This might not be true if you made the disk
larger by "an unlimited amount" ;-)
Chris





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: (klr650) DR350 list...NKLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 09:55:20 -0700

Gino
It is quiet because of the pureness of DR riders. BTW on the starting mine
started failing to have enough batterry a few years back & the problem was
my replacement of the headlight with a higher output bulb & it was
discharging the battery. I was suspect of this & pulled the bulb out on the
trail. I took it to the dealer for a check & was informed of the limited DR
charging system. I was also informed that if you did not run with headligt
it would fry the system. We have proved this to incorrect, but we also leave
the taillight on. I am sure this will bring some intellect to a debate, but
it don't matter cause I paid my $50.
-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>In a message dated 3/12/99 8:42:29 AM Mountain Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< >Anybody know how i can subscribe to the new DR350 list I've heard
about?
> >
> >Robert >>
>
>It's a quiet list because most of them are out trying to kick start their
>bikes ;-)
>
>Gino, Mr. 'Lectric, Pokluda
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Fw:N KLR breakdowns
Date: 12 Mar 1999 10:01:50 -0700

Where are you going the moon? Your chain & sprockets won't fail suddenly;
that's an awful lot to lug around. You'll know when they're about due; have
Fred send you a set. Also install Fred's magic, lifetime oil filter. That'll
remove the need to pack those crushables. That compressor's a great idea
though.  Bogdan

    although I will carry new chain (pre-cut)
    master links, both sprockets, rear tire, tubes and filter and good
tools. I
    mounted a small 12 volt compressor under a side cover with a
detachable hose
    for tire air.
    Its the weird stuff that others have encountered that I"m trying to
prepare
    for.
    Thanks, Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Non-KLR 650 tech question
Date: 12 Mar 1999 08:47:12 PST

     I have noticed from scanning the list that many listers have
     considerable experience with various motorcycles.  I have also noticed
     that some listers have a strong tech background.  So, at the risk of
     offending KLR 650 List purists here is my question:

        Do I have to replace the valve seats in my 1977 CB400 Four Super
        Sport in order to burn 92-94 octane unleaded fuel?  If so, where is
        a good source for replacement valve seats?

     I ask because I am embarking on a project to replicate a mid-1960s
     cafe racer and I want to use my '77 CB400 basket case as a base.


     Thanks in advance,


     Rob




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jason Ehler <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 12 Mar 1999 12:29:07 -0500

Looking for possible riding partner in the region of Hamilton Ontario,
Canada.  I'm a proud owner of a 1996 KLR 650.  Would like to ride
through the north eastern area of Ontario some time this summer.  A
great route was featured in Cycle Canada. (not sure offhand, think it
was either the Jan or Feb issue '99) .  Thanks.

Jason
KLR 650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 10:39:04 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>


>In a message dated 3/11/99 11:37:38 PM Central Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>

>Chris, you mean that if the rotor could be increased an unlimited amount,
the
>caliper and brake pad could be decreased an unlimited amount and still have
>the same braking? Is there any extra force needed for the extra inertial
force
>from the extra "flywheel" effect and could a cast iron rotor with more
>friction do the same as a bigger stainless steel rotor? Frank


Most laws of physics become unreliable as you approach infinity so I'd not
even hazard a guess about an infinite rotor.  But the idea is correct -
keeping in mind the force required to slow the bike a given amount doesn't
change just the way you achieve that force.  I would suggest that a slightly
larger rotor contributes a negligible increase in rotational inertia when
compared to the 400lbs bike and 200lb rider and luggage the brake must stop.

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 12 Mar 1999 10:41:04 -0700

www.saeng.com


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>>
>>I bought some Stealth edging at the BMW Rally this summer. Placed it on
the
>>windscreen and around the sides of the fairing. Very noticeable
improvement
>>in wind noise and buffeting. Whereas the wind was hitting right at the top
>>of my visor, now it`s clearing my helmet.
>>
>>Skip
>>
>>
>Does anyone happen to remember the link to the Saeng website?
>
>thanks,
>Jeff
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Moron Mechanics.... was NKLR breakdowns
Date: 12 Mar 1999 12:47:06 -0500

At 10:01 AM 3/12/99, Bogdan Swider wrote:
>Where are you going the moon? Your chain & sprockets won't fail
>suddenly........


While we're on the topic of the KLR's reliability and breakdowns, check
this out:
Yesterday, I informed a bike mechanic who I know (he's slow but thorough)
that I am going to Florida on my Tengai this Tuesday.
He looked at me like I was going to the moon!
He said, "Florida?... on a 650 single?... You better be ready for a rebuild
when you get back!"
He then looked at me like I was full of shit when I told him that people go
to Alaska and S. America on KLRs all the time.
What a moron!!!!
Mark
B2
A2

PS: He also thinks the internet is a gimmick and can't enhance his business
in any way.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Stealth edging
Date: 12 Mar 1999 10:47:51 -0700

It mounts very easily...maybe two minutes....and on a Clearview +9 its about
4ft  (I am guessing as its been a while)...on a stock windshield it would be
very little....just run a string around the outside of your windshield and
order that much!

But, I found it didn't do jack for me and it is expensive...I would not
recommend buying it.  However, that is just my experience...YMMV.

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>Hello Skip,
>
>I think I'm going to invest in some of that newfangled edging.  A couple
>of questions first...
>
>- How easy or difficult is it to fit and mount (I'll be putting it on
>the stock fairing and windscreen)?
>
>- How much length did you require for your fairing and windscreen (today
>would be the day I didn't ride my bike to work)?
>
>Thanks in advance, Juan Villarreal
>
>
>
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 10:10:19 -0800

Chris, Vik, et al:
I know the laws of physics become unreliable as they are "pushed to the
extreme". May I suggest that KLR front-end behavior would be even more
unreliable as the rotor size exceeds 21" (front wheel size)...

Seems, as always, that practical real-world life exerts its own limitations
long before the limitations of physics in its extremes come into play.
FWIW
Mike Magier
98 GroundHog (8000 mi and counting . . .)
>
>>Chris, you mean that if the rotor could be increased an unlimited amount,
>the
>>caliper and brake pad could be decreased an unlimited amount and still
have
>>the same braking? Is there any extra force needed for the extra inertial
>force



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)  - Driving MR. Michael NUTS..NKLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 11:05:41 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Stecyk <[e-mail]>
>To: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
><[e-mail]>
>Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 9:42 PM
>Subject: Re: (klr650)
>
>
>>> Dear Mr. KURT
>>> Error in message-to list  and Mr. Arne
>
>>> Dear MR. Arne
>>> Driving us nuts--buy H-D--

>..... I gotta tell you guys that I'm really PISSED right now; and I'm doing
>my best to vent in the most constructive manner possible.  You see, if it
>wasn't for Kurt's posting the other day on list etiquette, (sorry Kurt) I'd
>be inviting little Michael over to tell me to my face that I'm driving him
>nuts.  Then we could discuss "a united Canada".


Arne,

Don't let it get ya down.  Either Michael tried to make a joke that didn't
quite work or he is serious - the bottom line is it doesn't matter.  Any
list like this has all sorts of people on it and everybody wants something
different from the list.  There are a lot of posts on the KLR list I don't
have much interest in but I am sure others wait in eager anticipation for
them......live and let live I say.  If Michael or anyone else is truly fed
up with a topic or even a person it takes all of five seconds to filter them
straight to the deleted items bin.  As long as a post has something to do
with motorcycles, doesn't break common standards for decency or respect
nobody should get mad.  Its sort of like a big house party for KLRistas if
you are not having fun leave and come back when you are in the mood for it -
but don't expect the other 300 people to change just because you are
unhappy.

Arne keep asking questions/posting etc...I have enjoyed your posts for the
most part and the ones that didn't interest me I deleted (no offense).  I
asked (and still do) dumb questions and so when somebody new asks so what
about those front brakes or what about synthetic oil - I don't even
twitch.......just politely answer and maybe suggest the archives.

"...everything has a crack in it...that's how the light get's in....." -
Leonard Cohen

Back to are our regularly scheduled program....

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw:NKLR breakdowns
Date: 12 Mar 1999 13:41:53 -0500

Fred outlets are few and far between in South America.  That's why I'll be
bringing an extra set of tires/sprockets/tubes/chain.  oh yeah, about
driving to the moon, www.moonrider.org


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


Where are you going the moon? Your chain & sprockets won't fail suddenly;
that's an awful lot to lug around. You'll know when they're about due; have
Fred send you a set. Also install Fred's magic, lifetime oil filter. That'll
remove the need to pack those crushables. That compressor's a great idea
though.  Bogdan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR Moron Mechanics.... was NKLR breakdowns
Date: 12 Mar 1999 11:46:22 -0700

    That's why so many of us though we may lack time &
experience/talent, do more & more of our own work. Bogdan, Who doesn't need
to pay someone to screw up his bike when I can do it myself just fine.

    He then looked at me like I was full of shit when I told him that
people go
    to Alaska and S. America on KLRs all the time.
    What a moron!!!!
    Mark
    B2
    A2

    PS: He also thinks the internet is a gimmick and can't enhance his
business
    in any way.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Hirofumi A. Watanabe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Thunder & Lighting
Date: 12 Mar 1999 12:09:32 -0700

Vik wrote:
>"..everything has a crack in it..that's how the light get's in.."
>Leonard Cohen

Your crack reminded me of a recent quest for enlightenment.
I went looking for increased visibility for my FJ80 rear end.
The LED brake and turn signal solution from Grote Safety
Systems looked promising.

They are waterproof, brighter than tungsten bulbs, 100,000
hour service life, faster response and one-tenth the electrical
draw. I stumbled across this site with motorcycle applications.
Anyone had experience with this FL co. or any other moto LED co.?
http://members.aol.com/pkstaige/lifebrite.html

They've summoned up a Thundercloud..They're gonna hear from me -L.C.

Hiro  A10  'Thunderbolt'




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) NKLR RE: Saeng website
Date: 12 Mar 1999 14:13:21 -0500

>Does anyone happen to remember the link to the Saeng website?

Uh, Jeff....
 how about trying the obvious www.Saeng.com? ;)

Pat
Austin, TX
1997 KLR650 w/ 11.9K miles




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  Thunder & Lighting
Date: 12 Mar 1999 14:49:30 -0500

If at all possible purchase lights from a company that makes LEDs for
Transports because they will no doubt have the roughest service capabilites.
I can't comment on Bike applications but a few months ago my boss had to
replace all the LEDs on a brand new trailer because they weren't lasting.  I
hope you can find a safe place to mount your signals since they will
probably cost quite a bit more.

p.s. rock trucks and filament bulbs don't mix, you'd think Volvo BM would
know this buy now

-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>



>They are waterproof, brighter than tungsten bulbs, 100,000
>hour service life, faster response and one-tenth the electrical
>draw. I stumbled across this site with motorcycle applications.
>Anyone had experience with this FL co. or any other moto LED co.?
>http://members.aol.com/pkstaige/lifebrite.html





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) 2"
Date: 12 Mar 1999 11:59:09 PST

"...and add 2" for good measure..."

Excellent idea Kurt!  Now what was it you were saying about the edging?
;-)

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"



Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Desmond, Richard - TAFB/LASPO2" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Non-KLR 650 tech question
Date: 12 Mar 1999 14:00:50 -0600

Rob,

Unleaded's always been fine in mine. If I'm not mistaken, all Japanese bikes
from the late sixties on have hardened valve seats. If you remember, I'd
love to have a jpeg of the bike when you're done, sounds like a neat
project.

Rich CMRA #352

'99 SV650
'97 900CR
'86 RZ500 (for sale)
'85 RZ350 x 2
'86 XT350 (for sale)
'80 GS1000S
'76 CB400
racing EX's
>
> Do I have to replace the valve seats in my 1977 CB400 Four Super
> Sport in order to burn 92-94 octane unleaded fuel?  If so, where is
> a good source for replacement valve seats?
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Moron Mechanics.... was NKLR breakdowns
Date: 12 Mar 1999 15:46:56 -0500

Mark wrote:
> He then looked at me like I was full of shit when I told him that people go
> to Alaska and S. America on KLRs all the time.

I had two guys come up to me at Daytona while I was standing next to my
KLR and ask if people did the same thing. They said they had read the
articles in different magazines but didn't believe them; thought they
were fabricated for journalistic filler. I told them of two
international companies that rent KLR's for adventure touring (Pancho
Villa and Edelweiss) and several other smaller outfitters around the
country that have them in service. He looked at me like I was fried. I
gave him the website address for Ride to the Moon guys and said if he
couldn't believe the stories there, then he must have an overdeveloped
sense of paranoia. I asked what his aversion was to believing it? He
replied that singles just dont do that type of thing. I said "mine does,
sorry..." and left him woth words in his mouth.

Jake, Moronic by most accounts until I meet a KLR doubter....



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR - Suzuki GS500
Date: 12 Mar 1999 13:38:24 -0700

Sorry for the bandwidth, but I need some quick advice.

I have found a good price for my '85 GSX-R 750 at a dealer and they just
happen to have a '99 Suzuki GS500 in bright yellow that I like.  I would use
this for short street tours and to eventually get my GF on a bike.  Anyone
know anything bad about these bikes I should be aware of.  I want to get the
GSX-R out of my life fast so I need the input and this list is as close to
the Tomb of all Motorcycle knowledge as I have access to I thought I'd ask.

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Non-KLR 650 tech question
Date: 12 Mar 1999 12:59:47 -0800

>        Do I have to replace the valve seats in my 1977 CB400 Four Super
>        Sport in order to burn 92-94 octane unleaded fuel?  If so, where is
>        a good source for replacement valve seats?
>
>     I ask because I am embarking on a project to replicate a mid-1960s
>     cafe racer and I want to use my '77 CB400 basket case as a base.
>
My understanding is that its not the valve seats that is a problem with
running unleaded gas, but the wear between the valve stems and the valve
guides.  If your going to work on it anyway, replace the valves with
stainless, get new guides installed, and of course do the seats and lap the
valves in.  You shouldn't have any problems otherwise.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing - Stealth Edging
Date: 12 Mar 1999 16:44:33 -0500

At 09:38 PM 3/11/99 -0800, Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:
>I've been thinking about adding some "Stealth" edging around the stock
>screen.  Maybe that would get the wind stream over my helmet when I'm
>crouched over the tank at 80 MPH.

Jeff,
My experience with the Stealth Edge is that it doesn't raise the height of
the "quiet zone" much.  I'm 6' tall, and the Stealth Edge on the Clearview
shield actually created a more turbulent boundary layer at 60 mph or above,
and that layer shook my head up more than the bare shield.  So, I'm not
running Stealthily anymore.  Much more comfortable.  Maybe others have had
a better experience, though.

Stuart



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) O-kaaay....
Date: 12 Mar 1999 14:08:19 PST

Hmmm, on second thought...  I think I'll do a go around with regards to
the Stealth edging.  The stock setup keeps me plenty happy (I'm only
5'8") and the benefits of the edging seem debatable at best.  Thanks for
the inputs.  On to the tail-lights!

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Insurance (WA)(NKLR)
Date: 12 Mar 1999 14:17:25 -0800

Fellow WASHINGTON Riders,

If you own multiple motorcycles, this NEW bill will require insurance on
every one
of those motorcycles in your garage. I do not have a problem with having
to insure the bike I am riding but I cannot afford to insure the 5 other
bikes I have sitting in my garage. How many do you own?
This will only add to the obscene profits the insurance industry rakes in
every year.

The bill is currently going to the Financial/Insurance Committee chaired by
Rep. Hatfield and Rep. Dennison (sp?)
If you need more info contact Kelly Simpson at 360.786.7305
He will answer any questions you have.
And please contact your Representative if this concerns you.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

                              SENATE BILL REPORT
                                   SSB 5264
                        As Passed Senate, March 5, 1999

Title:  An act relating to requirements for operating a motorcycle on
Washington
   highways.

Brief Description:  Eliminating categories of motorcycle endorsement.

Sponsors:  Senate Committee on Transportation (originally sponsored by Senators
   Horn and Hochstatter).

Brief History:
   Committee Activity:  Transportation:  1/26/99, 2/9/99 [DPS, DNP].
   Passed Senate, 3/5/99, 42-4.

SENATE COMMITTEE ON TRANSPORTATION

   Majority Report:  That Substitute Senate Bill No. 5264 be substituted
   therefor, and the substitute bill do pass.
      Signed by Senators Haugen, Chair; Gardner, Vice Chair; Goings, Vice
Chair;
   Costa, Eide, Heavey, Horn, Jacobsen, Johnson, Oke, Patterson, Prentice,
   Sellar, Sheahan, T. Sheldon and Shin.

   Minority Report:  Do not pass.
      Signed by Senator Benton.

   Staff:  Kelly Simpson (786-7305)

   Background:  In order to drive a motorcycle on Washington highways a person
   must first hold a valid driver's license and then obtain one of three types
   of motorcycle endorsements. The different types of special motorcycle
   endorsements are determined by the engine displacement (or size) of the
   motorcycle.  In order to obtain the endorsement, a driver must pass a
   motorcycle endorsement examination conducted by the Department of Licensing
   (DOL).  Under current law, there are two ways to prepare for that
   examination: (1) a DOL sponsored motorcycle training class; and (2) a
   restricted motorcycle learner's permit that requires the learner to be under
   the visual supervision of an experienced motorcyclist.  Once licensed,
   motorcyclists are exempt from the mandatory liability insurance law.

   Summary of Bill:  A motorcycle endorsement authorizes the holder to operate
   any size motorcycle.  The Department of Licensing may waive the endorsement
   examination for persons who pass the department's class.  Those
motorcyclists
   holding a motorcycle learner's permit are allowed to drive on a controlled,
   limited access facility, and without visual supervision.  Motorcyclists must
   carry liability insurance in the following minimum amounts of coverage: (1)
   $10,000 property damage, (2) $25,000 for personal injury to or death of one
   person in any one accident, and (3) $50,000 for personal injury to or death
   of two or more persons in any one accident.

   Appropriation:  None.

   Fiscal Note:  Requested on January 21, 1999.

   Effective Date:  Ninety days after adjournment of session in which bill is
   passed.

   Testimony For:  Studies show that "single category" motorcycle endorsements
   do not negatively affect public safety.  Requiring motorcyclists to obtain
   financial responsibility closes a loophole in current law by preventing at-
   risk drivers from operating a motorcycle without first obtaining some
form of
   insurance.

   Testimony Against:  None.

   Testified:  PRO:  Senator Horn, prime sponsor; Karen York; Lynda Henriksen,
   DOL; Gary Sorensen, Puget Sound Motorcycle Education Assn.; Clark Sitzes,
   Allstate Insurance, (concerns with Section 6).

+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: NKLR- Driving MR. Michael NUTS
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:12:57 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 1:02:19 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Arne - viva le Quebec! >>
Arnie, I don't know whats happened to the list, I"ve gotten my chops slapped a
couple of times too.The aggregate experience and DS experience of the list is
substantial and most helpful, but this phase will pass and I appreciate your
questions and remarks, Viva the human race! Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Insurance (WA)(NKLR)
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:33:58 -0500

I thought it bad in New York. We have insurance requirements similar here.
Regardless of displacement or street legality, all vehicles must insured and
plated. That goes for all ATV's, except those used for snowplowing on one's
own property. I even have to insure my 9 yr son's XR80, even though 1- he's
nine, 2- it can never be ridden on, across or on the shoulder on any road.
I am insuring and plating it so we can use "LEGAL" riding areas in
neighboring states, as there are NO LEGAL AREAS in my own state, even though
that is one of the reasons for the plating policy on ORV's.
SDDS, same deal, different state.
Do we follow all the rules??? Aside from ATV's used for hunting, most never
get registered. They just don't enforce their rules (yet).
NY Pete
-----Original Message-----


>Fellow WASHINGTON Riders,
>
>If you own multiple motorcycles, this NEW bill will require insurance on
>every one
>of those motorcycles in your garage. I do not have a problem with having
>to insure the bike I am riding but I cannot afford to insure the 5 other
>bikes I have sitting in my garage. How many do you own?
>This will only add to the obscene profits the insurance industry rakes in
>every year.
>
>The bill is currently going to the Financial/Insurance Committee chaired by
>Rep. Hatfield and Rep. Dennison (sp?)
>If you need more info contact Kelly Simpson at 360.786.7305
>He will answer any questions you have.
>And please contact your Representative if this concerns you.
>
>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+++
>
>                              SENATE BILL REPORT
>                                   SSB 5264
>                        As Passed Senate, March 5, 1999
>
>Title:  An act relating to requirements for operating a motorcycle on
>Washington
>   highways.
>
>Brief Description:  Eliminating categories of motorcycle endorsement.
>
>Sponsors:  Senate Committee on Transportation (originally sponsored by
Senators
>   Horn and Hochstatter).
>
>Brief History:
>   Committee Activity:  Transportation:  1/26/99, 2/9/99 [DPS, DNP].
>   Passed Senate, 3/5/99, 42-4.
>
>SENATE COMMITTEE ON TRANSPORTATION
>
>   Majority Report:  That Substitute Senate Bill No. 5264 be substituted
>   therefor, and the substitute bill do pass.
>      Signed by Senators Haugen, Chair; Gardner, Vice Chair; Goings, Vice
>Chair;
>   Costa, Eide, Heavey, Horn, Jacobsen, Johnson, Oke, Patterson, Prentice,
>   Sellar, Sheahan, T. Sheldon and Shin.
>
>   Minority Report:  Do not pass.
>      Signed by Senator Benton.
>
>   Staff:  Kelly Simpson (786-7305)
>
>   Background:  In order to drive a motorcycle on Washington highways a
person
>   must first hold a valid driver's license and then obtain one of three
types
>   of motorcycle endorsements. The different types of special motorcycle
>   endorsements are determined by the engine displacement (or size) of the
>   motorcycle.  In order to obtain the endorsement, a driver must pass a
>   motorcycle endorsement examination conducted by the Department of
Licensing
>   (DOL).  Under current law, there are two ways to prepare for that
>   examination: (1) a DOL sponsored motorcycle training class; and (2) a
>   restricted motorcycle learner's permit that requires the learner to be
under
>   the visual supervision of an experienced motorcyclist.  Once licensed,
>   motorcyclists are exempt from the mandatory liability insurance law.
>
>   Summary of Bill:  A motorcycle endorsement authorizes the holder to
operate
>   any size motorcycle.  The Department of Licensing may waive the
endorsement
>   examination for persons who pass the department's class.  Those
>motorcyclists
>   holding a motorcycle learner's permit are allowed to drive on a
controlled,
>   limited access facility, and without visual supervision.  Motorcyclists
must
>   carry liability insurance in the following minimum amounts of coverage:
(1)
>   $10,000 property damage, (2) $25,000 for personal injury to or death of
one
>   person in any one accident, and (3) $50,000 for personal injury to or
death
>   of two or more persons in any one accident.
>
>   Appropriation:  None.
>
>   Fiscal Note:  Requested on January 21, 1999.
>
>   Effective Date:  Ninety days after adjournment of session in which bill
is
>   passed.
>
>   Testimony For:  Studies show that "single category" motorcycle
endorsements
>   do not negatively affect public safety.  Requiring motorcyclists to
obtain
>   financial responsibility closes a loophole in current law by preventing
at-
>   risk drivers from operating a motorcycle without first obtaining some
>form of
>   insurance.
>
>   Testimony Against:  None.
>
>   Testified:  PRO:  Senator Horn, prime sponsor; Karen York; Lynda
Henriksen,
>   DOL; Gary Sorensen, Puget Sound Motorcycle Education Assn.; Clark
Sitzes,
>   Allstate Insurance, (concerns with Section 6).
>
>+------------------------------------+
>|  CycoActive Products             tel [phone]
>|  701 34th Ave             fax [phone]
>|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
>|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
>|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
>+------------------------------------+
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Don't sweat it...
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:29:26 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 8:31:26 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< A person with a modicum of mechanical ability could easily forego the
 extension and ride in full confidence >>
Arnie, having been a dealer, I feel that the "hooligan's" view is legit. Take
the cash you would have spent for the exteded warranty and invest it for the 3
years, that way you have it for repairs and you have a bonus if nothing
happens, and if your bike gets stolen or destroyed (God forbid) then you
havent warranted a goner. Just an opinion about the KLR.Besides, if you use it
in competition or an (abusive) manner, the dealer may not warrant it anyway.
Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw:N KLR breakdowns
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:43:08 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 11:00:54 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Where are you going the moon? Your chain & sprockets won't fail suddenly;
 that's an awful lot to lug around >>
I guess, I've read too much Ted Simon and Danny Liska!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dimensionally Challenged
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:52:26 -0500

Will it fit??? Anything will fit, if your desparate enough. Back in my
"younger" days. I had an XT500 and a 1968 Chevy Nomad station wagon. To get
it where we rode, we laid that sucker on it's side and shoved it in the
back. OKayyyyy!!! so it leaked a little gas.....and oil.....and
flooded.......and took aloooong time to start......but we were 16/17/18
years old and we wanted to RIDE!!! Then I matured over the past 18 years,
just a little bit. More bikes and transporters (vans, mostly) later, we hit
on this idea: Using ratchet straps we put one hook on the front axle shaft
 depending on the bike) one hook over the handlebar and back down to the
other side of the axle, squashed the frontend with our body weight. Then we
ratcheted it down to bottom. We did a similar deal with the rear, hooking
one aroung the swing arm to itself, looping over the seat to the other side.
When all this was done, the bikes were short enough to be wheeled into the
back of a full-size van. we used to load 3 bikes this way into one van. The
first 2 in forwards, one on each side, one backwards in the middle.
Lots of fun, really. Now in my more "mature" age (33) if we don't ride
there, we use open bed pickups or trailers. Damn trailer worth every penny,
heh heh heh.
Good luck, NY Pete
-----Original Message-----


>I hope the collective group wisdom can help me out. On the specs for the
new
>KLR 650 the wheelbase is listed as 58.9". Is this measured from the point
>where the tyres touch the ground or from the longest point from the front
of
>the front tyre to the rear of the back tyre? Also what is the total height
>of the bike without mirrors- I guess from the top of the windshield to the
>floor?
>
>Alternatively you could just put me out of my misery and tell me if the KLR
>will fit inside an late model Astro/Safari van.
>
>Keep the interesting posts coming- this is a great resource.
>
>Cheers
>
>Phil
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:52:46 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 11:44:17 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Most laws of physics become unreliable as you approach infinity so I'd not
 even hazard a guess about an infinite rotor >>
Vik, Chris et al, I did flunk Physics, so I can't figure out how a bigger
rotor can stop any quicker without an increase in braking area (pads),  isn't
that why the really big boys use 6 piston calipers to increase pressure and
area of contact?I promise to drop this question after this. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Moron Mechanics.... was NKLR breakdowns
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:57:00 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 11:48:35 AM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< At 10:01 AM 3/12/99, Bogdan Swider wrote:
 >Where are you going the moon? Your chain & sprockets won't fail
 >suddenly........ >>
Bogdan, I suspect that the chain and sprockets won't fail suddenly, but I
don't want to go shopping for 520X106 O ring chain in Ushuaia one sunday with
a 250 mile per day schedule, and I'd rather be heavy than stranded.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: KLR list ettiquette, etc.
Date: 12 Mar 1999 15:02:05 -0800

-----Original Message-----


>Arne,
>
>Don't let anyone on this list bother you.  I slowly learned this over time.
>This list is probably the "kindest" group of folks I've run into.  Try
>asking a simple question on usenet if you REALLY want to see some
>inflammatory comments and suggestions! ;)
>
>Actually, some time ago I unsubscribed for a while as I was getting rather
>irritated.  We're all here to have fun aren't we?  So I took a break for a
>little while, then got back in.  The great thing is you can search the
>archives thanks to Kurt.
>
>If you don't buy a KLR by the end of the week, we are all going to show up
>at your door next weekend and drag you to a dealer with your checkbook!!!
;)


Thanks Eric.  BTW 99 03 12 @ 1300 hrs - A13 (used -  with only 27 kilometers
<big grin>)

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Battery tender converter...NKLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 18:05:11 -0500

I've done this very thing for my bikes. We have 5 now. All except the XR 80
(kickstart) need battery maintenence. I bought male/female plugs from my
local truckstop, they seem a bit heavier duty then whats availiable at
Walmart, made(?) sold by Bartran. I've soldered a female end to heavier duty
eyelets, sized to mount to the battery and sealed the joint. Mounted them
onto the batt. in question, and used a suitable sized rubber stopper to seal
the socket when not in use. The one male end, I soldered to my trickle
charger, and use a 2amp. fuse in the plug (cheap insurance). Now, what ever
bike not being used is put on charge. When all 4 are out-of-service, as in
winter, I charge "round-robin" fashion, each battery going "on charge" about
once every 4 days. This worked out well so far. As long as I watch the fluid
and don't forget to put my keys to *OFF* and not *PARK*, my batts. lasts a
long time.
Best of luck, NY Pete
-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
>To: List KLR <[e-mail]>
>Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 3:55 AM
>Subject: (klr650) Battery tender converter...NKLR
>
>
>>Does anyone know if I can get or make a converter for my battery tender
>plug (the
>>part that installs to the battery) with the battery tender two prong on
one
>end and a
>>standard cigarette lighter plug on the other? The idea is that I would
have
>only one
>>accessory cable (the battery tender) with an adaptor for other stuff...
>>
>>Is the cigarette lighter accessory plug the standard for accessories like
>heated
>>vests, grips, etc. I just took a glance at my Garmin plug and that is what
>it appears
>>to be...
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Kurt
>>
>
>I would lose the two-prong all together.  Unless you want to be able to
plug
>into other peoples tenders, I would just adapt the connection at both
ends -
>female cigarette plug on the bike, and a male plug on the charger.  This
>would keep it simple and the one plug could serve multiple purposes.
Unless
>the charging current is too heavy for the plug, but at 1 amp I can't see
>that being a problem.
>
>Arne
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Insurance (WA)(NKLR)
Date: 12 Mar 1999 18:16:55 -0500

I "think" the same rules apply here in Ontario too.  I've seen a few offroad
bikes with plates on them but I've never bothered to get one.  It may be law
to have a motorcycles drivers license (for off roading)  too but I don't
really care about that law either.  As long as you keep to trails that
aren't patrolled you should be okay.  There are too other things that we, as
off road enthusiasts, should also consider.  The first one being that "The
Sierra Club" should be crushed immediately.  Their mandate is to ban all
modes of transportation except for walking on public property.  The other is
the issue of trail clubs.  I know a lot of you will probably disagree with
me but please don't flame me.  They should be stopped for a number of
reasons.  All I see them doing is increasing the amount of trafic on once
tranquile trails and making us pay to use Crown Land (public property).  The
trail maintenance part is a non issue, I keep a saw and axe on my
snowmachine to clear anything on the trail and expect everybody else to do
the same.  I can't afford to pay 150$ just to use a trail that I could have
used anyway.  Stephen Rivett


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>I thought it bad in New York. We have insurance requirements similar here.
>Regardless of displacement or street legality, all vehicles must insured
and
>plated. That goes for all ATV's, except those used for snowplowing on one's
>own property. I even have to insure my 9 yr son's XR80, even though 1- he's
>nine, 2- it can never be ridden on, across or on the shoulder on any road.
>I am insuring and plating it so we can use "LEGAL" riding areas in
>neighboring states, as there are NO LEGAL AREAS in my own state, even
though
>that is one of the reasons for the plating policy on ORV's.
>SDDS, same deal, different state.
>Do we follow all the rules??? Aside from ATV's used for hunting, most never
>get registered. They just don't enforce their rules (yet).
>NY Pete





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Insurance (WA)(NKLR)
Date: 12 Mar 1999 18:37:06 -0500

Amazing isn't it? A very small minority who contribute no financials to the
economy as a group or society except to promote there own agenda, but they
get their way because they scream the loudest.
Anybody willing to damage/destroy other peoples property, willing to stretch
wire across trails, dig pits, and CUT DOWN TREES to block LEGAL ACCESS is
full of s...

-----Original Message-----


>I "think" the same rules apply here in Ontario too.  I've seen a few
offroad
>bikes with plates on them but I've never bothered to get one.  It may be
law
>to have a motorcycles drivers license (for off roading)  too but I don't
>really care about that law either.  As long as you keep to trails that
>aren't patrolled you should be okay.  There are too other things that we,
as
>off road enthusiasts, should also consider.  The first one being that "The
>Sierra Club" should be crushed immediately.  Their mandate is to ban all
>modes of transportation except for walking on public property.  The other
is
>the issue of trail clubs.  I know a lot of you will probably disagree with
>me but please don't flame me.  They should be stopped for a number of
>reasons.  All I see them doing is increasing the amount of trafic on once
>tranquile trails and making us pay to use Crown Land (public property).
The
>trail maintenance part is a non issue, I keep a saw and axe on my
>snowmachine to clear anything on the trail and expect everybody else to do
>the same.  I can't afford to pay 150$ just to use a trail that I could have
>used anyway.  Stephen Rivett
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Steamroller <[e-mail]>
>To: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
><[e-mail]>
>Date: March 12, 1999 5:33 PM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) Insurance (WA)(NKLR)
>
>
>>I thought it bad in New York. We have insurance requirements similar here.
>>Regardless of displacement or street legality, all vehicles must insured
>and
>>plated. That goes for all ATV's, except those used for snowplowing on
one's
>>own property. I even have to insure my 9 yr son's XR80, even though 1-
he's
>>nine, 2- it can never be ridden on, across or on the shoulder on any road.
>>I am insuring and plating it so we can use "LEGAL" riding areas in
>>neighboring states, as there are NO LEGAL AREAS in my own state, even
>though
>>that is one of the reasons for the plating policy on ORV's.
>>SDDS, same deal, different state.
>>Do we follow all the rules??? Aside from ATV's used for hunting, most
never
>>get registered. They just don't enforce their rules (yet).
>>NY Pete
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)  - Driving MR. Michael NUTS
Date: 12 Mar 1999 15:43:13 -0800

-----Original Message-----



>Arne, please stay calm...you are a good contributor alreay and are asking
excellent
>questions that benefit everyone...I hope you realize I was just
teasing...I'd like to
>think Mr. Michael was also jesting but it is hard to tell I agree...just
keep on
>keeping on...don't get riled...this is a friendly place...
>
>Peace my friend,
>
>Kurt

Thanks Kurt.  I don't mind being teased at all.  I have a sense of humor too
(I'm a cop, it's a definite necessity) but I don't think the other fellow
was teasing - he was serious.  There were two postings from him - the first
a legitimate response to my warranty question.  But in his following message
I believe he turned after realizing that it was me again asking the
question.  I think he's saying that if he would have realized it was me
before initially responding, he wouldn't have made the first post, but
instead say what he then did.

I've had other positive off-list mail from others here in response to this,
and all is well.  This in an excellent group and my jets have cooled.

Also, speaking of cooled, so has that burning sensation in my pocket...  I
bought a used A13 today with a whopping 27 kilometers (18 miles) on it.  I'm
pretty happy.  I've already ordered a set of Progressive front springs and a
coated steel-braided line for the front.  I forgot to check on what kind of
bash-plates the dealer can bring in - but I figured, get the front end
solved first and foremost.  Further, after selling my other bike and now
buying this one, I am $9,000 to the good.  This fact alone is having a very
positive effect on my wife.

Thanks to all - for all,

Arne





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Non-KLR 650 tech question
Date: 12 Mar 1999 15:53:54 -0800

-----Original Message-----


>        Do I have to replace the valve seats in my 1977 CB400 Four Super
>        Sport in order to burn 92-94 octane unleaded fuel?  If so, where is
>        a good source for replacement valve seats?


I remember reading of a fellow with a mid-70's BMW that did exactly that.
He installed hardened valve seats in order to be able to burn un-leaded.

As for a source, while a regular dealer might not be able to help, the place
to ask might be a bike shop that deals in racing/performance minded stuff.

Good luck

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dave Wormmeester <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Stealth edging
Date: 12 Mar 1999 18:55:47 -0800



"J.Taylor" wrote:

> Let us know how tall some of you are. I would like to try some of this
> but at 6'3", my helmet hangs a little higher out there. I'd be curious
> as to how tall you can be and still benefit from it- I still have the
> stock screen BTW.  Wish I had bought it at Daytona-was only $6 a foot
> there ("show special"?)
>
> Jake

I am 6'3" also.  I tried first a Clearview +7 and then added 2' of the stealth
edging.  Much less
wind blast which was great, however I had so much turbulence it was blurring
my vision with
and without the edging.

Dave W
Grand Rapids Mi.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Torque
Date: 13 Mar 1999 00:05:13 +0000

>
> Vik, Chris et al, I did flunk Physics, so I can't figure out how a bigger
> rotor can stop any quicker without an increase in braking area (pads),  isn't
> that why the really big boys use 6 piston calipers to increase pressure and
> area of contact?I promise to drop this question after this. Frank

OK.

The spoke connects the rim of the wheel (next to the tire/tyre) to the hub of
the wheel (next to the axle). Both ends of the spoke travel around the circle
described by the wheel at the same speed (velocity). The diameter of the wheel
at the hub is much smaller than the diameter of the wheel at the rim. So the
absolute distance that the spoke travels at the hub is much smaller than the
absolute distance at the rim.

If I were to place a braking surface at the hub of the wheel whatever contact
patch I had with it would only contact it as fast as it could move around the
hub (very small). The same size contact patch further out towards the rim would
contact it more as it moved around the circle.

So for one rotation of the wheel, more patch on the rotor will be contacted by
the brake pads as the rotor is moved further out towards the rim from the hub.
Thus more braking power.

Yes, if the brake pads were enlarged, then there would be more contact area. So
that would also increase braking power. Either change will work, but the rotor
is probably cheaper than the 6-piston caliper...

Sarah

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Don't sweat it...
Date: 12 Mar 1999 16:18:43 -0800


-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>In a message dated 3/12/99 8:31:26 AM Central Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< A person with a modicum of mechanical ability could easily forego the
> extension and ride in full confidence >>
>Arnie, having been a dealer, I feel that the "hooligan's" view is legit.
Take
>the cash you would have spent for the exteded warranty and invest it for
the 3
>years, that way you have it for repairs and you have a bonus if nothing
>happens, and if your bike gets stolen or destroyed (God forbid) then you
>havent warranted a goner. Just an opinion about the KLR.Besides, if you use
it
>in competition or an (abusive) manner, the dealer may not warrant it
anyway.
>Frank

Thanks guys I think you're on the money.  I can pull a wrench for most
stuff, and any manufacturers defects should rear their ugly heads within the
first year anyways.  I didn't think about the stolen bike scenario... that
would bite big time.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) FW: nklr
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:25:10 -0700




I'll stick up for Tortuga & his H.D. comment. (For the record, Arne, I've
enjoyed your posts.)  He was just kidding!! Anyway, you guys can't imagine
the pressure on a lone Ukrainian surrounded by Frenchman. I've done my time
in Canada; I know. Also his quip kept our "Friday Night Fights" tradition
alive. Party on, Bogdan



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 12 Mar 1999 16:32:01 -0800



>MN Ron (Aren, stay with us and ignore the little guys.  The only dumb
question
>is the one that isn't asked...)


Thanks Ron, I'm not going anywhere. Too much good information here.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Michael Kovaliv <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) March/April DSN [NKLR]
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:31:07 -0500

Gino,  just a quick note from Windsor, Canada that I got the DSN today.
Thanks.  I assume that's your DR on the front?  Very nice!

Mike Kovaliv
(A????)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw: KLR breakdowns
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:34:52 +0000

> just kill the motor, and roll and kick the bike back down into first and use
> the starter to get moving again.  Thankfully I haven't had to do this on my
> bike, but I did use this method to get my Bug home once, so its
> theoretically possible on the KLR.
>
> Jeff

Yup,

I've ridden bikes with broken clutch cables home and it is tricky.  Not
only that but the first thing you start looking for over the next few
weeks is burning oil from worn rings or leaking oil around the front
sprocket.  Anyways....once you get used to it you just get bold and
command the bike like it's a horse.  The Japanese transmissions are
generally pretty good and will take some temporary abuse.  Some people
drag race without using the clutch.  I found that if you kick it in
first on a roll it's not so abrupt and if you play with the throttle on
the upshifts it's not so bad either.  The tricky part is feeling your
way back down through the gears until you can get that neutral about 100
yds before you need to stop.  If your on a hill on a street then you
have to get off and walk it to a point where you can get the rolling
start again.  Bottom line is never get into a situation where you can't
anticipate the flow.  Forget bumper to bumper traffic.

But come to think of it......would it be possible to to take the cable
off, pull the broken end through the insulation, reattach the good end
to the right engine case hookup, run the cable up through the routing,
tie it off on something like a stick or something and hand pull the
cable direct? (without sawing a groove in the frame)  Of course this
would require a little forward lean.


Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)  - Driving MR. Michael NUTS
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:40:57 +0000

Then we could discuss "a united Canada".
>
> Arne - viva le Quebec!

Arne

I'm glad for this list and I've had my KLR for over 10 years.  I get
about 60 messages a day and read them all because of the valued info.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Rob Heywood <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR Fork Brace???
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:44:03 -0500

Does anyone remember the u-shaped aluminum fork braces you could buy for
Kaw moto forks?

Supposedly they increased rigidity. Does the new KLR fork need or could
it accommodate such a brace? Or this brace an old tech device??

Thanks,  Rob Heywood




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:43:25 -0500



[e-mail] wrote:

> In a message dated 3/12/99 11:44:17 AM Central Standard Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << Most laws of physics become unreliable as you approach infinity so I'd not
>  even hazard a guess about an infinite rotor >>
> Vik, Chris et al, I did flunk Physics, so I can't figure out how a bigger
> rotor can stop any quicker without an increase in braking area (pads),  isn't
> that why the really big boys use 6 piston calipers to increase pressure and
> area of contact?I promise to drop this question after this. Frank

Ah my friends we just so happen to have an engineer on the list.
Caution:  Heavy physics follows!
(for those other physics freaks out there, yes I know am am making some
simplifications.)
The type of physics involved here is called dynamics.  Let me set up the problem
for you.  You want to slow down the bike and you've decided to do this by
squeezing the front brake lever.  The following is what happens and why a bigger
rotor lets you stop faster.  (and its not just because of the torque arm!)

When you squeeze the brake lever pressure is exerted on the brake pads via the
caliper.  This pressure increases the friction between the pads and the rotor.
This frictional force is tangential to the edge of the rotor and in the direction
opposite of wheel spin.  This force is NOT the same on the larger rotor as it is
on the stock rotor!  Why? Because the frictional force is a function of the
molecular structures of the two materials (brake pad and rotor) AND of the speed
at which the two are passing.  Outside edge of the bigger rotor goes further than
the outside edge of the smaller rotor in the same amount of time (for a given
bike speed)  and therefore is moving faster to accomplish this feat.  (If you're
not convinced of this e-mail me)  So, we have determined that the frictional
force applied by the pads to the bigger rotor are greater than for the stock
rotor.

Also, as others have mentioned, the "torque arm" is lengthened.  What this means
is that the distance from the center of the wheel to the center of the frictional
force (not the center of the pads for the above reason) has increased.

The braking power is a function of the torque produced by this torque arm and
frictional force.  Torque is the integral of the frictional force over the area
of the brake pad, (from outside to inside or inside to outside but not side to
side) times the torque arm length.  This torque in the angular direction opposite
of wheel spin and counters two other main forces.  One is the inertia of the
wheel assembly (which may or may not be greater than with the stock rotor due to
the fact that the new rotor may have less angular inertia than the stock one.
(lighter steel, different placement of holes, etc.)) and the other is the
tangential force on the wheel at the tire/ground interface. (There are also small
frictional forces from bearings, air resistance etc.)  This braking torque acts
by overcoming the force at the tire/ground interface and changing the direction
of the force vector.  This new force vector is facing in front of the bike.  The
inertia of the wheel is simply resistance to change its angular momentum, but the
force applied by the tire to the ground overcomes the inertia as well.  So, the
braking force has overcome the other forces and the bike begins to slow down.
How is this really related to braking power?  Read on.

The integral of this braking force over some distance is the braking energy.  And
finally, the braking power is the integral of the braking energy over some time
during which braking is taking place. So,  I hope this cleared it all up for
everyone as to how a bigger rotor can provide more braking power  . :-)
-Tim Bootle






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: KLR list ettiquette, etc.
Date: 12 Mar 1999 16:50:33 -0800

-----Original Message-----


>    I take it you broke down and bought one !!!
>When do we ride ? My buddy from Abby and I are itch'n to get out on Cheam
again
>this year,,, tons of trails and fun...
>
>Chow
>Brian


Soon.... very soon.  I've ordered some progressives, and a steel braided
(covered) line for the front.  I want to throw on a bash plate too before I
hit the trails.  Let me know when you go and I'll let you know if I'm ready.

By the way - the front forks... Are they supposed to be flush with the
triple clamp where the top of the fork meets the top of the clamp?  Mine are
sticking up a good two inches - but the guy who had the bike was around
5'6",and dealership probably set it up for him accordingly (I'm 6'3").  He
seemed to think that this was the way it was supposed to be.

There are also two wires (with connectors on them) in behind the headlight
that are not hooked up to anything.  I haven't checked them to see if
they're hot or not, but the lights and signals work, so I'm wondering what
these wires are for.  The answer may be in the owners manual (he didn't have
it with him today so I'm waiting on it).

Thanks,

Arne





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) FW: nklr
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:05:36 -0800

-----Original Message-----


>I'll stick up for Tortuga & his H.D. comment. (For the record, Arne, I've
>enjoyed your posts.)  He was just kidding!!

Hey it's always good to have someone in your corner - and while I didn't
take what he said as an attempt at humor, if he was just kidding - great, I
read him wrong.

>Anyway, you guys can't imagine the pressure on a lone Ukrainian surrounded
by Frenchman.

Oh ya, my Sereant is from Quebec!!!

>I've done my time in Canada; I know.

Me too - lived here all my life.

Arne
Beautiful British Columbia, CANADA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Conall O'Brien)
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Saeng/TA dealer
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:25:54 -0800 (PST)

Sport Touring Accessories

http://www,dnet.net/~pemble

carries the Saeng/Ta product line (stealth edging. nightcutters) ,
Clearview and other cool brands. I bought some Lexan plastic armour for
my headlight glass from them awhile back and was happy.

Conall
http://www.angelfire.com/co/klr650/index.html




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: KLR list ettiquette, etc.
Date: 12 Mar 1999 20:24:52 EST

<< By the way - the front forks... Are they supposed to be flush with the
 triple clamp where the top of the fork meets the top of the clamp?  Mine are
 sticking up a good two inches - but the guy who had the bike was around
 5'6",and dealership probably set it up for him accordingly (I'm 6'3").  He
 seemed to think that this was the way it was supposed to be.>>

Arne, set them flush for your height.

 <<There are also two wires (with connectors on them) in behind the headlight
 that are not hooked up to anything.  I haven't checked them to see if
 they're hot or not, but the lights and signals work, so I'm wondering what
 these wires are for.  The answer may be in the owners manual (he didn't have
 it with him today so I'm waiting on it) >>

These wires are used on the European models (for extra driving lights?) but
are available for your use if you need them for an accessory.  I used one for
my headlight modulator.

Greg, A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fork Oil Level
Date: 12 Mar 1999 18:30:20

Hey All,

When I put my Progressives fork springs in I filled the fork oil up to
170mm below the top of the fork (Kawi recommended level).  This was after
asking around the list and having some tell me that had put that much in
and others telling me they had filled them to 140mm below the top of the
fork (Progressive Suspension recommended level).  I ride exclusively on the
street, and still wanted less dive, so I injected 27cc of fork oil into
each fork (with a syringe through the Schrader valve hole).  By my
calculation this was the amount needed to raise the oil level by the
desired 30mm.

This amount of additional oil did the trick, I won't be "experimenting"
with different lengths of preload spacers.  The front end is firmer but not
harsh and dive has decreased noticeably under moderate and heavy braking.
Thanks to Eric Dietiker for putting me on the right track.

Guy Cheney




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bruce  Hedquist" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) 12volt compressor?
Date: 12 Mar 1999 18:39:52 -0700

>I mounted a small 12 volt compressor under a side cover with a detachable
hose for tire air.

This sounds like a great idea.  What brand, where did you get it and where
did you mount it?   Also loved the idea about carrying extra chain, etc, tie
wrapped to the skid plate!





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 20:42:51 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 6:48:38 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<<  So,  I hope this cleared it all up for
 everyone as to how a bigger rotor can provide more braking power  . :-) >>
Thanks Tim, I forgot about integrals, tangents and vectors, I understand
now..........NOT ............but  it sounds right. I think just going to slow
down. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: KLR list ettiquette, etc.
Date: 12 Mar 1999 20:44:27 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 6:48:44 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< There are also two wires (with connectors on them) in behind the headlight
 that are not hooked up to anything >>
Arnie, one is a keyed HOT and the other is ground, I use them for my heated
hand grips, Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fork Brace???
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:57:04 -0800

Rob
Tim Bernard has something in the R&D phase. Stay tuned.
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Conall O'Brien)
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Sport Touring Access.
Date: 12 Mar 1999 17:58:00 -0800 (PST)

Whoops- subtle typo.

http://www.dnet.net/~pemble
Sport touring Accessories




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) oil changes
Date: 13 Mar 1999 01:55:14 +0000

OK. So I searched the archives and I'm going to go buy some Mobil 1
synthetic motor oil in a weight appropriate to the list in the manual.
15W50 or 10W40 depending on what the back of the can says is better for
So Cal conditions. If this is horribly wrong, please, somebody, stop me
before I do it.

Sarah

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Suzuki GS500
Date: 12 Mar 1999 20:48:39 EST

Vik, the GS 500 is a developed GS450 which was a great machine. We could
balance a nickle (US) on its end on the engine and rev it pretty high without
it falling.
I don't remember any weakness other that the occassional voltage reg on the
early ones. I"d go for it. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) O-kaaay....
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:12:24 -0700


-----Original Message-----



>the inputs.  On to the tail-lights!


Yes I highly recommend them...=)





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Clay <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)  - Driving MR. Michael NUTS
Date: 12 Mar 1999 20:18:03 -0600 (CST)


>Also, speaking of cooled, so has that burning sensation in my pocket...  I
>bought a used A13 today with a whopping 27 kilometers (18 miles) on it.  I'm
>pretty happy.  I've already ordered a set of Progressive front springs and a
>coated steel-braided line for the front.  I forgot to check on what kind of
>bash-plates the dealer can bring in - but I figured, get the front end
>solved first and foremost.  Further, after selling my other bike and now
>buying this one, I am $9,000 to the good.  This fact alone is having a very
>positive effect on my wife.
>
>Thanks to all - for all,
>
>Arne

Congratulations on the bike. I think you will like it. I've travelled by
KLR from Winnipeg to Victoria and back in each of the last two years, with
absolutely no mechanical problems [I have a '97]. I didn't bother with the
extended warranty, but instead spent the extra money on Manitoba's bizarre
motorcycle insurance rates. Ironically, the Valkyrie was the other bike I
was considering before I bought my KLR. I never did test one and am still
curious. Good luck.

Tom Clay
Winnipeg MB
Vive le KLR





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Insurance (WA)
Date: 12 Mar 1999 18:16:28 -0800

If you want to ride it on the street, it will have to be insured.  This is
new for WA, we somehow slipped thru the mandatory insurance thing that
occurred a few years back.  Not too suprising when you consider that all
the big buildings in every city you pass thru are INSURANCE companies.

Making insurance mandatory, then requiring it on every vehicle stinks of
collusion between the Insurance industry and State Government.  The driver
should be insured, not each vehicle.  They're jackin' us up.  Who can drive
two vehicles at once?  I wish someone could file a class-action suit to get
all that money back.

Tom

+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey P Moorbeck <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) oil changes
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:20:02 -0700 (MST)

On Sat, 13 Mar 1999, Sarah Barwig wrote:

> OK. So I searched the archives and I'm going to go buy some Mobil 1
> synthetic motor oil in a weight appropriate to the list in the manual.
> 15W50 or 10W40 depending on what the back of the can says is better for
> So Cal conditions. If this is horribly wrong, please, somebody, stop me
> before I do it.

I've been using the 15W50 in my '89 KLR since I purchased it two years
ago, no problems. I live in Tucson, AZ.  Previous owner was the one to
recommend it and used it in the bike. Now at 15,000.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) oil changes
Date: 12 Mar 1999 18:26:41 -0800

>OK. So I searched the archives and I'm going to go buy some Mobil 1
>synthetic motor oil in a weight appropriate to the list in the manual.
>15W50 or 10W40 depending on what the back of the can says is better for
>So Cal conditions. If this is horribly wrong, please, somebody, stop me
>before I do it.
>
>Sarah
>
>--
>Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
>There is a field.
>I'll meet you there.
>                -Rumi

To meet Rumi in a field and then dump your oil would be horribly wrong......

Tom

+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 18:55:36 -0800

>Ah my friends we just so happen to have an engineer on the list.
>Caution:  Heavy physics follows!
>(for those other physics freaks out there, yes I know am am making some
>simplifications.)


>When you squeeze the brake lever pressure is exerted on the brake pads via
the
>caliper.  This pressure increases the friction between the pads and the
rotor.
>This frictional force is tangential to the edge of the rotor and in the
direction
>opposite of wheel spin.  This force is NOT the same on the larger rotor as
it is
>on the stock rotor!  Why? Because the frictional force is a function of the
>molecular structures of the two materials (brake pad and rotor) AND of the
speed
>at which the two are passing.  Outside edge of the bigger rotor goes
further than
>the outside edge of the smaller rotor in the same amount of time (for a
given
>bike speed)  and therefore is moving faster to accomplish this feat.

Yada Yada Yada...good explanation, but I think that it is also important to
note that the frictional force isn't dependent (coefficient of kinetic
friction) upon the contact area of the brake pads.  The kinetic friction
force is determined solely by the coefficient of static friction between the
surface of the rotor and the pads (a constant number) and the amount of
force applied to the pads by the calipers, by the pistons, by the fluid
pressure, by the brake lever, by the hand squeezing the lever, discounting
any mechanical advantages in that system.  This was a hard concept for me to
grasp at first.

Say for instance, people assume that big fat tires have more traction on dry
pavement than skinny tires.  Taint so!  The static friction between the
tires and the road is determined solely by the weight of the car, and the
coefficient of static friction between the tires and the pavement.  I didn't
believe it until I experimented with this concept in the lab.  Say you have
a very heavy board, a 15 foot long 12 x 4, and you want to push it across
the floor.  It will not matter if the board is flat or on edge, the
frictional force opposing your push will be the same.

What the larger brake pads do is displace heat better, and wear more slowly.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Insurance (WA)(NKLR)
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:12:12 -0800



>Amazing isn't it? A very small minority who contribute no financials to the
>economy as a group or society except to promote there own agenda, but they
>get their way because they scream the loudest.
>Anybody willing to damage/destroy other peoples property, willing to
stretch
>wire across trails, dig pits, and CUT DOWN TREES to block LEGAL ACCESS is
>full of s...
>
>
>>I "think" the same rules apply here in Ontario too.  I've seen a few
>offroad
>>bikes with plates on them but I've never bothered to get one.  It may be
>law
>>to have a motorcycles drivers license (for off roading)  too but I don't
>>really care about that law either.  As long as you keep to trails that
>>aren't patrolled you should be okay.  There are too other things that we,
>as
>>off road enthusiasts, should also consider.  The first one being that "The
>>Sierra Club" should be crushed immediately.  Their mandate is to ban all
>>modes of transportation except for walking on public property.  The other
>is
>>the issue of trail clubs.  I know a lot of you will probably disagree with
>>me but please don't flame me.  They should be stopped for a number of
>>reasons.  All I see them doing is increasing the amount of trafic on once
>>tranquile trails and making us pay to use Crown Land (public property).


The Sierra Club enacted legislation is California a few years back
prohibiting off-road driving and riding in that state.  The problem is that
the bill required mandatory patrols to ensure compliance by law
enforcement....It was later determined that the patrols were causing more
trail erosion and damage than the original off-road traffic.  I'm pretty
green, but some of these environmental groups piss me off, when as an avid
hunter, I'm the one footing the bill for habitat maintenance by buying my
hunting and fishing license every year.  Most of those groups contribute
nothing but more problems...I'm really pissed off that right now a huge
consortium of environmentalists and sport fisherman have joined forces to
get the dams on the lower Snake and Columbia river torn down, because of the
salmon.  I personally think that the damage was done long ago by the dams,
and the new problems are those of pollution and run off by major
development, causing siltation in spawning beds.  Its like trying to cure a
headache with a guillotine.  The real losers will be the small farmers out
here who will have their water rights taken away, and won't be able to
afford to ship their crops to market.  They'll get foreclosed on, and the
big corporate farms will come in with their pesticide poisoned
produce....sigh.  What I don't understand, is if the salmon are endangered,
and I'm not debating that, why are they still allowing sport fisherman to go
after them, why are they still letting Native Americans (and those Americans
who claim to be) gillnet salmon as many salmon as they want to take, and why
are they letting huge commercial fleets use drag nets just off the mouth of
the Columbia River?  Why are they letting a non indigenous species of bird
catch 80 % of the salmon fry?

Environmental consciousness is a good thing, but it must be tempered with a
true understanding of the actual facts, and with the problems and hardships
of the people who actually live and work in the affected habitat.

My $5.00 worth (inflation)

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:20:54 -0800

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>Say you have a very heavy board, a 15 foot long 12 x 4, and you want to
push it across
>the floor.  It will not matter if the board is flat or on edge, the
>frictional force opposing your push will be the same.

So what you're saying then is that I've been wrong all these years believing
that my size 14 feet have been providing me with better traction?


>What the larger brake pads do is displace heat better, and wear more
slowly.

>Jeff



So then I guess the upside is that the soles of my shoes aren't wearing out
as fast and my feet stay cooler. =^)

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Insurance (WA)
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:36:53 -0800



>If you want to ride it on the street, it will have to be insured.  This is
>new for WA, we somehow slipped thru the mandatory insurance thing that
>occurred a few years back.  Not too suprising when you consider that all
>the big buildings in every city you pass thru are INSURANCE companies.
>
>Making insurance mandatory, then requiring it on every vehicle stinks of
>collusion between the Insurance industry and State Government.  The driver
>should be insured, not each vehicle.  They're jackin' us up.  Who can drive
>two vehicles at once?  I wish someone could file a class-action suit to get
>all that money back.
>
>Tom
I take it that the insurance companies will scale their rates according to
the motorcycle like they do for cars?  Does this mean that we are going to
get hosed because our bikes are the equivalent of SUV's?  I don't understand
why they are trying to push this now, when its always the rider that get
hurt.  I tried to get medical insurance for myself and passenger with my
insurance, and the amount of coverage that they offered was PITIFUL!  I
understand that the majority of accidents with motorcycles is shifting from
the fault of the cage driver who didn't see the bike, to bikers who fail to
negotiate a corner safely and crash "single vehicle accidents"  If this is
the case, then no harm is done to anyone other than the rider and his bike,
and liability won't cover this.  I think that all insurance, other than
homeowners, is a total rip-off.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) March/April DSN [NKLR]
Date: 12 Mar 1999 22:42:17 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 5:32:40 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Gino,  just a quick note from Windsor, Canada that I got the DSN today.
 Thanks.  I assume that's your DR on the front?  Very nice! >>

When I took the picture, it wasn't mine yet.  I bought it a couple of weeks
later.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fork Brace???
Date: 12 Mar 1999 22:45:07 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 7:01:34 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Tim Bernard has something in the R&D phase. Stay tuned. >>

So does Steve at Quality Engine R&D.  Who will get done first?

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:57:16 -0800


>So what you're saying then is that I've been wrong all these years
believing
>that my size 14 feet have been providing me with better traction?
>

Thats right.  You have better traction not because your feet are bigger, but
because you weigh more than someone with smaller feet.  In physics, its like
this.  Your body has mass.  The acceleration due to gravity times your mass
results in the force of gravity.  Newton said that for every action there's
an equal and opposite reaction.  So the ground pushes back with the same
amount of force, called the Normal force.  Between your feet and the ground
there is some coefficient of static friction (unless you are sliding, then
its a different coefficient, of approximately half the magnitude-depends).
Anyway, this coefficient, times the normal force, is the maximum amount of
static friction force that you can have.  So, say you weigh 100 Kg (nice
even #), then your normal force is 100 x 9.81 meters per second per second.
Say the coefficient of static friction is .4, then the max static frictional
force for traction that you'd have is 392.4 Newtons.  Simple huh?  Of course
that's for both feet.

Jeff--just thought I'd share the physics.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Another list possibly?
Date: 12 Mar 1999 22:59:57 -0500

I was wondering, since I'm one for a good debate, could we have a second
message board where we can take the threads that won't die?  It could also
be used to discuss NKLR topics since I haven't seen a list for them either.
Thanks, Stephen Rivett.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Helmet tail light (NKLR)
Date: 12 Mar 1999 20:08:57 PST

>From: "Karl Huebner" <[e-mail]>

>Juan:
>
>I e-mailed the helmet tail light guy and have not gotten a response as
of
>yet.  Do you know how much the units cost?

Karl,
I spoke to a fella named Corey...  He quoted me a price of $69.95, plus
$6 for shipping and handling.  They (Hercules JRP, Inc.) have a toll
free number (1-800-800-4920), but it was always busy.  I instead dialed
their regular number (570-992-5754).  They take only credit card orders
or money orders (no personal checks).  Part number is 3100, and their
address is as follows:

                 R.D., Box 1416
                 Stroudsburg, PA  18360

Best of luck to you.  Juan Villarreal

Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR - Winnipeg to Victoria
Date: 12 Mar 1999 19:08:09 -0800

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>



>Congratulations on the bike. I think you will like it. I've travelled by
>KLR from Winnipeg to Victoria and back in each of the last two years, with
>absolutely no mechanical problems [I have a '97]. I didn't bother with the
>extended warranty, but instead spent the extra money on Manitoba's bizarre
>motorcycle insurance rates. Ironically, the Valkyrie was the other bike I
>was considering before I bought my KLR. I never did test one and am still
>curious. Good luck.
>
>Tom Clay
>Winnipeg MB
>Vive le KLR



Give me a heads-up your next time through.  I live 2 minutes away from the
Tim Horton's on the west side of Abbotsford, BC.  It's the one by the
Automall and big clock.  Right at the Mt. Lehman freeway exit.  I'll meet
you for coffee there.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - KLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 23:39:02 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 8:52:52 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< but I think that it is also important to
 note that the frictional force isn't dependent (coefficient of kinetic
 friction) upon the contact area of the brake pads >>
Then a brake pad the size of the head of a pin would be the same? Maybe a pin
head size brake pad would dissipate heat better like a four valve head instead
of the conventional 2 (bigger) valve head
It seems like it is easy to lock up the rear disc brake, but the rotor is
about the same size, the force is greater because our leg is stronger than our
hand. And a full floater stops better than a fixed rotor because it 'aligns'
with the pads in the caliper better, allowing the piston to apply more force
to the rotor
I guess I don't think that bigger is always better, but I know that 50 % of
the population probably does.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fork Brace???
Date: 12 Mar 1999 21:03:09 -0800



[e-mail] wrote:

> In a message dated 3/12/99 7:01:34 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << Tim Bernard has something in the R&D phase. Stay tuned. >>
>
> So does Steve at Quality Engine R&D.  Who will get done first?

And will they be able to produce them in quantity before Moab?;-)
b


>
>
> Gino






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 21:47:36 -0800

>Then a brake pad the size of the head of a pin would be the same? Maybe a
pin
>head size brake pad would dissipate heat better like a four valve head
instead
>of the conventional 2 (bigger) valve head

Theoretically, but the heat would be localized on the head of that pin, not
dissapated over a larger area.  Also, this would wear quite the groove in
the rotor.

>It seems like it is easy to lock up the rear disc brake, but the rotor is
>about the same size, the force is greater because our leg is stronger than
our
>hand. And a full floater stops better than a fixed rotor because it
'aligns'
>with the pads in the caliper better, allowing the piston to apply more
force
>to the rotor

Also, when you are stopping, your center of gravity has shifted forward, and
the rear wheel gets "lighter", thus less normal force, and thus the friction
between the tire and the road can turn from static friction to kinetic
friction real easy.

Jeff---working on a difficult inertial integral at the moment.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 22:05:58 -0800

When you squeeze the brake lever pressure is exerted on the brake pads via
the
>caliper.  This pressure increases the friction between the pads and the
rotor.
>This frictional force is tangential to the edge of the rotor and in the
direction
>opposite of wheel spin.  This force is NOT the same on the larger rotor as
it is
>on the stock rotor!  Why? Because the frictional force is a function of the
>molecular structures of the two materials (brake pad and rotor) AND of the
speed
>at which the two are passing.  Outside edge of the bigger rotor goes
further than
>the outside edge of the smaller rotor in the same amount of time (for a
given
>bike speed)  and therefore is moving faster to accomplish this feat.  (If
you're
>not convinced of this e-mail me)  So, we have determined that the
frictional
>force applied by the pads to the bigger rotor are greater than for the
stock
>rotor.
>
Can you please explain to me, via an equation, how the relative velocities
between the pads and the rotor factor into computing the frictional force?
As far as I know, contact friction is computed by multiplying the normal
force (i.e. pressure of the pads on the rotor) by the coefficient of kinetic
friction, which is a dimensionless scaler.  The coeffecient of kinetic
friction doesn't change, its experimentally determined by the nature of the
compounds in contact, in this case, steel and brake liner.  In this regard,
the tangential frictional force on the rotor is determined only by the
magnitude of the force of the calipers onto the pads.

Say you have a kid sliding down a very long slide.  There is a coefficient
of kinetic friction between the kid's butt and the metal (or plastic, as new
slides tend to be--caused quite the static charge!).  The kid has a normal
force that is determined by the angle of the slide from the ground, and the
kid's weight.  This normal force is a vector that points directly up from
the surface of the slide, and is determined by the vector component of the
kids force due to gravity, which points straight down.  Follow?  The force
due to kinetic friction is the normal force times the coeffecient of kinetic
friction.  So this kid is still accelerating due to gravity faster and
faster.  Are you saying that the force of friction increases due to the
increased velocity?  I think that the only thing that would increase is the
heat that the kid feels on his butt.  But nothing has changed the equation,
and thus the kinetic frictional force is constant.  In this regards, the
explaination of a longer moment arm explains perfectly why a larger diameter
rotor works better.

If I am wrong, let me know, but I can't find anything in my texts to
contradict this.  With other types of friction, like with fluids, it does
increase with increasing velocity, like with wind drag.

Jeff






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Richard Ohnstad <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Another list possibly?
Date: 12 Mar 1999 23:13:09 -0700



I vote to stick with one list.

Richard Ohnstad
Tucson, AZ
'94 KLR




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Another list possibly? - NKLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 23:11:00 -0800

Yes its called the DUST list, but it doesn't get much traffic.  If you
prefer not to read NKLR messages why not just filter them to your deleted
items bin?

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>I was wondering, since I'm one for a good debate, could we have a second
>message board where we can take the threads that won't die?  It could also
>be used to discuss NKLR topics since I haven't seen a list for them either.
>Thanks, Stephen Rivett.
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Helmet tail light (NKLR)
Date: 12 Mar 1999 23:12:59 -0800

I spoke with them also.  We can get them for $48.xx if we order them in
quantities of 10 (which is a case).  This is the wholesale price and I or
somebody else with a business would have to do the ordering.

Cheers,

VIk




-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>>From: "Karl Huebner" <[e-mail]>
>
>>Juan:
>>
>>I e-mailed the helmet tail light guy and have not gotten a response as
>of
>>yet.  Do you know how much the units cost?
>
>Karl,
>I spoke to a fella named Corey...  He quoted me a price of $69.95, plus
>$6 for shipping and handling.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Another list possibly? - NKLR
Date: 12 Mar 1999 23:25:42 -0800


>-----Original Message-----
>From: Stephen Rivett <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR650-List <[e-mail]>
>Date: Friday, March 12, 1999 7:59 PM
>Subject: (klr650) Another list possibly?
>
>
>>I was wondering, since I'm one for a good debate, could we have a second
>>message board where we can take the threads that won't die?  It could also
>>be used to discuss NKLR topics since I haven't seen a list for them
either.
>>Thanks, Stephen Rivett.
>>
>>


I think you could do this on your own by filtering and NKLR postings to the
place of your own choosing - ie. delete bin, or one you create yourself.
Haven't done it myself so I'm not sure.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR
Date: 13 Mar 1999 03:25:37 -0500



Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:

> Can you please explain to me, via an equation, how the relative velocities
> between the pads and the rotor factor into computing the frictional force?

> If I am wrong, let me know, but I can't find anything in my texts to
> contradict this.  With other types of friction, like with fluids, it does
> increase with increasing velocity, like with wind drag.
>
> Jeff

Jeff, your first response was correct except that you confused the words kinetic
and static friction.  Brake pads under braking undergo kinetic friction. Tires
when not slipping undergo static friction.  You were right about the size of the
brake pads.  There is only so much force available and it will be spread out
across whatever size pad is there.  The coefficient of kinetic friction does
change based on the size of the pad but the braking force does not.  (when
simplyfing by centering  the braking force of each size pad the same distance
from the center of the wheel.)

As for your second e-mail, which I have copied a portion of above.  Yes I can.
The formula is F=ma.  You are thinking in terms of F=mv.  That is the force is
equal to the mass times the acceleration.  All other formulas needed can be
derived from this one.  You are thinking in terms of F=mv. This type of physics
we are dealing with is called dynamics.  It is the studies of bodies undergoing
acceleration.  A statics representation of this formula would be F=mv or F=md/t
or where acceleration had been replaced by velocity and mass over time had been
replaced by the coeficient of kinetic friction.   The formula we need to use is
F=ma or F=md/dt(d/t) where d/dt(d/t) is the derivative of or change in
distance/time as a function of time.  The torque exerted by the brakes IS a
function of how fast the rotor is turning because it is a function of the
frictional force.  The frictional force is greater on a bigger rotor because it
is turning faster.  Why?  Because there is more movement per revolution of the
wheel.  (the distance is greater.-more rotor passes the pads) Since the rotor
under the pads is turning faster than the stock rotor would be, it is going
further for a given MPH of the bike.   So if you are figuring a torque why is
the distance important?  Because in an angular system you have to consider the
angular force, which is a factor of acceleration (the change in the change in
the distance as a function of time) Thinking about this from a statics viewpoint
it does not make sense.  But since the wheel is slowing it has an angular
velocity which is decreasing.  This is a negative angular acceleration.  The
torque that the brakes provide is not a static torque like that when using a
torque wrench.  It is a dynamic torque which provides negative angular
acceleration.

(In your defense, In my original answer to Frank's question I did explain it as
if it was a static torque.  You can't find any formulas for it because you
probably don't have a dynamics book.  The first 4 to 6 semesters of college
physics don't cover dynamics. It is a specialty course for physics majors and
engeneers.)

-I hope this helps.  :-)

Tomorrow's lesson, the molecular physics of semiconductor doping as an
explaination for the long advertised life of LED tailights and brakelights and
of insulating base materials as an explaination of their short street life.
-No, just kidding.  I'll try to stay away from heavy physics from now on.  I
just could not resist today. -Tim




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Don't sweat it...
Date: 13 Mar 1999 05:11:49 -0600

Arne Larsen wrote:
=20
> Thanks guys I think you're on the money.  I can pull a wrench for most
> stuff, and any manufacturers defects should rear their ugly heads withi=
n the
> first year anyways.  I didn't think about the stolen bike scenario... t=
hat
> would bite big time...



and hungree adds...The other side of the coin...

Preface: I've never bought extended warranty for a motorcycle because
the last time I bought a new bike it was still unheard of...but I HAVE
bought extended warranty for several cars.

There have been very good points made (against) so far, but:

1..  I've traditionally looked on extended warranty as good financial
protection for 'one lousy extra payment, (maybe two?)'.

2..  It's 'insurance'...if I never needed it, I don't cry about money
wasted, I'm happy that it only cost me that 'extra payment' for a REALLY
GOOD, defect-free, car (bike).

Someone recently had a cracked case near the drain plug (??).  What if
that happened about 2 years into his ownership?

And...we may think in terms of 'one' major repair...what if one got a
'bad' bike that BROKE two or three times ?!?!

Extended warranty is a bit like a cheap tire or a cheap chain - you can
pay less NOW, but it *might* cost ya - BIG TIME - down the road.

ch-ching...another 2=A2 (CDN)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR fairing
Date: 13 Mar 1999 05:23:48 -0600

Arne Larsen wrote:

> Do I dare ask what "stealth" edging is?

> Arne (Gun-shy??? Me???)



You just ask away!  I've learned stuff from answers to your questions!

That's a point that maybe gets missed...an answered question may benefit
many more people than just the one who asked...

hungree



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR
Date: 13 Mar 1999 07:51:06 EST

In a message dated 3/12/99 11:42:16 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Subj:     Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR >>
It's 6:30 Saturday morning and after considering all the explanations of why
the bigger rotor is beter, I see the light!
Ithink a bigger rotor will be heavier (unless it is carbon fiber) and not sure
the extra unsprung weight and inertial mass is worth it, but I now can
visualize how a bigger rotor applies more force to the contact patch. Thank
you for your patience everyone.
Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (nklr) land usage, my apologies
Date: 13 Mar 1999 08:21:34 -0500

On the subject of land usage, I extend my apologies for bringing up a "hot
potatoe" subject to this board. Based on my e-mails, this is a subject that
is frowned upon.
However I don't apologize for my opinion, I'm entitled to that as everyone
else. But I will refrain from bringing up this topic in the future.
Again, my apologies, NY Pete




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dave Wormmeester <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR
Date: 13 Mar 1999 09:08:10 -0800

>
> As for your second e-mail, which I have copied a portion of above.  Yes I can.
> The formula is F=ma.  You are thinking in terms of F=mv.  That is the force is
> equal to the mass times the acceleration.  All other formulas needed can be
> derived from this one.  You are thinking in terms of F=mv. This type of physics
> we are dealing with is called dynamics.  It is the studies of bodies undergoing
> acceleration.  A statics representation of this formula would be F=mv or F=md/t
> or where acceleration had been replaced by velocity and mass over time had been
> replaced by the coeficient of kinetic friction.   The formula we need to use is
> F=ma or F=md/dt(d/t) where d/dt(d/t) is the derivative of or change in
> distance/time as a function of time.  The torque exerted by the brakes IS a
> function of how fast the rotor is turning because it is a function of the
> frictional force.  The frictional force is greater on a bigger rotor because it
> is turning faster.  Why?  Because there is more movement per revolution of the
> wheel.  (the distance is greater.-more rotor passes the pads) Since the rotor
> under the pads is turning faster than the stock rotor would be, it is going
> further for a given MPH of the bike.   So if you are figuring a torque why is
> the distance important?  Because in an angular system you have to consider the
> angular force, which is a factor of acceleration (the change in the change in
> the distance as a function of time) Thinking about this from a statics viewpoint
> it does not make sense.  But since the wheel is slowing it has an angular
> velocity which is decreasing.  This is a negative angular acceleration.  The
> torque that the brakes provide is not a static torque like that when using a
> torque wrench.  It is a dynamic torque which provides negative angular
> acceleration.
>
> Tomorrow's lesson, the molecular physics of semiconductor doping as an
> explaination for the long advertised life of LED tailights and brakelights and
> of insulating base materials as an explaination of their short street life.
> -No, just kidding.  I'll try to stay away from heavy physics from now on.  I
> just could not resist today. -Tim

Come on guys this is a list about KLRs.  Please take this off list.  I have been I
this
list since the begining and it has been great, all of it, not just the KLR stuff so
I don't
want to skip all the post labeled NKLR.  If there is nothing left to say about the
bikes
lets talk about riding them.  Kurt loved your tale on camping.  Anyone else?

Dave W
Grand Rapids Mi.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fork Brace???
Date: 13 Mar 1999 06:47:22 -0800

Who can say?
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Moody <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Questions
Date: 13 Mar 1999 09:57:43 -0500

OK Listers.
I just got a free (yes, free)  94 KLR650 with 6086 miles.  Only problem
is, it was left in the weather for two years, along with the stator
being bad, plus the starter solenoid being missing.  The previous owner
had the stator and gasket, but never did put them in.
Seems he couldn't get the bike to turn over, so he took it to a shop
which diagnosed the stator being bad, what a bunch of BS, but since the
original stator was missing, I couldn't check it out.

I ordered the service manual from Banzai along with the microfiche.
I've already installed the stator, and a solenoid, and troubleshot the
starting system, (turns out the start button was corroded).  Ran it last
night with new oil and filter about 30 seconds.  Gonna hook up an aux
fuel container today to run it for a hour before changing the oil again
(did I mention the cup of water that was in the crankcase?).

I've still got to:

Get a new chain
Flush the brakes
Check valve clearance (next oil change)
get misc small missing parts


OK, enough background.

Are there any REAL trouble areas in the KLR?  Has anyone had Sargent
recover their seat?  What kind of suspension mods are recommended? Are
there any good sources of used KLR parts?

Thanks!


--
Bryan Moody
Greensboro, NC
86 Concours, 93 KLR650
COG Southeast Area Director http://www.concours.org/se

IronButt Association: BBG, CCC Gold



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alan Henderson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: KLR list ettiquette, etc.
Date: 13 Mar 1999 10:09:27 -0600

>Thanks Eric.  BTW 99 03 12 @ 1300 hrs - A13 (used -  with only 27 kilometers
><big grin>)
>
>Arne
>

Congratulations! Have fun! Alan Henderson, Iowa A13





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dale Borgeson <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (KLR650) Oil changes
Date: 13 Mar 1999 12:02:36 -0600 (CST)

I'll second the use of Mobil 1.

I've been using Mobil 1 15W50 in my KLR for 4 years.

The positives are

1) smoother shifting

2) smoother and more predictable clutch engagement.

The negatives are

1) Mobil 1 is more expensive.

Cheers
--
Dale Borgeson    [e-mail]    Minneapolis, MN U.S.A.
"Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (KLR650) Oil changes
Date: 13 Mar 1999 13:20:32 +0000

At 12:02 PM 3/13/99 -0600, Dale Borgeson wrote:
>I'll second the use of Mobil 1.
>
>I've been using Mobil 1 15W50 in my KLR for 4 years.
>
>The positives are
>
>1) smoother shifting
>
>2) smoother and more predictable clutch engagement.


    All true.



>The negatives are
>
>1) Mobil 1 is more expensive.


    Not than motorcycle-specific oils like Golden Spectro, which did not work
worth a damn in my KLR.



-Tom
'96 KLR 650
32,700 miles




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Conall O'Brien)
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Night vision
Date: 13 Mar 1999 10:58:26 -0800 (PST)

Now that Cadillac has announced the first fully-intergrated night vision
system with heads up display(HUD) in a production vehicle (seville
yr-2000), any guesses how long it will be before someone puts one on a
motorcycle?
2 to 3 yrs?  BMW-?- maybe Honda?
wow

http://www.car.net.au/news/archive9809/gmh980903.htm
link to Cadillacs' night vision w/HUD

Conall
[e-mail]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Reality check, KLR Model
Date: 13 Mar 1999 14:34:53 +0000

It's Saturday and,

while I was charging my battery and having a Heineken I was admiring my
machine and thinking about how soon it will be before it'll be doing Mt.
Greylock, MA.  Suddenly it occured to me that the bike may possibly be
an A1, not an A2, based on the date of manufacture.  But I'm not sure.
The registration called it a KL650AZ and I just assumed they mistook the
2 for a Z.  Anyways....

All this time I assumed I was riding an A2, but the 11/97 date on the
bike I.D. tag that is on the front frame up near the steering stem head
plus the model just being called a KLR650A makes me wonder if this is
indeed an A1.  I bought the bike as a 1988.  I thought the numbers on
the paperwork indicated an A2.  Anyone have else think this may be an
A1?

Jeff
A?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR
Date: 13 Mar 1999 11:54:13 -0800

>Jeff, your first response was correct except that you confused the words
kinetic
>and static friction.  Brake pads under braking undergo kinetic friction.
Tires
>when not slipping undergo static friction.  You were right about the size
of the
>brake pads.  There is only so much force available and it will be spread
out
>across whatever size pad is there.  The coefficient of kinetic friction
does
>change based on the size of the pad but the braking force does not.  (when
>simplyfing by centering  the braking force of each size pad the same
distance
>from the center of the wheel.)

I dissagree.  The coeffecient of kinetic friction doesn't depend on the area
dA of the brake pad, and is therefore constant.  It is the nature of the two
surfaces in contact, not the magnitude of the area.
>
>As for your second e-mail, which I have copied a portion of above.  Yes I
can.
>The formula is F=ma.  You are thinking in terms of F=mv.  That is the force
is
>equal to the mass times the acceleration.  All other formulas needed can be
>derived from this one.  You are thinking in terms of F=mv. This type of
physics
>we are dealing with is called dynamics.  It is the studies of bodies
undergoing
>acceleration.  A statics representation of this formula would be F=mv or
F=md/t
>or where acceleration had been replaced by velocity and mass over time had
been
>replaced by the coeficient of kinetic friction.   The formula we need to
use is
>F=ma or F=md/dt(d/t) where d/dt(d/t) is the derivative of or change in
>distance/time as a function of time.  The torque exerted by the brakes IS a
>function of how fast the rotor is turning because it is a function of the
>frictional force.  The frictional force is greater on a bigger rotor
because it
>is turning faster.  Why?  Because there is more movement per revolution of
the
>wheel.  (the distance is greater.-more rotor passes the pads) Since the
rotor
>under the pads is turning faster than the stock rotor would be, it is going
>further for a given MPH of the bike.   So if you are figuring a torque why
is
>the distance important?  Because in an angular system you have to consider
the
>angular force, which is a factor of acceleration (the change in the change
in
>the distance as a function of time) Thinking about this from a statics
viewpoint
>it does not make sense.  But since the wheel is slowing it has an angular
>velocity which is decreasing.  This is a negative angular acceleration.
The
>torque that the brakes provide is not a static torque like that when using
a
>torque wrench.  It is a dynamic torque which provides negative angular
>acceleration.
>
>(In your defense, In my original answer to Frank's question I did explain
it as
>if it was a static torque.  You can't find any formulas for it because you
>probably don't have a dynamics book.  The first 4 to 6 semesters of college
>physics don't cover dynamics. It is a specialty course for physics majors
and
>engeneers.)

I do have a dynamics book, but that's next term for me.  But we did cover
this in physics.  Actually, everything I studied in Statics this term was
covered in physics too.  (professor was a Nobel winner--tough class).  I
understand perfectly the change in velocity versus change in time.  This
does not affect the magnitude of the braking force applied to the rotor.  I
think that you are confusing this with an energy equation and work.  Because
the rotor is turning and more rotor material passes through the (applied)
pads, more work is done on the rotor by the pads, by the equation Work =
Force x Distance.  But work is the same thing as energy.  What I'm saying is
that the extra work that is done is wasted in the form of heat energy.

So basically, what you are saying is that the magnitude of the braking force
increases due to greater velocity?  I am talking about the applied force on
the rotor at the pads, regardless what the size of the rotor is.  I say no.
This force is determined soley by the magnitude of the normal force and the
coeffecient of kinetic friction.  So then this force is applied over a
greater distance due to the larger rotor.  Well, this is work (W=FxD).  Work
has the same dimension as energy.  Total energy is equal to the potential
energy plus the kinetic energy.  What I'm saying is that the extra work done
is converted to potential energy, in the form of heat, and is thus
dissapated and wasted as far as the system goes.

I took a quick peek though my dynamics book, but could find no example
problems of this nature.  I'm sure to start off an interesting debate in
this class next quarter over this.


Please derive for me the equation that you are talking about so that I can
understand.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Reality check, KLR Model
Date: 13 Mar 1999 14:42:49 EST

In a message dated 3/13/99 12:36:34 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< All this time I assumed I was riding an A2, but the 11/97 date on the
 bike I.D. tag that is on the front frame up near the steering stem head
 plus the model just being called a KLR650A >>


No you have an A2.  Motorcycles are usually manufactured a few months before
the new year.  I had a 92 Yamaha that was actually manufactured in 9/91.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Night vision
Date: 13 Mar 1999 12:05:34 -0800



Now that Cadillac has announced the first fully-intergrated night vision
system with heads up display(HUD) in a production vehicle (seville
yr-2000), any guesses how long it will be before someone puts one on a
motorcycle?
2 to 3 yrs?  BMW-?- maybe Honda?
wow

http://www.car.net.au/news/archive9809/gmh980903.htm
link to Cadillacs' night vision w/HUD

There already is night vision for motorcycles, and I've used it for
countless hours.  Its called the AN/PVS 7B Night Vision Goggles.  I've got
to tell you, while they work, your visual acuity goes from 20/20 to 20/40 or
so.  Objects appear smaller than what they really are, you have no depth
perception, and to change focus you have to use your hand, like a camera
lens.  Riding at night on a KLR 250 across the desert in Jordan, trusty
M-4 carbine strapped to my side, what a life.  I was having a great time
that night, until I almost decapitated myself on a strand of barbed wire.
It can be done, but its scary.  BTW, I haven't seen these goggles on the
market yet, as they are still in current use by the military.

Rangers lead the way,

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Reality check, KLR Model
Date: 13 Mar 1999 14:58:32 EST

On 3/13/99, [e-mail] writes: snip

>...KLR650A makes me wonder if this is indeed an A1...

 Built in '87, sold in '88, it's probably an A2. You can verify
 A1 ~ A9 by referencing the guide on the back of the 650
 service manual. The frame #'s all start with "JKAKLEA1",
 followed by an "H" for '87, up to "S" in '95.  My A10 is a "T".

 If the A11 ~ A13 are "U" through "W", then maybe the KLE will
 finally replace the KLR after the "Z" model A16 in 2002.

 Redondo Ron A10 - contemplation, meditation, belly button




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Ventura racks
Date: 13 Mar 1999 15:23:13 EST

Has anyone mounted the Ventura rack on the KLR?  If so, do you lose the back
rack; where do the brackets attach?  Thanks in advance for your help.

John Paul Gray
Dana Point CA

95KLR650
94 ST1100



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Night vision
Date: 13 Mar 1999 15:36:19 +0000

> It can be done, but its scary.  BTW, I haven't seen these goggles on the
> market yet, as they are still in current use by the military.
>
> Rangers lead the way,
>
> Jeff

First of all thank you for having the guts to serve.

I heard about those KLRs in Desert Storm.  I guess one of the reasons
the military liked them so much was that you could get parts almost
anywhere motorcycles were sold.

While you were practicing for the Dakar I was a small cog in the big
wheel of building submarines.  Not as dangerous as combat but
nevertheless dangerous.  I was an E3 for a while in the Regular Army
back in 1977.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Reality check, KLR Model
Date: 13 Mar 1999 15:38:10 +0000

At 02:42 PM 3/13/99 EST, [e-mail] wrote:
>In a message dated 3/13/99 12:36:34 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< All this time I assumed I was riding an A2, but the 11/97 date on the
> bike I.D. tag that is on the front frame up near the steering stem head
> plus the model just being called a KLR650A >>
>
>
>No you have an A2.  Motorcycles are usually manufactured a few months before
>the new year.  I had a 92 Yamaha that was actually manufactured in 9/91.


    And my '96 was made in June 1995.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Night vision
Date: 13 Mar 1999 15:36:36 +0000

At 12:05 PM 3/13/99 -0800, Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:
>
>
>Now that Cadillac has announced the first fully-intergrated night vision
>system with heads up display(HUD) in a production vehicle (seville
>yr-2000), any guesses how long it will be before someone puts one on a
>motorcycle?
>2 to 3 yrs?  BMW-?- maybe Honda?
>wow
>
>http://www.car.net.au/news/archive9809/gmh980903.htm
>link to Cadillacs' night vision w/HUD
>
>There already is night vision for motorcycles, and I've used it for
>countless hours.  Its called the AN/PVS 7B Night Vision Goggles.  I've got
>to tell you, while they work, your visual acuity goes from 20/20 to 20/40 or
>so.  Objects appear smaller than what they really are, you have no depth
>perception, and to change focus you have to use your hand, like a camera
>lens.  Riding at night on a KLR 250 across the desert in Jordan, trusty
>M-4 carbine strapped to my side, what a life.  I was having a great time
>that night, until I almost decapitated myself on a strand of barbed wire.
>It can be done, but its scary.  BTW, I haven't seen these goggles on the
>market yet, as they are still in current use by the military.



    They are on the market in Gen II or Gen III variants. Reconditioned Gen
IIs gor for about $2,000, a new Gen III for $3,200. Man, prices on the Gen
III version sure have fallen in the last few years.


    Me? I would have to do with the old AN/PVS 5, or ex-Soviet Gen I stuff.
Too po'.  :)



-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Reality check, KLR Model
Date: 13 Mar 1999 15:43:56 EST

     Redondo wrote:
> ...The frame #'s all start with "JKAKLEA1",
> followed by an "H" for '87, up to "S" in '95.  My A10 is a "T".
> If the A11 ~ A13 are "U" through "W", then maybe the KLE will
> finally replace the KLR after the "Z" model A16 in 2002.


True. But Kawasaki skipped the letters I, O, and Q. If they skip another
letter, perhaps they will give us the "KLE 2001:  A Scooter Odyssey."

John O.   A10   (waiting for something wonderful)
Rolling Hills, CA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Reality check, KLR Model
Date: 13 Mar 1999 15:55:49 +0000

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/13/99 12:36:34 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << All this time I assumed I was riding an A2, but the 11/97 date on the
>  bike I.D. tag that is on the front frame up near the steering stem head
>  plus the model just being called a KLR650A >>
>
> No you have an A2.  Motorcycles are usually manufactured a few months before
> the new year.  I had a 92 Yamaha that was actually manufactured in 9/91.
>
> Gino

OK....then that does make sense.  I kind of thought that but wasn't
sure.  When I bought this the dealer only had a KLR 600 in the showroom
and had to have a KLR 650 transfered in from another dealership for me.
The bike has been kept totally stock (except for the tires).  I've even
got the original break-in instruction stickers on the tank and gauges!

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Night vision
Date: 13 Mar 1999 14:01:50 -0800

heard about those KLRs in Desert Storm.  I guess one of the reasons
>the military liked them so much was that you could get parts almost
>anywhere motorcycles were sold.
>
A typical Ranger mission for the KLR was during an airfield seizure mission.
After the initial wave jumped onto the field and set up a local perimeter,
the Hercy birds would start doing touch and goes, off loading the gun trucks
and a few bikes.  The gun jeeps would race out to secure road junctions on
the most likely high speed avenues of approach to the airfield, and the
bikes would be used to push out farther to do some scouting, or to secure a
specific distant target.  Things really got fun after the rotor heads came
in with the Little Birds.  And meanwhile the AC130 Specter was providing air
support.  Beautiful thing to see.  Believe me when I tell you that the
Rangers could secure any airport in the world, within 18 hours of getting
the word go.  (They might take a lot of casualties, but the Ranger Creed
says "I will fight onto the Ranger objective and complete the mission,
though I be the lone survivor.")

I once had the pleasure of pushing a crated up KLR out the back of a
perfectly good airplane while in flight, then jumping out after it.

Rangers Lead the Way,

Jeff--Still marching to the beat of the drum in his head

Please forgive the flashback episode




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Windshield bracing/Saeng
Date: 13 Mar 1999 15:02:48

Hey All,

1)Has anybody who has run an after market windshield for any length of time
experienced any fatigue of the shield or the fairing? I have the 13" Rifle
and it does wiggle about somewhat at speed.  Only ~600 miles on it so far
and no signs of fatigue but I'm thinking of bracing it with some flat stock
to the fairing mount.  Been there?  Please advise.

2)Mixed reviews on the Saeng Stealth edging, huh?  If you are one of those
who was less than satisfied and have a piece in good condition 32-40" long
I'd be interested in buying it from you.  At a substantial discount, of
course! :-)  Let's parley.

I scored this birthday, my 44th.  New leathers, new boots, new helmet. My
wife, ten years my junior, has decided that my current infactuation with
the KLR is a mid life crisis that she can indulge and even encourage.  She
thinks some bikes are dead sexy but told me, "At least you're never going
to attract any women with that goofy looking Kawasaki."  Darling, I
resemble that remark!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR - Boots Hi-tech, Danner, etc..
Date: 13 Mar 1999 16:37:46 -0000

Alright all you combat boot people.  I finally went and checked out Danner
and Hi_Tech boots at a local shop.  I walked out with a pair of Hi-Tech
Troopers for $50.  Incredibly light weight, really comfy.  I tried on the
various Magnum models, but they all had a really big toe area, the Trooper
fit perfectly.  While I still wear my AGV 580 road race boots on longer
hauls, the Hi_tech's are a perfect substitute for those sneaker wearing
rides.  Thanks for the info guys.

Here's a link to some pics and prices:

http://www.actiongear.com/cgi-bin/tame/agcatalog/level3.tam?M2%5FDESC%2Ectx=
%22BOOTS%20UNIFORM%20%2F%20DUTY%22&backto=%2Fagcatalog%2Flevel2%2Etam




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Windshield bracing/Saeng
Date: 13 Mar 1999 14:42:36 -0800

>I scored this birthday, my 44th.  New leathers, new boots, new helmet. My
>wife, ten years my junior, has decided that my current infactuation with
>the KLR is a mid life crisis that she can indulge and even encourage.  She
>thinks some bikes are dead sexy but told me, "At least you're never going
>to attract any women with that goofy looking Kawasaki."  Darling, I
>resemble that remark!
>
>
My bike sure does attract the attention of young kids though!  Boy don't I
feel cool.  I guess if I wanted to look sexy I'd grow long hair and ride a
HD or beemer or something.  Funny thing was, back in high school I did
attract a lot of girls when I was riding my Honda XL600R.  Maybe it wasn't
the bike at all?

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Windshield bracing/Saeng
Date: 13 Mar 1999 18:05:20 -0500

At 03:02 PM 3/13/99 +0000, Guy Cheney wrote:
>Has anybody who has run an after market windshield for any length of time
>experienced any fatigue of the shield or the fairing? I have the 13" Rifle
>and it does wiggle about somewhat at speed.  I'm thinking of bracing it
with some flat stock
>to the fairing mount.

Guy:
I have a Clearview that shakes about some, and there's no sign of fatigue
after 3,000 miles.  I thought about installing braces too, but decided I
didn't  want anything like that sticking up during a crash.

>Mixed reviews on the Saeng Stealth edging, huh?  If you are one of those
>who was less than satisfied and have a piece in good condition 32-40" long
>I'd be interested in buying it from you.

Send me your snail mail address via private email and I'll send it to you.
No charge, just pass a favor on to somebody else sometime.

Stuart
KLR A12
Juno Beach, Florida




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR:  JB Weld
Date: 13 Mar 1999 19:00:15 -0500

Unfortunately the splines on both my shift lever and the shaft that comes
out of my gearbox have worn out.  If I were to JB Weld the two pieces
together how would I go about removing them later on?  Other ideas on how to
mate lever to the shaft would also be appreciated.  Stephen Rivett




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Reality check, KLR Model
Date: 13 Mar 1999 16:02:29 -0800

O Round One
Everyone skipped those digits. The tenth digit in a vehicle identification
number is the model year identifier.  This standardization is one of the few
constants in global vehicular manufacture.  They skipped those letters so
bifocal wearing service advisors like myself don't confuse them with
numbers.  Used to be the police officer could tell the model of the car he
was writing the parking ticket on by the number molded into the tail light.
Nowdays with car and bike manufacturers on multianual design cycles it's a
lot tougher on the poor bastards.  The first 4 or 5 letters usually
designate country and plant origins, the next batch model, trim, trans,
powerplant etc.  The last 10 numbers are the actual serial number.
This is starting to sound too much like work, I'm outta here.
Morgan
not working today






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR
Date: 13 Mar 1999 19:26:04 EST

In a message dated 3/13/99 2:49:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I dissagree.  The coeffecient of kinetic friction doesn't depend on the
area
 dA of the brake pad, and is therefore constant.  It is the nature of the two
 surfaces in contact, not the magnitude of the area.
 > >>
Jeff,
With regards to your piece of wood example, the total weight applied by the
board is the same in both scenarios (it's own weight).  On edge, the contact
area is less, but the pressure is higher.  On its face, the contact area is
greater, but the pressure is lower.  In both cases, the total normal force is
the same (pressure x area), therefore the frictional force is the same.  In
the comparison of the brake rotor, I was assuming that the brake fluid
pressure was constant in both comparisons, resulting in a higher normal force
for the larger pad vs. the smaller pad.  This would cause the frictional force
to be greater for the larger pad than the smaller one.
Greg, A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Windshield bracing/Saeng
Date: 13 Mar 1999 19:28:40 EST

<< Funny thing was, back in high school I did
 attract a lot of girls when I was riding my Honda XL600R.  Maybe it wasn't
 the bike at all?
 Jeff >>

 Easy, easy Fabio.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  JB Weld
Date: 13 Mar 1999 20:02:07 +0000

If I were to JB Weld the two pieces
> together how would I go about removing them later on?  Other ideas on how to
> mate lever to the shaft would also be appreciated.  Stephen Rivett

Steve,

First of all check to see if its the shaft or shifter that is stripped.

If the shifter is trashed then just get a new shifter.....but if the
spline shaft is trashed then you're screwed, but....

I know people who have tried thin metal shim wraps but if you hammer
them too hard they will slip.  One thought that I had though is if you
could drill a hole coming up through the bottom through the shift lever,
shaft, and out the other side of the shift lever you might be able to
put a screw and nut in there that would get you through for a while.  It
would act as a shear pin so to speak.  You would need a really hard
drill bit.  You might be able to start a pilot hole through the bottom
side (only) of the shifter (shifter removed from the bike and in a vice
or some kind of fixture), and then install the shifter on the spline
shaft on the bike, insert the drill bit into the pilot hole, and then
continue to drill through the shaft and out the top side of the
shifter.
The pilot hole would allow you to have a more stable drilling condition.
The through hole would have to be a through hole with no mismatch.  The
screw would penetrate through the bottom and the elastic stop nut would
have to be on top.  This at least allows you to remove the shifter at
will and seeing as how you may have trashed the thing already it can't
get any worse.  I am a functional illiterate so if I were you I would
ask others before you tried this.  Don't forget to put the original
shifter screw back in and tighten it up snug so that you'll at least get
a little bite and the other screw will stop the rotation.  I never did
this on a bike but have had some experience with outboard motors and
broke shear pins on the props occasionally.

Jeff
A2
Already on my second shifter (but shaft still good), will upgrade to the
IMS or whatever brand next time.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Windshield bracing/Saeng
Date: 13 Mar 1999 17:56:57 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>Hey All,
>
>1)Has anybody who has run an after market windshield for any length of time
>experienced any fatigue of the shield or the fairing? I have the 13" Rifle
>and it does wiggle about somewhat at speed.  Only ~600 miles on it so far
>and no signs of fatigue but I'm thinking of bracing it with some flat stock
>to the fairing mount.  Been there?  Please advise.



I have run the clearview +9 for a season and have experienced high winds,
but not problems what so ever...mind you its just one big piece of
polycarbonate so I guess its pretty bombproof.  I'd buy another in a second.

Cheers,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  JB Weld
Date: 13 Mar 1999 20:40:35 +0000

Stephen Rivett wrote:
>
> Your idea would definately work...if somebody hadn't stolen my drills
>   Another person said I could make groves between the shifter and shaft and
> beat some nails into the slots.  I believe that is the way I'm gonna go.
>

OK, I understand...but the KLR is a thumper and vibration may have a way
of convincing the nails to seek freedom over the long run.  It would be
a shame if a shank fell out and got picked up in your Dunlop.

Helmets and protective gear are cool.  (I'm begining to sound like my
parents)

Sorry

Jeff
A2
> >
> >



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Soft luggage security
Date: 13 Mar 1999 18:20:47 -0800

I've noticed that in choosing between soft luggage and hard luggage one of
the factors most frequently mentioned here is security from theft. I gotta
admit I like soft luggage (especially the cost), but I do a lot of worrying
about theft when I'm in the store, etc. I've just resigned myself to trying
to be vigilant.

Anyway, I came across a thing called a Pacsafe in Backpacker magazine. It's
a wire mesh that fits over a backpack with an aperture that cinches up,
allowing the backpack to be secured within the mesh, and then locked to an
object or worn. The mesh is fairly wide, and I suppose somebody with
dexterity and a little time could get small objects out of pockets, but no
way is your camera gonna get through. Pretty ingenious. Take a peek at
http://www.pac-safe.com/. Anybody ever tried something like this?  A stock
one would probably fit nicely over the duffle, tent, pad, and sleeping bag I
stow on the rear luggage rack, but probably wouldn't secure the saddlebags
(although I do note they'll make custom ones). It'd have the added advantage
of securing everything from flying away, instead of the snakes' nest of
snapping bungies I use. Cost: $50. Think this would work?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)NKLR oil changes
Date: 13 Mar 1999 19:38:10 -0700



>OK. So I searched the archives and I'm going to go buy some Mobil 1
>synthetic motor oil in a weight appropriate to the list in the manual.
>15W50 or 10W40 depending on what the back of the can says is better for
>So Cal conditions. If this is horribly wrong, please, somebody, stop me
>before I do it.
>
>Sarah
>
>--

Sarah,
   I`ve been seriously studying mechanical lubrication for the past 9 years
( part of my job) and keep up with with new research and developments as it
comes out. I attend at least two lubrication/petroleum symposiums a year. I
regularly deal with engineer reps from Mobil, Shell and Phillips. I am a
registered subscriber to the SAE and Aerospace publication papers and
digests.
   The above is only to give you an idea of how seriously keep up with
FACTUAL research and posits on lubrication, this is not a hobby, it directly
pertains to my work and interests.
    There is a lot of myths, old wives tales and misinformation out there on
oil and lubrication. Some is well intended but wrong, some is pure unproved
propaganda by oil companies and additive companies to help sell a product.
Some is from individuals that have tried " x product" and then say the
results were " this or that " when in fact there were too many other
variables and operating conditions to be accurate or trustworthy in YOUR
application.
   You are doing well to not trust everything you hear. Check and research
before ever doing anything that is potentially harmful or untried on your
bike.
    Now, to answer your question. I attended an annual clinic two weeks ago
that had reps from Shell, Mobil and Phillips giving talks. Afterwards,
during a question and answer session, I asked about the use of synthetics in
wet clutch motorcycles and the response was the same from all: First, 15w50
and 20W50 was the recommended weight for warmer weather and climes ( Cal.)
while 5W40 and 5W50 was the recommended for cold weather. For mixed and all
season use, the 15W50 was recommended. The common view was that for some une
xplained reason, 10W40 was an inferior weight blend. The valve problems
Chevrolet 350`s and some motorcycles had had in the past was cited.
    The following consensus was expressed by Mobil and Shell: in the wet
clutch motorcycle, some bikes (same makes and models) experience clutch
slippage with the use of synthetic oil, therefore, try it, and if you
experience slippage, discontinue use, change the oil back to a mineral base,
put a few miles on it and change the oil again ( with filter change each
time). No damage has been documented following this procedure.
   Also, filter changes at each oil change is seriously recommended when
using synthetic oil as synthetic oil tends to loosen deposits and entraps
solid contaminants better than mineral oils, which explains the results of
engines at teardown being cleaner when synthetic oil has been used.
   I`ll post later some other things I checked on at the request of some
other Listers that knew I was attending the lubrication/petroleum siminar.
    So go for it Sarah, and let us know how it`s working for you.

Skip








-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  JB Weld
Date: 13 Mar 1999 21:51:18 EST

Stephen, clamp your shift lever in a vice so that it is compressed shut as if
a bolt were tight, but don't put the bolt in. Take your hack saw and cut
through the slit that is compressed shut so that you are cutting away the
thickness of the saw blade and try that on the shaft, if it is better, but not
quite perfect, do it again to remove more metal. If that doesn't work, don't
dispair, removing the shaft is not a complex task.
Good luck, Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) JB Weld (NKLR) Shift lever Ricky-Rig
Date: 13 Mar 1999 19:03:09 -0800

Other ideas on how to
> mate lever to the shaft would also be appreciated.  Stephen Rivett

Steve,
-----------
When I was in my early teens (comin' up on twenty years ago), I remember
stripping the post on my Yami 100. I drilled a hole between where the
shifter and shaft clamp together. I then drove a piece of heavy copper (?)
wire into the hole as a kind of key-lock. It seemed to work well as the
copper was malleable enough to be pulled or drilled out when I had to get
past it to the innards. I left a hunk sticking out and remember replacing it
a couple times before moving on to bigger and better machines. Just be
thoughtful as to your positioning when you make your move, there's not a
whole lot of area on the post to work with. I would say the drill bit was
around a sixteenth?

Rik     ------- damn I miss my Fathers work shop!
A13


**raining again in Seattle, surprise, surprise.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) JB Weld (NKLR) Shift lever Ricky-Rig
Date: 13 Mar 1999 22:06:47 -0500

Thanks for the help everybody!  I've not enough ideas to keep me busy for a
year (somebody stole my drill...)  Stephen Rivett
p.s. Never assume a new driver knows which side the kickstart is on

-----Original Message-----


>Other ideas on how to
>> mate lever to the shaft would also be appreciated.  Stephen Rivett
>
>Steve,
>-----------
>When I was in my early teens (comin' up on twenty years ago), I remember
>stripping the post on my Yami 100. I drilled a hole between where the
>shifter and shaft clamp together. I then drove a piece of heavy copper (?)
>wire into the hole as a kind of key-lock. It seemed to work well as the
>copper was malleable enough to be pulled or drilled out when I had to get
>past it to the innards. I left a hunk sticking out and remember replacing
it
>a couple times before moving on to bigger and better machines. Just be
>thoughtful as to your positioning when you make your move, there's not a
>whole lot of area on the post to work with. I would say the drill bit was
>around a sixteenth?
>
>Rik     ------- damn I miss my Fathers work shop!
>A13
>
>
>**raining again in Seattle, surprise, surprise.
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Soft luggage security
Date: 13 Mar 1999 20:28:45 -0800

Wonderful!..Thanks for the url Rob.  I was thinking about making something
like this, but heck if somebody sells it and the price is right....looks
like it would go great with some ortlieb dry bags.

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>I've noticed that in choosing between soft luggage and hard luggage one of
>the factors most frequently mentioned here is security from theft. I gotta
>admit I like soft luggage (especially the cost), but I do a lot of worrying
>about theft when I'm in the store, etc. I've just resigned myself to trying
>to be vigilant.
>
>Anyway, I came across a thing called a Pacsafe in Backpacker magazine. It's
>a wire mesh that fits over a backpack with an aperture that cinches up,
>allowing the backpack to be secured within the mesh, and then locked to an
>object or worn. The mesh is fairly wide, and I suppose somebody with
>dexterity and a little time could get small objects out of pockets, but no
>way is your camera gonna get through. Pretty ingenious. Take a peek at





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Ventura racks
Date: 13 Mar 1999 23:16:24 EST

In a message dated 3/13/99 1:25:23 PM Mountain Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Has anyone mounted the Ventura rack on the KLR?  If so, do you lose the
back
 rack; where do the brackets attach?  Thanks in advance for your help.
  >>

Unless they have come out with a new rack, the Ventura will not work on a US
spec KLR.  You will want to verify that it will fit a KLR650A model, not a
KLR650C model.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: John Buffett <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Soft luggage security
Date: 13 Mar 1999 23:32:57 -0500

Just a quick thought. (Not too much thought really) Its late.
What about chicken wire or  a similar product dipped in that plasti-dip stuff
for tool  handles.
Trim with rubber hose or plastic tubing. Put a Wal-Mart padlock on it.
Make sense or am I just sleep deprived.

Regards John

Vik Banerjee wrote:

> Wonderful!..Thanks for the url Rob.  I was thinking about making something
> like this, but heck if somebody sells it and the price is right....looks
> like it would go great with some ortlieb dry bags.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Vik
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rob Gendreau <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
> Date: Saturday, March 13, 1999 6:34 PM
> Subject: (klr650) Soft luggage security
>
> >I've noticed that in choosing between soft luggage and hard luggage one of
> >the factors most frequently mentioned here is security from theft. I gotta
> >admit I like soft luggage (especially the cost), but I do a lot of worrying
> >about theft when I'm in the store, etc. I've just resigned myself to trying
> >to be vigilant.
> >
> >Anyway, I came across a thing called a Pacsafe in Backpacker magazine. It's
> >a wire mesh that fits over a backpack with an aperture that cinches up,
> >allowing the backpack to be secured within the mesh, and then locked to an
> >object or worn. The mesh is fairly wide, and I suppose somebody with
> >dexterity and a little time could get small objects out of pockets, but no
> >way is your camera gonna get through. Pretty ingenious. Take a peek at

--
As you wander on throught life my friend, whatever be  your  goal.
     o_/|   o_.
     [\_|   [\_\
  (`----|-------\-')
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~@~~~~~~~@~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~@~~~~~~~~@~~~~~~~~

Keep your eye upon the  donut, and  never on the hole.

John
Northern Ontario, Canada





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Oil Leak
Date: 13 Mar 1999 20:54:59 -0800

Hey listers . . .
I'm digging the physics of brakes thread (for real - keeps me thinking), but
I have a down-to-earth, real-world question. In the last month, I've noticed
a bit of oil on the right engine case. It SEEMS to be coming from the clutch
"thrust rod" (is that the right term, or is my mind just in the gutter)
opening. I only notice it if I've been pushing things a bit, like 90+ mph
for 15-20 minutes. The quantity isn't much, my sight-glass tells me I
haven't lost anything significant, but I hate to think of my beloved
GroundHog giving up any of its precious bodily fluids. I haven't yet done
the obvious - degrease the engine, put on a bit of talcum powder and ride.
However, I do want to know if anyone else hase experienced this, and what
the general concensus is - should I be worried? Here's the pertinent data:

A12 8500 mi.
Mobil 1 15w50 every 3000 mi with new filter
filled to top of sight glass
never down, never opened the case (just getting psyched for valve
check/adjust)

Thanks in advance for you support.

Mike Magier
98 GroudHog
(soon to be owner of Honda ST1100, too !!)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Avon AM24 Front Tire
Date: 13 Mar 1999 21:28:28 -0800

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        After reviewing the archives for some information on the AM24
Gripsters for the front of the KLR, I came up empty. Has anyone had the
opportunity to compare the Avon vs. the Pirelli MT21 on the front of the
bike. I am in the process of installing the new Avon on the rear, and
need some help for the front tire. Currently burning off the OEM Dunlop
in the front and I really don't like it's ability in large riverbed rock
and sand, they do an OK job on hard pack and blacktop.
Any info. on different front tire brands, are welcome...
Any thoughts about mixing f/r tires with different brands/tread pattern
for safety..

Thanks
Brian    A12CE,7k



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR
Date: 13 Mar 1999 21:36:28 PST




> [e-mail] wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 3/12/99 11:44:17 AM Central Standard Time,
> > [e-mail] writes:
> Because the frictional force is a function of the
> molecular structures of the two materials (brake pad and rotor) AND of =
the
> speed
> at which the two are passing.

Tim,


When I was going though engineering school I was taught that dynamic fric=
tion is NOT a function  of the relative speed of the of the surfaces. Dyn=
amic friction is a function of the normal force, surfaces/matarials, and =
area of contact.

Alex (mechanical engineer)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  JB Weld
Date: 13 Mar 1999 22:03:13 -0800

-----Original Message-----


>Unfortunately the splines on both my shift lever and the shaft that comes
>out of my gearbox have worn out.  If I were to JB Weld the two pieces
>together how would I go about removing them later on?  Other ideas on how
to
>mate lever to the shaft would also be appreciated.  Stephen Rivett
>

I think the drill-through idea would be the way to go.  A bit won't cost you
any more than a tube of JB Weld anyways.  Use a bit in around a 3/16", drill
straight up-n-down or down-n-up :o , then fit it with a nice stainless steel
bolt with a nylock nut on the bottom.  Should hold up fine.

Arne - with a degree in farm-engineering




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Conall O'Brien)
Subject: (klr650) Stripped gearshift spline?
Date: 13 Mar 1999 22:07:56 -0800 (PST)

Stephen-
I used to have the same problem on my 1990, that is I couldn't tighten
the gear shifter tight enough. The IMS gear shifter took care of that
problem and I wish I had bought one sooner.
Fred Hink has 'em. JB weld may be cheaper, but you'd want to be able
remove the shifter,which would be very difficult wth JB, I believe.

Conall
A4 "skyhawk"




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Windshield bracing/Saeng
Date: 13 Mar 1999 23:30:51 -0700


|2)Mixed reviews on the Saeng Stealth edging, huh?

What I'm really waiting for is for someone to use the Saeng "Winglets"...Gino calls them the
wings of Mercury and thought he would mount a pair on his helmet...reminds me more of the early
Mallard trailers with those beautiful wings to the rear (g)...I may be the guy...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR sex appeal...
Date: 13 Mar 1999 23:33:18 -0700


|thinks some bikes are dead sexy but told me, "At least you're never going
|to attract any women with that goofy looking Kawasaki."  Darling, I
|resemble that remark!

my SO would agree with that "too much plastic" but give her a V-Max and it is an entirely
different story...she likes tender wisdom-filled men (she's still looking) and hard macho
bikes....


Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Ventura racks
Date: 13 Mar 1999 23:35:02 -0700

|<< Has anyone mounted the Ventura rack on the KLR?  If so, do you lose the
|back
| rack; where do the brackets attach?  Thanks in advance for your help.
|  >>
|
|Unless they have come out with a new rack, the Ventura will not work on a US
|spec KLR.  You will want to verify that it will fit a KLR650A model, not a
|KLR650C model.
|
|Gino


Gino's right on this...I went round and round with them last year, I think I even called New
Zealand...at any rate there was a breakthrough for a time until they finally got serious and
said no it wouldn't fit the A models...

Better opt for Obe Wan's racks...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Avon AM24 Front Tire
Date: 13 Mar 1999 22:48:58 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>Any thoughts about mixing f/r tires with different brands/tread pattern
>for safety..
>
>Thanks
>Brian    A12CE,7k


I don't think you should mix a bias with a radial but I don't think brands
would matter unless the tread aggressiveness of the two tires were at
opposite ends of the spectrum.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Avon AM24 Front Tire
Date: 13 Mar 1999 23:53:03 -0700

|        After reviewing the archives for some information on the AM24
|Gripsters for the front of the KLR, I came up empty. Has anyone had the
|opportunity to compare the Avon vs. the Pirelli MT21 on the front of the
|bike. I am in the process of installing the new Avon on the rear, and
|need some help for the front tire. Currently burning off the OEM Dunlop
|in the front and I really don't like it's ability in large riverbed rock
|and sand, they do an OK job on hard pack and blacktop.
|Any info. on different front tire brands, are welcome...
|Any thoughts about mixing f/r tires with different brands/tread pattern
|for safety..


Puzzled here Brian, there have been so many reports of Gripsters being the tire of choice front
and back...I think it is Tom that uses the Gripster up front and the Roadrunner in the rear for
more blacktop work...the MT21 is a much much more aggressive tread pattern and is going to wear
out considerably faster on the road. I have a pair that I would use if I wasn't going to put on
any serious long highway miles...Fred uses them and likes them but a long trip for Fred is
anywhere North of Green River (local joke just kidding my friend)...

No one claims great things for either the Gripster or the MT21 in soft stuff...probably ok on
harder stuff...lots of folks mix front and back...just have to be careful as you try it out...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Windshield bracing/Saeng
Date: 14 Mar 1999 02:08:57 +0000

At 03:02 PM 3/13/99, Guy Cheney wrote:
>Hey All,
>
>1)Has anybody who has run an after market windshield for any length of time
>experienced any fatigue of the shield or the fairing? I have the 13" Rifle
>and it does wiggle about somewhat at speed.  Only ~600 miles on it so far
>and no signs of fatigue but I'm thinking of bracing it with some flat stock
>to the fairing mount.  Been there?  Please advise.


    I had a tall Rifle shield that also wobbled about. I was going to brace it
untill I broke it in a minor spill at a dual sport rally. I have not
bothered to replace it and now run a handlebar mount windshield that I
actualy like a good bit better.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Avon AM24 Front Tire
Date: 14 Mar 1999 01:56:02 +0000

At 11:53 PM 3/13/99 -0700, Kurt Simpson wrote:
>|        After reviewing the archives for some information on the AM24
>|Gripsters for the front of the KLR, I came up empty. Has anyone had the
>|opportunity to compare the Avon vs. the Pirelli MT21 on the front of the
>|bike. I am in the process of installing the new Avon on the rear, and
>|need some help for the front tire. Currently burning off the OEM Dunlop
>|in the front and I really don't like it's ability in large riverbed rock
>|and sand, they do an OK job on hard pack and blacktop.
>|Any info. on different front tire brands, are welcome...
>|Any thoughts about mixing f/r tires with different brands/tread pattern
>|for safety..
>
>
>Puzzled here Brian, there have been so many reports of Gripsters being the
tire of choice front
>and back...I think it is Tom that uses the Gripster up front and the
Roadrunner in the rear for
>more blacktop work...the MT21 is a much much more aggressive tread pattern
and is going to wear
>out considerably faster on the road. I have a pair that I would use if I
wasn't going to put on
>any serious long highway miles...Fred uses them and likes them but a long
trip for Fred is
>anywhere North of Green River (local joke just kidding my friend)...
>
>No one claims great things for either the Gripster or the MT21 in soft
stuff...probably ok on
>harder stuff...lots of folks mix front and back...just have to be careful
as you try it out...



    Yup, thats me with the Roadrunner/Gripster combo. Seems to work very well
for me. At 7,000 miles, my Roadrunner looks like it just getting started,
as oppsed to a rear Gripster at 7,000 miles, which is on its last legs.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)NKLR oil changes
Date: 14 Mar 1999 02:51:05 -0800


>   I`ve been seriously studying mechanical lubrication for the past 9 years
>( part of my job) and keep up with with new research and developments as it
>comes out. I attend at least two lubrication/petroleum symposiums a year. I
>regularly deal with engineer reps from Mobil, Shell and Phillips. I am a
>registered subscriber to the SAE and Aerospace publication papers and
>digests.

All Right! a bonefide authority in the house!  Aside from the issue of
slipping clutches, is there any truth to the sales pitches of motorcycle
oils having a more stable shear factor, doesn't get its long chain
hydrocarbons broken down by the straight cut gears and clutch?  I personally
think that its a bunch of bunk, because my Rodeo tranny and transfer case
both have straight cut gears, and use 5w-30 mineral oil for lube.  I can't
see the and pressure being great enough, and the tolerances being small
enough to "shear" the hydrocarbon chains in the oil at the microscopic
level, as I've heard from countless parts guys at motorcycle dealers.

Hey, I don't want to stir any hornets nests, and don't want to debate, I
just want the straight dope.

Thanks,

Jeff





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ofer Ben Michael <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Helmet Brake Light
Date: 14 Mar 1999 09:17:48 +0200

Hello boys and girls,,,

I am holding in my hand now the helmet brake light kit, I did not have the
chance to install it yet bat I will do so ASAP.
The kit looks better then in the web site, the helmet unit is very light and
only requires installing to AAA 1.5V batteries, the transmitter unit is
smaller and lighter then a match box, it also looks like it is going to be
easy to install with only to wires hooking on the KLR brake light wires that
are going to the back of the bike.
It comes with too mounting stickers and most important....
Yes it is MADE IN ISRAEL so if any of you have any questions send me Email
and I will do my best to get the answer.

"my KLR looks different then yours"

    Ofer.

==============================
Ofer Ben-Michael
WiLL and Switching MCSC
Motorola CIG - Israel
Email:[e-mail]
Mobile:[phone]
Phone:[phone]
Fax:[phone]
==============================




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Avon AM24 Front Tire
Date: 14 Mar 1999 03:18:55 -0800

>Any info. on different front tire brands, are welcome...
>Any thoughts about mixing f/r tires with different brands/tread pattern
>for safety..
>
I'm currently running on IRC GP-1's front and rear.  I personally like
them...I feel that they are a good compromise for street and dirt, and they
are cheap enough that you can afford to replace them often, not that I've
noticed any excessive wear.  But, since my riding has changed since my move,
and there is a whole lot of desert for me to explore out here and my daily
commute has shortened from over 100 miles to just over 30 miles (round
trip), I think that my next set of tires will be a DOT enduro tire,
something hard for slow wear on the street, and good traction in the sand
and rocks.  My old Honda XL 500S had the GP-1's, but I think that the rubber
compound has changed a lot since then.  When those tires wore I just
replaced them with honest knobbies, and gutted it out on the street.  My
XL600R had some high speed directional DS tires on it
(Metzler?Dunlop?--don't remember.)  I remember that they were great on the
street, and decent in the dirt, but wore way too fast and were much too
expensive from the dealer, so I put DOT knobbies on that bike.  As you can
see, I prefer dirt orientated tires.  I can live with knobbies on the street
and highway and in the rain, but going off road with sucky tires really
bites.  Anyway, I seem to recall J.C. Whitney had a huge stock of GP-1's for
cheap.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Avon AM24 Front Tire
Date: 14 Mar 1999 06:28:46 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


...the MT21 is a much much more aggressive tread pattern and is going to
wear
>out considerably faster on the road. I have a pair that I would use if I
wasn't going to put on
>any serious long highway miles...Fred uses them and likes them but a long
trip for Fred is
>anywhere North of Green River (local joke just kidding my friend)...


Ya!  Pavement is for sissies. (also just kidding)

The Pirelli MT21 is a great all around tire.  It lasts a long time and
performs reasonably well on all surfaces for a DOT knobby.  I use a Dunlop
K139 very aggressive DOT knob on the front.  I have yet to wear one out.  I
had one on my XR600 till I broke the knobs on the sides then I put it on my
XR650L to wear out the center and it is still going strong.  Probably will
replace it with another K139 and the rear with another MT21 in time for the
rally though.
There is no problem in using bias and radial tires together.  Several tire
companies make both in the same model tire.  Usually they will make a radial
rear and a bias front.

Anyone want to do Schaffer Trail with me today?

Fred   (Which would you rather smell?  Diesel smoke and car fumes or fresh
roost??)





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Soft luggage security
Date: 14 Mar 1999 08:22:41 -0800

The problem with using chicken wire or somesuch is that you (well not you,
but a crook) can easily cut it. This pac-safe wire is said to be
slash-proof. I haven't seen anything easily available that could be easily
fabricated at a cost cheap enough. Somebody once had a suggestion for a type
of wire mesh, but I forgot who.

> Just a quick thought. (Not too much thought really) Its late.
> What about chicken wire or  a similar product dipped in that plasti-dip stuff
> for tool  handles.
> Trim with rubber hose or plastic tubing. Put a Wal-Mart padlock on it.
> Make sense or am I just sleep deprived.


--
Rob Gendreau
Oakland, California
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Oil Leak @ Balancer Plug
Date: 14 Mar 1999 12:21:25 EST

Sorry for the location, but my wife hide my service manuals, know that I found
them again it is indeed the balancer plug where my leak is, is their a seal
that would cause the leak and has anybody changed that seal before, easy job
or all nighter, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also a dealer friend gave me a Pirelli MT50 (new) that was back in the
wharehouse, anybody have any info on how good of a tire it is. Using a MT21
know and it's ok except for sand and loose offraod work.

Thanks, (Living at South Padre Island at Spring Break is a terrible job)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) PS Springs
Date: 13 Mar 1999 21:42:36 -0800

Listers, just installed the PS springs in my A12.  The directions that came
with the set didn't give a volume figure for fork oil, just a maximum oil
level below top of the fork with springs not installed (5.5").  The OEM
manual gives a volume of 12.3 oz so I put 13 oz in each side (Belray 15w).
Turns out it was just about right.  About 1/4" above the PS recommended oil
level.  The point is that if you want to comply exactly with PS
recommedation start with the manual's volume and pour small increments of
additional oil.  Or just put in 13 oz.  I wanted to keep the stock spacers
intact so I went with Performance Spring advice of 3/4" PVC pipe cut to 4.5"
long.  I'll give a riding impressions soon.  Darrel  L.A.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR
Date: 14 Mar 1999 10:19:53 PST



----------
> With other types of friction, like with fluids, it does
> increase with increasing velocity, like with wind drag.
>
> Jeff

Jeff,

I think that this would be called damping. Damping is proportional to vel=
ocity.

Alex




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Favre <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Stealth Edging
Date: 14 Mar 1999 10:57:02 -0800

If anyone has some stealth edging they are not happy with and would like to
sell I'd like to buy 3-4 feet from someone. Just email me off list.

Tailwinds and Good Coffee,

Wayne Favre
Bothell, WA
86 Voyager XII
88 NX650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Meagher" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 14 Mar 1999 13:13:53 -0600





Howdy Y'all!
(note the somewhat affected southern accent, I'm really a yankee stuck here
in the great Republic of Texas).

My compliments on the wonderful group you have here.  I just discovered it
last night, and I've been browsing the archives with great interest.

Allow me to introduce myself:
My name is Tom Meagher (Irish last name is supposed to be pronounce "mar").
I'm a 44 year old happily married electrical engineer currently living in
Houston TX.
I'm 6'2", 200 lbs (all "muscle", of course).
I've loved motorcycles ever since I can first remember, and I've been
riding "dirt/street/touring" since I was 15.

Some Dual-Sport bikes I've previously owned:
'76 BMW R90/6:  while you would'nt ordinarily consider this a "dual sport"
machine, I used to take it (and get it thoroughly stuck) in the most
unlikely places.  (contrary to the legend, I never could get more than 40K
mi on an overhaul, guess I'm hard on the equipment...)
'91 BMW R100GS:  Despite many good points, ultimately was a disapointment,
but that's a different subject.
'83 Honda XL500S:  Great old thumper, but not much good for long distance.
'86 Honda XR350:  My idea of a great desert bike, had a lot of fun on this
little sharp-shooter, what a jumper and hill climber!

Right now I've got a '94 V-Max, which I'm in the process of selling, so I
can get a new '99 KLR650.  I want to ride it up to Alaska this summer
(thats my plan, anyhoo, even though my wife doesn't want to go).  I
originally bought my 'GS with that in mind, but never quite got it
together.  Anyway, I've wanted to do this ride just forever, and "time's a
wastin'"...

Finally, to get to the point of my posting (sorry to be so verbose...)
since I've targeted a KLR650 as the object of my fixation, I want to know
what I can expect.  I think it's a foregone conclusion that I'm gonna end
up with one regardless, because, as an engineer, (and former BMW owner) I
know all too well that nothing's perfect, and you have to expect to
work-around a few problems, no matter what you ride.

I read with great interest the road test at
http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mckaw/99klr650.html (apologies if this has
already been covered by the group).

I have some questions about some of the "gripes" that were discussed in
this article.  While the overall impression of the bike was favorable, the
authors raised points about the following:

1.) Transmission: They say  "...Kawasaki has outdone themselves in the
transmission department and managed to engineer a  gearbox with a few extra
neutrals included. To keep things interesting, they pop up unpredictably,
mainly when downshifting..."  Is this a commonly known issue, or
idiosyncratic to the particular bike they tested?

2.) Front Brake:  They say it "...will lead to an understanding of why they
build those runaway truck ramps on long steep inclines..."  Oh my!  Is this
what prompted the "physics of braking" thread (I skimmed just a little).

3.) Starter:  They say  "...It can be a black art, this awakening of the
Swamp Thing..."  What the hey?  Electrical problems?

If real, are there known fixes for these issues?



Additionally, I already have a shopping list of stuff that I know I'm going
to need, and I would like to hear some recommendations:

1.) Windshield:  "Clearview +10"  Is this the best?

2.) Driveline Highway pegs.  Gots ta stretch out now and then, mon.

3.) Seat:  The current Corbin offering doesn't look very good (it seems to
be a "big valley") is this why I see several for sale used?  Didn't Gino
mention a new model he was working with Corbin on?  With a wide flat shape
that let's you move around?  Has there been any progress on that?  The
Russell Day-Long would be nice, but doesn't it interfere with the all
important "standing on the pegs" riding mode?

4.)  Bash plate.  Is the Moose plate really necessary, or is the stock one
good enough for a while?

5.)  Luggage.  Soft luggage sounds good, does the Kawasaki stuff need
saddle bag mounts to keep it from interfering with the rear wheel?  The
recent thread regarding the "Pac-Safe" product highlights the main problem.
I wonder I we could interest them in producing a big net that would cover a
whole bike from saddle bags to tank bag?  (I don't think the rubber coated
chicken wire, while clever, is quite in the same league..)

6.)  Center stand.  Really necessary?  How bout a Scottoiler and a can of
flat-fix instead?


Thanks for bearing with me.  Any information greatly appreciated.

Tom







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 14 Mar 1999 14:39:23 +0000

At 01:13 PM 3/14/99 -0600, Tom Meagher wrote:
>
>
>
>From: Tom Meagher@ICS on 03/14/99 01:13 PM
>
>Howdy Y'all!


    Back at 'ya!  :)


>
>1.) Transmission: They say  "...Kawasaki has outdone themselves in the
>transmission department and managed to engineer a  gearbox with a few extra
>neutrals included. To keep things interesting, they pop up unpredictably,
>mainly when downshifting..."  Is this a commonly known issue, or
>idiosyncratic to the particular bike they tested?



    The KLR's transmission is, er, typicaly a bit vauge. Not too bad, but not
the best. If you got by with an airhead's sorry-ass shifting, the KLR will
be a cinch.




>2.) Front Brake:  They say it "...will lead to an understanding of why they
>build those runaway truck ramps on long steep inclines..."  Oh my!  Is this
>what prompted the "physics of braking" thread (I skimmed just a little).



        The KLR's braking is, er, typicaly a bit vauge as well. It gets the job
done but not with much margin to spare.



>3.) Starter:  They say  "...It can be a black art, this awakening of the
>Swamp Thing..."  What the hey?  Electrical problems?



    Thats bullshit. They start just fine. The wiring harness could stand to be
a bit heavier but there are corrective measures for this as well.



>If real, are there known fixes for these issues?
>
>
>
>Additionally, I already have a shopping list of stuff that I know I'm going
>to need, and I would like to hear some recommendations:





>3.) Seat:  The current Corbin offering doesn't look very good (it seems to
>be a "big valley") is this why I see several for sale used?  Didn't Gino
>mention a new model he was working with Corbin on?  With a wide flat shape
>that let's you move around?  Has there been any progress on that?  The
>Russell Day-Long would be nice, but doesn't it interfere with the all
>important "standing on the pegs" riding mode?



    Personaly, I like the shape of the stock Corbin seat. The quality of the
materials used in the cover is another issue.



>4.)  Bash plate.  Is the Moose plate really necessary, or is the stock one
>good enough for a while?



    Depends on wether or not you are actualy going to bash it into anything or
not. If so, the plastic OEM "bashplate" will prove to be mostly decorative.
The Moose is tough to beat, though other products seem to work well enough.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 14 Mar 1999 12:28:18 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>Thanks for bearing with me.  Any information greatly appreciated.
>
>Tom


Welcome aboard Tom!  As for bearing with you, I'm glad for the company right
guys/Sarah?  = )

Arne (with his 4 day old A13)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 14 Mar 1999 13:32:02 -0700


|
|1.) Transmission:

An accurate description...I found a couple of those false neutrals yesterday...pulled up to a
stop light thought it was in neutral let out the clutch no movement deadstop no neutral light I
was somewhere between 1st and third...the word is "notchy" but I don't recall anyone having any
real trouble other than the imprecision in finding neutral. This is compounded with heavy
riding boots...

|2.) Front Brake:

Sucks...no two ways around it...the rear isn't a lot better but it locks up pretty good. Easy
fix to get passable...install progressive springs in the forks (first)...then ss brakelines...I
recommend front and back...


|3.) Starter:  They say  "...It can be a black art, this awakening of the
|Swamp Thing..."  What the hey?  Electrical problems?


No starting problems...mine improved much in cold weather when I put on the jet kit but this is
not a problem area.


|1.) Windshield:  "Clearview +10"  Is this the best?


Using the stock fairing you have the Clearview...they will help size you...or Rifle...most seem
to go with Clearview..I have an 8"...But several listers have gone to universal type handlebar
shields and report even better results...

|2.) Driveline Highway pegs.  Gots ta stretch out now and then, mon.


Excellent, I'm all over my bike when I ride...I put one foot or both over the pegs resting on
my achilles...then one foot on the pegs...one foot on the stocker...then one on the passenger
peg...then both on the passenger pegs..then both ankles over the passenger pegs...turn a little
sideways and do it all over again...tons of options...I would wait until Tim "Obe" Wan gives
you the new option of engine guard/pegs..they have a more refined look and blend well with the
sideracks..


|3.) Seat:  The current Corbin offering doesn't look very

Call Corbin..ask for Raul and request the "modified" KLR w/o the dip...he has it down...Gino's
seat is another variation as his (and Jake Jakeman's) is perfectly flat from front to
back...about 41/2 in the former dip area...and no "form fitted" area around the passenger
butt...take your pick either is killer...Russell guarantees your comfort...if you call or write
them...they send you a FAQ addressing the point about standing in the pegs

|
|4.)  Bash plate.  Is the Moose plate really necessary, or is the stock one
|good enough for a while?

The stock plate is trash...buy a Moose or another plate of your choice....the part number is in
the archives...the Moose works fine with the highway pegs and the Dual Star Centerstand if you
trim 11/4 from the rear...

|
|5.)  Luggage.  Soft luggage sounds good, does the Kawasaki stuff need
|saddle bag mounts to keep it from interfering with the rear wheel

Don't even think about soft luggage w/o Obe's side racks...I love my Ortlieb dry bags...a
terrific combo with the sideracks...no fuss no muss, 3 minutes off and on with carrying
handles...absolutely weatherproof...Obe has a new Samson version of his racks that include
provisions for fixed luggage they come with an option of a pair of color coordianted semi-soft
bags....

|
|6.)  Center stand.  Really necessary?  How bout a Scottoiler and a can of
|flat-fix instead?


Love my centerstand...last week couldn't find a place to put the bike fully loaded on the
sidestand w/o it falling over...(read the ride to the moon...one of the guys dropped his bike
about 4 times on the sidestand) popped it on the centerstand and no problem...

I think Scottoilers are overkill...I'll probably order one soon (g)...

|
|Thanks for bearing with me.  Any information greatly appreciated.


Pfffff...your nothing Tom...we just got done with Arne you aren't even close to being in his
league (g) from now on when a person comes on the list and asks about what to expect with the
KLR we'll just send him/her to the archives and have them click on author="Arne" and you'll get
everything you ever wanted to know about the KLR....Just kidding Arne...it was great for the
list and congrats on your new bike...

Kurt A12 El Poppo
Salt Lake City




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Oil Leak (repost - no response yet!)
Date: 14 Mar 1999 12:47:46 -0800

Hey listers . . .
I'm digging the physics of brakes thread (for real - keeps me thinking), but
I have a down-to-earth, real-world question. In the last month, I've noticed
a bit of oil on the right engine case. It SEEMS to be coming from the clutch
"thrust rod" (is that the right term, or is my mind just in the gutter)
opening. I only notice it if I've been pushing things a bit, like 90+ mph
for 15-20 minutes. The quantity isn't much, my sight-glass tells me I
haven't lost anything significant, but I hate to think of my beloved
GroundHog giving up any of its precious bodily fluids. I haven't yet done
the obvious - degrease the engine, put on a bit of talcum powder and ride.
However, I do want to know if anyone else hase experienced this, and what
the general concensus is - should I be worried? Here's the pertinent data:

A12 8500 mi.
Mobil 1 15w50 every 3000 mi with new filter
filled to top of sight glass
never down, never opened the case (just getting psyched for valve
check/adjust)

Thanks in advance for you support.

Mike Magier
98 GroudHog
(soon to be owner of Honda ST1100, too !!)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 14 Mar 1999 16:08:26 +0000

Tom Meagher wrote:
>
> From: Tom Meagher@ICS on 03/14/99 01:13 PM
>
> Howdy Y'all!
> (note the somewhat affected southern accent, I'm really a yankee stuck here
> in the great Republic of Texas).
>
> My compliments on the wonderful group you have here.  I just discovered it


Tom,

About the transmission.....I like it....I found that if you are timid
with it you may find a neutral between gears but for me it's been rare.
I shift deliberately and especially use the clutch and throttle
coordination on downshifts like Freddy Spencer tells his students on
TV.  My experience has been that new bikes are a little stiff anyways
until everything starts working in.  Be advised that the stock shift
lever is not top shelf and you may want to get an IMS brand.  Several
listers have broken them already and I'm one of them.

About the front brake....Yes it is not designed to stop a train....The
brake seems to be a trade-off of not too strong for dirt and just strong
enough for pavement.  Talk to some of the other listers about upgrades.
I've lived with a stock brake system for over 10 years and just ride
within the envelope.  My Ninja days are gone.

About the starter......I don't know what the big deal is about the
starter.....It's fine for me...I roll my bike outside, put it on the
side-stand, turn the fuel petcock on, thumb the choke, put the key in
the ignition and turn it to on, make sure the green neutral light is on,
and thumb the starter....Always hold the bars though to be ready to hit
the kill switch in case something weird happens like you're in a false
neutral because one of the kids played with your toy while you were
someplace else!

There have been some reports of side-stand cut out switches failing and
causing the bike to randomly go dead for a second or two while under way
(it's a built-in safety feature so that you don't ride away with the
kickstand down in gear).  I had mine replaced under warranty when it was
only a year old and haven't had any problems since.  Other listers may
have more information on this.

And never...I mean never over tighten the chain....It could cost you
well over a thousand clams to get the countershaft replaced if it gets
stripped (the shaft that has the front sprocket on it to drive the chain
to the rear wheel).

The KLR seems to be a bike that appeals to people who know motorcycles
and know a great value when they see one.  It has been refered to as the
"Swiss Army Knife" of motorcycles.  You take care of it and it will pay
you back big time.

Jeff
A2



Ab0o
>
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Avon AM24 Front Tire
Date: 14 Mar 1999 21:42:39 -0000

I've tried a Pirelli Mt80 and a Metzeler ME33 on the front and both were
great for the road.

The MT80 would offer some off-road ability.

I was always talked out of buying the gripsters as the Pirellis are
apparently better.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dreas Nielsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V2 #127
Date: 14 Mar 1999 14:20:36 -0800



> -----Original Message-----
> Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 13:13:53 -0600
> From: "Tom Meagher" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
>
<snip>
>
> I read with great interest the road test at
> http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mckaw/99klr650.html (apologies if this has
> already been covered by the group).
>
> I have some questions about some of the "gripes" that were discussed in
> this article.  While the overall impression of the bike was favorable, the
> authors raised points about the following:
>
> 1.) Transmission: They say  "...Kawasaki has outdone themselves in the
> transmission department and managed to engineer a  gearbox with a
> few extra
> neutrals included. To keep things interesting, they pop up unpredictably,
> mainly when downshifting..."  Is this a commonly known issue, or
> idiosyncratic to the particular bike they tested?

This is true (on my 2 KLRs, at least).  You are most likely to find these
false neutrals if you come to a stop in an upper gear and then downshift
while stopped.  If you downshift while decelerating, you will almost never
run into them.

> 2.) Front Brake:  They say it "...will lead to an understanding
> of why they
> build those runaway truck ramps on long steep inclines..."  Oh
> my!  Is this
> what prompted the "physics of braking" thread (I skimmed just a little).

There is general agreement on this point, but the seriousness of this
feature probably depends on your riding style (and history).

> 3.) Starter:  They say  "...It can be a black art, this awakening of the
> Swamp Thing..."  What the hey?  Electrical problems?

I've never had a problem.

In addition, the article said something about driving all day in torrential
downpours.  In my experience, the (stock) air filter gets saturated after
riding for a while in really heavy rain, especially with lots of traffic
spray.  (I've also achieved this effect going through about 6 inches of
water at 30 mph.)

Dreas Nielsen
Issaquah, WA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Clay <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 14 Mar 1999 16:03:13 -0600 (CST)


>I have some questions about some of the "gripes" that were discussed in
>this article.  While the overall impression of the bike was favorable, the
>authors raised points about the following:
>
>1.) Transmission: They say  "...Kawasaki has outdone themselves in the
>transmission department and managed to engineer a  gearbox with a few extra
>neutrals included.

Hmmm. I've never experienced this problem.

>2.) Front Brake:  They say it "...will lead to an understanding of why they
>build those runaway truck ramps on long steep inclines..."  Oh my!  Is this
>what prompted the "physics of braking" thread (I skimmed just a little).

I'll stay away from this one, except to say that I don't have a problem
with the front brake. But I live on the prairies...

>3.) Starter:  They say  "...It can be a black art, this awakening of the
>Swamp Thing..."  What the hey?  Electrical problems?

I don't know...my KLR has never once failed to start on the first try.
Perhaps they didn't use the choke.

>If real, are there known fixes for these issues?

The brakes really aren't very good, but there are several easy fixes,
ranging from upgrading the brake pads and lines [inexpensive] to changing
to a larger front rotor, usually in conjunction with pads/lines [more
expensive]. M.A.P. Engineering makes the appropriate KLR kit, which some
listers are very happy with.

>5.)  Luggage.  Soft luggage sounds good, does the Kawasaki stuff need
>saddle bag mounts to keep it from interfering with the rear wheel?  The
>recent thread regarding the "Pac-Safe" product highlights the main problem.
>I wonder I we could interest them in producing a big net that would cover a
>whole bike from saddle bags to tank bag?  (I don't think the rubber coated
>chicken wire, while clever, is quite in the same league..)

The Kawi soft luggage is quite good [I use all three pieces], and the
saddlebags won't get caught up in the rear wheel. What they will do is mess
up your plastic side panels, unless you buy Tim Bernard's side racks
[Driveline Services], which will work just fine with any soft saddlebags,
including any you already own. In other words, you don't need the Kawi
saddlebags per se, but you do need Tim's racks. If I were to do it again, I
would've just bought the racks from Tim, and the kawi tank bag. Then I
would've used my crappy old saddlebags that I've had for ten years, and
strapped a duffle to the back rack and saved myself some money.

>6.)  Center stand.  Really necessary?  How bout a Scottoiler and a can of
>flat-fix instead?

That's what I use [the flat-fix, not the Scottoiler, although I've never
had a flat]. I've lived for two years without one, so they're not realy
neccessary. However, I have to admit that I'd like to get one, just to make
maintenance easier.

hope this helps

Tom Clay
Winnipeg MB









-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Leak @ Balancer Plug
Date: 15 Mar 1999 09:18:37 +1000

[e-mail] wrote:

> Sorry for the location, but my wife hide my service manuals, know that I found
> them again it is indeed the balancer plug where my leak is, is their a seal
> that would cause the leak and has anybody changed that seal before, easy job
> or all nighter, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Easy job.
Take out the balancer plug and you will see a small bolt.
This bolt locks the balancer chain adjuster in place.
When you take out the bolt, there is a very small O-ring on it which
seals against the hole in the case.
The best time to remove the bolt is when you do an oil change.
That way, the oil comes out of the proper drain hole instead of
the balancer adjuster bolt hole.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 14 Mar 1999 17:57:06 EST

<< 1.) Windshield:  "Clearview +10"  Is this the best?

I have a +10" Clearview but was not satisfied with its level of protection
(though it is better than the stock windscreen).  I switched to a Slipstreamer
model CF-50 handlebar mount windshield and cut it 5'' from the bottom with a
jigsaw so that I could see over it while seated.  By cutting from the bottom,
I was able to keep the "flip" at the top of the windshield.  This setup is
rigid and offers better protection than the CLearview.  It cost approximately
$60.

 3.) Seat:   The Russell Day-Long would be nice, but doesn't it interfere with
the all
 important "standing on the pegs" riding mode? >>

I bought a Russell seat last September and consider it to be my best
modification to the bike.  It is very comfortable.  You can stand straight up
on the pegs without problem, but you cannot slide back that far without your
thighs hitting the seat bolsters.

Greg, A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Tire pressure for Avon AM24 Gripsters
Date: 14 Mar 1999 18:00:34 EST

I have purchased AM24 Gripsters, front and rear, and was curious what tire
pressure anyone could recommend for street use.  Rider and luggage weight is
about 200 lb. total. Thanks.
Greg, A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Peter Dahlheimer, MD" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Tom's KLR questions
Date: 14 Mar 1999 18:12:13 -0500

tom:  i've got about 25k miles, including one 6-day, 3500+ mile trip.

brakes:  yeah, they're a bit squishy, but i've never run into anything from
behind...  they work well enough.

starter:  never had a problem, unless the battery was dead (which did happen
once, standing in traffic for 5-10 minutes with electric gloves, vest and
chaps on.

tranny:  never once had it shift into neutral when i didn't want it to.  i'd
venture to say the guy riding it probably was used to an auto tranny (8^))
or some other bike with a real soft shifter.

windshield:  i VERY much prefer an el-cheapo bar-mounted shield i found for
$50.

highway pegs:  don't leave home without them.

seat:  i have a travelcade and like it alot.  however, i must say the stock
seat is not bad at all.  i would consider russell for long-distance
pursuits.

bash plate:  the stock one will crack if you test it.

luggage:  Ortleib Dry Bags are by far the greatest soft bags i have ever
seen.  incredibly water proof and durable.

center stand:  no, not necessary.

_pete
97klr650
76gl1000




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "bob kaub" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Ushuaia
Date: 14 Mar 1999 19:05:17 -0500

One of our listers, Andres Carlstein, is leaving in a few days - on his
trusty KLR650 - for Ushuaia, Argentina.
I visited him today in Binghamton, NY and he's pretty much ready to go.  The
bike looks good.  It has Progressive fork springs and shock absorber,
Russell stainless brake lines (yes, the front one is covered in clear
plastic), and a truly impressive GIVI three bag (top and two side) setup on
Givi top and side racks.  The Givi side racks are very well done.  He's got
some neat Aerostich bags as well, all stuffed full of, well, stuff!  As you
can imagine.  All he really needs now is a laptop computer.  Andres' phone
number is  607-748-0132 if you want to call and wish him well.  If you can't
call, think kind thoughts.  Thanks.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) exhaust/jet kits
Date: 14 Mar 1999 19:13:11 EST

I am in the market for an exhaust and jet kit for my 98 model. I have pretty
much made up my mind to buy the exhaust from Big Gun but I am curous as to
what you all think of the different jet kits available.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tom's KLR questions
Date: 14 Mar 1999 19:19:49 EST



Welcome to the LIST Tom! As for your KLR Questions, many have answered, but
I'll add a few things also:

Transmission:  I've never had any problem with my 98'. No false neutrals or
anything. I think the transmission is pretty smooth. not as smooth as a newer
Honda sportbike, but pretty smooth. My dad's R1100RT is way clunkier shifting
than the KLR.

Brakes: Just don't follow a car too closely. They are not good in a panic stop
situation. I wasn't paying close enough attention one time last year, had to
panic stop and the bike wouldn't stop in time. I went onto the side of the
road; but hey, that is something we can do on our KLR's without crashing :)
That wasn't the bike's fault though, but my VFR would've stopped much more
quickly.

Bash Plate - Just spend the $60 or so right away and order a Moose or MSR or
White Brothers Bash plate. That way you won't worry about it if you decide to
follow a trail somewhere. I broke my bash plate on a hidden stump riding in a
field last year. 1/3 of it just broke right off! I love the Moose, and for my
kinda of riding, it gives me mucho peace of mind. Putting a hole in your cases
would cost a lot more than a good bash plate, and in the last year, we have
heard of a few people who have holed their cases. I repeat....Get a good Bash
Plate if you plan on riding off-road, or on gravel at all.

Starter: No problems at all. After the jet kit install, the bike starts even
better, but it started just fine before! .

Shield: I use the tallest Rifle shield, but it wobbles and vibrates some. Hit
my head on it one day riding a wheelie, and jumping on a dirt track. Good for
cold weather.
Now I take it off unless it's 40 degrees or below out. I'm probably gonna buy
a handlebar mount for road trips.

 Seat: I've still got the stock one, cuz I can ride for 6 hours at a time
fairly comfortably on it. Might put something else on if I come across one,
but on the newer KLR's, it may not be necessary for you. Apparently, the newer
KLR's have better seat foam than older models.

Handguards: The stock ones are fine if you don't ride in tight tree-laiden
areas. I put on the Moose aluminum handguards w/spoilers, to protect my levers
from trees or falls. I ride in the dirt as much as possible :)

Fork Springs: Get the Progressives. Again about $60, and they improve the
front end dramatically in most situations. Front end is very mushy stock, and
will bottom out if you ride the KLR even a little agressive off road.

Glad to have you on the LIST,

FWIW,

Bill Swindle
A12 "Moose"
Montgomery, IL.








-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Windshield bracing/Saeng
Date: 14 Mar 1999 17:55:17 -0700

    My experience was different with the same shield. First one broke
after about 2 or 3k. The owner of Clearview (Nice guy; his shop is 50 miles
from here.) replaced & personally installed it for free. The second one
lasted 1 or 2k. I gave up. I travel through a lot of high wind areas + I go
faster than some. In my opinion the shield needs a brace for 2 reasons. The
first, obviously, is to keep it in one piece. The second is to push it
forward thus making it higher. This would result in real wind protection &
decrease turbulence, which is awful. I was thinking of having one built, but
as often as I drop this bike it wouldn't last long. Bogdan

    I have run the clearview +9 for a season and have experienced high
winds,
    but not problems what so ever...mind you its just one big piece of
    polycarbonate so I guess its pretty bombproof.  I'd buy another in a
second.

    Cheers,

    Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR MREs/Survival food
Date: 14 Mar 1999 18:29:20

Oh Listers,

I live on the east side of the San Francisco Bay, right smack on top of the
Hayward Fault.  (The San Andreas is better known, but the experts say that
when the Hayward finally slips the result could easily be a 7+ "seismic
event.")  I'm putting together an earthquake preparedness/Y2K/the
Russians-are-down-but-not-out-and-what-about-those
Chinese-communists/general paranoia kit together and could use a little
advice.  I've already got the shotgun, shells, and a case of whiskey but my
major question regards food. I tried my first MRE today and it seems like a
good system - much more palatable than the K rations I ate in the service,
low water requirement, and self heating to boot.  Cheap (under $5 apiece if
you buy a case) and with an incredible shelf life, it seems like the hot
ticket (as long as it doesn't make me constipated for 3 days like the K
rations used to).  I checked out the camping food at the local REI
(boutique d'outdoors) and it seemed pretty spendy plus it required more
water and a heating system.  Sooo... can any of you camper/survivalist
types out there suggest a good alternative to the MRE or is this the way to
go?

Thanks for your input,

Guy Cheney




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) exhaust/jet kits
Date: 14 Mar 1999 20:08:52 -0700

>I am in the market for an exhaust and jet kit for my 98 model. I have pretty
>much made up my mind to buy the exhaust from Big Gun but I am curous as to
>what you all think of the different jet kits available.


The only kits I've heard of are the K & N and DynoJet and as far as I can tell they
are the same...made by Dynojet...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Leak (repost - no response yet!)
Date: 14 Mar 1999 20:11:21 -0700

>the general concensus is - should I be worried? Here's the pertinent data:
>
>A12 8500 mi.
>Mobil 1 15w50 every 3000 mi with new filter
>filled to top of sight glass
>never down, never opened the case (just getting psyched for valve
>check/adjust)


Mike, the only thing I can see is that you're running your oil 10 ounces low all the
time...(g)...isn't it time we hit this one again...

Kurt (feeling a little mischievous)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fw: BC Canyons Rally '99
Date: 14 Mar 1999 20:18:16 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>GSer's,
>
>I posted this a few months back and wish to make one final post...if you
>are already a confirmed registrant or have no interest in a British
>Columbia dual purpose ride in late July, please hit your trash icon ...
>thanks for the patience:
>
>BC CANYONS RALLY 99
>
>>This is an invitation for adventure riders:
>
>While riding with a gang of 50 other GSers ( a few 650's and one guy on his
>new Triumph street rocket...[he said he left the GS at home])  last summer
>for three days of Idaho backroads on the way to the Missoula National  (big
>thanks to Mike from Boise), I decided it would be a lot of fun to share
>some of British Columbia's best riding with those interested in backroading.
>
>>Here is the concept:  This rally will be limited to a maximum of 20 riders
>who want to participate in a 3-5 day ride through a variety of canyons,
>forest service roads, some primo paved sections, and some "on your pegs"
>terrain. Each rider should have intermediate riding skills, be able to read
>good maps (a compass may help sometimes), be "self-reliant" and adventurous,
>choose to either camp or rent accommodations (each evening will offer dinner
>and the choice of camping or renting accommodation at local inns),  and be
>ready to ride along river canyons, desert (we have cactus in BC as well as
>snow, eh!), 4-wheel roads, mountain passes, and most excellent scenery.
>>
>>The dates for the rally are from July 26 - 30th, 1999 (full moon on the
>28th). The rally will convene in Kamloops, BC on the evening of July 25th
>for socializing and discussing the tour's outline. Each day will offer 150 -
>300 kms of riding and end with supper being provided. Each day's ride has
>optional pavement routes or good gravel roads as alternate routes for those
>who wish to vary their riding.
>>
>>Those who register for the rally will receive the following:
>>        * Rally itinerary;
>>        * EXCELLENT maps with routes highlighted and pertinent detailed
>guide notes;
>>        * accommodation information so participants can reserve their own
>>          lodging should they choose not to camp;
>>        * locations for gas along route to be identified;
>>        * suppers will be provided each night;
>>        * breakfast (coffee, fruit,and muffins) will be provided each
>morning;
>>        * campsite costs are covered for tenters;
>>        * probably some other crap also included.
>>        * recommended "approach routes" for riders from out-of-province
>>          so you can check out stupendous riding to and from this rally.
>>
>   ** Fantastic maps are being provided with the gracious generosity of
>MUSSIO     VENTURES LTD...publishers of BC's BEST backroad map books. **
>
>>This project is intended to be a cost-recovery project and IS NOT a
>commercial tour...  we organize the basics so you can enjoy the ride and
>know that showers, campsights and supper are waiting at the end of your
>day's ride.
>>
>>The cost will be $150 Canadian (about $100 US), eh?
>>
>>The route travels west from Kamloops, through old Hudson Bay trade routes
>and Caribou Gold Rush trails, and will travel primarily by gravel and dirt
>roads (some pavement is necessary for small stretches) through the towns of
>
>Cache Creek, Spences Bridge, Pavillion, Clinton, Bralorne, and Lilooet
>(these are the major gas stops). The 3-day ride will leave riders a few
>hours from Pemberton/Whistler (North America's top ski resort [w/glacier
>skiing in July]), and the 5-day ride brings riders either back to Kamloops
>or with the option to go to Vancouver or the Okanagan Valley.
>
>This ride offers some of BC's best riding in terms of some good paved sport
>sections, and a lot of off-slab roads.  An alternate route which is
>primarily paved for those who don't want the gravel/dirt components will be
>marked out on the maps ....this alternate route ends up at the same
>location each evening as the dirt riders ... the third night will be at
>Tyax Lodge and will require about 1-2 hours riding on GOOD gravel road from
>Lillooet...and the same to ride out the next day...either to Pemberton or
>back to Lillooet by gravel.
>
>You don't need to be Helge Pederson to join the alternate route (but he can
>come for free if he wants!)
>
>>We are floating this invitation out to you so you can consider next
>summer's riding plans now. More basic information can be obtained from me
>(Ged Schwartz) at "[e-mail]" Registration packages (maps,
>etc) will be mailed to interested parties who e-mail their addresses
>
>There are some vacancies remaining...so far the long distance award goes to
>*** from Arkansas...unless Erwin makes it across the Bering Straights on
>his Russian route from Germany.
>
>Registration cut-off date is May 31.
>
>Thanks for letting me clutter up the list with this post.
>
>Ged Schwartz
>Kamloops, BC
>[phone]
>81-80GS
>96 1100GSABS
>
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Leak (repost - no response yet!)
Date: 14 Mar 1999 22:20:51 -0500

I'd like to get to the bottom of this one too.  How much oil does the manual
tell you to put in and how much does it take to put the level to the top of
the eye glass?

As for the oil leak, here's my method.  Wash you engine case with gasoline
and then cut open a tube of bathroom silicone (cheaper than mechanics
variety and works just as well).  Now put a nice layer of the stuff on
anything that contains oil, this is the only reason my CR250 is still
usable.
Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>Mike, the only thing I can see is that you're running your oil 10 ounces
low all the
>time...(g)...isn't it time we hit this one again...
>
>Kurt (feeling a little mischievous)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Meagher" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 14 Mar 1999 21:24:37 -0600

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Larry,
Thanks for the advice.  I've been talking to "Wild West Honda/Kawasaki/BMW"
out here in good ol' Katy.  Anything on "59 south" seems to be on "the
other side of the Universe" (referring to the perpetual daylight traffic
jams through downtown Houston).

So you migrate north to Houston in the summer?  It must be for the cool
Houston summer climate, where the temperature rarely rises above 110
degrees F, and the humidity rarely exceeds 100%.  (personally, I seek
shelter (run away))...

My V-Max was miserable in the heat.  Rather like sitting astride a toaster
oven.  How is a KLR?

I never appreciated how comfortable the old Boxer twins were in the heat.
They seem to keep the heat away from your goodies pretty good.

Anyway, yeah, maybe we can do some exploration rides together, I don't
really know many good places to go around here yet...

Tom





---------------------- Forwarded by Tom Meagher/ICS/US on 03/14/99 09:33 PM
---------------------------

 (Embedded
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cc:




Tom,
I work in Houston in the summers and live near South Padre Island in
winter.
The KLR's are better than the article leads you to believe, I have had no
problems with the transmission or starting, the brakes well don't count on
them.  Most of us have installed Progressive Springs, a better bash plate I
use a MSR, and add stainless brake lines to fix the braking problem, the
bike
is easy to work on and being a ex R80G/S owner it goes where the beemer
won't.
You are lucky as Houston Kawasaki on 59South knows alot about KLR650's,
they
have helped me immensly in setting my bike up and they know the products as
they use them.   If you need a shake down cruise, come on down.
Good Luck
Larry


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--0__=JBYNXosKgTJIxIzpk7YHFJVU1wbv9eUHqo8CapWcxqZ0vbdaHcQOxJYO--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Meagher" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 14 Mar 1999 21:30:52 -0600





Tom,
Thanks for the comments!

What part of the planet do you hail from?

Hey, here's a KLR question:  How long have KLR's had 6 gallon tanks?

That was one of the favorite things about my old R90/6, one of the biggest
drags about the V-Max, and one thing that makes me go "Right ON Kawasaki!"

Tom





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Gaines" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR Seat Wanted - stock, Corbin, Russell, Sargent, ..
Date: 14 Mar 1999 21:42:22 -0600

Do you have an extra seat laying around you want to part with at a
reasonable price?
Interested in stock, Corbin, Russell or ??; in any condition,  Any year
should be OK.

Let me know what you have and how much you want for it.

Robert





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Meagher" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: KLR Welcome
Date: 14 Mar 1999 21:43:24 -0600

--0__=zepfCDFrgjZMvaa0ct84P3xluN9Tvxtpd6WUoMxit4Nzj4vpg2cn89VW
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii





Eric,
Thank you for the welcome.  I've been surprised and tickled by the response
to my posting, thanks to all!

(This doesn't have anything to do with a bunch of folks sitting around in
the cold, waiting wistfully for riding weather, does it?)

Yeah, your web page rocks!

As far as the worst braking motorcycle I've ever had, I'd have to nominate
my '69 XLCH.  I attribute at least 50% of my grey hairs to that son of a
bitch, and probably my trick knee too... (no electric start, and a kick
starter sadistically designed to disengage half way through every 7th kick.
ouch...)   ;--)

Tom






 (Embedded
 image moved   "Eric Jasniewicz" <ericjazz @ mindspring.com>
 to file:      03/14/99 07:44 AM
 PIC21302.PCX)




cc:




Welcome to the group Tom,
1) Transmission - I haven't noticed any problems, haven't heard of any
either.
2) Front brake sucks, plain and simple.  The dirt guys think it is fine,
but
if you have spent any time riding on the street, the front brake is
outright
frightening.  The hose flexes substantially, and brake fade is a problem as
well.  I installed a Fastline braided brake line, that helped give me a
better feel for what was going on at the rotor.  You really need to use
both
brakes full force when riding on the street, I really don't like not having
an extra few percent in reserve for emergencies.  This is the worst braking
motorcycle I have ever ridden,ranging from sportbikes to cruisers to dirt
bikes.  There is a larger rotor kit available for around $385 from MAP
Engineering.  Gino Pokluda has one and appears happy with the product.
3)  Haven't had any started problems yet.
You may want to check out my web page on the KLR, I've got some different
stuff and different opinions that may interest you.
Eric J
www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz




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--0__=zepfCDFrgjZMvaa0ct84P3xluN9Tvxtpd6WUoMxit4Nzj4vpg2cn89VW--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Meagher" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 14 Mar 1999 21:48:13 -0600





Arne,
It's great to be aboard!
I assume that A12, A13, etc.. refer to KLR model years or something?

Is A13 the latest?  I guess Kawasaki isn't superstitious,eh?  Many
airliners and sky-skrapers systematically avoid the use of that number.

Of course, we, in our scientifically enlightened state of rationality have
transcended such primitive voo doo, right?  (Knock on wood)...

tom







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Hi, another new subscriber
Date: 14 Mar 1999 22:49:07 EST

Hi guys.  I will be hanging around your list for a while trying to gather info
on the KLR.  It is my intent to buy one later in the year so I am trying to
learn what I can now.
Currently I have a Suzuki DR350s that I bought for the express purpose of
relearning how to ride off road.  I think it will be a fun bike but it is a
means to an end since I do not think it will make an acceptable long distance
type bike.  My goals in dual sport are probably two day tours in the Oregon
area, hopefully a longer tour in Mexico when time allows.
As for myself I am 43 and have been riding since 1969.  In addition to the
Suzuki  I have a Honda GL1500 and a Ducati 900 SS.  Currently ride about 10k a
year, at least 3k of which is on one tour.
Enough, I don't want to bore you with stuff about me.  I will also try not to
bore you with too many questions, many of which I am sure have been asked time
and time again.
Thanks in advance for any help you may offer.
Joe S.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Conall O'Brien)
Subject: (klr650) Sorry
Date: 14 Mar 1999 20:12:55 -0800 (PST)

Sorry for quoting back that entire digest to the list, I meant to send
it to myself.

Conall- time to get offline




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Meagher" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 14 Mar 1999 22:14:56 -0600





Kurt A12,
(Cool last name)
Thank you for the thoughtful comments.

Say, who is this mysterious "Obe Wan" of song and legend?
You make it sound like he makes the light saber of the KLR burn bright.

May the Force be with you.
Tom 0/0





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR:  Windsor, Ontario
Date: 14 Mar 1999 23:42:14 -0500

I know this message really doesn't pertain to the list but I am aware of the
fact that a few people on the list live in Windsor.  Anyway, does anybody
here live in Windsor or in a nearby surrounding town who has a room that
they could rent to me from either a months time to a year?  I don't know
anybody in Windsor and plan on moving from Sudbury in a few weeks so any
help would be appreciated.  Thanks, Stephen Rivett




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Level Leaker
Date: 15 Mar 1999 00:11:22 EST

On 3/14/99, [e-mail] writes:  snip

>Mike, the only thing I can see is that you're running your oil 10 ounces
>low all the time...(g)...isn't it time we hit this one again...
>Kurt (feeling a little mischievous)

 Tsk, tsk, tsk Mr. Simpson. How can you in good conscience spread
 false info to you fellow klrists?  Mike's oil leak may have come
 from accidentally adding oil above the top of the sight glass.
 (See owner's manual for details). The excess pressure then
 blows the seal out and voids any remaining warranty. (See
 Kawasaki Technical Bulletin of April 1, 1998  #1050-01).

 Redondo Ron  (who's using oil to fan the flames...again)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "K.D. Bailey" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Ranger KLRs
Date: 14 Mar 1999 23:56:36 -0600

Anyone got a picture of a military KLR?
How do they differ from the civilain version?
Can I order olive drab plastic from my Kawasaki dealer ? :)
K.D. Bailey



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 15 Mar 1999 00:33:08 +0000

At 09:30 PM 3/14/99 -0600, Tom Meagher wrote:
>
>
>
>From: Tom Meagher@ICS on 03/14/99 09:30 PM
>
>Tom,
>Thanks for the comments!
>
>What part of the planet do you hail from?


    Columbia, SC: Home of the USC Fighting Gamecocks (and all that crap,  :)


>Hey, here's a KLR question:  How long have KLR's had 6 gallon tanks?


    Since the introduction of the KLR 650 in 1987. The earlier KLR 600 had a
smaller tank.


>That was one of the favorite things about my old R90/6, one of the biggest
>drags about the V-Max, and one thing that makes me go "Right ON Kawasaki!"


    Mmmm, and my /7 has a bigger tank yet.


-Tom
loves big fuel tanks.
'96 KLR 650
'77 R60/7




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  Windsor, Ontario
Date: 15 Mar 1999 01:07:20 +0000

At 11:42 PM 3/14/99 -0500, Stephen Rivett wrote:
>I know this message really doesn't pertain to the list but I am aware of the
>fact that a few people on the list live in Windsor.  Anyway, does anybody
>here live in Windsor or in a nearby surrounding town who has a room that
>they could rent to me from either a months time to a year?  I don't know
>anybody in Windsor and plan on moving from Sudbury in a few weeks so any
>help would be appreciated.  Thanks, Stephen Rivett



    Why on Earth would you want to leave Sudbury? I mean, the mountains are so
beautiful...even if they are tailings from the nickle mines.  :)



-Tom
found out what open-pit mining looks like in Sudbury, and it aint all that
pretty.
'96 KLR 650






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  Windsor, Ontario
Date: 15 Mar 1999 01:42:29 -0500

26% unemployment for my agegroup...Sudbury is a pathetic little hole.  But I
do think Sudbury has a nice environment, lots of trees and trails.  Besides,
you can't get lost, there's always the Superstack to lead you home :)

-----Original Message-----
> Why on Earth would you want to leave Sudbury? I mean, the mountains are so
>beautiful...even if they are tailings from the nickle mines.  :)
>
>
>
>-Tom
>found out what open-pit mining looks like in Sudbury, and it aint all that
>pretty.
>'96 KLR 650





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) exhaust/jet kits
Date: 15 Mar 1999 01:47:43 -0800

I myself just ordered the Big Gun - for purely technological reasons - I
wanted a poster.
As for the jetting, I'm going to see what they recommend.

Arne - isn't technology great?  8^o

-----Original Message-----


>I am in the market for an exhaust and jet kit for my 98 model. I have
pretty
>much made up my mind to buy the exhaust from Big Gun but I am curous as to
>what you all think of the different jet kits available.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 15 Mar 1999 02:05:35 -0800


-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>From: Tom Meagher@ICS on 03/14/99 09:48 PM

>Arne,
>It's great to be aboard!

I've been bugging the shit out of these guys for over a month now.  For the
most part there is a large core of very helpful, knowledgeable people who
welcome any questions you might have.  A good idea for finding out info is
to search the archives.  You'll find them by clicking on the KLR650 logo in
the Dual Sport News web site - www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/index.html

>I assume that A12, A13, etc.. refer to KLR model years or something?


Correct.  The 1987 was the steak sauce.

>Is A13 the latest?  I guess Kawasaki isn't superstitious,eh?  Many
>airliners and sky-skrapers systematically avoid the use of that number.


>Of course, we, in our scientifically enlightened state of rationality have
>transcended such primitive voo doo, right?  (Knock on wood)...
>
>tom


A13 is the 1999 model.  I got a rabbit's-foot keychain with mine.

Arne (Bawana - boom chagalagalaga) Larsen





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Leak (repost - no response yet!)
Date: 15 Mar 1999 09:08:02 -0500

At 12:47 PM 3/14/99, Mike Magier wrote:
SNIP
> In the last month, I've noticed
>a bit of oil on the right engine case. It SEEMS to be coming from the clutch
>"thrust rod" (is that the right term, or is my mind just in the gutter)
>opening.

If you're referring to the part where the clutch cable actuates the clutch,
you may have a leaky seal.
The manual also states never to remove the shaft because it will damage the
seal.
Mark
B2
A2





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Ben Cook" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fuel Tank
Date: 15 Mar 1999 15:27:33 +0000



Can anyone tell me why the UK supplied KLR 650 has a 3,7 Gallon tank, yet the US
model has a 6.1 Gallon capacity. I've just bought one (picked it up yesterday in
fact) & would like to know if a) this message thing works & b) where I can get
hold of a 6,1 Gallon (or bigger) tank, & how much.
Bye for now.
Ben Cook





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Fuel Tank
Date: 15 Mar 1999 08:36:38 -0700

>>Can anyone tell me why the UK supplied KLR 650 has a 3,7 Gallon tank, yet
the US
model has a 6.1 Gallon capacity. I've just bought one (picked it up
yesterday in
fact) & would like to know if a) this message thing works & b) where I can
get
hold of a 6,1 Gallon (or bigger) tank, & how much.<<

The big question is if a 6.1 tank off of a KLR650A will fit on your KLR650C
model.  I have no idea if the mounting biscuits are the same and if there
are two bolts at the rear of the tank.  You will also need the radiator
shrouds that hook up to the tank.  Since most people do not replace the
tanks on their KLRs you will have to opt for the IMS unit.  I hear that
Acerbis offers a bigger tank for the C series KLRs.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KimpexGrip Heaters
Date: 15 Mar 1999 10:27:24 EST

Greetings;

  For those of you who have installed the grip heaters, I have this question:
where did you install the ON/OFF switch?  Thanks in advance for your time and
help.

John Paul Gray
Dana Point CA

94 ST1100
95 KLR650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Archives...
Date: 15 Mar 1999 08:56:26 -0700

>I've been bugging the shit out of these guys for over a month now.  For the
>most part there is a large core of very helpful, knowledgeable people who
>welcome any questions you might have.  A good idea for finding out info is
>to search the archives.  You'll find them by clicking on the KLR650 logo in
>the Dual Sport News web site - www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/index.html

I would suggest the web searchable archives at:

http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650


Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V2 #127
Date: 15 Mar 1999 11:39:09 -0500

>In addition, the article said something about driving all day in torrential
>downpours.  In my experience, the (stock) air filter gets saturated after
>riding for a while in really heavy rain, especially with lots of traffic
>spray.  (I've also achieved this effect going through about 6 inches of
>water at 30 mph.)


I was thinking about that while contemplating my stage 2 upgrade.  Part of
the open air box will be completely exposed (not even protected by the side
cover) if the cover is removed.  Do people just trim the top portion of the
filter cover or drill holes elcewhere in the air box, or what?  Any stage
two guys with experience / commentary on this?

BG





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] Overboots for wet weather
Date: 15 Mar 1999 11:48:52 -0500

A few weeks back (maybe longer) a lister said he was using the Neos
waterproof overshoe as part of his raingear. I found Neos Villager
overshoes, usually quite expensive ($50-80 depending on retailer) on
clearance at Campmor for.....$16.96! I have used an earlier version for
hiking in the past (had a half sole, not like these with a full sole)
and found them to be excellent supplements to gaiters. They run larger
than the Tingley (rubber) boots sold out of RiderWearhouse, as a Neos
XXL fit my hiking boots (size 11.5) comfortably. The Tingleys were ready
to rupture at the thought of my hiking boots.

check them here:
http://www.campmor.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=35212&prmenbr=226

HTH

Jake



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Philip Allen <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE:Dimensionally challenged
Date: 15 Mar 1999 12:03:26 -0500

I can now report that a 1999 KLR650 will fit into a late model Astro/Safari
van with the following  modifications.

1:  Remove tinted portion of windshield (3 Screws)

2:  Attach ratchet tiedowns to bars and lower fork legs (use the dimples)and
compress front suspension about 6".

3:  From ground level load bike ,front wheel first to clear rear roof line
and roll the bike in straight.

Not even a scratch !

Thanks for all the replies. More questions later I promise.


Phil



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuel Tank
Date: 15 Mar 1999 11:51:08 +0000

At 03:27 PM 3/15/99 +0000, Ben Cook wrote:
>
>
>Can anyone tell me why the UK supplied KLR 650 has a 3,7 Gallon tank, yet
the US
>model has a 6.1 Gallon capacity. I've just bought one (picked it up
yesterday in
>fact) & would like to know if a) this message thing works & b) where I can
get
>hold of a 6,1 Gallon (or bigger) tank, & how much.


    Apparently the decision was made my Kawasaki that the European market was
interested more in a lean "streetfighter" sort of bike. The "US Spec" KLR
was sold in the UK for a while in the late '80s, then was dropped untill
the introduction or the current model in the mid '90s. I think the Tengai
filled in part of the gap in the early '90s. From the US perspective (or,
at least the typical US KLR owners perspective) the UK KLR 650 as currently
sold is apparently an amalgam of KLR 650 and KLX 650 parts, and not all
that well chosen a combo, either. The little KLX-like tank combined with
the KLRs inferior front suspention is a pretty suspect idea in my book.


    As for a 6.1 gallon tank for your bike, I'n not sure if it would take the
big KLR tank, an aftermarket KLX big tank like the IMS product or none of
the above. Perhaps you friendly local Kawasaki dealer would know.



-Tom
'96 KLR 650
(the US one)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Wandering eye
Date: 15 Mar 1999 10:23:47 -0700

Well, I must admit that the MuZ Bahghira set up with the 7.5 gallon tank,
aluminum panniers and monster skid plate in the latest Touratech catalogue
has piqued my interest.  Has anyone rode or even seen on of these in the
flesh(without all of the gear of course)?  I know it got a luke warm
reception in MCN.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KimpexGrip Heaters
Date: 15 Mar 1999 12:22:30 EST

John Paul, I went to radio shack and bought a small "project case" . They have
a good selection, the one I used is about the size of a swollen pack of
cigarettes. I mounted the switch on the edge of the case and rat tail filed
the size opening on the seam where the cover screws on so the wires can come
out and I double back taped it to the instrument cover in front of the tack.
It looks pretty sanitary. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)NKLR oil changes
Date: 15 Mar 1999 09:44:40 -0800

Jeff,

>Hey, I don't want to stir any hornets nests, and don't want to debate, I
>just want the straight dope.

On the "oil hobby", there is no straight dope.  As Skip says, there are
"too many variables".  And there's no way to mess with a hornets nest
without "stirring it".

There's engines with *no filters* that outlast the most babied hobby
machine.  Other babied engines "wear out" not because of a lubrication
problem but because the owner needs to justify tearing his engine apart.
And everything in between.......

Basically, if you change your oil often, your KLR probabl;y run great for
50,000 miles.  Here's my basic rule of thumb, which I've picked from
various sources over about 30 years.  Change your filter per the
manufacturers recommendations but change your oil twice as often.

Tom


+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Insurance (WA)
Date: 15 Mar 1999 09:44:44 -0800

>Does this mean that we are going to
>get hosed because our bikes are the equivalent of SUV's?

Our bikes have nowhere near the destructive power of an SUV thus should not
require as much insurance.

>I don't understand why they are trying to push this now,
> when its always the rider that get hurt.

Now?  Because the sooner they win the sooner they get the money.  Look
around in any big city.  The biggest buildings are insurance companies.
There is a reason.

>the majority of accidents with motorcycles is shifting from
>the fault of the cage driver who didn't see the bike, to bikers who fail to
>negotiate a corner safely and crash "single vehicle accidents".If this is
>the case, then no harm is done to anyone other than the rider and his bike,

First of all, I think that's always been the case.  Lots of motorcycle
accidents are due to rider error.  Motorcyclists should know they're less
visible and not expect cagers to see a motorcycle approaching at 120mph on
a country road, for example.

The fact that motorcycles traditionally "cause little liability damage" (I
think) is the logic which allowed Washingtonians to skirt the mandatory
liability requirement.  It was a concession that allowed the WA legislators
to feel that they weren't shafting 100% of their constituents.

If we don't ALL (cagers included) start fighting them instead of
fingerpointing amongst ourselves we're just gonna pay for more skyscrapers.


Tom

+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) MC trailer design
Date: 15 Mar 1999 09:44:46 -0800

Hello,

I'm working on a trailer (for my van) to carry motorcycles.  I plan to
modify it to fit my tastes (it will fold up).

Does anyone know what ideal weight bias should be (tongue/axle) for
stability with minimum tongue weight?   Also what's the weight
bias(frt/rear) of a dirt bike?  The latter I know is easy to find but was
hoping a lister can just squirt me the answers.....

TIA

Tom

+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Airbox venting
Date: 15 Mar 1999 10:43:59 -0700

>I was thinking about that while contemplating my stage 2 upgrade.  Part of
>the open air box will be completely exposed (not even protected by the side
>cover) if the cover is removed.  Do people just trim the top portion of the
>filter cover or drill holes elcewhere in the air box, or what?  Any stage
>two guys with experience / commentary on this?
>
>BG


I drilled 12 1" holes in the top of the box and filled them with unifilters...I had to
split the backbone to get the airbox out...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650)NKLR oil and dog food
Date: 15 Mar 1999 11:02:31 -0700

>>On the "oil hobby", there is no straight dope.  As Skip says, there are
"too many variables".  And there's no way to mess with a hornets nest
without "stirring it".<<

I have to agree with Tom on this.  100% of the marketing of dog food is
geared towards the pet owner. All dog food will meet the animals basic
needs, it's the owner that needs the warm fuzzy feeling that they are
getting good stuff.  Same with motor oil.  If you change your oil every 2-3K
miles, you could run anything short of Crisco in your engine and it would be
happy.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Opinions about R100GS?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 12:55:07 EST

First of all - I have been a KLR rider for 3 years, I love the bike and have
no intentions of selling it.  Now - I have an opportunity to by a 91 R100GS in
nice shape.  I know there was a person on the list who mentioned in passing
having one and (it sounded like) not being very happy with it.  Any of you KLR
riders out there have experience with the GS's that you can share with me?
Lou in Minnesota



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Arne's new ride
Date: 15 Mar 1999 10:10:04 -0800 (PST)

> I bought a used A13 today with a whopping 27
> kilometers (18 miles) on it.

Congrats!

I hope you got a good price on it, 27 clicks is nothing
but a way to talk 'em down!

Now it's time to do that dreadful thing, break it in
the right way. I've been working away when I can, but
still have another 150 miles to go. For some reason it
seems to take sooo long under 4k rpm. Speed up, speed
down, speed up, speed down.

I just got a nice trunk for this thing, I picked up a
used Honda "Silver Wing" trunk, mounts like it was made
for the KLR, and looks like it could hold a
considerable amount of camping gear. Maybe even too
much weight if not careful. I'll link to some photos
after I'm done...
===
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) oil changes
Date: 15 Mar 1999 11:04:37 -0800 (PST)

--- Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]> wrote:
> OK. So I searched the archives and I'm going to go
> buy some Mobil 1
> synthetic motor oil in a weight appropriate to the
> list in the manual.
> 15W50 or 10W40 depending on what the back of the can
> says is better for
> So Cal conditions. If this is horribly wrong,
please,
> somebody, stop me
> before I do it.

Hi Sarah,

I had a GPZ 550 before with a nasty clutch slip, lots
of meat and good steel and correct adjustment, still a
bad slip. The local dealership recommended I drain and
flush the Amsoil (100% syn.) and use the Honda Golden
State(?) natural/syn. oil blend, stating the syn. oil
was just too sippery for the cluth. What ever the
reason for the slip, it stopped after getting away from
the 100% syn. oil.
Sounds plausable...



===
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) En"light"enment sought...
Date: 15 Mar 1999 11:04:39 PST

Fellow listers,

Went looking at the web site with the various tail lamp augmentation
systems (by the way, can someone send me the address for that again?)
and I'm thinking about getting a pair of red ones.  This isn't the
helmet contraption mind you (already on order) but a pair of allegedly
"super-bright" led lights that can run off either battery or system
power.  I would use them as additional tail lamps.  The electrical
system on my '97 KLR is bone stock.  While my license plate light is
still connected and operable, it's no longer required due to my having
relocated the plate.  My questions are the following:

- If I were to disconnect and/or disable the license plate light, would
that free up enough energy to run the little buggers?  From what I
remember reading, their power draw is minimal (I can't remember what it
was exactly).

- How would I set up the wiring?  Please keep in mind I'm wanting to use
them as brake lights, in conjunction with the current stock tail light.
Would I run a Y-split out of the current brake light wire (one for the
stock light, and another for the augment lights) and then another
Y-split out of one of those wires to supply power to the two separate
augment lights?  Or would that create too much of a load for that
particular "parent wire?"

Please respond in the most bare bones laymen's terms (my degree is in
finance).  Technical jargon will only give me nightmares.  Thanks in
advance...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR (just another chimp tryin' to get a banana)
"The Happy Hooligan"




Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) En"light"enment sought...
Date: 15 Mar 1999 11:05:27 PST

Fellow listers,

Went looking at the web site with the various tail lamp augmentation
systems (by the way, can someone send me the address for that again?)
and I'm thinking about getting a pair of red ones.  This isn't the
helmet contraption mind you (already on order) but a pair of allegedly
"super-bright" led lights that can run off either battery or system
power.  I would use them as additional tail lamps.  The electrical
system on my '97 KLR is bone stock.  While my license plate light is
still connected and operable, it's no longer required due to my having
relocated the plate.  My questions are the following:

- If I were to disconnect and/or disable the license plate light, would
that free up enough energy to run the little buggers?  From what I
remember reading, their power draw is minimal (I can't remember what it
was exactly).

- How would I set up the wiring?  Please keep in mind I'm wanting to use
them as brake lights, in conjunction with the current stock tail light.
Would I run a Y-split out of the current brake light wire (one for the
stock light, and another for the augment lights) and then another
Y-split out of one of those wires to supply power to the two separate
augment lights?  Or would that create too much of a load for that
particular "parent wire?"

Please respond in the most bare bones laymen's terms (my degree is in
finance).  Technical jargon will only give me nightmares.  Thanks in
advance...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR (just another chimp tryin' to get a banana)
"The Happy Hooligan"




Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: (klr650) HELP!!!
Date: 15 Mar 1999 14:07:08 -0500

At 7:05 PM 3/14/99, bob kaub wrote:
>One of our listers, Andres Carlstein, is leaving in a few days - on his
>trusty KLR650 - for Ushuaia, Argentina.

Hi Folks,

I'm traveling with Andres for part of the way, but I have a problem with my
Tengai which requires me to remove my magneto flywheel.
I need tool #57001-1184, "magneto holder" to do this.

Do any of you own this tool? If so, would you FedEx it to me overnight
(charge my account)??  I'll replace it and order a new one for you from
Fred Hink and have it sent directly to you. Fred doesn't have it in stock
and therefore I wouldn't have it in time.

Thanks,
Mark
B2
A2





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Opinions about R100GS?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 14:09:29 -0500

I have both the BMW R100GS/PD and more recently the KLR650.  To
me the bikes are somewhat similar, but for different purposes.  The
R100GS/PD is very comfortable for long touring type rides. I know
that many KLR owners use this bike for touring.  Time will tell if I
likewise do so.  For the BMW  I have installed the tall Parabellum
windshield to help with the windblast.  This bike is rarely ridden
off road.  It is nevertheless a neat, funky bike.  There is a
separate "cult" for the GS bikes.  You may wish to subscribe to the
GS list.  A web page with info on the GSs can be found at:

http://www.micapeak.com/bmw/gs/gs.html

A faq on the GS list is found at:

http://www.rcb.org/bmw-gs.htm


With respect to the KLR, I bought an '88 A2 a couple of weeks ago.
I rode it the 16 miles from the seller's home to my home - in snow
flurries - followed by my wife.  Since that time, I've stripped the bike
down and am going through a clean, lube, adjust, modify exercise.

The KLR mods are essentially those given on the KLR web page
i.e., braided brake lines, DP brake pads, moose skid plate, K&N filter,
jet kit, and progressive fork springs.  It already had a SuperTrap
exhaust.

I'm also checking (and adjusting) the valve shim clearances.  The BMW
is world's ahead of the KLR in this regard.  I plan to use the KLR for
more off-road riding as it is lighter than the GS/PD.

Ride Safely
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio

-----Original Message-----


>First of all - I have been a KLR rider for 3 years, I love the bike and have
>no intentions of selling it.  Now - I have an opportunity to by a 91 R100GS in
>nice shape.  I know there was a person on the list who mentioned in passing
>having one and (it sounded like) not being very happy with it.  Any of you KLR
>riders out there have experience with the GS's that you can share with me?

>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Arne's new ride
Date: 15 Mar 1999 11:11:55 -0800


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>


>I just got a nice trunk for this thing, I picked up a
>used Honda "Silver Wing" trunk, mounts like it was made
>for the KLR, and looks like it could hold a
>considerable amount of camping gear. Maybe even too
>much weight if not careful. I'll link to some photos
>after I'm done...
>===
>Rev. Chuck
>'99 KLR651
>:^)>+


Ya - the dreaded break-in.  I'm going to put either a magnetic drain plug in
or stick some super-duty magnets to the oil filter before I start breaking
the bike in.  I figure that this is the time where most of the metal filings
will occur.

Did you have to make any changes to your stock rack to adapt the Silverwing
trunk?  I'd be interested to know.  There seem to be a lot of old
Silverwings around here.

Thanks,

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: West Hovland <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Don't sweat it...
Date: 15 Mar 1999 11:08:32 -0800



My idea is :

Don't sweat the petty stuff, and

Don't pet the sweaty stuff.

West




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Hamilton, Peter F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Gripsters -- tubeless?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 14:28:49 -0500

Got a new set of Avon Gripsters for the KLR from DK the other day.  The
packaging sez they're tubeless tires.  Called DK about this and they said
that the tubeless and tube tires are one and the same.  They lying to me???

--pete

Peter F. Hamilton
[phone]
Mechanical Engineer
[e-mail]
Lockheed Martin Control Systems Hybrid Electric Vehicle Development
"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away"     -- Tom Waits




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gripsters -- tubeless?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 12:37:46 -0700



>Got a new set of Avon Gripsters for the KLR from DK the other day.  The
>packaging sez they're tubeless tires.  Called DK about this and they said
>that the tubeless and tube tires are one and the same.  They lying to me???
>
>--pete


yep...but you can just run them with a tube...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Wandering eye
Date: 15 Mar 1999 14:44:30 -0500

I rode both the Baghira and the Mastiff at Daytona. VERY fast bikes. The
gearing differs, as you would expect, between the two with the Bag
makin' it down low and the Mastiff makin the higher top end. I found the
handlebar controls on the Bag to be a little cheesy and they even
malfunctioned resulting in a more interesting ride. The dash light said
it was in neutral, but the electric start wouldn't engage to start it at
the first stop light. When we (me and the ride leader) finally got the
false neutral corrected, the starter engaged and he said "hang on, we
gotta catch the group!" (Unlike most manufacturers, Guzzi/Muz/Laverda
rides were NOT the usual ordered cattle call-they consisted of "free for
all" passing and wild curvy, back road bombing at illegal speeds. You
sign a disclaimer/release for a reason with these guys.)  I hung on and
he sped off on a Guzzi Centauro Sport. I blasted right behind him thru
the gears struggling to maintain his 160-170 kph pace thru traffic. I
had no idea waht this bike was capable of, on my first ride, redlining
the hell out of the motor. We topped out at a comfortable 180kph (the
gauges only read kph), well I did, he could have legged it much faster I
know. The bike was rock solid, braked well (stock SS lines help),
cornered dreamily (Pirelli DS tires on this one, type forgotten) and
plain hauled ass. The only stange part was feeling like I was sitting
nearly over the front wheel. Once I got that fear set aside (QUICKLY) it
was a blast. The one I rode had a S.T. IDS muff and Ohlins remote
reservoir rear susp. I was thoroughly impressed with its capabilities.
660cc Yamaha motor earned its keep that day. The body work looks like it
is molded Play-Doh though. Not bad, just funky coloring and plastics in
strange intertwined stylings and a dirtbike seat. VERY high seat, anyone
under 6'0" should expect to tip toe at first until you load the
suspension; moreso than the KLR.

Jake

Gino F Pokluda
wrote:
>
> Well, I must admit that the MuZ Bahghira set up with the 7.5 gallon tank,
> aluminum panniers and monster skid plate in the latest Touratech catalogue
> has piqued my interest.  Has anyone rode or even seen on of these in the
> flesh(without all of the gear of course)?  I know it got a luke warm
> reception in MCN.
>
> Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Shelton, John" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Heated Grips Please
Date: 15 Mar 1999 11:41:26 -0800

>...Arnie, one is a keyed HOT and the other is ground, I use them for my
>heated hand grips, Frank...

Which heated hand grips do you use? I have heard there is some wrap-around
and velcro on or something brand, anyone have any experience using these? Or
which ones are 'the dope'? and where does the switch mount? Has anyone taken
a photo of the hot set-up and stuck it up for viewing anywhere?

Sorry for all the questions but Id like to add a little BMW convenience to
my dirt machine!
john



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gripsters -- tubeless?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 12:48:43 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Got a new set of Avon Gripsters for the KLR from DK the other day.  The
>packaging sez they're tubeless tires.  Called DK about this and they said
>that the tubeless and tube tires are one and the same.  They lying to me???
>
>--pete


Sorta,  There is a tube type and tubeless front tire but I am not sure about
the rear.  Avon makes an S and a T speed rating Gripster for the front and
the rear.  The Tubeless is a T speed rated tire.  118 mph vs 112 mph

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Gripsters -- tubeless?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 14:46:50 -0500

Those gripster H tires look nice, but I think theyre radial tires. Would
this affect use on the KLR at all? They will likely be more difficult to
mount, as most radials I've seen have pretty thick sidewalls. anyone here
use the gripster H?


>Got a new set of Avon Gripsters for the KLR from DK the other day.  The
>packaging sez they're tubeless tires.  Called DK about this and they said
>that the tubeless and tube tires are one and the same.  They lying to me???
>
>--pete


Sorta,  There is a tube type and tubeless front tire but I am not sure about
the rear.  Avon makes an S and a T speed rating Gripster for the front and
the rear.  The Tubeless is a T speed rated tire.  118 mph vs 112 mph

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Gripsters -- tubeless?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 12:50:40 -0700

>>Called DK about this and they said
that the tubeless and tube tires are one and the same.  They lying to
me???<<

Yes and no.  The Tubeless has a heavier carcass as it has more material
since it is run without a tube.  It will work fine with a tube, but will be
a bit heavier than a tubetype with a tube combo. I know lots of riders who
run the heavier tubeless with a tube for added security.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) ACK! rear soft luggage rack?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 19:48:22 +0000

So I have these Ortlieb dry bags (through Vik, from his friend,
originally from Rider Wearhouse (I think)). And I'm planning on leaving
really soon on a trip. But - judging from the archives and people's
comments - I need a rack of some sort to prevent melting. Who is this
mysterious Obe Wan? How can I get a hold of him? Does anyone have a rack
premade or is this a special order? Tim Bernard? Heard that name bandied
about, too. Vik, ever get anywhere with your idea of building your own
rack?

Can anyone help me out on short notice here?

Sarah

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) En"light"enment sought...
Date: 15 Mar 1999 14:49:40 EST

On 3/15/99, [e-mail] writes: snip

>Went looking at the web site with the various tail lamp augmentation
>systems (by the way, can someone send me the address for that again?)
>...From what I remember reading, their power draw is minimal
>Would...a Y-split out of the current brake light wire...create too much
>of a load for that particular "parent wire?"

 It was our resident monk Hiro who lit the way. I checked the site.
 The brake light consists of two separate boxes that are supposedly
 twice as bright as the stock light and only draws 35 milliamps
 combined. That shouldn't overload your wires even if you
 continued to power the plate bulb.
 http://members.aol.com/pkstaige/lifebrite.html

 "Enlightenment says the world is nothing but a dream.
  Everything's an illusion and nothing is real. Wake up." -V. Morrison

 Redondo Ron  (what's the sound of one piston thumping)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ACK! rear soft luggage rack?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 13:03:16 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>So I have these Ortlieb dry bags (through Vik, from his friend,
>originally from Rider Wearhouse (I think)). And I'm planning on leaving
>really soon on a trip. But - judging from the archives and people's
>comments - I need a rack of some sort to prevent melting. Who is this
>mysterious Obe Wan? How can I get a hold of him? Does anyone have a rack
>premade or is this a special order? Tim Bernard? Heard that name bandied
>about, too. Vik, ever get anywhere with your idea of building your own
>rack?


Tim "Obe Wan" Bernard
Driveline Services
7577 W Lemhi St.
Boise, Idaho  83709
1-800-444-8770

He's on the list but still suffering from meeting with his accountant two weeks ago on
Black Monday...HEY TIM...you have a customer...

Kurt

>Can anyone help me out on short notice here?
>
>Sarah
>
>--
>Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
>There is a field.
>I'll meet you there.
>                -Rumi
>
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Paul Christenson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) MC trailer design
Date: 15 Mar 1999 12:12:55 PST

>Does anyone know what ideal weight bias should be (tongue/axle) for
>stability with minimum tongue weight?

Optimum is 1:9; 1/10 of the total weight should be on the hitch.  I
wouldn't go far from that in either direction, but if the ratio changes
between loaded/unloaded, I'd keep a minimum of 1/10 on the tongue.

So long as the rating of the hitch isn't exceeded, you can pile as much
as you want on the tongue.  Going below 1/10 can cause handling
problems; even instability.
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Paul Christenson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650)NKLR oil ,dog food, and Crisco
Date: 15 Mar 1999 12:20:19 PST

>If you change your oil every 2-3K miles, you could run anything
>short of Crisco in your engine and it would be happy.

I've seen Crisco run in an engine.

The difference is that it was used as fuel...
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated Grips Please
Date: 15 Mar 1999 13:16:05 -0700

John,  I have the velcro ones from Aerostich.  They work well are cheap and
can be moved from bike to bike easily.  I have never used hardwired heated
grips with the element part of the grip so I can't compare.

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>>...Arnie, one is a keyed HOT and the other is ground, I use them for my
>>heated hand grips, Frank...
>
>Which heated hand grips do you use? I have heard there is some wrap-around
>and velcro on or something brand, anyone have any experience using these?
Or
>which ones are 'the dope'?





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ACK! rear soft luggage rack?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 13:22:21 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>So I have these Ortlieb dry bags (through Vik, from his friend,
>originally from Rider Wearhouse (I think)). And I'm planning on leaving
>really soon on a trip. But - judging from the archives and people's
>comments - I need a rack of some sort to prevent melting.

No I used the dry bags without a set of side protectors for a trip with no
troubles - just mount them farther forward on the bike so they don't touch
the exhaust.  This will scratch up your plastioc side pannels so use a cloth
cover if you care about this - I didn't bother.

> Who is this
>mysterious Obe Wan? How can I get a hold of him? Does anyone have a rack
>premade or is this a special order? Tim Bernard?

Tim Bernard is the man to call.  Maybe he has a set ready and can UPS them
to you.  His contact info is on the KLR part of the DSN page.

> Heard that name bandied
>about, too. Vik, ever get anywhere with your idea of building your own
>rack?


Yes, my prototype box will be ready to look at in a day or so then its off
to the powder coaters and ready to use.  The problem is this box will in no
way help you with soft luggage.  If you really want side protectors and
can't get any through Tim in time a visit to your local steel or aluminum
fabrication shop will probbaly get you soemthing functional and cheap if not
pretty.

Kawi also sells a right side side protector, but from the comments on the
list it sounds cheezy and expensive.


Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuel Tank
Date: 15 Mar 1999 15:30:53 +0000

Ben Cook wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me why the UK supplied KLR 650 has a 3,7 Gallon tank, yet the US
> model has a 6.1 Gallon capacity. I've just bought one (picked it up yesterday in
> fact) & would like to know if a) this message thing works & b) where I can get
> hold of a 6,1 Gallon (or bigger) tank, & how much.
> Bye for now.
> Ben Cook


Ben,

As Gino mentioned about the two tank mounting bolts where the seat
slides into the tank it made me think of the forward bolt holes on the
side panels and how those screws fasten to mounting surfaces under the
tank in precise locations also.  You may need to check to see if your
side panels are similar dimensionally to the U.S. KLR.  If they are
specific to your model's tank configuration only then you have another
challenge to deal with.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated Grips Please
Date: 15 Mar 1999 12:37:04 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>Which heated hand grips do you use? I have heard there is some wrap-around
>and velcro on or something brand, anyone have any experience using these?
Or
>which ones are 'the dope'? and where does the switch mount? Has anyone
taken
>a photo of the hot set-up and stuck it up for viewing anywhere?
>
>Sorry for all the questions but Id like to add a little BMW convenience to
>my dirt machine!
>john

I've never used heated grips on any of my bikes.  Are they nice?  I guess
these little perks beat the shit out of frozen fingers...

Arne - cold hands/warm heart




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ACK! rear soft luggage rack?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 12:51:21 -0800

>-----Original Message-----
>From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR list <[e-mail]>
>Date: Monday, March 15, 1999 12:55 PM
>Subject: (klr650) ACK! rear soft luggage rack?
>
>
>>So I have these Ortlieb dry bags (through Vik, from his friend,
>>originally from Rider Wearhouse (I think)). And I'm planning on leaving
>>really soon on a trip. But - judging from the archives and people's
>>comments - I need a rack of some sort to prevent melting. Who is this
>>mysterious Obe Wan? How can I get a hold of him? Does anyone have a rack
>>premade or is this a special order? Tim Bernard? Heard that name bandied
>>about, too. Vik, ever get anywhere with your idea of building your own
>>rack?
>
>
>Tim "Obe Wan" Bernard
>Driveline Services
>7577 W Lemhi St.
>Boise, Idaho  83709
>1-800-444-8770
>
>He's on the list but still suffering from meeting with his accountant two
weeks ago on
>Black Monday...HEY TIM...you have a customer...



Possibly Two!

I just noticed a response from Vik pop up too.  Am I the only one here who
has a unique work schedule?  I guess not.

Arne - there's nothing like a good rack!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR (klr650) oil changes
Date: 15 Mar 1999 16:00:42 -0500


>bad slip. The local dealership recommended I drain and
>flush the Amsoil (100% syn.) and use the Honda Golden
>State(?) natural/syn. oil blend, stating the syn. oil


Nothing against this oil, but I was burning almost a quart of this stuff
every couple of race weekends (in my Ducati), then tried a different oil and
haven't burned a single drop since.   Needless to say I was glad I tried
this before I had it torn down to look at valves & rings.  Much happier with
Mobil 1 for four bucks a quart.
BG




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  MC trailer design
Date: 15 Mar 1999 16:23:16 -0500

The weight should also be nearly 50/50 front rear in order to be able to
pick the trailer up and put it on the hitch easily.  If you do it right your
8 year old will be able to put the trailer down on the hitch while you back
up.

-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>


>>Does anyone know what ideal weight bias should be (tongue/axle) for
>>stability with minimum tongue weight?
>
>Optimum is 1:9; 1/10 of the total weight should be on the hitch.  I
>wouldn't go far from that in either direction, but if the ratio changes
>between loaded/unloaded, I'd keep a minimum of 1/10 on the tongue.
>
>So long as the rating of the hitch isn't exceeded, you can pile as much
>as you want on the tongue.  Going below 1/10 can cause handling
>problems; even instability.
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 15 Mar 1999 14:16:18 -0800 (PST)

> It's great to be aboard!

Tom,
I don't think you could have found a more rounded
group, we have 'em all from "know-the-reason" engineers
to "where-am-I" star gazers. I have learned more from
this list about KLR's, touring readyness AND personal
reasons to choose: tires, oils, front fenders, etc.
than I could anywhere else. My point is simple, ride,
learn, share, ride more.

> Is A13 the latest?  I guess Kawasaki isn't
> superstitious,eh?  Many airliners and sky-skrapers
> systematically avoid the use of that number.

I don't know about superstition, but it does make me
wonder if my A13 is Y2K ready...
Is there any embedded timers or clocks we should know
about? heh, heh, heh.

Welcome Tom!



===
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 road test questions, etc...
Date: 15 Mar 1999 14:16:18 -0800 (PST)

> It's great to be aboard!

Tom,
I don't think you could have found a more rounded
group, we have 'em all from "know-the-reason" engineers
to "where-am-I" star gazers. I have learned more from
this list about KLR's, touring readyness AND personal
reasons to choose: tires, oils, front fenders, etc.
than I could anywhere else. My point is simple, ride,
learn, share, ride more.

> Is A13 the latest?  I guess Kawasaki isn't
> superstitious,eh?  Many airliners and sky-skrapers
> systematically avoid the use of that number.

I don't know about superstition, but it does make me
wonder if my A13 is Y2K ready...
Is there any embedded timers or clocks we should know
about? heh, heh, heh.

Welcome Tom!



===
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) To: "'[e-mail]'" <[e-mail]>
Date: 15 Mar 1999 15:18:33 -0700

Like many others of our fraternity/sorority, I've taken delivery of one of
Fred's " bend not brake " shift levers. Is there something analogous in the
way of clutch levers? Have any of you had any luck heating & bending back
your clutch lever? Eating dainty food is O.K. with my pinky pointing up, but
I'd rather pull in my clutch with all fingers. Bogdan



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Opinions about R100GS?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 15:26:13 -0700




>First of all - I have been a KLR rider for 3 years, I love the bike and have
>no intentions of selling it.  Now - I have an opportunity to by a 91 R100GS in
>nice shape.  I know there was a person on the list who mentioned in passing
>having one and (it sounded like) not being very happy with it.  Any of you KLR
>riders out there have experience with the GS's that you can share with me?
>Lou in Minnesota


Go here and search on r100gs...I just got over 50 hits...Skip Faulkner wrote some
comparisons...the other thing you could do is to subscribe to the GS list and ask them
any questions you have...Gino had one as well...


>http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Arne's new ride
Date: 15 Mar 1999 14:35:49 -0800 (PST)

> I just got a nice trunk for this thing, I picked up
> a used Honda "Silver Wing" trunk, mounts like it was
> made for the KLR...

>> Did you have to make any changes to your stock rack
>> to adapt the Silverwing trunk?  I'd be interested >>
to know.  There seem to be a lot of old Silverwings >>
around here.

Not a thing changed on the bike. When I first brought
the trunk home I just stuck it on the rack and eye'd
things up, I could not believe it, the clamps mounted
on the trunk matched the rack like it was just taken
off. I will move the trunk back on its mounts a couple
inches though, the back rest pad hanges over the back
of the seat that much and I want as much seat available
as possible because all my touring will be with the
wife.

Now I have to get rid of that 70's paint job: a light
blue sunrise on a dark blue background, all metal
flake. NOT a KLR thing at all!

Good luck Arne.
===
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) ENGINE CHOPPY
Date: 15 Mar 1999 22:48:43 -0000


Lately, when I change down gears then accelerate again the engine has
sounded a bit choppy.  It sounds, but does not feel, as though I am in too
high a gear.  It smooths out at around 3,000 revs and doesn't seem to be
affecting the overall performance of the bike.

Has anyone else experienced this or have any idea what the problem is?



Regards,


GREIG STEVENS




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR (klr650) oil changes
Date: 15 Mar 1999 14:53:41 -0800 (PST)

> >bad slip. The local dealership recommended I drain
> >and flush the Amsoil (100% syn.) and use the Honda
> >Golden Spectro(?) natural/syn. oil blend, stating
> >the syn. oil...
>
>
> Nothing against this oil, but I was burning almost a
> quart of this stuff
> every couple of race weekends (in my Ducati), then
> tried a different oil and
> haven't burned a single drop since.   Needless to
say
> I was glad I tried
> this before I had it torn down to look at valves &
> rings.  Much happier with
> Mobil 1 for four bucks a quart.
> BG
>

Did I mention I sold the bike before the next oil
change? I really have no experience with this Honda
oil, but I hear it is great lube. I like Castrol GT
10w40 myself. Any petroleum engineers out there have
reasons not to use this stuff, like all the suspended
particulates in Pennzoil?
Any takers?


===
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Peter Dahlheimer, MD" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) side protectors for saddlebags
Date: 15 Mar 1999 18:28:56 -0500

i have my own quick and dirty and cheap solution to the problem of melting
plastic (also have ortlieb dry bags.  LOVEM).

i had an old rocker panel from an old vw beetle sitting in the garage.  i
just cut it to fit, bolted the bottom end using one of the passenger footpeg
bolts and the other to the rear muffler top bolt using a spacer made of flat
stock (bent).  the rocker panel was convenient because it had a rubbery
covering on it and i had it handy, but anything of similar construction
(i.e., metal and bendable/cuttable) would work fine.

_pete





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Leslie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) New bike and Questions
Date: 16 Mar 1999 18:36:10 -0500

    Hello all, one of my roommates just picked up a 93' BMW K1100LT...for
around $7,000 really nice bike...and $1850 under blue book value....... I
rode it for a bit on Saturday....nice and smooth ride, has a Corbin seat and
adjustable windshield.  Lots of Storage boxes too....I'm not used to the
shaft drive though.
    Anyhow, I was wondering if any of you might own one or know someone who
does, so that I could get some basic info for him.  He doesn't have an
internet account, so I am going to mediate for him.  Any info or comments
would be helpful...especially on the ABS brakes...I have them on my car, so
I know the basics...but don't know about the ABS on bikes...the bike came
with a Clymer for the K100 series, it covers the K1000LT, but I don't know
how much......the owners manual was not on the bike....
    Only complaint I have had about the bike is the Radio.....my bike
doesn't have one...and you can't start the bike on the side stand even when
the bike is in neutral...out of the many bikes that I've owned this is the
first with a neutral lever down kill switch..is that normal for the larger
touring type bikes...I like to start mine and then finish getting geared
up.....and besides its kinda cold natured from what I saw.  Thanx for any
help or direction to a Bavarian site for info....Les...

Kat750, KLR650, NX250, XR350




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gripsters -- tubeless?
Date: 15 Mar 1999 18:41:10 -0800

Yup, they ARE lying to you.

 Called DK about this and they
>said
>that the tubeless and tube tires are one and the same.  They lying to
>me???

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated Grips Please
Date: 15 Mar 1999 18:47:47 -0800



>Which heated hand grips do you use? I have heard there is some
>wrap-around
>and velcro on or something brand, anyone have any experience using
>these?

I have a set of these (bought from Rider Wearehouse). They work fine plus
you can easily unplug them in the summer and stow them easily. I bought
mine without a switch and bought an in-line switch (like on your
Grandma's heating pad) and plugged it into the accessory wires hanging
from the headlight. The only negatives I can see are that it makes your
grips kinda big and you have to keep your hands wrapped around them
(including the ends of your fingers) or they only warm your palms...
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR (klr650) oil changes
Date: 16 Mar 1999 11:02:40 +1000

Rev. Chuck MacKarness wrote:

[...]
> 10w40 myself. Any petroleum engineers out there have
> reasons not to use this stuff, like all the suspended
> particulates in Pennzoil?

I would have thought that keeping particulates suspended was good
since they get drained out at the next change, or if big enough get
held in the filter.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ENGINE CHOPPY
Date: 16 Mar 1999 10:59:33 +1000

Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY) wrote:

> Lately, when I change down gears then accelerate again the engine has
> sounded a bit choppy.  It sounds, but does not feel, as though I am in too
> high a gear.  It smooths out at around 3,000 revs and doesn't seem to be
> affecting the overall performance of the bike.

Smooths out at ~3000? At what revs is this "choppy" happening?
(For the non-Aussies out there hoping for a translation, I don't
know what is meant by "choppy" here either).

FWIW, KLRs don't like significant throttle openings below ~3000rpm,
and by significant I mean about 1/4 throttle upward.

Else it sounds maybe like a minor blockage in the carby somewhere.
If so, try flushing the floatbowl first and then see how it goes.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR (klr650) oil changes
Date: 15 Mar 1999 16:54:48 -0800 (PST)

Out of the can as discovered by a geologist friend of
mine! More floaters than any other off the shelf oil.
Not a slam on Pennzoil, but I want to be the one adding
suspended particulates to my oil to be carried to the
filter, away from the bearing surfaces.

--- Ted Palmer <[e-mail]> wrote:
> Rev. Chuck MacKarness wrote:
>
> [...]
> > 10w40 myself. Any petroleum engineers out there
> have
> > reasons not to use this stuff, like all the
> suspended
> > particulates in Pennzoil?
>
> I would have thought that keeping particulates
> suspended was good
> since they get drained out at the next change, or if
> big enough get
> held in the filter.
>
> Mister_T
>
>
>


===
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR (klr650) oil changes
Date: 15 Mar 1999 20:01:10 -0500

I remember when we stocked up on 2-stroke oil while going through the states
once.  It claimed to be ash free but when I opened up the bottle it turned
out to be chunky as gooey.  I determined that it was useless so I oiled the
nearest anthill.  Oh yeah, what's that dark stuff that's always at the
bottom of my 4L jugs of Castrol GTX?  I've decided to stay with the oil even
though it has the extra stuff on the bottom because it burns less than
Quaker State and Crappy (Canadian) Tire Oil.

Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>Out of the can as discovered by a geologist friend of
>mine! More floaters than any other off the shelf oil.
>Not a slam on Pennzoil, but I want to be the one adding
>suspended particulates to my oil to be carried to the
>filter, away from the bearing surfaces.
>
>--- Ted Palmer <[e-mail]> wrote:
>> Rev. Chuck MacKarness wrote:





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ENGINE CHOPPY
Date: 15 Mar 1999 18:10:50 -0700

|Lately, when I change down gears then accelerate again the engine has
|sounded a bit choppy.  It sounds, but does not feel, as though I am in too
|high a gear.  It smooths out at around 3,000 revs and doesn't seem to be
|affecting the overall performance of the bike.
|
|Has anyone else experienced this or have any idea what the problem is?


Greig, I had the same thought as Mr. T...is it time for a carb cleaning? We've found that we
can pull the carb w/o breaking the backbone...or, you can rotate it this way and that and get
at the floats, float needle valve and jets for cleaning...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) New bike and Questions
Date: 15 Mar 1999 18:12:30 -0700



|    Hello all, one of my roommates just picked up a 93' BMW K1100LT...for
|around $7,000 really nice bike...and $1850 under blue book value....... I
|rode it for a bit on Saturday....nice and smooth ride, has a Corbin seat and
|adjustable windshield.  Lots of Storage boxes too....I'm not used to the
|shaft drive though.


There are tons of BMW sites and lists...start with www.micapeak.com and look up mailing list
round-ups...the bike has the reputation of being and extraordinary tourer, silky smooth and
reliable...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Aluminum brush guards
Date: 15 Mar 1999 17:49:07 PST

My fellow listers:

I'm looking to upgrade my brush guards from the all-plastic Acerbis
Rally Brush Guards to an aluminum type with a plastic fairing bolted on.
Specifically I'm interested in either the MSR Lever Guards or the Maier
Deluxe Woods Pro models.  Anybody out there gone with either one of
these?  How easy or difficult were they to install?  They both have
fairing options.  How did those work out?  Thanks in advance, and thanks
to all who answered my tail light inquiry (I'm going to order a pair
tomorrow).  Later...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) unsubscribe
Date: 15 Mar 1999 20:52:06 EST





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Airbox venting
Date: 15 Mar 1999 22:20:25 EST

In a message dated 3/15/99 11:46:29 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I drilled 12 1" holes in the top of the box and filled them with
unifilters...I had to
 split the backbone to get the airbox out... >>
I read somewhere of a guy that used a 1/2 " copper union, heated it with a
propane torch and pushed its end against the air cleaner box plastic and gave
it a slight twist which burned out an exact 1"  hole for the unifilter with no
mess. Anyone try it?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated Grips Please
Date: 15 Mar 1999 22:42:36 EST

In a message dated 3/15/99 1:42:42 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Which heated hand grips do you use? I have heard there is some wrap-around
 and velcro on or something brand, anyone have any experience using these? >>
John, my favorites are made by Enduro Engineering. They are a self adhesive
heat pad that stick on your handlebar (left side) and your throttle pipe on
the other side, then you slip your stock or any other favorite grip on that.
They work great. My wife and I  just came back from a night ride and with the
grips on 'low',  your gloved hand stays warm. If you do these. let me know and
I'll email you  direct,  some tips I learned by installing three sets this
past winter on different machines. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ENGINE CHOPPY
Date: 15 Mar 1999 22:07:13 -0600

Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY) wrote:
>
> Lately, when I change down gears then accelerate again the engine has
> sounded a bit choppy.  It sounds, but does not feel, as though I am in too
> high a gear.  It smooths out at around 3,000 revs and doesn't seem to be
> affecting the overall performance of the bike.
>
> Has anyone else experienced this or have any idea what the problem is?



...my 1st guess would be bad gas...then a carb problem...

hungree



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated Grips Please
Date: 15 Mar 1999 22:48:13 EST

In a message dated 3/15/99 2:38:27 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I've never used heated grips on any of my bikes.  Are they nice?  I guess
 these little perks beat the shit out of frozen fingers...

 Arne - cold hands/warm heart >>
Best $30.00 I've ever spent!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mark <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) HELP!!!
Date: 15 Mar 1999 23:27:32 -0500

Howdy,
I no longer need help. A local Honda shop was cool enough to let me BORROW
a suitable tool overnight. My B2 is back together and running swell. I
think I'll still order the tool (and some other goodies) from Fred when I
get back from Florida. This probably won't be the last time I'll need to
remove the flywheel.
Mark
B2
A2





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Airbox venting
Date: 15 Mar 1999 21:23:00 -0700

|<< I drilled 12 1" holes in the top of the box and filled them with
|unifilters...I had to
| split the backbone to get the airbox out... >>
|I read somewhere of a guy that used a 1/2 " copper union, heated it with a
|propane torch and pushed its end against the air cleaner box plastic and gave
|it a slight twist which burned out an exact 1"  hole for the unifilter with no
|mess. Anyone try it?


This sounds like an excellent idea...I used a speedbore (11/16) and had to be very careful not
to make the holes too big...

Kurt

I've been looking at air compressors but haven't seen any that would seem small enough to fit
under the sidecover...any info on type and where you picked it up?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Aluminum brush guards
Date: 15 Mar 1999 22:59:59 EST


<<I'm looking to upgrade my brush guards from the all-plastic Acerbis
Rally Brush Guards to an aluminum type with a plastic fairing bolted on.>>

I put the Moose aluminum brush guards with the spoilers on my 98'. I love em'.
They are beefy and tighten up very well. I think that you'll have to modify
your levers no matter what kind you put on, at least most of the people I've
talked have had to either move everything over alot, or cut the balls off of
at least one of their levers. Other than that, they are great. I think most of
the aluminum ones are similiar from MSR/Maier/Moose. You want me to send you a
picture of them mounted on my bike? Let me know,

Bill S.
A12
Montgomery, IL.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: NKLR (klr650) oil changes
Date: 15 Mar 1999 22:57:33 EST

In a message dated 3/15/99 4:52:29 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< I like Castrol GT
 10w40 myself. Any petroleum engineers out there have
 reasons not to use this stuff, like all the suspended
 particulates in Pennzoil?
 Any takers? >>
Rev. Chuck, As a motorcycle dealer for 12 years, we used Castrol GTX
exclusively and never had a broken Engine in all those years and thousands of
bikes. We had an Emgo oil filter implode once damaging a Suzuki GS 750 motor.
With the new API H and J ratings, I don't know if our experience would still
be the same. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR MREs/Survival food
Date: 15 Mar 1999 21:09:24 -0800

>I live on the east side of the San Francisco Bay, right smack on top of the
>Hayward Fault.  (The San Andreas is better known, but the experts say that
>when the Hayward finally slips the result could easily be a 7+ "seismic
>event.")  I'm putting together an earthquake preparedness/Y2K/the
>Russians-are-down-but-not-out-and-what-about-those
>Chinese-communists/general paranoia kit together and could use a little
>advice.  I've already got the shotgun, shells, and a case of whiskey but my
>major question regards food. I tried my first MRE today and it seems like a
>good system - much more palatable than the K rations I ate in the service,
>low water requirement, and self heating to boot.  Cheap (under $5 apiece if
>you buy a case) and with an incredible shelf life, it seems like the hot
>ticket (as long as it doesn't make me constipated for 3 days like the K
>rations used to

Forget the Russians, they're all capitalist mobsters now.  Its the Chinese
man.

Ate MRE's and such for over eight years.  (Occupational Hazard).  (Meals,
Rejected by Ethiopians, MystRE, Meal, Recycled Excrement).  Well, believe
me, you can get constipated eating MRE's.  Don't eat too much of the peanut
butter or cheese.  They will also give you the nastiest gas.  Other that,
they are a good meal for the purpose.  However, if you can swing it, Get the
"Lurps".  (Long Life Ration Packet).  They are packaged the same as the MRE,
but they have dehydrated meals that kick ass.  (Chile con carne, spagetti
with meat sauce)  They also have twice the candy.  The only drawback with
these meals is that you need warm water to rehydrate them and eat them.  In
the field, I never had a shortage of heat tabs to heat a canteen cup of
water, but a small propane burner isn't a bad idea.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Braking Physics
Date: 15 Mar 1999 09:20:54 -0800



Ah my friends we just so happen to have an engineer on the list.
Caution:  Heavy physics follows!
(for those other physics freaks out there, yes I know am am making some
simplifications.)
The type of physics involved here is called dynamics.  Let me set up the
problem
for you.  You want to slow down the bike and you've decided to do this by
squeezing the front brake lever.  The following is what happens and why a
bigger
rotor lets you stop faster.  (and its not just because of the torque arm!)
<snip>

************************************
Thanks Tim for the in-depth discussion on braking physics.  I was wondering
if you could also explain how and why a floating disc (rotor) such as the
MAP aftermarket item for the KLR is superior to a one-piece disc in braking
power.  TIA, Darrel A12




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Acerbis The times they are a changin.
Date: 15 Mar 1999 22:25:44 -0700

I got my new Acerbis catalog today.  There was not very much new in it.  A
very dull catalog compared to last years.  They have taken out most all the
good lookin women and have stopped producing the pinup calendar.  One of the
only new items I found was a plastic skid plate made for the KLR 650.  I
have used the plastic Acerbis skid plate on an XR600 for a long time and
they do hold up to the abuse that Moab can through at it.

The plastic Acerbis for the KLR comes in white only and sells for $40.  I
like them over the aluminum skid plates because they fit tighter to the
frame and engine, are molded to fit your bike and don't look like you just
bolted a scoop shovel to the bottom of your engine.

Fred  (lookin for a new pinup calendar)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Walmart (NKLR)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 00:21:05 -0800

At the time the Walmart discussion was going around I was thinking that the
marketing strategy (small town, Mom & Pop out of business, etc..) didn't
really apply here.  Then I got to thinking (yes, I thought I smelled
something burning), that even though we have a population of around 110,000,
there was a store that went out of business shortly after they (Walmart)
arrived.  And I remember them saying that they couldn't compete with
Walmart.  Now this store that went under (Goslings) was probably doomed to
failure any how.  It was a family owned business that had been around since
Abbotsford's population was 100,000 less.  And there prices were good - as
low as Walmart's any ways, but where they used to be in the core of the
city, the city was expanding to the point of them being left on the fringes.
I think it was more of a case of Walmart being the straw that broke...

The upside of this though, was that where this other store probably employed
some 30 people, Walmart probably employees 120+ local people.

And I did get a good 850 amp "Energizer" deep cycle marine battery there 2
years ago for about $40.00 less than the competition.

Oh well, just thinking...

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)NKLR oil changes
Date: 16 Mar 1999 01:17:29 -0700



>>All Right! a bonefide authority in the house!  Aside from the issue of
>slipping clutches, is there any truth to the sales pitches of motorcycle
>oils having a more stable shear factor, doesn't get its long chain
>hydrocarbons broken down by the straight cut gears and clutch?  I
personally
>think that its a bunch of bunk, because my Rodeo tranny and transfer case
>both have straight cut gears, and use 5w-30 mineral oil for lube.  I can't
>see the and pressure being great enough, and the tolerances being small
>enough to "shear" the hydrocarbon chains in the oil at the microscopic
>level, as I've heard from countless parts guys at motorcycle dealers.
>
>Hey, I don't want to stir any hornets nests, and don't want to debate, I
>just want the straight dope.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jeff



Jeff,
    I was told " off the record" that the shearing of modern mineral oil
polymer chains is not really as much of a factor now, due to modern blend
multi-grade mineral oils having shorter chains than the oils of just a few
years ago. Also, the tolerances and pressures in most internal combustion
engines (including wet clutches) are not such that "polymer chain shearing"
is really a factor. I was told the "shearing" statements were more for
advertising than anything, although there is some basis for it in racing
applications. Synthetics do have shorter chains, and in racing and very high
stress situations, the synthetics have the properties to hold up better, but
in standard use motorcycles and regular oil changes, one is as good as
another.
   As far as oil and filter changes go, here was what the reps all agreed
on:    { Mineral oil }- for engines that are infrequently ran, sit days at a
time, and or frequent short distance driving, due to condensation and oil
temps not being at operating temps long enough (30 minutes or more) to burn
off moisture and acids, and dusty riding conditions, changes should be no
more than the engine manufacturer`s recommended time between, depending on
severity of the conditions, even shorter if conditions warrant, or 4 months,
which ever comes first. If the engine is regularly run and not prone to days
of inactivity, longer intervals can be had, but not recommended, and the
filter should be changed at the original recommended mileage. This is based
on research and field studies. They considered the filter changes as
important. They asked why you would run clean oil through a filter that is
saturated with contaminants.Contaminants excelerate wear and degrade
lubricating properties. This has been documented by every oil company and
engine manufacturer, not to mention SAE. If anyone disputes this research,
take it up with them. I don`t believe everything I hear, but there is too
much research and documentation by third parties for me to take a chance
ignoring their recommendations. I know Tom disagrees with this, and I
respect his opinion, but I`ve seen too many studies and worked on too many
engines to feel otherwise.
   The biggest fact that has been ignored, and that I wasn`t even aware of
till this last seminar, was that one of the most important reasons for
frequent oil changes is that while the base oil remains fairly stable for
many thousands of miles, the additives (viscosity modifiers, corrosion
inhibitors, detergents and bonding agents in multi-grades ) burn off and
wear out. This has been easily verified by oil analysis by mileage
increments. In other words, at 5000 miles, the oil in your engine is not the
same matrix as when it was fresh.
    { Synthetics} Same recommended change intervals, although tests have
verified that doubled change intervals have not shown any increased wear
over a standard recommended interval as long as the filter was changed at
the original recommended interval. They did recommend that upon first using
the synthetic oil, to change at the earliest recommended time, due to the
cleaning properties of synthetic oils. They also remind that the same holds
true for the synthetics as to the additives wearing out and dissipating as
quickly as in the mineral oils.
    Note: The clutch slippage problem was more of a factor in the older
synthetics ,due to considerably larger concentrations of heavy metals,
phosphorus and moly. This is no longer as much of a factor with newer
synthetic formulas, although there are still some companies that haven`t
updated their blends. Mobil, Shell, Pennzoil, Texaco and Castrol, I`ve been
told, have updated formulas.
    To quickly address the stories of cab companies and others who regularly
run 30 to 100 thousand miles between oil changes, I was told that some of
the oil companies have actually monitored these practices and there were
factors to consider. These vehicles are run every day, all day long. The
conditions are usually not considered "dirty", the vehicles don`t sit cold,
in other words, no condensation and non-particulate contaminants are
regularly burned off. The big factor is that the filters were religiously
changed.  Also, these vehicles are regularly maintained and have regular top
end preventive maintenance done. Another factor was, that most of these
engines eventually become highly consumptive of oil, and may use a quart or
two a day. You do the math. Do you really think that at 2 quarts a day, that
by the time they even get 10 miles, that the original oil is even present?
    Take this for what it`s worth to you.

 It`s too late now, but tomorrow night I`ll post what I was told about use
of automotive oils in motorcycles and some of the propaganda that has been
told by some of the manufacturers.


 Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Airbox venting
Date: 16 Mar 1999 00:59:06 -0800



[e-mail] wrote:

> In a message dated 3/15/99 11:46:29 AM Central Standard Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << I drilled 12 1" holes in the top of the box and filled them with
> unifilters...I had to
>  split the backbone to get the airbox out... >>
> I read somewhere of a guy that used a 1/2 " copper union, heated it with a
> propane torch and pushed its end against the air cleaner box plastic and gave
> it a slight twist which burned out an exact 1"  hole for the unifilter with no
> mess. Anyone try it?

I'm thinking you'd want a 1" piece of copper wouldn't ya?beez







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bill Wright <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650)Tank Bags
Date: 16 Mar 1999 07:29:13 -0500

After perusing over 150 messages in the archives about tank bags, most
about a year old, I am about to make a purchase myself.  According to
those with tank bags last year, the Eclipse Contour Magnetic bag, the
Teknic Magnetic bag, the Wolfman Magnetic bag, and the Kawi bag were
some of the most popular.  I would like to hear from those of you who
are using a tank bag that you are SATISFIED with.  No complaints please.
Apparently the Kawi bag fell from grace after extended use by some. Even
if you are using one of the above mentioned bags and like it, I would
appreciate hearing from you.  Also I am using the Aerostich tank
panniers and would require a bag that will not interfere with the
panniers.  I could not find anyone in the old messages that said they
were using a Chase Harper bag.  Is there anything wrong with them. ?

Bill Wright
Hotlanta, GA.
98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 22,600 miles




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Braking Physics
Date: 16 Mar 1999 09:47:23 EST

In a message dated 3/15/99 11:21:02 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Thanks Tim for the in-depth discussion on braking physics.  I was wondering
 if you could also explain how and why a floating disc (rotor) such as the
 MAP aftermarket item for the KLR is superior to a one-piece disc in braking
 power.  TIA, Darrel A12 >>
I'm not Tim, but I have the same braking system on two bikes, however one is
full floating an the other is fixed. The floater stops significantly better
with less effort because the rotor can slide over a little as the pad behind
the piston is pressed against the rotor, aslso most floaters have pistons on
both side of the rotor. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Airbox venting
Date: 16 Mar 1999 09:52:54 EST

A one inch coupling is more than one inch. The half inch coupling is correct.
remember, with copper pipe, the dimension is inside diameter so the pipe
itself is probably 3/4" and the coupling has to go over that so it is the 1"
that is needed.Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Questions, Questions, Questions - NKLR
Date: 16 Mar 1999 07:02:46 -0800

,
>With regards to your piece of wood example, the total weight applied by the
>board is the same in both scenarios (it's own weight).  On edge, the
contact
>area is less, but the pressure is higher.  On its face, the contact area is
>greater, but the pressure is lower.  In both cases, the total normal force
is
>the same (pressure x area), therefore the frictional force is the same.  In
>the comparison of the brake rotor, I was assuming that the brake fluid
>pressure was constant in both comparisons, resulting in a higher normal
force
>for the larger pad vs. the smaller pad.  This would cause the frictional
force
>to be greater for the larger pad than the smaller one.
>Greg, A2

If the fluid pressure is the same, then the force applied to the brake
calipers is the same, therefore the force applied to the brake pads is the
same, and since the area is larger, the pressure between the pads and the
rotor surface is smaller, not larger.  Draw the free body diagram and you'll
see its true.   Pressure isn't part of the equation for determining the
non-conservative fritional force, only the applied force which results in
the normal force, and the coefficient of kinetic friction.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  Windsor, Ontario
Date: 16 Mar 1999 07:11:16 -0800


>
>
>-Tom
>found out what open-pit mining looks like in Sudbury, and it aint all that
>pretty.
>'96 KLR 650


Ever seen the copper mine south of Salt Lake City?  Largest hole in the
world, and that ain't no shit.  Its the environmentalists vision of pure
hell.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Insurance (WA)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 07:24:13 -0800


>Our bikes have nowhere near the destructive power of an SUV thus should not
>require as much insurance.
>
What I meant to say is that its the motorcycle equivalent of an SUV.

>If we don't ALL (cagers included) start fighting them instead of
>fingerpointing amongst ourselves we're just gonna pay for more skyscrapers.
>
>
To be perfectly honest, I wouldn't mind buying motorcycle insurance, if they
offered good medical coverage, like they do for car insurance.  But when I
went and bought "full coverage" insurance for my bike, the max medical
coverage that they would give me for rider or passenger was only $5000, even
for liability insurance for my passenger, which I doubt would cover a
hospital stay.  If they want to mandate insurance, then they need to have
this available.  I have a relative that is very high up in one of the local
major insurance companies, and she said that they don't make any money
underwriting car policies....yeah right!

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric & Jill Dietiker <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) To: "'[e-mail]'"
Date: 16 Mar 1999 07:25:32 -0800

I've heard the best way to straighten clutch levers is to remove them from
the bike and pound them back into shape. I have used this technique on a
number of special occasions, with no ill consequences.

Eric.
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


Like many others of our fraternity/sorority, I've taken delivery of one of
Fred's " bend not brake " shift levers. Is there something analogous in the
way of clutch levers? Have any of you had any luck heating & bending back
your clutch lever? Eating dainty food is O.K. with my pinky pointing up, but
I'd rather pull in my clutch with all fingers. Bogdan





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jason Ehler <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 16 Mar 1999 10:25:33 -0500

anyone know the number of the Export Sales Department for Acerbis.
Thanks
Jason KLR 650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Unbending levers
Date: 16 Mar 1999 08:35:27 -0700


-----Original Message-----
"'[e-mail]'"<[e-mail]>


>I've heard the best way to straighten clutch levers is to remove them from
>the bike and pound them back into shape. I have used this technique on a
>number of special occasions, with no ill consequences.
>
>Eric.


If you take a block of wood and a plastic mallet and use small blows, you
can straighten out most OEM levers once or maybe twice.  Take your lever off
the bike and lay it on the block of wood with the bent part up.  Be careful
with aftermarket levers as they will break easier than the OEMs.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric & Jill Dietiker <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gripsters -- tubeless?
Date: 16 Mar 1999 07:37:14 -0800

>Those gripster H tires look nice, but I think theyre radial tires. Would
>this affect use on the KLR at all? They will likely be more difficult to
>mount, as most radials I've seen have pretty thick sidewalls. anyone here
>use the gripster H?

Yes. They work wonderfully for street riding, and I've gotten around 20K
miles from the rear tire so far (but it is ready for replacement).

Eric.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: (klr650) Clutch levers
Date: 16 Mar 1999 10:32:47 -0500

I staightened one once by heating it to a nice orange glow and quickly
sandwiching it in a vice. I also once tried straightening one "cold" with
two pairs of pliers and the lever snapped in two.
Mark
B2
A2

At 7:25 AM 3/16/99, Eric & Jill Dietiker wrote:
>I've heard the best way to straighten clutch levers is to remove them from
>the bike and pound them back into shape. I have used this technique on a
>number of special occasions, with no ill consequences.
>
SNIP> Have any of you had any luck heating & bending back
>your clutch lever? Eating dainty food is O.K. with my pinky pointing up, but
>I'd rather pull in my clutch with all fingers. Bogdan





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Aluminum brush guards
Date: 16 Mar 1999 07:44:12 -0800

>I put the Moose aluminum brush guards with the spoilers on my 98'. I love
em'.
>They are beefy and tighten up very well. I think that you'll have to modify
>your levers no matter what kind you put on, at least most of the people
I've
>talked have had to either move everything over alot, or cut the balls off
of
>at least one of their levers. Other than that, they are great. I think most
of
>the aluminum ones are similiar from MSR/Maier/Moose. You want me to send
you a
>picture of them mounted on my bike? Let me know,
>
I have Maier brush guards on my A3, and the levers are intact, with no mods
done.  But at idle sitting on the side stand, the clutch lever sometimes
vibrates and chatters against the aluminum guard.  No big deal.  I bought
the bike this way, so I don't know what model or any other pertenant.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Braking Physics
Date: 16 Mar 1999 07:59:31 -0800


>Thanks Tim for the in-depth discussion on braking physics.  I was wondering
>if you could also explain how and why a floating disc (rotor) such as the
>MAP aftermarket item for the KLR is superior to a one-piece disc in braking
>power.  TIA, Darrel A12
>
>
I believe its because the disk surface maintains a better alignment with the
brake pads during application.  When the force applied is exactly orthogonal
to the surface, then the max normal force is generated, and therefore a
greater frictional force results.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)Tank Bags
Date: 16 Mar 1999 08:59:02 -0700

Bill, I've absolutely no complaints about the Kawi Tank Bag...I use it with the
panniers and also the Dual Star Co-Pilot and think I've got the best of all worlds...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Walmart (NKLR)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 08:06:45 -0800



>At the time the Walmart discussion was going around I was thinking that the
>marketing strategy (small town, Mom & Pop out of business, etc..) didn't
>really apply here.  Then I got to thinking (yes, I thought I smelled
>something burning), that even though we have a population of around
110,000,
>there was a store that went out of business shortly after they (Walmart)
>arrived.  And I remember them saying that they couldn't compete with
>Walmart.  Now this store that went under (Goslings) was probably doomed to
>failure any how.  It was a family owned business that had been around since
>Abbotsford's population was 100,000 less.  And there prices were good - as
>low as Walmart's any ways, but where they used to be in the core of the
>city, the city was expanding to the point of them being left on the
fringes.
>I think it was more of a case of Walmart being the straw that broke...
>
>The upside of this though, was that where this other store probably
employed
>some 30 people, Walmart probably employees 120+ local people.
>
From what I understand, they will lose money on selling items just to beat
someone else's price, because they win in the end by putting the other guy
out of business, and the corporation still makes money elsewhere.  I guess
more people employed is a good thing though, if their paychecks stay in the
local economy.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) NKLR unsubscribe
Date: 16 Mar 1999 10:50:10 EST

unsubscribe please



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: waynef <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KimpexGrip Heaters
Date: 16 Mar 1999 10:09:32 -0600

I drilled an appropriately sized hole in the black plastic that shrouds
the headlight (inside the fairing.)  I routed the wiring behind this
plastic piece as well.

[e-mail] wrote:

> Greetings;
>
>   For those of you who have installed the grip heaters, I have this
> question:
> where did you install the ON/OFF switch?  Thanks in advance for your
> time and
> help.
>
> John Paul Gray
> Dana Point CA
>
> 94 ST1100
> 95 KLR650






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Insurance (WA)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 09:33:18 -0800

I don't mind paying insurance per se.

I have three motorcycles/cars, and can only ride/drive one at a time, why
does my government require that I insure all three bikes or cars?  If my
government is going to mandate insurance coverage, I expect them to also
mandate consumer protections to prevent rampant abuse, such as the above.

>... and she said that they don't make any money
>underwriting car policies....yeah right!

I'll bet she means that the profit margins are "not as lucrative" as other
underwritings.....

Tom

+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Chase Harper Tank Bags
Date: 16 Mar 1999 11:37:53 EST

In a message dated 3/16/99 4:30:31 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

 <<  I could not find anyone in the old messages that said they
  were using a Chase Harper bag.  Is there anything wrong with them. ?
   >>

 Hi Bill From Bill S.,

 I've been using the Chase Harper (1150) Tank bag for about a year now, and
have no complaints whatsoever. I loaded it up for an over 3000 miles round
trip last summer with no surprises. The thing piles up nice and high with
several compartments, and a removable foam insert, that you can cut pockets
into for tools etc. if you want. I carry my tool puch, flashlights, knives,
tube rpair kits, etc. in the foam insert. Works out well Does need some type
of rain cover though (Wal-Mart again). Fits the KLR fine for my purposes, but
to fill the tank, you do have to release the clips, lift the bag up, and then
re-attach it after filling. I've had to do this with any non-magnetic tank bag
I've owned in some way or another, so no big deal to me. After over a year
old, the tank bag still is nearly like new, even with daily use, and the
removable map holder has not faded or cracked. I'm satisfied....

 Bill Swindle
 A12 "Moose"
 montgomery, IL.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Chase Harper Tank Bags
Date: 16 Mar 1999 10:44:53 -0700

I have been pretty happy with the Kawasaki bag.  Has held up well.
Touratech now offers an "Enduro" Tank bag that looks keen.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  Windsor, Ontario
Date: 16 Mar 1999 12:35:25 +0000

At 07:11 AM 3/16/99 -0800, Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>-Tom
>>found out what open-pit mining looks like in Sudbury, and it aint all that
>>pretty.
>>'96 KLR 650
>
>
>Ever seen the copper mine south of Salt Lake City?  Largest hole in the
>world, and that ain't no shit.  Its the environmentalists vision of pure
>hell.


    Nope. I have yet to go out west, to tell the truth. In fact, I never saw a
mine in Sudbury, either. They were surrounded my mountains of tailings that
were hundreds of feet tall.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Clutch levers
Date: 16 Mar 1999 10:30:41 -0800

-----Original Message-----


>I staightened one once by heating it to a nice orange glow and quickly
>sandwiching it in a vice. I also once tried straightening one "cold" with
>two pairs of pliers and the lever snapped in two.
>Mark
>B2
>A2


Heating it to a nice warm glow is the best way to go.  Some metals will
"let" you bring them back cold, but the stress on them is considerable.  By
heating the lever up it becomes pliable (of course you all know this), but
then after you've got it to where you want it, heat it again and let it air
cool.  In this way all the stress is released and the lever will "want" to
remain in the shape you've put it in.  Whatever you do, don't quench it to
cool it - this will only make the lever brittle and weak.

Arne - the resident Blacksmith




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Clutch levers
Date: 16 Mar 1999 13:38:57 -0500

I can usually get by with boiling hot rags to heat the metal up first. Then
I use the vise method. Heating it to the point where it glows can discolor
the metal and will certainly burn off any protective covering.

>I staightened one once by heating it to a nice orange glow and quickly
>sandwiching it in a vice. I also once tried straightening one "cold" with
>two pairs of pliers and the lever snapped in two.
>Mark
>B2
>A2





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650)Tank Bags
Date: 16 Mar 1999 12:04:31 -0700

Bill I've been using the largest one for over 6 years. I think it's called a
Eurosport. It's been to Central America, Mexico, Canada (now there's an
exotic place) etc. etc. It's served me for 70k? miles. It would be a good
choice for a klr because the rear straps attach to the sides of the tank. It
works fine with Aerostich tank panniers. If you get one, I would recommend
sewing on the plastic map case which is only held on with velcro. You have
to leave the bottom side open to get the maps in & out. There you should sew
on a buckle. Why? I of course learned this the hard way in 2 windy places,
the Isthmus of Tehuantepec & Nebraska (Another romantic/exotic location).
The map case flew off both times and  some/all of my maps were "gone with
the wind" though I recovered the case. Before I added the buckle the maps
would slide out and go adios. These shortcomings should not zap this bag
from your consideration; they can be easily & cheaply addressed and most
tankbags have hidden faults. (Kind of like spouses.) My BMW bag was a worst
pain in the ass.   Bogdan
>   I could not find anyone in the old messages that said they
> were using a Chase Harper bag.  Is there anything wrong with them. ?
>
> Bill Wright
> Hotlanta, GA.
> 98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 22,600 miles
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Clutch levers
Date: 16 Mar 1999 11:24:08 -0800

I find this pretty hard to believe.  The levers are aluminum not steel.
Aluminum melts quite a bit before it glows.  Steel is the opposite.
Chris


>
>
> >I staightened one once by heating it to a nice orange glow and quickly
> >sandwiching it in a vice. I also once tried straightening one "cold" with
> >two pairs of pliers and the lever snapped in two.
> >Mark
> >B2
> >A2






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Acerbis disc guard
Date: 16 Mar 1999 12:30:17 -0700

According to my Canadian spy syndicate, Acerbis is going to rerelease the
disc guard for the KLR in about six weeks.  There will be a limited number
produced and the details are few, but it sounds like from high sources that
it is a done deal.  I will be able to offer a better than retail price if I
get enough orders.  The latest I have heard is that the guard will fit the
87-93 KLR.  Anyone know if these will fit later models?

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                    Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW*
                           435-259-7356
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)NKLR oil changes
Date: 16 Mar 1999 14:43:04 -0500

Here's one amazing thing I learned a few months ago.  The new Volvo Highway
Tractors get their oil changed every 80000km.  They have 2 oil filters on
the side of the engine, both about the size of a 2L pop bottle.  They also
have an oil filter called a "Kleen-Flo" that is changed every 20000km.  This
filter resembles something like a big toilet paper roll (makes a real mess
trying to remove it).  Along with that, the engine holds another 30L of oil
I believe.  Have you been told why they can use the 15w40 for as long as
they do?  I think it's probably due to the fact that they burn off 4L per
trip and because the engine holds a lot more oil than a car can compared to
Combustion chamber volume.
Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----



>    To quickly address the stories of cab companies and others who
regularly
>run 30 to 100 thousand miles between oil changes, I was told that some of
>the oil companies have actually monitored these practices and there were
>factors to consider. These vehicles are run every day, all day long. The
>conditions are usually not considered "dirty", the vehicles don`t sit cold,
>in other words, no condensation and non-particulate contaminants are
>regularly burned off. The big factor is that the filters were religiously
>changed.  Also, these vehicles are regularly maintained and have regular
top
>end preventive maintenance done. Another factor was, that most of these
>engines eventually become highly consumptive of oil, and may use a quart or
>two a day. You do the math. Do you really think that at 2 quarts a day,
that
>by the time they even get 10 miles, that the original oil is even present?
>    Take this for what it`s worth to you.
>
> Skip
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  Windsor, Ontario
Date: 16 Mar 1999 14:48:19 -0500

I don't think he have open pit mining in Sudbury...unless you're talking
about the super mall they are building here.  Yippee, another Walmart.  INCO
does have lots of mountains though, the slag is just piled as high as their
tractors and conveyors can get it.  They want to use the stuff to make
pavement, I don't know why though, it works really good for making gravel
roads.  Chipped slag is great for drainage.  Stephen Rivett


-----Original Message-----


>
>>
>>
>>-Tom
>>found out what open-pit mining looks like in Sudbury, and it aint all that
>>pretty.
>>'96 KLR 650





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gripsters -- tubeless?
Date: 16 Mar 1999 14:52:35 -0500

When I get a KLR650 or Adventure, whichever is still available in 4 years, I
want to put a couple rim lockers on the wheel like on my CR250.  Are they
legal for highway use?  They must wear out wheel bearings like there's no
tomorrow because of the eneven weight distrobution and I can't see using
weights to compensate for this because they would be huge.
Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----


>>Those gripster H tires look nice, but I think theyre radial tires. Would
>>this affect use on the KLR at all? They will likely be more difficult to
>>mount, as most radials I've seen have pretty thick sidewalls. anyone here
>>use the gripster H?
>
>Yes. They work wonderfully for street riding, and I've gotten around 20K
>miles from the rear tire so far (but it is ready for replacement).
>
>Eric.
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sconzo <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)Tank Bags (Magnetic)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 14:59:00 -0500


Listers,

I've been following the tank bag dialogue. I myself had the Kawa tank bag for
the KLR 650. I liked it. My dog liked it better. Now I'm in the market for
another one. Here's the big question: Does anyone have a _magnetic_ tank bag
that they love? Or has anyone got one that they would recommend? Thanks. I feel
nekked without my tank bag.

Peace and safe riding,
Scott in Orlando-- A12




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Chase Harper Tank Bags
Date: 16 Mar 1999 15:13:55 -0500

I've been using the same Chase Harper bag since 1984!!!!! (It's been on 6
different bikes and been from Maine To Florida)
 They hold up well and it's STILL WATERPROOF!

Robert
-----Original Message-----


>In a message dated 3/16/99 4:30:31 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
> <<  I could not find anyone in the old messages that said they
>  were using a Chase Harper bag.  Is there anything wrong with them. ?
>   >>
>
> Hi Bill From Bill S.,
>
> I've been using the Chase Harper (1150) Tank bag for about a year now, and
>have no complaints whatsoever. I loaded it up for an over 3000 miles round
>trip last summer with no surprises. The thing piles up nice and high with
>several compartments, and a removable foam insert, that you can cut pockets
>into for tools etc. if you want. I carry my tool puch, flashlights, knives,
>tube rpair kits, etc. in the foam insert. Works out well Does need some
type
>of rain cover though (Wal-Mart again). Fits the KLR fine for my purposes,
but
>to fill the tank, you do have to release the clips, lift the bag up, and
then
>re-attach it after filling. I've had to do this with any non-magnetic tank
bag
>I've owned in some way or another, so no big deal to me. After over a year
>old, the tank bag still is nearly like new, even with daily use, and the
>removable map holder has not faded or cracked. I'm satisfied....
>
> Bill Swindle
> A12 "Moose"
> montgomery, IL.
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Acerbis disc guard
Date: 16 Mar 1999 13:23:38 -0700

>>The latest I have heard is that the guard will fit the
87-93 KLR.  Anyone know if these will fit later models?<<

They will work on anything from 87-99, but will not work on a Tengai.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fork Brace???
Date: 16 Mar 1999 13:37:21 -0700

If Steve would call me I can tell him what not to do!!!!!
-----Original Message-----


>
>
>[e-mail] wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 3/12/99 7:01:34 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>> [e-mail] writes:
>>
>> << Tim Bernard has something in the R&D phase. Stay tuned. >>
>>
>> So does Steve at Quality Engine R&D.  Who will get done first?
>
>And will they be able to produce them in quantity before Moab?;-)
>b
>
>
>>
>>
>> Gino
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Walmart (NKLR)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 15:51:58 EST

In a message dated 3/16/99 10:03:11 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< From what I understand, they will lose money on selling items just to beat
 someone else's price, because they win in the end by putting the other guy
 out of business, and the corporation still makes money elsewhere.  I guess
 more people employed is a good thing though, if their paychecks stay in the
 local economy. >>
There is a downside to a free enterprise system, businesses go out all the
times for various reasons,but socialism is not an answer either. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Paul Christenson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Braking Physics (NKLR)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 13:47:02 PST

I've been reading the posts on braking recently, trying to merge them
with my college physics of several years ago.

The one thing that didn't sit right with me was the comment someone made
that two disc rotors (and pads, etc.) gives better braking than a single
rotor.

That statement seems intuitively obvious, but my physics teacher claimed
that the obvious is wrong more often that not.  So, I did a mental
exercise.

We know that the braking is simply a controlled increase in friction, so
that force is (normal force [N] * coeff. of friction[CofF]).  (Normal
force is the force that's 90 degrees to the plane of the contact patch.)

However, what does a second brake system do for us?  It would seem to
double the braking force by doubling the contact area.  However, notice
that the contact area isn't a factor in the friction equation; it's a
term that drops out in the proof.

No; the only way to increase the braking force is to increase either the
CofF or N (or both).  CofF can be changed by changing the rotor or brake
pads.  Since the KLR doesn't have an assisted braking system, all the N
comes from the rider's fingers, and unless the lever is hitting the
grip, there's not a lot that can be done.

So what do dual rotors do, other than make money for the parts stores?

Brakes, by design, convert kinetic energy (speed) into thermal energy
(heat).  When the brakes get hot, the CofF drops.  (We call this 'brake
fade'.)  Each of the two rotors (in theory) does half the total braking,
and generate half as much heat as a single rotor brake.

There are tradeoffs, however.  (In other words, there ain't no such
thing as a free lunch.)

Remember, the KLR's brake hydraulics are not boosted.  Given the
constraints of the limited brake lever travel and hand strength, the
rider can move only so much brake fluid for a given pressure (lb/in^2,
or PSI).  Remember that when we squeeze the lever, we're putting force
on a piston, pressing on the brake fluid.  We can increase the volume of
fluid moved in the limited piston travel by increasing the area of the
piston/fluid contact area, but this directly reduces our available PSI.
And, since dual rotors need twice the volume of brake fluid to actuate
them, the pressure (and therefore, normal force) is halved.

Granted, this is a simplification (a "hand waving argument", as one
professor put it).  If anyone finds a significant fault in logic, please
let me know...
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Paul Christenson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) Is there a Honda GL500 Silver Wing list?
Date: 16 Mar 1999 14:33:07 PST

Fate has bestowed upon me the opportunity to pick up a near mint GL500
Silver Wing for well under book value.  Given the help this list has
given me regarding my KLR, I was wondering if there was a similar list
for the GL500.

Thanks.


Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Is there a Honda GL500 Silver Wing list?
Date: 16 Mar 1999 15:45:02 -0700


>Fate has bestowed upon me the opportunity to pick up a near mint GL500
>Silver Wing for well under book value.  Given the help this list has
>given me regarding my KLR, I was wondering if there was a similar list
>for the GL500.
>
>Thanks.

No, no list but this website has a decent message board and nice pictures..I loved my
CX-500 except it started badly in cool weather...

http://cx500.gobinet.se/>


Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR (klr650) oil changes
Date: 16 Mar 1999 18:03:21 +0000

I like Castrol GT 10w40 myself. Any petroleum engineers out there have
> reasons not to use this stuff, like all the suspended
> particulates in Pennzoil?
> Any takers?
>
> ===
> Rev. Chuck
> '99 KLR651
> :^)>+
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com



I use Castrol Motorcycle Oil 20w-50 in summer and Castrol 10w-40 oil in
winter and haven't had any oil related problems.  Castrol gets a pretty
good rating amongst the regular oils.  Of course the bulk of my riding
is done from April through October so the 10w-40 is still very clean
when I change it.  I change the 20w-50 twice in the warm season.

I thought about using Spectro because of the shear factor etc...but have
continued with Castrol.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Lowering links...
Date: 16 Mar 1999 16:11:00 -0700

Put on the Quality R & D lowering links yesterday morning...took 75 minutes with most
of the time trying to figure out how to offweight the bike. I'm having trouble
deciding whether to keep them or not...For sure they lower the bike...I can darn near
be flat-footed at stop lights. Took the bike in the dirt last night and didn't bottom
on any of the stuff I would normally ride. My son got on the back this morning for the
daily jaunt to school and we bottomed right away coming out of the driveway. I realize
now that I may have to increase the shock preload from its present 3 to 5 now that
I've lost some travel.

What's my problem? I'm ashamed to admit it...aesthetics...the bike had a tall ready
for anything look before..now it is a short squatty thing kind of like the guy who
rides it. Plus, I'm going to have to get the sidestand and centerstand redone. It's
just that the bike was perfect on the recent trip to Death Valley and heck I haven't
done any Artie Johnson's for a long time...I'm stuck...It does handle good with the
links...

Kurt (lookin short and squat but thinking long and lean)
Salt Lake City




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Lowering links...
Date: 16 Mar 1999 16:22:14 -0700

>>WHat's my problem? I'm ashamed to admit it...aesthetics...the bike had a
tall ready
for anything look before..now it is a short squatty thing kind of like the
guy who
rides it.<<

Ah Kurt.  We still like you anyway.  I had the links on my KLR for almost a
year.  They make the bike handle great.  If I were buying a KLR for street
use only, I'd put the links on, get a UFO fender from Fred, put some of the
new Dunlops on there and let it run. The bike does get squishy from the new
angle of the shock with the links.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR Tank Bags
Date: 16 Mar 1999 18:54:12 +0000

Bill,

I've been using a Kawasaki "Ninja" tank bag left over from use on my '87
750R and it still holds together.  It has the clear map pocket with the
velcro closure and several compartments.  The only thing that is
starting to show it's age is the elastic material in the straps.  I can
replace that though.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] Give it a brake
Date: 16 Mar 1999 19:37:10 -0500

While test riding several hogs/pigs in motorcycle clothing (Suzuki
Intruder 1500, Polaris Victory, etc...) I noticed the fatter front tire
bikes with a single up-front rotor had a tendency to pull the handlebars
to the side of the rotor when the front brake was applied. It seemed
more exagerated on the wider front tire bikes than the other bikes I
rode with more narrow front ends. Anybody else ever notice this
phenomenon? The recent threads have SUFFICIENTLY explained brake theory
(*please don't rehash them, pleeease*) but I found this "seat of the
pants" discovery rather strange.

Jake



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fw: Rear shock KLR
Date: 16 Mar 1999 17:33:00 -0800

-----Original Message-----


>Hi Arne
>The shock you would want to pick up would be our 420-1030. You can order
>these from White Bros. at [phone]. They can take your order.
>Thanks
>Josh
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Arne Larsen [mailto:[e-mail]]
>Sent: Friday, March 12, 1999 6:46 PM
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: Rear shock KLR
>
>
>I have heard that there are different springs available for the rear shock
>for the KLR650 (mine's a '99).  If this is so, what would I ask for?  Would
>I need to specify a particular model/part# when ordering from a
distributor?
>I'm a big guy and weigh 270 lbs.  I ride both on the street and off-road.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Arne Larsen
>[e-mail]
>

I found this interesting???  I posed the question of the correct rear shock
for my size to "Progressive".  They responded back with the part number and
that I could order it from "White Bros."

I thought Progressive and White Bros. were two separate and competing
companies?

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm,

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "W. J. Majors CLU" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Illinois
Date: 16 Mar 1999 17:38:57 -0800

Anyone on the list live in Champaign-Urbana, Ill?? My wife's grandfather
died and we will make a quick visit starting tonite.
I'll buy coffee, Steak & Shake, or whatever local joint you like, and we can
bench race and tell lies.
Have a Wing, ST1100, KLR650, and Carol has a Road King.
We can talk about any or all.

Thanks
Bill




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKLR] Give it a brake
Date: 17 Mar 1999 12:44:52 +1000

J.Taylor wrote:

[single-disc steer]
> (*please don't rehash them, pleeease*) but I found this "seat of the
> pants" discovery rather strange.

Not all that unusual on single disc front ends that are rather less
than race spec in stiffness.
I've been riding my 600 too long to notice it these days, even after
back to back rides on my double-front-disc Honda RC17.

The braking fork flexes a bit under braking loads and twists the
front end a bit to affect the steering.
A good fork brace may reduce the effect a bit, but ultimately a
double-disc front will distribute the forces more evenly on the
forks and steering (not to mention twin discs will likely have
more heat sink mass, oops I just did).

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw: Rear shock KLR
Date: 16 Mar 1999 18:53:28 -0700



>I thought Progressive and White Bros. were two separate and competing
>companies?
>
>Hmmmmmmmmmmmm,
>
>Arne
>
>
>

Progressive sells wholesale to distributers and White Bros is the retail
seller.  White Bros. also sells to dealers like me.  I can order you the
shock that you want as I talk with them all the time.  The price would be
the same and you would be helping out the little guy and not just the giant
company.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                    Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW*
                           435-259-7356
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKLR] Give it a brake
Date: 16 Mar 1999 20:54:10 +0000

It seemed more exagerated on the wider front tire bikes than the other
bikes I
> rode with more narrow front ends. Anybody else ever notice this
> phenomenon? The recent threads have SUFFICIENTLY explained brake theory
> (*please don't rehash them, pleeease*) but I found this "seat of the
> pants" discovery rather strange.
>
> Jake



I have never experienced what you're talking about on any of the bikes I
rode that had single front disc brakes (regardless as to whether the
caliper was mounted forward on the fork following the rotation or behind
the fork leading the rotation).

Although I have experienced flywheel effect from the engine torque on
older bikes that kind of makes the bike favor one side and kind of
induces you to counter it.  It was noticed more when accelerating or
decelerating because of the physics involved.

Sorry this doesn't answer your question but I'd be interested to know
what the story is.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: don roger <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Blowing headlight fuses
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:23:37 -0500


I think one thing that contributes to blown headlight fuses is the =
design of the dimmer switch. As you switch from "low" to "high" there is =
a point in the dimmer switch lever travel where BOTH the headlight =
filaments are getting current. With one of my other bikes I used to use =
this "middle" position to get more light on the road.=20

It may be that those who quickly flip from high to low avoid overloading =
the circuit; and those who move the lever more slowly run the risk of =
overloading the fuse. Even if the fuse doesn't blow right away, it may =
be getting stressed and therefore more prone to failure.  I blew a fuse =
on the first day I rode my new-used KLR, and have never blown one since. =
But I seldom ride at night, so have no need to make frequent beam =
changes.

That's my 2 cents (CDN) worth; but please, let's not get a big =
"electrical theory for the under-twelves"  going here.

Don Roger '93 KLR650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: don roger <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Leaky fork seal -er - "band-aid"
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:26:03 -0500


This might help someone keep rolling safely with a leaking fork seal.

Last fall I had the misfortune to have the fork seal on the brake-disk =
side start to leak. I was concerned that it might leak oil onto the =
brake pads and make the front brake go away (besides messing up the side =
of the bike and my pants leg). BUT I was reluctant to take the time out =
of what was left of my riding season to replace the seal.  So this is =
what I did:

I pulled up the bottom of the fork gaiter and wrapped a "wingless" =
maxi-strength "feminine hygiene product" around the fork tube, then =
duct-taped it to the slider (bottom part of the fork). Then I pulled the =
bottom of the gaiter back down into position. This effectively kept the =
fork oil from leaking out and dripping onto the brake disk. Mind you it =
was still leaking out of the fork, it just wasn't contaminating the =
brake pads etc. Once the season was over for me , say another 1k miles, =
I did replace the fork seals. When I took the "maxi" off, it was sure =
soaked with oil, but it did the job. Funny, it wasn't that blue color =
you see in the ads!

Don Roger




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Tank Bags (Magnetic)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 19:34:35 -0700


>Listers,
>
>I've been following the tank bag dialogue. I myself had the Kawa tank bag
for
>the KLR 650. I liked it. My dog liked it better. Now I'm in the market for
>another one. Here's the big question: Does anyone have a _magnetic_ tank
bag
>that they love? Or has anyone got one that they would recommend? Thanks. I
feel
>nekked without my tank bag.
>
>Peace and safe riding,
>Scott in Orlando-- A12
>
>

Scott,
   I have an Eclipse Contour magnetic bag that I have run through the
wringer and have been happy with it so far. It hasn`t had any tendencies to
come off yet, on road or off. So far I`m impressed and I enjoy just grabbing
the sides, lifting up, and walking away.

Skip ( magnet convert)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Leaky fork seal -er - "band-aid"
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:35:49 EST

Don writes:
  [trailside repair?]
>I pulled up the bottom of the fork gaiter and wrapped a "wingless" maxi-
strength
>"feminine hygiene product" around the fork tube, then duct-taped it to the
slider


You get credit for thinking ahead. I would never have thought to put one of
those in my repair kit.

John O. (definitely needing to get more in touch with my feminine side)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR (klr650) oil changes
Date: 16 Mar 1999 20:11:56 -0700




>I like Castrol GT 10w40 myself. Any petroleum engineers out there have
>> reasons not to use this stuff, like all the suspended
>> particulates in Pennzoil?
>> Any takers?
>>
>> ===
>> Rev. Chuck
>> '99 KLR651
>> :^)>+
>>

 Rev,
    Castrol was the one mineral oil that has done very well in side by side
analysis with synthetics. I`ve seen three analysis tests where Castrol was
almost equal in viscosity stability, thermal breakdown, heat index and pour
point, to the lowest performing synthetic.
    Keep in mind that the automotive Castrol is not the same as it was since
the new SAE/API index standards change to SH/SJ.

 Skip


 Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR (klr650) oil changes
Date: 16 Mar 1999 22:38:57 -0500

Does this change to SH/SJ make the Castrol less good or more better?

Jake, bad grammer and awl

Skip Faulkner wrote:
> Keep in mind that the automotive Castrol is not the same as it was since the new SAE/API index standards change to SH/SJ.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Is there a Honda GL500 Silver Wing list?
Date: 16 Mar 1999 22:30:06 EST

In a message dated 3/16/99 4:46:22 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< >Fate has bestowed upon me the opportunity to pick up a near mint GL500
 >Silver Wing for well under book value.  Given the help this list has
 >given me regarding my KLR, I was wondering if there was a similar list
 >for the GL500.
 >
 >Thanks.

 No, no list but this website has a decent message board and nice pictures..I
loved my
 CX-500 except it started badly in cool weather...
  >>
There is a wonderful article about a couple that rode ther CX 500 through 89
countries and over 250,000 kilometers. Wow! Its in April 99 MOTORCYCLIST
magazine



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: NKLR (klr650) oil changes]
Date: 16 Mar 1999 22:43:08 -0500

Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
Reply-To: [e-mail]
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01C-KIT  (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
References: <001001be7023$ed1e3a20$2a2231cf@default> <[e-mail]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I mean in the sense of use in bikes. I use the Castrol in my 115,000
mile Mitsu engine without complaint.

J.Taylor wrote:
> Does this change to SH/SJ make the Castrol less good or more better?

> Skip Faulkner wrote:
> > Keep in mind that the automotive Castrol is not the same as it was since the new SAE/API index standards change to SH/SJ.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Braking Physics (NKLR)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 22:23:22 EST

In a message dated 3/16/99 3:49:52 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< If anyone finds a significant fault in logic, please
 let me know... >>
I can't say there is fault in your formulas,but my Ducati Monster and Suzuki
1200 Bandit will stop very fast, whereas the single rotor bikes take a bit of
planning to stop.Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Erik Schelzig <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Is there a Honda GL500 Silver Wing list?
Date: 16 Mar 1999 22:48:51 -0500 (EST)

> In a message dated 3/16/99 4:46:22 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
> writes:
>
> << >Fate has bestowed upon me the opportunity to pick up a near mint GL500
>  >Silver Wing for well under book value.  Given the help this list has
>  >given me regarding my KLR, I was wondering if there was a similar list
>  >for the GL500.
>  >
>  >Thanks.
>
>  No, no list but this website has a decent message board and nice pictures..I
> loved my
>  CX-500 except it started badly in cool weather...
>   >>
> There is a wonderful article about a couple that rode ther CX 500 through 89
> countries and over 250,000 kilometers. Wow! Its in April 99 MOTORCYCLIST
> magazine
>
>

Also there is this site, which has more pics than info, and the bike on
the main page is almost a spitting image of what mine might have looked
like before I got my hands on it:

http://www.pangea.ca/~bsmith/index.htm

allbests,

erik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Blowing headlight fuses
Date: 16 Mar 1999 22:41:58 EST

In a message dated 3/16/99 8:22:56 PM Central Standard Time, ddroger@travel-
net.com writes:

<< With one of my other bikes I used to use this "middle" position to get more
light on the road.  >>
Must have been a Guzzi, Benelli, or Ducati? Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Auto Oils in the Bike
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:25:39 -0700

Dean asked what I got from the oil reps on the new oil ratings change. The
industry line for changing to SH/SJ was to mainly  reduce the levels of
phosphorus, moly and other heavy metals present in the old rating standards.
These additives are said to be cumulative in our environment. Also, with the
reduction of phosphorus and moly, longer life of catalytic converters is
supposed to be realized.  The new rating is said to help engine efficiency,
THEY say. From the reps, I got that it was mainly to appease the
environmental lobby, at the cost of sacrificing beneficial lubricant
additives. I`m not getting in to that part of the discussion, just the parts
that affect your bike.
    What do we as motorcyclists need the phosphorus and moly for? The
phosphorus and moly come into play mainly in high stress operations and in
certain high heat/high stress areas of the engine, I.e. cam journals, rod
end bearings etc. In these situations and areas, the phosphorus and moly
help prevent metal- to- metal contact as the oil heats up and adhesion is
reduced.
    Whereas automotive engines are not as dependent on the heavy metals
 due to higher volume and pump pressures, better oil galley and channel
designs) motorcycle engines with no pumps (splash systems) or small, low
pressure and volume pumps, along with rpms in excess of 4 and 5 thousand ,
have a need for that extra protection.
    This holds true for the synthetics as well. All of the automotive
synthetics had larger amounts of the heavy metals than they now do under
SH/SJ.
    What I got from my reps is not what you`ll get if you call and ask the
customer relations people. I called Shell and Mobil yesterday to see what
they would tell " off the street John Q. Public". The line I was given from
both was that while they could not devulge any oil formulation data ( highly
secret and proprietary), they would tell me that SH/SJ was a higher
standard, and since it exceeded the old ratings, it would be BETTER for
motorcycles. They would not admit to the significant reductions in
phosphorus, moly and other heavy metals. I was told that that information
probably came from a producer of motorcycle specific oils. I didn't tell
them that it came from their own engineer reps.
        I`ll share another little tidbit. The NEW Mobil One for motorcycles
is, guess what, their pre-SJ formula. Yes that`s right, Mobil One for
Motorcycles is the original automotive Mobil One  with the original amounts
of additives     ( and a few more thrown in) , re-labeled  for motorcycle
use, and doubled in price.
 A guy I was talking to at Baja Designs last week said that they do oil
analysis like we do in aviation, once a year, to compare oil blends. He said
that the SJ Mobil One, so far, has shown the same phosphorus and moly
content as the old Mobil One did. He said they were doing another one in a
couple of weeks and would fax me the results. That goes along with my Mobil
rep telling me that the SJ Mobil One wasn`t reduced as much as some of the
other synthetics.
   You can decide for yourself what oil you`re going to use, but I believe
you`ll see the bike manufacturers tell you not to use the new SJ grades. If
you want to use a non-synthetic oil, you`ll have to go to a diesel oil to
get it , as most of the diesel multi-grades are under the older ratings.
Rotella 15W40 would be a good one.
   The above is just passed on information for you guys and gals to use as
you see fit. For me, I would not be using any of the automotive oils any
longer, except for maybe the Mobil One.

  Skip ( oiled out and needin` a change)






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Blowing headlight fuses
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:35:06 -0700


I think one thing that contributes to blown headlight fuses is the design of the
dimmer switch. As you switch from "low" to "high" there is a point in the dimmer
switch lever travel where BOTH the headlight filaments are getting current. With one
of my other bikes I used to use this "middle" position to get more light on the road.


I think you may have hit on it Don...no one else has ventured a guess. I've had the
same experience but now seldom flip my switch because it is always on high and I
seldom ride at night...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR (klr650) oil changes
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:32:08 -0700



>Does this change to SH/SJ make the Castrol less good or more better?
>
>Jake, bad grammer and awl
>



Less good.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Is there a Honda GL500 Silver Wing list?
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:39:24 -0700

>There is a wonderful article about a couple that rode ther CX 500 through 89
>countries and over 250,000 kilometers. Wow! Its in April 99 MOTORCYCLIST
>magazine


I read that Honda had more new patents on the CX than any manufacturer has had on any
new introduction (200 some if I remember). A pushrod engine that could rev to 10K.
What a joy to do a valve adjustment on a bike with its heading sticking up and
out...shaft drive...and the aesthetics!..just kidding on this last..

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Blowin' headlight fuses
Date: 16 Mar 1999 20:42:57 -0800

With one
of my other bikes I used to use this "middle" position to get more light on
the road.
------------
Might be another Kawi trademark. I used the SUPER BEAM aka. "middle"
position  on my CSR 750 and maybe the old KH400. Never blew a fuse though. A
pity if the KLR won't handle the strain, the SUPER BEAM cut through a lot of
NH fog. We shall see...(or not.)

-rik

*** not so bright A13 rider.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Chase Harper Tank Bags
Date: 16 Mar 1999 20:49:25 -0800



>I've been using the same Chase Harper bag since 1984!!!!! (It's been on 6
>different bikes and been from Maine To Florida)
> They hold up well and it's STILL WATERPROOF!
>


How does the magnetic attachment perform?  I'm a little concerned that
bouncing off road would bounce the bag off without any straps to secure it.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Blowing headlight fuses
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:40:15 -0700



>
>I think one thing that contributes to blown headlight fuses is the design
of the
>dimmer switch. As you switch from "low" to "high" there is a point in the
dimmer
>switch lever travel where BOTH the headlight filaments are getting current.
With one
>of my other bikes I used to use this "middle" position to get more light on
the road.
>
>
>I think you may have hit on it Don...no one else has ventured a guess. I've
had the
>same experience but now seldom flip my switch because it is always on high
and I
>seldom ride at night...
>
>Kurt
>


I`m sorry to be the fly in the ointment Kurt, but on the three occasions I
blew fuses, two were in the day, on the hiway, and doing nothing but
watching for idiot cage drivers. I personally think it was transient spikes
or surges ( which is common on D.C. charging systems) coupled with minimum
rated size wire. A perfect combo for blowing a fuse. To give further proof
for that opinion, since installing larger gage wire, I`ve had no blown
breakers. Who knows?

 Skip

 Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) What's in a name?
Date: 16 Mar 1999 08:51:17 -0800

Kurt writes:

Kurt A12 El Poppo
Salt Lake City
**********************

Kurt-  El Poppo? What happened to Oingo Boingo?  Did you get a new A12 or
just new suspension?  Darrel A12 'avenger'




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Is there a Honda GL500 Silver Wing list?
Date: 16 Mar 1999 23:46:03 EST

In a message dated 3/16/99 9:39:40 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I read that Honda had more new patents on the CX than any manufacturer has
had on any
 new introduction (200 some if I remember). >>

Anyone remember the the Honda Turbo CX650?  Drop dead gorgeous bike,
especially the white and gold model.  Looked fast just sitting there.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Blowin' headlight fuses
Date: 16 Mar 1999 22:54:56 -0000

DO NOT USE THE MIDDLE POSITION OF THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH!!!

I used to do this on all my other bikes I've had over the years with no
problems.

I then needed it on an unlit mountain road late at night.  Worked for a few
minutes, then POOF! No lights anywhere!!  I limped to a rest area using the
turnsignal, this will be your only light source if you blow the fuse inline
with the headlight.  This is very, very, bad!

Anyone have any info/opinions on e-type headlights from Europe?

BTW, whatever happened to whoever was making his own fusebox for the KLR
(Skip, Kurt???)

EJ




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Moody <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Blowin' headlight fuses
Date: 17 Mar 1999 00:25:49 -0500

My suggested solution is to replace the stock fuseholder with Bussman
type HHD fuseholders.  They accept automotive ATC blade type fuses.  But
instead of fuses go to your local NAPA or heavy duty truck store and get
thermal reset breakers and plug them into your new fuseholders.
They will open the circuit when there is an overload, but once the
overload is cleared, they automatically reset.



Eric Jasniewicz wrote:
>
> snip
>
> BTW, whatever happened to whoever was making his own fusebox for the KLR
> (Skip, Kurt???)


--
Bryan Moody
Greensboro, NC
86 Concours, 94 KLR650
COG Southeast Area Director http://www.concours.org/se

IronButt Association: BBG, 1000ccc



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Is there a Honda GL500 Silver Wing list?
Date: 16 Mar 1999 22:29:42 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>In a message dated 3/16/99 9:39:40 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< I read that Honda had more new patents on the CX than any manufacturer
has
>had on any
> new introduction (200 some if I remember). >>
>
>Anyone remember the the Honda Turbo CX650?  Drop dead gorgeous bike,
>especially the white and gold model.  Looked fast just sitting there.
>
>Gino
>
>

Of all the killer fast three cylinder Kawasakis I have ridden, I think the
CX650 turbo had to be the fastest smoothest bike I ever rode.  Of course
riding my buddies CX650T in the middle of the night without a helmet at over
120 and the roar of the wind in my ears had nothing to do with it.  It would
go as fast as you had the guts to hold the throttle open.

Fred    There are old pilots and bold pilots but not old bold pilots.  To be
old and wise first you have to be young and stupid.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Braking Physics (NKLR)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 20:45:32 PST




> However, what does a second brake system do for us?  It would seem to =

> double the braking force by doubling the contact area.  However, notice
> that the contact area isn't a factor in the friction equation; it's a =

> term that drops out in the proof.
>
> No; the only way to increase the braking force is to increase either =
the
> CofF or N (or both).

Here there are two things that have changed with two rotors/pads. The big=
gest gain is that you have now doubled your normal force. Let's assume =
that the pressure of the brake fluid is  10 psi when braking( this is pro=
bably not even close, but for the sake of example). The fluid can produce=
 an infinite amount of force! Why because it is 10 pounds per square inch=
; force produced depends on the amount of area the pressure is acting on.=
 If I have 10 inches of surface area that the fluid is pushing on, then =
we will have 10/in^2 *10 in^2 =3D 100 lb of force on the rotor. If we hav=
e 100 in^2 of area that the fluid is putting pressure on then we will hav=
e 10 lb/in^2 * 100 in^2 =3D 1000 lb of force. So we will have about twice=
 the frictional force produced with 2 rotors ( given that everything else=
 is the same ).

Increase in contact area will produce a  small increase in frictional for=
ces ( I know others do not agree). Why do drag racer have wide tires? Why=
 do we want to have a greater contact patch in a turn so we try to minimi=
ze the lean of the bike?

I emailed my friend who has a PhD in dynamic/kinematics for a reference =
on the area/friction issue.

I did find out that I was wrong on at least one point. Wet friction will =
increase with velocity; Wet friction (with lubrication) will increase wit=
h an increase in relative velocity of the surfaces. Disc brakes, however,=
 work by dry friction.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Braking Physics
Date: 16 Mar 1999 20:58:31 PST




> I believe its because the disk surface maintains a better alignment wit=
h the
> brake pads during application.  When the force applied is exactly ortho=
gonal
> to the surface, then the max normal force is generated, and therefore =
a
> greater frictional force results.
>
> Jeff


What is the (sin 90 - sin 89). About .0002  This is not significant diffe=
rence.

Okay assume you are 5 degress off with non-floating pads ( which is proba=
bly only 1 deg.) the difference is still only 0.4%

This can not explain the improvement in braking.

It is probably due to more surface area contact! ( I know some do not agr=
ee. Find a better explaination )

Alex




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alex Jomarron <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Reno 200
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:39:03 -0800 (PST)

Greetings KLRists,

The Reno 200 is looking very intriguing to me. I'm thinking of
delaying my Alaska departure to ride it. Anyone thinking of going?

Cheers,






==
Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL USA
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Auto Oils in the Bike
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:33:54 PST



----------
> Dean asked what I got from the oil reps on the new oil ratings change. =
The
> industry line for changing to SH/SJ was to mainly  reduce the levels =
of
> phosphorus, moly and other heavy metals present in the old rating stand=
ards.
> These additives are said to be cumulative in our environment.

In a bike shop I recently saw Suzuki "motorcycle oil" with the SJ rating!

Alex




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Meagher" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Pac-Safe Information from Australia
Date: 16 Mar 1999 23:36:20 -0600





Listerinos,
Here's some more follow up on the Pac-Safe stuff from Magnus of Outpac
Designs,
the manufacturer, FYI.

>I just sent this to him:
Hi Magnus,
I'm out of Houston Texas.
I've owned lots of different types of bikes.  Right now I have a Yamaha
V-Max, which I'm selling in order to buy a Kawasaki KLR650 Dual-Sport type
of scoot.

In fact, I found out about your product was from a posting on the KLR650
news list.  (one of our listers suggested that a suitable substitute might
be made from a piece of rubber-dipped chicken wire (pat. pend.), so beware
of the fierce competition!  ;^)).

I plan on riding the KLR to Alaska this summer, and I was looking for one
of
your security nets for the trip.

Perhaps I could I be a volunteer to "beta-test" a proto-type product?  I'd
write a heck of a glowing testimonial...

As an interim measure, what about combining two or three of your largest
standard products together to create a virtual XX large size one?

Thanks!
Tom Meagher


-----Original Message-----


>Tom,
>We are designing at the moment and a product should be hitting the market
>within 8-12 months.
>Where are you based? How did you hear about the Pacsafe? What sort of bike
do
>you own?
>Speak to you soon,
>Magnus
>
>
>Tom Meagher wrote to Outpac Designs Ltd:
>
>> Hi guys,
>> Great product you're selling, have you considered making a BIG one that
>> would cover a motorcycle with soft luggage all the way from the tank bag
>> back to the tail and saddle bags?
>>
>> Could be a big market, and bikers like me wouldn't mind lugging around a
>> much heavier net than a hiker could stand, for the sake of some extra
peace
>> of mind.
>>
>> Let me know what your plans are, we'll post them to our newsgroup...
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Tom Meagher
>> [e-mail]
>
>--
>**********************************
>Magnus McGlashan
>Director
>Outpac Designs Ltd.
>mailto:[e-mail]
>http://www.pac-safe.com
>
>***********************************
>***********************************
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Is there a Honda GL500 Silver Wing list?
Date: 17 Mar 1999 00:29:33 EST

In a message dated 3/16/99 8:58:29 PM Pacific Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Anyone remember the the Honda Turbo CX650?  Drop dead gorgeous bike,
 especially the white and gold model.  Looked fast just sitting there.

 Gino
  >>
Yeah, I see them (CX650 Turbo) for sale every once in a while around here in
the $2800.00 price range. Nice reliable bike. I did a little touring on a
Silver Wing Interstate back in the 80's. Smooooooth. Water Cooled, Shaft Drve,
and not overly expensive.

Bill S



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alex Jomarron <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) tank bag nomination
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:43:27 -0800 (PST)

I SWEAR by my RevPack tankbag.
I have the standard size which is a tad too large for the KLR. Rev
makes one that is 2/3rds the size. The thing is WATERPRROOF! Very
simple design. I've had mine for 10 years and last year the velcro
lost its gription. I sent it in, Rev repaired it......FREE!
They are in New Cayuma, CA and have a ranch that hosts bike events.
Cool people.

Just my opinion from a satisified customer.

Cheers,






==
Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL USA
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Braking Physics (NKLR)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 21:31:26 -0800

>
>The one thing that didn't sit right with me was the comment someone made
>that two disc rotors (and pads, etc.) gives better braking than a single
>rotor.
>
>That statement seems intuitively obvious, but my physics teacher claimed
>that the obvious is wrong more often that not.  So, I did a mental
>exercise.
>
>We know that the braking is simply a controlled increase in friction, so
>that force is (normal force [N] * coeff. of friction[CofF]).  (Normal
>force is the force that's 90 degrees to the plane of the contact patch.)
>
>However, what does a second brake system do for us?  It would seem to
>double the braking force by doubling the contact area.  However, notice
>that the contact area isn't a factor in the friction equation; it's a
>term that drops out in the proof.
>
>No; the only way to increase the braking force is to increase either the
>CofF or N (or both).  CofF can be changed by changing the rotor or brake
>pads.  Since the KLR doesn't have an assisted braking system, all the N
>comes from the rider's fingers, and unless the lever is hitting the
>grip, there's not a lot that can be done.
>
>So what do dual rotors do, other than make money for the parts stores?
>
>Brakes, by design, convert kinetic energy (speed) into thermal energy
>(heat).  When the brakes get hot, the CofF drops.  (We call this 'brake
>fade'.)  Each of the two rotors (in theory) does half the total braking,
>and generate half as much heat as a single rotor brake.


Ok, remember how a "hydraulic lever" acts.  You take a small(er) force,
apply it to a small area, and move it through a larger distance.  The brake
fluid, as all fluids is incompressible and transfers the force to the output
side, the calipers.  Pressure is equal to force divided by the area.  The
pressure is different on the input side (brake lever) than the output side,
as the areas of the pistons is different.  This change in pressure, delta p,
is equal to the ratio of the input force divided by the input area, which is
equal to the output force divided by the output pressure.  That is:

F(i)/A(i) = F(o)/A(o).   From this equation, you see that given the input
force supplied by the hand, and the area if the input piston, for the output
side to have a larger area at the caliper piston means that the output force
must be larger to equate.  Now, imagine that the brake line is split, and
there are two calipers, therefore twice the area on the output side.  Fi/Ai
= Fo/2Ao.  As you can see, the output force would have to be twice as large
to equate.  This output force is divided equally to the two brakes though,
so each brake imparts the same amount of force on each rotor.  Therefore,
the total frictional force supplied is twice that of the single rotor
system.  In reality is it like this though?  No.  The reason is because of
another equation, dealing with the volume of brake fluid that must move.
The Volume is equal to the input Area (Ai) times the distance di, which is
also equal to the Area of the output Ao times the distance at the output do.
That is, V = Ai*di = Ao*do.  This means that the smaller area piston must
travel a greater distance to equal the output side with the larger area.
You take a smaller force, and move it through a greater distance.  Obviously
this isn't practical as the brake lever can only move so far.  Design
considerations that are determined by how much tolerance you need at the
calipers for the brakes to slip without too much friction when the brakes
aren't applied.

Another poster stated that by adding a larger brake pad the area of the
output side has increased.  I don't believe this to be true, since the fluid
pressure is acting on the caliper piston's area, not on the brake pad
directly.

As to rotors of a larger diameter having more braking force due to the rotor
having greater velocity at the greater radius.  There actually is some truth
to this, but not by the actual braking force that is supplied.  That force
is determined by the normal force and the coefficient of kinetic friction,
period.  But with the work equation, you see that more work is done on the
brake rotor by the frictional force.  Work is equal to force times distance.
The rotor goes through a larger distance, therefore the frictional force
does more work.  But here's the deal.  Without more information regarding
actually measuring the initial speed and the negative acceleration of the
brake rotor when the frictional force is applied, there is no way to
determine how much of the work energy (Work and energy are one and the same)
was converted to kinetic energy, and how much was converted to potential
energy.  The total energy is equal to the potential energy plus the kinetic
energy.  In this case, the "potential" energy is just heat.  So you see, all
of the extra work done by friction can either be converted to kinetic energy
and actually stop the brake faster, or be converted to waste heat, which is
a bad thing and causes the brakes to fade.

As you can tell, this is a very interesting subject for me.  I think that I
am going to try and use university resources to study this further.  I
apologize to those who have had to bear through this all, and I promise to
drop this topic off of list replies.  If you have a question, or I forgot
something, or am totally wrong, email me directly and I'll email you back.

"In science, there is only physics.  Everything else is just stamp
collecting."  Ernest Rutherford, credited to discovering the structure of
the atom.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Pac-Safe Information from Australia
Date: 17 Mar 1999 00:53:06 -0500

I wish they did have beta testers, I want to go after one of those nets with
a pair of scissors, I doubt they would hold up to it.  I think they are best
suited for preventing slashings rather than overnight protection.  I will
vouch that while you are traveling through Canada anything tied down will be
safe from theft if you don't park at a mall.  My cars doors do not lock and
I've only suffered from "breakins" while parked on a lawn beside a bus stop.
It happened two nights in a row and both times nothing was taken...they
decided to leave the cell phone.
Stephen Rivett


-----Original Message-----


>
>
>
>From: Tom Meagher@ICS on 03/16/99 11:36 PM
>
>Listerinos,
>Here's some more follow up on the Pac-Safe stuff from Magnus of Outpac
>Designs,
>the manufacturer, FYI.
>
>>I just sent this to him:
>Hi Magnus,
>I'm out of Houston Texas.
>I've owned lots of different types of bikes.  Right now I have a Yamaha
>V-Max, which I'm selling in order to buy a Kawasaki KLR650 Dual-Sport type
>of scoot.
>
>In fact, I found out about your product was from a posting on the KLR650
>news list.  (one of our listers suggested that a suitable substitute might
>be made from a piece of rubber-dipped chicken wire (pat. pend.), so beware
>of the fierce competition!  ;^)).
>
>I plan on riding the KLR to Alaska this summer, and I was looking for one
>of
>your security nets for the trip.
>
>Perhaps I could I be a volunteer to "beta-test" a proto-type product?  I'd
>write a heck of a glowing testimonial...
>
>As an interim measure, what about combining two or three of your largest
>standard products together to create a virtual XX large size one?
>
>Thanks!
>Tom Meagher





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKLR] Give it a brake
Date: 16 Mar 1999 22:28:40 -0800



>While test riding several hogs/pigs in motorcycle clothing (Suzuki
>Intruder 1500, Polaris Victory, etc...) I noticed the fatter front tire
>bikes with a single up-front rotor had a tendency to pull the handlebars
>to the side of the rotor when the front brake was applied. It seemed
>more exagerated on the wider front tire bikes than the other bikes I
>rode with more narrow front ends. Anybody else ever notice this
>phenomenon? The recent threads have SUFFICIENTLY explained brake theory
>(*please don't rehash them, pleeease*) but I found this "seat of the
>pants" discovery rather strange.
>


The answer is in your observation.  With the fatter tires, the rotor is
further from the centerline of the bike.  The straight-line momentum of the
bike in motion is affected by applying forces away from this centerline.  A
torque vector is generated that points away from the direction of travel,
and therefore affects the rotational inertia of the front wheel.  Try this
at home.  Take the front wheel off your ten speed and hold it by the axle by
both hands.  Spin the wheel.  Try applying a force with your hands to the
axle and note how this affects the wheel.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Douglas Stoutenborough" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Is there a Honda GL500 Silver Wing list?
Date: 17 Mar 1999 00:28:05 -0600

yes I had a 650 Turbo. They were Red, White and Blue. only brought 400 of
them into the USA. The CX500 Turbo was more common and was the White and
Gold colors.
Doug  99KLR

-----Original Message-----


>In a message dated 3/16/99 9:39:40 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< I read that Honda had more new patents on the CX than any manufacturer
has
>had on any
> new introduction (200 some if I remember). >>
>
>Anyone remember the the Honda Turbo CX650?  Drop dead gorgeous bike,
>especially the white and gold model.  Looked fast just sitting there.
>
>Gino
>






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Braking Physics (NKLR)
Date: 16 Mar 1999 22:54:34 -0800


Increase in contact area will produce a  small increase in frictional forces
( I know others do not agree). Why do drag racer have wide tires? Why do we
want to have a greater contact patch in a turn so we try to minimize the
lean of the bike?

I have had this same discussion with a nobel prize winning physicist.  The
answer was....unsatisfactory.  But then again, with a drag race tire, we're
dealing with static friction, not kinetic friction.  Some have said that
with the fatter tire, after the burn off strip, the rubber holds its heat
better and thus is more pliable and is able to make more cold welds to the
asphalt surface.  Consider the molecular stucture of the surfaces.  Like the
Alps, right?  The flatter that they are to each other, the more cold welds,
and thus more static coeffecient.  I can see the logic in this as larger
objects definately cool in proportion to their surface area, and the surface
area per volume ratio is smaller with larger objects.

I emailed my friend who has a PhD in dynamic/kinematics for a reference on
the area/friction issue.



Let me know what he says.

I did find out that I was wrong on at least one point. Wet friction will
increase with velocity; Wet friction (with lubrication) will increase with
an increase in relative velocity of the surfaces. Disc brakes, however, work
by dry friction.

Yes, wet friction deals with fluid dynamics.  Like the drag force of air, it
increases with the square of the velocity:  Drag force = 1/2 (Coeffecient of
Drag) x (the density of the fluid) x (the cross sectional area) x (velocity
squared).  This equation was the largest reason why the national speed limit
was set at 55 mph, because as the velocity increases above that, the drag
coeffecient significantly increases, requiring more power from the energy,
burning more gas.  There was an energy crisis on, you know, but they did a
good job of citing safety issues of the lower speeds, didn't they.  I
suspect that was for reasons of national defense, not wanting to appear
vunerable because we couldn't waste the gas to get to work faster.....

Jeff






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw: Rear shock KLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 00:07:11 -0800

Perfect.  I'm going to give the stocker a go for the time being, but when I
make the change, you'll be the first one I call!

Thanks Fred,

Arne

-----Original Message-----


>
>
>>I thought Progressive and White Bros. were two separate and competing
>>companies?
>>
>>Hmmmmmmmmmmmm,
>>
>>Arne
>
>Progressive sells wholesale to distributers and White Bros is the retail
>seller.  White Bros. also sells to dealers like me.  I can order you the
>shock that you want as I talk with them all the time.  The price would be
>the same and you would be helping out the little guy and not just the giant
>company.
>
>Fred Hink
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>                    Arrowhead Motorsports
>http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW*
>                           435-259-7356
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR longevity
Date: 17 Mar 1999 03:06:41 EST

What do you KLR owners consider the longevity of the engines in your bikes to
be?  It appears that some of you have racked up significant miles and i have
noted the warnings about overtightening chains and so on but I am curious how
long one can expect the bikes to last.
Also, I noticed the scoops that attach below the tank appear to be somewhat
vulnerable in the event of a crash.  Is there a way of protecting these or how
do you deal with it?
Thanks for any help.
Joe S.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Blowing headlight fuses
Date: 17 Mar 1999 00:11:15 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>
>I think one thing that contributes to blown headlight fuses is the design
of the dimmer switch. As you switch from "low" to "high" there is a point in
the dimmer switch lever travel where BOTH the headlight filaments are
getting current. With one of my other bikes I used to use this "middle"
position to get more light on the road.


I used to do the same thing all the time with my 1980 KZ750.  Sure lit
things up.  Had the bike for 11 years.  Never replaced the headlight bulb or
fuse (no I wasn't driving in the dark - it worked the whole time).  Maybe I
just got lucky.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Leaky fork seal -er - "band-aid"
Date: 17 Mar 1999 00:13:56 -0800



>John O. (definitely needing to get more in touch with my feminine side)

Arne - who touches his wife's feminine side all the time... SLAP!!!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR longevity
Date: 17 Mar 1999 00:46:47 -0800




>Also, I noticed the scoops that attach below the tank appear to be somewhat
>vulnerable in the event of a crash.  Is there a way of protecting these or
how
>do you deal with it?


Well, plastic things break.  These break at the attachment points.  Nothing
that a couple of 5 cent zip ties couldn't handle.  The cost of new Kawa
plastic is robbery though, hence my cheap fix.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  JB Weld
Date: 17 Mar 1999 00:55:45 -0800



>Stephen, clamp your shift lever in a vice so that it is compressed shut as
if
>a bolt were tight, but don't put the bolt in. Take your hack saw and cut
>through the slit that is compressed shut so that you are cutting away the
>thickness of the saw blade and try that on the shaft, if it is better, but
not
>quite perfect, do it again to remove more metal. If that doesn't work,
don't
>dispair, removing the shaft is not a complex task.
>Good luck, Frank
>

Upon reflection, I think that this is the best fix over any of the others
that were suggested, like drilling a hole through the shaft.  Good one,
Frank!

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) What's in a name? NKLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 05:14:56 -0700

>Kurt A12 El Poppo
>Salt Lake City
>**********************
>
>Kurt-  El Poppo? What happened to Oingo Boingo?  Did you get a new A12 or
>just new suspension?  Darrel A12 'avenger'


I gave it an additional name after adjusting the pilot screw....




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR longevity
Date: 17 Mar 1999 05:34:46 -0700

>What do you KLR owners consider the longevity of the engines in your bikes to
>be?

In the latest issue of Dual Sport News (Subscription $15/yr in US...$20/yr outside
US, Dual Sport Owners Group, P.O. Box 698, Sandia Park, New Mexico, 87047), Eldon
Carl reports on the results of an intensive study of his 54,500 mile engine. Here is
a summary:

1. KLR's ridden hard in dirt and on street will need rebuild at 60K. Rebuild may need
cam and balancer chains, all balancer sprockets, 4 balancer bearings, balancer/idler
shaft and bearing, new rings and hone (or rebore and oversized piston). Eldon
believes this figure can be improved if an owner acts on the oil level gauge problem
and keeps the oil at optimum level (10 ounces above sight glass).

Scott Waxman, engineer studying the same engine thinks it would be possible to make
100K if:

1. Street riding only w/o cruising over 70-75 mph
2. Oil change every 2,500 miles and filter every 5,000
3. Change cam chain, balancer chain, balancer idler shaft and bearing  every 33K
(very important)
4. Maintain engine oil level above the window (add 10-12 ounces when you see a bubble
in the glass)
5. Keep air cleaner clean and oiled

Kurt
Salt Lake City





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Side scoops...
Date: 17 Mar 1999 05:36:53 -0700

>Also, I noticed the scoops that attach below the tank appear to be somewhat
>vulnerable in the event of a crash.  Is there a way of protecting these or how
>do you deal with it?
>Thanks for any help.
>Joe S.


I saw Allan Parker's radiator shroud after he fell sideways on a big boulder..not a
pretty sight, also destroyed his fan...Obe Wan's new radiator guard will help that on
the left side....otherwise, Aerostitch Tank Panniers may help depending on what is
loaded in them...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Reno 200...NKLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 05:38:56 -0700

>The Reno 200 is looking very intriguing to me. I'm thinking of
>delaying my Alaska departure to ride it. Anyone thinking of going?
>
>Cheers,


I'll do it with you...Vik and I are also signed up for the Kamloops thing, but I know
that you and Stuart will be laughing at us with that one...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Blowin' headlight fuses...Dr. Moreau's mod...
Date: 17 Mar 1999 05:41:48 -0700

>BTW, whatever happened to whoever was making his own fusebox for the KLR
>(Skip, Kurt???)
>
>EJ


Dr. Moreau forwarded the instructions to Redondo, Jake Taylor and I. I intend on
doing a write-up in DSN...Jake has already done the mod. If you can't wait write Doc
offlist...we're waiting for the KLR pipeline to clear on Redondo's carb article...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Blowing headlight fuses...NKLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 05:43:09 -0700


>I`m sorry to be the fly in the ointment Kurt, but on the three occasions I
>blew fuses, two were in the day, on the hiway, and doing nothing but
>watching for idiot cage drivers. I personally think it was transient spikes
>or surges ( which is common on D.C. charging systems) coupled with minimum
>rated size wire. A perfect combo for blowing a fuse. To give further proof
>for that opinion, since installing larger gage wire, I`ve had no blown
>breakers. Who knows?

Why didn't anyone tell me life was going to be so hard...(Lucy
voice...waaaaaaaaahhhhh)

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR longevity
Date: 17 Mar 1999 08:38:31 +0000

At 05:34 AM 3/17/99 -0700, Kurt Simpson wrote:

>1. Street riding only w/o cruising over 70-75 mph


    I usualy run about 80. Hmmm...


>2. Oil change every 2,500 miles and filter every 5,000


    I do both oil and filter every 2,500 to 3,000.


>3. Change cam chain, balancer chain, balancer idler shaft and bearing
every 33K
>(very important)


    !

    Have any of you ever priced that balancer chain? AAAUUUGGGGHHH!!!


    Anybody know of a cheaper source?



>4. Maintain engine oil level above the window (add 10-12 ounces when you
see a bubble
>in the glass)


    I usualy keep it right at the top of the glass.



>5. Keep air cleaner clean and oiled



    Uh, yeah. At least biannualy.  :)




-Tom
'96 KLR 650
32,700 miles





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Mission Failed
Date: 17 Mar 1999 08:08:58 -0700

Well List, I appreciate the help many of you gave me in trying to find my
wife a KLR, but the fates and my wife have conspired against me. She has a
red half-breed F650 on order, should be here in two weeks. As much as I
tried, I fear a divorce is imminent. Whereas I threatened that I would
build another garage to keep my A9 in, before I let that F650 in there, I`ve
changed my mind. Why should I have to do anything, so I gift wrapped a nice
new blue poly-tarp for her and plan to give it to her when the bike gets
here. Wait till she has to clear 3 feet of snow off of it every other day.
   I`m sure things will work out once she realizes the BIG mistake she`s
made, except she`ll have to budget down to one meal a day and no new clothes
for 5 years, plus a second job, just to pay for the thing.
   I will humbly concede that the one thing I am jealous of is the 280 watts
the F650 puts out. She`s already ordered driving lights, heated grips and an
accessory plug.


   Skip ( gettin ready for the bike war)





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)Tank Bags
Date: 17 Mar 1999 07:30:34 -0800

Bill - I have had the Kawi tank and tail bags on my bike since I bought it a
year (and 8500 miles) ago. I have heard the complaints about zipper, seams
and plastic degradation on the tank bag, but I have had no problems
whatsoever. I live in a semi-desert area, with 300+ days a year of sun, and
summer temps often in excess of 100. I don't use any bike cover, and I don't
have a garage, so the bike and the bags have been continuously exposed to
the elements since I bought them. I couldn't be happier with their ability
to withstand this kind of abuse - neither bag shows any meaningful signs of
wear, and they both continue to fit and function like the day I bought them.
I use the Aerostitch panniers on longer trips, and they are just fine with
the tank bag.
My .02.
Mike Magier
98 A12 GroundHog
----------
>some of the most popular.  I would like to hear from those of you who
>are using a tank bag that you are SATISFIED with.  No complaints please.
>Apparently the Kawi bag fell from grace after extended use by some. Even
>Bill Wright
>Hotlanta, GA.
>98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 22,600 miles
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Hugh Stout <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR longevity
Date: 17 Mar 1999 07:25:33 -0800

At 12:46 AM 3/17/99 -0800, Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:
>
>
>
>>Also, I noticed the scoops that attach below the tank appear to be somewhat
>>vulnerable in the event of a crash.  Is there a way of protecting these or
>how
>>do you deal with it?
>
>
>Well, plastic things break.  These break at the attachment points.  Nothing
>that a couple of 5 cent zip ties couldn't handle.  The cost of new Kawa
>plastic is robbery though, hence my cheap fix.
>
>Jeff
>
I've had reasonable luck refixing the atachment points with a hot glue gun.
 They do tend to fail at the same places the next time I drop the bike, but
it seems to hold up on the road.  Maybe a little research with different
kinds of hot glues would help.


Hugh Stout
'74 R90/6
'78 CB400T2
'94 KLR650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) MC trailer design
Date: 17 Mar 1999 07:53:56 -0700

I have built a few. If you can give me some specs I can tell you what has
worked for me. Axle placement is only one of the considerations you have to
make.
Happy Trails
Tim
-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>


>>Does anyone know what ideal weight bias should be (tongue/axle) for
>>stability with minimum tongue weight?
>
>Optimum is 1:9; 1/10 of the total weight should be on the hitch.  I
>wouldn't go far from that in either direction, but if the ratio changes
>between loaded/unloaded, I'd keep a minimum of 1/10 on the tongue.
>
>So long as the rating of the hitch isn't exceeded, you can pile as much
>as you want on the tongue.  Going below 1/10 can cause handling
>problems; even instability.
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR  Mission Failed
Date: 17 Mar 1999 09:20:25 -0700

>>but the fates and my wife have conspired against me. She has a
red half-breed F650 on order, should be here in two weeks.<<

That's okay Skip.  Mistakes happen.  I forgive her and I'll send her some
Kawasaki decals to put on it.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alex Jomarron <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Kamloops Rally
Date: 17 Mar 1999 08:30:11 -0800 (PST)

Kurt and Vik,

I'm thinking of doing that rallye too!
I'm going to jam a lot in this summer on the KLR.

Alex




==
Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL USA
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)Tank Bags
Date: 17 Mar 1999 09:34:02 -0700

Another note...the thing I like about the Kawi bag is that it acts as a bra protecting
a good portion of the tank...I keep the tank waxed...and I have no scratches or
blemishes underneath the bag...Also, because  they keep the bag portion low below the
tank filler it works perfectly with a Dual Star Co-Pilot. These two in tandem with the
panniers are a terrific combo...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR...Tom's Report on R100GS
Date: 17 Mar 1999 09:36:27 -0700


Hi guys,
Due to diarhea of the keyboard, I exceeded the 7500 character limit!
(sorry again Kurt)
But I've got something to say.  (even if the emphasis is arguably on
quantity,
not quality....?)  So here is the exciting 1st installment:

(note:  the trouble I've had getting this thing posted is rather typical of
all my
dealings with anything to do with this bike...).

I tried to send this exercise in angst last night from my other e-mail
account, forgetting about the "subscription account only" rule.  (Sorry
Kurt, I think I will
change it over, but I'll try using the majordomo robot first, before I bug
you for help).
My motivation was that this silly Lotus Notes mail program stubbornly
implants little
".pcx" files in everything, which end up as ugly "uuencoded" blocks
appended to the
message (to other Notes users they look real purty...).  It's embarassing!

Haven't quite figured out how to suppress the little buggers, but I hope
this
posting is free of them.

(Authors note:  Apologies in advance, this is a letter (alright, a *rant*)
I
suppose I meant to write to BMW 5 years ago, but never did.  If anyone
wants
to forward it to them, or the GS group, be my guest. I guess this stuff has
been festering for a while, and needed to be let out... sorry...
--tom-- bemusedly stepping off his soapbox, after having semi-cathartically
produced the following)

OK, you asked for it (Well, Vik and others, so here goes):

I bought my '91 R100GS brand new in L.A. (in Torrance, "Browns" was the
dealer, I think), while I was working there as a consultant, late in '91.

This was the third BMW I'd owned (counting the used R65 I bought for my 1st
wife).  My '76 R90/6 was getting a little tired, with well over 100,000 mi
on it (the odometer died at 108K), and 15 years of having to put up with
*me* (run 'em til they puke, re-build 'em, run 'em again...)

Initially, I loved it.  Going back and forth between the /6 and the GS was
a
real revelation.  The GS felt so much more responsive and nimble.  I tried
riding it like a real dirt bike on a number of occasions.  Yeow.
Everything
is relative, eh?

I'm sure most listers here know that "oh shit" feeling when you are
half-way
up a gnarly old steep rutted rocky hill-climb, and you lose momentum...
Well, about this time I began to realize that the GS had an "easily
reachable" (read "exceedable") envelope in the dirt, and when things start
to get out of hand, they can get ugly real fast.  Nothin' like tossin' your
new $7,000 "dirt bike" onto a pile of rocks.  (My wallet puckers at the
mere
thought of riding a new $14,000 R1100GS in similar circumstances).  Anyway,
the GS and I survived these little forays into madness without much more
than a couple of scratches, a few new gray hairs, and some soiled undies.
No big deal, and besides, dirt is not really the point of the bike.  What
the hey, clumsy and frightening in the dirt as it was, it was still a LOT
better than my /6.

About this time, at the 4 week mark or so, the honeymoon started to wear
off.  At first it was just little stuff, like the OEM battery (Varta?)
developed a bad cell, and wouldn't hold a charge.  My poor girl friend gets
a medal of valor for helping me push-start the mother on a couple of
occasions so we could get home.  Replaced under warranty, no problemo.
Then
2 months later, the same thing happened to the new battery.  OK, no big
deal, still, this is not a fun bike to deal with when the battery goes dead
(rue the day they economized the kick starter away...), and not a good
portent.

Now, bear in mind that this was a *California* model, and had the
cannister,
and psuedo-pneumo-solenoidal relay-McValvery that BMW stuck on there (I
suspect no self-respecting BMW engineer actually had anything to do with
that abortion, it smacked of some Detroit consulting firm, or such...).
This bike, when new, was NOT a happy starter.  When cold, no problem, but
ride it a while, stop it, go into the store to buy a paper, and when you
emerge, be prepared to be patient, because maybe it would, and maybe it
wouldn't (feel like starting).

The head mechanic at the dealership in Torrance where I bought it said
(wink, wink, nudge, nudge..) that he had heard that if the emissions stuff
was removed and the tank vented to the atmosphere, that the bike would
start
a LOT better.  Of course the dealer couldn't do this himself because it
wasn't legal (know whuddimean? wink, wink, nudge, nudge..).

So, after the $480 (!!!!) initial service, and, after stripping 5 lbs of
plumbing and little wierd parts off the bike, it DID start a lot better
(let
out a rebel yell and break wind).

OK, nothing's perfect, right?  Well, my girl-friend at the time, who was a
real trooper (and a heck of a little push-starter by now...) started to
complain of headaches when we rode the bike.  It turned out that the stock
exhaust system was designed in such a way that a portion of the exhaust gas
stream siphoned up her back, and into her helmet.  After every ride, her
clothes, and her hair would smell like exhaust.  Well, OK, just cut a piece
of aluminum flashing, take some hose clamps, and presto, we have a one foot
extension to the exhaust pipe that reduces the problem dramatically.  (and
so stylish, to boot)  I guess none of the test riders had any girl friends,
eh?  (Maybe they strapped their inflatable pleasure companions to the rear
to save weight, for test purposes, and THEY didn't complain...)

OK, nothing's perfect, right?  (did I already say that?)  Now, I'm a pretty
big guy (well maybe not TOO pretty...) and I like to ride two up, with
saddle bags, etc.  So I guess I put quite a load on the rear shock.
Anyway,
after a few months, the stock (Boges, I think) shock had totally puked it's
guts out.  There was no more life, or oil, left in the poor thing.  It had
devolved to it's humble evolutionary origin as a rear spring.  Shocking.
Under warranty, of course, no problem.  I mean, hey, what can you expect,
it's only a BMW, right?  (what, me? sarcastic?)  Now my NEW shock was OK,
for about another maybe 6 months (I tried to baby it) before IT died too,
in
the same shocking messy fashion, spilling it's precious bodily fluids
everywhere.  By this time I had moved back to Tucson, and Marty at Iron
Horse (one of the world's great BMW shops), even though I'd bought the bike
in L.A., offered to give me full list price credit ($400 bucks or so) on my
double whupped Boge towards a new Ohlins rear shock, sporting a big sexy
red
spring, so it only ended up costing me a hundred bucks or so (this was a
$500-$600 unit as I recall).  Now the Ohlins, this was a REAL shock
absorber.  End of shock problem.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Auto Oils in the Bike
Date: 17 Mar 1999 11:36:59 -0500

At 9:25 PM 3/16/99, Skip Faulkner wrote:
SNIP
>Rotella 15W40 would be a good one.
>   The above is just passed on information for you guys and gals to use as
>you see fit. For me, I would not be using any of the automotive oils any
>longer, except for maybe the Mobil One.
>
>  Skip ( oiled out and needin` a change)

Rotella is now SJ rated. I have been know to use it in my bikes though as I
had the assumption that diesel oils were better due to the higher
compression of diesel engines. I'll typically cut in 1.6qt of Rotella with
1qt Yamalube.
Another thing I use SG motor oil for cars. You can find it on the shelves
at grocery stores because nobody buys motor oil at the grocer. These cans
have been sitting there since 1994-96 and are dusty. Does anyone know if
shelflife is a concern?
Mark
B2
A2





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR..Tom's R100 Part two...
Date: 17 Mar 1999 09:41:46 -0700

About this time, the front tire started losing about 5 -10 lbs of air
pressure every day.  Took it in, no problems found, re-seated it.  Much
better.  For 2 weeks anyway.  Took it in again.  Hypothesis: tubeless rim
leak.  Solution:  goopy stuff.  Well, OK, I can live with that I guess.  I
think It took two, or was it three, outpatient visits to get this sorted.

Shortly after this, I started having trouble shifting, and then the clutch
started going bad. The clutch (always the weak point on my /6) started
gradually being very "grabby" and hard to control, it felt like some sticky
old clutch cable from a mini-bike my neighbor had.  Then it started
sometimes not engaging completely, and slipping.  The little sucker
actually
STRANDED me a couple of times.  (In 15 years, my /6 had NEVER stranded me).
By this time I was living way north of Seattle, and it was time to TOW it
to
a new dealer (Gregg's Greenlake, I think), still under warranty.  He gave
me
a new clutch cable, pulled the bowls off the carbs to clean them, and
charged me $160 (the float bowl cleaning wasn't covered by warranty, and I
*had* mentioned that the carburetion seemed bad, but I still felt ripped
off...).  Anyway, the joker broke down again, same clutch thing, leave it
for two more weeks at the shop, they think they fix it, said it was some
micro-clutch pushrod adjustment tolerance, or some such, known to be fussy,
etc... etc...   blah blah blah.  I think it took three, or was it four,
multi-day stays in the shop to get this straightened out.  (well, I sold it
a month after the last shop visit, still under warranty (barely), so the
new
owner will have to say if it really was fixed or not).

Stay tuned for the exciting conclusion....

Tom







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR...Tom's R100GS Part III
Date: 17 Mar 1999 09:42:34 -0700


As we left our hero, he was wrestling with clutch problems,
now see what happens to further destroy his already precarious
perch on motorcycle nirvana:

OK, no biggy.  But then there was the trivial stuff.  First of all, the
electrical switches were crap.  I mean, they were the cheapest pieces of
junk I've ever seen on any motorcycle (of course, I've never had a british
bike).  Not only did they not work very well, they had terrible "look and
feel", (reminding you every time you used them, that there were accountants
in control here somewhere, and not engineers).  My /6 switches were great,
where did BMW go wrong?  I seem to recall I fitted new model switches that
helped somewhat, but still...

What about those wimpy plastic BMW saddle bags.   $700 bucks for those
things?  Man, they saw *me* coming.  After a couple of weeks, I grazed
something while lane-splitting (very lightly), and the plastic mounting
flange on one bag cracked.  I had to go all over creation to get the thing
"plastic welded", but the design was SO WIMPY that it's pretty hard to be
proud of it.  And the locks were a joke, they required constant cleaning,
and kept popping open or falling apart.  I developed a modification that
allowed them to be serviceable by drilling through them and adding a
stainless pin.  Plus, the saddlebags never fit snugly onto the mounts, and
always vibrated and made horrible sounds.  I ended up putting tape and
plastic tubing over the mounts, to try to take up some of the slack.
Jeesh.
Good thing they only cost $700...

Take the headlight assembly.  After a year or so, I remember that the
headlight kept falling out of it's mounting, and dangling on the front
fender, when the bike was ridden hard.  There was nothing really to secure
it, and the tolerances sort of loosened up, so it started falling out.  OK,
I can deal, take off the duct tape and  put a self tapping screw in.  No
biggy.

How about the paint on front fender?  My bike was fire engine red, I'd
wanted black, but oh well.  After a year or so, all the paint on the front
fender started to flake off, revealing the black plastic beneath.  Pretty
ugly, but at least I was starting to get the black color I'd originally
wanted...  Marty replaced it, but he did mutter a little bit under his
breath.

Like the little mini-fairing on the front.  First of all, guaranteed to put
the wind blast right in my face, and maximize helmet buffeting.  OK, I can
put an after market windshield on.  Problem was, I recall, that the little
mini-fairing was held on by some wierd combination of screws/bolts that
were
almost impossible to remove.  It was designed by some masochistic fiend in
a
fever dream.  (Of course by this time, it really MIGHT have been just
me)...

And don't even get me started on the STUPID BMW oil filter.  Why put it
right inside the hot exhaust pipe?  Why make it so it has to be jointed?
Funny little sequence of washers and spacers that has to be JUST SO.  Cover
plate that can only be removed by removing the right exhaust pipe, or
specially cut ball-head allen wrenches, which they don't supply.  I still
have the burn scars, thank you BMW.   Why Why Why?  Always more of a drag
than it has to be to change the oil...

And there was a *bunch* of other little stuff.  Rider footpegs were a
problem, as I recall.  Passenger footpegs were a problem, as I recall.
Shift lever seal died and leaked all over everything.  Rear brake lever
adjustment range not being designed right, resulting in extremely poor
braking when the shoes still had plenty of wear left,  Etc. Etc..

But the above complaints are only the loveable "personality" type stuff,
right?  Let's get to the real heart of the matter.  The performance.
Initially, my impression was that it was nicely "peppy", then I began to
notice that I was having a hard time passing cars.  In one impromptu
drag-race against a VW rabbit (not the diesel version, thank god), on a hot
Tucson summer day, with my girlfriend on the back, the rabbit won.  The
*shame* of it.  My /6 would have blown the doors off it.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR...Tom's R100GS Part IV...
Date: 17 Mar 1999 09:43:12 -0700

Well OK, it's tuned for torque, right?  Sort of.  What BMW DID do, and here
is my ONE PRINCIPLE MAIN, PISSES ME OFF MORE THAN ANYTHING ELSE, GRIPE
about
the bike:

The gearing.  BMW took their standard transmission ratios, that they used
on
every boxer twin, and just put 10% lower gearing on the rear end.  Period.
10%, I'm sorry, is not enough to be a real help in the tight and terrible,
but it *is* enough to be a major drag on the highway.  They might as well
have left fourth gear out of the tranny altogether, because fourth and
fifth
were so close as to only make about 100-200 rpm difference at cruising
speed.  Instead of enjoying the pleasant pulsing power throbs of a big twin
on the highway, I felt like I was on some wound-out Honda 90.  And the
mileage sucked.  I never got better than about 36 mpg.  One trip, where I
just nailed it for an hour in the desert somewhere, letting it sit on 110
mph (I was tired and wanted to get there), I drained the tank dry in 100
miles.

What this type of bike needs, IMHO, is a real LOW "granny" gear for first
gear, for those deep nasty sand washes that suck the rear wheel down, and a
real HIGH "overdrive" top gear for easy loping on the highway.  Not some
close ratio road-racer gear box.  I think this is another instance of BMW
being plain old cheap, despite their reputation.  This is re-inforced by
noting that other companies adjust their gear ratios to suit the
application, and don't try to make "one size fits all" compromises.
Furthermore, there are German after-market companies, I once had a catalog,
that manufacture "granny" lows and "overdrive" top gears, for the Boxers,
and this would be the hot ticket.  BMW take notice: throw the accountants
out, or make them ride the bikes.

By the way, I note that the new R1100GS still shares the exact same tranny
as every other 1100, even the much taller geared RS.  Sorry, BMW, but this
still is lame.

To top it off, I was never really comfortable on the bike for long
stretches.  The pegs were too high, and my legs would cramp.   I had a
Corbin seat, that was OK, but kind of restrictive too, and increased knee
bend as well.  And, NO PLACE TO PUT A PAIR OF DAMN HIGHWAY PEGS ON A
BOXER!!!!!  Especially the GS with the silly oil cooler over the right
cylinder.  I would ride with legs propped up on the crash bars, and oil
cooler, but comfy, it was not.  There are trips I would have killed for
some
place else to put my feet.

Summary:  I bet you thought I'd never shut up.  Despite the above, I do
have
some great memories of the GS.  There were some fine and fast fire roads in
Arizona, and the thing was a blast to ride on them, despite bottoming out
on
the jumps and occasional rocks, grinding parts and plumbing and such.
Also,
I used to live on a dirt road, and there was a deep sand wash gully across
it, with good visibility, which I would habitually hit at 40 or 50,
catching
good air, with a nice stable landing, much sweeter than my /6 ever was, (we
won't mention the XR350).  And if you popped the clutch hard enough, you
could, get the front end to come up pretty good in first gear, much better
than my V-Max...

When I bought that bike I thought I'd own it 20 years.  After 2 1/2 years,
and 28,000 mostly mediocre miles I was ready to let it go.  I hope the new
owner loves the poor thing more than I did.  It never looked or sounded so
good as when I watched him test ride it around the parking lot...

Mercifully signing off...
Tom Meagher
R100GS--> XLCH --> V-Max ---> A13 (my lucky number?)







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Winslow <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-KLR longevity: Oil level
Date: 17 Mar 1999 11:44:43 -0500 (EST)

> 4. Maintain engine oil level above the window (add 10-12 ounces when you see a bubble
> in the glass)

What's the story w/10 or 12 ounces more when you see a bubble? How was
this determined?

Eric




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR..Tom's R100 story
Date: 17 Mar 1999 09:52:29 -0700

Tom,

You miss the point. It's a BMW.

Gino, a former BMW owner too, Pokluda



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-KLR longevity: Oil level
Date: 17 Mar 1999 09:56:52 -0700


>> 4. Maintain engine oil level above the window (add 10-12 ounces when you see a
bubble
>> in the glass)
>
>What's the story w/10 or 12 ounces more when you see a bubble? How was
>this determined?
>
>Eric


Why Eric, I'm so glad you asked, it is leprechaun day isn't it..., it originally comes
from Eldon Carl and I've confirmed it on my own bike. If you change your oil and add
oil slowly you will hit the top of the sight glass at 2 qts. 7 ounces -- 10-12 ounces
before the recommended change amount of 2 qts. 19 ounces. This means that when you hit
the sight glass you are already 10 ounces low. Eldon makes up for this by adding 4
ounces every 1,000 miles after an oil change (the amount his bike and mine uses) at
1,000, 2,000 and then he changes it at 3,000. For complete info...order back issue of
Kawasaki 650 Dual Sport News...March/April 1998.

Kurt
Salt Lake City




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Kamloops Rally
Date: 17 Mar 1999 12:05:47 -0500

Where can I find more out about this rally. I'd just like to read about
it.....

Jake



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Kamloops Rally...NKLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 10:17:05 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Where can I find more out about this rally. I'd just like to read about
>it.....
>
>Jake
>
>-----Original Message-----
           From: Gerald Schwartz (by way of Ged Schwartz <>)
           <>
           To: BMW -GS motorcycles mailing list <>
           Date: Saturday, March 13, 1999 12:18 AM
           Subject: BC Canyons Rally '99


           >GSer's,
           >
           >I posted this a few months back and wish to make one final post...if you
           >are already a confirmed registrant or have no interest in a British
           >Columbia dual purpose ride in late July, please hit your trash icon ...
           >thanks for the patience:
           >
           >BC CANYONS RALLY 99
           >
           >>This is an invitation for adventure riders:
           >
           >While riding with a gang of 50 other GSers ( a few 650's and one guy on
his
           >new Triumph street rocket...[he said he left the GS at home])  last summer
           >for three days of Idaho backroads on the way to the Missoula National
(big
           >thanks to Mike from Boise), I decided it would be a lot of fun to share
           >some of British Columbia's best riding with those interested in
backroading.
           >
           >>Here is the concept:  This rally will be limited to a maximum of 20
riders
           >who want to participate in a 3-5 day ride through a variety of canyons,
           >forest service roads, some primo paved sections, and some "on your pegs"
           >terrain. Each rider should have intermediate riding skills, be able to
read
           >good maps (a compass may help sometimes), be "self-reliant" and
adventurous,
           >choose to either camp or rent accommodations (each evening will offer
dinner
           >and the choice of camping or renting accommodation at local inns),  and be
           >ready to ride along river canyons, desert (we have cactus in BC as well as
           >snow, eh!), 4-wheel roads, mountain passes, and most excellent scenery.
           >>
           >>The dates for the rally are from July 26 - 30th, 1999 (full moon on the
           >28th). The rally will convene in Kamloops, BC on the evening of July 25th
           >for socializing and discussing the tour's outline. Each day will offer
150 -
           >300 kms of riding and end with supper being provided. Each day's ride has
           >optional pavement routes or good gravel roads as alternate routes for
those
           >who wish to vary their riding.
           >>
           >>Those who register for the rally will receive the following:
           >>        * Rally itinerary;
           >>        * EXCELLENT maps with routes highlighted and pertinent detailed
           >guide notes;
           >>        * accommodation information so participants can reserve their own
           >>          lodging should they choose not to camp;
           >>        * locations for gas along route to be identified;
           >>        * suppers will be provided each night;
           >>        * breakfast (coffee, fruit,and muffins) will be provided each
           >morning;
           >>        * campsite costs are covered for tenters;
           >>        * probably some other crap also included.
           >>        * recommended "approach routes" for riders from out-of-province
           >>          so you can check out stupendous riding to and from this rally.
           >>
           >   ** Fantastic maps are being provided with the gracious generosity of
           >MUSSIO     VENTURES LTD...publishers of BC's BEST backroad map books. **
           >
           >>This project is intended to be a cost-recovery project and IS NOT a
           >commercial tour...  we organize the basics so you can enjoy the ride and
           >know that showers, campsights and supper are waiting at the end of your
           >day's ride.
           >>
           >>The cost will be $150 Canadian (about $100 US), eh?
           >>
           >>The route travels west from Kamloops, through old Hudson Bay trade routes
           >and Caribou Gold Rush trails, and will travel primarily by gravel and dirt
           >roads (some pavement is necessary for small stretches) through the towns
of
           >
           >Cache Creek, Spences Bridge, Pavillion, Clinton, Bralorne, and Lilooet
           >(these are the major gas stops). The 3-day ride will leave riders a few
           >hours from Pemberton/Whistler (North America's top ski resort [w/glacier
           >skiing in July]), and the 5-day ride brings riders either back to Kamloops
           >or with the option to go to Vancouver or the Okanagan Valley.
           >
           >This ride offers some of BC's best riding in terms of some good paved
sport
           >sections, and a lot of off-slab roads.  An alternate route which is
           >primarily paved for those who don't want the gravel/dirt components will
be
           >marked out on the maps ....this alternate route ends up at the same
           >location each evening as the dirt riders ... the third night will be at
           >Tyax Lodge and will require about 1-2 hours riding on GOOD gravel road
from
           >Lillooet...and the same to ride out the next day...either to Pemberton or
           >back to Lillooet by gravel.
           >
           >You don't need to be Helge Pederson to join the alternate route (but he
can
           >come for free if he wants!)
           >
           >>We are floating this invitation out to you so you can consider next
           >summer's riding plans now. More basic information can be obtained from me
           >(Ged Schwartz) at "" Registration packages (maps,
           >etc) will be mailed to interested parties who e-mail their addresses
           >
           >There are some vacancies remaining...so far the long distance award goes
to
           >*** from Arkansas...unless Erwin makes it across the Bering Straights on
           >his Russian route from Germany.
           >
           >Registration cut-off date is May 31.
           >
           >Thanks for letting me clutter up the list with this post.
           >
           >Ged Schwartz
           >Kamloops, BC
           >[phone]
           >81-80GS
           >96 1100GSABS
           >
           >
           >
           >
           >








-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #140
Date: 17 Mar 1999 12:41:26 EST

Question from the new guy on the block:  Regarding oil levels, some say keep
the oil in the KLR650 10 to 12 oz above the top line of the sight glass.
Another says there's a Kawasaki Technical Bulletin of April 1, 1998 #1050-01
which I gather says adding oil above the sight glass causes excess pressure
that blows a seal out and voids any remaining warranty.

On my 99 LKR650, if I add 10 to 12 oz above the top line in my sight glass,
that means I am adding 2.9 to 3.0 qt instead of 2.6 recommended by my owners
manual when I change oil and filter.

Why is adding the 10 to 12 extra ounces is a good idea?  Is the sight glass
misplaced on the engine?  Does anyone have a copy of that Technical  Bulletin
that they can post?

Ken Reither
Kingwood, TX (Houston)
99 KLR650 with 600 miles
(The riding is great this time of the year.)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #140
Date: 17 Mar 1999 11:00:55 -0700

>>On my 99 LKR650, if I add 10 to 12 oz above the top line in my sight
glass,
that means I am adding 2.9 to 3.0 qt instead of 2.6 recommended by my owners
manual when I change oil and filter.<<

This is a very good point.  Eldon based his findings on a pre 96 KL650
engine which takes 2.5 Liters of oil.  The 96 and up models have a larger
clutch and flywheel which, in theory, would displace some of the oil
capacity.  My manual states 2.5 Liters.  I have heard listers with 96 and up
models quoting quarts.  We need to research this a bit more before we
continue with the 10 oz above the sight glass rule.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Braking Physics (NKLR)
Date: 18 Mar 1999 05:10:21 +1000

Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:

[...]
> Pressure is equal to force divided by the area.  The
> pressure is different on the input side (brake lever) than the output side,
> as the areas of the pistons is different.

I don't agree with this one.
If this is hydraulic pressure, the pressure of the fluid, then it
will be the same enough everywhere in the system, whether at the
master cyl or caliper.

[...]
> You take a smaller force, and move it through a greater distance.

Good ol' leverage.

> Obviously
> this isn't practical as the brake lever can only move so far.  Design
> considerations that are determined by how much tolerance you need at the
> calipers for the brakes to slip without too much friction when the brakes
> aren't applied.

Yeah. Disc runout, caliper seal flex, non linearity of pad friction
etc.

> Another poster stated that by adding a larger brake pad the area of the
> output side has increased.  I don't believe this to be true, since the fluid
> pressure is acting on the caliper piston's area, not on the brake pad
> directly.

Yeah, but differing pad area will affect the pressure of the pad
material on the disc.
Everyone seems to be assuming that pad/disc friction is linear with
pad pressure and temp, which in real life rarely, if ever, is.
But everyone has to assume this or their calculations get _way_ too
complicated.
We are also assuming that a twin disc setup had the same caliper,
master cyl, pad dimensions and material as a single disc setup,
which is not necessarily the case in practice.

[...]
> So you see, all
> of the extra work done by friction can either be converted to kinetic energy
> and actually stop the brake faster, or be converted to waste heat, which is
> a bad thing and causes the brakes to fade.

This I don't get.
Braking converts your bike's motion into heat and to chewing out the
pads and rotor, and sometimes making neat whizzing sounds.
The vast majority of the energy goes into making heat, judging by
how long pads and rotors last.
To brake, you make heat and slowly tear up a couple of sliding
surfaces. There's not much more to it than that.
Besides, heat is just kinetic energy on a molecular level.

What is "waste heat"? Heat the brakes can't get rid of fast enough?

> As you can tell, this is a very interesting subject for me.  I think that I
> am going to try and use university resources to study this further.

Good luck, you'll need it.
Do university resources _really_really_ understand just how bikes
stay upright in the first place?

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR longevity
Date: 18 Mar 1999 05:36:18 +1000

[e-mail] wrote:

[...]
> Also, I noticed the scoops that attach below the tank appear to be somewhat
> vulnerable in the event of a crash.  Is there a way of protecting these or how
> do you deal with it?

I've had an unpleasant experience with the RH air scoop on my 600.
I was riding along a fire trail when I crashed it at fairly low
speed, maybe 50kmh.
The scoop dug right into the ground and pulled the RH radiator back
far enough to hit the fan on the cyl head. The fan was locked so I
had to disconnect it.
Luckily, the radiator didn't leak so I could finish my day in the
bush. More luckily, the radiator still didn't leak are I very
carefully straightened it.
There was a Z bend on the rear of the airscoop where it attached
onto the tank, so I replaced the scoop.
I still like the scoops, they are a handy place to prop my legs on
long trips, better than highway pegs.
All I did to fix the scoop problem was not ride in the dirt anymore.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Reprint of article MCN - Motorcycle Mailing Lists...Part I
Date: 17 Mar 1999 12:01:35 -0700

Motorcycle Mailing Lists: FAQ's & Answers
by LT Snyder March, 1999 (Reprinted with permission from Motorcycle Consumer News,
www.mcnews.com for subscription info)

Part I

Do you know what [e-mail], [e-mail], [e-mail] and
[e-mail] are? If you're a savvy computer user, you'll recognize them as
e-mail addresses to the Kawasaki Concours, Honda ST1100, Honda Hawk and Ducati
Electronic mailing lists. If these cryptic words mean nothing to you, you may just be
missing out on something that could make you a better rider. You may also be missing
out on perhaps the best places to find new and used parts and accessories, get the
best maintenance tips (other than MCN, of course), and find out every quirk and
positive attribute of bikes you own or are interested in.

The international electronic mailing list of lists is held by Carl Paukstis, and was
published in the September and October 1998 issues of MCN. Carl updates his mailing
list monthly due to the transient nature of the internet. As of January 1999, it
includes some 174 electronic mailing lists. Electronic mail in general has
revolutionized the way that many of us communicate with one another. It is no wonder
that it is also revolutionizing riding. Whatever type of bike that you own or type of
riding that you do, the odds are that an electronic mailing list exists to satisfy
your informational and entertainment needs.

To get involved with e-mail lists or "listserv," you don't need to own the latest and
greatest computer. In fact, you don't even need to pay for e-mail service, or for most
of the motorcycle mailing lists on the internet. What you will need is a Pentium-class
machine (or a PowerMac or I-Mac for you Apple users), and at least a 28K modem. An
older modem is sufficient for getting your mail, but to download pictures and see
rich-text and formatting, a faster modem connection is nice to have. For around $700,
you can have a budget multimedia system and be ready to go online. If the start-up
cost of a computer scares you, keep in mind that the money you'll save on being able
to do things yourself on your bike may soon recoup the money invested in the purchase
of the computer.

If you want to receive free e-mail to test the waters of the internet, there are
several companies that provide free e-mail. Juno is the most popular. With local
connection dial-ups in most metropolitan areas, Juno offers free e-mail and doesn't
require that you have an internet connection. Juno makes its money through advertisers
who pay to have their scrolling advertisements at the top and bottom of your computer
screen. If you don't mind looking at these advertisements each time you access your
e-mail, then Juno is a good free way to get on-line. A set-up disk is all you need to
get involved.

Within minutes you will have your own unique e-mail address and be ready to subscribe
to all the bike mailing lists that you desire. The downside to using a basic free Juno
account is the inability to send attachments to your e-mail. Attachments include image
or text files, and are used to send on motorcycle mailing lists to show each other
parts or bikes. The Gold edition of Juno charges $2.95 per month for the ability to
send and receive attachments and a $19.95 charge for Web Juno, which is similar to the
rate charged by most commercial local, regional and national internet providers.

If you desire more than e-mail, and also want to peruse the realm of the World Wide
Web, you can sign up with a national or local internet service provider (ISP) that,
for around $20/month, provides you with unlimited internet access and an e-mail
account. If you have internet access from the office, there are also free e-mail
account providers available on-line. Hotmail, Netscape and other e-mail web servers
offer free e-mail that you can check anywhere in the world. However, you do need an
internet connection to check mail in this fashion. The convenience is that the e-mail
is housed on the server, meaning that you can access it from anybody's machine.

Joining a List

There are probably a wide variety of listservs existing that appeal to both the type
of bike you ride and the type of riding you do. Joining a mailing list is
straightforward. First, look at the list published in MCN, or do a search on the
internet for the motorcycle mailing list that you want to join. You then send a
message to the bike list's server asking to subscribe. A confirmation is then sent to
your e-mail address to ensure that a third party didn't try to subscribe for you. Once
you reply to this automatic message, you become a member of that bike mailing list's
community. It is important to save this response from the mailing server, since it
includes directions for how to unsubscribe or change your settings on the mailing list
server. Subscription and unsubscription addresses are typically different from the
mail address that is used to send to the entire mailing list community. Sending
subscription and unsubscription requests to the mailing list posting address will meet
with no reply, and will probably result in angry replies from mailing list members
telling you to send to the proper address. Most mailing lists are run by
computer-automated commands, which means that you can subscribe and unsubscribe 24
hours a day, seven days a week.

End of Part I






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alex Jomarron <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Reno 200
Date: 17 Mar 1999 11:03:22 -0800 (PST)

Here's the website for the Reno 200 Dual Sport Run June 25-26.

http://rl.lemke.com/

Kurt Simpson and I are considering this......Oh what the hell, I'm
DOING it!!

AJ




==
Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL USA
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Chase Harper Tank Bags
Date: 17 Mar 1999 14:23:12 EST

In a message dated 3/16/99 10:44:40 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< How does the magnetic attachment perform?  I'm a little concerned that
 bouncing off road would bounce the bag off without any straps to secure it >>
The strongest magnetic tank bag I've ever used is the Marsee. The magnets are
so strong, if you leave the tank bag on the tank for more than a few days, it
causes crinkle patterns in the paint. It is well made and very durable, but
doesnt fit the KLR very well.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Chase Harper Tank Bags
Date: 17 Mar 1999 12:36:58 -0700

><< How does the magnetic attachment perform?  I'm a little concerned that
> bouncing off road would bounce the bag off without any straps to secure it
>>
>The strongest magnetic tank bag I've ever used is the Marsee. The magnets
are
>so strong, if you leave the tank bag on the tank for more than a few days,
it
>causes crinkle patterns in the paint. It is well made and very durable, but
>doesnt fit the KLR very well.


My Teknic tank bag is very secure and needs two hands to remove it.  I can
only see it coming off if:

1.  you put something crazy heavy in it - not a problem if you have
sunglasses, snacks and a camera etc....in your bag
2. you put it on so the magnetic base can catch air and fill up like a sail
sort of peeling it off - not likely but not impossible to do

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Chase Harper Tank Bags
Date: 17 Mar 1999 19:37:08 +0000

> The strongest magnetic tank bag I've ever used is the Marsee. The magnets are
> so strong, if you leave the tank bag on the tank for more than a few days, it
> causes crinkle patterns in the paint. It is well made and very durable, but
> doesnt fit the KLR very well.

I have to second the Marsee's strength. It works great on my CBR. But the plastic
tank on my KLR doesn't care for it very much...

Sarah

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Reprint of article MCN - Motorcycle Mailing Lists...Part II
Date: 17 Mar 1999 13:06:13 -0700


Motorcycle Mailing Lists: FAQ's & Answers
by LT Snyder March, 1999 (Reprinted with permission from Motorcycle Consumer News,
www.mcnews.com for subscription info)

Part II of IV

If you are ignorant of the ways of electronic mail lists, there are a few things you
need to get started. First, most motorcycle listservs have something called a FAQ-a
Frequently Asked Questions list. Access to this FAQ typically requires access to the
World Wide Web, so that you can go to the web page where the FAQ resides. However, if
you don't have internet access, some FAQs are available in e-mail format. This FAQ
consists of the collective memory of commonly asked questions to the list. Questions
like, "What is the best oil to put in the bike?", "What tires work the best on the
bike?" and "What jetting settings are recommended on the bike?" are pervasive on any
bike listserv. FAQs are designed to head off redundant questions and keep subscribers
from getting junk mail. Without a FAQ, bike lists have no collective memory and the
same topics continue to come up over and over.

There are many appealing facets of motorcycle listservs. On-line, you will find
friends who share not only a passion for the bike you own or the type of riding that
you do, but who also want to help you make your bike better and at the same time make
you a better rider. If you hang out on a list long enough, you will see the various
personalities behind the e-mail addresses and nicknames that abound on each list. You
may even find yourself making friends. At the very least, you will solve many
maintenance puzzles you face or find fixes to things you find unappealing about your
bike. Some mailing lists that charge fees for membership even have newsletters so that
you have something tangible to look at when you're not sitting at your computer.

Most mail lists offer two forms of subscription. The first is the standard
subscription whereby each message sent to the mailing list server is automatically
sent out to all the subscribers. The second form of subscription is called the digest
subscription. Digests are based either on a set number of messages or period of time.
Under a number-of-message setups, the digest option on the mailing list server gathers
messages from subscribers, puts them all together one after the other in one long
message, and sends out this composite e-mail to digest subscribers periodically.
Digest emails also have a long subject line recap at the beginning of the mailing
list, so that you can scroll down quickly to messages that may interest you. If you
are a first-time mailing list user, it is recommended that you subscribe under the
digest mode. Some lists generate hundreds of e-mails per day and can clog up your
in-box. Inexperienced subscribers continually crop up on mailing lists, and then try
frantically to unsubscribe by sending pleas to the entire list for unsubscription
guidelines.

Under the standard or normal mode of mailing list subscription, you will receive an
e-mail any time a subscriber sends one to the mailing list server. Traffic on most
listservs is heaviest in the evening, when most folks have the time to peruse the
internet. The truly dedicated flash out e-mails throughout the day while at the
office. In general, the listserv only sleeps late at night.
A word of caution on subscriptions is needed-do not subscribe to motorcycle mailing
lists using addresses other than your own or in such a way that you download messages
from computers that you yourself do not own. Your employer or friend may take offense
to having hundreds of e-mails turn up on their computers. Some lists generate hundreds
of messages each day, and can swamp unsuspecting subscribers. If you have your e-mail
through a world wide web site such as Netscape, then you may be able to sneak a look
at your e-mail throughout the day using somebody else's machine. Since the files
reside on the web server, you won't pollute your friend's or employer's hard drive
with e-mail files and attachments.

List Discipline

The toughest thing to master for mailing list neophytes is what is called "list
discipline." Listserv discipline means you must be aware that every word you type is
being read by everyone on the list. Some listservs have hundreds of subscribers, all
of whom dislike nothing more than irrelevant messages. You should keep your messages
short, to the point, and include only pertinent information. Not all readers want to
hear what kind of a weekend ride you had or what you ate for lunch. Part of this
discipline also means making the subject line of your message meaningful. The two
major parts of any e-mail message are the subject line and the body of the message.
Simply typing in "Help" in the subject line does little to inform readers what your
e-mail will be about. This is particularly important to digest mode subscribers,
because they browse the index of their digests.

Maintaining listserv discipline usually rests in the hands of a person called the
"majordomo" or ruler of the list. This person ensures that those transgressing the
rules of the list are kicked off. The majordomo also maintains the list by ensuring
that the server programs don't crash and that everyone is informed of list and
procedures. Listserv rules usually only forbid profanity and slander. Most other forms
of free expression are available. The majordomo's job is a thankless one. However it
usually instantly brings with it respect, because everyone's e-mail is in the hands of
this one person.

When sending e-mail to a listserv for the first time, introduce yourself and give the
reason why you joined the list. You will probably receive some personal e-mails
welcoming you. While new people view the list as an outlet for their thoughts and as
an opportunity to have questions asked, those experienced on the list cringe at the
sight of every new e-mail address. Every new person on the list means that the same
questions that have been answered a thousand times will be asked again. Most mailing
lists are very patient with new people however, and rarely does a cry for information
or help go unanswered.

Listserv Personalities

There are distinct categories of listserv personalities. It is important for a new
subscriber to recognize this, because the culture of any mailing list is based on the
personalities involved. You may wish to observe the culture of the list before you
actually post to it. A quick scan of a few digests will indicate the direction and
attitude of the listserv.

The first group of subscribers can be coined the "technical experts." Each list has a
group of experienced people who are reputed to know most things about the given list.
They have the names, phone numbers and web site locations for most of the relevant
vendors for a given list. These brave souls also assist people with problems, make
aftermarket product recommendations, and push the intellectual limits of the list with
innovative fixes or untested ideas. Technical experts even go so far as to design
products on occasion. Exotic exhausts and footpegs are a few of the engineering feats
of these would-be engineers.

End of Part II





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Reprint of article MCN - Motorcycle Mailing Lists...Part III
Date: 17 Mar 1999 13:07:21 -0700

Motorcycle Mailing Lists: FAQ's & Answers
by LT Snyder March, 1999 (Reprinted with permission from Motorcycle Consumer News,
www.mcnews.com for subscription info)

Part III of IV

Without technical experts and active majordomos the listserv wanders and gains no
knowledge. Technical experts also encourage "threads" to be maximized. A thread is a
discussion topic in a given issue. After opinions and constructive input are exhausted
on the topic, the technical experts make a mental note of the outcome and file it away
for future use. These experts also steer discussions away from trivial topics and try
to ensure that the list matures. This is a difficult feat because of the second type
of mailing list participant-the "newbie."

A newbie is a new person either new to a particular mailing or to e-mail in general.
He or she usually does not read the FAQ beforehand and barges into a list asking the
same old questions. The newbies are most destructive to any list because they have no
discipline. Questions that shouldn't be asked are asked and messages that should only
go to one individual are sent to the entire list. One-half of all newbies are gone in
the first month following subscription. Once they realize that their in-box is getting
flooded by messages that they can't fathom, they frantically try to sign off or change
to digest mode. While newbies constantly frustrate mainstay members of the mailing
list community, they are a necessity, for every experienced member of any mailing list
was once a newbie. Lists that are mature value newbies and try to convert them into
experienced participants. All it takes is one nasty comment to a newbie to turn him or
her away from a list. In doing so, a potential asset to the list may have been scared
off.

The frustrations caused by newbies can be somewhat alleviated by the third group of
subscribers-the "entertainers." The entertainers on any list are those that make quips
to amuse the other members. At their worst they are boring. At their best, they can
stimulate the list to new heights by putting some jocularity to technical discussions.
They also build a sense of community on any list by referring to past messages or by
scheduling get-togethers for the mailing
list, so that members can meet face to face. There is a subset of entertainers that
are a bit egotistical. They enjoy seeing their post plastered over the listserv and
enjoy the power that familiarity brings. Like most things, with listservs you have to
take the bad with the good. Some people you will like and some you will not.

The last type of mailing list member makes up what I call the "lurkers." The lurkers
are made up of two types of subscribers The first are those that try to milk the
listserv for pertinent information without giving any help to others. These people
sign on merely to get information on a bike that they desire or have just purchased.
The second type of subscriber in this category is one that is looking only to sell or
buy things on-line. Some have products that they manufacture and others just want to
unload some stock parts laying around in the garage. Both kinds of members offer
little to the list, and benefit from the work of the few that share a dedication to
the list community. It is sad but true that most mailing list members only read their
mail and perhaps send one or two messages to the list during their tenure on the
listserv. They are content to read the discussions to get ideas for their bikes or
scour messages looking for deals on parts. These types of members add little to the
list discussions, and deny the list their rich experiences. Some are shy and others
are just afraid to voice what they have to say for fear of being criticized. Whatever
the reason, they are an untapped asset on any mailing list.

Buying and Selling On-line

There is also one huge side-benefit of being part of a mailing list community- parts
and accessories for sale. During the course of any given day, most listservs present
subscribers with a veritable swapmeet of activity. Exhausts, clip-ons, tires, brake
lines, windscreens, seats and helmets change hands in a dizzying array of on-line
trading. To enter the fray you need only respond to somebody's ad on  the listserv or
post your own. There are a few guidelines in doing so. Because most active listserv
members check their e-mail once a day, you need to close deals quickly. If you have
questions about an advertised part or accessory, ask them of the person who offered it
for sale. If you are unsure whether the price is fair, check with a dealer or discount
house for the retail and wholesale price of the part. Some supposed deals on listservs
are not deals at all. If you are going to haggle on-line, trying to get the part for a
cheaper price, be advised that in doing so you may be counting yourself out. Parts and
accessories go quickly on-line. Those who are on digest-mode methods of subscription
probably will miss out on deals, because they only get digests daily.

Once you have agreed upon a price, the standard way of closing the deal is to send a
check or money order to the selling party. If you send a check, most people will wait
until it clears before sending you the part. Therefore, if you are in a hurry, send a
money order or a cashier's check. A word of caution is necessary here if you are
concerned about the condition of the part, confirm in your closing e-mail what your
perception is of the seller's part. The words "perfect condition" mean different
things to different people. If you are selling on-line, be clear and concise with your
ad. For instance, if you are selling a seat on the list, don't simply advertise it as
"seat for sale- $100." If you do, you get flooded with requests for information such
as seat type, condition, year, color, why you are selling it, and preferred method of
payment. A better message would have been "Stock seat, red, excellent condition, 1995,
bought after-market seat, $100, contact off list." The last part of the message is
particularly useful, because it asks you to spare the listserv with inquiries about
the seat and instead e-mail the sender directly. If you sell the part, notify the list
so that you won't receive any more inquiries.

Over the years, I have bought and sold hundreds of parts from listserv contacts, and
have never been burned by any unscrupulous people. While luck may be on my side, there
is also an unwritten code in buying and selling through a mailing list: Treat each
other fairly. A seller or buyer announces his or her wishes with regards to the part
and the list springs to action. Nothing wakes people up faster than the opportunity to
make a deal. And deals proliferate on mailing lists. You have only to request it, and
you will find it. The code in buying and selling on-line is vital in the process
because you typically send a check or money order to a person you have never met,
hoping that he or she will in turn send you the part as promised. This process is
based on integrity. The mailing list disciplines members who abuse the system with
ostracism, and offenders are kicked off the list. Tarnishing your reputation on-line
will typically follow you around as well, because most riders subscribe to multiple
lists.

End Part III





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Reprint of article MCN - Motorcycle Mailing Lists...Part IV of IV
Date: 17 Mar 1999 13:08:15 -0700

Motorcycle Mailing Lists: FAQ's & Answers
by LT Snyder March, 1999 (Reprinted with permission from Motorcycle Consumer News,
www.mcnews.com for subscription info)

Concluding Part IV of IV

Surviving on Mailing Lists

There are some things you can do to maximize your enjoyment on mail lists. First, find
out if the mailing list that you want to join has a web site. If it does, peruse the
information and read all that it holds. Pay particular attention to any FAQ online and
any listing of bike modifications. In general, look for any information that will save
you from asking unnecessary questions should you decide to join the mailing list.
Also, use internet search engines, such as Infoseek, Hotbot, Yahoo or Metacrawler for
information on the bike or type of riding that you want information on. The mailing
list should not be a crutch for lazy people seeking information. You will be a more
valued subscriber if you are well-informed. If you can't find any web site housing
information about the mailing list, ask the list for information once you join. The
odds are that even if the list doesn't have a formal web site, someone on the list has
a site with the information that you need.

Second, once you join the list use your words wisely. Avoid being overly wordy (like
my articles) or overly vague. The best messages make it clear what the sender intended
or implied. Having to send and resend parts of messages for clarification wastes
people's time and effort. If you have a question, it is best to send the question to
the specific person, rather than to the whole list. The listserv is not for
person-to-person conversations. Always ask the question, "Would most people be
interested in what I want to write?" The only exceptions are if you are selling
something, asking for help, or have a specific need whereby you are soliciting
information from a limited subset of the listserv population.

Third, do not send attachments to the list. If you have pictures that you want others
to view, find a way to put them on a web site or volunteer to send individuals the
attachments directly if they are interested. Some listservs will forward attachments
to everyone. Some members do not care to have these attachments show up on their
computers.

Fourth, if you are unsure if your message would be appropriate, send it to the
majordomo of the list and ask him or her whether it is appropriate. Most lists do not
accept unsolicited junk mail, such as from vendors. Advertisements or "spam" is
considered tacky on mailing lists. There are exceptions if vendors are valued members
themselves. Also, do not attack or "flame" a person in the list. Wars of words are
usually best discussed between combatants and should not be the forum of the list. If
you have a complaint against a particular company, it is acceptable to ask if others
have had similar experiences, but you should not attack the company with wars of
words. Remember, the e-mail world is a small place and the biker community an even
smaller microcosm of it. Your words will be remembered.

Finally, foster friendship on any list that you join. Your e-mail personality will
follow you through life. In my four years of subscribing, I have been on five
different lists. The resulting friendships that I have formed have resulted in a web
of contacts. Any question that I have, part that I need or reference I desire is
seldom more than an emessage away. I also try to serve as a resource for these same
friends. Assisting a fellow rider on-line is very satisfying for the soul. Saving
someone time and money is a large part of what motorcycle mailing lists are all about.
As bikers, we are a minority on the roads. Just as we should show courtesy on the
roads, so too should you show courtesy on-line. ~

RESOURCES

Mailing List Roundup http//www.micapeak.com/mailinglistroundup!

MSN/Hotmall
408) 222-7000
[e-mail]

Netscape
800) 411-0707
[e-mail]

Juno
800) JUNO-889
[e-mail]

LISTSERV ETIQUETTE

DO

Determine if you can handle the
amount of e-mails that a motorcycle
mailing list generates.

Look for information on the mailing
list (type of bike or type of riding) before
you subscribe.

Be concise and informative in your
e-mails to the listserv.

Ask yourself whether your e-mail will
interest most people on the list or only
a select few.

Be courteous and fair with those you
interact with on any list.

Try to add to the collective experience
of any listserv that you join.

DON'T

Waste people's time with irrelevant
e-mails.

Use profanity or abusive language on
any list.

Be unethical in your buying/selling
experiences on-line.

Merely use mailing lists as a way to
get information without giving anything
in return.

Be vague in what you are trying to say.

End of Article





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Reno 200...NKLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 15:10:17 -0500

At 05:38 AM 3/17/99 -0700, Kurt Simpson wrote:
>>The Reno 200 is looking very intriguing to me. I'm thinking of
>>delaying my Alaska departure to ride it.

>I'll do it with you...Vik and I are also signed up for the Kamloops thing,
but I know
>that you and Stuart will be laughing at us with that one...

When is the Kamloops thing?

I'm not laughing yet - I haven't met anyone from the list yet and am
wondering if all of you really exist.  The only hard evidence I've received
costs me money - Fred's shipments and Gino's newsletter.  Everything else
is pure ether and electrons.

Northbound I'll be passing through the upper plains between May 15 and 18,
then on to Dawson Creek.  Should make it to Prudhoe by June 2.

Southbound will pass throught the U.S. Northwest by mid August.  Will see
Helge Pedersen, then go on to Eureka in N. California, then east through
Susanville, Reno and Hwy 50.  If I feel up to any deep thought, I'll stop
by Jakeman's in Milford before going to Fred's in Moab in late August.
Fred, I'm a comin', one way or another.

Stuart
KLR A12
Juno Beach, Florida
"Land of the newly wed and nearly dead."



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Mission Failed
Date: 17 Mar 1999 15:13:30 -0500

At 08:08 AM 3/17/99 -0700, Skip Faulkner wrote:
>Well List, I appreciate the help many of you gave me in trying to find my
>wife a KLR, but the fates and my wife have conspired against me.

This means the title is in her name too?

Stuart




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mr. KTM" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KTM Owners Web Sites
Date: 17 Mar 1999 15:20:40 -0500

The KTM Owners Website has a new address:

http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Cliffs/5604

Please Bookmark for future reference, or if you've never been there, check
it out!

Mr. KTM
'96 RXC620




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Reno 200...NKLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 13:23:06 -0700


-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>I'm not laughing yet - I haven't met anyone from the list yet and am
>wondering if all of you really exist.  The only hard evidence I've received
>costs me money - Fred's shipments and Gino's newsletter.  Everything else
>is pure ether and electrons.<

> If I feel up to any deep thought, I'll stop
>by Jakeman's in Milford before going to Fred's in Moab in late August.
>Fred, I'm a comin', one way or another.
>
>Stuart

You are welcome here anytime.  Bring lots of money.  We are all figments of
your imagination.  <cue the Twilight Zone theme>

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Mission Failed
Date: 17 Mar 1999 12:43:02 -0800

My wife has not even learned to ride here first bike, the CT90 she bought
last week and she has already told me she wants an F650 next.  BMW must have
some real mojo marketing folks is all I can figure.
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Reno 200
Date: 17 Mar 1999 12:47:21 PST

Alex, Kurt,

Hope to see you at the Reno 200.  Any of you other Bay Area KL?
riders going?

Marick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "R. Kaub" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) OIL
Date: 17 Mar 1999 15:51:53

When I change the oil (and always the filter) on my '98, I put in 2.5 quarts.
Then I start the motor for a minute or so and then turn it off and let it
drain down.  This brings the oil level about 3/4ths up the sight glass.  I
then put in a couple more glugs until the oil reaches the top of the glass.
 This works out to 2.5 liters.  In my bike at least, the factory capacity
of 2.5 liters coincides with the top of the sight glass.  This makes my
life easy as I choose to believe the factory knows how much oil the motor
should hold.
BTW, I use Pennzoil 10w40 or 20w50 car oil, chunks and all.  It costs 82
cents a quart at (god forbid) WalMart.  I am not a bad person.  :-)  Thanks
Bob Kaub
State University of New York
PO Box 6000
Binghamton, NY  13902
607-777-2715



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) We be or not We be...NKLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 15:56:11 EST

    Fireball Stu writes:

>I haven't met anyone from the list yet and am wondering
>if all of you really exist. The only hard evidence I've
>received costs me money...

I've met a few of 'em Stu. Redondo and Hiro even gave me their
pictures for my wallet, (thanks guys). I realize that this doesn't
confirm their existence, but at least all it cost me was a few
beers. The tic that bugs me is the strong sense of deja vu I get
in their presence. Maybe it's all just a dream we dreamed one
afternoon long ago...

John O.  A10
Rolling Hills, CA



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) We be or not We be...NKLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 14:08:02 -0700

 Fireball Stu writes:

>I haven't met anyone from the list yet and am wondering
>if all of you really exist. The only hard evidence I've
>received costs me money...


I've met Kurt, Fred, Bill Haycock to name a few.  They are real.

By the way, it is a conspiracy amongst us list verterans to prod new comers
into spending as much money possible, especially through Fred Hink.  When
someone new signs on, we all make bets on how much money the new subscriber
will spend on their KLR within the first two weeks. The winner gets to spend
a weekend with one of Fred's calendar girls.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR: KTM mailing list
Date: 17 Mar 1999 16:20:30 -0500

you can hook up to it at http://www.ktm.com.au/riders/mailing.html
It's in Austrailian but I think we all have enough imagination to make sense
of it :)
Stephen Rivett




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) OIL
Date: 17 Mar 1999 14:48:41 -0700


>then put in a couple more glugs until the oil reaches the top of the glass.
> This works out to 2.5 liters.  In my bike at least, the factory capacity
>of 2.5 liters coincides with the top of the sight glass.

That is the crux of the controversy...Redondo reported the same experience...but I've
done it twice carfully and get the same results as Eldon...mine reaches the top of the
sight glass 8-10 ounces shy of 2.5 liters...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) We be or not We be...NKLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 17:26:56 -0500

At 02:08 PM 3/17/99 -0700, Pokluda, Gino F wrote:
>I've met Kurt, Fred, Bill Haycock to name a few.  They are real.

My email keeps reading that this is an established fact.

> When someone new signs on, we all make bets on how much money the new
subscriber
>will spend on their KLR within the first two weeks. The winner gets to spend
>a weekend with one of Fred's calendar girls.

In keeping with sexist nature of most motorcycle prizes, Fred has become
web-savvy lately, so maybe the real story is that the winner will get a
titillating .jpg from Arrowhead's offshore server.  Since it's only for a
weekend, the lucky person would have to send it back on Monday morning.
Might be rough, emotionally.  Tough to go from regular to synthetic, then
back again...

Fireball Stu

"My mother didn't breast feed me.  She said she liked me as a friend."
-Rodney Dangerfield





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Brian Schoonveld" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) drilling muffler
Date: 17 Mar 1999 17:26:02 -0500

Based on the muffler anatomy recently provided to the list (can't remember
by who),  I used a 10" long, 1/4" diameter drill bit and drilled one hole
directly down the throat of the muffler (thru the spark arrestor I believe),
then drilled 3 holes in a triangle pattern around the perimeter, going
through both walls.  Hard to tell, but it has to be breathing a little
better than before.  I can feel a pretty solid stream of exhaust when I put
a finger in front of one the perimeter holes I drilled and goose the
throttle.  Did not make much of difference to the noise level I was happy to
discover ........ the bike has just a little deeper throat to it now, and
more of a 'thwack thwack'  compared to stock sound.  I think it sounds
better now actually.   I'm thinking about increasing the diameter size of
the holes now ......... I'll report if something gets ugly.

Sure does take a long time to rack up 500 miles (breaking it in) in a city!
I'm only at 300 now, but my engine surely has 500 miles worth of revs by
now, sitting at stop lights!   My butt can still only take about an hour at
a time though ......... hope the seat gets softer or I get ....... well, you
know.  Think I'll go find a bigger drill bit.

Fred, I'm about to make you rich soon!

Brian Schoonveld
Indianapolis IN
A13






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) We be or not We be...NKLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 17:31:12 -0500

At 03:56 PM 3/17/99 -0500, [e-mail] wrote:
>I've met a few of 'em Stu. Redondo and Hiro even gave me their
>pictures for my wallet, (thanks guys).

John,

But if you guys are from LA, then it's all extremely suspicious.

Fireball Stu  (a Santa Monica -born refugee)

"Whom are you?" he asked, for he had been to night school.   -George Ade



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR - Oil level recommendations by Kawasaki
Date: 17 Mar 1999 18:03:47 -0500

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BE70A0.81094820
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

FWIW, I don't have a tech bulletin, but several months ago I wrote to =
Kawasaki to ask about the oil level discrepancy, thank them for the Kawi =
KLR luggage, and complain about my dealer.  The Kawasaki factory =
individual stated in writing to use the sight glass.  He also basically =
told me to go fly a kite as far as the dealer complaint :{

1)  Anyone EVER hear of someone seizing a 4-stroke under normal riding =
conditions? (No, thus supporting Gino's Crisco concept, although I stick =
with Golden Spectro because my shifting is noticeably smoother, and the =
engine is quieter (yes I know Tom))

2)  Anyone EVER hear of a racing team using car oil? (No, except for =
Valvoline, but I think they used bike-specific stuff)

3)  Anyone EVER hear of people riding with a steady, slow oil leak, the =
engine then lasting 60,000 miles+ (fixed oil leak or not)?  (Yes, =
therefore, what is this concern with oil level?)

Keep some oil in the engine, try to change the oil and filter as often =
as you can, and enjoy your bike until it blows up!!! :)

Don't reply to me, I'm not here to argue, this is me sharing what I have =
learned, and my opinion.

Eric J

------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BE70A0.81094820
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1700"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>FWIW, I don't have a tech bulletin, =
but several=20
months ago I wrote to Kawasaki to ask about the oil level discrepancy, =
thank=20
them for the Kawi KLR luggage, and complain about my dealer.  The =
Kawasaki=20
factory individual stated in writing to use the sight glass.  He =
also=20
basically told me to go fly a kite as far as the dealer complaint=20
:{</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>1)  Anyone EVER hear of someone seizing a =
4-stroke under=20
normal riding conditions? (No, thus supporting Gino's Crisco concept, =
although I=20
stick with Golden Spectro because my shifting is noticeably smoother, =
and the=20
engine is quieter (yes I know Tom))</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>2)  Anyone EVER hear of a racing team using car =
oil? (No,=20
except for Valvoline, but I think they used bike-specific =
stuff)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>3)  Anyone EVER hear of people riding with a =
steady, slow=20
oil leak, the engine then lasting 60,000 miles+ (fixed oil leak or =
not)? =20
(Yes, therefore, what is this concern with oil level?)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Keep some oil in the engine, try to =
change the=20
oil and filter as often as you can, and enjoy your bike until it blows =
up!!!=20
:)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Don't reply to me, I'm not here to =
argue, this=20
is me sharing what I have learned, and my opinion.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Eric J</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BE70A0.81094820--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR - Oil level recommendations by Kawasaki
Date: 17 Mar 1999 16:40:28 -0700




    Yeah me. According to MCN, when their guys were poking around
Daytona they caught the Harley racing team pouring Mobil 1( the =
automotive
variety) down the gullet of one of their bikes at the track. [Bogdan =
Swider]
Yes I know they have a separate gearbox; so what?
>       2)=A0 Anyone EVER hear of a racing team using car oil? (No, =
except for
> Valvoline, but I think they used bike-specific stuff)
> =A0



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Blue Moon
Date: 17 Mar 1999 16:44:52 -0700

For the first time in along time I now have both the KLR Base Manuals and
the KLR Supplement Manuals in stock at the same time.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR - Oil level recommendations by Kawasaki
Date: 18 Mar 1999 00:17:52 -0000

MY LOCAL DEALER ADVISED NOT TO USE CAR OIL BECAUSE OF THE WET CLUTCH IN THE
KLR (AUTOMOTIVE OILS TEND TO CAUSE THE CLUTCH TO SLIP).

IT MADE SENSE AND I WASN'T PREPARED TO RISK CAUSING DAMAGE.  MAYBE HE WAS
JUST SPINNING A LINE TO GET ME TO BUY THEIR PRODUCT.


GREIG,
RIDE AND BE SEEN!





    Yeah me. According to MCN, when their guys were poking around
Daytona they caught the Harley racing team pouring Mobil 1( the automotive
variety) down the gullet of one of their bikes at the track. [Bogdan Swider]
Yes I know they have a separate gearbox; so what?
>       2)  Anyone EVER hear of a racing team using car oil? (No, except for
> Valvoline, but I think they used bike-specific stuff)
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) We be or not We be...NKLR
Date: 17 Mar 1999 20:12:02 -0500

-----Original Message-----
>...  When
>someone new signs on, we all make bets on how much money the new subscriber
>will spend on their KLR within the first two weeks. The winner gets to spend
>a weekend with one of Fred's calendar girls.


Dang, I might already be a winner...

I've come pretty close to spending as much on goodies and parts as I paid
for my A2.  Today I was brake day.  I found that I needed the little rubber
boots that protect the pistons in the caliper.  Price $11.00 for the front
and $8.66 for the rear, at two different Kawa dealers.

Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) We be or not We be...NKLR
Date: 18 Mar 1999 01:39:17 -0000

I've only joined this week, thanks to Steve in Wisconsin.  I ride an A1,
which is in pretty good condition, but the rear shock will need attention
some time in the future so I've been reading recent messages on this topic
with vested interest (especially since a new Kawa assembly is so damn
expensive).

Would also like to get braided front brake line, centre stand, moose skid
plate....  it's probably lucky for me (my wallet, that is) that I live Down
Under and can't just rush out and buy all the things I've discovered on this
list and other KLR sites (My local Dealer can't help and I haven't
researched yet whether there are any other sources in Australia).

Greig,
RIDE AND BE SEEN!




-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 1999 12:12 PM


-----Original Message-----
>...  When
>someone new signs on, we all make bets on how much money the new subscriber
>will spend on their KLR within the first two weeks. The winner gets to
spend
>a weekend with one of Fred's calendar girls.


Dang, I might already be a winner...

I've come pretty close to spending as much on goodies and parts as I paid
for my A2.  Today I was brake day.  I found that I needed the little rubber
boots that protect the pistons in the caliper.  Price $11.00 for the front
and $8.66 for the rear, at two different Kawa dealers.

Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: don roger <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) The Taylor-Roger circuit breaker mod
Date: 17 Mar 1999 20:42:49 -0500


This is the mod worked out by my building on Jake Taylor's good idea. He =
was my inspiration, and now my hero :)

Briefly, I put two thermal-resettable circuit breakers of the type that =
fit into blade type fuseholders in SERIES with the existing fuse block =
by disconnecting the wiring at the "bullet" connectors just at the fuse =
block.

To make the breakers easier to access, I found they would fit in the =
tool box if I scrunched the tool bag all the way over to one side. I =
chose to put the pair of breakers ( in in-line fuseholders) in the right =
corner of the tool box. I drilled a hole in the tool box and a matching =
hole in the wall of the tool-box cavity in the rear fender. I fed the =
wires over to the original fuse block area, and plugged them into their =
respective bullet/receptacle connections. . I then replaced the existing =
fuses with 35 amp fuses to make sure they wouldn't go at or before a =
circuit breaker kicked off.

That's the concept overview.  The parts were all available at my local =
auto-parts store (Canadian Tire for my fellow Canadians) =20

qty 2 blade-type in-line fuseholders
qty 1 20 amp thermal-reset circuit breaker designed to fit into the =
above fuseholder
qty 1 10 amp thermal-reset circuit breaker designed to fit into the =
above fuseholder
"bullets" and mating receptacles sized to fit the Kawa stuff crimp-type
qty 4 butt connectors crimp-type
wire as-required. 16 ga, 14 ga  - about 6'  of each.
Suitable grommets to protect the wires from the edges of the holes.
Stretchy plastic tape, as-used to wrap leaky water pipes and make =
emergency repairs to water hoses on cars. (better than electrical tape =
for the application, I used it to make a "loom" of the 4 wires coming =
out of the tool box)

Tools needed are wire strippers,  crimping tool, drill or dremel tool =
for making the holes (I took out the tool box and used a drill to make a =
hole in it, then used a dremel tool to cut the hole in the fender).=20

Make sure you put the right circuit breaker in the right circuit, and =
match the wire gauges correctly!

Now I can get at the breakers if I ever need to without having to do the =
whole side panels and seat removal trick.=20
If I ever find I don't like it, I can just unplug it, pull out the =
wiring, REPLACE THE BIG FUSES, and reconnect the stock wires. It would =
probably be nice to cover the holes at the tool box too.

We can do the lecture-and-slide-show thing for your group if you like =
(expenses plus); book through Jake Taylor.

Don "Its not plagiarism if you admire the person whose idea you stole" =
Roger




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: don roger <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Shift lever won't grab onto shift-shaft
Date: 17 Mar 1999 20:52:40 -0500

After reading the previous notes on this problem, my opinion FWIW, after =
owning a few "beater" bikes is that it is RARE that the shift shaft =
itself is badly worn. They are usually very hard, and the shift lever by =
design is very soft.=20

Although the "clamp it and resaw the slot" fix may work, I recommend a =
brand-new shift lever; OEM or aftermarket, your choice: as the wear on =
the splines of the lever will have rounded them off and made the =
likelihood of recurrence much stronger than if you go whole hog and =
spring for a new lever. =20

BTW - I found a Honda XL200r lever has the same spline and worked in a =
pinch (with a little bending)

Don Roger  AKA "Roger the Bodger"  (ask your Brit friends about it!)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) rear shock leak
Date: 17 Mar 1999 20:37:56 EST

I have determined that the oil leak is coming from the rear shock. Enough has
leaked out now that the bike is real "spongy" or whatever.

Does this require a new shock, if so, is there someone that has experience in
changing it out to talk me through it, or is this something better left to the
experts?

What is the price of a new shock?

Thanks,

Doug.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) rear shock leak
Date: 17 Mar 1999 20:03:43 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>I have determined that the oil leak is coming from the rear shock. Enough
has
>leaked out now that the bike is real "spongy" or whatever.
>
>Does this require a new shock, if so, is there someone that has experience
in
>changing it out to talk me through it, or is this something better left to
the
>experts?
>
>What is the price of a new shock?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Doug.
>
>

I sell Progressive Suspension shocks for $420.  You can read about them at:
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page59.html

Installing the shock is pretty easy.  Almost the same procedure as
installing the lowering links and you can read about this at:
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page83.html

Good luck.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR - Oil level repost NO MIME this time! and an NKLR message...;)
Date: 17 Mar 1999 20:51:53 -0000

I have already received responses to my previous posting, although I
requested y'all to not do so regarding this posting.  My numbered
"questions" and "answers" were intended to get everyone to think for
themselves about the oil topic.

I offer the following to try to keep in mind....

Ask a question
Provide an answer.
Share your experience.
Share your knowledge.
Lend a helping hand.
Humor is always beneficial.
Play nice!!!

Anyway, here is a repost of my earlier mime-mess in a much nicer text-mess
format.

FWIW, I don't have a tech bulletin, but several months ago I wrote to
Kawasaki to ask about the oil level discrepancy, thank them for the Kawi KLR
luggage, and complain about my dealer.  The Kawasaki factory individual
stated in writing to use the sight glass.  He also basically told me to go
fly a kite as far as the dealer complaint :{

1)  Anyone EVER hear of someone seizing a 4-stroke under normal riding
conditions? (No, thus supporting Gino's Crisco concept, although I stick
with Golden Spectro because my shifting is noticeably smoother, and the
engine is quieter (yes I know Tom))

2)  Anyone EVER hear of a racing team using car oil? (No, except for
Valvoline, but I think they used bike-specific stuff)

3)  Anyone EVER hear of people riding with a steady, slow oil leak, the
engine then lasting 60,000 miles+ (fixed oil leak or not)?  (Yes, therefore,
what is this concern with oil level?)

Keep some oil in the engine, try to change the oil and filter as often as
you can, and enjoy your bike until it blows up!!! :)

Don't reply to me, I'm not here to argue, this is me sharing what I have
learned, and my opinion.

Eric J





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Hirofumi A. Watanabe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) - Hiro
Date: 17 Mar 1999 20:55:50 -0700

In a message dated 3/17/99 8:28:32 PM, [e-mail] writes:

>Hiro - are you the same Hiro Watanabe listed in the
>credits for Adobe Illustrator?

Mary, I have lost face. I hang my head in shame. You have exposed
my dark family secret. I am Hirofumi Watanabe. My twin brother is
Hirosumi Watanabe. He is the evil one who forces the artists of
the world into indentured servitude by requiring them to upgrade
on a quarterly basis to his latest version. To add insult to injury
I am forced to go to strangers as my own brother makes me pay
full retail!

Hirofumi A. Watanabe A10 'Thunderbolt'

"They've summoned up a Thundercloud. They're gonna hear from me."




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Shift lever won't grab onto shift-shaft
Date: 17 Mar 1999 22:24:46 EST

In a message dated 3/17/99 7:57:33 PM Central Standard Time, ddroger@travel-
net.com writes:

<< Although the "clamp it and resaw the slot" fix may work, I recommend a
brand-new shift lever; OEM or aftermarket, your choice: as the wear on the
splines of the lever will have rounded them off and made the likelihood of
recurrence much stronger than if you go whole hog and spring for a new lever.
 >>
Dear Rodger Dodger, I agree that a new shift lever is the best option, the
shaft is a lot harder than the lever, I was just thinking of the times I had
to make a reasonably clean repair on shafts where they were really buggered up
from vice grip lever mods etc. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Oil level
Date: 17 Mar 1999 20:05:09 PST

When you guys speak of filling the oil until it reaches the top of
the sight glass (and, for some of you, beyond) are you judging this
when the bike/oil are cold or hot?  In my experience, the oil level
rises significantly when hot.  Maybe this only happens in KLX's, but
I doubt it.

Marick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) April Moab Rally...
Date: 17 Mar 1999 21:20:20 -0700

A few of us diehards are thinking of gathering in Moab at the same time as last
year's dual sport rally for some spring riding and the way cool car show that parades
up and down the main drag on Saturday night April 24th...So, it might be that we
would be in the area from April 22-25th. Give me a hey if you're interested...

Kurt
Salt Lake City




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) - Hiro
Date: 17 Mar 1999 21:24:02 -0700

Hiro, long time no "hear" , glad that you are surfacing at about the time of the
spring industry announcements. I hope your scoop this year is a little more spot on
than last....

Kurt





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (NKLR) DR650 list? - Hiro
Date: 17 Mar 1999 21:27:36 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Does anyone know of a list for the Suzuki DR650, or has anyone ever owned one and
how
>does it compare to the KLR?
>
>Hiro - are you the same Hiro Watanabe listed in the credits for Adobe Illustrator?
>
>Mary
>95 KLR650
>92 KLR650
>89 NX250


Mary, no list for the DR650 only its little brother/sister. Gino has done a report on
it in DSN, you can write him for the back issue. Basically he said it is a slick bike
since its total redesign in '96...don't look at anything earlier. Smooth engine,
great transmission, great gearing, good seat height, much better in the dirt...but,
not nearly the comfort on the highway in the seat. Also lacking in the fuel tank but
there are aftermarket options. Obe Wan has some beautiful new purple side protectors
for it...

Kurt
Salt Lake City




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
Date: 17 Mar 1999 21:29:39 -0700

>If this works, I think it would be beneficial as well as neat to see how
>muck "stuff" ends up being stuck to the magnet at my first oil change.
>
>Arne - who believes that a day without sunshine is, well... night.


How about the magnetic drain plug that Fred has...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil level
Date: 17 Mar 1999 21:31:20 -0700



>When you guys speak of filling the oil until it reaches the top of
>the sight glass (and, for some of you, beyond) are you judging this
>when the bike/oil are cold or hot?  In my experience, the oil level
>rises significantly when hot.  Maybe this only happens in KLX's, but
>I doubt it.
>
>Marick


I'm so hot for you...I'm so hot for you...I'm so hot for you and you're so cold....!

Kurt (always check when cold, cold, cold)
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Bike Breakin Period
Date: 17 Mar 1999 23:38:52 -0500

I see Arne is trying to break in his bike...but what is the best way to do
it?  I've never owned a new vehicle before so I have no idea what is needed
to be done.

As for putting a magnet on the oil filter, I wouldn't suggest using one
strong enough to make any filings tear their way through the paper.  Also,
is the pressure relief valve metal or plastic?  A magnet may pull it open
which would be bad news.

Stephen Rivett, I may not have the answers but I've definately got the right
questions most of the time.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Its all your fault
Date: 17 Mar 1999 21:50:42 -0800

I just want to say I have thought about this a lot and I am very angry [=)].

In my garage is a '99 Suzuki GS500 - in pieces.  Parts everywhere - there
are note scribbled on bits of paper, catalogues sitting open to shiny bits,
a whole white board dedicated to how I am going to pay Fred for the parts I
need.

Japanese engineers have spent years perfecting this design and am being
forced to mess up their hard work.  I have no choice this list has made me a
tinkering junkie.  If I had just bought my KLR and not found the KLR
homepage I would be the happy owner of a totally stock KLR650, I wouldn't
have a super trapp pipe, acerbis this, MSR that....I wouldn't day dream
about aluminum boxes.

Now you might ask why I don't just unsubscribe from the list and join a
local ten step program?  Well I am a forgiving and understanding guy...I
realize that you my fellow list members are the ones that need help....yes
you need to accept responsibility for your misdeeds in order to start down
the road to recovery.

How you may ask can you do that?  I will tell you - send me a cheque for
$50.00US. This small sum can save you.  It can bring you back from the brink
of doom - not to mention pay off my master card.

Since I have that off my chest I was just wondering if anyone has installed
HUD night vision setup on their bike?..=)

Cheers,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
Date: 17 Mar 1999 21:02:24 -0800

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>>If this works, I think it would be beneficial as well as neat to see how
>>muck "stuff" ends up being stuck to the magnet at my first oil change.
>>
>>Arne - who believes that a day without sunshine is, well... night.
>
>
>How about the magnetic drain plug that Fred has...
>
>Kurt

That would work too of coarse.  I used one in my '74 Nova.  But I don't
think it's as powerful as this one that I have.  So are you saying that you
don't think it would work?

BTW, what kind of oil does Kawasaki put in from the factory?  Is it a
special kind of break-in oil?  I'm thinking of dumping it even though it's
new and putting in fresh.  I won't use synthetic at this point though - I've
heard that you shouldn't use it during the break-in period of a motor.
Sorry I can't remember where I heard that from.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Bike Breakin Period
Date: 17 Mar 1999 21:07:51 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>As for putting a magnet on the oil filter, I wouldn't suggest using one
>strong enough to make any filings tear their way through the paper.

I like this point.  I wouldn't like it if it happened, but at this stage I
do.  Does the oil filter from the inside out, or outside in?  I think it is
the latter no?  If this is the case, then all should be O.K.

Arne - "Quantum Mechanics" - the dreams stuff is made of...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Its all your fault
Date: 18 Mar 1999 00:06:46 -0500

Hate to say it, but it's the nature of a Japanese bike...everything is a
compromise.  If you wanted a bike that was set up perfectly you would have
had to get a KTM 640 Adventure, they are from Austria and cost about the
same price as a KLR650 that has every addon possible.  I'm torn between that
bike and the KLR650 :(

Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----
>Japanese engineers have spent years perfecting this design and am being
>forced to mess up their hard work.  I have no choice this list has made me
a
>tinkering junkie.  If I had just bought my KLR and not found the KLR
>homepage I would be the happy owner of a totally stock KLR650, I wouldn't
>have a super trapp pipe, acerbis this, MSR that....I wouldn't day dream
>about aluminum boxes.
>Cheers,
>
>Vik
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: (dr350) April Moab Rally...
Date: 17 Mar 1999 23:57:40 EST

In a message dated 3/17/99 9:20:06 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< A few of us diehards are thinking of gathering in Moab at the same time as
last
 year's dual sport rally for some spring riding and the way cool car show that
parades
 up and down the main drag on Saturday night April 24th...So, it might be that
we
 would be in the area from April 22-25th. Give me a hey if you're interested.
>>

Oh that sounds way too tempting.  It would have to be a blitz trip for me. I
might even, God forbid, tow my bike(DR350)!  It would be a great inagural dual
sport ride for my bone stock DR350SE.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Bike Breakin Period
Date: 18 Mar 1999 00:12:40 -0500

I believe the oil goes through the pump and gets forced into the centre
where it either goes through the paper or relief valve.  oh yeah, Wix oil
filters are made by Dana, the same company that makes Spicer axles.

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>

>I like this point.  I wouldn't like it if it happened, but at this stage I
>do.  Does the oil filter from the inside out, or outside in?  I think it is
>the latter no?  If this is the case, then all should be O.K.
>
>Arne - "Quantum Mechanics" - the dreams stuff is made of...
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Its all your fault
Date: 17 Mar 1999 22:35:43 -0800

Well actually I disagree.  If we got 20 lister together and gave them bone
stock KLR's or whatever and $100,000 to modify them...after the dust settled
you'd end up with 20 different bikes.  The KTM is a great bike in some
respects, but I think the rusty old KLR would still be a better bike for
those DS trips where you have to cover a lot of road miles.  Of course with
a corbin saddle, avon gripsters, wide ratio transmission and some gel grips
the KTM might be just as good...=)

There is no perfect bike for all people.  Just a lot of pretty good bikes
and Fred to help you perfect them.

Cheers,

Vik

-----Original Message-----


>Hate to say it, but it's the nature of a Japanese bike...everything is a
>compromise.  If you wanted a bike that was set up perfectly you would have
>had to get a KTM 640 Adventure, they are from Austria and cost about the
>same price as a KLR650 that has every addon possible.  I'm torn between
that
>bike and the KLR650 :(





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Auto Oils in the Bike
Date: 17 Mar 1999 22:35:52 -0700

>Rotella is now SJ rated. I have been know to use it in my bikes though as I
>had the assumption that diesel oils were better due to the higher
>compression of diesel engines. I'll typically cut in 1.6qt of Rotella with
>1qt Yamalube.
>Another thing I use SG motor oil for cars. You can find it on the shelves
>at grocery stores because nobody buys motor oil at the grocer. These cans
>have been sitting there since 1994-96 and are dusty. Does anyone know if
>shelflife is a concern?
>Mark
>B2
>A2


Rotella T is SJ rated, but has a zinc (phos) %content of .14%, which is
higher than the regular automotive SJ oils. You`ll also find the SH`s at the
grocery stores.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Mission Failed
Date: 17 Mar 1999 23:32:47 -0700




>Dude, I hope you are kidding. Don't get me wrong, I love my new 99, but a
KLR
>can't keep you warm at night. Well, ah, actually I suppose it could, if you
left
>it running and vented the exhaust properly. Anyway, give the woman some
credit,
>at least she likes motorcycles.
>Rob


Sorry pard`, I don`t know how to kid. Also, she doesn`t like motorcycles,
she just doesn`t want me going off and having fun by myself.


Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR - Oil level repost NO MIME this time! and an NKLR message...;)
Date: 17 Mar 1999 23:41:22 -0700


>2)  Anyone EVER hear of a racing team using car oil? (No, except for
>Valvoline, but I think they used bike-specific stuff)
>
Eric J.

Yes. Mobil One has been used by several. Also keep in mind that each bike
manufacturer has their own oil and will advertise that their teams use it.
Do you actually think they`d use someone elses oil, even if it was better?


Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Mission Failed
Date: 17 Mar 1999 23:43:37 -0700




>At 08:08 AM 3/17/99 -0700, Skip Faulkner wrote:
>>Well List, I appreciate the help many of you gave me in trying to find my
>>wife a KLR, but the fates and my wife have conspired against me.
>
>This means the title is in her name too?
>
>Stuart
>

Are you kidding? I`ll get the bike in the divorce and sell it!

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Tire/Exhaust Rubbing
Date: 18 Mar 1999 01:01:07

Yikes!

Maybe the lowering links are too good to be true!  I've got a Metzler
Metronic 55A on the back of my machine and it has apparently been coming in
contact with the Cobra ISDE exhaust since the lowering links were
installed.  Not enough to leave abundant rubber on the pipe but enough to
glaze the outside 3/8" of tread on the tire. I've never felt/heard it rub
but the clearance can't be much more than 3/4" sitting still with most of
my weight (190#) on the saddle.

The Metzler is 130/90 as opposed to the stock 130/80 size so by my
calculation that means it would be ~26 mm taller than the Dunlop that came
on the bike.  (I've been told that comparing the aspect ratios of different
tire manufacturers is like comparing apples to oranges, but I gotta start
somewhere.)

I'm thinking my options are:

1) remove lowering links (But I like 'em!)

2) change tire to 130/80 (Will this increase clearance sufficiently?)

3) longer shock (Are the Progressive or DP Works longer than the stocker?
Would this neutralize the benefits of the lowering links?)

Your assistance in thinking this through would be greatly appreciated as I
think this constitutes an unsafe condition and will thereby render me a
cager under it's remedied.

Yours,

Guy











-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Its all your fault/KTM Adventure
Date: 18 Mar 1999 00:14:47 -0800

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>Well actually I disagree.  If we got 20 lister together and gave them bone
>stock KLR's or whatever and $100,000 to modify them...after the dust
settled
>you'd end up with 20 different bikes.

Actually, I think it would be closer to 200 bikes.  You can't tell me that
you'd just settle for one???


>>If you wanted a bike that was set up perfectly you would have
>>had to get a KTM 640 Adventure, they are from Austria and cost about the
>>same price as a KLR650 that has every addon possible.  I'm torn between
>>that bike and the KLR650 :(

Hey Steven, I have been exactly where you are.  Well, not quite, I'm over
here... but believe it or not, I too was at a stage where I was trying to
decide on which bike to get.  The fact that the Adventure is not available
and licensable in Canada kinda stroked it off my list.  But even if it were
available, unless I was going to be riding 60% challenging off-road (what
the bike's made for), and only 40% street (what it's not really made for), I
believe the better choice to be the KLR.  The KTM is a beautiful, imposing,
awesome looking machine - but it's a dirt bike under it's shell.  This is a
good thing if you intend to spend most of your time in the dirt, but the
reviews I've read say that any distance on the street is compromised.  And
for me, being comfortable on the street was important.  Like Vik was saying,
I'm sure with a corbin saddle, gel grips, and bar-end weights you could
improve things - but then you're spending even more money.

Happy hunting,

Arne - a conclusion is the place where you get tired of thinking




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Bike Breakin Period
Date: 18 Mar 1999 19:17:50 +1000

Arne Larsen wrote:

[...]
> do.  Does the oil filter from the inside out, or outside in?  I think it is
> the latter no?  If this is the case, then all should be O.K.

>From outside in.
During the running-in period, you'll see bits of metal and stuff
on the outside of the filter after you let it drain a bit. I did.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR - Oil level repost NO MIME this time! and an NKLR message...;)
Date: 18 Mar 1999 19:09:18 +1000

Skip Faulkner wrote:

[...]
> Do you actually think they`d use someone elses oil, even if it was better?

Yes, but they wouldn't tell anyone where it comes from.
If the bike companies have their own brand oil, then it will be
someone else's inside, maybe to a _slightly_ different spec to the
supplier's own brand.
I don't expect the bike companines to have their own oil refineries.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Bike Breakin Period
Date: 18 Mar 1999 00:29:15 -0800

Alright, so then based on this, there should not be any metal on the inside
of the filter that could get pulled through from the inside out.  This is
good.

Arne

-----Original Message-----


>Arne Larsen wrote:
>
>[...]
>> do.  Does the oil filter from the inside out, or outside in?  I think it
is
>> the latter no?  If this is the case, then all should be O.K.
>
>>From outside in.
>During the running-in period, you'll see bits of metal and stuff
>on the outside of the filter after you let it drain a bit. I did.
>
>Mister_T
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tire/Exhaust Rubbing
Date: 18 Mar 1999 19:43:12 +1000

Guy Cheney wrote:

> Maybe the lowering links are too good to be true!  I've got a Metzler
> Metronic 55A on the back of my machine and it has apparently been coming in
> contact with the Cobra ISDE exhaust since the lowering links were
> installed.

Sounds like a crap design exhaust to me.
If that's what it does with a smooth treaded and slightly taller
than stock road tyre, what would it do with a true knobby tyre fitted
with a stock link at full bump travel?

> The Metzler is 130/90 as opposed to the stock 130/80 size so by my
> calculation that means it would be ~26 mm taller than the Dunlop that came
> on the bike.  (I've been told that comparing the aspect ratios of different
> tire manufacturers is like comparing apples to oranges, but I gotta start
> somewhere.)

True, but why did you get the 130/90 in the first place?

> I'm thinking my options are:
>
> 1) remove lowering links (But I like 'em!)

One way, but there still may be some contact at full bump travel.

> 2) change tire to 130/80 (Will this increase clearance sufficiently?)

With a theoretical 13mm smaller section height, it might be enough.
You're in a better position to judge that.

> 3) longer shock (Are the Progressive or DP Works longer than the stocker?
> Would this neutralize the benefits of the lowering links?)

Yes it would.

> Your assistance in thinking this through would be greatly appreciated as I
> think this constitutes an unsafe condition and will thereby render me a
> cager under it's remedied.

Is there some chance to space the exhaust away from the subframe
and hence rear wheel without hitting sidecover?

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tire/Exhaust Rubbing
Date: 18 Mar 1999 04:13:22 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 8:42:39 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
[e-mail] writes:

<< s there some chance to space the exhaust away from the subframe
 and hence rear wheel without hitting sidecover? >>
That is what I did and I run a Dunlop D905 140/80  no lowering link and no
rubs on the exhaust a full compression.
Been there done that
Larry



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bill Wright <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Side scoops...
Date: 18 Mar 1999 07:09:34 -0500

Kurt Simpson wrote:

> I saw Allan Parker's radiator shroud after he fell sideways on a big boulder..not a
> pretty sight, also destroyed his fan...Obe Wan's new radiator guard will help that on
> the left side....otherwise, Aerostitch Tank Panniers may help depending on what is
> loaded in them...
>

Obe Wan?  Is this Obe Wan Ginobe?

Bill Wright
Hotlanta, GA.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) RE: Magnets in Oil
Date: 18 Mar 1999 07:58:34 -0500

For what it is worth, I purchased the magnetic oil filter plug for the KLR and
have been very disappointed.  The magnet is VERY Very weak.  When I change my
oil, there is a tiny bit of metal 'dust' on the plug but that's it.

Now on the other hand, I also have the stainless steel oil filter.  It seems to
grab every bit of crud living in the oil (which may be why the magnetic oil
plug is so clean).  The other plus to the stainless steel oil filter is I don't
need any parts to change my oil.  Just clean the filter and re-install.

My 2 cents: Don't buy the plug.  Buy the stainless steel oil filter.

And I would also recommend AGAINST putting any 'homebrew' magnets in the oil
filter.  Tons of motorcycles have run zillions of miles without taking in added
risk of the magnet falling into the motor.  Arne, your bike will not be an
exception and will run forever without the filter magnet.

As the other lister said, "Ride it 'till it blows up".
Pat
Austin, Texas
1997 KLR650 w/11K miles




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Al Silberstein" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) unsubsribe
Date: 18 Mar 1999 08:34:42 -0600

unsubsribe



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) unsubscribe
Date: 18 Mar 1999 09:40:37 EST

unsubscribe



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Magnets in Oil
Date: 18 Mar 1999 07:47:59 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>For what it is worth, I purchased the magnetic oil filter plug for the KLR
and
>have been very disappointed.  The magnet is VERY Very weak.  When I change
my
>oil, there is a tiny bit of metal 'dust' on the plug but that's it.
>
>Now on the other hand, I also have the stainless steel oil filter.  It
seems to
>grab every bit of crud living in the oil (which may be why the magnetic oil
>plug is so clean).  The other plus to the stainless steel oil filter is I
don't
>need any parts to change my oil.  Just clean the filter and re-install.
>
>My 2 cents: Don't buy the plug.  Buy the stainless steel oil filter.
>
>And I would also recommend AGAINST putting any 'homebrew' magnets in the
oil
>filter.  Tons of motorcycles have run zillions of miles without taking in
added
>risk of the magnet falling into the motor.  Arne, your bike will not be an
>exception and will run forever without the filter magnet.
>
>As the other lister said, "Ride it 'till it blows up".
>Pat
>Austin, Texas
>1997 KLR650 w/11K miles
>
>
>

Pat,

I fear to tell you that your magnetic drain plug is doing it's job.  You
should only see metal bits in your filter that are left over from the
machining of your new engine.  The only shiney metal bits that you will see
in your filter are hopefully aluminum and not able to be trapped by the
magnet.  After the first original oil change and maybe the second, you
should not see any larger shiney bits.  The gray or black dust is the iron
particles that have worn away from bearings and rings, etc.  If you were to
see larger bits held by the magnet then I would say you are on your way to a
serious major melt down.  I don't know why they don't put in a stronger
magnet in the drain plug, but every one I have ever changed has the same
dark dust stuck to it so they must be doing their job.  Did you really want
to see parts of springs, bits of rings and bearings stuck to your magnet?

I wouldn't put a magnet in with the oil filter either.  You take a chance of
wearing a hole through the element and we all know what that means.

Fred (and of course this is all just my opinion like always)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Magnets in Oil
Date: 18 Mar 1999 10:00:03 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 7:00:03 AM Central Standard Time, PAT_HENSLEY@HP-
USA-om32.om.hp.com writes:

<< And I would also recommend AGAINST putting any 'homebrew' magnets in the
oil
 filter.   >>
I agree Pat, I saw a lost nut, that fell down the cam chain tunnel destroy a
whole engine. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
Date: 18 Mar 1999 10:34:24 -0500

>Arne wrote:
>
>BTW, what kind of oil does Kawasaki put in from the factory?  Is it a
>special kind of break-in oil?  I'm thinking of dumping it even though it's
>new and putting in fresh.  I won't use synthetic at this point though - I've
>heard that you shouldn't use it during the break-in period of a motor.
>Sorry I can't remember where I heard that from.
>

Hey Skip,
Don't aircraft piston engines use "straight mineral" non-detergent oil for
the first 50 or 100hrs? Can you give us the skinny on this?
Thanks,
Mark





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (dr350) April Moab Rally...
Date: 18 Mar 1999 08:42:16 -0700

I am going with some buddies. Taking the KLX & RS435. I have an agenda.
Moab tentative trip plan
Wednesday 4-21 travel to Goblin Valley State Park. Primitive camping
Thursday 4-22 ride San Rafael Swell south of Interstate
Friday 4-23 ride San Rafael Swell & depart in the afternoon to Moab to
Canyon Lands RV Park.
Saturday 4-24 Enjoy Moab Car Show etc.....maybe afternoon ride
Sunday 4-25 Depart early for Dugout Ranch & Beef Basin .......long day
Monday 4-26 Depart for Boise
Let me know.
Happy Trails
Tim
PS
Only one dared show up last year on a DRS & look what happened
-




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeff Hayden <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Brake noises
Date: 18 Mar 1999 08:54:42 -0800

Speaking of brakes... My new A13 appears to have loose brake pads and
they can be heard everywhere I go (chink - chink - chink).  The pads
seem to float on the pins and rattle against the rotor.  Of course they
don't make any noise when I apply the hydraulic fluid.

This is my first KLR (<300 miles) and not sure if this brake noise is
normal or should I see how good the Warranty guarantee is or is this
something I have to live with?
----
Jeff, KLR650-A13
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj  -  Down Home Page
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff  -  HAM IT UP Page






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Time to vote...
Date: 18 Mar 1999 12:50:42 -0500

Do It Today!!!!!!!


-----Original Message-----


>
>CNN is taking a poll to what we think about off road use so, Go to this
>address and vote!!!.
> Pass this one on to any one that rides, drives, pedals,ect,ect, off
>road.
>
>
>http://www.cnn.com/TECH/science/9902/09/utah.wilderness.enn/index.html
>
>
>Dr. Danny Williams D.C.
>Broomfield,Colorado
>92PD,83 XR500,81 750F, 74 RICKMANN,77HarleyXLCR,74
>ELSENORE,69CT70,70CB100,85husky500
>AMA# 476202
>GOOD ROADS BRING BAD PEOPLE,AND BAD ROADS BRING GOOD PEOPLE.
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Brian Schoonveld" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) ounces vs liters
Date: 18 Mar 1999 13:08:16 -0500

----> 8-10 ounces shy of 2.5 liters

 What's the best way to accurately measure out the oil - I'm looking at a
quart of Havoline and it has markings on it for ounces and milliliters
....... and the label says it contains 0.946 liters.   I guess I'm going to
have to do some math when it comes time to do my first oil change, or find a
measuring cup.  How much volume do you add to compensate for the filter's
capacity?  Or does the 2.5 liters assume a new oil filter?

Brian Schoonveld
A13




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) ounces vs liters
Date: 18 Mar 1999 11:17:16 -0700


>>What's the best way to accurately measure out the oil - I'm looking at a
quart of Havoline and it has markings on it for ounces and milliliters
....... and the label says it contains 0.946 liters.<<

I bought a Rubber Maid container that had liter and ounces on it and use it
for measuring.  It has a lid which keeps dust and dirt out when you are not
using it.  I also bought a bulk oil loader from Napa.  It holds up to 5
quarts.  When I change oil in my bikes or cars, I measure out the required
amount into the bulk loader (which has a tube for dispensing the oil, no
need for a funnel).  Works great.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Mirror Vibration
Date: 18 Mar 1999 13:30:27 EST

Greetings;

   I was trying to reduce the mirror vibration on the KLR and was looking at
the JC Whitney "vibration absorbers"  with the Honda XR mirrors as the
alternative, but when I pulled my mirrors, much to my surprise, they are left-
handed screws (not to be confused with ex-lovers) and everything in this
market seems to be for right-handed screws.  The previous owner put on
Renthals and farkeled it considerably, so these may not be stock.  I was
looking for something more simple than drilling out and replacing with heli-
coils.  I'm not very mechanically minded.  Has anyone had this problem or
aware of any simple adapters?

Thanks for your help.

John Paul Gray
Dana Point CA

95 KLR650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: Re: (klr650) Mirror Vibration
Date: 18 Mar 1999 14:06:14 -0500

[e-mail] wrote:

>   I was trying to reduce the mirror vibration on the KLR and was looking at
>the JC Whitney "vibration absorbers" ... but when I pulled my mirrors,
>much to my >surprise, they are left-handed screws...  The previous owner
>put on Renthals and >farkeled it considerably, so these may not be stock.

Your mirrors might be from Yamaha; they use left hand thread in a lot of
their applications. See if JC Whitney offers them for Yamaha specifically.
By the way,  a KLR friend of mine (Andres) tossed his JC Whitney absorbers
in the trash after a few  months because they only shifted the vibration to
a different RPM range but didn't reduce it.
I like the Italian perspective, "What's behind me is not my concern."

Mark (faster than your average tailgater)
B2
A2
XT250





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Pelican case alternative
Date: 18 Mar 1999 12:22:42 -0700

For those thinking of going with a pelican case, here is an alternative,
albeit a bit more pricey.  Sears now offers the high visibility tool case.
They are made in red, yellow and cobalt blue.  They have built in locks and
aluminum frames.

http://shop.sears.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce/;execmacro/dispProdsSCS.d2w/report?p
rrfnbr=13522&prmenbr=6970



Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) GPSIII to III+ upgrade
Date: 18 Mar 1999 12:35:58 -0800

>Hi Tom
>        Fast question: I am told that GPS III can be sendt back to Garmin
>to update to III+ and cost is about $100.-
>Tru or false?
>Greetings from NYC
>
>Helge Pedersen
>http://globeriders.com

====================================
***** GARMIN GPSIII owners ******

New program!!  To update your GPSIII to GPSIII+, call GARMIN at 1-800-800-1020.

Have your Serial# and method of payment ready.  Cost is $100.  Garmin will
return a factory-fresh GPSIII+ (you will lose all data stored in your III).

Tom

+-------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products
|  701 34th Ave
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com/gps
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
|  tel [phone]    fax [phone]
+-------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Brake noises
Date: 18 Mar 1999 13:47:25 -0700



>Speaking of brakes... My new A13 appears to have loose brake pads and
>they can be heard everywhere I go (chink - chink - chink).  The pads
>seem to float on the pins and rattle against the rotor.  Of course they
>don't make any noise when I apply the hydraulic fluid.
>
>This is my first KLR (<300 miles) and not sure if this brake noise is
>normal or should I see how good the Warranty guarantee is or is this
>something I have to live with?


I'm hard of hearing so I'm not much help...mine could have been making that racket and
I'd never know it...why not try your warranty? Maybe you'll surprise us...we've had 1
good story for every 30 bad on Kaw dealers....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ounces vs liters
Date: 18 Mar 1999 13:20:47 -0800

Page 65 of my little owners manual says:2.2 L (2.3 US qt) - when filter not
removed
                                                                      2.5 L
(2.6 US qt) - when filter is removed

Arne


-----Original Message-----


>----> 8-10 ounces shy of 2.5 liters
>
> What's the best way to accurately measure out the oil - I'm looking at a
>quart of Havoline and it has markings on it for ounces and milliliters
>....... and the label says it contains 0.946 liters.   I guess I'm going to
>have to do some math when it comes time to do my first oil change, or find
a
>measuring cup.  How much volume do you add to compensate for the filter's
>capacity?  Or does the 2.5 liters assume a new oil filter?
>
>Brian Schoonveld
>A13
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "cosmo bojinski" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) helmet lock
Date: 18 Mar 1999 13:54:51 PST

Hi Listers, can the factory helmet lock be used to safely carry a spare
brain-bucket at freeway speeds? It doesn't look too strong to
me,has anyone had it pop open? thanks, cosmo
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tire/Exhaust Rubbing
Date: 18 Mar 1999 18:54:02 +0000

> The Metzler is 130/90 as opposed to the stock 130/80 size so by my
> calculation that means it would be ~26 mm taller than the Dunlop that came
> on the bike.  (I've been told that comparing the aspect ratios of different
> tire manufacturers is like comparing apples to oranges, but I gotta start
> somewhere.)
>
> I'm thinking my options are:
>
> 1) remove lowering links (But I like 'em!)
>
> 2) change tire to 130/80 (Will this increase clearance sufficiently?)
>
> 3) longer shock (Are the Progressive or DP Works longer than the stocker?
> Would this neutralize the benefits of the lowering links?)
>
> Your assistance in thinking this through would be greatly appreciated as I
> think this constitutes an unsafe condition and will thereby render me a
> cager under it's remedied.
>
> Yours,
>
> Guy
>
Guy,

This is an excellent subject for anyone who may consider a suspension or
tire modification.

I also have an ME55A on my KLR, and noticed right off the bat how much
it makes the bike look like an urban road warrior machine when put in
contrast with the relatively skinny looking ME33 Laser 21" front.

I haven't had any interference problems with these tires....my
suspension is stock everything (although I did notice that the clearance
of the tire to the chain guard looked really close).

My experience with lowering blocks has been that if I really don't need
them then don't use them.  The reason is that I wore out my wiring to
the taillight of a Yamaha road bike.  I didn't know what was happening
until one day I just happened to be cleaning the rear wheel and noticed
that the underpart of the rear fender was way too clean in one spot(no
etching on the tires was evident)!

Any wire routing, fasteners, or components that protrude into the wheel
travel area should be considered a potential danger. I was running a 2
into 1 header system and the noise may have overshadowed any grinding I
might have heard otherwise.  One can easily see the clearance on the
swingarm, fender sides, or frame, when the bike is sitting still, but I
think you brought up a point that can easily be overlooked.

Jeff
A2


>
>
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: don roger <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Self-defence explanation...."fork seal band-aid"
Date: 18 Mar 1999 19:21:49 -0500

Eeek!

Someone has misread my note on emergency fork-leak band-aid, and =
inferred that I ride with a supply of the aforementioned "emergency =
supplies"!!

In order to defend my unkinkiness; I feel obliged to clear up the matter =
by stating that I applied the aforesaid band-aid WHEN I GOT HOME, and =
was able to get material from my good wife's supply!

But hey - we're a diverse lot here, so the reaction was mortification, =
not anger! :)=20

Don  "definitely not a cross-dresser" Roger




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Helmet lock
Date: 18 Mar 1999 16:33:08 PST

"Hi Listers, can the factory helmet lock be used to safely carry a spare
brain-bucket at freeway speeds?  It doesn't look too strong to
me..."

"Cosmo,"

Exactly!  Probably deliberately built that way to discourage people from
using it while "on the go."  I thought about doing it once.
Approximately 3.2 seconds later I realized it was a bad idea (at any
speed).  Way too much "rattle capability."  Even if the lock was strong
and even if the chin strap held do you really want that thing banging
around so close to your rear tire?  At highway speeds no less...  Please
reconsider,as a bungee net works safely and efficiently for carrying an
extra lid.  Happy trails...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Self-defence explanation...."fork seal band-aid"
Date: 19 Mar 1999 00:35:24 +0000

> Someone has misread my note on emergency fork-leak band-aid, and inferred that I ride with a supply of the aforementioned "emergency supplies"!!

However, as part of a first-aid kit that's equipped for things like nosebleeds, there's no better solution than a small cotton plug such as is commonly packaged in fluffy pink boxes.

Your fork seal thing sounded perfectly reasonable to me...

:)
Sarah

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: don roger <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Brake noises -" bad dealer" stats
Date: 18 Mar 1999 19:50:42 -0500

Kurt wrote=20

 "...we've had 1 good story for every 30 bad on Kaw dealers...."

Any Newbie reading this would be very put off on a purchase, and I think =
the ratio is wrong.

 I personally get good service and treatment from my Kawa dealer, and I =
think there are more like him out there. We may have had a few bad =
dealers mentioned several times. Possibly often by the same unhappy =
customers/list members.

Can anyone provide hard statistics on "bad" "neutral" and "good" dealer =
comment in the list's history?

Don Roger - Noticing many are getting a little testy here on the list









-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Lowering links...
Date: 18 Mar 1999 16:51:22 PST

Kurt Simpson wrote:

"Put on the Quality R & D lowering links yesterday morning...
What's my problem? I'm ashamed to admit it...aesthetics...the bike had a
tall ready for anything look before..now it is a short squatty thing
..."

Don't be ashamed, Kurt.  I was relieved to see I'm not the only one who
felt that way.  That's why I refrained from getting them, plus being
5'8" on a stock setup encourages me to ride smart.  I see exactly what
you mean...  Who wants their bike to look like some Bulgarian power
lifter when you can have it looking like Carl Lewis?

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR (short, and well on my way to squat...)
"The Happy Hooligan"
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:01:37 +0000

I haven't pulled the filter cover off yet and looked behind there so
> I thought I'd ask the list if there is enough room to slip the magnet in
> there, and if so, would there be a danger of the magnet disappearing into
> some deep, dark place.
>
> If this works, I think it would be beneficial as well as neat to see how
> muck "stuff" ends up being stuck to the magnet at my first oil change.
>
> Arne - who believes that a day without sunshine is, well... night.

Arne,

I think you have a good idea but the oil filter does fit pretty snug
into the oil filter cavity.  The filter is approximately 2.125" (plus or
minus) in diameter and the distance from the outside diameter of the
mounting pin grommet to the outside diameter of the filter is less than
an inch.  A magnetized oil drain plug may be a better way to go.  If
anybody knows of any sold for the KLR it is worth mentioning.

When you pry the oil filter cover off you will notice that the filter
fits in pretty snug and is centered on a mounting pin.  Basically you
pull the filter and pin out, ditch the filter and clean the pin.  Use a
rag or something to reach into the filter cavity to clean out the
remaining material and inspect for cleanliness.  Apply a light coat of
oil to the pin and turn it as you push it into the new filter element.
Make sure the filter element grommets at each end don't slip out.  Then
try to find home (the hole the mouting pin fits into) when you insert
the filter element back into the filter cavity.  It's kind of like
trying to get the pin into the center of a clock without being able to
see it.  You may encounter some difficulty and find that the filter just
kind of wants to lay in the cavity so that when you go to put the cap on
it won't go all the way (check the cap oring to see of it needs
replacement before you button things up...I've only gone through 3 in 11
years).

To get around this little 10 cent problem I make sure the mounting pin
seems to be at least partially into the hole and let the filter lay in
there.  Then as I position the cap over the filter and in pretty good
alignment with the screw holes and arrow up, I give it a moderate whack
with a rubber mallet (or my hand) and it sends that baby home....you'll
get used to how much pressure to exert after you've done it a couple of
times if you choose to as this is a method that works for me but may not
be accepted universally (it's a quick pop....nothing close enough to
knock the bike over!).

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) helmet lock
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:08:53 +0000

cosmo bojinski wrote:
>
> Hi Listers, can the factory helmet lock be used to safely carry a spare
> brain-bucket at freeway speeds? It doesn't look too strong to
> me,has anyone had it pop open? thanks, cosmo
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


I would never ever do that!

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Brake noises -" bad dealer" stats - NKLR
Date: 18 Mar 1999 18:08:24 -0700

Here is a good "bad dealer" story.  I buy a brand new bike from a local
dealer recently (Blackfoot Motorsports in Calgary)  and as I am leaving with
it I ask if there was gas in it.  He says yup I filled it up myself.  Being
the fool I am I believed him.  So I park the bike inside at work till the
snow melts and drive it home - 100kms on the highway......after about
60kms...it sputters and hesitates....I am thinking WTF I made it to a gas
station on reserve - barely.  I mean saving $6 on $6000 sale....now that's
cheap!

Cheers,

Vik



-----Original Message-----


Kurt wrote

"...we've had 1 good story for every 30 bad on Kaw dealers...."

Any Newbie reading this would be very put off on a purchase, and I think the
ratio is wrong.

I personally get good service and treatment from my Kawa dealer, and I think
there are more like him out there. We may have had a few bad dealers
mentioned several times. Possibly often by the same unhappy customers/list
members.

Can anyone provide hard statistics on "bad" "neutral" and "good" dealer
comment in the list's history?













-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Self-defence explanation...."fork seal band-aid"
Date: 18 Mar 1999 17:27:20 -0800

-----Original Message-----


>Eeek!
>
>Someone has misread my note on emergency fork-leak band-aid, and inferred
that I ride with a supply of the aforementioned "emergency supplies"!!


I've heard that a tampon can also come in handy if you've got a bleeding
nose...

Arne - whose nose never bleeds...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) NKLR - bad dealer stories.
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:19:04 EST

 "...we've had 1 good story for every 30 bad on Kaw dealers....
Any Newbie reading this would be very put off on a purchase, and I think =
the ratio is wrong."

Let me share a bad dealer story. I bought my 99 after researching the
available literature, including the dealer puff piece. One thing I noticed in
the dealer's literature was that the rear shock was adjustable, and I thought
that was something I would need. However, after 500 miles I realized the bike
was set up for the average Japanese body weight of  ~150 lbs (about the size
of my leg), and I really did need it! I took it to my dealer for the 500 mile
inspection / oil change (which was completed really quick, considering they
should have checked the valve clearances). When I went to pick up the bike, I
asked the owner of the dealership to have the rear suspension adjusted to fit
me. After looking at the shock, the " mechanic " said that it was completely
non adjustable. I was p.o. ed, and even showed him the part in the brochure
that says they are adjustable. The guy kind of shrugged and left me blowing in
the wind. Well needless to say I went home, kicked the cat, and read the
owners manual. After a whole 30 seconds, I found out how to adjust it to my
liking, I went back and let the owner know his "mechanic" was a flake, and how
much I appreciated this treatment less than a month after releiving me of
about $5000 of my hard earned cash. The sales dept. treated me fair, but I
forced them to do it. The service dept. at my local dealer stinks... I should
say at least 2 guys in the place are lazy, incompetent jerks. So I guess the
ratio is now 31-1?

Stuart Mumford
A13 " The bike that came from the land of the rising sun to pop your eardrums,
dazzle your eyeballs, and leave a big donut in the grass in front of the local
dealership really really late on Saturday night." >:-)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Self-defence explanation...."fork seal band-aid"
Date: 18 Mar 1999 18:24:07 -0700

Arne,

I'll buy you two pitchers of beer if you provide the list photographic
evidence of you employing this life saving technique..=)

Vik


>I've heard that a tampon can also come in handy if you've got a bleeding
>nose...
>
>Arne - whose nose never bleeds...
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) " bad dealer" stats - NKLR
Date: 18 Mar 1999 17:36:41 -0800

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>Here is a good "bad dealer" story.  I buy a brand new bike from a local
>dealer recently (Blackfoot Motorsports in Calgary)  and as I am leaving
with
>it I ask if there was gas in it.  He says yup I filled it up myself.  Being
>the fool I am I believed him.  So I park the bike inside at work till the
>snow melts and drive it home - 100kms on the highway......after about
>60kms...it sputters and hesitates....I am thinking WTF I made it to a gas
>station on reserve - barely.  I mean saving $6 on $6000 sale....now that's
>cheap!
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik


When I bought my new Valkyrie a couple years ago, the dealer gave me a
$10.00 bill for a fill up at the station down the street from him, and also
told me to keep the change, which was a couple bucks - even though he knew I
only had about a 30 kilometer trip to home.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - bad dealer stories.
Date: 19 Mar 1999 01:38:56 +0000

[e-mail] wrote:

>  "...we've had 1 good story for every 30 bad on Kaw dealers....
> Any Newbie reading this would be very put off on a purchase, and I think =
> the ratio is wrong."

Well, I bought my KLR used from a dealer who specializes in other brands of
bikes. So he doesn't exactly count as a Kaw dealer. But he cut me a real deal
(knocked $695 off the advertised price after being asked only once "So is the
price negotiable?"), plus, when I was about to leave with it, he gave it one
final once over, noticed one of the taillights was loose (I'd noticed it, but
figured I'd fix it after I got home) and had his mechanics (who were in the
process of closing up shop so they could go home for the evening) stop what they
were doing and fix it. Haven't gone back to see him because he's a bit far away,
but I have the feeling he'd provide good general service. unconfirmed, but I got
good vibes from him.

Sarah

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Self-defence explanation...."fork seal band-aid"
Date: 18 Mar 1999 17:51:17 -0800

Will both nostrils buy me 4???  (I'm laughing right now)

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>Arne,
>
>I'll buy you two pitchers of beer if you provide the list photographic
>evidence of you employing this life saving technique..=)
>
>Vik
>
>
>>I've heard that a tampon can also come in handy if you've got a bleeding
>>nose...
>>
>>Arne - whose nose never bleeds...
>>
>>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR - Good dealers, bad dealers
Date: 18 Mar 1999 19:27:32 -0000

I offer no explanation, but all four Kawasaki dealers I dealt with in CT
were great, unfortunately, two of them are no longer in business.  A thanks
to Bridgsches (RIP), Old Saybrook (RIP), Willows, and Midtown (even though
Kurt and John can have a attitude!;).  Extremely helpful, knew their stuff,
they shared an interest with you, and were kind of like Fred Hink.

My initial experiences in GA have been the complete opposite.  The first
dealers I have visited (2 Kawi, several other dealers with other makes) were
more like a Walmart, didn't seem to know much about the bikes they were
selling, nor did they care.  I walked into one dealer, ready to buy a KLR.
After waiting around for a while, with no other customers in the building, I
decided maybe I should try a different shop.  I had to get Dynojet and
Supertrapp part numbers from the respective websites because the dealer
where I bought my bike kept telling me they didn't make stuff for the KLR!
I gave up trying to order the Kawi luggage from them.

Since my purchase, I have found two dealers that seem alright, they talk
motorcycle talk, they seem to be one of "us".

Be wary, but give a dealer a chance, even a few chances before you give up
on them.  Also, Kawasaki Corp position is each dealer is an independent
enterprise, responsible for their respective business.  I had other more
serious problems with my initial purchase, and received the previous info in
writing from a Kawi spokesperson.  Consider yourself on your own, it may be
worth it to check out that dealer who is three hours away.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) bad dealers
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:49:28 EST

It is incredible to me how many incompetent dealers there are in the
motorcycle market in North America.  And the bottom line is that it is our
fault for tolerating it.  When you have a bad dealer experieice, you should
tell the manager, owner, or both.  And you should tell them in person and in
writing.  And you should tell the service arm of the manufacture, Kaw, Honda,
BMW, whoever it is.

We are too tolerant of bad dealers.  We need to learn how to do most of the
basics ourselves, just to know the bike is mechanically sound and safe.

This web site is a great place to post your honest experiences with dealers.
I beleive that the dealers should be named .  And we should also post positive
experiences with dealers so that the good ones can be identified and proud.
More dealers should be on line with us.  I wonder how the Concours Group guys
handle dealer incompetence.

Face it, it won't get better until the consumer hurts the dealers pocket book.
If you have a good dealer, treasure him and support him.  If you have a bad
dealer, tell him and ask him if he intends to get better in the area that
concerns you.  Give him a second chance if you are comfortable.  But if he
displays incompetence again, find someone else.

Mr. Do it yourself



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Pelican case alternative
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:52:25 -0500


--------------1732EECBE69CD5FCA7F7DF7E
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Folks, here is the Sears address as one hyperlink. -Tim

>
> h
> tp://shop.sears.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce/;execmacro/dispProdsSCS.d2w/report?prrfnbr=13522&prmenbr=6970
>
>

--------------1732EECBE69CD5FCA7F7DF7E
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Folks, here is the Sears address as one hyperlink. -Tim
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>
<br><a href="http://shop.sears.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce/;execmacro/dispProdsSCS.d2w/report?p">http://shop.sears.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce/;execmacro/dispProdsSCS.d2w/report?prrfnbr=13522&prmenbr=6970</a>
<br> </blockquote>
</html>

--------------1732EECBE69CD5FCA7F7DF7E--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Moody <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Good dealers, bad dealers
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:04:47 -0500

Eric Jasniewicz wrote:
>
> snip
>  Also, Kawasaki Corp position is each dealer is an independent
> enterprise, responsible for their respective business.  I had other more
> serious problems with my initial purchase, and received the previous info in
> writing from a Kawi spokesperson.  Consider yourself on your own, it may be
> worth it to check out that dealer who is three hours away.

Kawasaki does need to clean up it's dealer network.  I got the same
response from the Kawasaki corporate representative.  As much as I like
to pick on the Milwaukee Vibrator crowd, I have to admit that their
dealers are MUCH more customer oriented.


--
Bryan Moody
Greensboro, NC
86 Concours, 94 KLR650
COG Southeast Area Director http://www.concours.org/se

IBA: BBG, CCC Gold



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Conall O'Brien)
Subject: (klr650) Re: Helmet Lock
Date: 18 Mar 1999 18:15:16 -0800 (PST)

Cosmo-

I totally agree with Juan not to hang a spare helmet on the helmet lock
while underway.
This would be a sure way to mess up the helmet and worse make your bike
unstable.
If available, the luggage rack is the place to carry a spare lid.
Like Juan, I use a bungee net and since I use a offroad helmet I turn
the open face pointing backwards, so the helmet doesn't catch too much
air.

Conall
http://www.angelfire.com/co/klr650/index.html




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Pelican case alternative
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:14:14 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 6:53:21 PM Central Standard Time, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

<< (klr650) Pelican case alternative >>

Gino, how would you mount these cases on the KLR?

Ken Reither
Kingwood, TX



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
Date: 18 Mar 1999 19:33:56 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>A magnetized oil drain plug may be a better way to go.  If
>anybody knows of any sold for the KLR it is worth mentioning.

Mention....Mention....Mention  :<)

I sell em, how many do you want?

>When you pry the oil filter cover off you will notice that the filter
>fits in pretty snug and is centered on a mounting pin.

One problem that I have seen but not lately is the filter cover tends to
have a problem with the mounting lugs breaking off.  Was it because the tube
inside the filter can only be installed one way?  Or just tightening the
bolts unevenly?  I have one of these in stock if anyone needs one.

Fred






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:37:04 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 6:30:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

>  Was it because the tube
>  inside the filter can only be installed one way?

Yes.
Kurt Grife



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
Date: 19 Mar 1999 02:41:54 +0000

> One problem that I have seen but not lately is the filter cover tends to
> have a problem with the mounting lugs breaking off.  Was it because the tube
> inside the filter can only be installed one way?  Or just tightening the
> bolts unevenly?  I have one of these in stock if anyone needs one.
>

And here I just thought I'd overtorqued the hell out of the poor things after
witnessing a small family brawl in the street. Too much adrenaline not good for
tightening bolts. Borrowed some extractors from a friend and managed to
retrieve the bolt end from the hole. I picked up a couple of bolts of the
appropriate size in hardened steel from the corner OSH. (Yes, I know they're a
megalomart - they were the only thing open at 8pm on Saturday) So should I
replace 'em with Kaw OEM? Or do you think my fix will be acceptable? It seems
to work, but I'd hate to screw something up...

Sarah


--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Pelican case alternative
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:49:24 -0500

Ok, I fouled that up the first time.  Here is the Sears case link as one
hyperlink.

http://shop.sears.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce/;execmacro/dispProdsSCS.d2w/report?prrfnbr=13522&prmenbr=6970







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:06:04 -0700


-----Original Message-----


I picked up a couple of bolts of the
>appropriate size in hardened steel from the corner OSH. (Yes, I know
they're a
>megalomart - they were the only thing open at 8pm on Saturday) So should I
>replace 'em with Kaw OEM? Or do you think my fix will be acceptable? It
seems
>to work, but I'd hate to screw something up...


Hi Sarah,

What happened to Baja?

I see you have subscribed to the "Big sister Kates school of motorcycle
maintenance".  Those bolts should be OK.  They don't have to be very tight.
Just to hold the cover on.  The O-ring seal inside does the sealing.  Take a
deep breath next time and count to ten before tightening those 6mm bolts.
Remember, it is spelled finesse.  ;<)

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Brake lines speed bleeders
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:44:13 EST

Just finished installing front/rear russell SS lines w/speed bleeders, lines
are plastic coated and went on real well, good fit.  Speed bleeders saved lots
of time bleeding lines, worth the extra$, now I can use the brakes .  Thanks
for the advice.
Larry



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Moody <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) bad dealers
Date: 18 Mar 1999 22:08:49 -0500

[e-mail] wrote:
> snip
>  I wonder how the Concours Group guys handle dealer incompetence.

Pretty much the same way you do. In other words, there is no organized
effort to pinpoint good/bad dealers. :(

Personally, I don't deal with crappy dealer service departments.  I do
ALL of my own maintenance with the exception of mounting tires on the
Connie, and have started buying my OEM parts from Banzai.  That way I
know it's done right and fairly inexpensively.



Good dealers IMO:
Grand Prix Kawasaki in El Paso, TX
I had a problem when I was making the CCC with what seemed like a bad
wheel bearing.  Called them Saturday afternoon about an hour before
closing, they gave me directions to the shop.  Since all of the service
bays were full, they helped me pull the front wheel off of my bike in
the parking lot and found the problem.  No charge.


Fair dealers, (again IMO):
Forsyth Motosports in Winston-Salem, NC
Fair selection of bikes, pretty good clothing selection, NEVER have
parts in stock for either the KLR or the Connie.  Their old parts guy
(John Hunter, now at Honda High Point) was very willing to help you out
and make sure you got what you needed, the new guys just don't seem to
care.

Greensboro Harley-Davidson, Greensboro, NC
They have gotten MUCH better with new ownership.  Good selection of new
Kawasaki's, friendly help.  Still don't have any depth of parts, but are
very willing to help you out.  If they had more parts coverage they
would rate an A.


Poor dealers:
Lee Kawasaki in Thomasville, NC
No bikes, no parts, want to deal mainly in watercraft and ATV's.  I'm
happy to oblige them, since I don't own either.


--
Bryan Moody
Greensboro, NC
86 Concours, 94 KLR650
COG Southeast Area Director http://www.concours.org/se

IBA: BBG, CCC Gold



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Good dealers, bad dealers
Date: 18 Mar 1999 22:10:11 +0000

Eric Jasniewicz wrote:
>
> I offer no explanation, but all four Kawasaki dealers I dealt with in CT
> were great, unfortunately, two of them are no longer in business.  A thanks
> to Bridgsches (RIP), Old Saybrook (RIP), Willows, and Midtown (even though
> Kurt and John can have a attitude!;).  Extremely helpful, knew their stuff,
> they shared an interest with you, and were kind of like Fred Hink.
>
>
Eric,

I purchased my KLR from Saybrook Kawasaki/Yamaha (and eventually Suzuki
which they inherited from Valley Cycle in Winthrop R.I.P.) and I still
have the original dealer license plate bracket intalled!  I really miss
having the convenience of that dealership being nearby and the people
that worked there always gave me 1st class treatment.

Though I do as much of my own maintenance as I can I now use New England
Cycle Works in Groton and have been really satisfied with their work
because the KLR is a rare machine for them to repair and they have a
limited number of mechanics trained for it.  They took their time with
it, had difficulty getting certain parts from Kawasaki, but did a real
good job (of course I paid the usual mega bucks).  However I do drive
the sales people crazy as I take my tour through the new bikes every
year. I hope they live long enough to see me come back with cash because
the next bike I get has to be the Harley.

Not to beat a dead horse into the ground but the following dealers in my
immediate area have all gone under since demand started dropping off in
the '70s (Middlesex and New London County):

Ralph Strong's - BMW, Yamaha, Triumph (Waterford)
Clinton Yamaha -  Yamaha (Clinton)
Saybrook Kawasaki/Yamaha - and later Suzuki (Saybrook)
Valley Cycle Sales-  Suzuki, Honda (Winthrop)
Bill's Harley Davidson - HD spoken only (Clinton)
Rusconi's - Triumph (Middletown)
Marino's - Honda (Middletown)
Miller's - Ducks and Guzzis (Clinton) though it's possible they moved
but I haven't heard
Pike Cycle Sales - Cz and Jawa (Centerbrook)
Sved's? - British spoken (near Devil's Hopyard)
Shuster's - BSA the power the glory (Meriden)

I may have missed one.

And this is only in two counties.  Time has seperated the "riders" from
the "enthusiasts" and obviously there weren't enough "riders" to keep it
all going.

We need more riders to fill the void that these ghost dealers leave
behind.  The way it looks there is health everywhere in the motorcylce
market and I'm hopeful that the next century will be a motorcycle rich
environment.  If it is, MMI won't be able to turn out people fast enough
to fill new and expanding dealerships with mechanics and managers.  Let
the games begin.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
Date: 19 Mar 1999 03:06:21 +0000

> Hi Sarah,
>
> What happened to Baja?

I'm due to set out on Saturday about noon to rendezvous with the group at Anza
Borrego. Then we're heading across the border Sunday morning at Tecate. The
rest of the group's heading down from San Francisco. I'll be out of email range
for 10 days (will I make it????) but I'll regale you with tales upon my return.
:)

> I see you have subscribed to the "Big sister Kates school of motorcycle
> maintenance".  Those bolts should be OK.  They don't have to be very tight.
> Just to hold the cover on.  The O-ring seal inside does the sealing.

o-ring? there's supposed to be an o-ring? I should look into that...

> Take a
> deep breath next time and count to ten before tightening those 6mm bolts.

Yeah, well the second time around, I got the general torque spec out of the
manual and borrowed a friend's torque wrench and stopped when the wrench said
to. :)

Sarah

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] trailer questions
Date: 18 Mar 1999 22:18:37 -0500

BTW is it [NKLR] or (NKLR) for non klr related?

My questions about a trailer.  Don't laugh.  Don't.
I want to build a trailer to haul my canoe behind my KLR.  I'm doing
this because
I am selling my SUV and want to still be able to get my canoe to the
water.  While the water is only 2 miles from my canoe storage facility,
I will probably decide to take the canoe to the Florida keys this
summer, about 300 miles away.  That said:
I calculate the weight of the trailer, canoe and stuff to be 150~200
pounds depending on the stuff.  I weigh 230 pounds and the bike is about
370 with panniers.  So, I want to pull a 200 lb trailer with a 600 lb
bike/rider combo.

Question #1    Is this safe or stupid?

Question #2    Should the trailer hitch attach to the swingarm or to the
frame?

Question #3    Are there other questions that I perhaps don't know to
ask?

Thanks so much, -Tim Bootle, A7 with 14000 miles.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Gripsters -- tubeless?
Date: 18 Mar 1999 07:27:31 -0800

Pete- I had the same concerns about the Gripsters.  My local bike parts
supplier didn't recognize the availability of the tube type (TT) because
their supplier's catalog only listed the tubeless (TL) evidently because
they didn't want the added cost of stocking both.  I called the 800 customer
service phone number for Avon and was informed that although they make both
types, the only difference is the lettering (tubeless) or lack thereof on
the tire.  It's a marketing thing.  They said that some bike makers spec a
tubless tire or not and the tire makers are happy to comply.  The cost
difference is negligible from a users standpoint.
Ride Sane,
Darrel
A12 'avenger'
Digester


**********************

Got a new set of Avon Gripsters for the KLR from DK the other day.  The
packaging sez they're tubeless tires.  Called DK about this and they said
that the tubeless and tube tires are one and the same.  They lying to me???

- --pete






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tire/Exhaust Rubbing
Date: 18 Mar 1999 22:31:38 +0000

One can easily see the clearance on the
> swingarm, fender sides, or frame, when the bike is sitting still, but I
> think you brought up a point that can easily be overlooked.
>
> Jeff
> A2


Forgot to mention that I read in the KLR650 archives that it's a good
idea to use a bash plate on the rear fender if you install the lowering
links and intend to ride the bike harshly.  Since your exhaust system is
not stock then your situation seems to be more of an exhaust pipe
manufacturer compatibility issue for sidewall clearance with any tires
designed that will fit that bike.  I usually read installation
instructions pretty thoroughly to see if they post any special notes
etc....Sometimes they mention things that are exceptional.

Jeff
A2
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKLR] trailer questions
Date: 18 Mar 1999 19:37:43 -0800

Tim
I have less than zero experience towing anything behind a motorcycle.
However, having sailed boats for 35 years, flown a few airplanes, crashed a
number of hangliders, and paddled a couple of canoes, I am very aware of the
affect the wind can have on things that move.  The first thing that came to
my mind was how much a side blast would affect the small patch of tire you
have on the ground.  Sounds sketchy to me.  Remember the force of the wind
increases with the square of the velocity.
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - bad dealer stories.
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:44:21 -0700


| "...we've had 1 good story for every 30 bad on Kaw dealers....
|Any Newbie reading this would be very put off on a purchase, and I think =
|the ratio is wrong."

The last thing in the world I would want to do is to discourage anyone newbie or not from
buying the best value in motorcycledom...but they have a right to know what they're getting
into. Buy the bike and find someone else to service it or better service it yourself. As the
resident librarian of the archives I have a pretty good handle on the contents of the 12,000
messages...and I would say 30 to 1 is about right...there isn't any business I know of that can
survive with that kind of customer treatment but they are...at least for now.

Kurt






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "scott blakney" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) First Shift of the Day
Date: 18 Mar 1999 19:53:32 PST

This lurker finally has a question that necessitates exposure.
My A13 with 600 miles (yes, I have obeyed the break-in rules and have
had the valves adjusted and oil changed) does not like the first gear
engagement of the day.  Even with the clutch fully pulled in, with a
sufficient pause, when the shift lever is placed into first there is a
clunk followed by engine stall, or a minor tooth meshing sound and a
jerk.  Yeah, I know, rider technique.  New guy.  I don't like to mash it
into gear, but it demands it.  Is this normal?  I don't want to start
down the slippery slope of the oil question.  Oh, alright I will.  It is
Torco 10w-40.  A motorcycle specific oil.
My affection for the machine grows every time I ride it.  So far my
riding has consisted of hilly, narrow country roads 50%paved and 50%dirt
and gravel.  Went through 7 low water crossings yesterday and learned to
get my feet out of the way if you cross at speed!  I think the bike is
ugly as all hell, but ugly in a brutishly handsome way.
This is only my second bike, the first being a Kawasaki 750 twin, bought
in 1979 and sold in 1982.  I bought the KLR sight unseen.  I bought in
on faith.  I came across you guys (God Bless you all) by accident when
the motorcycle/mid-life crises set in.  After reading the posts and the
humour I just HAD to get one of these machines.  Many, many thanks to
you all.  While I am running on and on here I might add that I have
already ordered a Dual Star centerstand and concluded that I just better
adapt my 5'7" body to the bike rather than lower it with the links and
compromise its dual purpose.  Thank-you for this forum.


Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) bad dealers
Date: 18 Mar 1999 22:25:47 +0000



    A good dealer: Capitol Kawasaki in Columbia, SC (recently converted to
Columbia Powersports, now selling Yamaha and Suzuki as well).

    Let me put it this way: When I was on my way out of town to a dual spot
rally , they pulled a part off of a KLR on the floor to get me on my way.
Aside from this extraordinary service, they commonly treat me pretty good
on parts and accessories.


    And my KLR came with a full tank of gas, too.  :)



-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
Date: 18 Mar 1999 22:30:57 +0000

At 02:41 AM 3/19/99 +0000, Sarah Barwig wrote:
>> One problem that I have seen but not lately is the filter cover tends to
>> have a problem with the mounting lugs breaking off.  Was it because the
tube
>> inside the filter can only be installed one way?  Or just tightening the
>> bolts unevenly?  I have one of these in stock if anyone needs one.
>>
>
>And here I just thought I'd overtorqued the hell out of the poor things after
>witnessing a small family brawl in the street. Too much adrenaline not
good for
>tightening bolts. Borrowed some extractors from a friend and managed to
>retrieve the bolt end from the hole. I picked up a couple of bolts of the
>appropriate size in hardened steel from the corner OSH. (Yes, I know
they're a
>megalomart - they were the only thing open at 8pm on Saturday) So should I
>replace 'em with Kaw OEM? Or do you think my fix will be acceptable? It seems
>to work, but I'd hate to screw something up...



    Japanese bike fasteners are of notoriously poor quality. Your dealer
probably stocks aftermarket replacement screws of better quality. If not,
then even hardware store screws are generaly an improvement.


    The major reason these covers fail is that people dont make sure that the
covers are seated fully agains the case before tighteneing the screws, IMHO.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Helmet lock
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:02:16 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


|"Hi Listers, can the factory helmet lock be used to safely carry a spare
|brain-bucket at freeway speeds?  It doesn't look too strong to
|me..."
|
|"Cosmo,"

I've riddent with my helmet on the lock twice..both times by mistake...both times put a rather
large expensive groove in the faceshield of my helmet within 100 feet. Not a good idea...

Kurt
|
|Exactly!  Probably deliberately built that way to discourage people from
|using it while "on the go."  I thought about doing it once.
|Approximately 3.2 seconds later I realized it was a bad idea (at any
|speed).  Way too much "rattle capability."  Even if the lock was strong
|and even if the chin strap held do you really want that thing banging
|around so close to your rear tire?  At highway speeds no less...  Please
|reconsider,as a bungee net works safely and efficiently for carrying an
|extra lid.  Happy trails...
|
|Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
|"The Happy Hooligan"
|
|______________________________________________________
|Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
|
|




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Pelican case alternative
Date: 18 Mar 1999 23:01:35 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 7:22:11 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Gino, how would you mount these cases on the KLR?

 Ken Reither
 Kingwood, TX >>

You have three options.  1 is to call Jake Jakeman at Sagebrush machine shop
435-387-5575.  He makes mounting plates for these and has just made one that
incorporated a 3 gallon fuel cell. 2. is to call Tim Bernard who is also
making a sid mount carrier for any kind of luggage,  3 is very expensive.
Call Ride West BMW 1-888-527-7433 and order Hepco Becker racks and the
universal quick release kit.  This will allow you to remove the bags in about
30 seconds.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Shift of the Day
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:07:19 -0700



|This lurker finally has a question that necessitates exposure.
|My A13 with 600 miles (yes, I have obeyed the break-in rules and have
|had the valves adjusted and oil changed) does not like the first gear
|engagement of the day

No more lurking for you...welcome aboard...my experience was similar to yours...I stumbled on
Bill's website and saw his KLR and thought "where has this bike been hiding"....

About the first shift...I think it is pretty common...I let might warm for a few minutes and
then pull the clutch in and blip a couple of times let it out etc. then I upshift into second
first...then down into first...still makes an awful racket but it doesn't creep...the clutch
plates are sticking together...I use Mobil 1...but after Skip's remarks I may switch to Rotella
because I like the name and have a ton of it around to feed my 6.9 Turbo Diesel...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Shift of the Day
Date: 18 Mar 1999 23:07:13 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 8:58:38 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< This lurker finally has a question that necessitates exposure.
 My A13 with 600 miles (yes, I have obeyed the break-in rules and have
 had the valves adjusted and oil changed) does not like the first gear
 engagement of the day.  Even with the clutch fully pulled in, with a
 sufficient pause, when the shift lever is placed into first there is a
 clunk followed by engine stall, or a minor tooth meshing sound and a
 jerk.  >>

Could be clutch cable stretch.  Make sure your clutch cable is adjusted as per
the manual.  Welcome to the list.  Now what was that initiation ritual
again....

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Conall O'Brien)
Subject: (klr650) Re: First shift of the day (Top of the morning to you)
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:10:15 -0800 (PST)

Scott-
If you have trouble getting it into 1st gear, check your gear shifter-
it could be loose. It's happened to me and lots others. Get the IMS pro
shifter and keep the OEM for a spare. My $0.02

Conall




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Shift of the Day....NKLR
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:11:25 -0700


|Could be clutch cable stretch.  Make sure your clutch cable is adjusted as per
|the manual.  Welcome to the list.  Now what was that initiation ritual
|again....
|
|Gino
|
Had something to do with Fred didn't it...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Kate...where are you?  NKLR
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:12:09 -0700

Kate...oh Kate? Can Kate come out to play?

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Mirror Vibration
Date: 18 Mar 1999 23:12:42 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 1:07:52 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< By the way,  a KLR friend of mine (Andres) tossed his JC Whitney absorbers
 in the trash after a few  months because they only shifted the vibration to
 a different RPM range but didn't reduce it.
 I like the Italian perspective, "What's behind me is not my concern."

 Mark (faster than your average tailgate >>
I am using the older GS series Suzuki mirror vibration dampers, they don't
help at all, just raised the mirror 2" which is the only benefit.Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Break-in oil
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:12:10 -0700




>>Arne wrote:
>>
>>BTW, what kind of oil does Kawasaki put in from the factory?  Is it a
>>special kind of break-in oil?  I'm thinking of dumping it even though it's
>>new and putting in fresh.  I won't use synthetic at this point though -
I've
>>heard that you shouldn't use it during the break-in period of a motor.
>>Sorry I can't remember where I heard that from.
>>
>
>Hey Skip,
>Don't aircraft piston engines use "straight mineral" non-detergent oil for
>the first 50 or 100hrs? Can you give us the skinny on this?
>Thanks,
>Mark
>


Yes, but usually only the first 25 hours or until oil consumption
stabilizes. Keep in mind that on an aircraft, 25 hours usually equates to
about 2500 miles or more, depending on the aircraft. The use of straight
mineral oil with no lubricant and cleaning additives allows more metal to
metal contact, which is needed for proper ring and valve seat break-in.
   Also, keep in mind that you SHOULDN`T baby an engine during break-in. Run
it hard and vary the rpms the first several hundred miles. You`ll do more
harm by being easy with it. This is true for all piston engines. If you
limit the rpms and keep the oil and cylinder temps too low, the engine takes
longer to break-in and cylinder glazing can occur . We break in aircraft
engines by running them hard, usually nothing below 80% power for the first
4 hours (400 to 500 miles ) and then nothing below 70% power (except when
necessary) for the next 20 hours (2000 to 3000 miles). My customers engines,
when properly broken in and with strict oil change intervals (50 hours or
5000 miles, with a filter) usually reach their BO ( time between overhauls)
of 1800 or 2000 hours, which equates to 200,000 + miles.

Skip
    After the first several hundred miles that you`ve been ranging through
the whole rpm range (yes, even to red line) ride it normally. Most
synthetics shouldn`t  be started till after positive break-in has occurred,
which would safely be after a couple of thousand miles or your first oil
change.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Mirror Vibration
Date: 18 Mar 1999 23:10:11 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 12:38:28 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Has anyone had this problem or
 aware of any simple adapters?

 Thanks for your help.

 John Paul Gray
 Dana Point CA >>
John Paul, Yamaha used to use a L/H threaded mirror on the L/H mirror, I think
everyone elso used R/H on both sides. maybe a Yammy mirror? frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Kenda 270
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:20:48 -0700

I just turned 5100 miles on my A12 and the rear stock tire is about toast...anyone have any
comments about the Kenda 270? I know Kurt Grife runs one and I saw one on the back of Mike
Sonzini's TransAlp...I'm looking at a picture and it looks pretty good...and Kenda's are
usually inexpensive...

Thanks,

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Shift of the Day
Date: 18 Mar 1999 22:30:24 -0600

scott blakney wrote:

> This lurker finally has a question that necessitates exposure.
> My A13 with 600 miles (yes, I have obeyed the break-in rules and have
> had the valves adjusted and oil changed) does not like the first gear
> engagement of the day.  Even with the clutch fully pulled in, with a
> sufficient pause, when the shift lever is placed into first there is a
> clunk followed by engine stall, or a minor tooth meshing sound and a
> jerk.

This has been a problem on many different kinds of bikes for years.
I call it 'normal'.  How to get around it?

One or more of these techniques has worked on various bikes, for me,
over the years.

1. Before you start it, put it in gear and rock the bike back and
forth, with the clutch lever squeezed.  Then put it back in neutral
and start it.
2. As it is warming up, 'pump' the clutch lever a few times.
3. Let it warm up a bit longer.

Any others, fellow listers?

phil



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - bad dealer stories.
Date: 18 Mar 1999 23:22:22 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 7:30:54 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< The sales dept. treated me fair, but I
 forced them to do it. The service dept. at my local dealer stinks... I should
 say at least 2 guys in the place are lazy, incompetent jerks. So I guess the
 ratio is now 31-1? >>
Stu, thats what makes a list like this so valuable! frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Shift of the Day
Date: 18 Mar 1999 22:41:22 -0600

... when the shift lever is placed into first there is a
>  clunk followed by engine stall, or a minor tooth meshing sound and a
>  jerk.  >>


> Could be clutch cable stretch.  Make sure your clutch cable is adjusted as per
> the manual.  Welcome to the list.  Now what was that initiation ritual
> again....


My '92 1500A Vulcan was a BEAR for 'sticking clutch plates' almost every
day.  (It had a hydraulic clutch.)

Initiation Ritual?  How about get naked, in a cornfield, at midnight,
under a full moon, and dance with an (oven-ready) chicken...


...and speaking of naked...anyone seen that site for nude motorcycling?

Looks like most of the pictures were taken on a lonely country road, at
midnight, and any that were reasonably well-lit by flash...shouldn't
have been !  <GRIN>

phil in SK



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR...nude motorcycling..
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:43:17 -0700


|...and speaking of naked...anyone seen that site for nude motorcycling?
|
|Looks like most of the pictures were taken on a lonely country road, at
|midnight, and any that were reasonably well-lit by flash...shouldn't
|have been !  <GRIN>


Our resident expert on this aspect of cycling has been very quiet as of late...

Redondo?

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alex Jomarron <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: hanging the helmet
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:50:01 -0800 (PST)

When I rode the KLR on its first tour to Mid Ohio for the Vintage Bike
Races, I ran out of gas. I pushed the KLR a bit and hung the helmet on
the lock. Needless to say my White Shoei Duotech suffered from
"skidmarks" as it rubbed against the tire. To do it at speed would be,
well, not good......







==
Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL USA
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Shift of the Day
Date: 18 Mar 1999 23:51:40 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 9:58:38 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<  Even with the clutch fully pulled in, with a
 sufficient pause, when the shift lever is placed into first there is a
 clunk followed by engine stall, or a minor tooth meshing sound and a
 jerk. >>
Scott, cold weather starts can cause the clutch clunk, using too heavy of oil
can(although you said that you use 10w40) which should be ok,  and loosly
adjusted clutch which is probably the problem, or your not pulling the lever
all the way. Also, adjusting the clutch lever at the engine puts less stress
on the cable. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Mission Failed (his, not mine)
Date: 18 Mar 1999 22:02:09 -0700




>Dude, I hope you are kidding. Don't get me wrong, I love my new 99, but a
KLR
>can't keep you warm at night. Well, ah, actually I suppose it could, if you
left
>it running and vented the exhaust properly. Anyway, give the woman some
credit,
>at least she likes motorcycles.
>
>Rob


Rob, I normally don't get involved in Skip's evening entertainment, but I
couldn't pass this one up. He doesn't know that I occasionally keep tabs
with the discussions, so this may come as a surprise (nice one, I'm sure).
I like your thinking (the exhaust idea, that is) , however, I would suggest
no ventilation. I'm suggesting a survey with Skip as the first respondent: "
How cozy is your KLR650??? This survey would best be conducted on a nice 15
degree Montana night  (like tonight), don't you think?

Anyway, I didn't want to be a sheep and follow the KLR shepherd,
thus my choice of the red "half-breed" F650.  If Skip weren't color-blind to
begin with, he probably would not have chosen a '95 model. Yeah,
"half-breed" red just can't compare with the "Caribbean-Splash" color
scheme.

I think that this little bike competition is gonna be quite interesting -
give our riding a little feisty edge.

Looking forward to riding and not asking for forgiveness,

Mollye Faulkner





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:09:53 -0800

--------------    Skip Faulkner:
   Also, keep in mind that you SHOULDN`T baby an engine during break-in. Run
it hard and vary the rpms the first several hundred miles.

    After the first several hundred miles that you`ve been ranging through
the whole rpm range (yes, even to red line) ride it normally. Most
synthetics shouldn`t  be started till after positive break-in has occurred,
which would safely be after a couple of thousand miles or your first oil
change.
--------------

Ok Skip, this is all well and good if we're chattin' bout an airplane engine
or other multi-piston motor(?)...but are you telling me I should have been
putting my A13 through all points of the tach accept for the Big Red Line?

I'm just now pushing 500m and would hate to hear my conventional ideas of,
"break in", are all bunk. --- aside from the fact that its been tougher than
hell to stay under 4k.

-rik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) helmet lock
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:55:33 -0800



>Hi Listers, can the factory helmet lock be used to safely carry a spare
>brain-bucket at freeway speeds? It doesn't look too strong to
>me,has anyone had it pop open? thanks, cosmo


I seem to recall the operators manual cautioning AGAINST this, plus its a
bad idea anyway.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Helmet Lock
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:16:23 -0800



Cosmo-

I totally agree with Juan not to hang a spare helmet on the helmet lock
while underway.
This would be a sure way to mess up the helmet and worse make your bike
unstable.
If available, the luggage rack is the place to carry a spare lid.
Like Juan, I use a bungee net and since I use a offroad helmet I turn
the open face pointing backwards, so the helmet doesn't catch too much
air.



See now, I have to say that carrying a spare helmet reeks of desperation!
Before the mandatory helmet law in this state, it used to be cool to go out
and cruise on my bike and maybe take a girl that I met for a ride.  But then
you had to carry a spare helmet, and the girls thought that you were out
"hunting" and therefore desperate.  I had better luck in my VW bug after
that.....

Jeff--who's wife refuses to ride with him.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Braking Physics (NKLR)
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:15:50 -0800


>> Pressure is equal to force divided by the area.  The
>> pressure is different on the input side (brake lever) than the output
side,
>> as the areas of the pistons is different.
>
>I don't agree with this one.
>If this is hydraulic pressure, the pressure of the fluid, then it
>will be the same enough everywhere in the system, whether at the
>master cyl or caliper.


You're right,  the fluid pressure is the same.   I mean delta p, which means
higher output force for larger area .
>> Another poster stated that by adding a larger brake pad the area of the
>> output side has increased.  I don't believe this to be true, since the
fluid
>> pressure is acting on the caliper piston's area, not on the brake pad
>> directly.
>
>Yeah, but differing pad area will affect the pressure of the pad
>material on the disc.
>Everyone seems to be assuming that pad/disc friction is linear with
>pad pressure and temp, which in real life rarely, if ever, is.
>But everyone has to assume this or their calculations get _way_ too
>complicated.

Pressure has nothing to do with calculating the frictional force between pad
and disk. The only variables in the equation are the normal FORCE between
the pad and the disk and the coeffecient of kinetic friction, which is
mearly a scaler that is determined by the type of materials that are sliding
past each other.  Thats all.


>> So you see, all
>> of the extra work done by friction can either be converted to kinetic
energy
>> and actually stop the brake faster, or be converted to waste heat, which
is
>> a bad thing and causes the brakes to fade.
>
>This I don't get.
>Braking converts your bike's motion into heat and to chewing out the
>pads and rotor, and sometimes making neat whizzing sounds.
>The vast majority of the energy goes into making heat, judging by
>how long pads and rotors last.
>To brake, you make heat and slowly tear up a couple of sliding
>surfaces. There's not much more to it than that.
>Besides, heat is just kinetic energy on a molecular level.
>
OK, by kinetic energy, I am refering to 1/2 X Mass X Velocity squared, or in
the case of a rotating disk, KE = 1/2 Inertia X Omega squared.  That is, one
half of its inertia times its rotational velocity squared.  This is the
kinetic energy of an object in motion, and represents energy.  Other energy
is potential energy, like chemical energy, or the potential to roll down a
hill, or heat.  The Law of Conservation of Energy states that the total
energy of a system is the sum of its kinetic energy and its potential
energy.  In the case of the brake, the brake is performing work on the brake
disk, work and energy are one and the same.  The total energy that is
supplied to the disk by the brake pads is determined by its change in
kinetic energy, plus its total potential energy.  In the case of the brake,
the potential energy is in the form of heat.  Since this heat energy isn't
useful for performing work, that's why I refered to it as waste heat.  I
could tell you exactly how effecient the brake was, i.e how much work was
transformed to a change in kinetic energy, if I could determine the initial
rotational velocity of the disk, the its rotational inertia, and the initial
and final temperatures of the brake.  (Assuming that the final velocity is
zero).

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) bad dealers
Date: 18 Mar 1999 20:57:08 -0800


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; [e-mail] <[e-mail]>;
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>



>Face it, it won't get better until the consumer hurts the dealers pocket
book.

I agree with you totally, but in Calgary there are maybe 6 dealers all told
and all of them (except HD who I have never dealt with) are terrible.  What
is worse they seem to be selling bikes by the truckload....I literally watch
the bikes roll out on a spring or summer Saturday.  I have complained and no
result.  I once needed a oil filler cap for my GSX-R.  I called Blackfoot
(same as my bad experience with low gas) and asked if they had one...no it
was a special order item and they wouldn't order it till I came by and
prepaid it or gave them a credit card.  In a fit of rage I told them to F**K
**F and called a smaller dealer that specialized in Suzuki....same
answer...so I dropped by and prepaid or I'd be short one filler cap!
Cheers,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In
Date: 18 Mar 1999 22:28:47 -0700


>Ok Skip, this is all well and good if we're chattin' bout an airplane
engine
>or other multi-piston motor(?)...but are you telling me I should have been
>putting my A13 through all points of the tach accept for the Big Red Line?
>
>I'm just now pushing 500m and would hate to hear my conventional ideas of,
>"break in", are all bunk. --- aside from the fact that its been tougher
than
>hell to stay under 4k.
>
>-rik
>
>

Rik, I`m sorry, I`m talking about after the first 500 miles that Kawasaki
recommends staying under 4000 rpm. And yes, singles included. During the
first 500 miles, it is important to vary the rpm as much as is practical.
I`ve broken in 8 bikes this way and have never had any problems. I`ve never
kept one long enough to get over 40,000 miles on it, but up to that point
I`ve never had an oil consumption problem or any other major problems. If
you`re uncomfortable with this, I understand. But please don`t baby it. It`s
important that you break it in like you`re going to ride it. I doubt that
you`ll stay below 4000 rpm ALL the time, so you may not take it to red-line,
but at least break 5000 after you get the first 500 on it.


  Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:41:26 -0800

>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
>To: Arne Larsen <[e-mail]>
>Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 11:08 AM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) Magnet in Oil
>
>
>>A magnetized oil drain plug may be a better way to go.  If
>>anybody knows of any sold for the KLR it is worth mentioning.



Ya, I do... Me!

Ordered one from Fred this evening.  I thought it would pack nicely with the
Stainless Steel Oil Filter; The Base and Supplement Service Manuals; the
"purple", dimpled Pro-Grip gel grips; the White Brothers Skid Plate; the
(spare) MSR folding shift lever; the K&N Air Filter; and the K&N re-charger
kit.

Arne  (ch-ching...)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKLR] trailer questions
Date: 18 Mar 1999 21:46:57 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>BTW is it [NKLR] or (NKLR) for non klr related?


Both.

Arne - who is now KLR




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Good dealers, bad dealers
Date: 19 Mar 1999 00:46:27 -0500

I think there are a lot of people who don't want to be bothered when they
are out shopping or drooling :)  I spent 20 minutes in a completely empty
Kawasaki dealer before being acknowledge and when I said I was just looking
around I was left alone.  I'm definately going back to that dealer.
Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----
 I walked into one dealer, ready to buy a KLR.
>After waiting around for a while, with no other customers in the building,
I
>decided maybe I should try a different shop.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted & Beth Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) TIRES
Date: 19 Mar 1999 00:48:44 -0500

I HAVE AN 89 KLR650 WITH 26,000 MILES ON IT. I PLAN TO REPLACE THE TIRES
THIS YEAR. FROM READING THE LIST, EVERYONE SEEMS TO FAVOR THE AVONS.
ANYONE HAVE AN OPINION ON THE DUNLOPS? WE CAN GET THEM FOR A REASONABLE
PRICE AS THEY ARE MADE HERE IN BUFFALO. I CURRENTLY HAVE METTZLER
SAHARAS WHICH I LOVE, BUT THEY ARE BIG BUCKS TO REPLACE. I AM A NEW
SUBSCRIBER AS OF TODAY- GREAT TO SEE THAT THERE ARE SO MANY OTHER
NUTCASES OUT THERE WHO LOVE THEIR KLR'S.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) helmet lock
Date: 19 Mar 1999 00:53:34 EST

One would think the warning in the manual would prevail.  But then I  never
cease to be amazed by our tendancy  to try to bend reality to fit our own
desires.

John Paul Gray
Dana Point CA

94 ST1100
95 KLR650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR: SJ Mobil One
Date: 18 Mar 1999 09:07:36 -0800

In agreeance with Skip, Motorcycle Consumer News (highly reputable and not
biased based on advertising loyalties) wrote that the higher weight
multi-grade SH/SJ oils (i.e. M1 15-50W) aren't required to comply with the
lower phosphorous/moly levels and don't .  It's the lower weight SH/SJ oils
typically used in automobiles that are different and probably not good used
in motorcycles with integrated transmissions.  Also starters are somehow
adversely affected by the oils lacking in the additives.  My conclusion:
continue to use the *automotive* Mobil 1 15-50W.  Darrel A12
Skip wrote:
<snip>
A guy I was talking to at Baja Designs last week said that they do oil
analysis like we do in aviation, once a year, to compare oil blends. He said
that the SJ Mobil One, so far, has shown the same phosphorus and moly
content as the old Mobil One did. He said they were doing another one in a
couple of weeks and would fax me the results. That goes along with my Mobil
rep telling me that the SJ Mobil One wasn`t reduced as much as some of the
other synthetics.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Brian Schoonveld" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) using helmet lock
Date: 19 Mar 1999 01:03:21 -0500

I've been wondering about this issue ....... would it be worth it for
someone to cut the strap on my expensive Shoei full face helmet if I were to
leave it for awhile?   I assume it's possible to have a new strap put on,
and therefore potentially worth it for a shit head to steal it.   What's the
experience of other listr's on this issue?   I've asked a couple of guys I
know who have ridden for years, and they both said they've never had any
problems.  It would be nice not to have to lug it around, but maybe worth it
not to have to worry about it or be stranded with no noggin cover.
      Kind of on a similar issue ....... I've seen people put locks on their
brake rotors.   Why would you need to do this if you lock the steering?
....... Is the steering lock easy to break or something?

thanks,
Brian Schoonveld
Indianapolis IN
A13





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) using helmet lock
Date: 19 Mar 1999 01:13:13 -0500



Brian Schoonveld wrote:

>  would it be worth it for someone to cut the strap on my ... helmet

> I've seen people put locks on their brake rotors.   ...... Is the steering
> lock easy to break or something?
>

People steal all sorts of things for all sorts of reasons.  People shoplift
things that cost less than a dollar and yes, helment straps are cheap.  If you
lock your helment there is less of a chance that it will be gone when you get
back to your bike than if you just put it on the mirror.  The same goes for the
disk lock. It is just one more deterent.  I'm 6'3" and 230 pounds.  Two people
my size can pick your bike up and put it into a van or pickup.  (I've done it
with mine)  No matter how well you lock it, someone can steal it.  The key is to
make it a little less easy to steal than the next bike. (Sorry next guy) Because
I know how easy it is to pick the bike up I use a floresent orange disk lock.
It stands out and says "I'm trouble, skip me."  Most of the time I put my Dowco
cover on the bike to keep the casual observer from even getting interested.  The
steering lock alone leaves the bike looking unlocked and available.  -Tim





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Break In (NKLR)
Date: 18 Mar 1999 22:37:48 -0800

> But please don't baby it. It`s
> important that you break it in like you`re going to ride it. I doubt that
> you`ll stay below 4000 rpm ALL the time, so you may not take it
> to red-line,
> but at least break 5000 after you get the first 500 on it.
>
>
>   Skip

-------------

WHOOP WHOOP !!

Noooooo Problem Brother !!!!

Rik
    -----> never met a line I didn't cross... stupidity, curiosity, and
sometimes just plain lucky.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) using helmet lock
Date: 19 Mar 1999 02:16:34 EST

On 3/18/99, [e-mail] writes: snip

>would it be worth it for someone to cut the strap on my expensive
>Shoei full face helmet if I were to leave it for awhile?


 That depends on where you leave it. Some areas are obviously
 more prone to crime. I've lost two helmets in 25 years that way,
 including a Shoei on my klr 3 yrs ago. Anyone need a set of rings?

>[steering lock]

 It might be hard to believe anyone would steal a klr, but it happens.
 Except for coverage under a homeowners or renters policy, I would
 guess that most of us don't carry theft insurance. Those that do
 might find it doesn't cover accessories or mods without a rider.

 I've used a disk lock on occasion, but don't like lugging it around.
 There are many ways to make your bike less attractive to a thief.
 For instance, park next to a more popular bike and maybe they'll
 steal it instead of our goofy looking klr. The sad part is that biker
 will be out real money. Not the mere pittance asked for the klr.

 Excuse me. I'm going to go check on my bikes now. BRB

 Redondo Gone



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR...nude motorcycling..
Date: 19 Mar 1999 02:20:21 EST

On 3/18/99, [e-mail] writes: snip

>Our resident expert on this aspect of cycling has been very quiet
>as of late...Redondo?
>Kurt


 Judas! Joan's gonna kill me when she finds out I shared that
 story with you. OK, the cat's out of the bag. I offer my first
 hand, hard earned insight in hopes of sparing others pain.

 1) Everything's optional, but I wear a helmet. Skin grafts are
     no fun, but brain grafts haven't been perfected. Besides,
     if someone gets you on video and you don't have any large
     birthmarks, you can safely deny ever having been there.

 2) Avoid the exhaust system with any exposed, tender areas.

 3) Two up is the way to go here, IMHO. (Of course if your
     preference is solo, by all means enjoy.) Mount your pillion
     on the tank facing you. I can't say what your experience
     will be, but it made any felt vibration from the engine
     and any buffeting of the front fender completely disappear.

 4) Ride on the beach when possible. Sand stings in a get-off,
     but it doesn't hurt as much as gravel or asphalt. If you are
     cruising a nude beach, be sure to reposition your passenger
     behind you. You need an uninterrupted field of view. It's
     not socially acceptable to run over bathers, naked or not.

 Redondo Ron   ~~~surf's up!~~~





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Mission Failed (his, not mine)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 02:56:57 -0500

At 10:02 PM 3/18/99 -0700, Skip Faulkner wrote:

>Anyway, I didn't want to be a sheep and follow the KLR shepherd,
>thus my choice of the red "half-breed" F650.  If Skip weren't color-blind to
>begin with, he probably would not have chosen a '95 model. Yeah,
>"half-breed" red just can't compare with the "Caribbean-Splash" color
>scheme.

>Mollye Faulkner


Were we all just called SHEEP??  Where's Skip, really?  Kurt?  Anybody?

Stuart
KLR A12
Juno Beach, Florida
Getting ready to herd his Sheep to Prudhoe Bay...



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) using helmet lock
Date: 19 Mar 1999 02:19:04 -0800


>People steal all sorts of things for all sorts of reasons.  People shoplift
>things that cost less than a dollar and yes, helment straps are cheap.  If
you
>lock your helment there is less of a chance that it will be gone when you
get
>back to your bike than if you just put it on the mirror.  The same goes for
the
>disk lock. It is just one more deterent.  I'm 6'3" and 230 pounds.  Two
people
>my size can pick your bike up and put it into a van or pickup.  (I've done
it
>with mine)  No matter how well you lock it, someone can steal it.  The key
is to
>make it a little less easy to steal than the next bike. (Sorry next guy)
Because
>I know how easy it is to pick the bike up I use a floresent orange disk
lock.
>It stands out and says "I'm trouble, skip me."  Most of the time I put my
Dowco
>cover on the bike to keep the casual observer from even getting interested.
The
>steering lock alone leaves the bike looking unlocked and available.  -Tim
>


Two weeks ago, some shit head scattered my tool kit across my front yard,
and took my cheapo multitool across the street to try and break into my
neighbor's truck.  thankfully I found it and all my tools are still there.
I put a note in my tool that says if found, please return, blah blah blah,
reward, and I also said "If you stole these cheap tools that could have
possibly saved my life, then you are a fucking thief and I feel sorry for
you!"  Maybe the guilt might factor in for someone.  Who knows?

About the helmet lock, it would really suck to have to ride home with out a
helmet, because someone cut it off.  I have a really expensive Arai helmet,
and it came with a helmet bag, so I'm always carrying that around with me.
I kind of secure it to my rucksack with all my books and lunch.

With just the steering locked, I could roll the bike up into a truck by
myself, it would just take a while and a lot of sweat.  I always use a
Kryptonite U-shackle on the rear wheel and swing arm.

Lately I think that either I'm going crazy, or someone is messing with my
bike every day, because when I go to start up I notice the turn signal is
on, and I'm pretty sure I didn't leave it on.  Its a mystery.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Peter Dahlheimer, MD" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) first shift of the day
Date: 19 Mar 1999 06:35:00 -0500

that first shift of the day thing happens to my bike too sometimes,
particularly if it isn't being riddin every day or two, and when it's colder
out.  luckily, i live on top of a hill, so usually i start er up and roll
downhill, then shift into gear while moving with the clutch pulled in.
shell usually act as if the clutch is not in for a second, then itll slip
loose and behave after that.  i find that pulling the clutch in numerous
times before attempting to shift into gear helps.  also, remember to have
that brake applied if shifting into gear at a standstill!

_pete





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) using helmet lock
Date: 19 Mar 1999 07:18:44 -0500

I use a cobra link type lock and I've got a scorpio pager alarm system on my
KLX. Lets me know when someone is near the bike. Its not cheap, but its
better than losing all the money I've put into the bike. Bike covers are
also a really good idea. If they dont see it, they wont get interested.
Plain black covers dont look very appetizing.

-
Two weeks ago, some shit head scattered my tool kit across my front yard,
and took my cheapo multitool across the street to try and break into my
neighbor's truck.  thankfully I found it and all my tools are still there.
I put a note in my tool that says if found, please return, blah blah blah,
reward, and I also said "If you stole these cheap tools that could have
possibly saved my life, then you are a fucking thief and I feel sorry for
you!"  Maybe the guilt might factor in for someone.  Who knows?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR  Mission Failed (his, not mine)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 06:59:22 -0700

>>>>>Were we all just called SHEEP??  Where's Skip, really?  Kurt?  Anybody?


Baaaaaa...

Gino, I'd rather be a sheep than an ass.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Mission Failed (his, not mine)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 07:01:52 -0700

|>Anyway, I didn't want to be a sheep and follow the KLR shepherd,
|>thus my choice of the red "half-breed" F650.  If Skip weren't color-blind to
|>begin with, he probably would not have chosen a '95 model. Yeah,
|>"half-breed" red just can't compare with the "Caribbean-Splash" color
|>scheme.
|
|>Mollye Faulkner
|
|
|Were we all just called SHEEP??  Where's Skip, really?  Kurt?  Anybody?
|
|Stuart
|KLR A12

Hell, I feel like I'm always taking the lead...someone else step up...I can't believe we
couldn't help Skip find a KLR...I'm just worried she'll convert Dr. Moreau....it's terrible to
think what might happen...

Kurt A12
|Juno Beach, Florida
|Getting ready to herd his Sheep to Prudhoe Bay...
|
|




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) RE: Magnets in Oil
Date: 19 Mar 1999 09:13:39 -0500

Fred and others:

Thanks for showing me the light. I now know that a weak magnet is all I need on
my oil plug and if I see any big metal parts on the magnet to put the bike up
for sell ASAP.

Pat
Austin, Texas
1997 KLR650 w/11K miles




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Shift of the Day
Date: 19 Mar 1999 09:18:03 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 10:28:10 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Any others, fellow listers?
 >>
If correct oil viscosity and correct clutch adjustment doesn't fix it then,  I
believe that your going to have to clean your friction and driven plates in
the clutch basket. Any bike I ever had that did the "clunk thing" after
changing to the right oil and cable tension neede the plates to be scrubbed.
This is not something you have to live with.
Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 09:25:15 EST

In a message dated 3/18/99 11:09:33 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I'm just now pushing 500m and would hate to hear my conventional ideas of,
 "break in", are all bunk. --- aside from the fact that its been tougher than
 hell to stay under 4k. >>
When the motorcycle is assembeled at the factory, at the end of the line
someone starts it and speedballs it to the testing station where a probe is
stuck up its ...ah mufflers, and reved to red line for several seconds then
sent to you. Around town driving in the evening is probably the best breakin
for a bike because you are running up the rpm scale every time you shift and
you are breaking in all the parts while it is cool out.  Deceleration is
important too because it sucks oil up on the back side of the piston and
rings. Well thats my .02 worth, Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom McKenzie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Oil Chart
Date: 19 Mar 1999 07:09:08 -0800

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I came across this Oil Spec Chart today, and I assume it is reliable because
some of the information checks out with  oil company information I already
have. It is interesting and I hope useful to some of you.

http://www.trail.com/~jrabe/oil.html

Tom McKenzie
A13 and the weather in Victoria is getting better

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<DIV><SPAN class=3D270370515-19031999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial =
size=3D3>I came=20
across this Oil Spec Chart today, and I assume it is reliable because =
some of=20
the information checks out with  oil company information I already =
have. It=20
is interesting and I hope useful to some of you.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D270370515-19031999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial =

size=3D3></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><A=20
href=3D"http://www.trail.com/~jrabe/oil.html">http://www.trail.com/~jrabe=
/oil.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D270370515-19031999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial =

size=3D3></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D270370515-19031999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial =
size=3D3>Tom=20
McKenzie</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D270370515-19031999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial =
size=3D3>A13=20
and the weather in Victoria is getting =
better</FONT></SPAN></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jimmy James <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) unsubscribe
Date: 19 Mar 1999 10:08:03 -0500

unsubscribe




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] FREE KTM's
Date: 19 Mar 1999 10:32:24 -0500

KTM is running a special right now (you may have seen it advertised on
Speedvision). Here's the scoop:

    Buy a set of Michelins and a KTM jacket for $7500

        get an ADVENTURE for *FREE*!!!!!

    Buy a set of Michelins and a KTM jacket for $6600

        get an LC4 640 for *FREE*!!!!!!

Hard deals to pass up, hmmmm.......

Jake, lookin for a KTM dealer as you read this (not).



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: (klr650) Kenda 270
Date: 19 Mar 1999 10:17:10 EST

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In a message dated 3/18/99 8:21:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

> I just turned 5100 miles on my A12 and the rear stock tire is about toast...
> anyone have any
>  comments about the Kenda 270? I know Kurt Grife runs one and I saw one on
> the back of Mike
>  Sonzini's TransAlp...I'm looking at a picture and it looks pretty
good...and
> Kenda's are
>  usually inexpensive...

Its pretty durable for a semi-knobby and inexpensive, the only real negative
is cornering performance on the street.  It gets a little hairy when you lean
over and get on those big tread blocks on the outside.  I started using this
tire for Baja because it will last for a 3,000 mile trip (I'm talking about
the rear) which in my experience most knobbies won't.  I have had friends with
MT-21's go searching for a tire in La Paz because it was worn out after 1500
miles of rough riding.  There are similar tread tires from Cheng Shin and Gran
Sport but my friends who have used them say they are not as durable.  Also its
a 6-ply rating with very stiff sidewalls, I run them at 17/18 lbs off-highway
with no problems.
Regards,
Kurt Grife

--part0_921856630_boundary--



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) klr towing a trailer
Date: 19 Mar 1999 12:32:46 EST

tim- a klr can tow a trailer if its very light! like 60 lbs. or less! i've
built a one wheel trailer  to carry my bicycle and or my small ww kayak on. it
worked but the weight,
approx. 60 lbs. effected the handling to the point of being dangerous
(braking, or when you hit a bump at speed causing wobbles, etc.) plus there's
nothing on the klr
strong enough to attatch the tongue to (the luggage rack is wimpy, the
footpegs are also wimpy and the rear frame is also weak and will move (side to
side) with that kind of weight.  i would not recommend attatching it onto the
swing arm because it will rise and fall dramatically with the suspension. it
should be suspended. i abandoned the project because i couldn't afford to
build the trailer out of aluminum, with a super light wheel (hard to find) to
keep the weight down. i now carry my bicycle on the side of my klr or tow it
off the rear.  see photos at my web site at
http://members.aol.com/mschue5938/mschuette.html    or
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/mschue5938/mschuette.html">mschuette.html</A>
now maybe if you could figure out a way to use the canoe itself as a trailer,
that would eliminate much of the weight.  and bolt a wheel assembly off the
end of the canoe.
mark
"bicycle carriers for motorcycles"



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Fork Oil Volume (Damping Tweaking)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 09:39:20 PST

     Does anyone know the relationship between volume of fork oil to oil
     level within the fork tube?  In other words how many milliliters of
     oil do you add or subtract to cause a millimeter change in oil level?

     I want to try tweaking the oil level without tearing the caps off and
     getting out my Verniers every time I get the urge to make a change in
     damping.

     Rob




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 19 Mar 1999 18:46:58 +0000

So, my key is being a bit finicky about going into the ignition. Once
I settle it into the pins, it turns fine, but getting it in and out is a
bit of a bear. Is it ok for me to put WD40 on the key and use it to lube
up the pins? Or is that bad? Or is there a better commonly available
substance?

Sarah

--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 19 Mar 1999 12:01:52 -0700



>So, my key is being a bit finicky about going into the ignition. Once
>I settle it into the pins, it turns fine, but getting it in and out is a
>bit of a bear. Is it ok for me to put WD40 on the key and use it to lube
>up the pins? Or is that bad? Or is there a better commonly available
>substance?


I wouldn't hesitate to squirt WD in there but if you have a hunch you could try
graphite...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 11:15:49 -0800

>--------------    Skip Faulkner:
>   Also, keep in mind that you SHOULDN`T baby an engine during break-in. Run
>it hard and vary the rpms the first several hundred miles.
>--------------

I love these debates where the hardline (what you absolutely must or must
not do) covers the entire spectrum!  It basically means that you can do
whatever you want.....

Keep in mind that the redline for an airplane engine is typically a very
conservative 2500rpm while a motorcycle engine could rev 4 or 5 times that.
An airplane engine is operated in a very controlled and conservative
environment.  Considering that M/C engine idle is about 1500rpm, I'd
classify even the most ferocious aircraft break-in as "babying" compared to
a motorcycle.

I'd be easy on it for the first 500 miles.  Remember that on a new bike
you're breaking in the tranny and bearings too.  Also as with any new
assembly, there could be tranny-related flotsam/jetsam floating around in
there.  This is mixed in whith your engine oil!!!  What you want is to
dislodge this stuff and flush it out, and it would seem wise to be easy on
the engine during any "shakedown" period.

Tom

+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 19 Mar 1999 12:46:33 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>So, my key is being a bit finicky about going into the ignition. Once
>I settle it into the pins, it turns fine, but getting it in and out is a
>bit of a bear. Is it ok for me to put WD40 on the key and use it to lube
>up the pins? Or is that bad? Or is there a better commonly available
>substance?
>
>Sarah


I have used good 'ol WD in locks before with no ill effects.  There are
lubricants made just for locks out there.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 19 Mar 1999 12:54:06 -0700

>>Is it ok for me to put WD40 on the key and use it to lube
up the pins? Or is that bad? Or is there a better commonly available
substance?<<

You can use beer in a pinch ;-)

Gino, getting ready for April 1, Pokluda



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) first shift of the day
Date: 19 Mar 1999 17:53:36 -0500

It's really too bad Kawasaki still makes bikes without synchros.  My 1983
CR250 only needs the use of the clutch lever when pulling away from a stop.
As far as I know anyway...I don't take care of it too well.  Maybe I should,
it's hard to lean a bike that has its forks twisted in their mounts and a
bent frame.  Hehe, scared the hell out of me today when I spun out the rear
tire in 5th gear.  I love my bike :)
Stephen Rivett
oh yeah, as for fixing the shift lever, I did try to drill through it with a
3/32" bit but it snapped half way through the shaft (I was going to use coat
hangars for shear pins) so I used a short sheet metal screw and put it
through the lever and into the shaft a little bit.  Time will tell...

-----Original Message-----


>that first shift of the day thing happens to my bike too sometimes,
>particularly if it isn't being riddin every day or two, and when it's
colder
>out.  luckily, i live on top of a hill, so usually i start er up and roll
>downhill, then shift into gear while moving with the clutch pulled in.
>shell usually act as if the clutch is not in for a second, then itll slip
>loose and behave after that.  i find that pulling the clutch in numerous
>times before attempting to shift into gear helps.  also, remember to have
>that brake applied if shifting into gear at a standstill!
>
>_pete
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR - Bad dealer solution!
Date: 19 Mar 1999 17:00:34 -0000

How about compiling a petition of sorts, suggesting Kawi send their dealers
to Fred for a month of dealer training in Moab.  Sounds like a win/win
situation to me.  Fred, you've been volunteered!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V2 #152
Date: 19 Mar 1999 16:54:17 -0700

    This bit of advice has been in print (moto mags) for at least a
generation. Engine rebuilders, whose living depends on it, have been stating
the same for longer than that. WHY do the moto  manufacturers still give out
the low rpm line? The wife's Escort wagon's (stick) manual just said vary
the speed first 1k miles.  Bogdan

    - --------------    Skip Faulkner:
       Also, keep in mind that you SHOULDN`T baby an engine during
break-in. Run
    it hard and vary the rpms the first several hundred miles.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: NKLR(klr650) RE: klr650-digest V2 #152
Date: 19 Mar 1999 23:55:43 +0000

> The wife's Escort wagon's (stick) manual just said vary
> the speed first 1k miles.  Bogdan

A couple of weekends ago, some friends and I rented a car and drove it from LA
to San Francisco. Unfortunately, they gave us a Kia Sephia with only 22 miles.
We were just pulling into our final destination up in Napa when the car was
exiting its 600 mile break-in period. I fear that poor car won't have a long
and happy life. But it drove well, just like a rental. (Dirt roads, etc.
*smirk*)

Sarah


--
Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
There is a field.
I'll meet you there.
                -Rumi






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR - Bad dealer solution!
Date: 19 Mar 1999 17:09:25 -0700


    DON'T DO IT FRED!!! Remember " One Flew over the Cookoo's Nest" and
what shape that Jack Nickelson character, Red was in after he received that
frontal lobotomy!! Bogdan, who prefers the bottle before me.

    How about compiling a petition of sorts, suggesting Kawi send their
dealers
    to Fred for a month of dealer training in Moab.  Sounds like a
win/win
    situation to me.  Fred, you've been volunteered!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alan Henderson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) bad dealers
Date: 19 Mar 1999 18:20:46 -0600

>  In a fit of rage I told them to F**K **F and called a smaller dealer
that specialized in Suzuki....same
>answer...so I dropped by and prepaid or I'd be short one filler cap!
>Cheers,
>
>Vik
>
Must be some weird Canadian spelling. What is the sound of an asterisk? :)
                               Alan Henderson, Iowa A13





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Break-in
Date: 19 Mar 1999 17:12:24 -0800

-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


This bit of advice has been in print (moto mags) for at least a
generation. Engine rebuilders, whose living depends on it, have been stating
the same for longer than that. WHY do the moto  manufacturers still give out
the low rpm line? The wife's Escort wagon's (stick) manual just said vary
the speed first 1k miles.  Bogdan

======================================================================
   Also, keep in mind that you SHOULDN`T baby an engine during
break-in. Run
it hard and vary the rpms the first several hundred miles.



My '97 Valkyrie never had any break-in guide lines other than just go out
and ride the thing.  The dealer I bought it from said the same thing.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) bad dealers
Date: 19 Mar 1999 17:15:09 -0800

-----Original Message-----


>>  In a fit of rage I told them to F**K **F and called a smaller dealer
>that specialized in Suzuki....same
>>answer...so I dropped by and prepaid or I'd be short one filler cap!
>>Cheers,
>>
>>Vik
>>
>Must be some weird Canadian spelling. What is the sound of an asterisk? :)
>                               Alan Henderson, Iowa A13
>



It's what our Canada Geese do when they fly south for the winter... "Flock
Off"

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Lodging questionnaire
Date: 19 Mar 1999 17:10:25 PST

The final posting...

For those of you who may not know (reference my "Gimme Shelter" postings
from the end of December), I'm wanting to create a list of people who
are willing to provide a place to stay to touring or broken down folks.
If you're interested, e-mail a request to me and I'll send a
questionnaire to you in the form of a Word attachment.  If your computer
isn't download capable, send me a self-addressed stamped envelope and
I'll get one to you.  Please fill it out by hand and send it back to me,
as forms "filled out" by computer are kind of a drag to read.  I'll
accept the surveys until 31 March, with a target distribution date for
the finished list of 30 April.  Remember-- you can't use the list unless
you're on the list, so get involved!  Thanks to all of you for your time
and patience...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"
PSC 01, Box 2564
APO AA 34001
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Kenda 270
Date: 19 Mar 1999 20:43:58 EST

<< anyone have any comments about the Kenda 270? >>

I used to use one, but now run the Avon Gripster.  The K270 is very dirt
oriented and worked well in that capacity.  However, it was very noisy on
asphalt pavement.  The price was cheap (< $50) and the life expectancy may be
around 5000 miles.
Greg, A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: " Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 19:06:55 -0700

>Keep in mind that the redline for an airplane engine is typically a very
>conservative 2500rpm while a motorcycle engine could rev 4 or 5 times that.
>An airplane engine is operated in a very controlled and conservative
>environment.  Considering that M/C engine idle is about 1500rpm, I'd
>classify even the most ferocious aircraft break-in as "babying" compared to
>a motorcycle.
>
>I'd be easy on it for the first 500 miles.  Remember that on a new bike
>you're breaking in the tranny and bearings too.  Also as with any new
>assembly, there could be tranny-related flotsam/jetsam floating around in
>there.  This is mixed in whith your engine oil!!!  What you want is to
>dislodge this stuff and flush it out, and it would seem wise to be easy on
>the engine during any "shakedown" period.
>
>Tom
>

Tom,
   I`m glad you enjoy these. In a perfect world, aircraft would be operated
conservatively, but since we don`t , they aren`t. Rpm`s aren`t the only
issue, engine loading is (manifold pressure) and aircraft are take off at
full manifold pressure ( for the engine) and most operators abuse the climb
rate. You want severe use, watch what a training aircraft goes through in
the course of a day. Full power, throttle back, carb heat (to rich), descend
(shock cool), touch down at idle, carb heat off, full throttle again, all
this time operating at near max oil temps and thermally stressing the
engine. If trainers were run the way most motorcycles are, they`d be better
off.
    Turbocharged aircraft operate at anywhere from 32 to 41 inches manifold
pressure. Do you have any idea the stresses that are placed on the
drivetrain at these pressures?
    By the way, the average idle for a piston aircraft is 600 to 700 rpm.

  Anyway, the practice of the industry (motorcycle and auto) for as long as
I can remember has been to operate the new engine aggressively. Not abuse
it. Why do you think Kawasaki limits you to only 500 miles on a limited rpm
and leaves it at that? Because by that point you should be riding it as you
normally would, including the upper rpms. And yes there will be quite a bit
of metal floating around in the engine at break-in, therefore an oil change
at 500 and 1000 miles would be doing your engine a great service.
   I`m sorry I went this far into this. I recommend anyone not sure on
what`s best for break-in, call a reputable cycle shop that can back up their
recommendation with years of professional motorcycle experience. Not just
your local shops, but nationally recognized shops, like Baja Designs, or NW
Cycle (racing). Believe me, they`ll tell you the same thing.
     By the way, I was talking to Steve at KMM (Kawasaki Motor Manufacture)
where a lot of Kawasaki`s USA engines are made, in regard to the oil
research I was doing. In case you`re curious, the engines are shipped from
the factory with only storage oil in them. The oil is put in after the bike
is assembled, and then the initial run-in is done. He said in his opinion
that in the first 1000 miles or so, if the engine is not properly loaded up
regularly  and high enough internal temps aren`t reached, you could expect
abnormal oil consumption early on. My bike was broken in ( after the first
500) by periodic hard exceleration, no periods of idling (except for warm
up) and hitting past 6000 rpm periodically, and now with over 6000 miles ( I
just got this one last summer) I haven`t needed to add oil since my last oil
change (3000 miles). I ride my bike hard and since we don`t have a speed
limit yet, it`s hard not to tool around at 80 mph when going to work.
   Everybody`s got their own opinion and they should be considered.
Mine`s based on 22years of motorcycling and as a professional mechanic.
That`s why I say don`t take my word for it, check around.
     Tom, seriously, I like you man. I`m sorry we see things a little
different, but that`s okay, right. I`m like you in that unless I see a
reason or proof to change my ways, I`ll keep on the current course.

 Skip ( who agrees that always agreeing is boring





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dreas Nielsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V2 #151
Date: 19 Mar 1999 18:41:08 -0800

> -----Original Message-----
> Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 21:07:19 -0700
> From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: Re: (klr650) First Shift of the Day
>
> |This lurker finally has a question that necessitates exposure.
> |My A13 with 600 miles (yes, I have obeyed the break-in rules and have
> |had the valves adjusted and oil changed) does not like the first gear
> |engagement of the day
>
> No more lurking for you...welcome aboard...my experience was
> similar to yours...I stumbled on
> Bill's website and saw his KLR and thought "where has this bike
> been hiding"....
>
> About the first shift...I think it is pretty common...I let might
> warm for a few minutes and then pull the clutch in and blip a couple of
times let it out
> etc. then I upshift into second first...then down into first...still makes
an awful racket but it
> doesn't creep...the clutch plates are sticking together

My KLR600 started doing this occasionally after about 5 years, but usually
only if I let it idle for a couple of minutes after it had come up to
temperature.  Blipping the throttle and stomping the lever would prevent a
stall, although I'd usually grind a little gravel out from under the wheel.

Dreas Nielsen
Issaquah, WA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) FS Quality Engine R & D Lowering Links...
Date: 19 Mar 1999 20:00:33 -0700

My loss your gain. Quality Engine R & D Lowering Links, used 48 hours, complete with
instructions. Perfect condition. Reason for selling: too many people mistook my bike for an
F-650. First $80 plus shipping (normally $120) and they are yours.

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 20:13:57 -0800

 and hitting past 6000 rpm periodically, and now with over 6000 miles ( I
>just got this one last summer) I haven`t needed to add oil since my last
oil
>change (3000 miles). I ride my bike hard and since we don`t have a speed
>limit yet, it`s hard not to tool around at 80 mph when going to work.


Speaking of oil consumption on a probably improperly broken in engine
(22,000 miles, about 10-16 oz consumed about every 100 miles), does anyone
know of a good aftermarket oil additive that stops oil burning?  Not
something cheesy, but something that works.  She's running fine, except for
the oil burn, so I don't feel like rehoning the cylinder, replacing the
rings and valve guides yet.  Any advice on this will be appreciated, but
I'll be off the net for a week while I go to SOCAL to visit the family.
Hopefully I'll come back to find that a lively debate took place in my
absence.

Jeff--I love conflicts!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 20:14:14 -0800

>sent by Skip a little bit ago:

>    I`m sorry I went this far into this. I recommend anyone not sure on
> what`s best for break-in, call a reputable cycle shop that can
> back up their
> recommendation with years of professional motorcycle experience.

*****
Lets go ahead and NOT be sorry. You, my good man, along with the rest of the
fine folks on this most excellent of lists, have an obvious wealth of
information that the likes of myself are just dyin' to hear.
*****

>    Everybody's got their own opinion and they should be considered.
> Mine`s based on 22years of motorcycling and as a professional mechanic.
> That`s why I say don`t take my word for it, check around.
>  Skip ( who agrees that always agreeing is boring)

******
All opinions are good opinions (unless its mine...then its a great opinion).
I have yet to read a posting without some merit, different experiences and
environments shape differing opinions.

---- this list rocks, as do those who ride it.

Rik






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) heated grips, not Kimpex
Date: 19 Mar 1999 23:18:06 EST

Greetings;

   Recently there was a post about removable grip-heater wraps that plugged
into an accessory outlet on the KLR.   I'm very interested in those if you
could post the info again.  Thanks.

JohnPaul Gray
Dana Point CA

95 KLR650
94 ST1100

P.S.  humor follows:  -------- Another from
>Detroit: A pair of Michigan robbers entered a record shop nervously
>waving revolvers. The first one shouted, "Nobody move!" When his
>partner moved, the startled first bandit shot him.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 21:37:09 -0700



>
>Speaking of oil consumption on a probably improperly broken in engine
>(22,000 miles, about 10-16 oz consumed about every 100 miles), does anyone
>know of a good aftermarket oil additive that stops oil burning?  Not
>something cheesy, but something that works.  She's running fine, except for
>the oil burn, so I don't feel like rehoning the cylinder, replacing

>Jeff--I love conflicts!

Jeff,
   What weight oil are you currently using? Is it mineral or synthetic?
Synthetics cause high oil consumption in some bikes.
 If you`re using a light weight oil ( any of the 5W`s and 10W`s) switching
to a 20W base or a single grade has had good results in reducing oil
consumption in motorcycle engines. I has a riding buddy with a XT600 that
was burning a quart a tank and switched to Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40,
and cut his oil consumption in half. Delvac is recommended by Mobil as an
alternative for motorcycles. It was designed for diesels and severe use
gasoline engines. It has some thickening agents that help seal at the rings.
Keep in mind that the 15W`s and 20W`s (in mineral oils) have been said to be
horsepower robbers in motorcycles.
   I would try different oil weights before trying any additives. Beyond
that, I don`t know of any additives that have actually successfully, been
proven to reduce oil consumption without causing other problems ( like
galley starvation).

    Skip
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 21:55:33 -0700




>>sent by Skip a little bit ago:
>
>>    I`m sorry I went this far into this. I recommend anyone not sure on
>> what`s best for break-in, call a reputable cycle shop that can
>> back up their
>> recommendation with years of professional motorcycle experience.
>
>*****
>Lets go ahead and NOT be sorry. You, my good man, along with the rest of
the
>fine folks on this most excellent of lists, have an obvious wealth of
>information that the likes of myself are just dyin' to hear.
>*****
>
>>    Everybody's got their own opinion and they should be considered.
>> Mine`s based on 22years of motorcycling and as a professional mechanic.
>> That`s why I say don`t take my word for it, check around.
>>  Skip ( who agrees that always agreeing is boring)
>
>******
>All opinions are good opinions (unless its mine...then its a great
opinion).
>I have yet to read a posting without some merit, different experiences and
>environments shape differing opinions.
>
>---- this list rocks, as do those who ride it.
>
>Rik


Rik,
  Thanks for the comment, and I ditto the laurels of this List. I learn a
lot from the Listers, those with different opinions and even those that
disagree. The culmination of experiences and expertise of this List makes it
a fantastic resource not to be overlooked by KLRists. When a question or
commit makes me doubt a belief or opinion I hold, or disagrees with mine and
is plausible, it spurns me to do more research to find out which is more
accurate.
    This List is why it`s a shame my wife bought an F650.

Skip ( To be proven wrong is to learn)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 19 Mar 1999 21:11:29 -0800

Sarah
The guys at the lockshop have some liquid graphite that works great.  WD 40
won't hurt though.
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: D Webster <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) to subscribe?
Date: 19 Mar 1999 21:12:50 -0800 (PST)

I am a subscriber but I don't recall how I signed up. I have a friend KLR
rider who wants in. Thanks





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 19 Mar 1999 21:11:29 -0800

Sarah
The guys at the lockshop have some liquid graphite that works great.  WD 40
won't hurt though.
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) to subscribe?
Date: 19 Mar 1999 22:38:23 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>I am a subscriber but I don't recall how I signed up. I have a friend KLR
>rider who wants in. Thanks
>


http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page60.html

Just the Faqs MAN!

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR - aerostich/whitehorsepress
Date: 19 Mar 1999 23:04:10 -0800

With regards to how bad some of our dealer support has been I have to make a
comment on Aerostich and Whitehorse Press.  Living in Canada means I often
order things from the US.  I normally wait over a week to two weeks for
items and pay big shipping costs.  Since everything has to go through
customs I suppose I should just cope with the slow shipping.

However, everytime I order from Aerostich I get the damn order in three days
and its the right stuff at a reasonable shipping rate  They use UPS, but so
do the other companies I order from yet they get the order to me in record
time.  Their service is excellent and they are usually in stock.  Their
prices are not low, but on items like their roadcrafter suits or darien
outerwear I think its worth it - some of their less exotic items seem a bit
pricey, but not ridiculous.  Any I highly recommend them to anyone who needs
specialty motorcycle gear you can't get at home.

www.aerostich.com/aerostich

Whitehorse Press deserves the same customer service award.  They are
friendly quick (not as fast as Aerostich, but not bad), and ship the correct
order.  They have a great selection of books as well as some neat riding
accessories (luggage, camping gear, etc).  Well worth checking out.

www.whitehorsepress.com

For those who have never checked out these companies give them a once over -
you won't be disappointed.

Anyone else know of good mailorder suppliers for moto stuff?

Well besides (in keeping with the Star Wars theme) Fred Vader and his evil
credit card machine on the desert planet of Moab....(no offence Fred it not
your fault the lure of Darkside of the Force keeps attracting my wallet)...
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html

May the Force be with you........(but don't try that damn blindfold Jedi
trick while riding your KLR - at least not without medical insurance young
Jedi)


Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) heated grips, not Kimpex
Date: 19 Mar 1999 22:39:29 -0800

Not sure if you are talking about the velcro on ones from Aerostich or not.
I have those and they work great.  I picked up a set of Kimpex grip heaters
to try out as well.  I will put the Kimpex heaters on the GS and see how
they work.  I was happy with the velcro jobbers on my KLR, but for $22CDN I
thought I'd give the Kimpex heaters a shot.

I am not sure what other info you want on the velcro heaters so just mail me
any questions and I'd be happy to answer them.

Warm Grip Wraps # 102   - $37US (w/o on/off switch)
                                #103    - $47US (with on/off switch)

Aerostich  1-800-222-1994
www.aerostich.com/aerostich

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>Greetings;
>
>   Recently there was a post about removable grip-heater wraps that plugged
>into an accessory outlet on the KLR.   I'm very interested in those if you
>could post the info again.  Thanks.
>
>JohnPaul Gray
>Dana Point CA
>
>95 KLR650
>94 ST1100
>
>P.S.  humor follows:  -------- Another from
>>Detroit: A pair of Michigan robbers entered a record shop nervously
>>waving revolvers. The first one shouted, "Nobody move!" When his
>>partner moved, the startled first bandit shot him.
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 20 Mar 1999 01:22:50 EST

In a message dated 3/19/99 10:44:06 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Keep in mind that the 15W`s and 20W`s (in mineral oils) have been said to
be
 horsepower robbers in motorcycles. >>
This applies to plain bearing engines, the KLR 650 has at least 8 roller
bearings and fairly low pressure so a thicker oil may not rob any horsepower.
Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric & Jill Dietiker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Clutch levers
Date: 19 Mar 1999 22:49:02 -0800

Sheesh! Shame on you for letting reality intrude. I usually send my levers
off to Uri Geller (Gellar?). He never touches them (honest), and they come
back straight as can be.

Eric. :-), of course

-----Original Message-----


>I find this pretty hard to believe.  The levers are aluminum not steel.
>Aluminum melts quite a bit before it glows.  Steel is the opposite.
>Chris
>
>
>>
>>
>> >I staightened one once by heating it to a nice orange glow and quickly
>> >sandwiching it in a vice. I also once tried straightening one "cold"
with
>> >two pairs of pliers and the lever snapped in two.
>> >Mark
>> >B2
>> >A2
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Chart
Date: 20 Mar 1999 00:29:26 -0700

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    I came across this Oil Spec Chart today, and I assume it is reliable
because some of the information checks out with  oil company information I
already have. It is interesting and I hope useful to some of you.

    http://www.trail.com/~jrabe/oil.html

    Tom McKenzie
    A13 and the weather in Victoria is getting better


    Tom,
       That chart shows the old Mobil One 15W50 component levels. The new SJ
Mobil One has less than .11%ppm zinc.

    Skip

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 23:42:53 -0800

-----Original Message-----


>In case you`re curious, the engines are shipped from
>the factory with only storage oil in them. The oil is put in after the bike
>is assembled, and then the initial run-in is done.

Being in the break-in phase myself, I called the dealer that originally sold
my bike (to the guy that owned it for all of 27 kilometers).  They told me
that the bike came shipped to them with an oil in it that resembled tuna
fish oil.  The first thing they do at the shop is drain the oil and put in
fresh 10 - 40 wt.  The reason I initially called them was because the oil
level was at the bottom mark of the sight window.  Wanting to top it up, I
wanted to find out what they put in there.

Arne - who spent the day riding in 18 degree C. (55F) weather...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 19 Mar 1999 23:51:13 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>    This List is why it`s a shame my wife bought an F650.


This List is very much responsible for why I did buy a KLR!

Arne - To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is
research




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) bearings (NKLR)
Date: 20 Mar 1999 00:43:45 -0700



><< Keep in mind that the 15W`s and 20W`s (in mineral oils) have been said
to
>be
> horsepower robbers in motorcycles. >>



>This applies to plain bearing engines, the KLR 650 has at least 8 roller
>bearings and fairly low pressure so a thicker oil may not rob any
horsepower.
>Frank
>

Frank,
    I`ve no documentation, but I was told by my Timken rep ( they make
bearings for all applications,including engines) that while plain bearings
are more affected by heavy oil, rollers encounter enough resistance in
heavier weight oil as to raise load levels in most applications they`re used
in. But as to is it enough to not use heavier grades, I don`t know.

 Skip ( feeling a little sluggish myself)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 20 Mar 1999 00:48:15 -0700



>
>
>>In case you`re curious, the engines are shipped from
>>the factory with only storage oil in them. The oil is put in after the
bike
>>is assembled, and then the initial run-in is done.
>
>Being in the break-in phase myself, I called the dealer that originally
sold
>my bike (to the guy that owned it for all of 27 kilometers).  They told me
>that the bike came shipped to them with an oil in it that resembled tuna
>fish oil.  The first thing they do at the shop is drain the oil and put in
>fresh 10 - 40 wt.

>Arne - who spent the day riding in 18 degree C. (55F) weather...
>
>

Arne,
  You`re right. The oil that was in the bike when your dealer got it was the
run-in oil that`s put in when the bike is assemble and first run.

Skip






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Sacralege
Date: 20 Mar 1999 01:24:11 -0700

Pure evil sacrilege is what it is! I started this evening reading posts from
most recent up, and just came across my wife`s post.
My holy-of-holies has been defiled! The nerve of that woman.
Survey my foot. I`ll show her a survey. How about " Will an F650 run on
sugar-gas?"
   Now that my sarcasm at her (and her bike`s) expense has been discovered,
I`ll have to be more careful when it`s applied, say buried in the middle of
a too long oil post.
   No Stuart, she wasn`t referring to you guys ( both genders) as sheep. She
was referring to what SHE would be if she got a KLR just because I had one.
    To respond to e-mails thinking I`m too hard on my wife, let me assure
you, she can take care of herself. Besides that, she also happens to be my
best friend and we have fun at each others expense with full understanding
that it`s all in jest. When I first met her in college, she had her own
motorcycle ( Suzuki 120 dual range trail bike) and it was her only
transportation. I was hooked. A 19 year old girl with her own motorcycle,
and she knew how to ride it. We`ve put in a lot of miles together over the
years and she`s more than competent to pick herself a motorcycle. She really
does like the KLR650, she just wants to try out the F650.
So don`t worry, no divorce and we`re still madly in love, she`s just made
the biggest mistake of her life is all. Gino, send those Kawasaki decals.
   And by the way, I`m not colorblind. I have better taste in colors than
most, just ask Redondo Ron or Kurt.

   And yes, the KLR was comfy last night.

Skip ( it`s hard to sleep with a footpeg in your hip)






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Mission Failed (his, not mine)
Date: 20 Mar 1999 01:31:01 -0700

>
>Hell, I feel like I'm always taking the lead...someone else step up...I
can't believe we
>couldn't help Skip find a KLR...I'm just worried she'll convert Dr.
Moreau....it's terrible to
>think what might happen...
>
>Kurt A12



Don`t worry, I`m firm in my beliefs and have the strength of my faith. I`m
firmly entrenched and she`ll be the first to convert.

Skip (getting ready for the exorcism)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Chart
Date: 20 Mar 1999 01:33:18 -0700



>The text in the article from which the chart originates indicates the data
>is from 1991!
>
>Yours,
>
>Guy


Right. The API SJ standards weren`t adopted till 1996.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR Parts
Date: 20 Mar 1999 05:11:32 EST

Good Day

    There was someone requesting a parts for their KLR.
While reading and replying to your Email, my connection crashed.  The caused
you message to be lost.  AOL sees is as read, then deletes it.
    Please repost a message, I have some of those parts you're asking for.
My prices are 50% of what the salvages yards want, that would make it 30% the
cost of the original item.

    See ya



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 20 Mar 1999 02:38:00 -0800

>Jeff,
>   What weight oil are you currently using? Is it mineral or synthetic?
>Synthetics cause high oil consumption in some bikes.
> If you`re using a light weight oil ( any of the 5W`s and 10W`s) switching
>to a 20W base or a single grade has had good results in reducing oil
>consumption in motorcycle engines. I has a riding buddy with a XT600 that
>was burning a quart a tank and switched to Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40,
>and cut his oil consumption in half. Delvac is recommended by Mobil as an
>alternative for motorcycles. It was designed for diesels and severe use
>gasoline engines. It has some thickening agents that help seal at the
rings.
>Keep in mind that the 15W`s and 20W`s (in mineral oils) have been said to
be
>horsepower robbers in motorcycles.
>   I would try different oil weights before trying any additives. Beyond
>that, I don`t know of any additives that have actually successfully, been
>proven to reduce oil consumption without causing other problems ( like
>galley starvation).
>


OK, so I've been running the Castrol Syntec blend, 20w-50.  I tried the full
Syntec, but I noticed clutch slippage under full throttle applications in
the high rpm's.  The Syntec blend seemed to give me the easy shifting
without the clutch slippage.  But I've noticed the clutch slip with the
blend sometimes too.  I don't ride that hard very often, as mostly every day
my bike is my transportation and I want to get as many miles out of it as I
can before having to work on it.  I was thinking about fixing the clutch
(trying new springs first to see if that worked) and going with a full
synthetic again, but now that you said that about increased consumption of
synthetics, I'm thinking twice.

I might have exaggerated the rate of consumption.  Its hard to gauge,
because I check it every other morning or so, and if its below the top of
the glass I add oil.  I'm loath to let the oil level get lower so I can
gauge the rate of consumption.  I haven't noticed any visible smoke or
anything, but I have noticed my white fender turned black from soot from the
muffler.

I'm really hoping that the bike will go through the summer and fall, so I
can work on it in the winter.

Anyone else had this problem?  I'm thinking that the proper fix is a
cylinder hone, new rings, new valve guides and re-lapping the valves in the
seats?  Am I missing something here?  If it were a VW engine, I'd port and
polish the intakes and flycut the head too, just to get a bit more oomph
out.  I'm going to have to spend some time going over the manual (for what
that's worth) and see the particulars about the tolerances.

Jeff---who should be packing for his trip tomorrow.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Good dealers, bad dealers
Date: 20 Mar 1999 06:21:49 -0500


We have pretty good dealers around where I live.
Dutchess Recreational vehicles is a "superplex dealership". Great prices on
new bikes. But I don't used them for parts as they are an hour-plus ride
away.
Cycle motion is a Kawasaki/Triumph dealer. Really nice guys, but you really
have to push hard to get a decent price on a bike. I use them mainly for
parts and tire mounting, since they're 15 mins away.
I know, I know, I should the same dealer for both bikes and parts.
But I use the best place to provide whatever I looking for. Just like with
everything else.
But now I found Fred Hink, so......sorry Cycle Motion, lololol.
NY Pete




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (klr)- dealer rec. oils
Date: 20 Mar 1999 06:41:33 -0500

I've read most, but admitedly not all, the posts about oils, and I honestly
might have missed it but, 2 of my local dealer/ parts suppliers have
suggested my using Maxima- Maxum-4 synthetic blend 15w50 in my KLR 650. The
reasoning you might find a bit unusual....
I'm told I should use this oil because, unlike most people, I actually ride
OFF-ROAD! Alot of high RPM, and clutch slipping going on. Imagine that, a
dual-purpose actually used like a dual-purpose. Actually I ride, acording to
my odometer more than half the time off-road, or about 100 to 125 miles a
week, the rest, at this point, just poking around locally. I'm actually
thinking of going "full-knobby" on my tires since the street oriented tires
just don't cut it.
Anywho..... This is what I use, and I think it works pretty well. No
problems so far. Any thoughts?
NY Pete




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) bad dealers
Date: 20 Mar 1999 06:45:51 -0500

As a member fo both lists, I see even the Coggers complaining of
"lack-of-service", but just like here, the lists represent the best source
for all-around support of the bikes we love. And most of us do our own
service, buying bikes from the lowest cost dealer, often hundreds of miles
away, then buying maintenence parts from a local whom we can deal with.
That's just the way it goes I guess.
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; [e-mail] <[e-mail]>;
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>It is incredible to me how many incompetent dealers there are in the
>motorcycle market in North America.  And the bottom line is that it is our
>fault for tolerating it.  When you have a bad dealer experieice, you should
>tell the manager, owner, or both.  And you should tell them in person and
in
>writing.  And you should tell the service arm of the manufacture, Kaw,
Honda,
>BMW, whoever it is.
>
>We are too tolerant of bad dealers.  We need to learn how to do most of the
>basics ourselves, just to know the bike is mechanically sound and safe.
>
>This web site is a great place to post your honest experiences with
dealers.
>I beleive that the dealers should be named .  And we should also post
positive
>experiences with dealers so that the good ones can be identified and proud.
>More dealers should be on line with us.  I wonder how the Concours Group
guys
>handle dealer incompetence.
>
>Face it, it won't get better until the consumer hurts the dealers pocket
book.
>If you have a good dealer, treasure him and support him.  If you have a bad
>dealer, tell him and ask him if he intends to get better in the area that
>concerns you.  Give him a second chance if you are comfortable.  But if he
>displays incompetence again, find someone else.
>
>Mr. Do it yourself
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) bearings (NKLR)
Date: 20 Mar 1999 08:17:57 EST

In a message dated 3/20/99 1:50:07 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< that while plain bearings
 are more affected by heavy oil, rollers encounter enough resistance in
 heavier weight oil as to raise load levels in most applications >>
Skip, you're probably right, the point was that a viscosity increase from
10w40 to 15w50 may not significantly affect the KLR  as much, however, the
cams still run on machined aluminum in the head and we have wet clutches, both
operate better with lower viscosity. Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) pro grip gels ?
Date: 20 Mar 1999 07:31:55 -0600

Arne Larsen wrote:

<snip>...the "purple", dimpled Pro-Grip gel grips...<snip>


I just got sent a set of 'Pro-grip gels' in a 'purple' box, but they
have rectangular markings on them.  They said they had two kinds, these
were about $4. more.  Did I get the wrong ones?  (...Is there a 'wrong'
set ??)

Just thought I should ask as I was going to put 'em on this weekend.

Yes, it's almost riding time in Saskatchewan!!  <HUGE GRIN>

Oh, ya, how 'bout them 'velcro?' grip heaters?  Is that something that
wraps AROUND the grips, so can be added at any time?  It seemed that
there is another type (??) that (I could be wrong here) slipped under
the grip (??) so would have to be put on with the grips (??)

hungree



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 20 Mar 1999 08:33:23 EST

In a message dated 3/20/99 4:32:59 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Jeff---who should be packing for his trip tomorrow. >>
Jeff, have a good trip! usually, a big bore single and twins can glaze their
rings when they are lugged and the engine is not revved freely, especially
during break-in. The only Moto Guzzi 850 I ever saw that used oil from early
stages belonged to an over the road trucker who could not (in clear
conscience) rev his bike past 3,000 and always lugged and short shifted. After
the second set of rings and a hone, we sent our hot dog wrench out on it to
flog it a bit before our trucker got his hands on it again. that did  it.
Piston rings seal by pressure being exerted on the top and behind the ring,
both on compression and deceleration and if the ring grooves get gummed up
they won't seal.
In the old days we would try some Marvel Mystery oil in the engine and run the
cr** out of it, sometimes it worked, sometimes not. Also the soot on your
fender may be gas soot if the air cleaner is too heavily oiled or dirty or if
there has been rejeting.
Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (klr)- dealer rec. oils
Date: 20 Mar 1999 06:42:32 -0700


-----Original Message-----


I actually ride
>OFF-ROAD! Alot of high RPM, and clutch slipping going on.
<snip>
I'm actually
>thinking of going "full-knobby" on my tires since the street oriented tires
>just don't cut it.


Sounds like you are ready for some Pirelli MT21s on the rear and a Dunlop
K139 on the front.  This is my tire combination of choice for a DOT knob
set-up.  Works great and lasts long.  Kinda like me on a good day.  ;<)

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) pro grip gels ?
Date: 20 Mar 1999 06:50:39 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Arne Larsen wrote:
>
><snip>...the "purple", dimpled Pro-Grip gel grips...<snip>
>
>
>I just got sent a set of 'Pro-grip gels' in a 'purple' box, but they
>have rectangular markings on them.  They said they had two kinds, these
>were about $4. more.  Did I get the wrong ones?  (...Is there a 'wrong'
>set ??)


Pro Grip makes all kinds of grips.  The ones that are most popular with the
DS crowd are the model 714.  Grips are a personal choice, whatever works for
you is the correct grip.

>Just thought I should ask as I was going to put 'em on this weekend.
>
>Yes, it's almost riding time in Saskatchewan!!  <HUGE GRIN>
>
>Oh, ya, how 'bout them 'velcro?' grip heaters?  Is that something that
>wraps AROUND the grips, so can be added at any time?  It seemed that
>there is another type (??) that (I could be wrong here) slipped under
>the grip (??) so would have to be put on with the grips (??)

I sell the Enduro Engineering grip heaters that fit under your grips.
about $26


Fred





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Sacralege
Date: 20 Mar 1999 07:35:59 -0700




|Pure evil sacrilege is what it is! I started this evening reading posts from
|most recent up, and just came across my wife`s post.
|My holy-of-holies has been defiled! The nerve of that woman.
|Survey my foot. I`ll show her a survey. How about " Will an F650 run on
|sugar-gas?"


We were hoping you would come around...we've been remarkably restrained waiting for you to tend
to this domestic outrage (g)....

Kurt (baaaaaa)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Parts
Date: 20 Mar 1999 07:43:47 -0700



|Good Day
|
| There was someone requesting a parts for their KLR.
|While reading and replying to your Email, my connection crashed.  The caused
|you message to be lost.  AOL sees is as read, then deletes it.
| Please repost a message, I have some of those parts you're asking for.
|My prices are 50% of what the salvages yards want, that would make it 30% the
|cost of the original item.
|
| See ya


Why not post to the list a summary of the parts you have and prices...I'm wanting some good
wheels

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dreas Nielsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V2 #155
Date: 20 Mar 1999 07:24:06 -0800

> -----Original Message-----
> Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 23:04:10 -0800
> From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: (klr650) NKLR - aerostich/whitehorsepress
>
> With regards to how bad some of our dealer support has been I
> have to make a
> comment on Aerostich and Whitehorse Press.  Living in Canada means I often
<snip>
> However, everytime I order from Aerostich I get the damn order in
> three days
> and its the right stuff at a reasonable shipping rate  They use
> UPS, but so
> do the other companies I order from yet they get the order to me in record
> time.  Their service is excellent and they are usually in stock.  Their
> prices are not low, but on items like their roadcrafter suits or darien
<snip>

After I started wearing my Roadcrafter regularly in the rain here in the
(regularly rainy) Northwest, I found that there was one spot just a couple
of inches below the zipper stormflap on my left leg where I was regularly
getting water entering.  I called Aerostich to ask if they would customize
the suit by extending the stormflap.  They told me that they could not, but
recommended liberal application of seam sealer over the zipper tape in that
region.  Two days later I got, by UPS, a tube of seam sealer from Aerostich.
No charge.

I stongly second Vik's recommendation of Aerostich.

Dreas Nielsen
Issaquah, WA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pippo Nicotera <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 20 Mar 1999 11:32:51 +0100

Hello' Ted and dear fellow listers...

On 10-Mar-99, Ted Palmer wrote:

> Yo Listers,
> Now that I've lashed out and bought a Dynojet kit in anticipation of
> some mixture correction on Big Red, I'm wondering if there are any
> 600-mounted users of DJ kits out there who might want to share jet
> settings?

As you probably recall, I bought a DJ kit (Plus a 650 K&N Filter and
Supertrapp IDS exhaust) for my '90 KLR 600. I, at this date, have the DJ kit
installed strictly as per the DJ instructions about tuning it with the K&N
and the IDS (IDS currently with 10 disks). I didn't have time to experiment
that much (The carb on the 600, you know that, is less accessible than on
the 650: it's difficult to turn it and work on it without removing the whole
thing from the bike... at least on the ES version!) and have made just some
short rides around the block to verify everything was ok! I can tell for
sure there is an improvement, but to get the bike wheelie clutchless in
first gear, I have to time the throttle opening very carefully vs. RPM or
otherwise, close the throttle and then open it suddenly. I can wheelie the
bike clutchless in first at will with a moderate tug on the handlebar while
accelerating. Keep in mind that, even if I used the DJ settings for K&N
filter and free flowing aftermarket exhaust, I still haven't the K&N on my
bike because adapting the 650's filter to the 600 it's proving a bit
difficult (I think I'll succeed, anyway)... I have made some test runs
removing the air filter and I believe this can be a good approximation (Am I
wrong here?) I'm not an expert... I work with Medical Instruments, not
Engines, but I'm getting a lot of fun torturing my mount and, all in all, I
feel that the whole operation was worth both the money and the time spent.

Other must-have items are in the process to be added to my bike as per The
List command, so the fun is not over yet.

Most of the items have been supplied by the Mighty Fred (Hi Fred! Sorry for
your leg! Heal quickly and steer clear of Doctors ;-)) with excellent
service.

Ciao Ted...

Best Regards from Pippo, "The Horse With No Name", in Italy!
Long Live to the K'LR!!!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pippo Nicotera <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Shipping Information
Date: 20 Mar 1999 17:03:38 +0100


On 17-Mar-99, Lehn, Barbara wrote:

> Dear Mr. Nicotera,
>
> In response to your request, I have listed below the shipping information
> for the two (2) boxes of patient circuits shipped yesterday, 3/16/99, via
> DHL.
>
> 1 box    Patient Circuits        AB#8687523902
> 1 box    Patient Circuits        AB#8687524042

Dear Mrs. Barbara...

Thank you for the info... we are now dealing with DHL and Cavalier to get
the items at our office...

Best regards... Giuseppe Nicotera, Italy




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Mercer <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650 Fork Oil Volume
Date: 20 Mar 1999 08:25:48 -0800 (PST)


>     Does anyone know the relationship between volume of fork oil to oil
>     level within the fork tube?
>
>
> One ounce of oil will raise the level in the fork tube of a KLR about 1.25
inches.

Eric Mercer
B2




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Thomas Ingram" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)Tank Bags
Date: 20 Mar 1999 09:45:55 -0800


I am using an Eclispe tank bag, which mounts using straps that stay on the
bike at the steering head and front of the seat.  The bag then mounts with
plastic clips to these straps, so it is easily removable.  The bag is
designed to mount with the single clip at the rear and the two clips at the
front, but on the KLR650, this has to be reversed.  It works very well,
though.  This was recommended to me by Arden Kysely (sp?), and I am very
satisfied.

I also have an Eclipse magnetic bag, purchased last year to use on my Suzuki
1500 LC, but have not tried it on the KLR650.

Tom Ingram
Montrose, CO
1992 KLR650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (NKLR)  Ah the Navy
Date: 20 Mar 1999 08:51:09 -0800

A friend of mine sent me this excerpt.  There are so many Canadians on this
list I thought I might share it with you.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I
did.

Obstinate at Sea
What follows is a transcript of the ACTUAL radio conversation between a U.S.
naval ship and Canadian authorities off the coast of Newfoundland.

Canadians:  Please divert your coarse 15 degrees to the south to avoid a
collision.
Americans:  Recommend you divert  your course 15 degrees to the north to
avoid a collision.
Canadians:  Negative. You will have to divert your course to the south to
avoid a collision.
Americans:  This is the Captain of a U.S. Navy ship.  I say again, divert
YOUR course.
Canadians:  No I say again, you divert YOUR course.
Americans:  THIS IS THE AIRCRAFT CARRIER USS LINCOLN, THE SECOND LARGEST
                    WARSHIP IN THE UNITED STATES ATLANTIC FLEET.  WE ARE
                     ACCOMPANIED BY THREE DESTROYERS, THREE CRUISERS AND
                     NUMEROUS SUPPORT VESSELS. I DEMAND THAT YOU CHANGE YOUR
                     COURSE 15 DEGREES NORTH.  I SAY AGAIN, THAT'S ONE FIVE
DEGREES
                     NORTH, OR COUNTER-MEASURES WILL BE TAKEN TO INSURE THE
                     SAFETY OF THIS SHIP!
Canadians:  This is a LIGHTHOUSE. Your call.

Morgan
Life is too short to take ANYTHING too seriously!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alan Henderson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Shipping Information
Date: 20 Mar 1999 11:07:50 -0600

At 05:03 PM 3/20/99 +0100, you wrote:
>
>On 17-Mar-99, Lehn, Barbara wrote:
>
>> Dear Mr. Nicotera,
>>
>> In response to your request, I have listed below the shipping information
>> for the two (2) boxes of patient circuits shipped yesterday, 3/16/99, via
>> DHL.
>>
>> 1 box    Patient Circuits        AB#8687523902
>> 1 box    Patient Circuits        AB#8687524042
>
>Dear Mrs. Barbara...
>
>Thank you for the info... we are now dealing with DHL and Cavalier to get
>the items at our office...
>
>Best regards... Giuseppe Nicotera, Italy
>
Very interesting! Who is this mysterious "Mrs. Barbara..." and what are
these strangely labeled parts?
Sounds like some kind of high tech experimental parts for the KLR. :)
Alan Henderson, Iowa A13




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR...Tom's R100GS Part IV...
Date: 20 Mar 1999 13:38:52 EST

I have saved your tale until I could give it it's due.  Thoroughly enjoyed it
this rainy morning with a cup of java.  Thanks for the story, and yes I had
been thinking about a 100GS for an Alaska trip.  I will now reconsider, maybe
the Yamaha TDM.  Who knows, after Moab, I may even find I can run the KLR up
there.

Cheers

John PaulGray
Dana Point CA

94 ST1100
95 KLR650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kraka <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Homemade Tank Bags/Luggage
Date: 20 Mar 1999 12:41:55 -0600

Just a thought to share with my KLR conpadres y conmadres,

I will be constructing tank bags (3way) and side luggage
(3way) by altering some GI Buttpacks. I was able to buy them
cheap from a Army/Navy Surplus Store. I got six for about ~$30.
They are "medium" sized and rugged. They will work nicely
on mybeloved A13.

The buttpacks will require minimal harnessing modifications.
These mods. will require some nylon belts (same material as
seat belts) and a little custom sewing.  Total capital
investment will be about $45. Labour cost will be N.A. cuz
I will not charge myself labor. ;-)

If anyone is interested in seeing the final results and/or
finalize designs, I would be willing to share them with you.

The bags are now colored with typical military O.D.
green. I will be looking into a way to dye them black
(if possible). Due to the general paranoia of the American
Public, I do not recommend hitting the road with this
luggage in its original colour and markings. The afore
mentioned paranoid masses will think you are a militia kook.

The final result will have two buttpacks draping over the
sides of the tank with one buttpack sitting between and on
the seat and gastank (3way-front). The rear will have
two buttpacks draping over the side plastic (and avoiding
the tail pipe) with the center buttpack sitting on the
luggage rack.

I am all ears for your opinions/suggestions.


Thanks,
Da Kraksta
A13 5k+ miles



seat and



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) <NKLR> Upcoming events...
Date: 20 Mar 1999 11:01:50 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


    Thought this might interest some of you looking for a ride or two
this year...

http://www.all-offroad.com/DirtBikes/DualSport/DSEvents.html

Brian

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begin:vcard
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email;internet:[e-mail]
fn:Brian Bonenfant
end:vcard

--------------F5B60B027D25420B8BFD75C8--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR...Tom's R100GS Part IV...
Date: 20 Mar 1999 13:02:09 -0700




>I have saved your tale until I could give it it's due.  Thoroughly enjoyed
it
>this rainy morning with a cup of java.  Thanks for the story, and yes I had
>been thinking about a 100GS for an Alaska trip.  I will now reconsider,
maybe
>the Yamaha TDM.  Who knows, after Moab, I may even find I can run the KLR
up
>there.
>
>Cheers
>
>John PaulGray
>Dana Point CA
>
>94 ST1100
>95 KLR650
>

John,
   Even though I had a 95` R100GS awhile, for an Alaska trip, I would prefer
my KLR. I`ve made the trip once on Honda XL500, and several partial runs
from both directions on various other bikes, including my KLR. Keep in mind,
that depending on your route, if you take any of the heavier graveled
sections ( there are quite a few, if you want some adventure) the lighter
the bike, the better. In my case ( 5'6" , 155 lbs. ) , the R100GS loaded was
a real handful in the loose stuff, especially at speeds. The KLR was a lot
easier and more fun. I was carrying quite a load also.
   While I almost bought a TDM to modify for DP use, I backed off because I
just wasn`t going to be able to shed enough weight.
     If you`re a larger person, it might work out for you, but since you
already own a KLR, use it, it`s more than capable for the trip.

 Skip ( who`s owned a lot of bikes, but the KLR has proven
             to be the best all-round of them all )




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Mercer <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650 Fork Oil Volume
Date: 20 Mar 1999 12:12:20 -0800 (PST)


>>     Does anyone know the relationship between volume of fork oil to oil
>>     level within the fork tube?
>>
>>
>> One ounce of oil will raise the level in the fork tube of a KLR about
1.25 inches.
>
>Eric Mercer
>B2
>
My apologies, my answer was incomplete. One ounce will raise the level 1.25
inches with springs removed; and 1.5 inches with springs installed.

Eric




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Tank Bags
Date: 20 Mar 1999 13:10:13 -0700

   ...........< snip>
front, but on the KLR650, this has to be reversed.  It works very well,
>though.  This was recommended to me by Arden Kysely (sp?), and I am very
>satisfied.
>
>I also have an Eclipse magnetic bag, purchased last year to use on my
Suzuki
>1500 LC, but have not tried it on the KLR650.
>
>Tom Ingram
>Montrose, CO
>1992 KLR650


Tom,
   I have the magnetic Eclipse also( Contour) and it works great on the KLR.
It`s easier to remove for fueling ( unclip safety strap and lift off ) and
I`ve had no problems with it coming off, loaded and on rocky Forest Service
roads. It works well with the Aerostich tank panniers when you use Gino`s
method of placing the straps forward of the tank.

Skip (who`s glad for a metal tank)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) POWER
Date: 20 Mar 1999 12:18:46 PST

Hello.

I recenty bought a 1992 KLR 650, but immediately reckoned it lacked a
lot of
what makes riding a motorcycle so wonderful, POWER.

So I replaced the stock engine with a inline fourcylinder from a ZX-11.
A lot of work had to be done to fit the new engine to the KLR frame, but
it was worth it.

Acceleration and topspeed improved a lot, and highspeed wheelies are so
much easier to accomplish.

The frame is not made for such a strong engine (150 bhp), but wobbling
is a challange to every true rider.

Has anyone tried anything like this besides me??

Nick

Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR Headlight Bulb removal
Date: 20 Mar 1999 15:21:38 -0500

It would seem easy, but I can't pull my headlight bulb out.  It the 'golden'
colored metal ring appears stuck.

Any tips?

Pat
Austin, Texas
1997 KLR650 w/11.1K miles




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) RE: Headlight bulb removal
Date: 20 Mar 1999 15:40:00 -0500

>>>>It would seem easy, but I can't pull my headlight bulb out.  It the
'golden' colored metal ring appears stuck.

Any tips?<<<<

Never mind.

Pat
Austin, Texas
1997 KLR650 w/11.1K miles




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)  POWER
Date: 20 Mar 1999 13:36:41 -0700




>Hello.
>
>I recenty bought a 1992 KLR 650, but immediately reckoned it lacked a
>lot of
>what makes riding a motorcycle so wonderful, POWER.
>
>So I replaced the stock engine with a inline fourcylinder from a ZX-11.
>A lot of work had to be done to fit the new engine to the KLR frame, but
>it was worth it.
>
>Acceleration and topspeed improved a lot, and highspeed wheelies are so
>much easier to accomplish.
>
>The frame is not made for such a strong engine (150 bhp), but wobbling
>is a challange to every true rider.
>
>Has anyone tried anything like this besides me??
>
>Nick
>

Nick,
   I did try one engine swap. Wanting power as well as economy, I installed
a Renault-Moraine horizontally opposed 4 cylinder ( the 6 cylinder require
to much lengthening of the frame) turbo-diesel in my KLR. There was quite a
weight change, as it`s
 water-cooled ( 325lbs.) but my range per tank increased to 125 mpg. The
main problem was that because of the unbelievable torque increase, the first
time I tried a wheelie, the rear frame and swingarm twisted to a 45 degree
angle, which left me with a problem. This was even after a complete frame
beef-up ( 3x3 square tube moly all around and 4" I-beams for swing arms).
Besides that, I was burning the soles of my boots off since they had to rest
on top of the cylinders ( which put my knees level with the top of the
tank), but that could be remedied. Engine noise was also a problem.
   Needless to say, that one didn`t work too well. I`m trying an inline 4
cyl. turbo diesel out of my Trooper next time.

 Skip ( power and economy, always a grasp away)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) definitely NKLR POWERED
Date: 20 Mar 1999 15:54:29 EST

On 3/20/99, [e-mail] writes: snip

>So I replaced the stock engine with a inline fourcylinder from a ZX-11.
>A lot of work had to be done to fit the new engine to the KLR frame,
>but it was worth it....Has anyone tried anything like this besides me?

 You're an animal Nick. I haven't heard anyone say they added cylinders.
 But I would love to see your bike. Any pictures you can send to me?
 And don't worry. This group is very friendly. No one will think
 any less of you or your bike...now that it's not a thumper.

 Redondo Ron (just a friendly, inquisitive fellow lister)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) heated grips, not Kimpex
Date: 20 Mar 1999 13:55:13 -0700


John,

I work for myself so no fear I am not pimping their products. =)

I wired the grips directly to my battery with an 10A inline fuse.  The
aerostich kit comes with a plug, but I have no idea what the proper name for
it is.  The Kimpex kit does not come with a plug, but since the grips
heaters are part of your bike its not like you'll be taking them off
regularly.

Cheers,

Vik

-----Original Message-----


>Vik;
>
>   Thank you so much for the post; it's exactly what I was looking for.  Do
>you work for them?    How did you set up the accessory plug; I've heard
that
>the John Deere plug works best.
>
>Cheers,
>
>John Paul Gray
>Dana Point CA
>
>95 KLR650
>94 ST1100





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Brake Lines
Date: 20 Mar 1999 15:59:39 EST

Tried out my brakes today with the russell SS lines (w/plastic coating) front
is excellent, can lock up the wheel, the rear is a minimual improvement, think
due to smaller line from master cylinder to fluid tank, has anyone changed
this line, does it help.   Lines fit perfect, Mike at Dual-Star indicated that
they are designing a new mount for the rear master cylinder as the factory one
cracks and can come apart on a fall or if you bend the brake pedal, anyone
ever have problems with the mount.  He said that they will make it from a
heavy SS.

Larry



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Reducing oil burning
Date: 20 Mar 1999 17:42:52 +1000

Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:

[...]
> Speaking of oil consumption on a probably improperly broken in engine
> (22,000 miles, about 10-16 oz consumed about every 100 miles), does anyone
> know of a good aftermarket oil additive that stops oil burning?
[...]

Just to begin with, try a different oil.
My 600 noticably uses oil these days. At one stage I tried some Penrite
25W-60 (labelled as "Endurolube" and angled toward big single bikes).
With the Penrite it burned more than it would have with what I was
using at the time (can't remember now what that was).
I guess that the Endurolube was designed for hot running aircooled
singles, and was too thick for the rings to wipe off my water
cooled sleeves.

Even oils of the same viscosity rating but different maker burn off
at different rates.
My Honda RC17 seems to like Pennzoil 20W-50, while running Shell
semi-synthetic 20W-50 burned off at a truly alarming rate, especially
on its most recent dyno run, producing frightening clouds of smoke.
A cohort tried Pennzoil and it burned off more than full synthetic
Shell in _his_ RC17.

Try a different brand, or try something a bit thicker or thinner and
see what happens.
Every bike is different, like oils.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 20 Mar 1999 17:50:23 +1000

Sarah Barwig wrote:

[...]
> Is it ok for me to put WD40 on the key and use it to lube
> up the pins? Or is that bad? Or is there a better commonly available
> substance?

Considering there is an electrical switch under it, maybe something
like CRC 2-26 (or some other similar electrical gadget lube) might
be theoretically better than WD40 or CRC 5-56 or similar.

No harm in using a _little_ bit of graphite, either.
I guess the graphite would be a cheap option to start with, home
hardware stores always have little puff packs of graphite for a couple
of dollars.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Brake Lines
Date: 20 Mar 1999 14:45:00 -0700


|this line, does it help.   Lines fit perfect, Mike at Dual-Star indicated that
|they are designing a new mount for the rear master cylinder as the factory one
|cracks and can come apart on a fall or if you bend the brake pedal, anyone
|ever have problems with the mount.  He said that they will make it from a
|heavy SS.
|
|Larry
|
Yes, Jim Barthell did...it is called a rear master stay and I carry a spare with me...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (NKLR)  Ah the Navy
Date: 20 Mar 1999 16:46:48 -0500

Hehe, the Americans dared go back to Canada?  When my friends were in the
multinational wargames, possibly in Newfoundland, they had it pretty damn
easy.  They forced a personnel carrier to stop in an ambush and "killed"
every single one of the Americans as they climbed out in single file.  It
was during the day too...I'd love to see what would have happened if it was
dark out since Canada is one of the only countries to train troops for night
warfare.

Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----


>A friend of mine sent me this excerpt.  There are so many Canadians on this
>list I thought I might share it with you.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I
>did.
>Morgan
>Life is too short to take ANYTHING too seriously!
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Homemade Tank Bags/Luggage
Date: 20 Mar 1999 16:54:11 -0500

There is dye made specifically for dying clothes black, try your local
"Goth" store of some kind of craft store.  You just toss everything into a
bucket along with some of the dye.  I wouldn't really worry about Olive
Drab, what could possibly happen?  I am going to be buying a pair of ammo
boxes from the Surplus store here some time soon.  They are about
6"x12"x18", painted blue with the specs of the ammo inside the boxes
(possibly 12mm but I only saw it in my peripheral vision) and have a
waterproof ring.  Cost is 17$ each.  Only an idiot would thing I was toting
anti-aircraft ammo on my CR250...
Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----



>The bags are now colored with typical military O.D.
>green. I will be looking into a way to dye them black
>(if possible). Due to the general paranoia of the American
>Public, I do not recommend hitting the road with this
>luggage in its original colour and markings. The afore
>mentioned paranoid masses will think you are a militia kook.
>Thanks,
>Da Kraksta
>A13 5k+ miles
>
>
>
>seat and
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Headlight Bulb removal
Date: 20 Mar 1999 17:00:22 -0500

There is the messy way to remove bulbs.  Tear off the glass and then put a
Robertson (square) Head screw driver into the bulb's "brass".  Then give the
screwdriver a good jab against the butt end.  This will loosen up any
corrosion in the socket, ofcourse only do this if it is a push in and twist
type bulb.  Always replace the bulbs with some grease on the new ones, they
won't short out.

Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----


>It would seem easy, but I can't pull my headlight bulb out.  It the
'golden'
>colored metal ring appears stuck.
>
>Any tips?
>
>Pat
>Austin, Texas
>1997 KLR650 w/11.1K miles
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 21 Mar 1999 09:03:20 +1000

Pippo Nicotera wrote:

[DJ kit in euro 600]
> installed strictly as per the DJ instructions about tuning it with the K&N
> and the IDS (IDS currently with 10 disks).

Can I assume that you used DJ "stage 1" specifications?

> I didn't have time to experiment
> that much (The carb on the 600, you know that, is less accessible than on
> the 650: it's difficult to turn it and work on it without removing the whole
> thing from the bike...

I've never removed mine, but I have taken the subframe off a few times
to clean that and clean the inside of the airbox.
If getting the carby turned is a bit tricky, then I'll just swing the
subframe back.

[...]
> I have made some test runs
> removing the air filter and I believe this can be a good approximation (Am I
> wrong here?)

K&N are supposed to flow quite well.
Now that you mention it, I'll have to see what the difference is
on the dyno between the 2 filters and no filter, when the time comes.
For now, I'll use the factory filter. The K&N for the 600 is not
available here in Oz. If I want one, I'll have to get it from
overseas.
Speeding up my 2 old bikes in a small market like Oz can be hard.
I can't get a jet kit for the CBX750 in Oz, but I can get a K&N
for it (it's on order right now).

It sounds like DJ have a happy customer in Italy, at least.

My 600 DJ kit is sitting here on the table next the screen.
I'm tempted to fit in now, but seeing how it compares to stock on a
dyno is also tempting.
Now that I have my test muffler in 3 pieces, I can see where I think
the greatest restriction is. Now I have to decide what to do about it,
and take some more pictures of it of course.

Mister_T
--
   \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
   |   RC17   KLR600    Roces BCN    FreeBSD 2.2.5-R    NT4W (ugh)   |
   |           tedp[at]replicant[dot]apana[dot]org[dot]au            |
  \|_________________________________________________________________|




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (NKLR)  Ah the Navy
Date: 20 Mar 1999 15:03:40 -0700

Actually, almost every country trains for night warfare and most combat
occurs at night.  The US has much better and much more night vision
equipment then Canada has.  Not to say that the superiority of the Canadian
soldier won't overcome that imbalance, but your statement is off the mark.

Cheers,

Vik (retired Captain Canadian Military Engineers - with shitty night vision)


-----Original Message-----


>Hehe, the Americans dared go back to Canada?  When my friends were in the
>multinational wargames, possibly in Newfoundland, they had it pretty damn
>easy.  They forced a personnel carrier to stop in an ambush and "killed"
>every single one of the Americans as they climbed out in single file.  It
>was during the day too...I'd love to see what would have happened if it was
>dark out since Canada is one of the only countries to train troops for
night
>warfare.
>
>Stephen Rivett
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert Morgan <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: March 20, 1999 11:52 AM
>Subject: (klr650) Re: (NKLR) Ah the Navy
>
>
>>A friend of mine sent me this excerpt.  There are so many Canadians on
this
>>list I thought I might share it with you.  I hope you enjoy it as much as
I
>>did.
>>Morgan
>>Life is too short to take ANYTHING too seriously!
>>
>>
>>
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alan Henderson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 20 Mar 1999 16:27:01 -0600

>Now that I have my test muffler in 3 pieces, I can see where I think
>the greatest restriction is. Now I have to decide what to do about it,
>and take some more pictures of it of course.
>
>Mister_T

Pictures! Remember we want to see pictures!     Alan Henderson, Iowa A13





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alex Jomarron <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Helge Pedersen in Chicago
Date: 20 Mar 1999 14:39:42 -0800 (PST)

Greetings Enthusiasts,

I am announcing the confirmation of Helge Pedersen's visit to Chicago
to present his Multimedia show in support of his book 10 Years on 2
Wheels. It based on his epic decade long ride around the world. Here
are the details:

When: Friday April 9 @7:30-9:30

Where: Field Museum in Chicago. Roosevelt & Lake Shore Drive. Enter
the through the south entrance.

Cost: Tickets $12 ea. Parking will be at the museum and is $7.

Availability: Tickets are available in advance from Laurel BMW
Motorcycles @ 645 Westmont Dr., Westmont, IL [phone].
Payment is to be made in cash or a cheque, made out to Helge Pedersen.

Thanks for the bandwidth,

(Mike-would you forward this to the SnackPack list?)

Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL




==
Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL USA
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Homemade Tank Bags/Luggage
Date: 20 Mar 1999 17:11:43 +0000

At 12:41 PM 3/20/99 -0600, Kraka wrote:
>Just a thought to share with my KLR conpadres y conmadres,
>
>I will be constructing tank bags (3way) and side luggage
>(3way) by altering some GI Buttpacks. I was able to buy them
>cheap from a Army/Navy Surplus Store. I got six for about ~$30.
>They are "medium" sized and rugged. They will work nicely
>on mybeloved A13.
>
>The buttpacks will require minimal harnessing modifications.
>These mods. will require some nylon belts (same material as
>seat belts) and a little custom sewing.  Total capital
>investment will be about $45. Labour cost will be N.A. cuz
>I will not charge myself labor. ;-)
>
>If anyone is interested in seeing the final results and/or
>finalize designs, I would be willing to share them with you.
>
>The bags are now colored with typical military O.D.
>green. I will be looking into a way to dye them black
>(if possible). Due to the general paranoia of the American
>Public, I do not recommend hitting the road with this
>luggage in its original colour and markings. The afore
>mentioned paranoid masses will think you are a militia kook.
>
>The final result will have two buttpacks draping over the
>sides of the tank with one buttpack sitting between and on
>the seat and gastank (3way-front). The rear will have
>two buttpacks draping over the side plastic (and avoiding
>the tail pipe) with the center buttpack sitting on the
>luggage rack.
>
>I am all ears for your opinions/suggestions.



    Some of my ideas can be seen at:

http://www.scsn.net/users/bullet/tomsmods.htm


    In my case, I used a pair of East German surplus rucksacks for saddlebags
and a pair of small Navy surplus flare cane mounted as permanent latchable
storage.



-Tom
'96 KLR 650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #154
Date: 20 Mar 1999 17:46:58 EST

In a message dated 3/19/99 6:05:29 PM Pacific Standard Time, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

> Is it ok for me to put WD40 on the key and use it to lube
>  up the pins?

Probably better to go to the local auto parts and get some graphite or lock
lube. the lock lube is a light carrier with graphite suspended in it. One dose
has lasted for over a year on my bike even riding in the rain.

Gary



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (klr)- dealer rec. oils
Date: 20 Mar 1999 18:48:33 -0500

heh heh heh.... Have to look into this when the time comes. Just got the
rear, less then 100 miles ago, so they're not even scuffed all the way yet.
Front is due, probably in about 2000 miles.
Adios, NY Pete
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Steamroller <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR mailing list <[e-mail]>
>Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 9:44 PM
>Subject: (klr650) (klr)- dealer rec. oils
>
>
>I actually ride
>>OFF-ROAD! Alot of high RPM, and clutch slipping going on.
><snip>
>I'm actually
>>thinking of going "full-knobby" on my tires since the street oriented
tires
>>just don't cut it.
>
>
>Sounds like you are ready for some Pirelli MT21s on the rear and a Dunlop
>K139 on the front.  This is my tire combination of choice for a DOT knob
>set-up.  Works great and lasts long.  Kinda like me on a good day.  ;<)
>
>Fred
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Electric vest problem
Date: 20 Mar 1999 16:43:02 -0700

I have been using an Aerostich Unobtanium Electric Vest with great results
for the last year.  Its warm and works great.  I installed the vest wiring
on my GS500 (direct to battery with a 10A fuse) and on that bike it works,
but is much less warm.  I can't figure it out.....the battery is not being
run down when I use the vest and since on both bikes I am wiring straight to
the battery with the supplied wiring I can't figure out why the vest is very
warm on my KLR, but only mildly warm on the GS500.  Maybe its a stupid
mistake, but I can't think of what it is - any ideas?

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #157
Date: 20 Mar 1999 18:56:37 EST

Several have mentioned going to Alaska this summer (I happen to be going
myself).  FYI, there's a motorcycle club up there that has an interesting web
site.  It's mostly a BMW club (we'll forgive them for that), but last time I
was there, there were lots of non-BMW bikes around.  They don't give a hoot
what you ride.

Check it out.  It has good info for the ride up.
http://www.alaska.net/~dbaldwin.  Also check out the related rally.  Last time
I went (1996), 8 Germans, 3 Swedes, and 1 from El Salvador showed up.  Also
several from CA, TX, PA, ND, FL and Canada.

Ken Reither
Kingwood, TX (Houston), where the riding was great today.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  Sacrilege
Date: 20 Mar 1999 19:17:07 -0500

At 01:24 AM 3/20/99 -0700, Skip Faulkner wrote:
>   No Stuart, she wasn`t referring to you guys ( both genders) as sheep. She
>was referring to what SHE would be if she got a KLR just because I had one.

Well, I've been having a good laugh over the fact that your best friend has
not only obtained a machine that, uh, some of us may lust after (privately,
of course), but that she appears to have total run of the computer station
and your email password.  What is going to be interesting is how Skip
handles all this over time.  Will he get his own F650?  Will he get a
private email address?  Will he need to to one-up the BMW, do a Haycock and
get a Tiger?  There are a whole lotta questions here.

My sheep interpretation stands, btw.  Nobody ever follows just one sheep in
the movies, unless it's your turn...  You're part of the herd, man.     :-)

I'm thinking about sticking cotton balls all over my black Motoport.
 Forgive the bandwidth.

Stuart
KLR A12
Juno Beach, Florida



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)  POWER
Date: 20 Mar 1999 19:23:57 -0500

I think I have you all beat. Try this..... Detroit Series 60  6 cylinder
diesel (out of a 1994 Freightliner), coupled to a Fuller Road Ranger 10
speed transmission. 425 ponies developing 1350 lbs of torque.
Now all I have to do is design a sufficient frame and wheel combo.
But first I need to take my medicine, heh heh heh.
" ....they're coming to take me away, haha, they're coming to take me away,
hoho..."
Adios, NY Pete
-----Original Message-----


>
>
>
>>Hello.
>>
>>I recenty bought a 1992 KLR 650, but immediately reckoned it lacked a
>>lot of
>>what makes riding a motorcycle so wonderful, POWER.
>>
>>So I replaced the stock engine with a inline fourcylinder from a ZX-11.
>>A lot of work had to be done to fit the new engine to the KLR frame, but
>>it was worth it.
>>
>>Acceleration and topspeed improved a lot, and highspeed wheelies are so
>>much easier to accomplish.
>>
>>The frame is not made for such a strong engine (150 bhp), but wobbling
>>is a challange to every true rider.
>>
>>Has anyone tried anything like this besides me??
>>
>>Nick
>>
>
>Nick,
>   I did try one engine swap. Wanting power as well as economy, I installed
>a Renault-Moraine horizontally opposed 4 cylinder ( the 6 cylinder require
>to much lengthening of the frame) turbo-diesel in my KLR. There was quite a
>weight change, as it`s
> water-cooled ( 325lbs.) but my range per tank increased to 125 mpg. The
>main problem was that because of the unbelievable torque increase, the
first
>time I tried a wheelie, the rear frame and swingarm twisted to a 45 degree
>angle, which left me with a problem. This was even after a complete frame
>beef-up ( 3x3 square tube moly all around and 4" I-beams for swing arms).
>Besides that, I was burning the soles of my boots off since they had to
rest
>on top of the cylinders ( which put my knees level with the top of the
>tank), but that could be remedied. Engine noise was also a problem.
>   Needless to say, that one didn`t work too well. I`m trying an inline 4
>cyl. turbo diesel out of my Trooper next time.
>
> Skip ( power and economy, always a grasp away)
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Daniel L. Hill" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Golf Clubs
Date: 20 Mar 1999 19:30:37 -0500

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hello Friends:
Has anyone tried to make a mount or carry a set of golf clubs on the
KLR-650. I've been just riding with them on my back, but it is a little
unsafe. My local bike shop has a long gun mount for ATV's, but nothing for
my clubs. If you found something that will work, please send me your design.
I'm looking at several ideals using a vertical rack system hanging off the
left side. It would work like a saddle bag with straps to hold the golf bag.

Thanks, Dan
[e-mail]
http://members.visi.net/~dlhill/dantxt.html

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR - Alaska Trip Itinerary
Date: 20 Mar 1999 19:47:34 -0500

List:

I'm leaving South Florida on or about May 7 for Alaska via Alabama,
Mississippi, Arkansas, and then sort of diagonally northward to Saskatoon
via the Plains.  After that will go direct Dawson Creek, Watson Lake and
indirectly to Fairbanks, then Prudhoe Bay.  I should be in Prudhoe sometime
in early June.

Return is during August and early September from Anchorage via Watson Lake,
Cassiar Hwy, Seattle, Eureka CA, Susanville CA, Reno NV, Moab UT and on to
Florida.

This is the longest motorcycle trip I've ever done, and it will be
interesting to see if the old bod hangs in there.

I've already talked with a couple of people, but if anyone else is near any
of those songlines, let me know.  If it works, I'd be happy to say hello or
meet for a cup of coffee.   Drop me a line via email and I'll reply in kind.

Stuart
KLR A12



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Helge Pedersen in Chicago
Date: 20 Mar 1999 17:54:46 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; Al Fedz <[e-mail]>; Bruce Garlow
<[e-mail]>; Mike Kalinosky <[e-mail]>; KLR650 List
<[e-mail]>


>Greetings Enthusiasts,
>
>I am announcing the confirmation of Helge Pedersen's visit to Chicago
>to present his Multimedia show in support of his book 10 Years on 2
>Wheels.

Alex,

Business has been so good that I have started selling books online.  I have
an online bookstore now.  Click on Helge's book on my web page.

What's next?  Selling pencils on the sidewalk?  Just kidding!!  Business has
been great!

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
        Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
              435-259-7356
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Alaska Trip Itinerary
Date: 20 Mar 1999 21:22:18 EST

In a message dated 3/20/99 6:46:55 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I'm leaving South Florida on or about May 7 for Alaska via Alabama,
 Mississippi, Arkansas, and then sort of diagonally northward to Saskatoon
 via the Plains.  After that will go direct Dawson Creek, Watson Lake and
 indirectly to Fairbanks, then Prudhoe Bay.  I should be in Prudhoe sometime
 in early June >>
Stuart, there are at least three of us leaving Omaha, NE on August 6 for
prudhoe bay then turning around to Ushuaia, Argentina. Hope to be home by
Christmas after 31,000 miles+/-. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)  POWER
Date: 20 Mar 1999 22:06:00 +0000

At 07:23 PM 3/20/99 -0500, Steamroller wrote:
>I think I have you all beat. Try this..... Detroit Series 60  6 cylinder
>diesel (out of a 1994 Freightliner), coupled to a Fuller Road Ranger 10
>speed transmission. 425 ponies developing 1350 lbs of torque.
>Now all I have to do is design a sufficient frame and wheel combo.
>But first I need to take my medicine, heh heh heh.


    Have you looked into one of those two-stroke turbo-diesels out of a GE
locomotive? I mean, lets get serious here...



-Tom
'96 KLR 650
(with 600V DC traction motors)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) I dare you...
Date: 20 Mar 1999 21:29:48 -0700

I dare you ..go ahead...

Seems like this is the day for wacky posts and I'm still stuck on the oil thing...delete now if
you can't be bothered.

Just changed my oil and for third consecutive time confirmed Eldon's findings. For the
skeptical, I dare you to do the following. Get your bike warm. Drop the oil. Drop the filter.
Put new filter in. Be sure and tip your bike to the left...mine drains a bit more. Now go ahead
and put 2 qts in no problem. Now the fun begins.

2.5 liters equals 2 qts. 19 ounces (this is Eldon's figure, I actually get 20 but use the 19
ounces). So, to follow the factory recommended refill of 2.5 liters you will want to add the
additional 19 ounces. Don't...just add 9 ounces and hold 10 ounces back. Now look at the sight
glass. It will be full. Skeptical. O.K. good.

Now, start the bike...remember you have held back 10 ounces but the sight glass is full. Start
the bike and let it warm for a moment or two. Now, shut it off, pretend you've just come to a
gas station and you want to check your oil. You decide to go to the bathroom, get a soda, eat
some peanuts...all the while letting your oil settle. Now go look at the sight glass. It will
be about 1/4 inch below the top mark. Don't do anything. Now let the bike sit for an hour or
two. Come back. The oil will be at the top of the sight glass..full...right? But what about the
10 ounces you haven't added to bring the amount you've added to the factory recommended 2.5
liters?

So, for those who don't pay any attention to the 2.5 liters but use the sight glass at least
you are being consistent. You are disregarding the factory recommended refill of 2.5 and adding
2.2 instead.

For those who use the 2.5 and then keep it at the sight glass from then on. You are using 10
ounces of oil between oil changes and then keeping it at the 10 ounce low point until your next
oil change.

My bike reaches the sight glass at 1500 miles so it is using about 5 ounces every 750-1000
miles...so, I need to add that amount to stay at the 2.5...

That's it...now, I'll put it to bed.

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR Race Laughs....Long
Date: 20 Mar 1999 23:37:13 EST

Hi KLRists,

Some friends and I have been working on a Motorcycle Television Show called
"Resurrection Riders Video Magazine" that we are airing on the local access
channel. We have a motorcycle club at the church I pastor, and the club and
show is a growth of us having so many avid motorcycle fans in the
congregation.
For the first show, we were finishing taping a review of the KLR650, and took
it out in the country for some good country riding/curvy road shots.
Afterwards, I asked the guys to come with me to a local homemade motocross
track, so that we could get some shots of the KLR riding in the dirt, and
maybe riding some wheelies and jumping a little bit.
  We get to the dirt track, get the camera set up, and the other two guys that
were helping me rode a 98' SuperHawk, and a 99' Blackbird 1100xx. We attracted
some attention from the kids in the neighborhood behind the track, and before
we knew it there were about 10 kids talking to us about the bikes. All of the
sudden most of em' dissappeared while I was riding  for the camera, and I
wondered "Man, what happened to all those kids? Must've gotten bored with the
Big Moose Bike!"
  Then I see a coupla Dads come walking out onto the track. Then I see a new
YZ80, and KX60 come onto the track. Then a JW80. Then a KX80/100. All these
kids wanna see what the big Dual Sport'll do. All these kids had full
motocross gear on also; from the helmets and goggles, to the racing pants, and
chest protectors!
My camera guy decides, "Hey, let's do a Motocross start, and line up the
bikes, and see who get's out first!". The kids line up reving their bikes like
they are Jeremy McGrath in a SuperDome somewhere. I'm there  "Thump, thump,
thumpin", and hoping these little motocrossers don't blow me away! The hand is
waved, and the big KLR comes out on a wheelie and gets the whole shot on the
little Ziiiiiiiingers! Only problem....after the nice straightaway, there is a
sharp bumpy u-Turn. I'm sliding the rear of the Moose around that curve, but
basically lose my lead to the little YZ80 in the curve (Hey, he had a pipe!).
I take the long way around the curve, and pull in behind the YZ, eating his
roost (I didn't know a bike that little could roost at all). we come to the
big jump (A little double jump). He flies (Ziiiiiiiing) I set up for the
jump........"Yeeeehaw.........Uh-Oh, gotta land this
747"..........whooosh..."Hey not too bad with the new Progressive fork
springs. Sure does take some muscle to help the bike land comfortably though."
After a while of messing with the motocrossers, I got tired of beating my KLR
senseless (Now it is filthy), so I just kicked back and watched them race.
  The bike is just too big and squishy to ride HARD on a track for more than
15 minutes or so. It takes some muscle to keep jumping it, and land it without
crashing.
Those kids showed me absolutley no mercy. especially because I always left em'
in the dust on the starts. I'm sore already tonight, so I know I was using a
lotta body to keep the bike upright, and not get embarassed by the little
guys. Pretty funny picture though....The big KLR against bikes that all put
together, still didn't match it's displacement. I can definitely tell a huge
difference in the bike's on and off road manners now; with the new fork
springs, jet kit, pipe and stuff that I put on over the winter. Coming off of
hill wheelies and landing, is smooth now where before it took effort to stop
the suspension from compressing.
 Got some footage of the KLR riding with a Blackbird 1100xx in the curves on a
way out, isolated country road with no traffic too. I was smoking the guy
through the curves, and he got mad and just blew by me like I was standing
still when we hit the straight.. Man, those bikes are mega-fast. I hit the
throttle for a second and though "Yeah right!",  laughing as his tailight got
smaller and smaller. The I went off the road right into the ditch and jumped
it, just to make me feel better :) Fun day, but it made me want a serious dirt
bike, in addtion to the KLR. My budget says that feeling will pass....
I packed the camera and tripod up, and put everything into my detachable
trunk, and hit the road; admiring how smooth this big dual-sport was , even
after beating it on a track with some ziiiiiiiingers. Sweet bike. As we were
loading the bike up, my SuperHawk buddy said "Man Bill, this KLR is like the
Sport Utility Vehicle of motorcycles. You can do anything with it!"...."Yup",
I said.
Some of the KLR stuff does look pretty cool on video. I'm looking forward to
getting into the editing booth and seeing what we can put together for the
show on the KLR.


FWIW,

Bill Swindle
A12 "Moose"
Montgomery, IL



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: waynef <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) UFO Super Bike --low fender installation question
Date: 20 Mar 1999 22:48:56 -0600

Just got my new low fender from Fred (thanks Fred!) but all of the
instructions are in Italian. My initial impression is that the fender
looks very short to keep mud, etc. off  the engine, etc.(any comments
from those of you using this fender?)  I would appreciate any
information/tips on installing the fender from those of you who have
been through the process.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) New Headlight concern..
Date: 20 Mar 1999 21:05:20 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


        So I am out on my second ride this year, I get home and my
headlight was out (7000 km, first time this has ever happened). I
figured replacing the OEM bulb with a H4 90/130w, was the reason. --
Verified 10A fuse blew, replaced it...still no headlight !! Re-installed
the OEM bulb, still no light...confirmed all connections were good.
Tapped the lens and Yammo - light returns ??  Now, every time I remove
the key, and reinstall it - no headlight, and it requires a tap on the
lens to come back on ? So what happened ??
Has anyone else run into this problem, and found a fix ? Any help would
be much appreciated..

chow,
Brian

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--------------A0F0CC4FE7327F6D1116FC51--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Michael Stecyk)
Subject: Re: (klr650) New Headlight concern..
Date: 21 Mar 1999 00:36:20 -0500 (EST)

Dear Sir;
IMHO--sounds  like a electric ground thing to moi---




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Michael Stecyk)
Subject: (klr650) new
Date: 21 Mar 1999 01:25:30 -0500 (EST)

new




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "cosmo bojinski" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) golf clubs
Date: 20 Mar 1999 22:38:29 PST

Dan, just don't ask if you can hang 'em off the helmet lock. :)
Drive straight, drive safe.  cosmo
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Michael Stecyk)
Subject: Re: (klr650) new=++
Date: 21 Mar 1999 01:45:42 -0500 (EST)

Dear Mr. Guy
Wiser-quieter-humbler
Mike




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bruce  Hedquist" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) UFO Super Bike --low fender installation question
Date: 20 Mar 1999 23:50:16 -0700



>Just got my new low fender from Fred (thanks Fred!) but all of the
>instructions are in Italian. My initial impression is that the fender
>looks very short to keep mud, etc. off  the engine, etc.(any comments
>from those of you using this fender?)  I would appreciate any
>information/tips on installing the fender from those of you who have
>been through the process.



I agree!  It's a little short to keep mud off and I found out the hard way.
However, I recently purchased for $3.42 from JC Whitney a front and rear
mudguard.  Looks like it should help, though not completely eliminate the
problem.  Easy install.

Regarding the install of the fender, I fabricated an extension for the two
front mounts to raise it off the tire a little more.  I then had to drill
the mounting hole for the rear mount a little lower than factory.  Went to
PEP boys and bought an automotive plug (white) and placed it in the factory
holes.  Looks good, works good.

Additionally, I mounted the brake lines on the rear position of the UFO
clamps.  Had to purchase longer bolts to do this.

If you need more info, email me direct with your address and I will send you
a sketch.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you...well oil righty then
Date: 21 Mar 1999 02:23:31 EST

On 3/20/99, [e-mail] writes: snip

>eat some peanuts...all the while letting your oil settle. Now go look<
>at the sight glass. It will be about 1/4 inch below the top mark....<


 Dear Majordomo,
 After letting it drain all night, I used a 'Ratio Rite' with ml
 markings for my last 3 changes to verify how much I put in.
 This way I didn't have to worry about making the conversion
 to qt/oz. The oil sump takes 2200 ml, or 2.2 liters to reach
 the top of the sight glass.

 I run the engine to fill the filter. Then the factory says, "If
 the moto has just been used, wait several minutes for the
 oil to drain down."

 So I shut it down and light a smoke while contemplating exactly
 how long "several minutes" is. I snuff the butt and realize that
 some mysteries may never be revealed to me. Glancing down at
 the sight gauge, I see that it's slightly below halfway. Now pour
 in the remaining 300 ml, which brings it to the top of the glass,
 for a total of 2.5 liters or 2 quarts and 20.536 ounces.

snip
>2.5 liters equals 2 qt. 19 ounces (this is Eldon's figure, I actually<
>get 20 but use the 19 ounces)....My bike reaches the sight glass at<
>1500 miles so it is using about 5 ounces every 750-1000 miles...<


 2.5 liters = 2 quarts +20.536 ounces. Eldon isn't overfilling his
 oil tank, he's UNDERfilling it. My bike hasn't needed topping off
 between oil changes. Let this be a lesson fellow listers!! If you
 only fill up with 2qt+19 oz, you may start burning oil like Kurt...


>That's it...now, I'll put it to bed.<


      Hope you're a light sleeper...

 Redondo Ron  A10  (fortunately you didn't double dare me)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) carb jetting
Date: 21 Mar 1999 01:56:30 -0800

A friend of mine gave me an idea when we were on the topic of correct
jetting after installing a new muffler and K&N filter.  He said to take note
of the colour (Canadian spelling) of the spark plug(s) as a stock system
(assuming of course that it's set right from the factory) and after making
your modifications, re-jet to obtain the same colour.  Which , I think
should be a nice tan colour.  Makes sense to me.  Any comments?

Arne - who's house got B&Eed tonight.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) NKLR ZR1100
Date: 21 Mar 1999 08:11:50 EST

A local dealer has a 93 ZR1100G that was just traded in 6K miles, just
serviced, wants 3300, does anyone know anything about this model looks like a
good sport tourer. P.S. Spring Break is under way here at South Padre Island,
so Fred I have alot of umbrella girls for you, the state police have a KLR650
decked out for getting through traffic, radios, lights the works in a black
and white motiff.
Thanks
Larry



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR ZR1100
Date: 21 Mar 1999 06:27:40 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>P.S. Spring Break is under way here at South Padre Island,
>so Fred I have alot of umbrella girls for you,

So does that mean I have to come to Texas or are you going to send them to
me???

I just changed this weeks UG pix...
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/page23.html

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you...well oil righty then
Date: 21 Mar 1999 07:22:49 -0700


| 2.5 liters = 2 quarts +20.536 ounces. Eldon isn't overfilling his
| oil tank, he's UNDERfilling it. My bike hasn't needed topping off
| between oil changes. Let this be a lesson fellow listers!! If you
| only fill up with 2qt+19 oz, you may start burning oil like Kurt...


I should have known...shouldn't you be busy working on spring industry announcements with
Hiro...OK...I double dare you...but...here are the rules...we do each other's bike at Moab
while witnessed by screaming cheering KLR'sts sipping mightly from some of Eddie McStiff's
finest....(I'm going to throw a fake oil slick under yours)...

Kurt (I agree that it is strange that Eldon translates 2.5 to 2qts. 19...I'm going outside and
add another ounce)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Umbrella Girl - Kinda
Date: 21 Mar 1999 08:18:09 -0800


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>
>I just changed this weeks UG pix...
>http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/page23.html
>
>Fred Hink


Arne,

Two more pitchers of beer if I see a UG pic of you in a speedo posing next
to your new KLR on Fred's UG page - and yes before you ask, I'll double it
if you are dealing with a double nose bleed in the pic!

=)

Cheers,

Vik (keep in mind the beer offer is only good at the Moab Rally so now
you'll have to come to that Arne)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) carb jetting
Date: 21 Mar 1999 08:37:48 -0700



|A friend of mine gave me an idea when we were on the topic of correct
|jetting after installing a new muffler and K&N filter.  He said to take note
|of the colour (Canadian spelling) of the spark plug(s) as a stock system
|(assuming of course that it's set right from the factory) and after making
|your modifications, re-jet to obtain the same colour.  Which , I think
|should be a nice tan colour.  Makes sense to me.  Any comments?
|
|Arne - who's house got B&Eed tonight.


This is one of the old tried and true methods but it is complicated on the KLR for the simple
reason that you have to take the Gas Tank off the beast in order to get the plug out?
Surprised?  So were we. The trick also is to shut the machine down at a time when you are
running on the main and not any other circuits...so that means "clipping" along at a good
highway pace and then turning the ignition off...coasting to a stop...pulling your tank and
pulling the plug...it can be done.

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dave Wormmeester <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) First shift
Date: 21 Mar 1999 11:20:08 -0800

    Eldon recommends pulling in the clutch and blipping the throttle.  I
believe shifting into
2nd was also recommended.  Anyway, I tried this and it worked great no
more black
marks in the driveway.  I wish I had known this sooner.  My poor
tranny.  My other
Kaw. also has stickey clutch plates.  I can rock it lose by putting it
in first and while
pulling in the clutch roll the bike forward.  This method did not work
on the KLR.
The rear tire would just slide.  If you can free the plates before you
hit the starter
you will find it easier to get a bike with a low battery started.

Dave W
Grand Rapids MI.






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pippo Nicotera <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR 600 Acerbis tank info request.
Date: 21 Mar 1999 17:29:29 +0100

Hello' Mike and dear fellow listers...

If my memory serves me at all...

is your 600 equipped with an Acerbis plastic tank??? I remember seeing a
picture but I cannot recall where it is! If it's yours, How long it is you
have that tank?... how does it hold to ageing??? Vaguely thinking about
replacing my tiny 600 tank with an aftermarket! Tnx!

Best regards from Pippo in Italy

--
Politicians should read science fiction, not westerns and detective
stories.
-- Arthur C. Clarke





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pippo Nicotera <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 21 Mar 1999 17:22:33 +0100

Hello' Ted, Skip and fellow listers...

On 21-Mar-99, Ted Palmer wrote:

> Pippo Nicotera wrote:
>
> [DJ kit in euro 600]
>> installed strictly as per the DJ instructions about tuning it with the
>> K&N and the IDS (IDS currently with 10 disks).
>
> Can I assume that you used DJ "stage 1" specifications?

No, I used the "Stage 2" specs.; DJ doesn't clarify what a "Modified Airbox"
exactly is and, since on the 600 the airbox lid cannot be removed without
allowing unfiltered air to enter the carb, I've made 4-1" holes in the right
side of the airbox, 1-1" hole on the top, and removed the snorkel. I believe
that this works as DJ supposed to, but I'm also looking into your modified
airbox description, Ted.

>> I have made some test runs removing the air filter and I believe this can
>> be a good approximation (Am I wrong here?)
>
> K&N are supposed to flow quite well.
> Now that you mention it, I'll have to see what the difference is
> on the dyno between the 2 filters and no filter, when the time comes.
> For now, I'll use the factory filter. The K&N for the 600 is not
> available here in Oz. If I want one, I'll have to get it from
> overseas.

Sorry, Ted, but I'm almost sure that the K&N Filter for the 600 doesn't
exist at all! I had a response from K&N telling me this! The Application
Chart on the DJ site is wrong! I believe that they assumed 600 & 650 Filters
were the same and never updated the chart! I think that, for a direct
replacement of air filter, we should steer to Twin Air or something else!
(Listers, any advice on this???)

> Speeding up my 2 old bikes in a small market like Oz can be hard.
> I can't get a jet kit for the CBX750 in Oz, but I can get a K&N
> for it (it's on order right now).

The same applies for Italy... North Europe is much better!

> It sounds like DJ have a happy customer in Italy, at least.

As I said before, the "fun factor" during the progress of the work has been
greater than the results I had so far... but I consider this a success!

> My 600 DJ kit is sitting here on the table next the screen.
> I'm tempted to fit in now, but seeing how it compares to stock on a
> dyno is also tempting.

In my case it was easier... no dyno test facility in sight, so SOP method
had to suffice!

> Now that I have my test muffler in 3 pieces, I can see where I think
> the greatest restriction is. Now I have to decide what to do about it,
> and take some more pictures of it of course.

I told you in a previous message that I'm reading about your work on the
stock exhaust with great interest... I have mine retired after IDS
installation, but I'm ready to unearth it if it's worth... I'll look like a
leech, but I don't have nor the background, neither the tools to experiment
the way you are... so I'll wait for the results! (Skip Faulkner, this applies
also for your writings about the same subject... very interesting!)

Ciao Ted & Skip...

Best Regards from Pippo, "The Horse With No Name", in Italy!
Long Live to the K'LR!!!
--
Politicians should read science fiction, not westerns and detective
stories.
-- Arthur C. Clarke





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pippo Nicotera <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fred's help on 600!
Date: 21 Mar 1999 13:22:54 +0100

Hello' Fred...

On 21-Mar-99, Fred Hink wrote:

> Hi Pippo,
>
> How are you in Italy? My leg is healing up nicely. I may go for a
> motorcycle ride tomorrow for the first time since I hurt myself. I need to
> ride! It is in my blood.

I'm fine, thank you, and I'm happy to know that you'll be back on the XR
soon!

> What is the weather like where you are? We are just starting into spring.

It's almost the same here but,right in these days, we have a "Winter Strikes
Back" movie rolling in our theaters :-{ so, no test runs for the moment!

> Hope you get your Kawasaki running like you want it to.

I hope so! After adjusting the valve train, I can hear it distinctly
clicking, especially the left side (Maybe KACR?) but I guess it's fine since
the bike is running fine enough! I adjusted valve clearances roughly in the
centre of allowed range using the manual suggested shims.

You know, I still would like to add some other little things, but I can't
decide yet... things like:

- A new Alu handlebar (Yes, I've read the comparison on the DSN web site,
  I'm afraid that my 600 handlebar is considerably different from 650's one,
  so I don't know if a Renthal Desert will fit. I still have to figure-out a
  reliable method to measure my current stock steel handlebar! Any hint from
  original Part No.s for 600 & 650, Fred?

- The same goes for a skid plate! Mine is a thin Alu sheet shaped to
  perfection to shield the case and water pump. It's not bad, but I like the
  sturdy look of the Moose and I wonder if, with some modification. it will
  fit my poor 600. (Maybe I already placed this question, right???)

- Pro gel grips, but these are made in Italy and I'll find them over here!

What else?!? Damn... I should plan better things to be asked! I'm sure there
is something more but...


> See you on the list.
>
> Fred Hink

See ya, Fred!

Best Regards from Pippo, "The Horse With No Name", in Italy!
Long Live to the K'LR!!!
--
Always remember that you are unique.  Just like everyone else.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Vest Problem Solved - NKLR
Date: 21 Mar 1999 09:45:06 -0800

Well I think I "solved" my problem with my electric vest being less warm on
the GS vs. the KLR.  I can't figure out why this seems to be the case while
just testing the vest with the bike not running, but last night at 11pm when
I was getting ready to leave my office and dash 100 (cold) kms home I was
fiddling with things on my bike (GS500) with the vest turned on and bike
idling.  It got nice and toasty warm...just like on my KLR so I figured
something had been funny when I rode in that morning and it was solved - one
of those electrical gremlins that happen time to time.

As soon as I start to ride the vest seemed to lose its warmth.  So I have an
hour to think about this as I freeze my acorns on the way home.  I figured
out that all the bikes I have owned (VFR, FZR, GSX-R, KLR w/ clearview +9,
tank panniers and rally guards with spoilers) have had some sort of fairing
and the GS is a naked bike with no wind protection at all.  I just totally
underestimated the cooling effect of a standard bike vs. one with a fairing.

This led me to three conclusions:

1.  boy I can be stupid!
2.  I have a new found respect for my KLR's mini-fairing and those lovely
tank panniers and acerbis hand guards.
3.  I better order a handlebar mounted fairing for the GS for longer trips.

A friend I told this story to today made fun of me and told me I knew
nothing about bikes - so just in case any of you are thinking the same here
is my response:

You think I know F*ck nothing about motorcycles?

Bullsh*t!!!!

I know F*ck all about motorcycles!  =)

BTW - anyone know of any hand guards you could attach to a street bike like
a GS500?  Just for wind/rock protection - not for crash protection.

Cheers,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alan Henderson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Electric vest problem
Date: 21 Mar 1999 11:04:02 -0600

>  I can't figure it out.....the battery is not being
>run down when I use the vest and since on both bikes I am wiring straight to
>the battery with the supplied wiring I can't figure out why the vest is very
>warm on my KLR, but only mildly warm on the GS500.  Maybe its a stupid
>mistake, but I can't think of what it is - any ideas?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik


The vest has the same resistance value on either bike so the difference in
heat output has to be the applied voltage. Your KLR regulator may be
letting the voltage run at a higher value than the regulator on your GS500.
The voltage your bike puts out going down the road depends on alot of
different factors such as the total output of the charging system and the
amount of load put on the system. If you were to check the voltage on both
bikes under normal conditions, when riding using the vest, you should see
that the voltage is higher on the KLR.
                                           Alan Henderson, Iowa A13




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alan Henderson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Electric vest problem
Date: 21 Mar 1999 11:12:37 -0600

>bikes under normal conditions, when riding using the vest, you should see
>that the voltage is higher on the KLR.
>                                           Alan Henderson, Iowa A13
>
Then again it could just be wind chill. It would still be interesting to
see what the voltage is on both bikes going down the road.         Alan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) GPS III+ and Touratech Mount..
Date: 21 Mar 1999 10:49:46 -0700

Vik and others, I'm finally getting some time to mount my GPS on the bike. The Touratech comes
with all German and the pictures are bad. The unit appears to roll into the mount by slipping
the antenna under the rubber band and "snapping" it into place. There was a discussion on the
GS list about this and people were talking about bending the mount in someway to give a firmer
fit, also using the Velcro, and ? Any tips?

Thanks,

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeff Hayden <[e-mail]>
Subject: [Fwd: (klr650) Brake noises]
Date: 21 Mar 1999 10:52:27 -0700

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> >Speaking of brakes... My new A13 appears to have loose brake pads and
> >they can be heard everywhere I go (chink - chink - chink).  The pads
> >seem to float on the pins and rattle against the rotor.  Of course they
> >don't make any noise when I apply the hydraulic fluid.
> >
> >This is my first KLR (<300 miles) and not sure if this brake noise is
> >normal or should I see how good the Warranty guarantee is or is this
> >something I have to live with?

Kurt Simpson wrote:

> I'm hard of hearing so I'm not much help...mine could have been making that racket and
> I'd never know it...why not try your warranty? Maybe you'll surprise us...we've had 1
> good story for every 30 bad on Kaw dealers....
>
> Kurt

Kurt and group,

I took the noisy brake condition into my locate dealer's shop and as expected the noises I
hear "Are Normal".  The mechanic placed his hand on the caliper housing and pronounced,
"It is OK!".  Secure with that knowledge,  I ventured off into never never land to
continue my Phase 1 break in period.  I did another 56 miles yesterday.  Only 294 miles to
go until I ask the "All Knowing Mechanic" to check my valves for proper clearances and
verify that various nuts and bolts are still at proper torque and change the oil and
filter.  Any bets on how many of those tasks will be deemed "Normal"?  I am mechanically
inclined, so it looks like I'll be making a bike lift and buying more metric tools.  Can
never have enough tools.

I'll admit that yesterday was Saturday and the shop only had two mechanics on duty.  All I
could see of one of them was assholes and elbows deep in a Vulcan.  I got the one who
answers the phones at the desk as his hands were clean.  I had to ask him "are your hands
clean?" as he fondled my front rotor!

I'll do another 50 or so miles today as the weather is perfect - mid 70's.  But, before I
go,  I think I'll spray down the rotor with some brake cleaner.

R&S Kawasaki, in Albuquerque, does have a great sales force and the credit department
manager was extremely glad to take my cash payment for the A13.
--
Jeff, KLR650-A13 ---
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj - Down Home Page
http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page



--------------FF052C40DA959A59170D55D8--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New Headlight concern..
Date: 21 Mar 1999 09:59:58 -0800

Brian does the same thing happen high or low beam?  Sounds to me like you
might have a broken filament.  When you tap it it makes contact and burns
till it cools off and separates.
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Umbrella Girl - Kinda
Date: 21 Mar 1999 10:22:55 -0800

-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>Arne,
>
>Two more pitchers of beer if I see a UG pic of you in a speedo posing next
>to your new KLR on Fred's UG page - and yes before you ask, I'll double it
>if you are dealing with a double nose bleed in the pic!


The scary thing is, is that not too many years ago I would have done it.
Whew, I shudder at the thought...

>=)
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik (keep in mind the beer offer is only good at the Moab Rally so now
>you'll have to come to that Arne)
>

I guess the beer's a lot cheaper  there eh?

Arne - keepin' his cloths on these days.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Pac-Safe Information from Australia
Date: 21 Mar 1999 07:38:03 -0800

They say the Pac-Safe is mostly designed to frustrate slashers, pickpockets,
grab-and-dashers, etc. I think most of the market is backpacking
international tourists.

I HAVE experienced break-ins in Canada, but not by humans. By porcupines.
It's amazing what they'll chew through. I saw a car that had it's BUMPER
gnawed down a couple of mm's. They'd be a good challenge for this product.

BTW, I was challenged by US Customs on my return to the States a couple of
years ago about the chicken wire I had in my truck. Ms. Custom Agent wanted
to know what it was for, etc. When I explained it was to prevent porkies
from eating my truck, she got really huffy. Cost me about a twenty minute
inspection. So if you plan on coming into the states with subversive rubber
coated chicken wire, make sure you have bail money and a good lawyer.

Rob "it really happened" Gendreau


---------
> I wish they did have beta testers, I want to go after one of those nets with
> a pair of scissors, I doubt they would hold up to it.  I think they are best
> suited for preventing slashings rather than overnight protection.  I will
> vouch that while you are traveling through Canada anything tied down will be
> safe from theft if you don't park at a mall.


--
Rob Gendreau
Oakland, California
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Lois Eberhart <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 21 Mar 1999 10:24:24 -0800

I repin locks at work all the time that other people have used WD40 in. That
stuff collects a lot of dust .Graphite works OK but is messy. I use a
product called LAB LUBE on all the locks I work on. It is a Teflon powder,
not as messy and very slick in locks. Doesn't take much to do an excellent
job of lubing any kind of lock.

Sarah Barwig wrote:

> So, my key is being a bit finicky about going into the ignition. Once
> I settle it into the pins, it turns fine, but getting it in and out is a
> bit of a bear. Is it ok for me to put WD40 on the key and use it to lube
> up the pins? Or is that bad? Or is there a better commonly available
> substance?
>
> Sarah
>
> --
> Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
> There is a field.
> I'll meet you there.
>                 -Rumi




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (NKLR)  F650 FUNDURO DEAL
Date: 21 Mar 1999 10:31:27 -0800

At the expense of possible further domestic strife, I would like to inform
y'all that a recent stop at the BMW home website indicated 0.9% factory
financing currently available on 98&99 model F650 funduros.  A call to my
local dealership, Brecht BMW (also BMW car dealership, go figure, maybe
Honda will take a clue here) confirmed this smokin deal. $0 down, $149. a
month, marriage counseling not included.  Skip you may not be alone in this
for long!
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (NKLR)  F650 FUNDURO DEAL
Date: 21 Mar 1999 11:35:59 -0700


-----Original Message-----


|At the expense of possible further domestic strife, I would like to inform
|y'all that a recent stop at the BMW home website indicated 0.9% factory
|financing currently available on 98&99 model F650 funduros.  A call to my
|local dealership, Brecht BMW (also BMW car dealership, go figure, maybe
|Honda will take a clue here) confirmed this smokin deal. $0 down, $149. a
|month, marriage counseling not included.  Skip you may not be alone in this
|for long!
|Morgan

Only till March 31st...

|
|




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) <NKLR> Danners Goretex Combat Boots
Date: 21 Mar 1999 10:47:00 -0800

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    Where can I get a glimpse of these boots that have been mentioned a
few times on the list ? Do you know who in Canada stock them, and how
much ?

Thanks
Brian

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) <NKLR> AlpineStar's Stage GTX Boot
Date: 21 Mar 1999 10:46:57 -0800

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    Steve you mentioned below that these boots aren't real Dual Sport
boots, if you could help me out a little it will help me on my quest for
the 'perfect' boot. I have been looking at the AlpineStar Road Tech GTX
- only in catalogues and I can't tell what there durability will be like
in the real world. Are the 'Stage' more of an off road boot ? Do you
know where I can see a picture/price on the Net ?
I want a boot that will hold up well off-road and still be functional on
the Hwy. (touring bike, without looking like a big multi-coloured
monster off-road boot), water proof, and comfortable.


         From:
         Subject: (klr650) Boots: Alpine Stage GTX


         Howdy,
              I am a proud owner of AlpineStar's Stage GTX boot.  I
think it gets the
         "GTX "by virtue of its Goretex treatment.  I strongly recommend
the boot for a
         couple o' reasons:
         1) Goretex for this boot really works.
         2)  zips up the back with a velcro tab covering the back which
         3)  keeps water (and cold!) from penetrating through laces or
buckles, and
         4)  allows it to have an unbroken front kevlar plate for max
protection ( not
         too critical if you have the smaller foot pegs).
         5)   It doesn't have much of a heel so can move feet freely on
pegs.

         Now for some subjective stuff... I put in two generic liquid
gel inserts into
         each boot for the anti vibe factor. And with these, I find a
good degree of
         comfort.  Where before, I would peel my old boots off first
thing after a
         ride, I am in danger of wearing out the soles for tramping
around in 'em.

                They really got put to the test at the last alligator
dual-sport ride
         during bike week.  It was that freaky real cold morning,
remember?  I rode in
         to Daytona that morning (on an XT225) from Gainesville and only
mild cool
         discomfort with 1 pair of sox.  It was in the low 50s I think.
During that
         day the boots got a decent thrashing and were immersed (too)
many times.

                When I got back to Gainesvile I just sprayed them with
simple green,
         hosed them off and used this "athletic leather" shoe cleaner
stuff.  Good as
         new. Little less shiney though...

              I have sinse bought Thor off-road boots for my real
dual-sport rides, but
         when I'm cuising on my Katoom or my Virago, the Stages are my
podiatal
         protection.

         Be long and prosper,

         Steve (who breaks into soliliquies at the most inconsequential
times)
         98 RX/C 620





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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) New Headlight concern..
Date: 21 Mar 1999 10:47:03 -0800

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    The bike is virtually new, no corrosion on any contacts, all
connections are very secure, and I have tried both bulbs I have and
visually confirmed that all filaments are intact within both bulbs. The
problems also occurs regardless of high/low beam position of the stch.
when attempting to start. After the key is inserted the light is off, I
lightly tap the lens - on it comes, and then it will NOT go out again
till the key is removed and reinserted ????
    So from this I would conclude that it's not the bulb, not the fuse,
and not the stch, so where do I go from here ??

thanks,
Brian

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) <NKLR> AlpineStar's Tech 8 / 5
Date: 21 Mar 1999 11:53:00 -0800

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    Any opinions about the Alpinestar Tech 5 or Tech 8 boots ...  Are they
waterproof  ?

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) GPS III+ and Touratech Mount..
Date: 21 Mar 1999 13:00:53 -0800

Kurt,

If you have the same one I do (GPS 45) then just slide the top of the GPS
unit under the bent top part of the mount, flip the bottom portion over top
of the bottom of the GPS and tighten the thumbscrew, attach the zip tie -
and that's it.

I can't speak about the GPSIII mount, but the GPS45 mount does not need
additional Velcro or bending to ensure a tight fit.

Which mount and receiver do you have?

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>Vik and others, I'm finally getting some time to mount my GPS on the bike.
The Touratech comes
>with all German and the pictures are bad. The unit appears to roll into the
mount by slipping
>the antenna under the rubber band and "snapping" it into place. There was a
discussion on the
>GS list about this and people were talking about bending the mount in
someway to give a firmer
>fit, also using the Velcro, and ? Any tips?





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dave Wormmeester <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 21 Mar 1999 15:34:34 -0800



Lois Eberhart wrote:

> I repin locks at work all the time that other people have used WD40 in. That
> stuff collects a lot of dust .Graphite works OK but is messy. I use a
> product called LAB LUBE on all the locks I work on. It is a Teflon powder,
> not as messy and very slick in locks. Doesn't take much to do an excellent
> job of lubing any kind of lock.
>

Where can one find LAB LUBE?

DW




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)  POWER
Date: 22 Mar 1999 07:54:39 +1000

Tom Simpson wrote:

[...]
>         Have you looked into one of those two-stroke turbo-diesels out of a GE
> locomotive? I mean, lets get serious here...

Not a bad idea, using a two stroke to keep the weight down...

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New Headlight concern..
Date: 21 Mar 1999 14:16:12 -0700

...................<snip>...................
>when attempting to start. After the key is inserted the light is off, I
>lightly tap the lens - on it comes, and then it will NOT go out again
>till the key is removed and reinserted ????
>    So from this I would conclude that it's not the bulb, not the fuse,
>and not the stch, so where do I go from here ??
>
>thanks,
>Brian
>

Brian,
  Have you removed the rear plug ( lamp) and grabbed each of the three wire
and pushed them firmly into the connector? Sometimes when the connector is
pushed onto the bulb base, one or more of the blades are pushed out of the
back of the connector a little, which may reduce contact.
    Also, try moving each of the three wires instead of the tapping.

Let us know.

Skip





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 22 Mar 1999 08:25:08 +1000

Pippo Nicotera wrote:

[...]
> Sorry, Ted, but I'm almost sure that the K&N Filter for the 600 doesn't
> exist at all! I had a response from K&N telling me this! The Application
> Chart on the DJ site is wrong!

Maybe I have found some place that has some old stock.
Have a look at:
http://www.pdq1.co.uk/kawkn.htm

and you will find list a "stage 1" K&N kit for 84-85 KLR600 with
part number KA-0009. I see they don't mention any 600s later than
85.
The 650 and Tengai use part number KA-6589.

[...]
> stock exhaust with great interest... I have mine retired after IDS
> installation, but I'm ready to unearth it if it's worth... I'll look like a
> leech, but I don't have nor the background, neither the tools to experiment
> the way you are... so I'll wait for the results!

Don't think Chateau_T has a perfect garage, it just has a crazy
owner. A little bit of crazy goes a long way.

Muffler mania in Melbourne,
Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pippo Nicotera <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Leaky fork seal -er - "band-aid"
Date: 21 Mar 1999 18:02:55 +0100

Hello' dear fellow listers...

On 17-Mar-99, [e-mail] wrote:

> Don writes:
>  [trailside repair?]
>> I pulled up the bottom of the fork gaiter and wrapped a "wingless" maxi-
> strength
>> "feminine hygiene product" around the fork tube, then duct-taped it to
>> the
> slider
>
>
> You get credit for thinking ahead. I would never have thought to put one
> of those in my repair kit.
>
> John O. (definitely needing to get more in touch with my feminine side)

Once again, my memory loses some beats lately but...
maybe I've found this on an american Harley's magazine...

I remember someone making a temporary repair to fork seals as follows:

"lift the boots and/or dust caps off, clean the area and pour some
transmission or power-steering fluid over the seals (I believe that also
Diesel will do). The contact with those fluids will make the seals swell-up
and, hopefully, they'll stop leaking for a while"

Remember, it was a "Harley's thing!"

Best Regards from Pippo, "The Horse With No Name", in Italy!
Long Live to the K'LR!!!

--
Reality is for people who lack imagination.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Leaky fork seal -er - "band-aid"
Date: 22 Mar 1999 08:49:44 +1000

Pippo Nicotera wrote:

[...]
> I remember someone making a temporary repair to fork seals as follows:
>
> "lift the boots and/or dust caps off, clean the area and pour some
> transmission or power-steering fluid over the seals (I believe that also
> Diesel will do). The contact with those fluids will make the seals swell-up
> and, hopefully, they'll stop leaking for a while"

I _know_ this won't work on my Honda RC17 as the specified fork oil
is automatic transmission fluid, which is near enough to power
steering fluid.
Those Harleys must use some very sensitive seals.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) I dare you...
Date: 21 Mar 1999 14:52:02 -0700

    Kurtmeister, You know I'm a convert, but are you absolutely,
categorically positive part of that 10ozs. Wasn't hiding in the engine
somewhere when you THOUGHT you drained out all the oil?  Bogdan

    But what about the
    10 ounces you haven't added to bring the amount you've added to the
factory recommended 2.5
    liters?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (NKLR)  F650 FUNDURO DEAL
Date: 21 Mar 1999 15:08:17 -0700





>At the expense of possible further domestic strife, I would like to inform
>y'all that a recent stop at the BMW home website indicated 0.9% factory
>financing currently available on 98&99 model F650 funduros.  A call to my
>local dealership, Brecht BMW (also BMW car dealership, go figure, maybe
>Honda will take a clue here) confirmed this smokin deal. $0 down, $149. a
>month, marriage counseling not included.  Skip you may not be alone in this
>for long!
>Morgan
>

Who needs a marriage counselor when we both own firearms,
 ( being an IPSC competitor, I mistakenly have trained her well).
     After some haggling, we got the bike for $7500 with heated grips and
accessory plug thrown in. She took the Buyers Choice
 Option, which is similar to a lease, but you actually own the bike.
 We put $1000 down ( you can go with no down) for 60 months.
Anytime during this period you can sell the bike, pay it off, sell it back
to BMW, or continue till the end and pay a balloon, or refinance the balloon
amount. You pick the amount of your monthly payment, down to $45, but
remember the lower you go, the larger the balloon will be. Her payments are
$100 a month.
    I have to admit that considering the way the F650 has been holding it`s
value, it`s not a bad way to go. Also, this is simple interest.

 Skip ( seeing how long she`ll keep this bike stock)





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 21 Mar 1999 15:26:17 -0700




Hello' Ted, Skip and fellow listers...
>

>Chart on the DJ site is wrong! I believe that they assumed 600 & 650
Filters
>were the same and never updated the chart! I think that, for a direct
>replacement of air filter, we should steer to Twin Air or something else!
>(Listers, any advice on this???)
>

Pippo, good to hear from you,have you considered adapting one of K&N`s
universal fit filters, you might be able to work one of those in there.


>I told you in a previous message that I'm reading about your work on the
>stock exhaust with great interest... I have mine retired after IDS
>installation, but I'm ready to unearth it if it's worth... I'll look like a
>leech, but I don't have nor the background, neither the tools to experiment
>the way you are... so I'll wait for the results! (Skip Faulkner, this
applies
>also for your writings about the same subject... very interesting!)


>Ciao Ted & Skip
>Pippo

I don`t know about Ted, but I`m drilling some relief holes in mine in such a
way as to keep my spark arrester intact and not destroy my fiberglass
packing. When I get it on the bike and test it, I`ll update the muffler
diagram to show where I drilled .

 Skip( who`s got to get the bike together first, and the sun`s
           even out)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR in Dripping Springs
Date: 21 Mar 1999 17:46:07 -0500


I saw a KLR riding with a red ST1000 in Dripping Springs, TX today (Sunday).

Was it anyone on the list?

Pat
Austin, Texas
1997 KLR650 w/11.2K miles




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you...
Date: 21 Mar 1999 15:57:28 -0700

>Kurtmeister, You know I'm a convert, but are you absolutely,
>categorically positive part of that 10ozs. Wasn't hiding in the engine
>somewhere when you THOUGHT you drained out all the oil?  Bogdan


Well it is true that I didn't wait all night like Eldon recommends...gently rocking the bike
back and forth..(g)...but, then again, I doubt that our good friends at the Kawasaki dealership
would give the lullably treatment...


>But what about the
>10 ounces you haven't added to bring the amount you've added to the
>factory recommended 2.5
>liters?

I added it after the experiment was offer including the 1+ ounces that our lister with
oppositional disorder suggested (g)....

Kurt





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 21 Mar 1999 16:11:45 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>


>
>
>Lois Eberhart wrote:
>
>> I repin locks at work all the time that other people have used WD40 in.
That
>> stuff collects a lot of dust .Graphite works OK but is messy. I use a
>> product called LAB LUBE on all the locks I work on. It is a Teflon
powder,
>> not as messy and very slick in locks. Doesn't take much to do an
excellent
>> job of lubing any kind of lock.
>>
>
>Where can one find LAB LUBE?
>
>DW
>
>
>

Maybe try your local veterinary?  ;<)

Sorry, I just woke up from a nap.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Chalz Milliken <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50 Opinions??
Date: 21 Mar 1999 19:17:55 -0500

 With all this talk of Motorcycle Oil, I wonder what anyone has to say
about oil additives like Slick 50. I have always thought most additives to
be gimics and sometimes causing more harm than good, but a while back my
grandfater changed my mind on that. Ya see, he has owned a car garage for
his whole life and he said that he can always tell when someone has used
Slick 50 in an engine that he has opened up. The engines are tighter and
cleaner. He swears it will keep your engine better lubed and lasting longer.

I was planning on running some Slick 50 through my A13 when I get around 2K
on the odometer. But after hearing about really slippery oil causing damage
by means of slippage to the clutch, I'm not sure about it anymore. Has
anyone else out there used Slick 50 before? Comments?

Chalz





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) GEAR LEVER POSITIONING
Date: 22 Mar 1999 00:24:11 -0000


My preferred riding style is to change down gears without the need to lift
my foot off the peg (especially if I am standing!).  However, the current
positioning of the gear lever necessitates that I have to lift my foot off
the peg, change down gear(s) and reposition my foot back on the peg.
Another affect, especially if the bike is still warming, is when changing
from 1st to 2nd neutral is engaged.  I realise this is because I haven't
lifted the lever high enough to engage second, but my left ankle just won't
lift my foot any higher.  To avoid feeling like a complete ass (as my bike
is particularly loud it is hard to cover that it is being revved while in
neutral) I lift my foot slightly when changing into second.

It annoyed me enough recently to experiment by repositioning the lever down
a notch or two on the spline to find the ideal position while sitting on the
bike.  I took it for a spin down the road to make sure it was comfortable.
I slipped it into first (mine clunks into 1st when cold, so does my
neighbours KR1) and found that it was easy to change up through the gears
but when I got to the first intersection, about 2kms down the road, it
wouldn't change down.  I pulled over thinking how could I have f******d the
gear box by moving the gear lever.  Upon inspection, as you probably have
already figured, when attempting to changing down, the gear lever was
hitting on the frame.  How on earth I got it into first gear initially still
has me perplexed as I couldn't get it to change down at all.  Luckily there
is a service station at this intersection.  So the net result, the gear
lever is back in the same position as when I bought the bike.

Has anyone else had a similar experience?  I would certainly like to hear
how you have overcome it.  I suspect that the gear lever may need to be bent
downwards but I would rather find out if someone has found another (better)
solution.


Regards,

Greig,
RIDE AND BE SEEN!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Interesting bikes spotted
Date: 21 Mar 1999 17:20:27 -0800

Saw a couple of bikes this PM in the parking lot of my local trailhead in
Oakland, CA. One was a Suzuki GP370 with new tires, very good condition. Its
owner obviously took very good care of it. Also a Honda NX650; I'd never
seen this. Dual sportish suspension, low front fender, bash guards,
windscreen, Nonfango hard tail box with side racks. Cool looking bike.
Anybody know anything about these bikes?

--
Rob Gendreau
Oakland, California
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Hugh Stout <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you...
Date: 21 Mar 1999 17:51:36 -0800

I've been following this thread with interest since I am about due for an
oil change before a long summer run.  Could it be - independent of anything
that Kawasaki says in its various manuals - that the difference in the two
schools about when the sight glass if full is whether one holds the bike
upright (which is hard to do solo without a center stand) or lets it stand
on the side stand?  Just an idea...I'll try to do my own measurements when
I change the oil and filter to see what I get.  I know that the height of
the oil in the window is critically sensitive to small angles of lean.


Hugh Stout
'74 R90/6
'78 CB400T2
'94 KLR650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Race Laughs....Long
Date: 21 Mar 1999 21:15:31 EST

In a message dated 3/20/99 10:38:44 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Some of the KLR stuff does look pretty cool on video. I'm looking forward
to
 getting into the editing booth and seeing what we can put together for the
 show on the KLR. >>
Bill, I envy you! Frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "chris" <[e-mail]>
Subject: NKLR (klr650) Di-cast model
Date: 21 Mar 1999 21:42:14 -0400

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00B2_01BE73E3.AEFF7420
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

FYI...Was at Toys-R-Us today and found a 1/18 scale di-cast model of a =
KLR650.  It's a pre-95 model (blue and white) made by Motormax.  It'll =
make a nice desk conversation piece!  Best of all, it only cost $1.99.  =
I've really been enjoying the Newsgroup and the info it provides, keep =
up the good work.
r/
Chris ('95 KLR650, Hampton VA)
AMA 410126 =20

------=_NextPart_000_00B2_01BE73E3.AEFF7420
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>FYI...Was at Toys-R-Us today and =
found a 1/18=20
scale di-cast model of a KLR650.  It's a pre-95 model (blue and =
white) made=20
by Motormax.  It'll make a nice desk conversation piece!  Best =
of all,=20
it only cost $1.99.  I've really been enjoying the Newsgroup and =
the info=20
it provides, keep up the good work.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>r/</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Chris ('95 KLR650, Hampton =
VA)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>AMA 410126  =
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00B2_01BE73E3.AEFF7420--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Leslie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) picked up bike at auction
Date: 22 Mar 1999 22:04:44 -0500

Saw a couple of bikes Oakland, CA. Also a Honda NX650; I'd never seen this.
Dual sportish suspension, low front fender, bash guards, windscreen,
Nonfango hard tail box with side racks. Cool looking bike. Anybody know
anything about these bikes?
Rob Gendreau Oakland, California  [e-mail]

    I have an NX250 such as the one described above, fun bike,,,can't ride
in mud because the front fender is only 2 inches off the tire....good
wheelie bike though....
    Got lucky at a bike auction this weekend, picked up a wrecked, no title
93' KLR650 for $200.....owner left it in the shop and didn't pick it up
after maintenance was done...guess he couldn't afford it....anyhow it will
make a great parts bike....only missing seat and all rear plastic, key and
gas cap...has new knobbies on it and the front plastic is all good...I'm
gonna see if the motor will fit in an old XR frame that I have..make a trick
dirt bike...Hopefully, since it looks like it was ridden mostly off road the
bike might have the progressive springs in it....find out when the sun
decides to show its pretty face again...

Enjoy Les 89 KLR650, 93 KLR650 hanger queen..







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you...
Date: 21 Mar 1999 20:11:06 -0700

|oil change before a long summer run.  Could it be - independent of anything
|that Kawasaki says in its various manuals - that the difference in the two
|schools about when the sight glass if full is whether one holds the bike
|upright (which is hard to do solo without a center stand) or lets it stand
|on the side stand?  Just an idea...I'll try to do my own measurements when
|I change the oil and filter to see what I get.  I know that the height of
|the oil in the window is critically sensitive to small angles of lean.


I'll go for anything...btw, mine has a centerstand...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR water crossings
Date: 21 Mar 1999 22:41:42 -0500

Question:
1-assuming a completely stock bike.
2-about 270 lbs of rider and gear, loaded in a rider backpack and rear bags.
3-shock set a mid point
4-  real easy entry and non-splashing forward motion

How deep a water crossing can I expect my KLR to ford before I need worry
about "drowning".
Should I plug the vent tubes prior?

And, is there anything I need to do to protect vitals like ignition?
If I leave on trips like this, I carry chain wax, so I'm not worried about
that. But to access a couple of private land riding areas a couple of hours
from home requires river crossings, with a mostly gravel bed.
Average depth depends on season and recent rainfall, but is usually less
than 20 inches or about 35 cm. and maybe about 25 to 60 feet (7 to 18m?)
across.
Any thoughts?
Thanks much, NY Pete




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eberhart <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 21 Mar 1999 19:40:27 -0800


--------------7643EFBF80865D0D87CEA583
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I get mine at the local lock and key shop. Sounds like Fred gets his at the flock
and bull shop. Be sure and get the powder form in the tube not the grease like
stuff.
Bill Eberhart

Dave Wormmeester wrote:

> Lois Eberhart wrote:
>
> > I repin locks at work all the time that other people have used WD40 in. That
> > stuff collects a lot of dust .Graphite works OK but is messy. I use a
> > product called LAB LUBE on all the locks I work on. It is a Teflon powder,
> > not as messy and very slick in locks. Doesn't take much to do an excellent
> > job of lubing any kind of lock.
> >
>
> Where can one find LAB LUBE?
>
> DW

--------------7643EFBF80865D0D87CEA583
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
I get mine at the local lock and key shop. Sounds like Fred gets his at
the flock and bull shop. Be sure and get the<b> powder</b> form in the
tube not the grease like stuff.
<br>Bill Eberhart
<p>Dave Wormmeester wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>Lois Eberhart wrote:
<p>> I repin locks at work all the time that other people have used WD40
in. That
<br>> stuff collects a lot of dust .Graphite works OK but is messy. I use
a
<br>> product called LAB LUBE on all the locks I work on. It is a Teflon
powder,
<br>> not as messy and very slick in locks. Doesn't take much to do an
excellent
<br>> job of lubing any kind of lock.
<br>>
<p>Where can one find LAB LUBE?
<p>DW</blockquote>
</html>

--------------7643EFBF80865D0D87CEA583--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Down-under tool storage
Date: 21 Mar 1999 20:53:38 -0800

Hey List -
I am feeling unreasonably proud of myself this minute, and I need to share
it with you wonderful folks. Several months ago, a few listers were kicking
around the idea of mounting a tool box in front of the bash plate. I
remember thinking that it would be nice to free up the storage space, and
keep that weight low and forward. But I also thought that there probably
wasn't any secure way to mount a tool box there that would allow any kind of
convenient access to the tools. I promptly forgot all about it - or so I
thought.

Apparently, in the deep recesses of my puny unconscious, I continued to
ponder this idea, because out of the blue, I woke up today with the entire
solution in my mind, and I just had to go  DO IT! It is fiendish in its
simplicity and low cost. A 2-foot length of 4" PVC pipe (I bought black -
pricier, but at 2$ a foot, it looks a LOT COOLER), 2 "access plugs" (4"
rubber plugs with big wingnuts - tighten the nut, and the rubber expands,
sealing the end of the PVC pipe), and 2 sturdy hose clamps. THAT'S IT! The
tube fits very neatly in front of the frame member, into a little recess
between Obe Wan's hiway pegs and the protruding bolts from the after market
bashplate. The hose clamps go around the tube, the hiway pegs, and through
the upper of the 2 holes on the front of the bash plate on each side. This
way, the hose clamps don't have to make any sharp bends against metal edges,
causing a potential failure spot. The sucker is TIGHT!  It's going nowhere.
The end plugs are awesome - totally tight and waterproof, but a breeze to
remove.

2 feet is probably just a little long - it sticks about 1/2" past the foot
pegs on each side, and the wingnuts on the end plugs stick out a little
further. Still, by my eyeball, there's no way I'm gonna lean enough to drag
them. It doesn't interfere with use of the pegs at all. I just loaded my new
tool tube with all the tools I could think of:

     8 mm - 24 mm combination wrenches
     spare shift lever
     spare clutch lever
     adjustable wrench
     "6-in-1" screwdriver
     full set of metric allen wrenches
     3/8" ratchet driver, 1/4" adapter, 3" extender
     needlenose pliers
     regular pliers
     circlip pliers
(all of the above were rolled together in a towel and cinched together -
just barely fit)
OEM tool kit
set of 6 allen heads on 3/8" drive sockets (6mm - 12mm)
6mm - 16mm sockets (in small tupperware)
CO2 tire inflater w/ 4 cartridges

We're talking about 15-20 pounds of tools, more or less. It's all real snug
- nothing shakes. Just went for a short test ride, couldn't really even tell
it was there. The front end felt a little stiffer on small bumps - that's
about it.

 I know this list of tools is overkill. I don't have a lot of roadside
repair experience, and I'm not really sure what I should keep in, what
should come out. I would certainly appreciate any input. In particular, I'd
like to leave out some of the bigger combination wrenches. That's where most
of the weight and length is. If I could leave out the bigger wrenches, I
could probably take a couple of inches off the tube.

Anyway, I'll quit patting myself on the back now - my arm's nearly broken.
It's just that this is my first original idea for a way to  make my KLR a
better bike. I can get pics - if people are interested, but it's really
pretty straightforward.

Mike Magier
A12 Groundhog
99ST1100 (4 more days . . .)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50 Opinions??
Date: 21 Mar 1999 21:52:39 -0700



................> SNIP<..................

> With all this talk of Motorcycle Oil, I wonder what anyone has to say
>about oil additives like Slick 50. > He swears it will keep your engine
better lubed and lasting longer.
>
>I was planning on running some Slick 50 through my A13 when I get around 2K
>on the odometer. But after hearing about really slippery oil causing damage
>by means of slippage to the clutch, I'm not sure about it anymore. Has
>anyone else out there used Slick 50 before? Comments?
>
>Chalz
>


Chalz,
   Besides Slick 50 having to pay off a class action suit because they
couldn`t verify any of their claims, PTFE, ( teflon ) becomes particulate
matter in an engine and is notorious for clogging some paper oil filters.
    I did try Slick 50 in my Suburban several years ago and all it did for
me was triple my oil consumption ( I had 119,000 miles on it) and later
found out your not supposed to put it in a high mileage engine as it will
loosen the accumulated sludge and deposits that help seal a high mileage
engine.
   I have seen no legitimate proof of the claims of any of the so called "
miracle additives". I`m not saying that there is not potentially any good
ones out there, I just don`t know of any.
    There is one that has been certified for aircraft use that seems to have
some decent field testing to back up their claims. It`s called AvBlend, and
it is not one of these " one time" treatments.
 It is an additive that temporarily fills in the porous surface of the metal
surfaces in an engine to reduce friction, and so far seems to work well in
aircraft engines, especially in engines with a history of valve sticking.
    Keep in mind that any of these so called " Super lubricants" may not do
very well in a wet clutch transmission. They predominantly are designed for
closed engines.
    Since there is no legitimate proof for the benefit of most additives, I
stay away from them until there is proof they work.


 Skip ( momma didn`t raise no fool, regardless of what SHE
             thinks )




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR water crossings
Date: 22 Mar 1999 00:03:56 EST

In a message dated 3/21/99 7:40:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

> How deep a water crossing can I expect my KLR to ford before I need worry
>  about "drowning".
The KLR is pretty well set up for water crossings with vent tubes exiting high
inside the rear fender and the air box intake on the top of the box.  I have
had water up just below the spark plug without flooding out.  I use lots of
silicone grease inside the plug boot.
Kurt G.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Interesting bikes spotted
Date: 21 Mar 1999 22:03:53 -0700

....................>SNIP<..................
>. Also a Honda NX650; I'd never
>seen this. Dual sportish suspension, low front fender, bash guards,
>windscreen, Nonfango hard tail box with side racks. Cool looking bike.
>Anybody know anything about these bikes?
>
>--
>Rob Gendreau
>Oakland, California

Rob,
  I had an NX650 for several years and really enjoyed the bike.
It had pretty soft suspension for what I was doing and after $700,
 it did pretty well. The engine was bulletproof in my opinion, and I got
over 40,000 miles on it with no major problems before I sold it. The tanks
are too small, but the previous owner had put a 5.9 gallon Acerbis tank on
it that fit perfect. It was very similar to the KLR in weight and handling.
It has an air-cooled engine with no heating problems. I replaced it with an
R100GS, but if I had it to do over, I probably would have kept it.
    It is very popular in Europe, and known as the Dominator. After-market
parts are rare over here, but lots in the European catalogs. It was a fun
bike.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage
Date: 21 Mar 1999 22:10:59 -0700



>Hey List -

 ..................>SNIP<..................................
>simplicity and low cost. A 2-foot length of 4" PVC pipe (I bought black -
>pricier, but at 2$ a foot, it looks a LOT COOLER), 2 "access plugs" (4"
>rubber plugs with big wingnuts - tighten the nut, and the rubber expands,
>sealing the end of the PVC pipe), and 2 sturdy hose clamps. THAT'S IT! The
>tube fits very neatly in front of the frame member, into a little

...........>SNIP<...........................
>Anyway, I'll quit patting myself on the back now - my arm's nearly broken.
>It's just that this is my first original idea for a way to  make my KLR a
>better bike. I can get pics - if people are interested, but it's really
>pretty straightforward.
>
>Mike Magier
>A12 Groundhog
>99ST1100 (4 more days . . .)
>

Mike, great idea. That`s what makes this List so good, the number of ideas
for one problem allow us to choose what might work for us.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KNLR POWER
Date: 21 Mar 1999 22:19:16 -0700




>I think I have you all beat. Try this..... Detroit Series 60  6 cylinder
>diesel (out of a 1994 Freightliner), coupled to a Fuller Road Ranger 10
>speed transmission. 425 ponies developing 1350 lbs of torque.
>Now all I have to do is design a sufficient frame and wheel combo.
>But first I need to take my medicine, heh heh heh.
>" ....they're coming to take me away, haha, they're coming to take me away,
>hoho..."
>Adios, NY Pete


That should work great for towing my 18' horse trailer.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Richard Ohnstad <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) First shift
Date: 21 Mar 1999 22:40:40 -0700




   " Eldon recommends pulling in the clutch and blipping the throttle."

This technique has always worked for my '94KLR, and I also used it =
sucessfully on an '83 Venture Royale (which could really jump when it =
was cold).

Richard Ohnstad=20










-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) slick 50 and the manufacturer
Date: 22 Mar 1999 00:55:21 EST

If the manufacturers of cars and truck deemed this product to be vital to the
longevity of their vehicles, then I would assume that you would find it in the
crankcase from the factory. Not there is it. Look in the owners manual. Not
there either? Get my point?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you...
Date: 21 Mar 1999 22:51:19 -0700


>Well it is true that I didn't wait all night like Eldon recommends...gently
rocking the bike
>back and forth..(g)...but, then again, I doubt that our good friends at the
Kawasaki dealership
>would give the lullably treatment...
>
>>Kurt



Kurt, I talked with Roger Davis Thursday, one of Kaw.`s tech engineers,
getting their side of the oil specification thing ( I`m not letting this
thing go, I`ve talked to 4 oil company engineers, two research facilities,
and 3 motorcycle engine manufacturers in the last week ) and asked him about
the oil level in the KLR. He said they get these questions a lot. He said
that due to oil that sometimes get trapped in the galleys and other recesses
of the engine, rarely is all the oil drained, unless you were to actually
lay the bike down for a few hours and then switch to the other side. Leaning
the bike is not sufficient to always completely drain the engine, and
they`ve accounted for this. He said that if you follow their instructions
and use the site glass properly, they guarantee no problems associated with
too low of oil. He said that they aren`t about to court a law suit by not
being a 100% about the proper way to judge the oil level in their engines.
He said that in all the bikes, over all the years, that use this system,
never have they had a problem. If there has been, he`s the one that would
have heard about it.  In other words, sorry Eldon, but don`t fix something
that ain`t broke.
    Sorry guys, but I`m sticking to the site glass until I know to do
otherwise. I change my oil like Ron did in his last post, and then add
whatever is necessary to bring it up to the proper level on the glass.
    Kurt, I applaud your endeavor to check things for yourself. Any opinion
from anyone, including mine, should always be suspect unless you feel it has
been sufficiently researched. I`m so suspect of my own views, that that`s
the reason I research so much.


Skip ( who`s looking forward to an interesting Moab)






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) handlebars
Date: 22 Mar 1999 01:11:27 EST

Hey guys, bent the bars this weekend and I am looking for some replacements.
From looking around on the web I can see that Renthal XR600 bars are well
liked but I would like some opinions on this.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you...
Date: 21 Mar 1999 23:12:37 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>too low of oil. He said that they aren`t about to court a law suit by not
>being a 100% about the proper way to judge the oil level in their engines.


Okay Skip here is the $60,000 question if I put 2.6L in my KLR every oil &
filter change which I do am I going to have any negative result?

I was changing the oil and filter in my GS today and was trying to put in
exactly 2.9L (as per the manual) when I just said screw it and put in the
whole 3.0L rather than measure it exactly.

I can't see how this can be a major problem, but since we are back on oil I
thought I'd ask!

Cheers,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650)  Par 4  KLR
Date: 22 Mar 1999 01:28:13 EST

On 3/20/99, [e-mail] writes: snip

>anyone tried to make a mount or carry a set of golf clubs on the KLR


 I haven't tried it Dan, but USA VenturCraft makes a fiberglass
 moto trailer called the 'Grand Kruiser.'  It weighs 165 lb and
 carries 19 cu ft of cargo. Their ad says it's, "Enough room for
 two sets of golf clubs and your extra gear". It includes a
 lockable lid latch, independent torsion suspension, and
 4.8 x 12 Tires.  Price is $1100. They also make a smaller
 'Kruiser' weighing 140 lb with 15 cu ft of cargo for $800.
 You can opt to have it painted to match your bike.=A0=A0

 http://www.venturcraft.com/prod.htm

 Redondo Ron (wondering how many of these will show up in Moab)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Race Laughs....Long
Date: 21 Mar 1999 23:16:21 -0800




>In a message dated 3/20/99 10:38:44 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail]
>writes:
>
><< Some of the KLR stuff does look pretty cool on video. I'm looking
forward
>to getting into the editing booth and seeing what we can put together for
the
> show on the KLR. >>



Which show are you referring to?  Will we be able to see it?

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage
Date: 21 Mar 1999 23:22:36 -0800


-----Original Message-----


> I can get pics - if people are interested, but it's really
>pretty straightforward.


No, that's alright...  WHAT DO YOU THINK!!  OF COURSE WE'RE INTERESTED
MAN!!!
Bring 'em on... =<)

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage
Date: 22 Mar 1999 07:31:42 -0500

Hi
When I get a new bike, the toolkit is usually gone, missing or just plain
inadequit. Seeing as I do all my own maintenance, this is how I figuire out
what I need to bring....
In the course of usual maintenance or repair, what ever tool is needed to do
the job, goes into the tool kit, within reason of course. The big torque
wrenches, air compressor and the like stay home. But I almost always have
the tools necessary to what needs to be done, so should I really, REALLY
want to, most of my maintenance work can be done where ever I happen to be.
So long as a particular individual is willing to compromise, it amazing the
level of repair that can be done with a minimum of equipment. At the moment
I could maintain any of my 3 bikes without opening the shed for anything but
chemical items like oils.
NY Pete
-----Original Message-----


>Hey List -
>I am feeling unreasonably proud of myself this minute, and I need to share
>it with you wonderful folks. Several months ago, a few listers were kicking
>around the idea of mounting a tool box in front of the bash plate. I
>remember thinking that it would be nice to free up the storage space, and
>keep that weight low and forward. But I also thought that there probably
>wasn't any secure way to mount a tool box there that would allow any kind
of
>convenient access to the tools. I promptly forgot all about it - or so I
>thought.
>
>Apparently, in the deep recesses of my puny unconscious, I continued to
>ponder this idea, because out of the blue, I woke up today with the entire
>solution in my mind, and I just had to go  DO IT! It is fiendish in its
>simplicity and low cost. A 2-foot length of 4" PVC pipe (I bought black -
>pricier, but at 2$ a foot, it looks a LOT COOLER), 2 "access plugs" (4"
>rubber plugs with big wingnuts - tighten the nut, and the rubber expands,
>sealing the end of the PVC pipe), and 2 sturdy hose clamps. THAT'S IT! The
>tube fits very neatly in front of the frame member, into a little recess
>between Obe Wan's hiway pegs and the protruding bolts from the after market
>bashplate. The hose clamps go around the tube, the hiway pegs, and through
>the upper of the 2 holes on the front of the bash plate on each side. This
>way, the hose clamps don't have to make any sharp bends against metal
edges,
>causing a potential failure spot. The sucker is TIGHT!  It's going nowhere.
>The end plugs are awesome - totally tight and waterproof, but a breeze to
>remove.
>
>2 feet is probably just a little long - it sticks about 1/2" past the foot
>pegs on each side, and the wingnuts on the end plugs stick out a little
>further. Still, by my eyeball, there's no way I'm gonna lean enough to drag
>them. It doesn't interfere with use of the pegs at all. I just loaded my
new
>tool tube with all the tools I could think of:
>
>     8 mm - 24 mm combination wrenches
>     spare shift lever
>     spare clutch lever
>     adjustable wrench
>     "6-in-1" screwdriver
>     full set of metric allen wrenches
>     3/8" ratchet driver, 1/4" adapter, 3" extender
>     needlenose pliers
>     regular pliers
>     circlip pliers
>(all of the above were rolled together in a towel and cinched together -
>just barely fit)
>OEM tool kit
>set of 6 allen heads on 3/8" drive sockets (6mm - 12mm)
>6mm - 16mm sockets (in small tupperware)
>CO2 tire inflater w/ 4 cartridges
>
>We're talking about 15-20 pounds of tools, more or less. It's all real snug
>- nothing shakes. Just went for a short test ride, couldn't really even
tell
>it was there. The front end felt a little stiffer on small bumps - that's
>about it.
>
> I know this list of tools is overkill. I don't have a lot of roadside
>repair experience, and I'm not really sure what I should keep in, what
>should come out. I would certainly appreciate any input. In particular, I'd
>like to leave out some of the bigger combination wrenches. That's where
most
>of the weight and length is. If I could leave out the bigger wrenches, I
>could probably take a couple of inches off the tube.
>
>Anyway, I'll quit patting myself on the back now - my arm's nearly broken.
>It's just that this is my first original idea for a way to  make my KLR a
>better bike. I can get pics - if people are interested, but it's really
>pretty straightforward.
>
>Mike Magier
>A12 Groundhog
>99ST1100 (4 more days . . .)
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bill Wright <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650)Aluminum or Steel?
Date: 22 Mar 1999 07:48:23 -0500

While riding on Saturday down GA.180, affectionately known as the 12
miles of smiles, I was following Eric Jasniewicz.  Leaning into the
turns, draging the footpegs, similing all the way.  Well, most of the
way.  I came around one curve right on Eric's tail when I hear this bang
and a metal to metal grind.  I thought at first that I threw a brake
pad.  After testing the brakes, I quickly discovered that the brakes
were fine and came to a quick stop as Eric was disappearing down the
mountain.  I put down the kick stand and started to remove helmet,
jacket, etc. when I noticed the bike falling to the right.  Thank
goodness for those Pelican cases.  No damage, except for my ego.  Two
vehicles came by while I was horsing the KLR back onto its rubber.
After establishing that I was physically ok, just stupid, they proceeded
on down the mountain.  On examination I noticed that the I had thrown
the chain.  No problem, this happened on my dirt bikes several times.
OOPS, what happened to those nice sharp teeth on the rear sprocket.  All
that was there were some cute little bumps.  This sprocket is only 7000
miles old!!  The OEM sprocket lasted 16000 miles.  I remounted the
chain, adjusted tension, and eased her down the mountain.  Yes, Eric did
come back to find out why I wasn't still on his tail.  One look at my
sprocket and all he could say was WOW.  Well, I tried to save a couple
of pounds by going for the more expensive aluminum sprocket, rather than
the cheaper steel one.  Well, I won't make that one again.  I
successfully babied her home while Eric followed.  On the down side,
when I ordered the new sprocket, I also ordered 2 new helmets for my SO
and I and a tank bag.  Amazing how those catalogs draw you in!!  Hope to
be back in the saddle next weekend.

Bill Wright (going back to being the man of steel)
Hotlanta, GA.
98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 23,000 miles




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Shift of the Day
Date: 22 Mar 1999 07:51:26 +0000

> This is not something you have to live with.
> Frank

Frank,

My '87 750 Ninja did the clunk and spin thing with the rear wheel
everytime I first started out with it when it was brand new. I found
that starting it on the center stand, letting it warm up, and then
putting it in first (while still on the center stand) allowed the clutch
to work without getting that drive train strain.  The rear wheel spun
until I kicked it back up into neutral.  Once I was sure the wheel
stopped spinning I nudged the bike forward off the center stand and then
dropped in first again and it acted OK.  As I put more miles on the bike
it seemed to get to be less of a problem.  I also noted that if I
started the bike up for a warm up and shut it down without riding it,
the next time I started it up (whenever) the sticky clutch thing would
definitely occur.

For some reason my A2 has only displayed a sticky clutch problem a few
times but not to the extent that some of the listers have mentioned.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR 600 Acerbis tank info request.
Date: 22 Mar 1999 07:58:54 -0500

The 600 was mine, theres still a pic on the thumper page someplace. should
be under the older pictures. I dont know if acerbis makes the tank anymore,
but I do have some comments about it. The tank was formed with lots of small
bubbles in it that caused pinholes at the surface, made the tank look dirty.
Also the gas vapors seep through the plastic and eat the adhesive of the
stickers. If you do decide to get one, please keep my email address and tell
me when you do. I have some stickers scanned and edited in photoshop that
you can print on a good quality color printer and use in place of the ~25$US
apiece ones.

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 1999 11:29 AM


Hello' Mike and dear fellow listers...

If my memory serves me at all...

is your 600 equipped with an Acerbis plastic tank??? I remember seeing a
picture but I cannot recall where it is! If it's yours, How long it is you
have that tank?... how does it hold to ageing??? Vaguely thinking about
replacing my tiny 600 tank with an aftermarket! Tnx!

Best regards from Pippo in Italy

--
Politicians should read science fiction, not westerns and detective
stories.
-- Arthur C. Clarke





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 22 Mar 1999 08:01:22 +0000

> you are breaking in all the parts while it is cool out.  Deceleration is
> important too because it sucks oil up on the back side of the piston and
> rings. Well thats my .02 worth, Frank


That's right.

By running the bike cautiously up and down the revs (strong but not
extreme) it helps the rings to seat better (lugging is prohibited as it
rocks the piston and potentially causes more wear than reving it up
short of redline).  Also by running at various speeds....like highway,
then backroad, then 30-ish, then maybe highway again etc...it makes the
metal in the cylinders settle in at different operating
temperatures....almost like a tempering effect.  It has something to do
with the way the atomic structures of the metals are effected by heating
and cooling.

Any metalurgists out there who can add to this?

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dale Borgeson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) GEAR LEVER POSITIONING
Date: 22 Mar 1999 07:45:33 -0600 (CST)

> Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 00:24:11 -0000
> From: "Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: (klr650) GEAR LEVER POSITIONING
>
> my foot off the peg (especially if I am standing!).  However, the current
> positioning of the gear lever necessitates that I have to lift my foot off
> the peg, change down gear(s) and reposition my foot back on the peg.
snip snip
> Has anyone else had a similar experience?  I would certainly like to hear
> how you have overcome it.  I suspect that the gear lever may need to be bent
> downwards but I would rather find out if someone has found another (better)
> solution.

I have this same problem. I have very long legs and on all bikes I've
owned I lower the gear shift lever so that I can get positive shifts. When
I tried to do this on the KLR I discovered the same thing you did, the
frame prevents lowering the lever even one spline.

After much thinking I decided that the only solution involved a
manufacturing a complex shift linkage or changing the way I shift.

My solution is to always ride the KLR with boots that are taller in the
toe and I still almost have to lift my whole foot (leg) to get positive
shifts. I know that this solution sucks but it's all I've got.

Cheers
--
Dale Borgeson    [e-mail]    Minneapolis, MN U.S.A.
"Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Break In (NKLR)
Date: 22 Mar 1999 08:50:57 +0000

I'm going to have to spend some time going over the manual (for what
> that's worth) and see the particulars about the tolerances.
>
> Jeff---who should be packing for his trip tomorrow.


Jeff,

FWIW

My KLR manuals ('88) suggested SE or SF grades of oil.  There's about
20,000 miles on the bike and I've been using Castrol automotive and
motorcycle grades over the years plus other brands in a pinch (but
rare).  Currently I've got enough Castrol 20W-50 (Motorcycle Specific)
API Service Grade SG to get me through the summer.  The dealer who sold
me the bike said the 20W-50 is better for the tranny in hot weather, and
the dealer I have to go to now told me 20W-50 is too heavy (use
10W-40).  I'm a believer in going with the heavier oil because my area
is a resort location and can be prone to traffic jams.  Need I say
more?

I've had no clutch slippage using this oil.  Also I check my clutch
cable adjustment to make sure it is slack just a hair (though this means
the clutch lever will vibrate and be a little noisey sometimes) so that
the plates are mated properly.  If there is too much slack the shifts
will be clunky because the plates don't get enough space on the squeeze.

The KLR does use a little oil and I monitor the sight glass.  It's not a
lot of usage but if I was going for a 300 miler at highway speeds of 70
I would top it off after I got back with a splash.  There is some carbon
residue on my white fender near the exhaust but no visible blue oil
burning smoke.  It cleans off easily with washing and I've been using
"Rain Dance" wax to get the rest off.  The manual refers to potential
carbon build up in the muffler anyways and thats why there is a screw on
the bottom of it so it can be removed if required.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Oil Capacity
Date: 22 Mar 1999 09:08:19 -0500

Kurt,

Has anybody tried measuring the amount of oil actually drained from the engine?

Also, wouldn't putting the bike on the center-stand change the angle of the
engine? It would be interesting to see which people on which side of the great
oil divide are using the center-stand method, and which are holding the bike
straight with no center-stand.

Matt Duftler
Tarrytown, NY
A9





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) slick 50 and the manufacturer
Date: 22 Mar 1999 08:19:44 -0600

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> If the manufacturers of cars and truck deemed this product to be vital to the
> longevity of their vehicles, then I would assume that you would find it in the
> crankcase from the factory. Not there is it. Look in the owners manual. Not
> there either? Get my point?


Fair point, but...just to play 'devil's advocate' for a moment...I don't
think any of the major manufacturers really WANT their vehicles to last
a LONG LONG LONG time...

Another example...for years we've been seeing messages in the owner's
manuals that the bodies are "galvanized, double-dipped, rust-proofed" -
and "NO EXTRA (aftermarket) rustproofing is needed or reccommended"...
...but these cars and trucks STILL rust.

phil



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Capacity
Date: 22 Mar 1999 07:26:37 -0700

|Has anybody tried measuring the amount of oil actually drained from the engine?
|
|Also, wouldn't putting the bike on the center-stand change the angle of the
|engine? It would be interesting to see which people on which side of the great
|oil divide are using the center-stand method, and which are holding the bike
|straight with no center-stand.
|


This is a good idea Matt, would someone who is about to change their oil volunteer to do this
for us. Otherwise, I'll do it next time. Eldon drains his all night leaning to the right and
then to the left. I drain mine for about 2 hours leaning it on the centerstand to the right and
to the left. It is hard for me to believe that there is 10 ounces left in the engine...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) remove
Date: 22 Mar 1999 09:25:44 EST

please remove me from email list.....thanks



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you...
Date: 22 Mar 1999 07:28:52 -0700


|Kurt, I talked with Roger Davis Thursday, one of Kaw.`s tech engineers,
|getting their side of the oil specification thing ( I`m not letting this
|thing go, I`ve talked to 4 oil company engineers, two research facilities,
|and 3 motorcycle engine manufacturers in the last week ) and asked him about
|the oil level in the KLR.

Skip, I love the way you gather this info...there are still some anomalies...because Redondo
says his takes the full 2.5 liters to reach the sight glass...mine takes 2.2 liters. Does the
owner's manual (I don't have it handy) say to change the oil and fill to the sight glass or to
add 2.5 liters at an oil change?

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) UFO Super Bike --low fender installation question
Date: 22 Mar 1999 09:30:13 +0000

My initial impression is that the fender
> looks very short to keep mud, etc. off  the engine, etc.(any comments
> from those of you using this fender?)  I would appreciate any
> information/tips on installing the fender from those of you who have
> been through the process.

Perhaps a mudflap?

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New Headlight concern..
Date: 22 Mar 1999 09:48:52 +0000

[e-mail] wrote:
>
>         So I am out on my second ride this year, I get home and my
> headlight was out (7000 km, first time this has ever happened). I
> figured replacing the OEM bulb with a H4 90/130w, was the reason. --
> Verified 10A fuse blew, replaced it...still no headlight !! Re-installed
> the OEM bulb, still no light...confirmed all connections were good.
> Tapped the lens and Yammo - light returns ??  Now, every time I remove

Brian,

I don't have a quick fix but I would examine the wire plug connections
under the headlight area just to make sure everything is hooked up OK
(ground etc..) especially if the bike gets washed alot or ridden in the
rain and corrosion could occur in a socket. Also it's possible you've
got a new bulb with a floating filament in there that disconnects when
it cools and when you start up the bike you get nothing until you bang
on the light and cause it to vibrate and contact the filament holder
thus making a connection.  I had a similar problem with another bike and
got a year out of a lamp before it totally went. It's possible to get a
bad bulb out of the box.  If you take out the bulb and hold it up to the
light can you may be able see if the filament looks attached properly.

Of course if you had the time and money to get another bulb, and it's
good to have as a backup anyways, you could try that one and this would
tell you if the problem was machine or bulb specific.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) handlebars
Date: 22 Mar 1999 06:52:28 -0800

I put Rentahll Desert High bars on mine, I really like em.
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage
Date: 22 Mar 1999 09:54:50 EST

In a message dated 3/21/99 10:56:56 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< It's just that this is my first original idea for a way to  make my KLR a
 better bike. I can get pics - if people are interested, but it's really
 pretty straightforward. >>
Mike, this was a great idea for a lot of storage jobs, thanks and keep
sharing. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) <NKLR> AlpineStar's Tech 8 / 5
Date: 22 Mar 1999 08:10:42 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>
>    Any opinions about the Alpinestar Tech 5 or Tech 8 boots ...  Are they
>waterproof  ?
>

I have some MSR System 6 boots that are made by Alpinestar.  I believe they
are like the Tech 8 boots.  These boots are the best made boots that I have
ever had or seen.  I really like the replaceable instep.  I believe that the
System 6 boots costs less than the Tech 8 too.  They are as waterproof as
any dirtbike boot out there.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) slick 50 and the manufacturer
Date: 22 Mar 1999 10:07:58 +0000

J.P.Zucht wrote:
>
> [e-mail] wrote:
> >
> > If the manufacturers of cars and truck deemed this product to be vital to the
> > longevity of their vehicles, then I would assume that you would find it in the
> > crankcase from the factory. Not there is it. Look in the owners manual. Not
> > there either? Get my point?
>
> Fair point, but...just to play 'devil's advocate' for a moment...I don't
> think any of the major manufacturers really WANT their vehicles to last
> a LONG LONG LONG time...
>
> Another example...for years we've been seeing messages in the owner's
> manuals that the bodies are "galvanized, double-dipped, rust-proofed" -
> and "NO EXTRA (aftermarket) rustproofing is needed or reccommended"...
> ...but these cars and trucks STILL rust.
>
> phil


FWIW,

A machinist told me years ago that the PTE in Slick 50 will cause a
"leaves in the drain effect" like in those tiny holes you see when you
pull a valve cover on a car that allow the oil to drain back into the
system.  The teflon does lubricate well, but in a micro-view it's like
chunks of plastic.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage
Date: 22 Mar 1999 10:18:11 +0000

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/21/99 10:56:56 PM Central Standard Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << It's just that this is my first original idea for a way to  make my KLR a
>  better bike. I can get pics - if people are interested, but it's really
>  pretty straightforward. >>
> Mike, this was a great idea for a lot of storage jobs, thanks and keep
> sharing. frank

Mike,

If you post a pic let us know where we can view it.  My only concern
would be if it stuck out too much on the sides that it could get hung up
on a branch.  Just curious....did you think of mounting it off one of
the hand-grab rails like a fishing pole holder?

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Allan Phipps)
Subject: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck
Date: 22 Mar 1999 08:54:28 -0800

A friend is going to haul my 96 KLR from Victoria, BC to Fort St. John (a
good two days drive) in the back of his Mazda pickup.  What do I need to
know about hauling a KLR in the back of a truck.  I want to make sure it is
secured properly.  What kind of straps should I use, how do I tie down the
bike so it won't fall over/out, is there a good way to lock the bike to the
truck, should I cover the front of the bike/windscreen with anything to
protect it from flying rocks (still lots of gravel on the roads from the
winter), is it possible to put the bike on one side of the truck box (my
friend has some other stuff to haul too), .... ??  If it matters, the truck
is a 96 Mazda extended cab 4X4, with either a regular box or short box.

You may be wondering why I'm having the bike hauled here instead of riding
it.  I would really like to ride it but I just got my licence last summer
(did a MSF course) and I haven't spent any time riding in traffic.  I
thought a 15 hour trip would not be a good plan for my first time riding
the bike.  I bought it a few months ago, but I actually haven't seen the
bike yet.  Can't wait to get it!!

Thanks in advance for your advice!!

Al
Fort St. John, BC
Canada
96 KLR





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck
Date: 22 Mar 1999 09:20:43 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>A friend is going to haul my 96 KLR from Victoria, BC to Fort St. John (a
>good two days drive) in the back of his Mazda pickup.  What do I need to
>know about hauling a KLR in the back of a truck.

Hello Allan,

Japanese trucks don't have the strongest metal for their beds.  You will
need to put a piece of plywood or some other brace in the front of your
front tire and center the bike in the back of the bed.  You will need two
tie down points in the front of the bed preferably in line with the forks.
Use good quality tie downs.  I would recommend Ancras, not something cheap
like you would get at Walmart. ;<)  You can use a piece of 2X4 under the
fender and on top of the tire.  This will allow you to compress the tire and
not the springs when you cinch down your bike.  Or you can use a world
famous "Fred's fork saver"  this does the same thing as the 2X4 only looks
better and makes me rich.  NOT!!  Don't put the bike on the center stand if
it has one and tie the back of the bike so that it can't move side to side.
More than likely your bike will be longer than the bed so you will have to
leave the end gate down or tie it up as far as it will go.  Definitely do
not lay the bike over on its side.  Make sure that your gas is in the off
position.  This is because when you are hauling your bike the carb will
loose a little gas into the engine while it is not running and will end up
in the engine oil.(not good)

You are throwing away memories that you will have for the rest of your life.
Riding your new bike for the first time on a 15 hour trip, what could be
better than that?  But you are probably right.  Being new at riding, it is
better to be safe than sorry.  Good luck!

Fred  (live to ride another day)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Chalz Milliken <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50
Date: 22 Mar 1999 09:34:26 -0500

Thanks for the input. I understand both sides of the story and am still
confused. I do believe manufactures build things that don't last forever
just to make money, and some oil additives can do more harm than good.

I have used Slick 50 in my Toyota truck that has 170,000 miles on it and
runs as good as new, and I know a trusted mechanic that swears by the
stuff.

So I'm going to compromise. I will use less than the recommended amount
of Slick 50 for less than the recommended amount of time.

If my engine explodes or something, I will keep the list updated.
I knew that extended warranty would be worth it!!

Chalz
A13



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) ignition sticking
Date: 22 Mar 1999 08:27:54 -0800 (PST)

Sarah,

I may be late in my reply, but I have been off the list
for a few days. Anyway, I suggest this, as I have had
similar problems: I used a silicone lube to "wash out"
the gum in the key switch, (which is most likely
keeping the pins from sliding with the notches in the
key) after drying completely I dumped some dry graphite
and it worked well. My thought was the WD40 would leave
enough residual to collect dust and put me in deeper
water soon.


--- Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]> wrote:
> So, my key is being a bit finicky about going into
> the ignition. Once
> I settle it into the pins, it turns fine, but
getting
> it in and out is a
> bit of a bear. Is it ok for me to put WD40 on the
key
> and use it to lube
> up the pins? Or is that bad? Or is there a better
> commonly available
> substance?
>
> Sarah
>
> --
> Beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing,
> There is a field.
> I'll meet you there.
>                 -Rumi
>
>
>
>
>

===
Rev. Chuck
'99 KLR651
:^)>+



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Low Mount Fender Pic
Date: 22 Mar 1999 11:40:41 -0500

Anybody got a picture of this setup that we can check out?
BG




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50
Date: 22 Mar 1999 09:40:09 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>So I'm going to compromise. I will use less than the recommended amount
>of Slick 50 for less than the recommended amount of time.
>
>If my engine explodes or something, I will keep the list updated.
>I knew that extended warranty would be worth it!!


Chalz,

If you put slick50 in your engine and it explodes (not likely, but something
else may happen) don't count on Kawi's extended warranty to fix the problem,
most manufacturers are pretty finicky with their warranties and will ensure
you followed the recommended maint procedures or had a dealer service your
bike.

I don't know how (or if) they can detect slick50, but if they do I doubt
they will fix anything for free as it is not something they suggested you
put in the engine.  You could go after slick50, but I doubt you'll get
satisfaction.

I am not saying don't try it, just be realistic about the consequences if
you do experience a negative side effect of some sort (perhaps not as
catastrophic as you suggested, but maybe equally expensive)

On that subject I'd recommend all the home mechanics on the list keep good
records on the work you perform on your bike if its under warranty, even
going so far as to document the more elaborate procedures (vale adjust) with
pictures.  Its not a big deal if you do it at the time and if you have to
make a warranty claim at least you can show you followed the manufacturer's
specs.

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR:  Army vs Navy
Date: 21 Mar 1999 20:48:38 -0800

Morgan-  That lighthouse joke is classic.  For technical accuracy sake
though, the USS Abraham Lincoln is in the Pacific Fleet, (I rode her on her
maiden voyage from Norfolk, where she was built, to San Diego on her way to
first homeport of Alameda) homeported in Bremerton, WA.  Here's a good one I
hope you and our fellow listers like.
Darrel A12
CPO, USN

>Two army soldiers boarded a flight from Dallas to Atlanta.  One sat in
>the window seat and one in the middle seat.  Just before take off, a Sailor
>got on the plane and took the isle seat next to the two soldiers.  Right
>after take off the Sailor kicked off his shoes, stretched his legs and was
>settling in when the soldier in the window seat said, "I think I'll get
>up and get a Coke".
>
>"No problem",  said the Sailor.  "I'll get it for you".
>
>While he was gone, the soldier picked up one of the Sailor's shoes and
>spit into it. When the Sailor returned with the Coke, the other soldier
>said "That looks good, I'll get one too".
>
>Again the Sailor obligingly went to fetch another Coke for the second
>soldier and while he was gone the soldier picked up the Sailor's other
>shoe and spit into it.
>
>The Sailor returned with the second Coke and they all sat back and
>enjoyed the rest of the flight.  As the plane was landing, the Sailor
>slipped on his shoes and knew immediately what had happened.
>
>"How long must this go on?" the Sailor asked.  "All this inter-service
>rivalry?  This fighting?  This animosity?  This spitting in shoes and
pissing in >Cokes?"..........................




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Winslow <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry. Long.
Date: 22 Mar 1999 11:52:33 -0500 (EST)

Hello.

So, I take my new for me '94 KLR from Wash. DC to Long Island, NY on
Friday (after changing oil, filter, and doing some basic checks). It
performs beautifully on the trip up despite nasty traffic backups in
various spots.

Coming home, fill up the gas tank before departing. Stop once more before
hitting the road for a visit and take off. Everything goes well until the
toll booths for the bridge to Staten Island. The bike dies on me as I que
up for the toll. It won't start up again. Battery power looks great,
starter is working, it just won't catch. Different choke postions have no
effect.

After walking through the tolls, I push it to the side and am able to
push start it down the nearest off ramp. Seems to run ok, so let's keep
going. At the next set of tolls I accidentally hit the kill switch while
trying to keep the revs up and get money out of my pocket. It starts right
up, though. Maybe there's no problem, I think.

The next set of tolls at the end of the Jersey turnpike it wants to die. I
have to work to keep the revs up, but eventually lose it. Another push
through the tolls. I get it started again after a short delay by working
the throttle a bit as I hit the starter. It still doesn't want to idle
smoothly. I crank up the idle speed to help me out, sometimes it will idle
at the higher setting, but other times it will want to crap out.

Next tolls, same problems, get it going, moving down the road I now
notice that the temp gauge is rising. It was fine until then. I slow down
which helps at first, but some miles down the road it's rising ominously,
so I pull off at a handy exit. After letting it cool down it starts right
up like nothing is wrong (with choke, it had cooled that much).

Anybody have a clue as to what might be going on here? Once it was
rolling the power seemed to be fine. I figure the first
problem might be unrelated to the cooling problem. Maybe I got a bad batch
of gas in NY before hitting the road? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Now I need to go back and pick the bike up from Aberdeen, Maryland where I
left it. I wonder if it just might act like nothing happened.

Puzzled in DC.

Eric Winslow




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry. Long.
Date: 22 Mar 1999 10:02:39 -0700


>Anybody have a clue as to what might be going on here? Once it was
>rolling the power seemed to be fine. I figure the first
>problem might be unrelated to the cooling problem. Maybe I got a bad batch
>of gas in NY before hitting the road? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>
>Now I need to go back and pick the bike up from Aberdeen, Maryland where I
>left it. I wonder if it just might act like nothing happened.


Eric, on problems that could be gas related or spark related and are difficult to
trace I like to build a base to build on. So, for me, the first thing I would do is
pull the carb and give it a good cleaning and inspection with special attention to the
pilot jet, floats, and diaphragm....be careful not to lose the needle collar...then
when you get it back on you can be pretty sure it is not fuel related...put an inline
filter along with it and look for any rust in the gas tank...My guess is that will
correct it...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb
Date: 22 Mar 1999 12:04:02 -0500

Just look my KLX out for a ride late last week with the new pipe and carb. I
was grinning like a madman the whole way. What a difference. I highly
recommend both of these mods to KLR and KLX owners. Rolling the throttle
produces some unbelievable low end torque.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Low Mount Fender Pic
Date: 22 Mar 1999 10:16:22 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Anybody got a picture of this setup that we can check out?
>BG
>
>
>

I have a photo of just the low fender I can send to you.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry. Long.
Date: 22 Mar 1999 12:29:04 +0000

> problem might be unrelated to the cooling problem. Maybe I got a bad batch
> of gas in NY before hitting the road? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Now I need to go back and pick the bike up from Aberdeen, Maryland where I
> left it. I wonder if it just might act like nothing happened.
>
> Puzzled in DC.
>
> Eric Winslow

Eric,

It does seem that the bike started acting up not too long after you got
the gas.  If there was a lot of water in it your carb would definitely
be effected.  Was this '94 machine left idle without being ridden by the
pervious owner?  Was the gas left in the tank for a long time?  It
almost sounds like something is restricting your fuel flow either
through the petcock or the carb.  For the fact that your engine was
running hotter that's a sure sign right there you're running lean.  In
other words it's not a spark problem, not an air problem, it's a fuel
problem!  There may have been impurities in the gas that took a while to
build up in the fuel system under use.  If you hadn't said that the bike
was filled up with gas I'd think you were running low on gas and
everytime you speed up, slowed down, went uphill, or downhill, the gas
level in the tank change around the internal fuel pipes that feed to the
petcock (high one for normal and low one for reserve).

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Winslow <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry.
Date: 22 Mar 1999 12:43:48 -0500 (EST)

On Mon, 22 Mar 1999, Jeffrey Doyle wrote:

> Eric,
>
> be effected.  Was this '94 machine left idle without being ridden by the
> pervious owner?  Was the gas left in the tank for a long time?  It

The bike was fairly idle for a year before I bought it. Maybe something
worked into the fuel line at the wrong time. But it still ran strong on
the highway, even if it wanted to quit on me when I stopped. Would this be
consistent with restricted fuel flow?

> almost sounds like something is restricting your fuel flow either
> through the petcock or the carb.  For the fact that your engine was
> running hotter that's a sure sign right there you're running lean.  In
> other words it's not a spark problem, not an air problem, it's a fuel
> problem!  There may have been impurities in the gas that took a while to
>
> Jeff
> A2




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50 - warranty
Date: 22 Mar 1999 10:03:52 -0800


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>On that subject I'd recommend all the home mechanics on the list keep good
>records on the work you perform on your bike if its under warranty, even
>going so far as to document the more elaborate procedures (vale adjust)
with
>pictures.  Its not a big deal if you do it at the time and if you have to
>make a warranty claim at least you can show you followed the manufacturer's
>specs.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik



I don't know about the States (if the warranty stuff is different) but the
lime green pamphlet entitled "Kawasaki Owner's Guide" specifically states
the following:

 1.  The owner must deliver, at his expense, the complete product to an
authorized Kawasaki dealer for all periodic maintenance services (as
recommended in the Owner's Manual for that model) during the warranty period
applicable to that model.  These maintenance services are to be recorded on
the Warranty Guide and the Owner's Manual.

4.  ALL MECHANICAL WORK must be performed by an Authorized Kawasaki Dealer.

There were other points of course, but these struck me because in my earlier
quest for knowledge (in comparing the F650 with the KLR650) one lister cited
that an advantage with the KLR was that you could perform your own scheduled
maintenance - then went on to say "try doing that with the BMW...".  Beings
as I could perform most mechanical services myself, this was going to be an
advantage for me.  So I thought any ways.  Obviously this is not the case
with the A13.

Oh well,

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry.
Date: 22 Mar 1999 13:12:08 +0000

Eric Winslow wrote:
>
> On Mon, 22 Mar 1999, Jeffrey Doyle wrote:
>
> > Eric,
> >
> > be effected.  Was this '94 machine left idle without being ridden by the
> > pervious owner?  Was the gas left in the tank for a long time?  It
>
> The bike was fairly idle for a year before I bought it. Maybe something
> worked into the fuel line at the wrong time. But it still ran strong on
> the highway, even if it wanted to quit on me when I stopped. Would this be
> consistent with restricted fuel flow?
>

Yes,

Happened to mine....I let the bike sit idle too long a few years ago
when the battery went dead one winter.  After installing a new battery,
I started it and it ran terrible at low speed and I had to blip the
throttle to keep the thing from stalling out or backfiring (even with
the idle screw adjusted up).  On I-95 it ran OK but at low speed it was
like trying to fly a WWI Sopwith Camel that sputtered and threatened to
stall.  I took it to a dealer who cleaned out the carb and it worked
fine after that.  I never let it sit for more than a couple of weeks
during the winter without starting it up or topping off the tank with
fresh gas.

The only way I managed to keep it running enough to limp it into the
dealer's shop was to put STP gas treatment in the tank (not the whole
bottle...just small reasonable amounts to work on any water that may
have been in the system or soften up varnish) and hope for improvement.
There was some improvement but not enough to cure the problem.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: waynef <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (NKLR)Nolan N100 helmet (flip-up) for sale
Date: 22 Mar 1999 12:54:31 -0600

I have a like new (complete with box, manual, etc) Nolan N100 (white,
medium) for sale.  I bought the helmet recently and have worn  it a few
times.  $150

If interested E-mail me direct.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry.
Date: 22 Mar 1999 14:00:04 EST

Sounds like a clogged pilot jet Winslow. With a cloged pilot, it will start
great with the enricher circuit,  aka da choke, when warm and choke off you
are relying on the pilot jet to idle on. When it dies, you try to choke it to
get it running which floods it till it gets cool again. Since the pilot jet
allows fuel to bleed at all throttle settings, you are actually running leaner
at all throttle settings. Just a thought. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryce Hysjulien" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) First Gear Lurch
Date: 22 Mar 1999 13:28:43 -0600

Spring has finally made it to the Frozen North and a young mans fancy has
turned to bike prepping and the first ride of the season.  Unfortunately,
I've found a problem.  My KLR has developed a nasty lurch when shifting into
first gear.  The lurch is enough to sqwuak the rear tire slightly.  Is this
normal for the KLR?  Also, my KLR has approximately 6,000 miles on it.

TIA
Bryce 98 KLR




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Winslow <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry.
Date: 22 Mar 1999 14:26:29 -0500 (EST)

Thanks for the input. That does sound like a decent diagnosis, since the
lean condition would cause the engine to run hotter, no? Seems like the
cooling system should have been able to handle it, though. I wonder if
I'll be able to ride that thing back or home or if I'll have to haul it in
a pick-up?

On Mon, 22 Mar 1999 [e-mail] wrote:

> Sounds like a clogged pilot jet Winslow. With a cloged pilot, it will start
> great with the enricher circuit,  aka da choke, when warm and choke off you
> are relying on the pilot jet to idle on. When it dies, you try to choke it to
> get it running which floods it till it gets cool again. Since the pilot jet
> allows fuel to bleed at all throttle settings, you are actually running leaner
> at all throttle settings. Just a thought. frank
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Maintenance & Warranty
Date: 22 Mar 1999 14:24:54 EST

On 3/22/99, [e-mail] writes: snip

>"Kawasaki Owner's Guide" specifically states the following:
>1. The owner must deliver, at his expense, the complete product to an
>authorized Kawasaki dealer for all periodic maintenance services


 Arne this is reprinted from the warranty that came with my A10:
_____________
 "3. Owner's Obligations. (a) Owner must deliver the
 motocycle to an authorized Kawasaki motorcycle dealer
 *OR* equally qualified service facility for inspection,
 maintenance services and adjustments.
---------------
     And this from the A10 owner's manual, page 3:
_____________
 "You should keep a maintenance record for your motorcycle. To
 assist you in keeping this record, we have provided space on p.
 110 through 113 of this manual where an authorized Kawasaki
 Dealer, *OR* someone equally competent, can record the
 maintenance. You should also retain copies of maintenance
 work orders, bills, etc., as verification of this maintenance."
----------------

 It only says that you SHOULD, not that you MUST keep records.
 Records might help prove your case in court, but proving that
 we are 'equally competent' compared to that burned out, acid
 casualty that the dealer generously calls a mechanic, now
 that may be hard to do...

 Redondo Ron (wearing his oppositional disorder for all the world to see;)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb
Date: 22 Mar 1999 14:36:45 -0500

The original CV carb was used with a supertrapp pipe. Never tried the CV
with the big gun because of the jetting headaches the CV has always given
me. Sudco might offer an application for the KLR.. Or you may be able to
adapt the one for the KLX for it. I got mine through stroker.

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 1:14 PM


Sounds good to me.  I have a two-week old KLR650.  I ordered the complete
Big Gun exhaust 2 weeks ago.  Coincidence you say?  Absolutely! (sorry Fred,
they promised me they'd send me a Big-Gun model poster girl with it - I
couldn't pass it up)

What is this FCR41 carb you're talking about?  Did you try the exhaust with
the original carb first and notice an improvement?

Was your original carb in need of replacement anyways?

Arne

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>Just look my KLX out for a ride late last week with the new pipe and carb.
I
>was grinning like a madman the whole way. What a difference. I highly
>recommend both of these mods to KLR and KLX owners. Rolling the throttle
>produces some unbelievable low end torque.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Allan Phipps)
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck
Date: 22 Mar 1999 13:01:58 -0800

Hi Fred,

Thanks for the info.  I'm having a little trouble visualizing the set up
you described.  Can you help me clarify a few things?

>Japanese trucks don't have the strongest metal for their beds.  You will
>need to put a piece of plywood or some other brace in the front of your
>front tire and center the bike in the back of the bed.  You will need two
>tie down points in the front of the bed preferably in line with the forks.

So, the plywood goes on edge against the front of the box to stop the front
tire from denting the front of the box?

The tie down points need to be in front of the bike, fairly close together
(to be in line with the forks)?    i.e.
                   ------------------------
                   /    t.d.     t.d.      /
                   /                       /
                   /        tire           /

Or, do you mean the tie downs should be on the front of each side of the box?
i.e.

                       -------------------
                       /                 /
                       t.d.   tire       t.d
                       /                 /

>Use good quality tie downs.  I would recommend Ancras, not something cheap
>like you would get at Walmart. ;<)

Do you think I could get such tie downs at a place that sells dirt bikes
and skidoos?  What makes a good tie down?

>You can use a piece of 2X4 under the
>fender and on top of the tire.  This will allow you to compress the tire and
>not the springs when you cinch down your bike.  Or you can use a world
>famous "Fred's fork saver"

You mean cut a piece of 2x4 to the required length to stand on end between
the tire and front fender?  Will it stay?  Do you happen to know the length
that would work (stock suspension as far as I know)?  Do I need to do
something similar with the rear of the bike?


>You are throwing away memories that you will have for the rest of your life.
>Riding your new bike for the first time on a 15 hour trip, what could be
>better than that?

Now you really have me thinking.  A coworker offered to take a couple days
off and double me down to Victoria on his 76 'Wing and then I could ride
the bike back up here with him following me.  The MSF course I did in
Edmonton didn't give me any street experience.  I feel really capbable of
riding in any parking lot in North America!!  Riding in traffic is another
story.

Thanks again Fred.

Al






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb
Date: 22 Mar 1999 13:12:02 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>The original CV carb was used with a supertrapp pipe. Never tried the CV
>with the big gun because of the jetting headaches the CV has always given
>me. Sudco might offer an application for the KLR.. Or you may be able to
>adapt the one for the KLX for it. I got mine through stroker.

I can get you a Mikuni flat slide carb kit for the KLR.  I put one on my
XR600 and it makes a big difference in the mid to top end.  Since the XR
didn't have a CV carb to begin with, the improvement on a KLR would be HUGH!

>-----Original Message-----
>From: Arne Larsen [mailto:[e-mail]]
>Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 1:14 PM
>To: Mike Ratta
>Subject: Re: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb
>
>
>Sounds good to me.  I have a two-week old KLR650.  I ordered the complete
>Big Gun exhaust 2 weeks ago.  Coincidence you say?  Absolutely! (sorry
Fred,
>they promised me they'd send me a Big-Gun model poster girl with it - I
>couldn't pass it up)

Ya, But does she come with an UMBRELLA?

>What is this FCR41 carb you're talking about?  Did you try the exhaust with
>the original carb first and notice an improvement?

I can also get one of these from Sudco but they are not in a kit (not jetted
for the KLR or have the throttle that fits the carb).


Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50 - warranty
Date: 22 Mar 1999 12:11:28 -0800

OK SO here is my spin on this.  As a service representative for Honda
automobiles I have to field this question frequently.  American Honda's
position on Slick 50 and other miracle additives is that if you pour that
stuff in your engine while its still under warranty and you have an engine
failure that is remotely related to lubrication failure, the burden of proof
that
the engine was at fault shifts to you and the manufacturer of said "snake
oil"!  I would not do it!  As far as Toyota truck engines lasting a long
time with Slick 50.......Ive seen them go 400k with only infrequent oil
changes. I would not credit Slick 50 with that, give credit where credit is
due, Toyota makes a damn near bulletproof truck engine.
Often times a chemist has a great breakthrough idea but fails to consider
the side effects.  Remember that Black Gold oil with graphite in it.  Sure
in the lab that stuff looked great.  In reality when placed in an engine it
coated the crank and cam seals with so much graphite build up that every car
I ever saw with it the crankcase leaked like a sieve.  I changed lots of
rear main seals that year.  You don't see it on the shelf much anymore.
As far as those guys at the state fair that hawk Slick 50 that show you a
motor running with no oil having been treated with additives.  I knew one of
those guys.  Those motors have barely enough compression in them to
run.......no load.  NO  compression and no load  means almost no heat or
friction, not much lubricant needed.
IF IT WORKS, DON'T FIX IT!
Morgan
You may remove soap box now




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck
Date: 22 Mar 1999 13:23:43 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>Hi Fred,
>
>Thanks for the info.  I'm having a little trouble visualizing the set up
>you described.  Can you help me clarify a few things?
>
>>Japanese trucks don't have the strongest metal for their beds.  You will
>>need to put a piece of plywood or some other brace in the front of your
>>front tire and center the bike in the back of the bed.  You will need two
>>tie down points in the front of the bed preferably in line with the forks.
>
>So, the plywood goes on edge against the front of the box to stop the front
>tire from denting the front of the box?

Yup!

>The tie down points need to be in front of the bike, fairly close together
>(to be in line with the forks)?

If you have some attachment points in the front corners of the floor of the
bed, that will work.

>>Use good quality tie downs.  I would recommend Ancras, not something cheap
>>like you would get at Walmart. ;<)
>
>Do you think I could get such tie downs at a place that sells dirt bikes
>and skidoos?  What makes a good tie down?

Any dirt bike shop that is worth going to will have tiedowns.  Ancras are
the best because they have been the business the longest and are very
rugged.  I have the original set I bought in 1969 and still use them.  You
will loose them or somebody will "borrow" them before they wear out.

>>You can use a piece of 2X4 under the
>>fender and on top of the tire.  This will allow you to compress the tire
and
>>not the springs when you cinch down your bike.  Or you can use a world
>>famous "Fred's fork saver"
>
>You mean cut a piece of 2x4 to the required length to stand on end between
>the tire and front fender?

Yup

>Will it stay?

It will if you are careful when you pull down the tiedowns.  This is where
my invention shines.  I have some bungee cords attached so the fork saver
stays where you put it.  The problem is (as can be attested to by some who
have short memories) you have to remove it before you try to move the bike.

>Do you happen to know the length
>that would work (stock suspension as far as I know)?

About 9 inches

Do I need to do
>something similar with the rear of the bike?

Nope.

>
>>You are throwing away memories that you will have for the rest of your
life.
>>Riding your new bike for the first time on a 15 hour trip, what could be
>>better than that?
>
>Now you really have me thinking.  A coworker offered to take a couple days
>off and double me down to Victoria on his 76 'Wing and then I could ride
>the bike back up here with him following me.  The MSF course I did in
>Edmonton didn't give me any street experience.  I feel really capbable of
>riding in any parking lot in North America!!  Riding in traffic is another
>story.

Just give everyone else on the road alot of room and pretend that they are
after you.  They are!  The KLR can go just about anywhere, so take all the
back roads.  The road less traveled is the best anyway.  Now where did I
hear that before??

Fred





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck
Date: 22 Mar 1999 12:21:54 -0800

I like the diagonal method for little japanese pickups.  You put the front
wheel into the right corner, put one tiedown from the handlebar forward to
the 'left' front corner.  The other tiedown to from the handlebar to the
right rear corner.  Put the bike in gear and close the tailgate.   I've
hauled many many miles thru lots of beatup forest roads like this and it is
more secure than the straight ahead method as it does not 'unweight' the
rear wheel.  But it wastes bed space.  You can use another tiedown from the
rear rack down to the right rear corner.

If you put it in the center you'll have to brace the front bulkhead (on a
Mazda for sure!) or it will bend to touch the cab, something your friend
may not be so happy about.  If you have no brace you'll want the diagonal
method for sure.   If any rocks are getting up to the windscreen on your
KLR I imagine that there will be nothing left of the Mazda's windscreen.

Tom
========================================
>A friend is going to haul my 96 KLR from Victoria, BC to Fort St. John (a
>good two days drive) in the back of his Mazda pickup.  What do I need to
>know about hauling a KLR in the back of a truck.  I want to make sure it is
>secured properly.  What kind of straps should I use, how do I tie down the
>bike so it won't fall over/out, is there a good way to lock the bike to the
>truck, should I cover the front of the bike/windscreen with anything to
>protect it from flying rocks (still lots of gravel on the roads from the
>winter), is it possible to put the bike on one side of the truck box (my
>friend has some other stuff to haul too), .... ??  If it matters, the truck
>is a 96 Mazda extended cab 4X4, with either a regular box or short box.
>
>You may be wondering why I'm having the bike hauled here instead of riding
>it.  I would really like to ride it but I just got my licence last summer
>(did a MSF course) and I haven't spent any time riding in traffic.  I
>thought a 15 hour trip would not be a good plan for my first time riding
>the bike.  I bought it a few months ago, but I actually haven't seen the
>bike yet.  Can't wait to get it!!
>
>Thanks in advance for your advice!!
>
>Al
>Fort St. John, BC
>Canada
>96 KLR


+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (F. J. Smith)
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Helmets
Date: 22 Mar 1999 12:28:43 -0800 (PST)

Just wanted to know if anyone else on the list has purchased a Bieffe 3
Sport helmet ( with the quick release retention system ) and had the
same problem I had.

Got the helmet new 3 weeks ago.  The second time I wore it, I couldn't
get the buckle and tongue to disengage.  After 15 minutes of trying
various and sundry ways to manipulate the quick release system, I had to
cut the chin strap to get the helmet off.

Sent the helmet to the distributor here in California with a detailed
letter.  They're willing to give me 50% off on another 3 Sport, but say
that the quick release system is not defective.  They also say that they
have had no complaints or similar problems with the 3 Sport.

Comments will be appreciated.

Jim
'98 KLR




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR Helmets
Date: 22 Mar 1999 13:37:20 -0700

>>Bieffe 3 Sport helmet ( with the quick release retention system ) and had
the
same problem I had.

Got the helmet new 3 weeks ago.  The second time I wore it, I couldn't
get the buckle and tongue to disengage.  After 15 minutes of trying
various and sundry ways to manipulate the quick release system, I had to
cut the chin strap to get the helmet off.<<

I had this same problem with a Bieffe Modular 4 helmet a several years ago.
I buckle seemed very prone to jamming due to dust and dirt and I had to
clean and lube it every few days.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck
Date: 22 Mar 1999 13:47:54 -0700


>after you.  They are!  The KLR can go just about anywhere, so take all the
>back roads.  The road less traveled is the best anyway.  Now where did I
>hear that before??
>
>Fred


Oh no...another literati among us...I liked it better when you were just "Fred
'Eight-Track' Hink"...(g)

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Gear Lurch
Date: 22 Mar 1999 13:49:24 -0700



>Spring has finally made it to the Frozen North and a young mans fancy has
>turned to bike prepping and the first ride of the season.  Unfortunately,
>I've found a problem.  My KLR has developed a nasty lurch when shifting into
>first gear.  The lurch is enough to sqwuak the rear tire slightly.  Is this
>normal for the KLR?  Also, my KLR has approximately 6,000 miles on it.
>
>TIA
>Bryce 98 KLR


Yah...we were just chatting about this Bryce..pretty common...short of taking it apart
and cleaning the clutch up the best you can do is blip the throttle and shift it into
second first. I have to be careful and not start mine in gear (neutral safety
disconnected) because even with the clutch in she jumps right up....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry.
Date: 22 Mar 1999 13:52:40 -0700



>Thanks for the input. That does sound like a decent diagnosis, since the
>lean condition would cause the engine to run hotter, no? Seems like the
>cooling system should have been able to handle it, though. I wonder if
>I'll be able to ride that thing back or home or if I'll have to haul it in
>a pick-up?


No, just read Redondo's carb article, loosen the carb clamps, throttle cables and
choke cable (maybe not necessary) and rotate the carb clockwise...drop the float
bowl...unscrew the pilot jet...have a can of carb spray handy and...wearing safety
glasses and spraying away from any painted surfaces clean it so that you can see a
perfect little "o" when you look skyward...screw it back in...and drive it home and
then to do a complete teardown....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Chalz Milliken <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (KLR650) Not So Slick 50
Date: 22 Mar 1999 15:46:03 -0500

Alright, alright I hear ya. All of you meaning (Morgan, Redondo, Vik,
Arne, Cameron, Phil ect.)
As I said before "I will compromise."
This time I will compromise with myself and keep Mr. Slick out of my
engine. You guys are scaring me. The Moose will probably run forever,
just like my Toyota anyway.

Chalz



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck
Date: 22 Mar 1999 15:57:35 +0000

Tom,

Diagonal method questions;

1)  Is the bike on the sidestand and if so is it better to hook up the
left handle bar strap to the left front corner of the truck box first?

2)  Does hooking up the strap to the right handle bar and back to the
right rear of the truck box cause the bike to sufficiently lock into the
corner without it slipping rearward or do you also use wheel chucks?

3)  Were you able to put the KLR in shorter box as in a Ranger SuperCab
using this method?  I used to use the straight on method in an F150 and
always thought it would be a hassel getting it into the Ranger (have
since traded Ranger for a Civic Hatchback to accomodate a baby seat
better but thought about going back to a truck again next time).

4)  In your opinion what works best for bike hauling...box liners or
mats or neither? (using diagonal method and not putting any anchor into
the truck bed)

5)  Any recommendations on ramps (I used to find a spot of ground I
could back the tailgate up to and just bring it across)?  Obviously I've
ridden my bike alot more than hauled it.  I may need to transport it if
I get the time to go on trips like MOAB when circumstances permit.

Info appreciated.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck
Date: 22 Mar 1999 14:12:50 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>
>>after you.  They are!  The KLR can go just about anywhere, so take all the
>>back roads.  The road less traveled is the best anyway.  Now where did I
>>hear that before??
>>
>>Fred
>
>
>Oh no...another literati among us...I liked it better when you were just
"Fred
>'Eight-Track' Hink"...(g)
>
>Kurt
>
>

I am a man of many disguises.  I am now working for Gino as Fred (Hitman)
Hink

Got any knee caps you need broken??




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) (KLR650) Not So Slick 50
Date: 22 Mar 1999 14:09:49 -0700

>>This time I will compromise with myself and keep Mr. Slick out of my
engine. You guys are scaring me. The Moose will probably run forever,
just like my Toyota anyway.<<

I've never been an advocate of oil additives, but my father has always been
an STP user.  He has two trucks on his farm that he bought new and always
put STP in at every oil change (3000 miles).  His 67 Ford has 350,000+ miles
and still runs (no quite sure how good) with no engine rebuild.  His 79 Ford
has 200,000+ miles and is used daily.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry
Date: 22 Mar 1999 01:10:19 -0800

>Anybody have a clue as to what might be going on here? Once it was
>rolling the power seemed to be fine. I figure the first
>problem might be unrelated to the cooling problem. Maybe I got a bad batch
>of gas in NY before hitting the road? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>
>Now I need to go back and pick the bike up from Aberdeen, Maryland where I
>left it. I wonder if it just might act like nothing happened.

Eric, on problems that could be gas related or spark related and are
difficult to
trace I like to build a base to build on. So, for me, the first thing I
would do is
pull the carb and give it a good cleaning and inspection with special
attention to the
pilot jet, floats, and diaphragm....be careful not to lose the needle
collar...then
when you get it back on you can be pretty sure it is not fuel related...put
an inline
filter along with it and look for any rust in the gas tank...My guess is
that will
correct it...  Kurt

Eric- Before removing your carb as Kurt suggests, I would check for an
intake leak by spraying carb cleaner in the carb area while the bike's
running.  If the aerosol spray causes an increase in RPM, you have a leak.
Good luck, Darrel




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Clay <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50
Date: 22 Mar 1999 15:47:27 -0600 (CST)

>So I'm going to compromise. I will use less than the recommended amount
>of Slick 50 for less than the recommended amount of time.
>
>If my engine explodes or something, I will keep the list updated.
>I knew that extended warranty would be worth it!!
>
>Chalz
>A13

Don't do it. DuPont, the manufacturer of Teflon, has stated over and over
again that Teflon has no useful properties as an oil additive. If it did,
then DuPont would surely be producing such additives itself.

Tom Clay
Winnipeg MB






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: fred w smith <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR: Oil/cold starts
Date: 22 Mar 1999 14:10:58 -0800 (PST)


Lets try this angle on the oil thang:

Im using synthetix in bike and truck in this cold climate cause
starting/warmup is so much smoother.

Go ahead, pour on the truth, how wrong am I, how much damage am I
doing, burst my illusions.
I shall survive.
fred




==
fred w smith
mt shasta californy
      "the alpine parking lot"




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR: Oil/cold starts
Date: 22 Mar 1999 15:26:14 -0700

>Im using synthetix in bike and truck in this cold climate cause
>starting/warmup is so much smoother.
>
>Go ahead, pour on the truth, how wrong am I, how much damage am I
>doing, burst my illusions.
>I shall survive.
>fred


There is a whole bunch of us doing the same thang...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Down-under tool storage
Date: 22 Mar 1999 17:27:15 +0000

Mike,

Actually I think if you adapted your idea to a hand-grab rail mount
situation, reduced the size to 4 in. dia by 6 in. long you could have a
container on each side of the saddle, just in front of the directional
signals that would be useful for carrying even more stuff without the
heft of saddle bags (or in addition to).  In fact I've got some old tins
around that I may experiment with to see what kind of attachment would
work.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR: Oil/cold starts
Date: 22 Mar 1999 17:53:13 -0500

Me too. Maxum 4 synthetic blend 15w-50 in the 96 KLR, (70% off-road use),
and 99 Honda XR 80 (all off-road) Castrol Synthetic blend 10w-40 in
everything else, 94 Nissan PU, 98 Dodge Stratus, 86 Goldwing 1200, 99
Kawasaki Concours, 99 Kawasaki Vulcan 750. Everything starts, runs, shifts
great, and nothing uses any oil. Oil and filter every 4000 on cars, 2500 on
street bikes and about once-a-month on the dirtbikes, about 40 hours on the
XR, about 800/1000 miles on the KLR, but it's mostly off-road, hard use.
YES, I do spend alot on oil changes, but I spend almost nothing on any kind
of motor work. Even the Goldwing has the original clutch and that one goes
15,000 miles a year, at least once to Florida and back every year, 2-up and
a trailer, no less.
Adios, NY Pete





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #165
Date: 22 Mar 1999 18:15:02 EST

In a message dated 3/22/99 7:10:20 AM Pacific Standard Time, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

> My solution is to always ride the KLR with boots that are taller in the
>  toe and I still almost have to lift my whole foot (leg) to get positive
>  shifts. I know that this solution sucks but it's all I've got.
>

I am also tall and had a similar problem. This was mostly solved when I had a
Russell seat made last year. The seating position is 2" higher than stock
which raises my knees. This in turn caused my toes to point differently and my
shifting improved. The only shift I occasionally miss is upshift to 5th while
under hard acceleration.

Gary



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Dynojet kit in a 600 and jetlist
Date: 23 Mar 1999 09:45:07 +1000

Skip Faulkner wrote:

[...]
> Pippo, good to hear from you,have you considered adapting one of K&N`s
> universal fit filters, you might be able to work one of those in there.

Well, I've considered replacing the stock filter with a pod of some
sort.
It could get tricky mounting that to the stock tube from the airbox
to carby, but I haven't ruled out the idea completely.
Variations to the carby snorkel may affect the (presumably) tuned
length.

Running a pod may be interesting, as it would allow practically the
entire vertical RHS of the airbox to be hacked off (have to keep the
LHS to hold the battery, and the bit at the rear that doubles as the
mudguard), which would turn the airbox into a weathershield for the
pod.

[...]
> I don`t know about Ted, but I`m drilling some relief holes in mine in such a
> way as to keep my spark arrester intact and not destroy my fiberglass
> packing. When I get it on the bike and test it, I`ll update the muffler
> diagram to show where I drilled .

Whatever fibreglass I may have had originally would have been blown
away years and years ago.
There's not a trace of any in the muffler I've hacked up.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) GEAR LEVER POSITIONING
Date: 23 Mar 1999 09:56:47 +1000

Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY) wrote:

[altered shift lever position]
> I slipped it into first (mine clunks into 1st when cold, so does my
> neighbours KR1) and found that it was easy to change up through the gears
> but when I got to the first intersection, about 2kms down the road, it
> wouldn't change down.  I pulled over thinking how could I have f******d the

The 600 is the same with the stock lever, I've tried it.
I'd hope that the accessory levers that other listers have mentioned
in the past allow a bit more flexibility in location.
Else, a custom shift lever shaped like an ignition spanner would
be rquired.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry. Long.
Date: 23 Mar 1999 10:33:41 +1000

Eric Winslow wrote:

[bike won't idle between highway cruising]
> Now I need to go back and pick the bike up from Aberdeen, Maryland where I
> left it. I wonder if it just might act like nothing happened.

It just might act fine.
What were the ambient temps like?
At the risk of making some listers groan, could these be the effects
of carby icing?
Lets not forget that for 1994 (the last year of the 600) the factory
fitted water heating to the carby (page 5-2, 600 electric start
supplement).
I've had my 600 behave the same way at night out on the open road
with no lasting ill affects.
It's possible that the KLR is more prone to icing than aircooled
big singles due to the radiator shedding heat away from the
carby.
An aircooled bike like a NX650 or DR650 may have more heat lurking
about directly behind the head where the carby sits.

Mister_T
Carb ice conspiracy theories a speciality.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Ken Belfatto" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Mystery Oil Additive
Date: 22 Mar 1999 17:59:06 -0600

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    charset="iso-8859-1"
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I know it's wacky, but I always put a shot glass full of Marvel Mystery =
Oil in the crank at every oil change(1000mi).
Doesn't make a damn bit of difference, but It provides a big =
physiological boost.
Anyone else?

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I know it's wacky, but I always put a shot glass =
full of=20
Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank at every oil =
change(1000mi).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Doesn't make a damn bit of difference, but It =
provides a big=20
physiological boost.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Anyone else?</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE748D.ADA5FD60--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Tayloe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Mystery Oil Additive
Date: 22 Mar 1999 19:06:37 -0500

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I have, upon occasion, put MMO in with the oil in an old Triumph.
I always add 2oz MMO per 5 gal gas at each fillup.  I also add
Stabil (2 oz per 5 gal gas).  This is done to each of my bikes
with no ill effects.  Perhaps also with no benefit, but as you
said, it gives me a psychological boost.

Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Ken Belfatto <[e-mail]>
    To: KLR List <[e-mail]>
    Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 6:56 PM
    Subject: (klr650) NKLR Mystery Oil Additive
   =20
   =20
    I know it's wacky, but I always put a shot glass full of Marvel =
Mystery Oil in the crank at every oil change(1000mi).
    Doesn't make a damn bit of difference, but It provides a big =
physiological boost.
    Anyone else?

------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BE7497.1C2F53E0
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>I have, upon occasion, =
put MMO in=20
with the oil in an old Triumph.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial size=3D2>I=20
always add 2oz MMO per 5 gal gas at each fillup.  I also =
add</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Stabil (2 oz per 5 gal gas).  This =
is done to=20
each of my bikes</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>with no ill effects.  Perhaps also =
with no=20
benefit, but as you</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>said, it gives me a psychological=20
boost.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Ride Safely,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Rob Tayloe=20
<[e-mail]></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Columbus, Ohio</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Ken Belfatto <<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A>><BR><B>To: =
</B>KLR=20
    List <<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Monday, March 22, 1999 6:56 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>(klr650) NKLR =
Mystery=20
    Oil Additive<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I know it's wacky, but I always put a shot glass =
full of=20
    Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank at every oil =
change(1000mi).</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Doesn't make a damn bit of difference, but It =
provides a=20
    big physiological boost.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Anyone =
else?</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage
Date: 22 Mar 1999 17:37:48 -0700

>Actually I think if you adapted your idea to a hand-grab rail mount
>situation, reduced the size to 4 in. dia by 6 in. long you could have a
>container on each side of the saddle, just in front of the directional
>signals that would be useful for carrying even more stuff without the
>heft of saddle bags (or in addition to).  In fact I've got some old tins
>around that I may experiment with to see what kind of attachment would
>work.
>
>Jeff
>A2

But the idea is to get the weight down low and forward....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Plain text
Date: 22 Mar 1999 17:40:30 -0700

Ken/ Rob and others...make sure to send messages in plain text only..you also have to
make sure you do not send messages in the same format when replying...always plain
text...

Thanks,

Kurt





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Execs" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) remove my name from list
Date: 22 Mar 1999 18:22:57 -0700

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maiden voyage gone awry.
Date: 22 Mar 1999 20:33:38 EST

In a message dated 3/22/99 1:26:32 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<  I wonder if
 I'll be able to ride that thing back or home or if I'll have to haul it in
 a pick-up? >>
Eric, I'd ride it home, just becareful about idleing at toll booths, maybe you
can set up the idle a little higher. When you get home, if you want, I"de be
glad to give you the directions on fixing your problem, frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb
Date: 22 Mar 1999 20:36:15 EST

In a message dated 3/22/99 1:39:48 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Was your original carb in need of replacement anyways? >>
If you guys are pitching your stock carbs, please let me pay for freight to
salvage them. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Mystery Oil Additive
Date: 22 Mar 1999 20:47:15 EST

In a message dated 3/22/99 5:58:29 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< I know it's wacky, but I always put a shot glass full of Marvel Mystery Oil
in the crank at every oil change(1000mi).
 Doesn't make a damn bit of difference, but It provides a big physiological
boost.
 Anyone else?
  >>
Ken, I  think that stuff can clean the top end and lube up the ring grooves so
I would try it in an engine that has been sitting for a while and in engines
that don't use valve guide seals like some BMWs. .02 worth, frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR: Oil/cold starts
Date: 22 Mar 1999 20:41:44 EST

In a message dated 3/22/99 4:15:22 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Go ahead, pour on the truth, how wrong am I, how much damage am I
 doing, burst my illusions.
 I shall survive.
 fred >>
Fred, I don't know anyone that has damaged an engine from lubrication
defeciency if they had oil in it, any kind of oil or any kind of additive. no
oil is bad though. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dreas Nielsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V2 #165
Date: 22 Mar 1999 18:55:41 -0800

> Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:45:33 -0600 (CST)
> From: Dale Borgeson <[e-mail]>
> Subject: Re: (klr650) GEAR LEVER POSITIONING
>
> > Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 00:24:11 -0000
> > From: "Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" <[e-mail]>
> > Subject: (klr650) GEAR LEVER POSITIONING
> >
> > my foot off the peg (especially if I am standing!).  However, the
current
> > positioning of the gear lever necessitates that I have to lift my foot
off
> > the peg, change down gear(s) and reposition my foot back on the peg.
<snip>

> I have this same problem. I have very long legs and on all bikes I've
> owned I lower the gear shift lever so that I can get positive shifts.
<snip>
> My solution is to always ride the KLR with boots that are taller in the
> toe and I still almost have to lift my whole foot (leg) to get positive
> shifts. I know that this solution sucks but it's all I've got.

I'm 6'4", and have to lift my whole leg to upshift while riding two-up.  The
easy solution: I almost never ride two-up (except to give my daughters a
ride down to the mailbox, which is almost a mile away).  When sitting at the
back of the seat--my normal position--I never have a problem shifting.  I do
wish the KLR was taller, though...

Dreas Nielsen
Issaquah, WA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maintenance & Warranty
Date: 22 Mar 1999 18:42:48 -0800

I guess they've made some changes then as my owners manual doesn't contain
any of that.  The supplement very clearly states "must", not "should".
There is similar wording in the warranty supplement but they have removed
the "OR someone equally competent..." section.

Arne - "only in Canada eh?  Pity..."

-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>On 3/22/99, [e-mail] writes: snip
>
>>"Kawasaki Owner's Guide" specifically states the following:
>>1. The owner must deliver, at his expense, the complete product to an
>>authorized Kawasaki dealer for all periodic maintenance services
>
>
> Arne this is reprinted from the warranty that came with my A10:
>_____________
> "3. Owner's Obligations. (a) Owner must deliver the
> motocycle to an authorized Kawasaki motorcycle dealer
> *OR* equally qualified service facility for inspection,
> maintenance services and adjustments.
>---------------
>     And this from the A10 owner's manual, page 3:
>_____________
> "You should keep a maintenance record for your motorcycle. To
> assist you in keeping this record, we have provided space on p.
> 110 through 113 of this manual where an authorized Kawasaki
> Dealer, *OR* someone equally competent, can record the
> maintenance. You should also retain copies of maintenance
> work orders, bills, etc., as verification of this maintenance."
>----------------
>
> It only says that you SHOULD, not that you MUST keep records.
> Records might help prove your case in court, but proving that
> we are 'equally competent' compared to that burned out, acid
> casualty that the dealer generously calls a mechanic, now
> that may be hard to do...
>
> Redondo Ron (wearing his oppositional disorder for all the world to see;)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck
Date: 22 Mar 1999 18:49:03 -0800

>Diagonal method questions;
>
>1)  Is the bike on the sidestand and if so is it better to hook up the
>left handle bar strap to the left front corner of the truck box first?

Sidestand is UP.  It would probably dig a hole in your truckbed if down.

>2)  Does hooking up the strap to the right handle bar and back to the
>right rear of the truck box cause the bike to sufficiently lock into the
>corner without it slipping rearward or do you also use wheel chucks?

No chocks.  In my Nissan it goes into the front corner, then I put up the
tailgate and slide the rear tire towards the center until it binds against
the tailgate.  Put it in gear so you can lift on the tire to slide it (not
on the bike or it will never move).

>3)  Were you able to put the KLR in shorter box as in a Ranger SuperCab
>using this method?  I used to use the straight on method in an F150 and
>always thought it would be a hassel getting it into the Ranger (have
>since traded Ranger for a Civic Hatchback to accomodate a baby seat
>better but thought about going back to a truck again next time).

I've been dhauling only XR400 and XR600 which are 56.5 and 57" wheelbase.
Don't know what the wheelbase of a KLR is but I'd be suprised if it was
more than 2 or 3 inches longer.  Anyone???  An "off-road" motorcycle is
typically seven feet long.

>4)  In your opinion what works best for bike hauling...box liners or
>mats or neither? (using diagonal method and not putting any anchor into
>the truck bed)

I've never had a truck nice enough to doll up.  I haven't added any
anchors, just the hooks that came on the truck (4 corners).

>5)  Any recommendations on ramps (I used to find a spot of ground I
>could back the tailgate up to and just bring it across)?  Obviously I've
>ridden my bike alot more than hauled it.  I may need to transport it if
>I get the time to go on trips like MOAB when circumstances permit.

I use a 2X8 with the "V-cut on the end method".  Admittedly not very
hi-tech.  I prefer to ride to the trailhead too.  Enjoy your trip.
Hopefully I can find some time to get to Moab this year!!

Tom

+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Alternative storage
Date: 22 Mar 1999 21:58:27 +0000

> >around that I may experiment with to see what kind of attachment would
> >work.
> >
> >Jeff
> >A2
>
> But the idea is to get the weight down low and forward....
>
> Kurt

Oh yeah....those subject titles, I know what you mean!

The heavier (carefully packed) maintenance items would stow better lower
on the frame as originally suggested (great idea) and to provide
additional storage space with easy access for lighter items that would
otherwise have to be stored in a fabric pack (but not enough to fill it)
or potentially messy items that would wreck fabric packs it would be
nice to have container(s) mounted elsewhere on the machine.  For example
(any of the following but not all) a tire tube, a container of lube,
light bulbs, patch kit, tape, maps, bungee cords, compass, drinks that
may condensate, mini-binoculars, certain food items, sunglasses, medical
items, sunscreen, cell phone, flashlight, carry out garbage, things that
take up space but don't warrant saddle or tank bags and are geared more
for day rides.  You could leave them on the machine all the time (less
the garbage or food).  When you camp out or tour on vacation just add
all the other baggage and go.  Riders who carry passengers often may
want to stick with the traditional types of bags, but for solo riders it
I think it could work.  The vertical attachment seems OK but the bottom
attachment needs some thought because of the way the grab rails are
designed.  I tried a few quick ideas using a one quart paint can just to
see how it would fit in.  U-bolts may be part of the equation.....but I
would really like a quick release thing.

Mike made a good choice using PVC and I'm going to check HOME DEPOT to
see if there are any other configurations.  One thought that did cross
my mind though is if the front wheel gets fully compressed will there
still be enough clearance between the tire and the frame mounted tube.
I'm trying to visualize it installed because the way he described.

The big touring bikes have those nice fairing pockets with snap covers
that hold sundries nicely and I miss those on the KLR fairing.  I was
able to mount a clock and a compass to it though.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Rumors & Maintenance & Warranty
Date: 22 Mar 1999 22:04:05 EST

On 3/22/99, [e-mail] writes:

>I guess they've made some changes then as my owners manual doesn't
>contain any of that.  The supplement very clearly states "must", not
>"should". There is similar wording in the warranty supplement but
>they have removed the "OR someone equally competent..." section.
>Arne - "only in Canada eh?  Pity..."

 It is a pity Arne. Living near Kawasaki's headquarters, I'm
 occasionally privy to inside gossip. I heard a couple of rumors
 today that sought to explain why Kawasaki was moved to
 change the warranty wording.

 One said that the changes were made because too many
 enthusiast were destroying their engines by overfilling them
 with oil. Reading some of the posts here, this could be possible.

 The second rumor alleges that the warranty change only applied
 to Canada, because a number of owner/mechanics were using
 seal blubber instead of factory spec oil. I haven't spent enough
 time in The Great White North to form an opinion on this one.

 Redondo Ron (bringing you all the unverified news that fits)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Chicago area
Date: 22 Mar 1999 22:20:07 EST

Is it time for another Chicago area KLR breakfast?
How about all of us meeting at the Highland House on a Sunday AM.
Any other proposals?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR-"Tired" and curious...
Date: 22 Mar 1999 19:33:54 PST

Fellow listers-

Well my rear IRC finally gave up the ghost yesterday after about 6500
miles of satisfactory use.  Decided to take the opportunity to get
acquainted with the process of breaking beads and removing rubber
(having never done it before).  All went fairly well, actually better
than I anticipated, however I am left wondering how a person traveling
solo would break a bead on a rear tire.  I've heard about some people
using their sidestand but how would you do that while the tire's
removed?  I used a special bead breaking tool yesterday but I don't plan
on taking it when touring.  Could someone enlighten me on this?

So at this point I have a rim, a new tube, and a new tire (all
separate).  What is the sequence/process for re-installation?  Is it:

- Tube THEN tire?  Or...

- One "lip" of the tire, tube, then the other lip?  Or...

- Is it tire completely installed prior to the insertion of the tube?

My next set of questions concerns setting the bead.  What's the best way
to do that?  Take it to gas station and pump it with an air nozzle?
What PSI should I go to when doing this?

Regarding balancing...  If you can believe it, nobody in this one-horse
town of 800,000 people balances tires (and that goes for cars too).  I
currently have some of those lead spoke weights on my wheels.  Is there
anything that would preclude me from continuing to use them?  Any tips
for removal and/or re-installation?  They seem pretty soft and I don't
want to damage them.

And now the $10,000 question...  I know there's a "cardinal direction"
for the tires when mounting but is there any certain part that's
required to be over, say, the valve stem?  I've heard some folks mention
this in the past, just wondering...

Any advice you might have regarding this matter would be much
appreciated.  And the sooner the better, as I plan on tackling this
tomorrow (sorry so late transmitting, but Hotmail's been giving me fits-
you get what you pay for...).  Thanks in advance,

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"










Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted & Beth Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) exhausts
Date: 21 Mar 1999 22:04:00 -0500

Can anyone suggest a good after market exhaust? I have an 89 klr650 and
I was thinking of a performax. Having a great time reading all the
suggestions on the list!  Thanks in advance!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fw: Tankbag - Poisoning your food...NKLR
Date: 22 Mar 1999 20:52:17 -0700

The GS list has had a raging debate on tank bags as of late...I thought this was an interesting
post and one that I'd never thought of....

Kurt


-----Original Message-----


|OK
|
|I mostly 'use' the list archives to search for stuff and sometimes ask the
|odd (or very odd) question.
|So here goes a bit of putting back in what 'I' get out of it.
|
|In all this debate about tank bags I haven't seen - and may have missed many
|a response - reference to what it does to your food/drink should you decide
|to store such stuff in it.
|
|Still spending time reading old mags whilst waiting for the GS to make it's
|way to Perth I have dug out a 1996 mag I picked up in Germany
|(Tourenfahrer). They did a test on contamination levels to food stored in a
|tankbag for 6 hours on the bike. Riding, stopping for lots of sightseeing
|etc. Then they sent the stuff in sealed class containers to a lab to be
|analysed.
|
|Well to cut the 3 page story short - fuel - especially modern stuff - is
|(still) very poisonous. Some of the additives to get to even just 95 RON in
|unleaded is shown to be cancerous (what isn't these days you ask), attacks
|the nervous system yidda yidda yidda etc.
|
|Accepted levels where only set as a recommendation as not enough data was
|(is) at hand to specify how much is safe. Some of the stuff is set at 0 -
|that's zero - for the workplace - although it's not achievable in the
|general environment so again practicality dictated something otherwise.
|
|Anyway, it turned out that the levels of pollution in the food after a 6
|hour 'tour-ride' was more than a hundred fold that of the recommended
|maxima.
|
|It was concluded to NOT store any food in the tankbag (above the tank) due
|to contamination. The only thing that would be safe are drinks and food in
|sealed glass or cans etc. Plastic will not help as the gasses will pass
|through - so it was claimed.
|
|A number of bags where tested on some 'standard' bikes. The result where
|very close for all combinations other than this: Store the food as high away
|from the bottom of the bag - where the filler/breather cap is!
|
|So, use a tank bag or not - just best not to store the food in it!
|Of cause if you smoke you probably won't mind a salami sandwich with a bit
|of a petrol taste to it.
|
|Cheers,
|[:-)irK
|
|
|
|
|




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Wass <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Price of 1999 Klr 650's
Date: 22 Mar 1999 21:58:17 -0600

What seems to be the going price of 99 KLR 650's ? I am thinking of
updating my 95
I am on the "digest" mode so I don't know if you have to respond to me
directly or not any help would be great thanks, Scott Wass




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Patrice Robinet" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) exhausts
Date: 22 Mar 1999 23:10:49 -0500

unsubscribe





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Price of 1999 Klr 650's
Date: 22 Mar 1999 20:10:01 -0800



 Behalf Of Scott Wass
> Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 7:58 PM
>
> What seems to be the going price of 99 KLR 650's ? I am thinking of
> updating my 95
> I am on the "digest" mode so I don't know if you have to respond to me
> directly or not any help would be great thanks, Scott Wass
-----------
+/- 5K out the door. Depends on the local demand. Seems like its been about
the average I've heard tell of.

Good luck,
Rik A13




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) I dare you...
Date: 22 Mar 1999 21:13:13 -0700

    Skip, You seem to have not only a good stock of empirical knowledge
but also an intuitive feel for the science or more correctly alchemy of oil.
Tell me what you think (others of course are free to jump in) of the simple
beliefs that govern my relationship to the lubricant.
1.    Mobil 1  I use this synthetic because I read good things about it
and because it's everywhere; you can find it in most pueblitos de mierda in
Mexico and even in Canada. I pay the extra money as insurance for extreme
situations like.........Two years ago I rode down to Baja on business. Every
day it was over a 100, some days 115/120; in the shade of course. My riding
would alternate between 1st gear sandy roads & blasting down pavement at
90mph when possible. The temp needle was usually way up there though I never
overheated. When I  started the oil was at the top of the bubble; after 2/3
wks & 2.5k miles it was in the middle. At this point my task was over; I was
about 600 miles from the border. I wanted out. I raced up old highway 1
stopping for nothing. I didn't add oil till El Centro California. By then
the oil was toward the bottom of the bubble. I was past my usual 3,000 mile
change interval. I didn't change till over a 1,000 miles latter, home in
Colorado. I figured I could act in this cavalier fashion because I was using
a superior product with a higher threshold before breakdown. The oil "felt &
looked" fine when I drained it. Did I act recklessly? Would Castrol 20/50
have served me just as well?

            2. I remember the moment when I was partially converted to
Eldonism. (Kind of like St. Paul on the road to Damascus). It was at Fred's
in Moab. Fred was operating on my Supercrap/Supertripe. Kurt was in
attendance. I was screaming at Gino that no-way was my lifestyle going to be
compromised by waiting 12 hrs while my oil drained. I also believed in the
oil bubble. Gino was cool as an Italian-Czech cucumber. He didn't contest my
draining opinions; On the level issue he quietly stated that HE had been
running with oil well over the top of the sightglass for THOUSANDS &
THOUSANDS OF MILES!!  Not only did his oil not resemble shaving cream, there
was no foaming what-so-ever. More oil is better than less all things being
equal. The logic was irrefutable; I've been running over the glass ever
sense. What harm could I be doing?

Bogdan, obviously not a real petro-engineer
2.


    .  In other words, sorry Eldon, but don`t fix something
    that ain`t broke.
        Sorry guys, but I`m sticking to the site glass until I know to
do
    otherwise. I change my oil like Ron did in his last post, and then
add
    whatever is necessary to bring it up to the proper level on the
glass.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-"Tired" and curious...
Date: 22 Mar 1999 21:23:22 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>So at this point I have a rim, a new tube, and a new tire (all
>separate).  What is the sequence/process for re-installation?  Is it:
>
>- Tube THEN tire?  Or...

Some folks put the tube in the tire first and then mount it one lip at a
time.  I think you take more of a chance pinching the tube this way.

>- One "lip" of the tire, tube, then the other lip?  Or...

I do all the tires I change this way. (at least all the tube type ones)

>- Is it tire completely installed prior to the insertion of the tube?
>
>My next set of questions concerns setting the bead.  What's the best way
>to do that?  Take it to gas station and pump it with an air nozzle?
>What PSI should I go to when doing this?

It helps to have the tire bead wet or lubed and make sure it is all in the
rim where it is supposed to be.  I wouldn't use more than 40 psi to seat the
bead.  If it takes more than this you have a problem and need to see why.
If your bead is lubed it should slide on with a lot less pressure.  I air
the tire up to seat the bead and then let the air out to let the tube center
itself in the tire before I air it back up.

>Regarding balancing...  If you can believe it, nobody in this one-horse
>town of 800,000 people balances tires (and that goes for cars too).  I
>currently have some of those lead spoke weights on my wheels.  Is there
>anything that would preclude me from continuing to use them?  Any tips
>for removal and/or re-installation?  They seem pretty soft and I don't
>want to damage them.

You can reuse the spoke type wheel weights.  Use a screwdriver to pry them
open and off.  Use pliers to crimp them back on.  You can balance the wheel
on the bike if you don't have the spacers in the bearings to cause drag.
The wheel weights are just lead, you can't hurt them.

>And now the $10,000 question...  I know there's a "cardinal direction"
>for the tires when mounting but is there any certain part that's
>required to be over, say, the valve stem?  I've heard some folks mention
>this in the past, just wondering...

Some tires are directional and some are not.  If you see an arrow with a
direction indicator then it is directional and needs to be installed
correctly.  If not then it doesn't matter.  Some tires also have a little
yellow dot(1/2") that indicates the light side of the tire.  You need to put
this yellow dot next to the valve stem to help with the balance.


Fred





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) exhausts
Date: 22 Mar 1999 21:28:17 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Can anyone suggest a good after market exhaust? I have an 89 klr650 and
>I was thinking of a performax. Having a great time reading all the
>suggestions on the list!  Thanks in advance!
>
>
>

Most KLRist prefer the Supertrapp IDS 3 out of 4 times.

The FMF Perfomax and Megamax is not available for the KLR.

A couple of options are the Cobra 4Stroke and ISDE pipe.  Big Gun is making
a serious pipe (both in power, noise and cost)  not much else out there.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom McKenzie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) warranty work
Date: 22 Mar 1999 20:23:29 -0800

Arne Wrote:

I don't know about the States (if the warranty stuff is different) but the
lime green pamphlet entitled "Kawasaki Owner's Guide" specifically states
the following:

 1.  The owner must deliver, at his expense, the complete product to an
authorized Kawasaki dealer for all periodic maintenance services (as
recommended in the Owner's Manual for that model) during the warranty period
applicable to that model.  These maintenance services are to be recorded on
the Warranty Guide and the Owner's Manual.

4.  ALL MECHANICAL WORK must be performed by an Authorized Kawasaki Dealer.

There were other points of course, but these struck me because in my earlier
quest for knowledge (in comparing the F650 with the KLR650) one lister cited
that an advantage with the KLR was that you could perform your own scheduled
maintenance - then went on to say "try doing that with the BMW...".

I have had many BMW's, and I believe I am the lister referred to here. BMW just
gets out of Goose Step, when dealing anyone that feels they have knowledge of
BMW's. BMW has to follow the rules too. Please see below.

Legal point to make, and Kawasaki has to comply, at least in Canada.  No
manufacturer can force anyone to deal only with a specific outlet for service.
It contravenes Canada's federal anti combines legislation. Kawasaki can refuse
to warrant a failure that is due to improper maintenance but under no
circumstances can they state you are unable to choose who is to service your
motorcycle. The person performing service must be competent, have proper tools
and use parts that are at least equal to the warranty specifications for
replacement Kawasaki parts.  That is the law. If you can prove your bike is
maintained by someone that is qualified, then the law is not vague at all. I
love my bike (A13) but Kawasaki's high handed statements in their manuals just
don't cut it. I hold multi-vehicle technician licenses including motorcycles,
and I am a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers. I would challenge
Kawasaki any time and anywhere to say they generally employ in their
dealerships, truly qualified technicians.  If they did they would be paying $25.
per hour, not $12. So Kawasaki, why pre-bitch at us in  your manuals. Also don't
give us that crap about Kawasaki dealers are Independent business people and you
have no control over them. Cut off their supply of bikes unless they have
qualified techs, and watch the quality of the workshops drastically improve.
Do your own service, keep your oil and filter receipts, and don't let the book
bully you.
Tom  (A13)  McKenzie




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you...
Date: 22 Mar 1999 21:48:19 -0700


>
>Okay Skip here is the $60,000 question if I put 2.6L in my KLR every oil &
>filter change which I do am I going to have any negative result?
>
>I was changing the oil and filter in my GS today and was trying to put in
>exactly 2.9L (as per the manual) when I just said screw it and put in the
>whole 3.0L rather than measure it exactly.
>
>I can't see how this can be a major problem, but since we are back on oil I
>thought I'd ask!
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik
>

Vik, I don`t see a problem with a little extra. I`m just saying that I`m
going to continue to use the sight glass, whatever amount that requires.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Aluminum or Steel?
Date: 22 Mar 1999 21:53:49 -0700

...................> SNIP<..................
>sprocket and all he could say was WOW.  Well, I tried to save a couple
>of pounds by going for the more expensive aluminum sprocket, rather than
>the cheaper steel one.  Well, I won't make that one again.  I
>successfully babied her home while Eric followed.  On the down side,
>when I ordered the new sprocket, I also ordered 2 new helmets for my SO
>and I and a tank bag.

>Bill Wright (going back to being the man of steel)
>Hotlanta, GA.
>98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 23,000 miles
>
>

Bill, don`t feel so bad, the KTM`s have been having the same problem with
their aluminum sprockets. I personally know to KTM
 owner complaining of the aluminum sprockets.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil Capacity
Date: 22 Mar 1999 21:58:06 -0700

.................> snip<.................
>to the left. It is hard for me to believe that there is 10 ounces left in
the engine...
>
>Kurt
>
>

Me too Kurt, I was just repeating what Kaw. said. I could believe 5 or 6
ozs..

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Mounting tires
Date: 22 Mar 1999 21:15:55 PST

Juan,

I find the following tire mounting technique works well:

0.  Spray both sides of the tire rim with mounting lube.  Lots of
folks use soapy water, but mounting lube works much better, sets up
sticky to help prevent tire slippage and doesn't rust your rims.
This stuff makes a huge difference in mounting tubeless tires.

1. Install one side of the tire on the rim. Get it over at one
point. Wiggle it on as far as you can. Hold down one side (a heel
works well here if you don't have a buddy) and start working the
other side on with your tire iron.  Always keep the part that's on
the rim in the middle of the rim, not on the bead, so it's more
slack.  This is particularly important when you lever the second
side on.

2. Inflate the tube just enough to get it to hold a more or less
round shape and feed it into the tire and onto the rim.  Or, feed it
in flat and then fill it enough to get any kinks out.  (I feel more
confident that the first technique will get the tube in without
kinks but the latter is somewhat easier and also usually works
well.)

3. Spoon the other side of the tire on, being careful, of course, to
avoid pinching the tube. (Much easier to do with the tube somewhat
inflated.)

4. Try to get the tire centered on the rim on both sides before
inflating. Makes it much easier to get it to pop onto the rim
evenly.

5. Take out the valve stem, then inflate to 40 pounds or so to pop
the tire on the rim.  (It will fill much more quickly and pop on
better without the valve stem. This is much more critical on
tubeless tires, however.)

6. Let the air back out, install the valve stem and inflate to
normal operating pressure.

Works for me.

Marick
PS: You can get plastic thingees that slip over the rims to protect
them from the tire irons. Worth having if you can get them, I think.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR - Shoei helmet info
Date: 23 Mar 1999 00:07:31 -0500

Well I just received my brand spankin' new RF800 today.  Cool lid!  Lotso
padding, much more so than my ancient GRV.

Shoei has a new model called the Syncrotech, another flip-top lid like the
Nolan N100.  They are shown at www.motodepot.com and www.accwhse.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) slick 50 and the manufacturer
Date: 22 Mar 1999 22:15:25 -0700


>A machinist told me years ago that the PTE in Slick 50 will cause a
>"leaves in the drain effect" like in those tiny holes you see when you
>pull a valve cover on a car that allow the oil to drain back into the
>system.  The teflon does lubricate well, but in a micro-view it's like
>chunks of plastic.
>
>Jeff
>A2
>

Give the man a cigar!

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)  NKLR Maiden voyage gone awry. Long.
Date: 22 Mar 1999 22:30:45 -0700


>Hello.
>...............> snip<...........................
>TOLL booths for the bridge to Staten Island. The bike dies on me as I que
>up for the toll. It won't start up again

...............> snip<......................
>. At the next set of TOLLS I accidentally hit the kill switch while
>trying to keep the revs up and get money out of my pocket. It starts right


..............> snip<....................
>The next set of TOLLS at the end of the Jersey turnpike it wants to die. I


................> snip<.................
>Next TOLLS, same problems, get it going, moving down the road I now


>Puzzled in DC.
>
>Eric Winslow
>

MAN !  How can you afford to drive anywhere. I`ve never been through a toll
, but that sure sounds like a lot of money and wasted time, I feel for you.

Skip ( who`s glad for free roads and no speed limits, yet )
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Ric & Lori Lamoureux" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Weight?
Date: 22 Mar 1999 21:45:28 -0800

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How about an easy one--no oily research, no brake theory hand wringing, =
no nuthin'....

What is the true wet weight, empty tank, of the KLR 650?

Rick (137lbs, after dinner tonight)

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BE74AD.4D4CDE00
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1700"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>How about an easy one--no oily =
research, no=20
brake theory hand wringing, no nuthin'....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>What is the true wet weight, empty =
tank, of the=20
KLR 650?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Rick (137lbs, after dinner=20
tonight)</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BE74AD.4D4CDE00--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Not So Slick 50
Date: 22 Mar 1999 22:45:34 -0700


).  His 67 Ford has 350,000+ miles
>and still runs (no quite sure how good) with no engine rebuild.  >


>Gino
>

The reason for the exceptional mileage on the '67 is that it was the best
truck Ford ever made ( if it had the 300 six ). I`ve had two '67 Fords, an
F-350 Crew Cab ( bought from the Forest Service)
 that had 269,000 miles on the original engine. The other was
an F-350 flat bed cattle truck I sold 4 years ago with 290,000+ miles on the
propane-fueled 390. I like your dad`s taste in trucks.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR: Oil/cold starts
Date: 22 Mar 1999 22:53:37 -0700

>Lets try this angle on the oil thang:
>
>Im using synthetix in bike and truck in this cold climate cause
>starting/warmup is so much smoother.
>
>Go ahead, pour on the truth, how wrong am I, how much damage am I
>doing, burst my illusions.
>I shall survive.
>fred
>

Fred S. , I don`t have a problem with synthetics, I would just prefer the
original amounts of zinc ( phosp.) and moly`s. I myself am now using the old
automotive Mobil One. As soon as my bike is back together, I`m going to
compare the Mobil One with some mineral oil under identical conditions
seeing if there is any cylinder-head, coolant, and oil temperature
differences. The wear characteristics will be compared by oil analysis. In
the mean time, I like the Mobil One, and no clutch problems.

Skip ( the more slippery the better )




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage, 6" pipe
Date: 22 Mar 1999 22:08:48 -0800

I'm not sure, but I think 6" pipe would be VERY close to the front wheel.
Lemme know how it works.
MM
----------
J.P.Zucht wrote
>I'm going to check to see if there is 6" pipe and plugs available, and
>probably make it somewhat shorter.
>
>phil





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Mystery Oil Additive
Date: 22 Mar 1999 23:01:58 -0700



    I know it's wacky, but I always put a shot glass full of Marvel Mystery
Oil in the crank at every oil change(1000mi).
    Doesn't make a damn bit of difference, but It provides a big
physiological boost.
    Anyone else?


    Ken,
       I don`t know any personally, but a lot of aircraft owners and
mechanics have been using Marvel Mystery Oil in engines with valve sticking
problems for years. No scientific proof, but after use, no more sticking
valves for awhile.
     I...ugh, I mean they, use a pint per oil change.

     Skip ( really, Mr. FAA, I didn`t do it )




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Tool List
Date: 22 Mar 1999 22:16:39 -0800

Thanks all for the positive feedback on the PVC pipe tool box. Went for my
daily 20 mile commute today, still seems like a good arrangement. I have
been a little paranoid to try extreme lean angles for fear the tube ends
will drag. I would definitely like to make this 2 or 3 inches shorter.

SO . . . .
I'm sure this has been covered before, but I'd really like to hear what
other people's ideas are on what tools to pack. I don't want to go totally
bare-bones, but I'm sure I've overdone it currently. In particular, what
size wrenches might I need for wheel removal, sprocket removal, brake pad
removal, throttle adjustment, etc. I would LOVE to not carry the foot-long 2
pound combination wrenches at the upper end of the size spectrum, but I
WOULD like to have the ones I need with me.

Mike Magier (dreaming of a magical land called MOAB)

PS - I'm working on the pics. A couple of snags: I don't have a Polaroid or
a digital camera, but I do have a scanner. Also, I currently have no idea
how to post anything on the web. So, I'm thinking of just scanning in about
8 or 10 full-screen high-res pictures and attaching them all to my next
email post to the list - shouldn't be more than 20-30 megabytes. <g> Anyway,
I guess this is a good time to learn a bit about making a web page (the next
great adventure)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight?
Date: 23 Mar 1999 01:16:21 -0500

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According to the manual supplied with my 96, the KLR650 weighs dry:
337 lbs (153 kg) 49 state
338 lbs (153.5 kg) Cal.
Hope this helps, NY Pete
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Ric & Lori Lamoureux <[e-mail]>
    To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
    Date: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 12:48 AM
    Subject: (klr650) Weight?=20
   =20
   =20
    How about an easy one--no oily research, no brake theory hand =
wringing, no nuthin'....
    =20
    What is the true wet weight, empty tank, of the KLR 650?
    =20
    Rick (137lbs, after dinner tonight)

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BE74CA.C3307060
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    charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>According to the manual supplied =
with my 96, the=20
KLR650 weighs dry:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>337 lbs (153 =
kg) 49=20
state</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>338 lbs (153.5 kg) Cal.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hope this helps, NY Pete</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Ric & Lori Lamoureux <<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A>><BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A> =
<<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Tuesday, March 23, 1999 12:48 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>(klr650) =
Weight?=20
    <BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>How about an easy one--no oily =
research, no=20
    brake theory hand wringing, no nuthin'....</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>What is the true wet weight, =
empty tank, of=20
    the KLR 650?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Rick (137lbs, after dinner=20
    tonight)</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BE74CA.C3307060--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Shoei helmet info
Date: 22 Mar 1999 23:10:28 -0700

>Shoei has a new model called the Syncrotech, another flip-top lid like the
>Nolan N100.  They are shown at www.motodepot.com and www.accwhse.com
>
>

That`s the revised model of the Duotech. Same flip mechanism.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Pannier Info
Date: 22 Mar 1999 23:15:48 -0700

List, a while back, someone posted a website that had several brands and
comparisons of aluminum panniers. I`ve lost it or deleted it and would
appreciate it if someone let me know what it was. Thanks.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Chicago area
Date: 23 Mar 1999 00:20:00 -0800



----------
> From: [e-mail]
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: (klr650) Chicago area
> Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 7:20 PM
>
> Is it time for another Chicago area KLR breakfast?
> How about all of us meeting at the Highland House on a Sunday AM.
> Any other proposals?

I'm definately up for it when the whether gets a little more stable.
Winter has made me weak and I don't think I could enjoy an early morning
ride down from Milwaukee in 30 degree weather like I could last fall.
Alex, Bill, Ken, any other new list members in the area, hows about it?
Should we start planning?

I was also thinking about doing a little get together north of the border
in WI.  I lean towards street riding, and I have found some pretty sweet
twisty, bumpy roads over last few years starting near the Whitewater area
(40 min west of Milw.), ending at the Holy Hill area 30 min north of
Milwaukee.  I've kind of weaved these roads together into an about a two
hour tour of the countryside.  Of course there are sections of straight
roads, but they are mostly scenic and they are necessary to get to the next
set of good roads. The KLR is the perfect weapon for most of these roads.
Anyway, I don't know if any of you are up to a long ride up from Chicago, a
FUN, long, hard ride in the countryside, and a long ride down, but I
thought I'd bring it up.  It is definately a whole day activity though if
you're coming from Chicago, so I would have to find some restaraunts along
the way.  Do you guys think this is doable?  Actually, if any of you guys
are ever in the area, send me a post and we'll meet to do the ride.  But,
as always, it would be cooler if we got a group of us, so talk to your
friends (KLR or not).

Carlos (so damn ready to start riding, it hurts)
A5 21,700mi





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Alternative storage
Date: 22 Mar 1999 22:33:55 -0800

I haven't physically compressed the forks fully, but my trusty eyeball tells
me there is more than adequate clearance. I think a 6" tube (as someone else
suggested) would be cutting it dangerously close.
Mike Magier (if I have 2 bikes, does that mean I get to ride twice as
often?)
----------
> From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
> Subject: Re: (klr650) Alternative storage
> Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 21:58:27 +0000

<snip>
>see if there are any other configurations.  One thought that did cross
>my mind though is if the front wheel gets fully compressed will there
>still be enough clearance between the tire and the frame mounted tube.
<snip>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Pannier Info
Date: 22 Mar 1999 23:35:42 -0800

Skip,

Try here:

http://privat.schlund.de/c/carlo/panniers.htm

I have built my three in one sidebox/top box combo and am having it powder
coated as we speak.  It looks awesome and big!  I'll post some pics by this
weekend.

If you look on the above link at the Roemer box I have basically built a KLR
specific replica, with a few tasty modifications.

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>List, a while back, someone posted a website that had several brands and
>comparisons of aluminum panniers. I`ve lost it or deleted it and would
>appreciate it if someone let me know what it was. Thanks.
>
>Skip
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maintenance & Warranty
Date: 22 Mar 1999 23:24:44 -0800

Arne,

My '98 Canadian owners manual states that a Kawi Dealer or someone equally
competent can carry out the maint under warranty and suggest keeping records
of any maint done..

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>I guess they've made some changes then as my owners manual doesn't contain
>any of that.  The supplement very clearly states "must", not "should".
>There is similar wording in the warranty supplement but they have removed
>the "OR someone equally competent..." section.
>
>Arne - "only in Canada eh?  Pity..."
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 11:39 AM
>Subject: (klr650) Maintenance & Warranty
>
>
>>On 3/22/99, [e-mail] writes: snip
>>
>>>"Kawasaki Owner's Guide" specifically states the following:
>>>1. The owner must deliver, at his expense, the complete product to an
>>>authorized Kawasaki dealer for all periodic maintenance services
>>
>>
>> Arne this is reprinted from the warranty that came with my A10:
>>_____________
>> "3. Owner's Obligations. (a) Owner must deliver the
>> motocycle to an authorized Kawasaki motorcycle dealer
>> *OR* equally qualified service facility for inspection,
>> maintenance services and adjustments.
>>---------------
>>     And this from the A10 owner's manual, page 3:
>>_____________
>> "You should keep a maintenance record for your motorcycle. To
>> assist you in keeping this record, we have provided space on p.
>> 110 through 113 of this manual where an authorized Kawasaki
>> Dealer, *OR* someone equally competent, can record the
>> maintenance. You should also retain copies of maintenance
>> work orders, bills, etc., as verification of this maintenance."
>>----------------
>>
>> It only says that you SHOULD, not that you MUST keep records.
>> Records might help prove your case in court, but proving that
>> we are 'equally competent' compared to that burned out, acid
>> casualty that the dealer generously calls a mechanic, now
>> that may be hard to do...
>>
>> Redondo Ron (wearing his oppositional disorder for all the world to see;)
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Valve Adjustment & Kick starter.
Date: 23 Mar 1999 00:09:43 -0800

folks,
I just got my bike running this weekend after a total overhaul of the engine
top-end.
Let me tell ya, it's not as easy as it could be!  But, it can be done by an
average backyard mechanic if he takes his time.

I now have two remaining questions, and yea I have read the FAQs.

1) how to measure the valve clearances with feeler guages.  First, I have
english guages that go in thousandth increments.  They have the metric
conversions on but this means that they seem kind of "coarse" in the metric
sizes.  is this OK?  Will one thousandth be enough "resolution"?

1a) Ok, maybe there are three questions!  Where to put the feeler guage?  (no
wisecracks!)  If I put the feeler guages under one side of the cam, there's more
clearance than under the other side of the same cam.  This seems to imply that
the cam surfaces at TDC are not parallel to the shim surfaces.  It also makes it
hard to decide what the actual clearance is.  I am having trouble deciding if
the tightest spot is the right place or measure, or somewhere else.

2) finally, has anyone installed the kick starter kit?  is it hard to do?  The
instructions that came with it SUCK!  Do I need any special tools?  I guess I'd
like to pull the clutch hub while I'm in there and do the back spring inspection
recommended by Eldon and others.

I'm really psyched to go riding, and train for the Reno200 and Moab but I'm
afraid to burn all those nice new valves if I am not right on spec.  As it is, I
buttoned it up temporarily and went out and rode 1 mile.  It's sure running
well!  I just want to make sure it stays that way.

Thanks!
Cheers!
Chris





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) carb modifications
Date: 23 Mar 1999 00:37:26 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>I can get you a Mikuni flat slide carb kit for the KLR.  I put one on my
>XR600 and it makes a big difference in the mid to top end.  Since the XR
>didn't have a CV carb to begin with, the improvement on a KLR would be
HUGH!



At the risk of exposing my ignorance with carburation (I do know that it
serves to mix the air and gas, atomize it, and send it to the intake), but
as for CV, Flat Slide, (?) you're losing me.  What (and how) does the Mikuni
kit improve the stock carburator performance?  If all the info is in the
archives, you can respond off-list so as not to burden the band-width.

Thanks,

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Valve Adjustment & Kick starter.
Date: 23 Mar 1999 01:37:30 -0700



|folks,
|I just got my bike running this weekend after a total overhaul of the engine
|top-end.
|Let me tell ya, it's not as easy as it could be!  But, it can be done by an
|average backyard mechanic if he takes his time.


This would be worthy of some detailed posts Chris...did you change the balancer chains and
sprockets?

|
|I now have two remaining questions, and yea I have read the FAQs.
|
|1) how to measure the valve clearances with feeler guages.  First, I have
|english guages that go in thousandth increments.  They have the metric
|conversions on but this means that they seem kind of "coarse" in the metric
|sizes.  is this OK?  Will one thousandth be enough "resolution"?


Not a problem because the shims come in .002" increments anyway..use shimcalc and it is
easier...

|
|1a) Ok, maybe there are three questions!  Where to put the feeler guage?  (no
|wisecracks!)  If I put the feeler guages under one side of the cam, there's more
|clearance than under the other side of the same cam.  This seems to imply that
|the cam surfaces at TDC are not parallel to the shim surfaces.  It also makes it
|hard to decide what the actual clearance is.  I am having trouble deciding if
|the tightest spot is the right place or measure, or somewhere else.

I check mine from the inside to the outside...I use go-no-go gauges...


|
|2) finally, has anyone installed the kick starter kit?  is it hard to do?  The
|instructions that came with it SUCK!  Do I need any special tools?  I guess I'd
|like to pull the clutch hub while I'm in there and do the back spring inspection
|recommended by Eldon and others.

No one has reported installing the kit thus far...good idea to pull the clutch...why not
upgrade it while you are in there...






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight?
Date: 23 Mar 1999 01:39:21 -0700

>What is the true wet weight, empty tank, of the KLR 650?


I can tell you the true wet weight , full tank with a few mods is 440 + or - 20 lbs according
to my local garbage dump...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) carb modifications
Date: 23 Mar 1999 01:42:11 -0700


|At the risk of exposing my ignorance with carburation (I do know that it
|serves to mix the air and gas, atomize it, and send it to the intake), but
|as for CV, Flat Slide, (?) you're losing me.  What (and how) does the Mikuni
|kit improve the stock carburator performance?  If all the info is in the
|archives, you can respond off-list so as not to burden the band-width.
|
|Thanks,
|
|Arne


Basically, the CV carb throttle slide is actuated by vacuum created by the engine acting on the
diaphragm where the flat slide is like the old Amal's were a twist of the wrist raises the
throttle directly...the flatsides are much more responsive...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Mounting tires
Date: 23 Mar 1999 01:47:03 -0700


|PS: You can get plastic thingees that slip over the rims to protect
|them from the tire irons. Worth having if you can get them, I think.
|
|

Fred has 'em and they work...without them your rims look butt ugly when done...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-"Tired" and curious...
Date: 23 Mar 1999 01:04:59 -0800


There is a pretty comprehensive article on changing tires on the KLR650/Dual
Sport News web page.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Price of 1999 Klr 650's
Date: 23 Mar 1999 01:06:23 -0800

MSRP is $6099.00 in Canada.

Arne

-----Original Message-----


>What seems to be the going price of 99 KLR 650's ? I am thinking of
>updating my 95
>I am on the "digest" mode so I don't know if you have to respond to me
>directly or not any help would be great thanks, Scott Wass
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maintenance & Warranty
Date: 23 Mar 1999 01:27:56 -0800

They must have made the change this year.  Here's the section I'm talking
about (attached for Vik).  Tom McKenzie had an interesting point about
challenging Kawasaki on his competence (which I don't doubt).  BUT (and this
is the big BUTT), it doesn't say that the "servicer" needs to be competent
or even qualified.  It says the work must be performed by an "Authorized
Kawasaki Dealer".


-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>Arne,
>
>My '98 Canadian owners manual states that a Kawi Dealer or someone equally
>competent can carry out the maint under warranty and suggest keeping
records
>of any maint done..
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-"Tired" and curious...
Date: 23 Mar 1999 04:42:05 -0500

If you have any trouble slipping the tire over the rim you can use liquid
soap (I've used 4L of Sunlite on one skidder tire...but it was worth 7000$
so I figured it was justified)  As for assebly, slip one side of the tire
over the rim, them put in the tube, anchor the valve stem, and them put on
the other side of the tire.   If you have a rimlock put it in after putting
in the tube and before putting on the second half of the tire.  I don't know
about the weights but you may as well take them off since this will make it
less likey of having all of the uneven weight at one place.

As for breaking a bead while stranded.  You'll wish you had a car jack so
you could wedge it under something (like a car) so you can use its leverage
to push in the bead although I'd rather use an excavator like I did at work.

-----Original Message-----


>- Tube THEN tire?  Or...
>
>- One "lip" of the tire, tube, then the other lip?  Or...
>
>- Is it tire completely installed prior to the insertion of the tube?
>
>My next set of questions concerns setting the bead.  What's the best way
>to do that?  Take it to gas station and pump it with an air nozzle?
>What PSI should I go to when doing this?





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tool List
Date: 23 Mar 1999 05:49:22 -0700


-----Original Message-----


- shouldn't be more than 20-30 megabytes. <g> Anyway,
>I guess this is a good time to learn a bit about making a web page (the
next
>great adventure)
>
>

Hey Mikey!!......Try it, you'll like it!!!

I would highly recommend Angelfire or Geo Cities.  There are a thousand
different free places to make web pages.  They are fun to do and if you need
any help let me know.

Web Meister Fred  (I am not "the" expert but I pretend to be)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) opinions on big gun pipe and FCR41 carb
Date: 23 Mar 1999 07:48:19 -0500

Not me! I save all my OEM equipment in case the exhaust nazi's show up here.
Which they may in a few years. Theyre already looking at tougher
inspections, even on bikes. Somehow I dont think a little 650 single could
be as bad as some of the cars out there, even though the large cylinder
motor doesnt burn as efficiently.

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 8:36 PM


In a message dated 3/22/99 1:39:48 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Was your original carb in need of replacement anyways? >>
If you guys are pitching your stock carbs, please let me pay for freight to
salvage them. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Patrice Robinet" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) unsubscribe
Date: 23 Mar 1999 07:52:58 -0500

unsubscribe klr650 list




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) First Gear Lurch
Date: 23 Mar 1999 07:55:56 -0500



-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 3:49 PM
I had this on my 600 before I swapped the clutch out. Warm it up and while
you are, keep squeezing the clutch and releasing it. That helped mine...
Also when you do take the clutch apart you may as well do the whole kit with
pressure plates, discs and springs. the barnett clutch has good grip, but
you'll get a bit of arm pump from it.
Also keep an eye on your water pump. you may get some leakage after the
rebuild, especially if this is a well run in bike or has been run with dirty
oil for awhile. You'll have to replace the mechanical and oil seals on the
pump with new ones, and these wont have bedded into the shaft like the old
set and may weep a bit. You could try shimming the oil seal from behind.


>Spring has finally made it to the Frozen North and a young mans fancy has
>turned to bike prepping and the first ride of the season.  Unfortunately,
>I've found a problem.  My KLR has developed a nasty lurch when shifting
into
>first gear.  The lurch is enough to sqwuak the rear tire slightly.  Is this
>normal for the KLR?  Also, my KLR has approximately 6,000 miles on it.
>
>TIA
>Bryce 98 KLR


Yah...we were just chatting about this Bryce..pretty common...short of
taking it apart
and cleaning the clutch up the best you can do is blip the throttle and
shift it into
second first. I have to be careful and not start mine in gear (neutral
safety
disconnected) because even with the clutch in she jumps right up....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) carb modifications
Date: 23 Mar 1999 06:22:29 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>
>|At the risk of exposing my ignorance with carburation (I do know that it
>|serves to mix the air and gas, atomize it, and send it to the intake), but
>|as for CV, Flat Slide, (?) you're losing me.  What (and how) does the
Mikuni
>|kit improve the stock carburator performance?  If all the info is in the
>|archives, you can respond off-list so as not to burden the band-width.
>|
>|Thanks,
>|
>|Arne
>
>
>Basically, the CV carb throttle slide is actuated by vacuum created by the
engine acting on the
>diaphragm where the flat slide is like the old Amal's were a twist of the
wrist raises the
>throttle directly...the flatsides are much more responsive...
>
>Kurt
>
>
>

Ya,  What Kurt said...

CV stands for constant velocity which is what you get through your CV carb
because it takes vacuum to raise the throttle slide.  Your twist grip opens
a butterfly valve in the carb that regulates the vacuum to the diaphram on
top of the CV carb.  It is the slide that regulates the air.  The fuel is
regulated by different jets at different throttle positions.  The flat slide
or round slide or D slide or whatever(there are many) gives a more direct
throttle response because your engine doesn't have to wait for the vaccum to
raise the slide.  You might not think that there would be much of a
difference but there is.  The CV carbs are nicer for street riding because
they smooth out the power delivery.  Off road they suck (pun intended).
Bouncing around over the bumps will make the slide do weird things.  To get
a better throttle response on the low end of the power curve the direct pull
carbs are the only way to go.  The aftermarket carbs are ususally a little
larger so this helps the top end too.  The Mikuni is a 41mm bore.  One
dissadvantage of the direct pull carbs, they do have the cough and stall
problem that the CV carbs don't, but you get used to that real quick.  Did I
say that I REALLY like my Mikuni?

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR Mystery Oil Additive
Date: 23 Mar 1999 06:56:19 -0700

>>I have, upon occasion, put MMO in with the oil in an old Triumph.
I always add 2oz MMO per 5 gal gas at each fillup.  I also add
Stabil (2 oz per 5 gal gas).  <<


I used to do the same thing with my Harley Sportster, except I'd take a shot
of Tequila also.


Gino, 10 days until April 1st, Pokluda



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Fw: Tankbag - Poisoning your food...NKLR
Date: 23 Mar 1999 07:14:33 -0700

>>Anyway, it turned out that the levels of pollution in the food after a 6
|hour 'tour-ride' was more than a hundred fold that of the recommended
|maxima.
|
|It was concluded to NOT store any food in the tankbag (above the tank) due
|to contamination. The only thing that would be safe are drinks and food in
|sealed glass or cans etc. Plastic will not help as the gasses will pass
|through - so it was claimed.<<

Finally something I can talk about intelligently since I do work in a lab.
I recent study of plastic wraps showed that when subjected to even low
amounts of heat, contamination from the wrap was absorbed into the food.
Mylar will also stop contamination.  If you are taking a long ride and pack
a lunch (especially in summer), I strongly suggest taking foods that are
prepackaged and sealed, even if you have a cooler.  Bacteria is only slowed
at 4oC, anything above that and potentially harmful bacterial will grow at a
rapid rate. Large meals don't help much on long days rides anyway as you
tend to get drowsy while riding.  Your are much better off to eat a big
breakfast, snack at lunch (stay with stuff like Cliff Bars, Power Bars,
fruit and such) and eat a good dinner.


Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) carb modifications
Date: 24 Mar 1999 01:10:37 +1000

Fred Hink wrote:

[...]
> larger so this helps the top end too.  The Mikuni is a 41mm bore.  One
> dissadvantage of the direct pull carbs, they do have the cough and stall
> problem that the CV carbs don't, but you get used to that real quick.

They do that even with an accelerator pump?

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) carb modifications
Date: 23 Mar 1999 07:25:14 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Fred Hink wrote:
>
>[...]
>> larger so this helps the top end too.  The Mikuni is a 41mm bore.  One
>> dissadvantage of the direct pull carbs, they do have the cough and stall
>> problem that the CV carbs don't, but you get used to that real quick.
>
>They do that even with an accelerator pump?
>
>Mister_T
>
>
>

Ted,

The Mikuni flat slide has an accelerator pump.  Even though it helps, it
will still cough if you are ham fisted.

Gino quit talkin about food I haven't had my breakfast yet.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-"Tired" and curious...
Date: 23 Mar 1999 09:21:58 EST

In a message dated 3/23/99 3:55:06 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< As for breaking a bead while stranded.  You'll wish you had a car jack so
 you could wedge it under something (like a car) so you can use its leverage
 to push in the bead although I'd rather use an excavator like I did at work.
>>
Some folks carry short pieces of 2X4 to 1. put under the center stand to raise
the height to do tire changes and to put againstg the tire and ask a friendly
cager to drive over it to breeak the bead. You gotta be careful to hav ethe
rime properly positioned so as to not damage rotors and rim edge,. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-"Tired" and curious...
Date: 23 Mar 1999 07:33:24 -0700


-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>In a message dated 3/23/99 3:55:06 AM Central Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< As for breaking a bead while stranded.  You'll wish you had a car jack
so
> you could wedge it under something (like a car) so you can use its
leverage
> to push in the bead although I'd rather use an excavator like I did at
work.
>>>
>Some folks carry short pieces of 2X4 to 1. put under the center stand to
raise
>the height to do tire changes and to put againstg the tire and ask a
friendly
>cager to drive over it to breeak the bead. You gotta be careful to hav ethe
>rime properly positioned so as to not damage rotors and rim edge,. frank
>
>

I just use the flat pointed end of the tire irons to get the bead broke
loose.  Get the end of the tire iron under the edge of the rim and work in
little bits till the tire comes loose.  New OEM tires are the worse to break
loose.  I think the factories must glue on the tires.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Chicago area
Date: 23 Mar 1999 09:32:26 EST

In a message dated 3/22/99 10:25:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Alex, Bill, Ken, any other new list members in the area, hows about it?
 Should we start planning? >>

You guys will have to count me out (and most anybody else, that .lives far
away, and that goes to church) if you do it on a Sunday morning. I work in a
church, and they probably wouldn't understand why I blew off the congregation
to do a KLR Lister Breakfast! Get me a picture if you do it though! I still
have the cheap camera picture from the first meeting!
Carlos...I would love to bring a whole group of riders on a Saturday up to
your neck of the woods this spring, for an all day ride on the street.
Probably have at least 10-20 bikes from Cruisers-Blackbirds, but it would be
fun. Let me know if you're willing to help organize it. If not, let me know
your route, and I'll set it up. Our club is looking for good riding roads for
our group rides this spring/summer/fall. Around here twisty roads are fairly
scarce, but we've got a few that we hit regularly.
Must be colder there in Wisconsin. Most of us have been riding on and off
throughout the winter, after the roads are plowed.

Bill S.
A12 "Moose"
Montgomery, IL



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR-"Tired" and curious...
Date: 23 Mar 1999 07:39:41 -0700

>>I just use the flat pointed end of the tire irons to get the bead broke
loose.  Get the end of the tire iron under the edge of the rim and work in
little bits till the tire comes loose.  New OEM tires are the worse to break
loose.  I think the factories must glue on the tires.<<

I find this to be true also.  I use the fancy, re-curved tire irons and they
break a bead quite well. The hardest bead to break was the OEM tire, after
that they have been easy. Tube type seem to be easier tubeless.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw: Tankbag - Poisoning your food...NKLR
Date: 23 Mar 1999 07:18:37 -0800

I wonder what affect a cancerous tank bag contaminated sandwich bag
carelessly thrown in a wilderness area would have on the BMW list population
as a whole?
Morgan
running away from the computer about right now




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #168
Date: 23 Mar 1999 10:17:04 EST

In a message dated 3/22/99 3:34:10 PM Pacific Standard Time, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

> Got any knee caps you need broken??

NO THANKS! They hurt bad enough after riding as it is.

Gary



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50 Opinions??
Date: 23 Mar 1999 11:02:59 -0500

Skip Faulkner wrote:
>     I did try Slick 50 in my Suburban several years ago and all it did for
> me was triple my oil consumption ( I had 119,000 miles on it) and later
> found out your not supposed to put it in a high mileage engine as it will
> loosen the accumulated sludge and deposits that help seal a high mileage
> engine.

Does this "loosening of sludge" phenomenon occur if you begin running
synthetics in a high mileage (> 100,000mi) engine that has run "dinosaur
lube" for most of its life? BTW, What benefit do semi-synthetics
provide?

Jake



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) carb modifications
Date: 23 Mar 1999 09:57:17 -0800


-----Original Message-----
'KLR650' <[e-mail]>



The Mikuni is a 41mm bore.  One
>dissadvantage of the direct pull carbs, they do have the cough and stall
>problem that the CV carbs don't, but you get used to that real quick.  Did
I
>say that I REALLY like my Mikuni?
>
>Fred

Not that this is a big concern (after all, I used to drive a Valkyrie) but
how much of a drop is there in gas mileage?  The stock carb is a 38mm is it
not?  And do you have to play around with the jetting on the Mikuni (after a
performance exhaust) in the same way you do with the stocker?

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Rumors & Maintenance & Warranty
Date: 23 Mar 1999 10:07:09 -0800

Arne: My opinion on the difference in wording between the Canadian & U.S.
KLR owner's manuals is the difference between warranty laws of the two
countries.  Although I'm not an expert, my guess is that U.S. law doesn't
allow for voiding of warranty due to self servicing.  It's too bad that it
takes laws to force corporations to do the right thing by its customers.
They should be consistent.
Darrel A12
SoCal

On 3/22/99, [e-mail] writes:
>I guess they've made some changes then as my owners manual doesn't
>contain any of that.  The supplement very clearly states "must", not
>"should". There is similar wording in the warranty supplement but
>they have removed the "OR someone equally competent..." section.
>Arne - "only in Canada eh?  Pity..."

On 22 Mar 1999, [e-mail] writes:
It is a pity Arne. Living near Kawasaki's headquarters, I'm
occasionally privy to inside gossip. I heard a couple of rumors
today that sought to explain why Kawasaki was moved to
change the warranty wording.

One said that the changes were made because too many
enthusiast were destroying their engines by overfilling them
with oil. Reading some of the posts here, this could be possible.

The second rumor alleges that the warranty change only applied
to Canada, because a number of owner/mechanics were using
seal blubber instead of factory spec oil. I haven't spent enough
time in The Great White North to form an opinion on this one.

Redondo Ron (bringing you all the unverified news that fits)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Rex Hefferan <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: NKLR...Tom's R100GS rant
Date: 23 Mar 1999 10:15:26 -0800 (PST)

MAN!, I am so far behind on my email reading.
  I really enjoyed the story, thanks Tom and Kurt. Also, I always
thought I was just too poor to aford one of the "Best" bikes out
there....a BMW. Now I know I'm too poor.
   Ironically however, I do own one of the best bikes out there, my
KLR650.

Thanks again.




==
Rex, A7

For Colorado Springs Dual Sport ride info:
http://shell.rmi.net/~avbb/cos.htm
Next gathering is April 30 - May 2


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) The HITMAN is in the HOUSE!
Date: 23 Mar 1999 11:20:59 -0700

OK!

Anybody whining to Gino about the cost of this years Moab Get-Together will
have to deal with me! ;<)  I have been known to bust a few knee caps in my
better days. (mostly my own but that is another story)

Gino has been gracious enough in the past putting up all the money for the
costs to put on this event.  We have grown pretty large in numbers and costs
and it is not fair to have Gino continue paying for your fun.  That is why
we are charging for this years rally.  This is not a money making venture.
You will be getting plenty for your money.  There will be three dinners
provided for you along with many great door prizes at the big dinner on
Saturday.  The riding in all this great scenery that Moab has to offer
should be worth more than the price of the registration.  You will make new
friends and see faces to the email you have seen in the past.  We will even
have real live porta potties this year.  Maybe even a few umbrella girls!!

So if you think that the $30 is too much do me and my "Goons" a favor and
stay home and stop whining!  Those that do come to Moab will take back
memories with them that they will never forget and how much will that be
worth?

Fred HITMAN Hink     ps.   before you get your panties in a wad, most of
this was done tongue in cheek. ;)






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Tankbag - Poisoning your food
Date: 23 Mar 1999 10:20:54 -0800

I'm thinking (there I go again), that since the Kawasaki tankbag for the KLR
doesn't rest directly above the gas cap that this poisonous vapor shouldn't
be a problem for storing food in it.  OTOH, since my achilles heel of the
KAW tankbag has presented itself (torn clear plastic map window), this
probably isn't the case.
I'll stick with storing food in my Camelbak Mule and my riding jacket.
Darrel
***********************************************
It was concluded to NOT store any food in the tankbag (above the tank) due
|to contamination. The only thing that would be safe are drinks and food in
|sealed glass or cans etc. Plastic will not help as the gasses will pass
|through - so it was claimed.
|
|A number of bags where tested on some 'standard' bikes. The result where
|very close for all combinations other than this: Store the food as high
away
|from the bottom of the bag - where the filler/breather cap is!
|
|So, use a tank bag or not - just best not to store the food in it!
|Of cause if you smoke you probably won't mind a salami sandwich with a bit
|of a petrol taste to it.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) carb modifications
Date: 23 Mar 1999 11:38:02 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Fred Hink <[e-mail]>
>To: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>; Arne Larsen <[e-mail]>;
>'KLR650' <[e-mail]>
>Date: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 5:29 AM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) carb modifications
>
>
>
>The Mikuni is a 41mm bore.  One
>>dissadvantage of the direct pull carbs, they do have the cough and stall
>>problem that the CV carbs don't, but you get used to that real quick.  Did
>I
>>say that I REALLY like my Mikuni?
>>
>>Fred
>
>Not that this is a big concern (after all, I used to drive a Valkyrie) but
>how much of a drop is there in gas mileage?  The stock carb is a 38mm is it
>not?  And do you have to play around with the jetting on the Mikuni (after
a
>performance exhaust) in the same way you do with the stocker?
>
>Arne
>
>
>

Arne,

I was looking at the Mikuni for my XR which is a "tapered bore" 41mm flat
slide.  The Mikuni that White Bros. has put together in their performance
kit for the KLR is a 38mm round slide.  Which would still give you a
performance boost over the stock CV carb.  Almost everyone that puts on a
different carb has already done the exhaust and filter trick.  So the new
Mikuni is jetted towards the rich side for your other mods.  If you are
concerned about fuel mileage then you should be going with a smaller carb.
The idea here is to make power you have to burn fuel.  If you don't want to
burn fuel then you won't make much power.  Simple, No?
My feeling about fuel mileage after a performance change is that the MPG is
less because you are twisting the throttle harder utilizing that new found
power.  You should be able to get about the same MPG with performance mods
if you take it easy on the throttle.  But what is the point?

Fred  (the HITMAN has left the house)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maintenance & Warranty
Date: 23 Mar 1999 10:49:39 -0800

DOH!  I think I've got it figured out now.  The evil Empire, AKA "Canadian
Kawasaki Motors INC.", seems to have decided that for 1999, they want the
dealer (their underlings) to perform all services.  This is why they include
a separate pamphlet entitled "Kawasaki Owner's Guide" stating such.
However, while they did alter the Owners Manual by moving the Maintenance
and Warranty section from the beginning of the book (as in Vik's 1998
manual) to page 57 (at least in my 1999 manual), that section DOES say that
"an authorized Kawasaki dealer, or someone equally competent can record the
maintenance".  The interesting thing for us 1999/A13 Canadian KLR650 owners
is that the Owner's Manual and the Owner's Guide appear to contradict each
other.  There-in lies the crack in the armor which the Rebellion (us) must
exploit to its fullest potential.

Now if we could only have a precedent-setting, legal definition of "record
the maintenance".  Does  record=perform???

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: (klr650) carb modifications
Date: 23 Mar 1999 13:43:41 EST

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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In a message dated 3/23/99 12:59:41 PM EST, [e-mail] writes:

<< Not that this is a big concern (after all, I used to drive a Valkyrie) but
 how much of a drop is there in gas mileage?  The stock carb is a 38mm is it
 not?  And do you have to play around with the jetting on the Mikuni (after a
 performance exhaust) in the same way you do with the stocker?

 Arne
  >>

Arne,
The answer is probably:  more.  (more gas, less mileage..  more jetting fixes,
etc.)  I think I'm going to do this this summer, as I know the beast can run
better than it is, and it's going on 7 years old so it's time to see what she
has...  But as I've changed carbs in the past, this is not for someone that
doesn't like to play with tools.  I would venture to say that once you've got
it dialed in, she's going to ROCK & ROLL.....

MN Ron (It's riding time again, and I'm gonna........)

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-----Original Message-----
'KLR650' <[e-mail]>



The Mikuni is a 41mm bore.  One
>dissadvantage of the direct pull carbs, they do have the cough and stall
>problem that the CV carbs don't, but you get used to that real quick.  Di=
d
I
>say that I REALLY like my Mikuni?
>
>Fred

Not that this is a big concern (after all, I used to drive a Valkyrie) but
how much of a drop is there in gas mileage?  The stock carb is a 38mm is i=
t
not?  And do you have to play around with the jetting on the Mikuni (after=
 a
performance exhaust) in the same way you do with the stocker?

Arne




--part0_922214621_boundary--



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) The HITMAN is in the HOUSE!
Date: 23 Mar 1999 10:58:41 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>So if you think that the $30 is too much do me and my "Goons" a favor and
>stay home and stop whining!  Those that do come to Moab will take back
>memories with them that they will never forget and how much will that be
>worth?


I thought $30.00 was cheap.  On the other hand, that does equal around $400
CAN.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Fw: Aerostich Leaks: Word from Andy Goldfine of Aerostich
Date: 23 Mar 1999 11:59:19 -0700

The following is from the GS list. Andy Goldfine is the President of Aerostich...


-----Original Message-----


Andy Goldfine was kind enought to take the time to email me with the
following suggestions for keeping his garments as dry as possible.  He did
give me permission to forward these comments to the list, as he is not a
member (the post was forwarded to him).  Here are those comments:


>Marco,
>
>Your 'Crazy Trip and Many Product Reviews' post to the BMW list was
>interesting to read.   I am sorry your suit leaked in the crotch and
>hope the following comments will be useful.  There are several things
>you can do to lessen or eliminate this leaking.  The Roadcrafter suits
>and Darien pants are not waterproof designs.  The Darien jacket is.
>The non-waterproof designs are the way they are because of my subjective
>reasons.  These reasons usually involve ergonomic convenience, everyday
>utility, dressing/undressing speed, etc....
>
>The only areas where the roadcrafter and darien pants leaks are at the
>zippers.   All of the rest of the seams of the garments are securely
>sealed with a heat applied tape, and the fabric itself is waterproof.  I
>made the darien pants front-fly-zipper-design easy to use for dressing,
>for undressing, and for urinating (men).   All the other waterproof
>designs I looked at or tried in prototype form did not meet these
>priorities.   For most riders their darien jacket covers the pant zipper
>fly completely so leaks there are never an issue. This was always the
>design intent.  For a few taller riders on some specific bikes, the
>darien jacket is not long enough to cover so water can come in the pant
>zipper fly after long and/or hard rain conditions.   We make the darien
>pants in regulars and longs, but the darien jackets are only made as
>regulars.   If we become able to make the darien jackets in longs,  much
>of the leaky fly zipper problems will be solved.
>
>We recently (about two months ago) revised the darien pant zipper fly's
>pattern and sewing design so the current version of the pants leaks far
>less often (and less amount) at this location, but this change is still
>not a waterproof double flapped design.  (at the same time the pant's
>waistband and belt loops were also re-designed for a better fit with
>less rise in the front ...and a better fitting belt)
>
>At our website in the 'customer service' section there is a link on suit
>care that reads (in the waterproofing part):
>
>"Aerostich Roadcrafter suits feature a unique zipper arrangement that is
>key to it's convenience and function as armor for everyday riding. This
>design can become a source of water entry in extremely wet conditions.
>If you are experiencing leaks at these zippers, or at the underarm zips,
>they can be hand-sealed using Aqua Seal«, K-Kote«, or similar liquid
>seam sealer. Hand sealing a few areas can dramatically improve severe
>wet weather performance. Seal only these areas: The outer stitching
>around the perimeter of both underarm zips (and the knit zipper tape);
>also, the outer stitching on both sides of the right leg zipper (and the
>knit zipper tape) from the top to 4 or 5 inches below the bend in the
>knee; also, the outer stitching on both sides of the left leg zipper
>(and the knit zipper tape) from about two inches above the bottom of the
>outer Velcro chest flap, down to about 4 or 5 inches below the bend in
>the knee. When using these seam sealing products, make sure that they
>are thin enough to partially soak into the fabrics fibers, thread, and
>the stitching attaching the zippers to the garment. Use two applications
>and allow the sealer to dry between each application. In addition to the
>stitching attaching the zippers to the garment, also apply sealer to the
>black knit nylon zipper tape that the zippers teeth are attached to. Do
>not apply sealer too heavily in this area or it will interfere with the
>zipper slider. Seam sealer should soak into the knit zipper tape and dry
>invisibly. "
>
>The above applies specifically to roadcrafter suits, but if you follow
>the same principle of sealing the zipper tape (what the zipper teeth are
>attached to) and try some seam sealer there it will make a noticeable
>difference, particularly if you are in an all-day rain and the folds of
>the jacket are directing the water runoff toward this location.    I
>apologize for your experience and hope these suggestions will help.  Let
>me know if I can be of other assistance.
>
>Andy
>
>--
>Andy Goldfine        218 722 1927 ext 121      fax [phone]
>8 South 18th Ave West
>Duluth, MN 55806, USA
>[e-mail]
>
>DISCLAIMER: Unless otherwise indicated, this correspondence is a personal
>opinion and NOT an official statement of Aero Design and Mfg. Co. Inc.






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Valve Adjustment & Kick starter.
Date: 23 Mar 1999 11:21:49 -0800



Kurt Simpson wrote:

> |folks,
> |I just got my bike running this weekend after a total overhaul of the engine
> |top-end.
> |Let me tell ya, it's not as easy as it could be!  But, it can be done by an
> |average backyard mechanic if he takes his time.
>
> This would be worthy of some detailed posts Chris...did you change the balancer chains and
> sprockets?

Well, some details are forthcoming, for instance, there are four nuts on "studs" two that hold
the head down to the cylinder "block" and two that hold the "block" down to the case.  These
are outside the engine, on the centerline, front and back of the block.  These must be
tightened to the proper torque.  In order to do so, you MUST remove the starter motor (easy)
and the external oil line that feeds the head.  You also must purchase a tool called a "crow's
foot wrench."  This looks like the end of an open-ended wrench that has been cut off and a
square hole put in it.  You can drive it thru the square hole with a socket ratchet or a
torque wrench drive.  In short, it's like a cross between a socket and an open ended-wrench.

I didn't replace my balance chain, balancer sprockets, or cam chain. My bike only has ~24k
miles on it but it's had a hard life, bent valves at least twice.  I probably should but I
didn't take the side covers off.  I could then do the upgrade of the balance chain tensioner
parts to the later model parts ( I think I have an A2 (1988)).  What do people feel is the
service interval on these parts?

>
>
> |
> |I now have two remaining questions, and yea I have read the FAQs.
> |
> |1) how to measure the valve clearances with feeler guages.  First, I have
> |english guages that go in thousandth increments.  They have the metric
> |conversions on but this means that they seem kind of "coarse" in the metric
> |sizes.  is this OK?  Will one thousandth be enough "resolution"?
>
> Not a problem because the shims come in .002" increments anyway..use shimcalc and it is
> easier...

I was trying to avoid that.  Just 'cause I don't wanna get my keyboard greasy! ;-)  Seriously,
I guess I better download that thing, that will do the conversions between metric and english
for me?

>
>
> |
> |1a) Ok, maybe there are three questions!  Where to put the feeler guage?  (no
> |wisecracks!)  If I put the feeler guages under one side of the cam, there's more
> |clearance than under the other side of the same cam.  This seems to imply that
> |the cam surfaces at TDC are not parallel to the shim surfaces.  It also makes it
> |hard to decide what the actual clearance is.  I am having trouble deciding if
> |the tightest spot is the right place or measure, or somewhere else.
>
> I check mine from the inside to the outside...I use go-no-go gauges...

I'm not sure what you mean here, what's a go-no-go guage?  Is that different than a set of
feeler guages.  My guages look like a little swiss-army knife with all the little flat pieces
of shim stock stacked up, each numbered in thousandths.  I think it's stainless steel.

What do you mean by inside to outside?  I check from between the cams towards the front (exh
cams), or towards the rear (intake cams).  The problem I have described is that if you move
the feeler guages right to left ( the guages are not as wide as the cam lobes ) you will
discover varying clearances.  I'm still not sure of the extent of the variation, but I'll
characterize it soon.

>
>
> |
> |2) finally, has anyone installed the kick starter kit?  is it hard to do?  The
> |instructions that came with it SUCK!  Do I need any special tools?  I guess I'd
> |like to pull the clutch hub while I'm in there and do the back spring inspection
> |recommended by Eldon and others.
>
> No one has reported installing the kit thus far...good idea to pull the clutch...why not
> upgrade it while you are in there...


Yeah, I'm definitely going to put in a Barnett clutch while I'm in there.  But I want to get
an idea of what I'm getting into here, what special tools will I need?  The clutch hub
holder?  The magneto tool?  That kickstarter sure has a lot of parts!

Cheers!
See you at Moab!
Chris





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) The HITMAN is in the HOUSE!
Date: 23 Mar 1999 12:28:52 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>OK!
>
>So if you think that the $30 is too much do me and my "Goons" a favor and
>stay home and stop whining!  Those that do come to Moab will take back
>memories with them that they will never forget and how much will that be
>worth?


I hope you are joking about people complaining about the $30 fee for the
rally Fred.  I am so appreciative of all the time and effort people (incl.
Fred, Gino, Bill, Kurt, Skip, etc....I can't name everyone......) have put
into the webpage, the rally, the newsletter and this list.  It has made
owning a KLR a true pleasure and helped me get a lot more out of my bike
than I would have otherwise (also cost me a lot of money, but that's another
rant).

I am a consultant so I know there is no such thing as FREE time.  Whenever
one of these fine gentlemen spends their time adding value to the
KLR-internet-community in some way,  its time they didn't spend earning
money, playing with their kids, riding or hanging out with the old
lady(insert man as required).  What we have here with the DSN and KLR
list/page is something money can't buy and if the entry fee for access to
the list was $100/year it would still be a bargain.

While I am on the subject.  A lot of us have come up with great ideas,
modifications, whatever for our KLRs.  If we took the time to document them
briefly (a page or so) with some pics digital or print and sent them to Bill
Haycock we could really improve the DSN/KLR webpage.  The upside would be a
newbie to the list could check out info there without having to ask.  Just
an idea.

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maintenance & Warranty
Date: 23 Mar 1999 12:40:36 -0700


-----Original Message-----


> The interesting thing for us 1999/A13 Canadian KLR650 owners
>is that the Owner's Manual and the Owner's Guide appear to contradict each
>other.  There-in lies the crack in the armor which the Rebellion (us) must
>exploit to its fullest potential.


Arne,

In Canada when a legal document has contradictions it is usually interpreted
in favour of the party that did not draw up the document (ie. you).  There
is a legal term for this, but it escapes me at the moment.

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Philip Allen <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Maintenance & Warranty
Date: 23 Mar 1999 14:46:56 -0500

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

------_=_NextPart_001_01BE7565.E9511C4A
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    charset="iso-8859-1"

t least you got an owners manual. When I picked up my 1999 KLR650 earlier
this month all owners documentation had mysteriously disappeared. I am now
wondering if this is not mere coincidence!! I wonder how warranty problems
will be handled if I just say that I took my best guess at oil levels, tire
pressures and the like?

Regarding MOAB , it sounds excellent and I would like to go. Is there anyone
else in the SW Ontario area who might like to form what used to be known as
a "Convoy"?

Cheers

Phil Allen


------_=_NextPart_001_01BE7565.E9511C4A
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<TITLE>RE: (klr650) Maintenance & Warranty</TITLE>
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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">t least you got an owners =
manual. When I picked up my 1999 KLR650 earlier this month all owners =
documentation had mysteriously disappeared. I am now wondering if this =
is not mere coincidence!! I wonder how warranty problems will be =
handled if I just say that I took my best guess at oil levels, tire =
pressures and the like?</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">Regarding MOAB , it sounds =
excellent and I would like to go. Is there anyone else in the SW =
Ontario area who might like to form what used to be known as a =
"Convoy"?</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">Cheers</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">Phil Allen</FONT>
</P>

</BODY>
</HTML>
------_=_NextPart_001_01BE7565.E9511C4A--



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Valve Adjustment & Kick starter.
Date: 23 Mar 1999 12:49:02 -0700

>I didn't replace my balance chain, balancer sprockets, or cam chain. My bike only has
~24k
>miles on it but it's had a hard life, bent valves at least twice.  I probably should
but I
>didn't take the side covers off.  I could then do the upgrade of the balance chain
tensioner
>parts to the later model parts ( I think I have an A2 (1988)).  What do people feel
is the
>service interval on these parts?


In the most recent issue of DSN, Eldon Carl continues his on-going analysis of his
54,000 mile KLR teardown with Scott Waxman, engineer, and Vey del la Cruz, master
tuner and engine builder. The three of them conjecture that the KLR engine could do
100K if:
a. you street ride only and don't cruise over 75mph.
b. oil changed every 2,500 miles and filter 5,000
c. cam and balancer chains, balancer idler shaft and bearing are changed every 33,000
miles
d. engine oil maintained 10 ounces above the sight glass
e. air cleaner is kept clean and oiled.

Eldon adds, "The two biggest problems in the KLR650 engine are the crude chain driven
counter balancer mechanics and the huge counter weight loads put on the balancer shaft
bearings especially at high RPM's. The better you take care of the engine, the longer
it will last, espcailly if it isn't run real hard."

>I was trying to avoid that.  Just 'cause I don't wanna get my keyboard greasy! ;-)
Seriously,
>I guess I better download that thing, that will do the conversions between metric and
english
>for me?


It does everything but buy  them for you...even gives you the partno of the particular
shims you'll need and takes into account that some of the shims you are using can be
transferred to other valves minimizing the number you have to procure...

>not sure what you mean here, what's a go-no-go guage?  Is that different than a set
of
>feeler guages.  My guages look like a little swiss-army knife with all the little
flat pieces
>of shim stock stacked up, each numbered in thousandths.  I think it's stainless
steel.


no-go-go's are tapered so that on a .004-.006" if you can get it in it is a .004  at
least...if it stops sliding it is no more than .006" ...you can then put in a
.005-.007 and determine if it is a tight .004 or a loose .005 etc...

>
>What do you mean by inside to outside?  I check from between the cams towards the
front (exh
>cams), or towards the rear (intake cams).

This is what I mean...

The problem I have described is that if you move
>the feeler guages right to left ( the guages are not as wide as the cam lobes ) you
will
>discover varying clearances.  I'm still not sure of the extent of the variation, but
I'll
>characterize it soon.

I haven't experienced this...
|
Thanks for your post...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Ric & Lori Lamoureux" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight?
Date: 23 Mar 1999 12:37:25 -0800

So the actual weight of the KLR is about 400lbs, not 337 as claimed?
Figuring ~ 6lb/gallon for gas, and another 10 or so for oil and water.  I
realize that fudging on the part of the manufacturer as to the bikes weight
is tantamount to tradition, but that's a bit of stretch.  Yeeow.

Ric (feeling a bit undersprung at 137lbs <verified> )


>>What is the true wet weight, empty tank, of the KLR 650?
>
>From: Kurt Simpson
>I can tell you the true wet weight , full tank with a few mods is 440 +
or - 20 lbs according
>to my local garbage dump...
>
>Kurt
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Update...April Rally Moab...NKLR
Date: 23 Mar 1999 15:38:35 -0700

We've had two more people express an interest (10) in dualsporting in Moab the weekend
of car show  April 22-24. Again, this is not the DSN rally in June. Please keep this
message and respond to it when communicating to the list of people interested.  Anyone
needing a place to stay in SLC before the last 4 hours to Moab, let me know.

Anyone care to camp out on the White Rim? Advance camp permits necessary, let me or
the list know...

Regards,

Kurt
Salt Lake City




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] blood in a parking lot
Date: 23 Mar 1999 17:43:46 -0500

Well listers, I bloodied my left forearm and knee today!  I also bruised
my right thumb (leather gloves saved my hands.)  My estimated speed was
10 mph. TEN!

A number of factors contributed to a low side that could most certainly
been avoided. Hopefully we can all learn to ride more carefully from my
accident.

I am slightly hurt because I was wearing shorts and a t-shirt.  I am
going to order the motoport ultra II jacket and pants as soon I as can
possibly afford them and wear them everytime I ride the bike.  I always
wear my full face helmet and I will always wear my cordura.

I rode to the post office today because I needed to mail a letter, even
though I have a fever of 101.  While 101 is not really high, it does
impair you. I should have been more careful since I knew I was impaired.

The parking lot was one of these ultra slick asphalt ones.  Since this
was brand new asphalt that is smoother than your average sidewalk I
should have taken extra care.
Because of the landscaping sprinklers sections of the asphalt were wet
even though it has not rained in days.

I took a left turn too fast for the conditions of the road and my 50/50
pirelli tire (10 mph was too fast).  Going down was really surprising to
me.  Before I knew it I was down. In the future I will watch parking lot
asphalts much more carefully and will wear better protective gear.  If
one of us other than me will learn from my mistake it will have been
worth the post.  -Tim

Comments please.







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) [NKLR] blood in a parking lot
Date: 23 Mar 1999 16:12:32 -0700

>>I took a left turn too fast for the conditions of the road and my 50/50
pirelli tire (10 mph was too fast).  Going down was really surprising to
me.  Before I knew it I was down. In the future I will watch parking lot
asphalts much more carefully and will wear better protective gear.  If
one of us other than me will learn from my mistake it will have been
worth the post.<<

Yep, it happens before you know it.  First, with all due respect, you should
never ride in shorts and a T-shirt.  I hate to sound like an old fuddy
duddy, but doing that just is not the right thing to do.  After my accident
last year, where my leg got a generous dose of road rash, I have added
protective pants to my helmet, jacket and gloves which I have always worn.
In a month or two, I will need to be doing lots of commuting while one the
job, so I will most likely spring for a one piece Aerostitch suit for
convenience.  Then I can wear shorts and T-shirt to work, but still have a
protective suit to ride in.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Slick 50 Opinions
Date: 23 Mar 1999 18:14:09 EST

I own a 67 Ford, too. She is a Bronco, and I have to say I dumped Slick 50 in
her stock ( read worn out, 25+ years old ) 289, redlined the tach up and down
a few dirt roads, and she idled a lot smoother and started easier. I don't
have a degree in molecular physics or an electron microscope, so all I can
tell you is it worked for me! ( I sold that tired old 289 soon after, so I
can't tell you any long term effects ).
California Stu ( and Barb )



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tool List
Date: 23 Mar 1999 18:25:40 -0500

At 10:16 PM 3/22/99 -0800, Mike Magier wrote:
>Thanks all for the positive feedback on the PVC pipe tool box. Went for my
>daily 20 mile commute today, still seems like a good arrangement.

Mike,

I'm not sure whether to send you some fine beer or arrange for a tax levy
letter - your idea is neat but now I have one more thing to do on my list
before the big trip.  Great idea and application!

Stuart
KLR A12



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Fred's doctor says too much caffeine makes him nervous
Date: 23 Mar 1999 18:20:56 EST

<< So if you think that the $30 is too much do me and my "Goons" a favor and
 stay home and stop whining!  >>

Or have the gumption to show up and whine to everyone so we can see what a
sugar coated candy ass tightwad you are!

I like coffee, too.
            CA Stu



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw: Tankbag - Poisoning your food...NKLR
Date: 23 Mar 1999 18:34:59 EST

In a message dated 3/23/99 9:21:33 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I wonder what affect a cancerous tank bag contaminated sandwich bag
 carelessly thrown in a wilderness area would have on the BMW list population
 as a whole? >>
No effect, plastic wrapped items don't go with white wine. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) [NKLR] blood in a parking lot
Date: 24 Mar 1999 00:03:20 -0000

Tim,

I am glad you were able to get up and dust yourself off, maybe feeling a bit
embarrassed.  Some close friends of mine were involved in an accident
recently.  As my friends wife had only just started riding, he was riding
pillion.  They were travelling at around 70kmh and she accelerated up a
gentle inclining curve.  No one is exactly sure what happened, but the bike
crossed the centre of the road into the path of an oncoming car.  Weather
conditions were excellent, the type of day you just what to get out there on
the bike.    Point: Even a gentle, carefree Sunday ride can have disastrous
consequences.   What made this accident even more disturbing is that it
happened on 15 minutes from the centre of the city but it took 45 minutes
for an ambulance to arrive.  People at the scene of the accident made the
call within minutes of it happening, from a mobile phone.  Emergency calls
go to a call centre on mainland Australia and our telephone system currently
is unable to determine which state a call from a mobile phone is made from.
Unfortunately, the location of the accident, as described by the on-looker,
matched a location in another state and an ambulance was despatched there.
She died before the ambulance arrived but apparently, given the extent of
her injuries, it wouldn't have mattered if the ambulance had been there
waiting.
Her husband is still pretty banged up - I don't think he will ever ride
again.

Sorry for the morbid tone this took but when you are out there enjoying the
moment this is the last thing, if at all, that is on your mind.

I wear a Dri-Rider Thunderbolt when on the road which has a removable
thermal lining so I can wear it all year round. Since you are going to
purchase motorport gear I take it that you believe this style of jacket
doesn't offer enough protection.



Greig,
RIDE AND BE SEEN!



-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 9:44 AM


Well listers, I bloodied my left forearm and knee today!  I also bruised
my right thumb (leather gloves saved my hands.)  My estimated speed was
10 mph. TEN!

A number of factors contributed to a low side that could most certainly
been avoided. Hopefully we can all learn to ride more carefully from my
accident.

I am slightly hurt because I was wearing shorts and a t-shirt.  I am
going to order the motoport ultra II jacket and pants as soon I as can
possibly afford them and wear them everytime I ride the bike.  I always
wear my full face helmet and I will always wear my cordura.

I rode to the post office today because I needed to mail a letter, even
though I have a fever of 101.  While 101 is not really high, it does
impair you. I should have been more careful since I knew I was impaired.

The parking lot was one of these ultra slick asphalt ones.  Since this
was brand new asphalt that is smoother than your average sidewalk I
should have taken extra care.
Because of the landscaping sprinklers sections of the asphalt were wet
even though it has not rained in days.

I took a left turn too fast for the conditions of the road and my 50/50
pirelli tire (10 mph was too fast).  Going down was really surprising to
me.  Before I knew it I was down. In the future I will watch parking lot
asphalts much more carefully and will wear better protective gear.  If
one of us other than me will learn from my mistake it will have been
worth the post.  -Tim

Comments please.







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Todd Emsley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Vik's idea
Date: 23 Mar 1999 20:04:59 -0500

Vik suggested:

    .  A lot of us have come up with great ideas,
modifications, whatever for our KLRs.  If we took the time to document them
briefly (a page or so) with some pics digital or print and sent them to Bill
Haycock we could really improve the DSN/KLR webpage.  The upside would be a
newbie to the list could check out info there without having to ask.



    Could we get a quick yea/nea on this great idea. If I could get to see
pictures of all the people I have been writing to and learning from, it
would be worth it to me to scan a picture and write about myself as well.
Great idea Vik. Since I live 5 miles from the Atlantic Coast, getting to
Moab to meet is a little tough for me.


                                                            Todd    A11




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR: 2x2,not really dualsport
Date: 23 Mar 1999 20:28:15 -0500

http://www.4wdonline.com/Motorbikes/Rokon.2x2.html

If it was only a little bit faster :) Stephen Rivett




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) UV Protection NKLR
Date: 23 Mar 1999 17:33:30 PST

I was curious about UV protection while wearing my Shoei. I found their =
web site and zipped off some mail.  The answer is below.

----------
> Date: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 10:55:27
> From: [e-mail]
> To: Alex
> Subject: UV Protection
>
> Dear Alex,
>
> All Shoei shields offer UVA and UVB protection. The percentage is
> approximately 99.9%
>
>
> Best Regards,
> Shoei
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) UV Protection NKLR
Date: 23 Mar 1999 18:37:50 -0700

My understanding is that polycarbonates (your face shield and many sports
wrap around sunglasses) provide excellent UV protection without any special
coatings.

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


I was curious about UV protection while wearing my Shoei. I found their web
site and zipped off some mail.  The answer is below.

----------
> Date: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 10:55:27
> From: [e-mail]
> To: Alex
> Subject: UV Protection
>
> Dear Alex,
>
> All Shoei shields offer UVA and UVB protection. The percentage is
> approximately 99.9%
>
>
> Best Regards,
> Shoei
>








-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) sprocket storage
Date: 23 Mar 1999 20:44:41 EST

I've been looking for a way to store a rear sprocket and it reared up and bit
me today.

a rear sprocket can be bolted to the top rear passenger foot rest mounting
bolt. The center of the sprocket goes over the folding footrest, push the
welded wire boot guard in just a little and use a longer allen bolt with some
washers as needed and the sprocket mounts  just as if it was supposed to be
there.
The mini compressor is now up and running too. It took 9 minutes to inflate a
completely flat front tire to 38 lbs of pressure. It's mounted inside the
front fairing just above the headlite. the hose sticks through the R/H side of
the fairing just behind the turnsignal stalk where it is clamped to a brass
nipple. A hose clamp could be installed on both sides of the plastic fairing
to hold the nipple in place more securely while installing the hose when
needed. The toggle switch is just in front of the turnsignal stalk. I keep the
6 foot hose in the tour trunk until needed, which will probably be never now
that it is there.
A worn sprocket story on the list this past weekend reminded me to finish the
search for a secure sprocket storage spot. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Longevity
Date: 23 Mar 1999 17:53:18 PST




> c. cam and balancer chains, balancer idler shaft and bearing are change=
d every
> 33,000
> miles

Okay, is the procedure documented on the web site?

> Eldon adds, "The two biggest problems in the KLR650 engine are the crud=
e chain
> driven
> counter balancer mechanics and the huge counter weight loads put on the
> balancer shaft
> bearings especially at high RPM's.

Weird design. If the counter weight is put on the crank shaft, then the =
bearing loads are reduced at all RPMs producing longer bearing life. Go =
figure! Probably, space/cost constraints forced the design.

Alex




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-"Tired" and curious...
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:16:51 +0000

> And now the $10,000 question...  I know there's a "cardinal direction"
> for the tires when mounting but is there any certain part that's
> required to be over, say, the valve stem?  I've heard some folks mention
> this in the past, just wondering...
>
> Any advice you might have regarding this matter would be much
> appreciated.  And the sooner the better, as I plan on tackling this
> tomorrow (sorry so late transmitting, but Hotmail's been giving me fits-
> you get what you pay for...).  Thanks in advance,
>
> Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
> "The Happy Hooligan"


Juan,

I agree with what Fred said about the tire installation and just use
something like liquid dishwater soap to lube the tire bead.  It washes
off easy when you're done.  I've only changed about a 1/2 dozen tires
myself but found that putting a bead in the rim, then the tube, and then
the other bead worked best.

Jeff
A2
v
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Shoei helmet info
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:30:10 +0000

Eric Jasniewicz wrote:
>
> Well I just received my brand spankin' new RF800 today.  Cool lid!  Lotso
> padding, much more so than my ancient GRV.
>
> Shoei has a new model called the Syncrotech, another flip-top lid like the
> Nolan N100.  They are shown at www.motodepot.com and www.accwhse.com

Oh yes,

I've got the RFR and I think it's great but when I saw my neighbor's
RF800 I was impressed.  One thing I noticed about the shield though is
that you have to be discrete with the kind of sunglasses you use because
things can look pretty funky with certain lenses (like Polaroid).

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKLR] blood in a parking lot
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:37:14 -0500

"Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" wrote:

> I wear a Dri-Rider Thunderbolt when on the road which has a removable
> thermal lining so I can wear it all year round. Since you are going to
> purchase motorport gear I take it that you believe this style of jacket
> doesn't offer enough protection.
>

Thanks for the response.  I'm sorry to hear about the horrible accident in which
your friends were involved.  As for the suit you mention, I'm not familiar with
it. I've looked at Aerostich, Joe Rocket, FieldSheer, Motoport and Tourmaster.
Is there a web site for the Dri-Rider?  I did not find anything in the archives.
Thanks, -Tim




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) UV Protection NKLR
Date: 24 Mar 1999 13:36:56 +1000

[e-mail] forwarded:

> > Dear Alex,
> >
> > All Shoei shields offer UVA and UVB protection. The percentage is
> > approximately 99.9%

Thanks for that Alex.
So that's the official word? That's a pretty confident statement from
Shoei coming from the land of litigation.
I had noticed Shoei used to advertise the UV resistance in a few ads
in magazines here in Oz, and I always wondered whether other Shoei
models did the same UV thing.
In a sunburnt land like Australia, you'd think that UV protection
like this would be a major selling point, yet Shoei doesn't make
more of it, nor other helmet makers mention it at all.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) UV Protection NKLR
Date: 24 Mar 1999 13:45:38 +1000

Vik Banerjee wrote:

> My understanding is that polycarbonates (your face shield and many sports
> wrap around sunglasses) provide excellent UV protection without any special
> coatings.

I've suffered my fair share of red noses after a long day's ride in
my time, so I guess not all visors are created equal.
A bottle of sun cream is a standard content in the Gearsack bags for
both my bikes these days.
Being bit a sceptic myself, I've often wondered about the UV
transmission of my many visors, and how I could test for myself their
ability to stop UV, especially my tinted visors.
Tinted visors that don't stop UV are worse than equivalent clear
visors.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tool List
Date: 23 Mar 1999 19:26:02 -0800

Thanks for the tip, Fred. My Internet provider lets me use I think 3-4 MB of
space for a web page - I just haven't gotten around to using it for anything
yet.

On another note - I REALLY would like to get a useful list of tools to
bring. Like I said, I currently have everything INCLUDING the kitchen sink
in there, but it's bigger than I'd like. I'm afraid to do aggressive turns
because I'll drag toolbax before I drag pegs. If I can get rid of some of
the stuff in there it would help a lot. What do you bring tool-wise on long
trips? This might make an interesting thread.

Mike Magier (OK - I cant' pick up the ST until Friday . . .GROAN . . .)
----------
Fred the WebMeister wrote:
>
>Hey Mikey!!......Try it, you'll like it!!!
>
>I would highly recommend Angelfire or Geo Cities.  There are a thousand
>different free places to make web pages.  They are fun to do and if you
need
>any help let me know.
>
>Web Meister Fred  (I am not "the" expert but I pretend to be)





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Magier <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) sprocket storage
Date: 23 Mar 1999 19:30:50 -0800

OK Frank - we all want DETAILS! What compressor did you use that is small
enough to mount there? How did you wire it? How is it mounted? Pics would be
nice, of course.

Mike Magier (not long-winded enough to inflate my tires)
----------
> From: [e-mail]
> To: KLR650 List <[e-mail]>
> Subject: (klr650) sprocket storage
> Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 20:44:41 EST
>
<snip>
>The mini compressor is now up and running too. It took 9 minutes to inflate
a
>completely flat front tire to 38 lbs of pressure. It's mounted inside the
>front fairing just above the headlite. the hose sticks through the R/H side
of
>the fairing just behind the turnsignal stalk where it is clamped to a brass
>nipple. A hose clamp could be installed on both sides of the plastic
fairing
>to hold the nipple in place more securely while installing the hose when
>needed. The toggle switch is just in front of the turnsignal stalk. I keep
the
>6 foot hose in the tour trunk until needed, which will probably be never
now
>that it is there.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck
Date: 23 Mar 1999 22:45:21 EST

In a message dated 3/22/99 10:17:46 AM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< You can use a piece of 2X4 under the
 fender and on top of the tire.  This will allow you to compress the tire and
 not the springs when you cinch down your bike.  Or you can use a world >>

Fred,

I dont quite follow what to do with the 2X4, do you attach the tie downs to
the 2x4-- what holds it in place.  I will be hauling mine on a 4-wheeler
trailer occasionally.

Thanks,

Doug.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Pannier Info
Date: 23 Mar 1999 20:43:47 -0700




>Skip,
>
>Try here:
>
>http://privat.schlund.de/c/carlo/panniers.htm
>
>I have built my three in one sidebox/top box combo and am having it powder
>coated as we speak.  It looks awesome and big!  I'll post some pics by this
>weekend.

>Cheers,
>
>Vik


Thanks Vik, that`s the one.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tool List
Date: 23 Mar 1999 20:52:11 -0700


|On another note - I REALLY would like to get a useful list of tools to
|bring. Like I said, I currently have everything INCLUDING the kitchen sink
|in there, but it's bigger than I'd like. I'm afraid to do aggressive turns
|because I'll drag toolbax before I drag pegs. If I can get rid of some of
|the stuff in there it would help a lot. What do you bring tool-wise on long
|trips? This might make an interesting thread.


Well I guess anyone can start...from the toolkit and supplements:

1. wrenches...8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, and then whatever I need for the axle nuts...I ditched the
stock nuts and bought some nylocs from DualStar that don't require pins...the stock tool kit
does not have a wrench for the front axle nut.

2. 2 tire irons + 1 tire iron combo rear axle nut wrench, 2 plastic rim protectors

3. A spare front tube standard grade...

4. a nice kit from Dualstar that has a small ratchet with 8, 10, 12 sockets, 3 or 4 allen
wrench bits, and 2 phillips and 2 flat screw bits...I added a 6 inch flexible extension.

5. needle nose vice grip

6. 6 C02 cartridges and mini-cartridge pump thingee (what the hell is it called Fred?)

7. the screwdriver blade from the toolkit and spark plug remover

8. Leatherman

9. Clean-up wipes, handi-wipes

Spares: I carry a length of wire, electricians vinyl tape, a bunch of plastic ties in different
sizes. I need to develop an assortment of nuts and bolts....rear master stay, plastic thingee
that goes into the rear master cylinder

What others carry: Jake Jakeman carries a chain splitter, chain tool and additional links...

I'm sure I've missed something

Ajax




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Hauling in truck
Date: 23 Mar 1999 20:54:08 -0700

|<< You can use a piece of 2X4 under the
| fender and on top of the tire.  This will allow you to compress the tire and
| not the springs when you cinch down your bike.  Or you can use a world >>
|
|Fred,
|
|I dont quite follow what to do with the 2X4, do you attach the tie downs to
|the 2x4-- what holds it in place.  I will be hauling mine on a 4-wheeler
|trailer occasionally.
|

Doug, it is held down by the compressed springs...it fits between the top of the tire and the
bottom of the fender so the springs can't compress any further...that is the main thing with
tieing it down the springs have to be fully compressed or lodged against something like the 2X4
or Fred's magic thingee...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tool List
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:00:03 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>On another note - I REALLY would like to get a useful list of tools to
>bring. What do you bring tool-wise on long
>trips? This might make an interesting thread.


I think the biggest tip I can think of is to keep your bike up in shape
before something breaks.  I replace my bike every three or four years to
keep it fresh.  Seems like it is everyone else that breaks down or has flat
tires.  So I carry tools for other folks most of the time.  I carry the OEM
tool kit, three tire irons, moto pump and extra Co2 cartridges, an extra 21"
regular tube, patch kit, Leatherman, tow strap, some zip ties, first aid
kit, food and water of course, jacket or long sleeve shirt, note pad and
pen, matches, Quiksteel, extra B8ES for the 2 stokes that I find out in the
boonies with a fouled spark plug.

Like I said if you go over your bike thoroughly before you ride most times
it won't let you down.  The OEM tool kit will give you a good idea of what
the factory thinks are your necessities.  If you take upgraded versions of
this you should be in good shape.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR: Darien Gap
Date: 23 Mar 1999 23:01:22 -0500

I think I may be the only one, but I'm against the Panamerican Highway going
through the Darien Gap.  Anyway, since I plan to take a trip through it some
time, I need some help.  Does anybody know about any books/websites that
deal with building bridges, canoes, and rafts?  I'm hoping to use wooden
pegs instead of rope and nails if at all possible.  Gonna be quite the trip,
it took 741 days for the first jeep to make it with only water crossings and
no water travel.  Sure would be nice if somebody made those solid wheels for
a KLR650 or 640 Adventure, an extra 9 gallons would come in handy.
http://www.outbackofbeyond.com has some interesting reads.

Stephen Rivett

oh yeah, can the KLR650 be left on its side for long periods of time?
Possibly upside down too...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) sprocket storage
Date: 23 Mar 1999 23:00:30 EST

In a message dated 3/23/99 9:25:36 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<  we all want DETAILS! What compressor did you use that is small
 enough to mount there? How did you wire it? How is it mounted >>
Mike et al, I took a 12 volt potable compressor out of its plastic attache
case. The screw mount tabs that mounted the compressor to its case are used to
mount the unit above the headlite and about 11/4" below the top edge of the
fairing where the windscreen mounts. I used long thin machine screws  that fit
the mont flanges of the compressor and long enough that the compressor motor
and cylinder do not touch the plastic of the fairing body. I used appropriate
lengths of 1/4"  high pressure hose, about 11/4" long,  for my compressor, as
spacers on the bolts between the compresor and the fairing, the rubber also
helps quell the compressor vibration when its operating. On my A12 there are
two free female plugs for accesories. The white/black is the ground and the
brown/black is a switched hot. I put an inline fuse on the hot and wired both
the heated handgrips and the compressor (through a toggle switch). I had to
cut the short hose that came with the compressor for two reasons. I wanted to
have the hose from the unit sticking out of the fairing behind the R/H turns
signal where I clamped it to a brass nipple with a clamp in front and behind
the fairing body to hold the hose in place when I force the hose extension
onto the nipple and secure it with a clamp. I attached the end of the original
hose onto the extension because it has one of those clamping air chucks that
holds itself onto the tube stem. It takes too long to sit there and hold a
standard chuck to the valve. A six foot hose allows you to inflate your own
tires and get close enough to help a friend.
I dont have an electric camera, but I could draw it out and scan it, except
that I have no idea how to do it. The scanner just sits here with its miniture
green cyclops eye staring at me. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Tool List
Date: 23 Mar 1999 23:08:24 -0500

If you guys are in the middle of now where and need to conserve your CO2
carts you can use Starter Fluid to set your beads (tubeless only).  Just
spray a little bit in the tire and toss in a match from a distance...keep
upping the amount of fluid until you find out how much it takes rather than
over doing it the first try.  Anybody try it with gasoline?  Hehe, yeah, I'm
being serious.

Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----
List <[e-mail]>

>
>6. 6 C02 cartridges and mini-cartridge pump thingee (what the hell is it
called Fred?)
>
>Ajax
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) carb modifications
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:00:05 -0700



>>I can get you a Mikuni flat slide carb kit for the KLR.  I put one on my
>>XR600 and it makes a big difference in the mid to top end.  Since the XR
>>didn't have a CV carb to begin with, the improvement on a KLR would be
>HUGH!
>
>Fred
>
>

There would be some improvement in power, but the slide type carbs are less
tolerant of altitude changes. That`s why a lot of snowcatters and bikers
prefer CV carbs when there is a good bit of elevation change in their
riding. CV carbs compensate a little better. But like Fred said, if pure
power is what you`re after, a slide carb sucks fuel better.
    I had considered changing to a Mikuni flat slide, but my riding is
pretty extreme in altitude changes, plus the CV is more fuel efficient
 less power).

 Skip ( moderation in some things)






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) carb modifications
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:16:24 -0700



>There would be some improvement in power, but the slide type carbs are less
>tolerant of altitude changes. That`s why a lot of snowcatters and bikers
>prefer CV carbs when there is a good bit of elevation change in their
>riding. CV carbs compensate a little better. But like Fred said, if pure
>power is what you`re after, a slide carb sucks fuel better.
>    I had considered changing to a Mikuni flat slide, but my riding is
>pretty extreme in altitude changes, plus the CV is more fuel efficient
> less power).
>
> Skip ( moderation in some things)
>


 I forgot to note that in a previous post a number of months ago, I had
confused my snowcat carb with my bike`s carb. The Keihin CV on the KLR does
not have the intregal mini-pump as the one on my snowcat. Thanks for
catching that Ted.

Skip ( too many parts and too few vehicles)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage (PVC Q's)
Date: 23 Mar 1999 20:24:50 -0800

I was looking for the endcap described, and haven't been able to find
anything close except what was called a test cap or somesuch. It had only a
square on the cover, not a wing nut type thing, and thus would require a
tool just to remove. Can someone give me the exact name of the end cap that
was used? I've never worked with PVC before....


--
Rob Gendreau
Oakland, California
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage (PVC Q's)
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:29:50 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>I was looking for the endcap described, and haven't been able to find
>anything close except what was called a test cap or somesuch. It had only a
>square on the cover, not a wing nut type thing, and thus would require a
>tool just to remove. Can someone give me the exact name of the end cap that
>was used? I've never worked with PVC before....
>
>
>--
>Rob Gendreau
>Oakland, California
>[e-mail]
>
>

I think what was mentioned was a rubber expansion plug.  Looks like a big
stopper with a bolt and washer and wing nut on top.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tony <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) UNSUBSCRIBE klr650
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:39:56 -0700

UNSUBSCRIBE klr650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Slick 50 Opinions??
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:45:14 -0700

>Does this "loosening of sludge" phenomenon occur if you begin running
>synthetics in a high mileage (> 100,000mi) engine that has run "dinosaur
>lube" for most of its life? BTW, What benefit do semi-synthetics
>provide?
>
>Jake
>

 So they say. If I had been running on synthetic the majority of those
miles, I wouldn`t have had much sludge to loosen. I`ve been amazed at the
cleanliness of the innards of engines I`ve torn down that had been
predominately run on synthetics.
     Semi-synthetics are said to have the better qualities of both, mineral
and synthetic. Mineral oil tends to adhere a little better on engine parts
during long idle periods, thus helping to prevent corrosion. If you`ve been
running synthetic and have developed a little clutch slipping or oil
consumption, and still want the alleged benefits of synthetic oil, then a
blend ( semi-synthetic) is
recommended. I really don`t know if this helps with those problems. They may
and it`s logical, but undocumented.
     Both Mobil and Shell covertly advice against using full synthetic in
high mileage engines and/or engines with a history of oil consumption. I
don`t know about the high mileage part, but I personally would strongly
advise against using synthetic oil in an oil consuming engine.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650)  NKLR The HITMAN is in the HOUSE!
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:55:16 -0700

...................> snip<..............................
>Gino has been gracious enough in the past putting up all the money for the
>costs to put on this event.  We have grown pretty large in numbers and
costs
>and it is not fair to have Gino continue paying for your fun.  That is why
>we are charging for this years rally.

>So if you think that the $30 is too much do me and my "Goons" a favor and
>stay home and stop whining!  Those that do come to Moab will take back
>memories with them that they will never forget and how much will that be
>worth?
>
>Fred HITMAN Hink     ps.   before you get your panties in a wad, most of
>this was done tongue in cheek. ;)



What? I thought Gino was paying for the gas and lodgings too!
 What a bummer. Well, I guess $30 ain`t to bad to see the mugs of all these
fine people I`ve been Listening to for the past year.
     Seriously, I think $30 is a bargain for a roundup like this.
Even though I wasn`t there last year, I commend Gino for his generosity.
Sorry I couldn`t partake of it.
   That was $30 a truck-load, right?

Skip ( I`m saving up now)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) 99klr650 riding impression
Date: 24 Mar 1999 00:01:37 EST

Check out  www.motorcycle.com for great photos and  article about our beloved
moto...
Guy Le Baher
SF



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight?
Date: 23 Mar 1999 22:04:19 -0700



>So the actual weight of the KLR is about 400lbs, not 337 as claimed?


>Ric (feeling a bit undersprung at 137lbs <verified> )
>

Ric, the advertised weight is a dry weight. When fluids are added, well, you
can go from there.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric & Jill Dietiker <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) carb modifications
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:57:16 -0800

I have the White Bros. 38mm round slide "kit" (carb, cable & throttle
thingie). There are two things I loved about it, and two that I didn't. On
the positive side, I feel that (with the K&N & IDS) I got a big performance
boost, particularly in the middle. The carb also radically changed the
bike's character, as well, from mild mannered librarian bike to snarling
monster. Well, alright, the pipe helped there, but the instant throttle
response makes a big difference in the riding experience.

Someone once mentioned to me that he wished he had put on the 41MM flat
slide, which he felt gave better top end power at the expense of mid-range.

On the minus side, I don't believe the carb was jetted very well. Maybe the
new IDSs flow much better than the old SuperTrapps. I am not an experienced
carb hacker, so I've been into the carb many a time looking for a solution
that delivers max power, and minimal surging and backfiring. I've gone way
up on the main jet and raised the needle a few positions for more power. And
I've fiddled endlessly with the idle mixture and pilot jet to dial out the
surging at low speeds & low throttle settings, and the backfire under
deceleration. And I'm about to give up on the last two, and just live with
it - I've gone lean, and I've gone rich, to no avail. One good thing is that
I haven't found a combination that made the bike run poorly. So I guess if
you're somewhat careful, it's hard to really screw up.

I think I'm getting around 40mpg or a little more on my highway commuting
loop (wheelie on the onramp, splitting lanes at 20 or trying not to be
rear-ended at 75, wheelie in the parking lot). My tank range is down to
about 170 or 180 from about 235.

I'd like to dyno the bike - anyone know of a place near Palo Alto, CA that
has a dynomometer? I think if I knew I could take an hour or two off work
and get it done, I would me more likely to do it.

Hope this helped,
Eric.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric & Jill Dietiker <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Down-under tool storage (PVC Q's)
Date: 23 Mar 1999 21:58:27 -0800

>I think what was mentioned was a rubber expansion plug.  Looks like a big
>stopper with a bolt and washer and wing nut on top.
>
Yes, I have one on my house... but it's staying there!

Eric.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight?
Date: 24 Mar 1999 00:55:41 EST


In a message dated 3/23/99 8:28:31 PM, [e-mail] writes:

>if you believe such mags as Dirt Bike,

  Funny you should mention them.  I read an article from them many years ago,
in relation to this subject. How they went out to various motorcycle shops and
wighed show room dirt bikes, then compared them to the advertized spec.
  They used the method of weighing the front tire setting on a scale, the
measuring the rear tire on the scale, then adding the two.  They went on to
show the differences between the indicated weight and the claimed weight.
  I did this with my own bikes.  I must admit, I do give more creadance to
Dirt Bike than most other mags.
  I remeber when they did dyno tests on various types of gasoline. Based on
their findings, and my style of riding, Avgas is out, Racegas is out, all that
trick stuff is out, pump gas rated at 96 works fine for me.
  Remember the oil tests, I've been using Castrol 30w since. You guys can
fiddle all you want with Slick50 and that other stuff.  62K miles on a KLR650,
and then the dealer tellin me she dosen't need a rebore, new piston, lowend,
that the top end is still within limits, I must be doin somthin right.
  I do ride the hell out of them.

See Ya



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Weight?
Date: 23 Mar 1999 23:05:53 -0700

..........................> snip<....................
>  Remember the oil tests, I've been using Castrol 30w since. You guys can
>fiddle all you want with Slick50 and that other stuff.  62K miles on a
KLR650,
>and then the dealer tellin me she dosen't need a rebore, new piston,
lowend,
>that the top end is still within limits, I must be doin somthin right.
>  I do ride the hell out of them.
>
>See Ya
>

 I love single grades . They have always tested better than
multi-grades except for cool weather start-ups.
   I have gotten most of my customers ( those that pre-heat) to switch to
single grade oil, with excellent results.
    Due to the climate I live in, for a motorcycle , the multi-grades have
more benefits for me. When I went college in Mississippi, I ran nothing but
single grade oil.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Linus <[e-mail]>
Date: 24 Mar 1999 16:13:29 +0800

UNSUBSCRIBE klr650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Winslow <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Maiden voyage finished.
Date: 24 Mar 1999 10:14:50 -0500 (EST)

I just wanted to say thanks to all that offered advice in response to my
previous post. Yesterday I went back to get my bike and rode it home with
minimal trouble. I did what little cleaning of the carb I could do without
taking it off. It does still have the small throttle opening problem, but
I managed to get through the 1 remaining toll booth ($1) without it
quitting (a little choke seemed to help).

This weekend, armed with the service manual which is on it's way to me now
from Fred, I'll take the carb off and give it a good cleaning. I will
check for an air leak first, though.

Thanks again.

Eric (happy to have the bike home) A8




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Yusseri Yusoff <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Removing a link on a chain
Date: 24 Mar 1999 15:29:51 +0000 (GMT)


List,

Thanks for the recent advice about the type of chain to use for the bike.
Anyhow, I've gone and bought a EK X-ring. The thing was that the shop only
had a chain with 110 links on it. Since it was the same price as a 106, I
took it. So, how does one go about grinding off the extra links? Is a file
good enough? I'm not really sure how to go about it at the moment. Any
help would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Yus

--
Yusseri Yusoff / [e-mail]
http://www.ee.surrey.ac.uk/showstaff?Yusoff
Centre for Vision, Speech and Signal Processing
University of Surrey
Guildford GU2 5XH
---------------------------
After a year in therapy, my psychiatrist said to me,
               "Maybe life isn't for everyone."
                                               - Larry Brown




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Removing a link on a chain
Date: 24 Mar 1999 08:45:44 -0700

>Thanks for the recent advice about the type of chain to use for the bike.
>Anyhow, I've gone and bought a EK X-ring. The thing was that the shop only
>had a chain with 110 links on it. Since it was the same price as a 106, I
>took it. So, how does one go about grinding off the extra links? Is a file
>good enough? I'm not really sure how to go about it at the moment. Any
>help would be much appreciated.


You need a chain tool that breaks the chain...and then master link it back
together...I would call the same shop or others and find someone who can do it for
you...Fred could probably make it an endless chain if you wanted and send it to him...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Removing a link on a chain
Date: 24 Mar 1999 09:37:27 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>
>List,
>
>Thanks for the recent advice about the type of chain to use for the bike.
>Anyhow, I've gone and bought a EK X-ring. The thing was that the shop only
>had a chain with 110 links on it. Since it was the same price as a 106, I
>took it. So, how does one go about grinding off the extra links? Is a file
>good enough? I'm not really sure how to go about it at the moment. Any
>help would be much appreciated.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Yus


I doubt that your file is going to do much on your chain.  I would use a
grinder or an abrasive wheel.  If you have a chain breaker it would make
taking your chain apart much easier.  Pressing the side plates together can
be done with some vice grips or a special chain press tool.  This has been
discussed and is in the archives.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Di D" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Moving THE SPHinX IS a Pain
Date: 24 Mar 1999 09:15:30 PST

>From: Yusseri Yusoff <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (klr650) Removing a link on a chain

>So, how does one go about grinding off the extra links? Is a file
>good enough? I'm not really sure how to go about it at the moment.

Filing works fine.  Nice in a vice, if you have one.  Just got through
doing this myself.
Cheers
Eddie Caton
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR on its side...
Date: 24 Mar 1999 13:00:46 -0500


>oh yeah, can the KLR650 be left on its side for long periods of time?
>Possibly upside down too...

Stephen,

I do know from attempting to follow my friend on his RM through some tight
power-line trails, that the KLR will leak gas from the gas cap when on its side,
and when inverted (wish I had some pictures).


-Matt Duftler
Tarrytown, NY
A9





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bixby, Jeff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) New Guy!
Date: 24 Mar 1999 12:24:28 -0600

I  am in the process of buying a KLR , either new or used. I have already
checked the FAQ. Any horror stories, hints, advice, do's and don'ts, new vs.
used, etc. you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated!
Jeff Bixby
Automation Instructor
Dunwoody MMLC



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: balance shafts etc.
Date: 24 Mar 1999 10:49:29 -0800

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 23 Mar 99 17:53:18 PST
> From: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: (klr650) Longevity
>
> > c. cam and balancer chains, balancer idler shaft and bearing are change=
> d every
> > 33,000
> > miles
>
> Okay, is the procedure documented on the web site?

Not yet... anyone, anyone?  Bueller?;-)

>
>
> > Eldon adds, "The two biggest problems in the KLR650 engine are the crud=
> e chain
> > driven
> > counter balancer mechanics and the huge counter weight loads put on the
> > balancer shaft
> > bearings especially at high RPM's.
>
> Weird design. If the counter weight is put on the crank shaft, then the =
> bearing loads are reduced at all RPMs producing longer bearing life. Go =
> figure! Probably, space/cost constraints forced the design.
>

Well, I think physics (WHAT? AGAIN!!!) have more to do with it.  Crankshaft weights can cancel
primary imbalances.  I think the countershaft balance weights can cancel out second order
imbalances.  Now I'm thinking about tearing my engine down some more.  I really shoulda taken it
outa the bike. :(Beez


> Alex
>



> Stephen Rivett
>
> oh yeah, can the KLR650 be left on its side for long periods of time?
> Possibly upside down too...

Well, if you take the oil out of it... otherwise it will flow into the airbox and such through the
crank case breather.  Maybe you could just take off that hose (runs from the rear of the engine up
to the airbox, it's about a 3/4" rubber hose) and put a secure cap on the motor side?

Also, you would probably have to drain the fuel because it would come out of the tank vent.  maybe
you could plug this too?  It's the small hose at the rear of the gas tank under the front of the
seat.

Cheers!
Chris





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dale Borgeson <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #177
Date: 24 Mar 1999 12:50:23 -0600 (CST)

>
> Thanks for the recent advice about the type of chain to use for the bike.
> Anyhow, I've gone and bought a EK X-ring. The thing was that the shop only
> had a chain with 110 links on it. Since it was the same price as a 106, I
> took it. So, how does one go about grinding off the extra links? Is a file
> good enough? I'm not really sure how to go about it at the moment. Any
> help would be much appreciated.

A file would take a long time. The steel used in chains is very hard. I
use a angle grinder with a synthetic metal grinding wheel. An Al
oxide stone in a bench grinder would also work.

Cheers
--
Dale Borgeson    [e-mail]    Minneapolis, MN U.S.A.
"Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New Guy!
Date: 24 Mar 1999 11:50:55 -0700



>I  am in the process of buying a KLR , either new or used. I have already
>checked the FAQ. Any horror stories, hints, advice, do's and don'ts, new vs.
>used, etc. you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated!
>Jeff Bixby
>Automation Instructor
>Dunwoody MMLC


We can't give you any of that Jeff because the fact is it has been a good solid bike
since the beginning. If you can afford it there may be some advantages to buying a '96
or later do to some clutch/balancer related upgrades...but there are plenty of earlier
models giving reliable service. Buy a bike that has been well maintained and not
abused. It is usually obvious from the moment you look at a bike...Buying new is kind
of fun but the break-in is a pain...The best deals might be on a '98 or '99 slightly
used. We had a '98 sell off the website for $3,500 recently...good luck and we'll send
you the initiation ritual...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Karl Huebner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) unsubscribe
Date: 24 Mar 1999 14:05:04 -0500

unsubscribe




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bixby, Jeff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Buying new
Date: 24 Mar 1999 13:08:09 -0600


> I live in Minneapolis, the local dealers are quoting around $5000 out the
> door for a '99. Am I getting robbed or what? Should I look elsewhere?
>
> Jeff Bixby
> Automation Instructor
> Dunwoody MMLC
>
> ----------
> From:     Rob Heywood[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Sent:     Wednesday, March 24, 1999 1:00 PM
> To:     Bixby, Jeff
> Subject:     Re: (klr650) New Guy!
>
> Hey Jeff,
>
> After much study, I bought a KLR (99). Just got it home yesterday, in
> fact, two
> words: LOVE IT!!!
>
> There are NO down sides to the KLR. From what other owners say about its
> longevity and reliability, the future of mine looks bright. I paid $4400
> for
> mine (new).
>
> Good Luck!!
>
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Heated vests...
Date: 24 Mar 1999 12:15:14 -0700

I spent a few hours combing the archives yesterday for charging systems etc. I cam
across Dale Borgeson's Hall of Fame Post on the KLR electric system. I recommend it
highly. Now, the net result of my search is that the KLR does not have much capacity
for additional accessories and it would be a mistake to think I could add more than 6
amps...and maybe 55-60 watts. Am I right so far?

I'm about to hook-up my GPS which has a neglible drain...I can imagine someday wanting
to recharge my new Palm V and Cell Phone...both probably neglible. But the biggee
(even before auxillary lights) is a heated vest. I'd like to think I could work a
Gerbing thin liner with sleeves but I don't think the system will handle it. I think
Widder has one rated at 35 Watts, the Unobtainium is rated at 45...

So, the question, any KLR owners with specific recommendations on heated vests that've
worked...Vik..I have your testimony..but go ahead and add if you think of something...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Heated vests...
Date: 24 Mar 1999 12:26:43 -0700

>>I'd like to think I could work a
Gerbing thin liner with sleeves but I don't think the system will handle it.
I think
Widder has one rated at 35 Watts, the Unobtainium is rated at 45...<<


I have had a Widder for about 6 years now and it has performed flawlessly.
Works even on my DR350.  I use a manual switch and run it only when, my RPMs
are up.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryce Hysjulien" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Motoport Canyon Jacket
Date: 24 Mar 1999 13:35:39 -0600

Does anyone know of a retailer that handles Motoport gear or do I have to
buy direct from Motoport?

Thanks
Bryce 98 KLR




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Motoport Canyon Jacket
Date: 24 Mar 1999 12:35:56 -0700

>>Does anyone know of a retailer that handles Motoport gear or do I have to
buy direct from Motoport?<<

I think Competition Accessories sells Motoport

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated vests.and Grips
Date: 24 Mar 1999 13:10:31 -0800

Now you've opened a can of worms Kurt!  Just when the oil additives were
dying off...lol...=)

As you know I have run my aerostich vest and electric grips on my KLR with
no problems (this is generally at highway speeds).  I am just about to do
some rewiring of my KLR (as I just finished on my GS500) and have some ideas
for you Kurt.

1.  Hardwire your Garmin directly to your battery with an inline fuse.  The
Garmin has a voltage monitoring function that will allow you to monitor the
status of your charging system while riding.  This way you can turn on what
you need and see if its causing a problem.

2. Install a headlight relay/switch so you can shut off your headlamp during
the day when you are plodding along at low RPM and don't need it.  This will
free up power so you can run your vest and grips.

3.  Consider purchasing a small solar panel and using the same plug as you
use for your vest.  This way if all else fails you can recharge your battery
while brewing coffee trailside.  Obviously this is not an everyday item I'd
carry, but on trips of several days this might be worth it.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Vik

-----Original Message-----


>I'm about to hook-up my GPS which has a neglible drain...I can imagine
someday wanting
>to recharge my new Palm V and Cell Phone...both probably neglible. But the
biggee
>(even before auxillary lights) is a heated vest. I'd like to think I could
work a
>Gerbing thin liner with sleeves but I don't think the system will handle
it. I think
>Widder has one rated at 35 Watts, the Unobtainium is rated at 45...





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Kimpex Grip Heaters - NKLR
Date: 24 Mar 1999 13:10:00 -0800

I just installed a set of Kimpex grip heaters on my GS500 and will soon
install them on my KLR.  I have discussed both the velcro on grip heaters
and Kimpex ones below for those interested in this issue - for those who
aren't hit delete now!

Velcro Grip heaters from aerostich:

I have used these for about a year now and have been very satisfied with
them.  Installation is a snap as you just need to wire a plug directly
directly to your battery with a 10A inline fuse.  When you want to use them
simply wrap them around each grip (they secure with big patches of velcro)
and plug them in.  I got the set with a on/off switch as part of the kit -
this is optional.

Cost: $37US without on/off switch
            $46US with on/off switch

Pros:

- can be switched from bike to bike as long as a plug is wired on all your
bikes
- install of wiring initially takes 10mins
- install for use takes 1min
- they get warm fast and heat both hands equally
- can be removed totally in the summer or when not needed

Cons:

- they can slip on throttle grip requiring you to reposition them or squeeze
throttle hard to stop movement (this can be minimized by putting them on
very tightly on the throttle grip)
- they make the grip quite thick, which may be a problem for people with
small hands
- when installed you have a lot of wire draped over your bike, can get
caught in things (not really a safety issue, more just aesthetics and
convenience)
- cheesy on/off switch (looks like it came off your bedside table lamp)
- not cheap

Kimpex Grip Heaters:

I just installed these so I don't have much experience with these, but here
is what I do know.  This kit comes with two adhesive heater pads, a toggle
switch, some wire with a resistor (for hi/lo heat) and bad instructions.

Installation:

1.    remove your existing grips (I just cut the stock grips off and
replaced with Pro Grip Gel Grips)
2.    clean any glue or residue off
3.    on my throttle grip tube there were plastic ridges which mated with
indentations in the stock grips, the adhesive heater pad would not stick to
this so I dremeled them off and smoothed out the tube.
4.    stick on heater pads so that wires are towards centre of bike,
position them so they warm your hands when riding and leave any gap in the
heating element towards the rear where you won't have your hands - keep in
mind on the throttle side your hand will be in a different position when
applying throttle than when just sitting on the bike so position the heating
element accordingly
5.    install new or old grips - use soap and water, glue will become soft
when you heat up your grips and may cause them to slip - take care not to
damage the heating pad when you slide the grips over them
6.    decide on where you want your on/off switch - I did not use the
resistor or wiring provided.  The resistor allows for a low heat setting,
but since this setup does not really reduce power consumption it just burns
of some power on the resistor rather than the heating element (just another
resistor) I decided not to bother.
7.    wire directly to your battery and use an inline fuse (not provided) -
on the throttle grip leave enough slack wire to allow full throttle movement
and allow enough slack to account for turning bars from side to side
8.    test out and hopefully enjoy nice warm grips

Total install time 4hrs - most of which was deciding on how and where to
route the wiring - probably 1hr of actual work

Pros:

- cheap $22CDN/$15US
- grips get very warm
- wiring can be put out of sight and out of harms way
- difficult to damage and not obvious to your buddies so they won't bitch
about you having warm hands
- always on your bike (you can forget the wrap on grip heaters - I have)

Cons:

- throttle grip gets warmer than clutch side ( the clutch side rests
directly on the metal bar which acts like a heat sink cooling that side, on
the throttle side the heating element is sandwiched between the plastic
throttle tube and the rubber grip insulating it and providing more heat to
your hand.)
- a pain in the ass to install - so don't plan on doing this on the morning
of the big trip to Alaska
- will have to be replaced if you ever want to change bars and can't be
removed easily and installed on another bike

Conclusions:

After putting the Kimpex heaters on the GS500 I will definitely be using
them on the KLR.  The installation is a pain, but nothing a six-pack and
some tunes can't cure.  Once they are on the performance is similar to the
velcro on grips and they are much easier to use.  With the price difference
you can buy a set of Kimpex heaters, a six pack of beer and a new CD for the
cost of the Aerostich units.

I took some digital pics of the install process if you want them holler.

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "John B. Hillstrom" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) searching the archives
Date: 24 Mar 1999 12:28:29 -0800 (PST)

Rather than ask all those questions again, how can I *search* the archives for
this list?

Happy owner of a *new* '92 (that's an A5, A6, what?) w/ 13K, and looking to do
all the standard hop-ups asap.

Thanks,
-John

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) searching the archives
Date: 24 Mar 1999 13:32:56 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>Rather than ask all those questions again, how can I *search* the archives
for
>this list?
>
>Happy owner of a *new* '92 (that's an A5, A6, what?) w/ 13K, and looking to
do
>all the standard hop-ups asap.


John,

Forget the archives.  Just send your credit card number to Fred Hink and
tell him send me the KLR650 standard load.  =)

If you are not that trusting you can find the archive search engine at :
http://www.dualsport.org/

just click on the green Kawi 650 logo and then look for the big blue 24pt
font SEARCH link.

Cheers,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Mobil semi-synthetic
Date: 24 Mar 1999 13:15:09 -0800

From the transalp list:

Cheers,

Vik

-----Original Message-----


>On Mobil oil,etc...
>I am good friends with my Honda dealer. He and I often take trips together
>and he shares a lot of interesting tips and information with me from time
to
>time. Two years ago, we stopped by the large regional parts distribution
>center for Honda. They claim to turn over 30 million in inventory in 30
>days!
>I inquired about the oils, coolant, sealants, etc... They told us that
Honda
>(in the US,anyway) farms-out their chemicals to different suppliers...that
>is...another company does their manufacturing and packing and distribution.
>My Honda dealer had told me that Valvoline at one time made their engine
>oils.
>Now, it seems, that Mobil is providing their oils. He didn't differentiate
>between Honda's mineral based oil and their semi-synthetic.  Food for
>thought, I guess.
>
>I've always run either the Honda GN-4 mineral oil in my Transalps and My
>Pacific Coast. I DID run their HP-4 synthetic blend in my air-cooled 1991
>and 1993 CB750 fours.  Always one to change the oil regularly, I've never
>had an oil related issue with any of my motorcycles.
>On a side note: Long ago, I bought an aftermarket oil filter from an
>independant motorcycle store. When I got home, i discovered metal filings
in
>the threads where the filter spins on to the engine's oil pipe. Not just
one
>or two flecks, either. So, I went back and exchanged it. Same deal. BEWARE
>non-Honda filters. :-(
>
>-eddie
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Buying new
Date: 24 Mar 1999 14:50:59 +0000

Howdy Jeff,

Have you tried Delano (Motor sports I think or
Harley-Buell-Trumph-Kawasaki).  They seem to a bit better than Leo's.
I bought mine at Rice Lake Motor sports $4,700 out the door but only
half setup.  If you do buy new check the forks (all the up in the
triple clamp) and the battery vent hose before you drive off the lot.
Any trouble or damage caused by these IS NOT covered under the
Kawasaki warranty.

PS you just missed the Kawasaki sale at Leo's last weekend.  I'm not
sure they had any KLR's but they had the new and improved ZG1000!?!?!
The Concours since when?

Good Luck.

Jeff Smith  Barnes, WI
'71 A-HD Sprint 350; '97 Kawasaki KLR650 (King o'La Road)
"Beware the dirt bike ... Ground shaking dirt bike" TMBG



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated vests.and Grips
Date: 24 Mar 1999 13:50:34 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>Now you've opened a can of worms Kurt!  Just when the oil additives were
>dying off...lol...=)
>
>As you know I have run my aerostich vest and electric grips on my KLR with
>no problems (this is generally at highway speeds).  I am just about to do
>some rewiring of my KLR (as I just finished on my GS500) and have some
ideas
>for you Kurt.


I thought of a couple more things Kurt,

You may want to consider the solar panel as a recharger for your pamtop/cell
phone on longer trips and maybe just ride with it charging all day.

With regards to my mini-review of the KImpex and aerostich grip heaters -
both come with non-weatherproof switches.  You can't weatherproof the
aerostich rotary switch, but you can buy a rubber bootie for the Kimpex
toggle switch which will make it water resistant.

Cheers,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) searching the archives
Date: 24 Mar 1999 14:25:13 -0700



>Rather than ask all those questions again, how can I *search* the archives for
>this list?
>
>Happy owner of a *new* '92 (that's an A5, A6, what?) w/ 13K, and looking to do
>all the standard hop-ups asap.


Unless you are a masochist this is the least painful access to the archives:


http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650


Hey Fred!...we've got a live one coming your way...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Removing a link on a chain
Date: 24 Mar 1999 16:43:53 -0500

Never had to remove a chain before but a file or a chainbreaker should do
it.  Keep the extra links you remove in your toolbox incase you kink your
chain.
Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----


 Is a file
>good enough? I'm not really sure how to go about it at the moment. Any
>help would be much appreciated.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Yus
>
>--
>Yusseri Yusoff / [e-mail]
>http://www.ee.surrey.ac.uk/showstaff?Yusoff
>Centre for Vision, Speech and Signal Processing
>University of Surrey
>Guildford GU2 5XH
>---------------------------
>After a year in therapy, my psychiatrist said to me,
>               "Maybe life isn't for everyone."
>                                               - Larry Brown
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR on its side...
Date: 24 Mar 1999 16:47:22 -0500

Leaking gas isn't a problem, I could use a gasproof bag along with the
gascap...won't vent but it will work well enough if the need arises to bury
my bike...don't ask :)

-----Original Message-----


>I do know from attempting to follow my friend on his RM through some tight
>power-line trails, that the KLR will leak gas from the gas cap when on its
side,
>and when inverted (wish I had some pictures).
>
>
>-Matt Duftler
>Tarrytown, NY
>A9
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Touratech Motorcycle Computers
Date: 24 Mar 1999 15:17:33 -0800

I was looking through the Evil Book of Temptation today....no not Fred's KLR
parts page, the 1999 Touratech catalogue!

And was curious about the motorcycle computers they show on page 18,
IMO-100R & IMO-100R300.  They display tachometer, speed, GPS data and just
about anything else it seems.  I couldn't tell from the catalogue how the
computer got the data.  A UK webpage shows a GSX-R that had all its
instruments removed and replaced by this computer.  I was wondering what
besides the computer I would need to buy to do something similar on the KLR
and how much work it would be.  Anyone have any idea?

Cheers,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Buying new
Date: 24 Mar 1999 15:57:04 -0700

    Call Jesse the Body/Mind. Price sounds high; he should hear about
this!! Bogdan

    > I live in Minneapolis, the local dealers are quoting around $5000
out the
    > door for a '99. Am I getting robbed or what? Should I look
elsewhere?
    >
    > Jeff Bixby
    > Automation Instructor
    > Dunwoody MMLC
    >
    > ----------
    > From:     Rob Heywood[SMTP:[e-mail]]
    > Sent:     Wednesday, March 24, 1999 1:00 PM
    > To:     Bixby, Jeff
    > Subject:     Re: (klr650) New Guy!
    >
    > Hey Jeff,
    >
    > After much study, I bought a KLR (99). Just got it home yesterday,
in
    > fact, two
    > words: LOVE IT!!!
    >
    > There are NO down sides to the KLR. From what other owners say
about its
    > longevity and reliability, the future of mine looks bright. I paid
$4400
    > for
    > mine (new).
    >
    > Good Luck!!
    >
    >



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Heated vests...
Date: 24 Mar 1999 16:00:55 -0700

    I've never had any trouble running a Widder vest + gloves; Others
have reported the same.  Bogdan


    But the biggee
    (even before auxillary lights) is a heated vest. I'd like to think I
could work a
    Gerbing thin liner with sleeves but I don't think the system will
handle it. I think
    Widder has one rated at 35 Watts, the Unobtainium is rated at 45...



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated vests...
Date: 24 Mar 1999 18:05:30 EST

Also here in Denver and rode through the winter. All I can say is "Ditto!!"
I've never had any trouble running a Widder vest + gloves.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dale Borgeson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated vests...
Date: 24 Mar 1999 17:16:31 -0600 (CST)

> Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 12:15:14 -0700
> From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
> So, the question, any KLR owners with specific recommendations on heated
> vests that've

I've run a Widder Vest (44W I think) and gloves (24W) for years with no
problems. In fact I just ran it that way yesterday as it was about 37 Deg
F. I do try to keep the RPM's up but other than that I have not had a lick
of trouble, city or highway.

Cheers
--
Dale Borgeson    [e-mail]    Minneapolis, MN U.S.A.
"Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated vests...
Date: 24 Mar 1999 18:28:55 EST

In a message dated 3/24/99 11:16:16 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

> I spent a few hours combing the archives yesterday for charging systems etc.
> I cam
>  across Dale Borgeson's Hall of Fame Post on the KLR electric system. I
> recommend it
>  highly. Now, the net result of my search is that the KLR does not have much
> capacity
>  for additional accessories and it would be a mistake to think I could add
> more than 6
>  amps...and maybe 55-60 watts. Am I right so far?
I've added 40 watts by running the 100 watt highbeam so it would seem that the
35 watts for an electric vest would be no problem if you have stock lighting
and no other extra electrical load.  I have run at night with the 100 watt
beam for long periods and no charging difficulties.
Kurt Grife



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Motoport Canyon Jacket
Date: 24 Mar 1999 18:47:08 EST

<< Does anyone know of a retailer that handles Motoport gear or do I have to
 buy direct from Motoport?

 Thanks
 Bryce 98 KLR >>

Bryce,
I just bought a Canyon jacket directly from Motoport at Daytona Bike Week.
Gino is correct, that Comp. Access. also carries their stuff.  Their ph.
number is 800-543-5141.  Their catalog had a price of $239 plus shipping and
handling.  Motoport sold it to me for $229 + 6% Florida sales tax.  Their
direct ph. # is 800-777-6499.  I've had the jacket for about 3 weeks.  I've
ridden in 38 F weather with the zip in liner and it was fine.  I've ridden in
85 F without the liner and it was fine with the under arm vents open and air
running up the sleeves.  I had a chance to try on all of the Motoport jackets,
the Firstgear Kilamanjaro and Kenya jackets, the Joe Rocket jackets, and some
by Fieldshear.  I liked the Canyon the best by far considering the price, fit
and features.
Greg, A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated vests...
Date: 24 Mar 1999 16:30:42 -0800


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>In a message dated 3/24/99 11:16:16 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>I've added 40 watts by running the 100 watt highbeam so it would seem that
the
>35 watts for an electric vest would be no problem if you have stock
lighting
>and no other extra electrical load.  I have run at night with the 100 watt
>beam for long periods and no charging difficulties.


I am running a 80W low beam, vest and grips without troubles.

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Linus <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) UNSUBSCRIBE klr650
Date: 25 Mar 1999 08:17:35 +0800

UNSUBSCRIBE klr650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Clay <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated vests...
Date: 24 Mar 1999 19:11:36 -0600 (CST)

>So, the question, any KLR owners with specific recommendations on heated
>vests that've
>worked...Vik..I have your testimony..but go ahead and add if you think of
>something...
>
>Kurt

Hi Kurt,

    I used an Eclipse vest for years with no problems. I'd still be
using it if I hadn't left it in California.  I replaced it with the
Aerostich vest which I just love. It's really compact and stores in its own
pocket, which is really nice when you're counting every square inch of
luggage space on your KLR.
I've never had any vest-related problems with the charging system.

Tom Clay
Winnipeg MB






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Andes tour
Date: 24 Mar 1999 17:37:58 PST

I've signed up for the PVMT Andes tour this September, led by Helge
Pedersen.  Any others on this list from the Northern Calif area
going?  I'm looking to collaborate (and reduce costs) in getting
the bike to Houston for shipping to Chili.
Marick
PS: If you are interested and haven't yet signed up, you should do so quickly.
i was told there was only 1-2 slots left when I called last week.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Andes tour
Date: 24 Mar 1999 21:36:15 EST

Marick, have a great time. Im riding to Ushuaia and back after riding to
Prudhoe this August, Maybe we'll see you in Peru or Equador or Chile? We're
going to camp out a day or so at Machu Pichu. we're looking at about 31,000
miles so were bound to run into you Pancho Tour guys. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bruce  Hedquist" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated vests...
Date: 24 Mar 1999 20:36:05 -0700



>>>I'd like to think I could work a
>Gerbing thin liner with sleeves but I don't think the system will handle
it.
>I think
>Widder has one rated at 35 Watts, the Unobtainium is rated at 45...<<
>

Kurt: I am using the Gerbing, thin, with sleeves. I believe it draws 70-75
watts.(?)  I also purchased the thermostat.  So far so good.  However, I
fing with the thermostat set at about 1/2 way the heat is more than
sufficient.  Consequently I don't think the draw is excessive.
Additionally, most of my cold weather riding has been done on the highway at
4, 000rpm plus.

The only thing I have noticed is that even after a long ride, by Battery
Tender always goes on charge for about 15 minutes before I get the green
light.  The interesting thing is, the same thing happens when I use the
liner on my Concours.  Maybe it is just the way the Battery Tender works.
Not sure.

On another note, do you have any more info on the Moab ride in April?
When are people arriving, where staying, etc.  Am hoping to be able to make
this since it is just a long weekend.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dreas Nielsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650)  [NKLR] blood in a parking lot
Date: 24 Mar 1999 20:08:51 -0800

> Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 17:43:46 -0500
> From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
> Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] blood in a parking lot
>
> Well listers, I bloodied my left forearm and knee today!  I also bruised
> my right thumb (leather gloves saved my hands.)  My estimated speed was
> 10 mph. TEN!
<snip>
> I took a left turn too fast for the conditions of the road and my 50/50
> pirelli tire (10 mph was too fast).  Going down was really surprising to
> me.  Before I knew it I was down.

I've only gone down once, and that was in the middle of an icy
intersection--I knew it was icy, and I was probably moving at even less than
10 mph.  Even so, I was down before I knew what was happening.  When I read
other peoples' descriptions of their crashes in which they explain how they
managed to lift their leg, lean their body, etc., etc., I feel like
laughing.  On the other hand, maybe if I crashed more, I'd grow to better
appreciate and savor that special, brief time.

Dreas Nielsen
Issaquah, WA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] Honda's farming practices
Date: 24 Mar 1999 23:08:07 -0500

Vik copied to us (from "NKLR Mobil semi-synthetic"):
>I inquired about the oils, coolant, sealants, etc... They told us that
Honda
>(in the US,anyway) farms-out their chemicals to different suppliers...that
>is...another company does their manufacturing and packing and distribution.

This is so with their Cycle Wash product. I used S100 for a year before
some parts counter GIANT said, "hey, that stuff is the same as the Honda
wash 'cept its $4.00 more 'spensive." I looked at the bottles and sure
enuff, it was the same stuff-even says "from the makers of S100". The
Honda stuff was $8, S100 was $12 (ouch! I know). I don't wash a bike now
unless I have the stuff on hand 'cause I have better things to do with
the hour or so I save by usin the S100/Honda cycle wash. A 32 oz bottle
lasts me nearly 6 months. It eats thru anything and doesn't kill those
delicate rubber parts over time. Now if they would just sell the S100
corrosion protection spray for less than $11 a can....

Jake



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated vests...NKLR April Rally
Date: 24 Apr 1999 21:40:59 -0600

|
|On another note, do you have any more info on the Moab ride in April?
|When are people arriving, where staying, etc.  Am hoping to be able to make
|this since it is just a long weekend.


I'll add you to the mailing list, because its informal it is hard to say but it is safe to say
that most are shooting for Thursday or Friday...I'll be there by Wednesday if all goes well.
We're staying at Canyonlands because they have RV, campsites, cabins, and motel next door at
Red Stone...make your reservations early because of the Car Show...

Thanks for the info on the vest...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) First Service (NKLR)
Date: 24 Mar 1999 21:05:13 -0800

Hello List !

So tonight I picked my Lucky 13 up from the shop after its first (500m)
service. For the grand total of $174.68 (US) the Kawi shop right down the
street performed the required maintenance recommended by Kawasaki
Corp.((Maybe)).

The itemized invoice that was handed back to me listed the routine checks I
expected, ie. brakes, oil filter and change, lube and adj of chain, tire
pressure check (thanx guys, didn't know quite how to do it myself), coolant
level, instruments and lights, oil leak check, valve clearances. This was
all well and good, and I've been happy with the service, attitude, and
knowledge displayed by the folks at this particular shop. The questions I
have involve their compression test and charging system test.

The bike's compression was tested at 80psi, which they said was good as the
bike has a built in decompressor... say what? Does this figure tell me
anything? I really haven't checked out the shop manual in detail and can't
say that this makes a whole lot of sense. Shouldn't a compression test
reflect an accurate reading? Should I tear out the few hairs left on my
head, or get a woody?

The charging test was recorded as being 14.3 DCV, which they figured to be,
"good". Is this good? The only experience I've had with my bike's batteries
is to add water, clean the contacts, charge, and toss if all of the above
fails.(I think I had to mess with the charging system once as a kid but my
late teen years musta killed those memory brain cells)

As I had initially spoken with the shop manager regarding all the work I
expected to happen on my bike I was a tad disappointed. I was VERY happy
when I asked if he thought I should have the valve clearances checked and he
said, "ya gotta check the valve clearances on the big singles, its a must
do!"  ----- I smeared a bit of mud on both the magneto cover caps and it
appears they haven't been touched. Unfortunately I live in Seattle and by
the time I arrived at the shop it had been in the rain for a good hour or
so. I could be so wrong about this but the man also told me that the
balancer chain adjustment didn't usually need adjusting after so few miles.
He did say it was checked, but can you check just check it? Or do you just
do it?

I kinda feel like going over my bike this weekend and knowing for sure, I
don't feel so great about what may or may not have been looked at on my
bike.

I apologize for this huge mailing, but would appreciate any/all advice and
wisdom on the matter.

Rik--- Lucky 13

[Trying to get time off for Moab. Use to live in Summit County Colorado and
would LOVE to get back to that country. Great memories of mountain biking on
slick rock!!]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Service (NKLR)
Date: 24 Mar 1999 22:19:26 -0800


-----Original Message-----



>The charging test was recorded as being 14.3 DCV, which they figured to be,
>"good". Is this good? The only experience I've had with my bike's batteries
>is to add water, clean the contacts, charge, and toss if all of the above
>fails.(I think I had to mess with the charging system once as a kid but my
>late teen years musta killed those memory brain cells)


I know nothing about charging systems, but this doesn't sound like a useful
test.  If I was going to test a charging system I would put a load on it and
see how much current I could generate at a given voltage which gives power.
A no load voltage doesn't mean sh*t - just like a deas battery can read
12-13V until you try and start your bike and then (with a load) drops to 3V.

>As I had initially spoken with the shop manager regarding all the work I
>expected to happen on my bike I was a tad disappointed. I was VERY happy
>when I asked if he thought I should have the valve clearances checked and
he
>said, "ya gotta check the valve clearances on the big singles, its a must
>do!"  ----- I smeared a bit of mud on both the magneto cover caps and it
>appears they haven't been touched. Unfortunately I live in Seattle and by
>the time I arrived at the shop it had been in the rain for a good hour or
>so


I think that almost no dealers actually check the valves. They figure:

1) they don't need to be checked after 500 mile
2) you can't tell if they did it or not (if you could you'd have done it
yourself)
3) its  a lot of work and makes them much more money to save that labour
4) if you have trouble it will be more work for them paid for by you (if its
after the warranty) or Kawi (if its under warranty)

If you don't mind pissing them off tell them about the muda nd say you don't
believe they checked the valves and you are taking it to another Kawi dealer
 to have checked, etc...  see if they flinch - can't hurt unless they are
the only game in town.

.>I could be so wrong about this but the man also told me that the
>balancer chain adjustment didn't usually need adjusting after so few miles.
>He did say it was checked, but can you check just check it? Or do you just
>do it?

Well he is either an idiot or a liar.  You can't check the tension and the
adjustment procedure takes 5mins if you spend 4mins drinking coffee.  The
valve adjustment is a rip off, but this comment is truly scary!

Don't feel too bad.  You are not the first and won't be the last to pay big
bucks for a minor check on your bike at the first service.  I looked at my
GS500's first service check list and except for the valve clearance I could
do all the work my self and I and a mechanical moron.

Cheers,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Service (NKLR)
Date: 24 Mar 1999 22:44:43 -0700


|I kinda feel like going over my bike this weekend and knowing for sure, I
|don't feel so great about what may or may not have been looked at on my
|bike.


This is the kind of thing we've been chatting about...for close to $200 should a person have to
suffer wondering if the work was done well? If they checked the valve clearances and know
anything about the shim and bucket habits (change in the first 6,000 miles) wouldn't they like
to tell you what the clearances were so you could monitor the change? What shims did they
replace?

This is why so many of us have given up and only do the work ourselves...

Balancer chain adjustment...let's start with that. You can do it yourself tomorrow morning...it
is easy and fast. Take an 8mm box wrench...crouch down by the bike on the left side...way down
and forward on the side but just under the lip of the side of the case is a black rubber
plug...pop this off...take the 8 mm and loosen the nut..counterclockwise 3 full turns...this is
24... 1/8 turns for me because it is hard to get much of a swing with my Bash Plate...now take
a rubber mallet or rubber covered screwdriver and tap on the side of the case a few times...now
tighten the nut...and here is the only part that can go wrong...don't overtighten...just snug
it up.

Valve check? easy....do it this weekend and have the joy of getting to know your bike and
overcoming any anxieties you may have.

Pull the side covers, pull the seat, pull the radiator shrouds, pull the tank (2 hoses on the
rear bottom, a vacuum hose at the petcock, and the fuel line.

Now, loosen the fan and zip tie it up and away disconnect the radiator fan sensor ...remove the
upper rear engine bracket...remove the spark plug wire and coil wire...and move it aside..move
the wire to the heat sensor next to the plug...move any other wires in the way...loosen the
valve cover nuts...and remove the nuts...getting the cover off is like one of those chinese
finger torture things...but it will come up and out to the left of the engine...don't hesitate
to press against the coolant hose or remove it...now pull the two plugs on the side of the
case...the ones you marked...the top one is the timing marks...the bottom the crank nut that
you rotate...rotate the engine counterclockwise until the intakes come up and now get a
flashlight and look for the timing marks...you want the third mark "T" and line it up on the
notch above the mark...Now get your feeler gauges and check the clearances...intake .004-.008
exhausts .006-.010...invest in a torque wrench...by a 3/8 drive with a 1/4 adapter...It sounds
worse than it is...write if you need any help...the full procedure is here...

http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page27.html

I've checked my valves at 750 and had at least 2 tight valves, checked them at 3,500 and had 2
more tight...

Sorry for your experience,

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Service (NKLR)
Date: 25 Mar 1999 02:42:07 -0800



----------
> Hello List !
>
> So tonight I picked my Lucky 13 up from the shop after its first (500m)
> service. For the grand total of $174.68 (US) the Kawi shop right down the
> street performed the required maintenance recommended by Kawasaki
> Corp.((Maybe)).
>
> The itemized invoice that was handed back to me listed the routine checks
I
> expected, ie. brakes, oil filter and change, lube and adj of chain, tire
> pressure check (thanx guys, didn't know quite how to do it myself),
coolant
> level, instruments and lights, oil leak check, valve clearances.

I've heard of people paying that much and the dealers still telling them
straight out that they didn't check the valves.  If that is the case, it
does seem pretty silly to pay that much money for stuff that just about
anybody can do themselves (excluding the valve check of course). Geez, I
even have a Harley riding lawyer friend who can do most of this himself :).
 I wonder if a dealership can actually refuse to do warranty work because
the tire pressure or chain tension wasn't checked by a  "professional".  It
would almost seem plausible to just skip the whole 500mi service, and just
say instead that you want the valves checked, nothing else.  And then
request, like Kurt said, that they record the clearances.  Since they will
probably charge you for new shims (even though they probably grab them from
their "used" stash) one should also ask for your old shims back.

This approach would put more pressure on the dealer to actually do
something if a valve check is the only thing you requested.  I would think
this would make it harder for them to cheat you.  Otherwise, if you think
that they skipped the valve check on the 500mi service, they could still
come back and say that they did that whole impressive looking list of bogus
checks.  Well, the checks aren't bogus, but charging $175 for them is.  I
mean, seriously, how much time and expertice does an "oil leak check" take?
 How can these guys bill for this?

I've grown to feel that if you have the time and patience, you should do as
much of the maintainance on your bike yourself.  At least changing the oil,
chain tension, and other simple checks. Mechanical ability probably isn't
as important if your halfway intelligent, because you end up developing it
as you go.  At least to me, knowing that I am capable of keeping my
motorcycle running and in good shape is a huge part of my motorcycling
experience.  I would even say that sometimes knowing this is almost as
rewarding as the riding itself.

Anyway...I'm off the soapbox now
Carlos A5 21,800mi



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) RE: Chain Break {NKLR}
Date: 25 Mar 1999 06:33:27 -0500

>>>>
Never had to remove a chain before but a file or a chainbreaker should do
it.  Keep the extra links you remove in your toolbox incase you kink your
chain.
<<<<

I learn long ago in my 3HP Briggs and Stratton Mini bike days that if you are
going to prepare for a chain break a extra master link is not enough.  Most
likely you will need TWO master links, a spare link, and a spare 1/2 link.
Remember, you cannot have two masterlinks connected next to each other.

Pat (who carries no spare chain parts for his KLR)
Austin, Texas
1997 KLR650 w/11.3K miles




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Service (NKLR)
Date: 25 Mar 1999 04:47:21 -0700


>request, like Kurt said, that they record the clearances.  Since they will
>probably charge you for new shims (even though they probably grab them from
>their "used" stash) one should also ask for your old shims back.


Good point...

>I've grown to feel that if you have the time and patience, you should do as
>much of the maintainance on your bike yourself.  At least changing the oil,
>chain tension, and other simple checks. Mechanical ability probably isn't
>as important if your halfway intelligent, because you end up developing it
>as you go.  At least to me, knowing that I am capable of keeping my
>motorcycle running and in good shape is a huge part of my motorcycling
>experience.  I would even say that sometimes knowing this is almost as
>rewarding as the riding itself.


Very well said Carlos...this is the process that I call "loving it up" it can even
happen when you wash your bike..when you do your own work...when you even wash your
bike...you can "live in the present" with your eyes and ears and touch and discover
where you are on the wear cycle...you can "look" at the chain sprockets..."look" and
"feel" for loose or missing bolts and nuts..."look" for things rubbing that shouldn't
be...done right it is refreshing because you are "being" what you are "doing"...

So, to give an example, my recent periodic maintenance and final bike washing and
cleaning revealed:

1. a badly frayed clutch cable...this a dealer "might" have caught...but I doubt they
could have told me why..that was discovered in the process of clipping the frayed
edges and readjusting (while waiting for the two [yes, two, I always buy two of any
part that wears out or fails prematurely on my bike...so I have the new replacement
and a spare])...the moose handguard had caused me to angle the cable in a strange way
causing excess wear on that part of the cable..the solution was to follow Frank's
advice and do all the adjusting at the engine end of the cable...

2. a missing front fender mounting bolt...

3. some rubber grommets on the bike starting to show severe cracking after only 12
months...

4. a missing front fairing screw..

5. a rear tire that will need to be replaced in the next 1,000 miles...

6. numerous small nicks that are gathering rust...(repaired with hammerite)

Think of this way, your bike is self-destructing with each mile. Good maintenance
stretches the self-destruction for as many miles as possible...In this way, you can
monitor the wear and tear deciding what is critical, what an be postponed, what is in
process...

Not even the best of dealers can give you the satisfaction of knowing these wear
cycles...

Enough, Yeeesh talk about soapbox,

Kurt (showing a lot of wear and tear these days himself)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric & Jill Dietiker <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Removing a link on a chain
Date: 25 Mar 1999 04:13:04 -0800

Life is short - have the shop cut it to the proper length (for free, natch).
I have to do this every time I purchase a chain.

Eric.
-----Original Message-----


>
>List,
>
>Thanks for the recent advice about the type of chain to use for the bike.
>Anyhow, I've gone and bought a EK X-ring. The thing was that the shop only
>had a chain with 110 links on it. Since it was the same price as a 106, I
>took it. So, how does one go about grinding off the extra links? Is a file
>good enough? I'm not really sure how to go about it at the moment. Any
>help would be much appreciated.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Yus
>
>--
>Yusseri Yusoff / [e-mail]
>http://www.ee.surrey.ac.uk/showstaff?Yusoff
>Centre for Vision, Speech and Signal Processing
>University of Surrey
>Guildford GU2 5XH
>---------------------------
>After a year in therapy, my psychiatrist said to me,
>               "Maybe life isn't for everyone."
>                                               - Larry Brown
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) [NKLR] blood in a parking lot
Date: 24 Mar 1999 10:44:28 -0500

>I am slightly hurt because I was wearing shorts and a t-shirt.  I am
>going to order the motoport ultra II jacket and pants as soon I as can
>possibly afford them and wear them everytime I ride the bike.  I always


You got off with a warning ol buddy, consider yourself really really lucky!
You cannot afford to not wear the gear you are about to buy.  It is
mandatory equipment far before pipes, jets, gel pads, brake lines or
whatever.  In fact, you should not allow yourself to ride without it.  You
went down at ten mph.  Think of the mess at 40, or 50, or whatever mph!
I've got no problem mothering you, cause I've been there <DEFINITELY NOT
boasting or proud>.   And for those who think I'm on a soap box, you aint
been there yet.  Serious business boys & girls, let's be safe.
BG






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bixby, Jeff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Valve Adjust
Date: 25 Mar 1999 07:33:42 -0600

As  far as the valve train goes, are these shims under the bucket or over?
Is there a special tool needed for shim removal? Does anyone have the part #
for the valve adjustment tool? I figure I should order this tool as well as
a service manual when I pick up my A13! Anything else I should have right
away? I plan on doing the initial service myself as I have been wrenching on
roadrace bikes as well as my personal rides for quite a few years now.....
Thoughts, comments?

I have heard that adjustment interval is 500 miles, is this correct?

TIA for any responses!


Jeff Bixby
Automation Instructor
Dunwoody MMLC



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Valve Adjust
Date: 25 Mar 1999 06:52:57 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>As  far as the valve train goes, are these shims under the bucket or over?

Over

>Is there a special tool needed for shim removal?

I use a small screw driver and a magnet.  The cups have a small notch that
you can rotate towards you to help remove the shims.  You will have to
remove or loosen the cams to get at the shims.

>Does anyone have the part # for the valve adjustment tool?

No such animal.

> I figure I should order this tool as well as
>a service manual when I pick up my A13! Anything else I should have right
>away? I plan on doing the initial service myself as I have been wrenching
on
>roadrace bikes as well as my personal rides for quite a few years now.....
>Thoughts, comments?

The tool doesn't exist for the KLR.  I have some of the manuals in stock and
the shims.  Read the article in the DSN about doing your valve adjustment.
The valve adjustment is the easy part getting to the shims is what will take
the most time.

>I have heard that adjustment interval is 500 miles, is this correct?

According to the service manual, the original valve adjustment should be
done around 800 km but thereafter you can go 5000 km between checks.

Good luck and have fun.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


>
>TIA for any responses!
>
>
>Jeff Bixby
>Automation Instructor
>Dunwoody MMLC
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: [Fwd: What about KTM?]
Date: 25 Mar 1999 07:10:04 -0700

I stumbled on this list and home page a while ago.  I looked at the KLR but
> actually lust for an Africa Twin (which I can't import).  I have been
> looking at the KTM Adventure and a second choice - seems to be high
quality
> throughout.
>
> My question - has DSN ever looked at the Adventure?  I don't see anything
in
> the archives.  Happy to subscribe if I get more than KLR info but don't
feel
> the need to do the KLR if that's all there is.

THE FOLLOWING IS MY OPINION ONLY!

Shawn, I did a review of the first KTM Adventure (low pipe model) about a
year ago and I did a review of the KTM 640 LC4 a couple of issues back.
Additionally, I was very close to purchasing an Adventure R (has the new LC4
640 motor).  I liked both bikes.  They have top shelf components, excellent
engineering and are the best at what they are designed to do. I have a
KLR650 and to me, the KTM does not provide the value I look for in a bike. I
have not want, need or desire to wait weeks and months for parts either.
Many will dispute the parts availability issue, but the reality is that it
exists and has kept many KTM riders from enjoying riding for long periods of
time.  The KTM's are also very tall with no easy way to lower them which
poses a problem for those of us with short inseams. If you want one of the
best dual sport adventure bikes in the world, the problems are a small price
to pay; the KTM is the bike for you.


Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Valve Adjust
Date: 25 Mar 1999 09:11:50 -0500

There are tools out there to depress the bucket so that you can remove the
shims without taking the cams out. If anyone has such a tool for the KLR or
KLX, can you post some info here? thanks

>As  far as the valve train goes, are these shims under the bucket or over?

Over

>Is there a special tool needed for shim removal?

I use a small screw driver and a magnet.  The cups have a small notch that
you can rotate towards you to help remove the shims.  You will have to
remove or loosen the cams to get at the shims.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Valve Adjust
Date: 25 Mar 1999 07:27:03 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>There are tools out there to depress the bucket so that you can remove the
>shims without taking the cams out. If anyone has such a tool for the KLR or
>KLX, can you post some info here? thanks


I have the tools but I am not sure the cams and head are set up for these to
work.  Anyone want to bring me their KLR so we can test them out?
Preferably not at the Rally!  ;<)

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Non-member submission from [Bill Haycock <[e-mail]>]
Date: 25 Mar 1999 08:44:49 -0700

>I have had a report that the first page on the Dual Sport Web Page does
>not look right!  Can a few of you go to:
>
>http://www.dualsport.org   and tell me if the "Welcome" logo looks ok?
>"Welcome" should be to the upper left of the words "Dual Sport News"
>
>Thanks and please reply to my email address - I'm not on the LIST
>yet-just returned from Mexico and trying to get caught up on the Web
>Page before I jump back into the LIST.
>
>Bill
>WebMaster - Dual Sport News
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Non-member submission from [Bill Haycock <[e-mail]>]
Date: 25 Mar 1999 08:45:35 -0700


>To: Gino Pokluda <[e-mail]>, KLR LIST <[e-mail]>,
>        Shawn Bryan <[e-mail]>
>Subject: Re: [Fwd: What about KTM?]
>References: <[e-mail]>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>Shawn,
>
>I'm sending your question to the KLR LIST and Gino, Editor of DSN, I'm sure you
>will get some replies.
>
>Bill
>
>
>>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Subject: What about KTM?
>> Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 21:46:26 -0500
>> From: "Shawn Bryan" <[e-mail]>
>> To: <[e-mail]>
>>
>> I stumbled on this list and home page a while ago.  I looked at the KLR but
>> actually lust for an Africa Twin (which I can't import).  I have been
>> looking at the KTM Adventure and a second choice - seems to be high quality
>> throughout.
>>
>> My question - has DSN ever looked at the Adventure?  I don't see anything in
>> the archives.  Happy to subscribe if I get more than KLR info but don't feel
>> the need to do the KLR if that's all there is.
>>
>> Thanks for any thoughts of info.  Happy riding.
>>
>> Shawn Bryan
>> VFR750F, Red, AMA, HRCA,
>> [e-mail]
>
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Non-member submission from [Bill Haycock <[e-mail]>]
Date: 25 Mar 1999 08:46:28 -0700


>Am trying to locate 2 new Moose-Metzeler Super Tubes for klr650 rear
>wheel (17 inch). evidently, Metzeler has quit making this size. am a
>rookie at this net stuff-could you pls. pst a "wanted" for this item on
>the classified section?  thanks, bruce redding  602.661.9414
><[e-mail]>
>ps-sent this request to <[e-mail]> but couldn't find
>out if it appeared or was sent anywhere.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Service (NKLR)
Date: 25 Mar 1999 10:42:00 EST

In a message dated 3/24/99 9:29:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

> The charging test was recorded as being 14.3 DCV, which they figured to be,
>  >"good". Is this good? The only experience I've had with my bike's
batteries
>  >is to add water, clean the contacts, charge, and toss if all of the above
>  >fails.(I think I had to mess with the charging system once as a kid but my
>  >late teen years musta killed those memory brain cells)
>
>
>  I know nothing about charging systems, but this doesn't sound like a useful
>  test.

Yes this is a useful test, it indicates that the stator output is good and
that the voltage regulator is doing its job.  Target charge voltage on most
Japanese bikes is 14.3 to 14.8 volts according to all the shop manuals I have
had.  This is not a battery condition test, just a charging system test.
Kurt Grife



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Non-member submission from [Bill Haycock <[e-mail]>]
Date: 25 Mar 1999 08:47:47 -0700


>Subject:
>        KLX650
>   Date:
>        Sun, 21 Mar 1999 21:39:57 -0500
>   From:
>        Ken Adams <[e-mail]>
>     To:
>        [e-mail]
>
>
>
>I am interested in buying a dual-sport MC for a trip to Colorado this
>summer.  I have scoured the internet and cycle magazines for a suitable
>ride.  I found a 1993 KLX650 that is fully equipped to be a dual-sport.
>I had thought KLX was a dirt designation.  Can you give me some history
>on this KLX650.  Apparently Kawa. does make this model anymore.
>
>Thanks,
>Ken Adams
>[e-mail]
>
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fw: Tool List
Date: 25 Mar 1999 09:49:40 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: Fred Hink <[e-mail]>


>Hello Kurt and others,
>
>I'm enjoying this 'Tool list' thread.  Is there a section of the DualSport
>webpage with "rider tool lists"?  Seems like an interesting topic.   Maybe
>it's already there - I'd better go look!
>
>Please consider "TowDowns" as an essential x-country rider's "tool".
>Combination towstrap+tiedowns in one compact package.  I ride a reliable
>motorcycle (knock on wood) but they are great for towing 2-strokes out of
>the forest.   Also I use them a lot for meeting my wife for dinner then I
>toss the bike in her truck and we ride home together.
>
>See it on http://www.cycoactive.com/mc/td1.html
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tom
>
>+------------------------------------+
>|  CycoActive Products             tel [phone]
>|  701 34th Ave             fax [phone]
>|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
>|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
>|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
>+------------------------------------+
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Heated vests...
Date: 25 Mar 1999 12:18:29 -0700

    I've also run this combo for years on 2 bikes. As a BMW buddy (I'm a
highly tolerant guy) says, the gloves extend the ridding season. I can't say
I've had no problems, however. Not battery depletion, but increasing
problems with the wires detaching from the male/female connectors. Could the
wires get more brittle with age? The way the wire to the gloves attaches to
the vest wire seems especially bush league. Has anyone upgraded the
connectors or found some magic way to make them more serviceable? Bogdan,
Whose usually wired whether Widdered up or not.

    I've run a Widder Vest (44W I think) and gloves (24W) for years with
no
    problems.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) First Service (NKLR)
Date: 25 Mar 1999 12:29:44 -0700

    I can't get the adjustment nuts down there to move. There isn't a
lot of room to work & I hate to use too much muscle in an area I haven't
worked in before. Any pointers? BTW Kurt, for a guy that's only 30, you're
quite a moto-philosopher. Bogdan


    the solution was to follow Frank's
    advice and do all the adjusting at the engine end of the cable...



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Valve Adjust
Date: 25 Mar 1999 12:32:52 -0700

    Don't forget to stuff rags into the engine in case that magnet isn't
as strong as you think.  Bogdan

    I use a small screw driver and a magnet.  The cups have a small
notch that
    you can rotate towards you to help remove the shims.  You will have
to
    remove or loosen the cams to get at the shims.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Valve Adjust
Date: 25 Mar 1999 14:33:50 -0500

Oh, I found that out when I dropped the washer off the grommet on top of the
valve cover. It went down to rest right behind the starter clutch. Had to
remove the flywheel and all that stuff to get at it too. :(

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 1999 2:33 PM


    Don't forget to stuff rags into the engine in case that magnet isn't
as strong as you think.  Bogdan

    I use a small screw driver and a magnet.  The cups have a small
notch that
    you can rotate towards you to help remove the shims.  You will have
to
    remove or loosen the cams to get at the shims.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Karl Huebner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) unsubscribe
Date: 25 Mar 1999 14:57:31 -0500

unsubscribe




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR-Now what?...
Date: 25 Mar 1999 12:04:13 PST

Just had a most unpleasant experience with a vendor mentioned in Gino's
tire balancing article.  Their name of the business is Spec II and the
incident came about as a result of an inquiry I was making about their
tire balancer stand.  "Gary" initially described the price and axle
specs of the thing to me, at which point I asked for a final
confirmation regarding it's intended use (i.e., designed specifically
for motorcycle rims).  To this he replied sharply, "Well whattaya think
I've been talking about?!?!"  He then went on to say he couldn't
understand a word I was saying and hung up on me.  I called him back and
explained the overseas connection thing, along with the need to
re-confirm  everything when ordering from so far away.  He then went on
to "apologize," saying he had done a lot of business with overseas
customers, but they had historically been more "informed" than I (hmmm,
an insult phrased in the form of an apology-- interesting...). He then
started to ramble about how things had been hectic lately, and how if he
knew it would come to this 25 years ago he would have zigged instead of
zagged.  At this point his Oprah confessional started to violate my
Midwestern sensibilities, so I hung up on him (sounds like a personal
problem man-- get over it!).

One thing's for sure.  I am still without a wheel balancer (I need some
weights too) :-(

Is there anyone out there who can help me?  Fred, Tom, Tim?  Or does
anybody have the name and number of a business that won't hang up on me
(a price would be nice, too)?

I'm frustrated and pissed...  Not with that guy in particular but with
my whole situation.  I don't know nearly as much as I should know and
I'm stuck overseas in a Third World latin country, where there is no
translation for regular or preventive maintenance.  I can't wait to get
back to the States.  Half my garage will be converted to a bike shop and
I'm going to commit myself to getting smart, no matter how many weekends
I burn in the process.

I feel better now...  Thanks to all of you for letting me vent, and let
me know if I have any other options for purchasing one of those *** ****
things.  Later...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Dumbfounded Hooligan"
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR-Now what?...
Date: 25 Mar 1999 13:28:21 -0700

<<Just had a most unpleasant experience with a vendor mentioned in Gino's
tire balancing article.>>

My fault.  I should have mentioned that he is a little hard to deal with.
When I ordered a Telefix fork brace for my XV920, he said something to the
effect "Why don't you buy a f**king real bike instead of that 80's s**t."  I
informed that I could just buy the brace from M&P if he wanted and then he
straightened up.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First Service (NKLR)
Date: 25 Mar 1999 13:34:44 -0700


>worked in before. Any pointers? BTW Kurt, for a guy that's only 30, you're
>quite a moto-philosopher. Bogdan

Right 30...I dimly remember being 30 once...thanks for the complement...my SO thinks my
emotional age is 12

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Desmond, Richard - TAFB/LASPO2" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR-Now what?...
Date: 25 Mar 1999 14:35:24 -0600

Juan,

I cracked up reading your post about dealing with Gary at Spec II. His phone
demeanor is something of a legend in RD/RZ circles. He's been that way
forever as far as any of us can tell. If you're not ready for it his
brusqueness can really put you off. He's quite knowledgeable and honest
though, you just have to get past his, shall we say, lack of polish.
Consider yourself initiated<g>.

Rich CMRA #352

'99 SV650
'97 900CR
'86 RZ500 (for sale)
'85 RZ350 x 2
'86 XT350 (for sale)
'80 GS1000S
'76 CB400
racing EX's





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Now what?...
Date: 25 Mar 1999 16:22:39 EST

In a message dated 3/25/99 12:14:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

> Just had a most unpleasant experience with a vendor mentioned in Gino's
>  tire balancing article.  Their name of the business is Spec II and the
>  incident came about as a result of an inquiry I was making about their
>  tire balancer stand.  "Gary"
I can confirm that Gary at Spec ll is a little off center.  He has a nice
frame mount fairing for V-65 Sabres that I purchased 3 years ago.  Fortunately
I go near his place of business regularly because I don't think the deal ever
would have gotten done if I hadn't stopped in there in person and "encouraged"
him to get the thing put together for me.  I can imagine that doing business
with him long distance would be very frustrating if not impossible.
Kurt Grife



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: (klr650) First Service (NKLR)
Date: 25 Mar 1999 16:32:21 EST

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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In a message dated 3/25/99 2:36:12 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Right 30...I dimly remember being 30 once...thanks for the complement...my
SO thinks my
 emotional age is 12

 Kurt
  >>

If my SO gave me the age of 12, I'd be happy.  At least I don't have to worry
about going into my second childhood, because I've never left the first.....

MN Ron

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>worked in before. Any pointers? BTW Kurt, for a guy that's only 30, you'r=
e
>quite a moto-philosopher. Bogdan

Right 30...I dimly remember being 30 once...thanks for the complement...my=
 SO
thinks my
emotional age is 12

Kurt




--part0_922397542_boundary--



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Juan Villarreal" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR-Now what?...
Date: 25 Mar 1999 13:40:04 PST

>I cracked up reading your post about dealing with Gary at Spec II. His
phone
>demeanor is something of a legend in RD/RZ circles...

Yeah, but I bet he's gentle as a kitten in the face-to-face situations.
Funny how that works, huh?...  At any rate, does anyone have any leads I
can pursue?  I'm really wanting to get a hold of one of those wheel
balancers.  Thanks in advance...

Juan Villarreal
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR after market plastic.  Need Help
Date: 25 Mar 1999 17:01:32 -0500

    =20
     List,
    =20
     Can anyone give me any tips on obtaining after market plastic for a=20
     1992 KLR?  My bike is in need of a cosmetic change (all platic is=20
     faded) and I hope that I don't have to go to the dealer in order to=20
     make it "beautiful" again=2E  I would love to find some blank side=20
     panels and then find some "strictly dirt" stickers to give it a new=20
     look=2E  Does anybody have any tips on rejuvenating plastic or a vendo=
r=20
     who carries after market plastic that will fit the side panels=2E (on=20
     both sides of the seat and gas tank)=2E
    =20
     Thanks
    =20
     Darnell
    =20




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Removing a link on a chain
Date: 25 Mar 1999 17:24:47 EST

In a message dated 3/25/99 6:08:56 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Life is short - have the shop cut it to the proper length (for free,
natch).
 I have to do this every time I purchase a chain.
  Yes Eric, but by buying a 520X120 chain and a spare master link, you learn
how to cut chain, how not to unroll chain and you now have a 14 link piece of
chain to help you or a buddy. Since I don't use the built in tool storage area
in the luggage rack because the GIVI tour trunk adapter plate partially covers
it, it is a great place to store that piece of chain, extra master links, tire
tools, patch kit and a good tool breaker in an out of the way, but not
forgotten place. franks .02 worth



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) To: "'[e-mail]'" <[e-mail]>
Date: 25 Mar 1999 16:15:49 -0700

Juan's moto-consumer adventure underlines my experiences with our passion.
Many of the best wrenches, welders, fabricators & retail folks lack, shall
we say, people skills. In my minds eye there are several pictures: different
places, different people, but the plot's the same. My bike is being worked
on by a guy sipping what definitely is not his first drink of the day.
Between obscenities directed at the task he's treating me to the sad story
of his life. Occasionally he inexplicably directs an insult at me. Why am I
putting up with this? This eccentric is honest to the core; in the past he's
gone way out of his way to help me. With him there's no such thing as
wondering whether a job was actually done. Except for the few times he's had
way too much, he's amazingly thorough. I'll take him over most dealers' shop
any day. It's a strange world, but you already knew that. Bogdan



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Now what?...
Date: 25 Mar 1999 17:45:28 EST

In a message dated 3/25/99 2:14:41 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I feel better now...  Thanks to all of you for letting me vent, and let
 me know if I have any other options for purchasing one of those *** ****
 things.  Later... >>
Juan, get a thin metal bar, put it through your wheel and rest the skewered
wheel across two chairs in you kitchen or across the edges of a garbage can
and let the wheel roll. Use a magic marker and see if the same spot goes to
the bottom each time and add a weight to the opposite side. You can do as good
a job as needed with a little patience and some lead stick -on weights or use
solder wrapped around your spokes if your in a pinch. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR-Now what?...
Date: 25 Mar 1999 16:50:37 -0700

    Juan, An acquaintance with a BMW K bike (those things go fast!) uses
this method:
    He mounts the tire & goes for a ride carefully increasing his speed.
If the bike shows no handling problems at well over 100mph, he figures it's
balanced "well enough". He rarely has to take a tire off to balance it. This
guy regularly logs 25k miles per year and gets great mileage from his tires.
Bogdan

    Juan, get a thin metal bar, put it through your wheel and rest the
skewered
    wheel across two chairs in you kitchen or across the edges of a
garbage can
    and let the wheel roll. Use a magic marker and see if the same spot
goes to
    the bottom each time and add a weight to the opposite side. You can
do as good
    a job as needed with a little patience and some lead stick -on
weights or use
    solder wrapped around your spokes if your in a pinch. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Linus <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) unsubscribe
Date: 26 Mar 1999 07:55:49 +0800

unsubscribe



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Now what?...
Date: 25 Mar 1999 19:18:40 EST

In a message dated 3/25/99 3:19:29 PM Pacific Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

> Juan, get a thin metal bar, put it through your wheel and rest the skewered
>  wheel across two chairs in you kitchen or across the edges of a garbage can
>  and let the wheel roll. Use a magic marker and see if the same spot goes to
>  the bottom each time and add a weight to the opposite side. You can do as
> good
>  a job as needed with a little patience and some lead stick -on weights or
> use
>  solder wrapped around your spokes if your in a pinch. frank
This is my method except I use the axle and have made a little jig out of 2
pieces of 2x6, just make sure the axle is absolutely level and you can balance
your wheel in no time.
Kurt Grife



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Shawn Bryan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: [Fwd: What about KTM?]
Date: 25 Mar 1999 19:54:49 -0500

Gino,

Thanks for the thoughtful reply.  As I lurk on the list, I see numerous
discussions about "tweaking" the KLR to get it where people want it to be:
new fork springs, new rear shock, new windshield, aux lighting, etc.  This
is all well and good, and I understand the urge to tinker and customize our
bikes.  My VFR is clearly mine, with my own touches front and rear.  It
appears from the conversations, however, that a great many listers find the
KLR inadequate in these respects and that the modifications are not just
customizing efforts.  So if I spend $5,000 on a new KLR and then spend
another $1,000 on after market improvements I'm moving into Africa Twin and
Adventure R pricing territory.  Still perhaps $1,500-2,000 away, but
significantly closer than the $5,000 first suggests.  Now I admit that I
haven't seen an Adventure R up close yet, but I'm long legged so that's not
an issue.  But the KTM appears to have a significantly higher level of
components out the door than the KLR and therefore might not need the
aftermarket additions of the KLR.  If true, then perhaps the bikes are
closer in cost.  I don't know about maintenance.  You have indicated that
KTM has a parts problem.  That's good to know.  Since I don't have a decent
dealer for either the KLR or the KTM within an hour's drive of here
(Vermont) it could be an issue.

So I continue to watch and wait for more information from those who know and
who have first hand experience.  That's easy for the KLR:  the list is a
great resource.  Finding owners of the KTM Adventure series who are willing
to talk is more of a challenge.  I'm waiting...

----- Original Message -----
Sent: 25 March, 1999 9:10


> Additionally, I was very close to purchasing an Adventure R (has the new
LC4
> 640 motor).  I liked both bikes.  They have top shelf components,
excellent
> engineering and are the best at what they are designed to do. I have a
> KLR650 and to me, the KTM does not provide the value I look for in a bike.
I
> have not want, need or desire to wait weeks and months for parts either.
> Many will dispute the parts availability issue, but the reality is that it
> exists and has kept many KTM riders from enjoying riding for long periods
of
> time.  The KTM's are also very tall with no easy way to lower them which
> poses a problem for those of us with short inseams. If you want one of the
> best dual sport adventure bikes in the world, the problems are a small
price
> to pay; the KTM is the bike for you.
>
>
> Gino
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: [Fwd: What about KTM?]
Date: 25 Mar 1999 18:16:38 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>an issue.  But the KTM appears to have a significantly higher level of
>components out the door than the KLR and therefore might not need the
>aftermarket additions of the KLR.  If true, then perhaps the bikes are
>closer in cost.

Shawn,

Unless you stay clear of any decent stretches of highspeed paved roads
you'll find you'll be buying aftermarket parts for the KTM to get it more
street worthy vs. making the KLR more dirt worthy.  If you want a 80%+
offroad machine the stock KTM may be the ticket.  If you want a bike that
can tackle roads and dirt equally the KLR is a good starting point.

I think the fact you mentioned you customized your VFR says that you
probably (like most of us) enjoy specing out a bike - making it your own.
If you bought a KTM don't you think you'd buy aftermarket stuff? - comfy
seat, luggage rack, maybe a different windshield, etc, etc??

As a lurker on the BMW GS list I am always amazed that people buy a $18,000
bike and then spend $5,000 for add on parts -- especially on a BMW which has
pretty good parts to begin with, but people enjoy tinkering even if the bike
is pretty good to begin with.

Just some thoughts.

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (NKLR650) Re: What about KTM?]
Date: 25 Mar 1999 20:35:26 -0500

Vik Banerjee wrote:
> If you bought a KTM don't you think you'd buy aftermarket stuff? - comfy
> seat,

After looking at that KTM seat, it makes me thankful for the KLR seat.
Yeah, buying an aftermarket seat would be HIGH prior-I-tie on the KTM.

Jake, who feels beauty is in the eye of the beer holder



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Shawn Bryan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: [Fwd: What about KTM?]
Date: 25 Mar 1999 20:39:49 -0500

Vik,

I'm sure I'd find some things to add, no question.  I'd be using the DS bike
for primarily gravel, dirt and other secondary roads and trails here in VT
and up into Canada and northern NY and NH.  Some paved roads but the VFR
loves twisty asphalt!  Still waiting for a KTMer to offer some counterpoint
:).

Shawn Bryan
VFR750F, Red, AMA, HRCA,
[e-mail]
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 25 March, 1999 20:16


>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shawn Bryan <[e-mail]>
> To: Pokluda, Gino F <[e-mail]>; KLR LIST
> <[e-mail]>
> Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 5:53 PM
> Subject: (klr650) Re: [Fwd: What about KTM?]
>
>
> >an issue.  But the KTM appears to have a significantly higher level of
> >components out the door than the KLR and therefore might not need the
> >aftermarket additions of the KLR.  If true, then perhaps the bikes are
> >closer in cost.
>
> Shawn,
>
> Unless you stay clear of any decent stretches of highspeed paved roads
> you'll find you'll be buying aftermarket parts for the KTM to get it more
> street worthy vs. making the KLR more dirt worthy.  If you want a 80%+
> offroad machine the stock KTM may be the ticket.  If you want a bike that
> can tackle roads and dirt equally the KLR is a good starting point.
>
> I think the fact you mentioned you customized your VFR says that you
> probably (like most of us) enjoy specing out a bike - making it your own.
> If you bought a KTM don't you think you'd buy aftermarket stuff? - comfy
> seat, luggage rack, maybe a different windshield, etc, etc??
>
> As a lurker on the BMW GS list I am always amazed that people buy a
$18,000
> bike and then spend $5,000 for add on parts -- especially on a BMW which
has
> pretty good parts to begin with, but people enjoy tinkering even if the
bike
> is pretty good to begin with.
>
> Just some thoughts.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Vik
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Shawn Bryan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (NKLR650) Re: What about KTM?]
Date: 25 Mar 1999 20:43:04 -0500

I'll drink to that!
Shawn Bryan
VFR750F, Red, AMA, HRCA,
[e-mail]
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 25 March, 1999 20:35
> After looking at that KTM seat, it makes me thankful for the KLR seat.
> Yeah, buying an aftermarket seat would be HIGH prior-I-tie on the KTM.
>
> Jake, who feels beauty is in the eye of the beer holder
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: [Fwd: What about KTM?]
Date: 25 Mar 1999 18:48:22 -0700

|I'm sure I'd find some things to add, no question.  I'd be using the DS bike
|for primarily gravel, dirt and other secondary roads and trails here in VT
|and up into Canada and northern NY and NH.  Some paved roads but the VFR
|loves twisty asphalt!  Still waiting for a KTMer to offer some counterpoint
|:).
|
|Shawn Bryan


Shawn there are several KTM owners on DUST who would be glad to share their experiences...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #180
Date: 25 Mar 1999 20:36:41 EST

Regarding valve adjustments, I had this uneasy feeling after the first service
on my 99 KLR, when I had asked them to record the valve clearances and they
wrote down:  LI = .004, RI = .004, LE = .006 and RE = .006.   Too
coincidental, I thought, that all clearances were at exactly at the minimums.

Then I read today's postings (400 miles later) and decided to check them
myself.   My bike is opened up, and  I have the mark with the "T" beside it
directly over the notch in the inspection hole.  The intake cam lobs point
toward the rear of the engine, while the exhaust cam lobs point toward the
front of the engine, just like the pictures in Eldon Carl's writeup.

My .003 gauge will slide easily between the lobs and the shims on the intake
side.  The .004 can be forced into the LI, but not into the RI.  I conclude
that I have a loose .003 LI and a .003 RI.

As to the exaust side, my .005 will slip in the LE, and a .006 can be forced
in.  That says loose .005 to me.   As to the RE, a .006 will slip in, but a
.007 will not.  That says .006 to me.

Question One:  Does this measurement procedure sound correct?

Question Two:  Seems to me that as long as I've got the thing opened up and
will be replacing at least some shims, I should replace all four, using .004
thinner shims on all of them, moving the LI  to a loose .007, the RI to a
.007, the LE to a loose .009 and a RI to a .010.  Does that sound right?  Or,
should I use .002 thinner shims on all four, shooting for the middle of the
acceptable ranges?  Or is my thinking all screwed up as usual?

Question Three:  The manual says use a silicone sealant on the gasket.  Is
this sealant something I can get at a auto parts house?  And do I put the
sealant on both sides of the gasket, or just on the bottom side?

KenReither  (Happiness is motorcycle parts strewn all over the place)
99 KLR650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Robert Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Wheel Balance
Date: 25 Mar 1999 20:55:42 -0500

Juan Villarreal wrote:
>
<snip>
>
> One thing's for sure.  I am still without a wheel balancer (I need some
> weights too)

The way I balance my tires is to place the axle through the dismounted
wheel with the ends of the axle supported by two sawhorses.  I spin the
tire and mark the top of the tire after it stops rotating using a piece
of chalk.  The tire is spun and marked, spun and marked several times
(usually about 10 iterations).  If there are a collection of chalk marks
in close proximity, then I add some weight to the tire.  For weight, I
use solid solder wrapped around the spoke, near the rim.  With a bit of
experimentation the tire will rotate and stop in a more or less random
location (i.e., no heavy spot).  I read about this in a motorcycle
magazine in the early 1970s.  Yep, it really works.

You don't need to spend a fortune to balance your tires.

Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Ken Belfatto" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Chicago area Riders - Highland House this Sun.
Date: 25 Mar 1999 20:06:39 -0600

If it's not raining, I'm in for Highland House this Sunday (3/28) I'll
probably get there a leisurely 9-9:30a
Hope to see somebody there - I'll be the loud one that stalls at most stops
(till I get the 45 pilot jet).

Kenny in S.Elgin
A12 Iron Chariot? (has that one been used yet?)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Robert Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #180
Date: 25 Mar 1999 21:14:26 -0500

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> Regarding valve adjustments,

I just adjusted the valves on my A2. The intake valve clearances were
tighter
than my thinnest gauge.  I ordered several shims from Fred so as to not
have to iterate too much.  His shim prices are very reasonable.  In the
end
I used shim that allowed the gauge for the minimum clearance to easily
slip
between the cam and the shim.  The next thicker gauge would not fit.

For a silicone sealant, I went to the local NAPA and purchased the high
temperature RTV tube of silicone.  It is a Loctite/Permatex product that
is in an orange tube and the silicone is orange.  I used a very thin
coating on the top of the head where the gasket rests.  After seating
the gasket and placing the valve cover in place, I wiped off the bit
of orange goop that squeezed out.

Next time I check the valves, I'm draining the coolant first and
removing
the dang coolant hose from the top of the radiator.  There was some
serious
cussin' going on as I was trying to get the valve cover back in place
without
dropping the gasket on the floor.  Finally got it back on.

Ride Safely,
Rob Tayloe <[e-mail]>
Columbus, Ohio



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Valve adjustment...
Date: 25 Mar 1999 19:15:03 -0700


-----Original Message-----


|Regarding valve adjustments, I had this uneasy feeling after the first service
|on my 99 KLR, when I had asked them to record the valve clearances and they
|wrote down:  LI = .004, RI = .004, LE = .006 and RE = .006.   Too
|coincidental, I thought, that all clearances were at exactly at the minimums.
|
|Then I read today's postings (400 miles later) and decided to check them
|myself.   My bike is opened up, and  I have the mark with the "T" beside it
|directly over the notch in the inspection hole.  The intake cam lobs point
|toward the rear of the engine, while the exhaust cam lobs point toward the
|front of the engine, just like the pictures in Eldon Carl's writeup.
|
|My .003 gauge will slide easily between the lobs and the shims on the intake
|side.  The .004 can be forced into the LI, but not into the RI.  I conclude
|that I have a loose .003 LI and a .003 RI.
|
|As to the exaust side, my .005 will slip in the LE, and a .006 can be forced
|in.  That says loose .005 to me.   As to the RE, a .006 will slip in, but a
|.007 will not.  That says .006 to me.
|
|Question One:  Does this measurement procedure sound correct?

Perfect


|Question Two:  Seems to me that as long as I've got the thing opened up and
|will be replacing at least some shims, I should replace all four, using .004
|thinner shims on all of them, moving the LI  to a loose .007, the RI to a
|.007, the LE to a loose .009 and a RI to a .010.  Does that sound right?  Or,
|should I use .002 thinner shims on all four, shooting for the middle of the
|acceptable ranges?  Or is my thinking all screwed up as usual?

No, I think you have it perfectly. Eldon Carl recommends .006-.008 for intake during the first
6,000 miles and .008-.010 for exhaust (you did mean RE above didn't you?)


You may end up using 4 different shims but be able to use some of the ones you already
have...this is where you need to use the shimcalc program, it is amazing...download it at

www.ironjungle.com


This is Eldon Carl's advice and I follow it...

          My rountine for valve adjustment on a new KLR engine is as follows. Keep in
          mind that the stock settings are .004" to .008" for intake and .006" to .010"
          exhaust. I check the valves at 500, 1500, 3000 miles. I keep them on the loose
          side, i.e. .006" to .008" intake and .008" to .010" exhaust. At 6000 miles, I do
          another check and if they haven't moved, I set them at .005" to .007" intake and
          .008" to .010" exhaust. From 6000 miles on, I only adjust the valves every
          10,000 miles. During my 123,000 miles of KLR riding. I've never found my valves
          out of spec using this method."
|
|Question Three:  The manual says use a silicone sealant on the gasket.  Is
|this sealant something I can get at a auto parts house?  And do I put the
|sealant on both sides of the gasket, or just on the bottom side?

Yes, you can get it at Checker/Autozone, use it sparingly just in the spots pointed to (the
dished parts)..use a torque wrench when retightening...

Good on ya for doing this work Ken!






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re:(NKLR) MTBE BYE BYE
Date: 25 Mar 1999 18:46:24 -0800

Hey here is some good news for a change.  The governor of California, Gray
Davis, just announced the evil MTBE (methyl tertiary butyl ether) gasoline
additive used to allegedly reduce tailpipe emissions will be removed from
all Ca. fuel beginning  immediately with total removal  by the year 2002.
The additive has proven to be toxic and responsible for numerous car fires
here as well as the source of a raging BIG OIL political debate.  This crap
is scary.  Maybe this Davis guy isn't quite the BOZO I thought he was!
Morgan
Carlsbad




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fw: Tires
Date: 25 Mar 1999 19:51:48 -0700


-----Original Message-----


|Have any listers gone to straight sport touring tires? what brand and what
|kind of tread life did you get? I'm looking for longer life than off-road
|capability. It seems that you can go off road in a pinch with street tires
|better than you can go long fast distances on DS tires in a pinch. I
|appreciate any feedback pro and con. frank
|Also remember reading about a lister that manufactures a universal saddlebag
|mount system onto which any kind of hard suitcase type luggage,  like
|Pelicans, can be bolted to avoid the SA cut and run soft luggage grab. Thanks
|in advance. frank
|




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] Any Honda Hooters out there?
Date: 25 Mar 1999 22:34:38 -0500

I'm thinking about going to Honda Hoot in Asheville this June (22nd to
the 26th). Any other KLR'sts from the southeast (Flawdah or Jawja)
thankin' on goin'? If so let me know. If I go, I can get us PRIMO free
camping on nearly 500 acres with new (*clean*) facilities and close
proximity to downtown. What more could you ask for (don't answer that!)
I'll be leaving from Jacksonville, FL. Any-o-you SoFla addicts
interested?


Jake, I took an IQ test today and it was negative. I blame the KLR!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Ryan Combs)
Subject: (klr650) tankbags
Date: 25 Mar 1999 22:22:52 -0600 (CST)

Hi all, I haven't seen tank bags mentioned for a while, so I thought I
would ask. My Kawa taank bag wore out quickly, and I saw the Wolfman
bags at Steamboat in September. They showed me an "Expedition" I think
it was, designed for the g/s pd bikes. Supposedly it will fit a KLR very
well, and hold lots of stuff (like cancerous sandwiches). I was
wondering if anyone had used this bag and had any comments. Hope to see
you all in Moab (worth the $30) Ryan a3




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Wheel Balance
Date: 25 Mar 1999 23:26:40 EST

In a message dated 3/25/99 6:55:42 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< The way I balance my tires is to place the axle through the dismounted
 wheel with the ends of the axle supported by two sawhorses.  >>

This is a good method.  You are relying on your wheel bearings being inperfect
condition, though.  The Telefix balancing stand has its own bearings to allow
the wheel to spin freely.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Fw: Tires
Date: 25 Mar 1999 21:10:18 -0800


It seems that you can go off road in a pinch with street tires
|better than you can go long fast distances on DS tires in a pinch. I
|appreciate any feedback pro and con. frank
--------
Not good my friend. I'm an old hand at beating on street-bikes off road and
can tell you in no uncertain terms that street rubber has NO place on
anything other than easy gravel. You need some kind of aggresion in a tire
to make any kind of turn off-road...Your best bet is to go with more street
oriented tires that have relatively large contact area for the road, yet a
bit O' the knob for the occasional easy dirt excursion. Some of these tires
get decent tread life and don't cost a bundle, yet will handle the KLR's
comfortable top cruising speed with ease.

Rik---- Street Dumps = 0 , Dirt dumps = ???




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR BMW GS List Address
Date: 25 Mar 1999 22:31:28

Hey All!

Could one of the resident Beemer boys send the GS list address to me,
please!

Thanks,

Guy




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "D. Wilder" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) clutch not disengaging
Date: 25 Mar 1999 23:56:38 -0600

With the clutch lever pulled in at a dead stop I put the bike into 1st gear
and "clunk" it stalls dead like my clutch is not fully disengaging.  I
adjusted the cable adjusters some but still no change.  I was still able to
ride but I don't want to hurt the transmission.  Just how screwed am I?








-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: balance shafts etc.
Date: 25 Mar 1999 22:04:42 -0800



[e-mail] wrote:

> > Well, I think physics (WHAT? AGAIN!!!) have more to do with it.  Crankshaft
> > weights can cancel
> > primary imbalances.  I think the countershaft balance weights can cancel out
> > second order
> > imbalances.  Now I'm thinking about tearing my engine down some more.  I
> > really shoulda taken it
> > outa the bike. :(Beez
>
> Beez,
>
> Okay, this is a new one for me. What is the difference between primary and secondary imbalances?
> And why is it that secondary imbalances more important to minimize than primary imbalances?
>
> Alex

 Alex,
You really want to ask this of someone like Kevin Cameron, or one of our intrepid listers.  My
laymans take on it is that primary imbalance IS the most important and is taken care of largely by
the large weights on the crank.  That piston can accelerate at thousands of Gs at redline.
Secondary imbalance stems from the fact that the rotating crank weights aren't exactly the right
setup to "perfectly" counterbalance the oscillating piston.  So, when the crankshaft weights are out
of phase with the piston, they're adding back in some "secondary" and perhaps higher order
harmonics.  These effects can become quite large on a big single so the usual hack is to add a
"counterbalancer".  This will also add some even higher order effects but by then they're small,
just "buzzing" the grips and pegs.

Hope this clears things up a little bit.  I think internal combustion engines are really neat, I
just wish they were a good bit more efficient.
Cheers!
Chris





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "D. Wilder" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) disregard - clutch not disengaging
Date: 26 Mar 1999 00:10:41 -0600

Disregard my earlier query / post about KLR stalling when going into first
gear.  I checked the archives and found an old post about a malfunction
problem with the kickstand switch that won't let you put the bike in gear
thinking (do bikes think?) that the kickstand is still down.  Sure enough
this was the culprit in my case.  I thought I was in for major repair bills.

D. Wilder
[e-mail]






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #180
Date: 25 Mar 1999 22:32:57 -0800

> Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:05:13 -0800
> From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: (klr650) First Service (NKLR)
>
> Hello List !
>
> So tonight I picked my Lucky 13 up from the shop after its first (500m)
> service. For the grand total of $174.68 (US) the Kawi shop right down the
> street performed the required maintenance recommended by Kawasaki
> Corp.((Maybe)).
>
> The itemized invoice that was handed back to me listed the routine checks I
> expected, ie. brakes, oil filter and change, lube and adj of chain, tire
> pressure check (thanx guys, didn't know quite how to do it myself), coolant
> level, instruments and lights, oil leak check, valve clearances. This was
> all well and good, and I've been happy with the service, attitude, and
> knowledge displayed by the folks at this particular shop. The questions I
> have involve their compression test and charging system test.
>
> The bike's compression was tested at 80psi, which they said was good as the
> bike has a built in decompressor... say what? Does this figure tell me
> anything?

Yep, this is right!  Unless you happen to have no KACR which means that you will have full
compression at starting RPM but have a VERY hard time achieving starting RPM. :-)

> I really haven't checked out the shop manual in detail and can't
> say that this makes a whole lot of sense. Shouldn't a compression test
> reflect an accurate reading? Should I tear out the few hairs left on my
> head, or get a woody?

Aah, quit worrying and ride that thang!  The BIKE not the woody, sheesh!

>
>
> The charging test was recorded as being 14.3 DCV, which they figured to be,
> "good". Is this good? The only experience I've had with my bike's batteries
> is to add water, clean the contacts, charge, and toss if all of the above
> fails.(I think I had to mess with the charging system once as a kid but my
> late teen years musta killed those memory brain cells)

Yep, this is double plus good.  Your bike, when revved slightly off idle, charges the batt (load)
at 14.3 while running all those other pesky electrical appliances.  This situation will hold up for
some number of years until you need your first, NEW BATTERY!!!!

>
>
> As I had initially spoken with the shop manager regarding all the work I
> expected to happen on my bike I was a tad disappointed. I was VERY happy
> when I asked if he thought I should have the valve clearances checked and he
> said, "ya gotta check the valve clearances on the big singles, its a must
> do!"  ----- I smeared a bit of mud on both the magneto cover caps and it
> appears they haven't been touched. Unfortunately I live in Seattle and by
> the time I arrived at the shop it had been in the rain for a good hour or
> so. I could be so wrong about this but the man also told me that the
> balancer chain adjustment didn't usually need adjusting after so few miles.
> He did say it was checked, but can you check just check it? Or do you just
> do it?

I dunno, from the sound of things, I'd guess they did everything, but if you're not confident,
that's a "bad thing".  Check it yourself, or go another 2k and pay someone to do a valve
adjustment, asking for the clearances and shim sizes that are in there before AND after.  I do my
own and if you're so inclined, you can too, and get plenty of assistance here.

>
>
> I kinda feel like going over my bike this weekend and knowing for sure, I
> don't feel so great about what may or may not have been looked at on my
> bike.
>
> I apologize for this huge mailing, but would appreciate any/all advice and
> wisdom on the matter.

Work on it, ride it, repeat.  Involve others.Cheers!
Chris


>
>
> Rik--- Lucky 13
>
> [Trying to get time off for Moab. Use to live in Summit County Colorado and
> would LOVE to get back to that country. Great memories of mountain biking on
> slick rock!!]
>
>



> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 22:44:43 -0700
> From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: Re: (klr650) First Service (NKLR)
>
>

snip

> Balancer chain adjustment...let's start with that. You can do it yourself tomorrow morning...it
> is easy and fast. Take an 8mm box wrench...crouch down by the bike on the left side...way down
> and forward on the side but just under the lip of the side of the case is a black rubber
> plug...pop this off...take the 8 mm and loosen the nut..counterclockwise 3 full turns...this is
> 24... 1/8 turns for me because it is hard to get much of a swing with my Bash Plate...now take
> a rubber mallet or rubber covered screwdriver and tap on the side of the case a few times...now
> tighten the nut...and here is the only part that can go wrong...don't overtighten...just snug
> it up.
> Valve check? easy....do it this weekend and have the joy of getting to know your bike and
> overcoming any anxieties you may have.
> Pull the side covers, pull the seat, pull the radiator shrouds, pull the tank (2 hoses on the
> rear bottom, a vacuum hose at the petcock, and the fuel line.
> Now, loosen the fan and zip tie it up and away disconnect the radiator fan sensor ...remove the
> upper rear engine bracket...remove the spark plug wire and coil wire...and move it aside..move
> the wire to the heat sensor next to the plug...move any other wires in the way...loosen the
> valve cover nuts...and remove the nuts...getting the cover off is like one of those chinese
> finger torture things...but it will come up and out to the left of the engine...don't hesitate
> to press against the coolant hose or remove it...now pull the two plugs on the side of the
> case...the ones you marked...the top one is the timing marks...the bottom the crank nut that
> you rotate...rotate the engine counterclockwise until the intakes come up and now get a
> flashlight and look for the timing marks...you want the third mark "T" and line it up on the
> notch above the mark...Now get your feeler gauges and check the clearances...intake .004-.008
> exhausts .006-.010...invest in a torque wrench...by a 3/8 drive with a 1/4 adapter...It sounds
> worse than it is...write if you need any help...the full procedure is here...
>
>

snipKurt, that's from memory, stream of consciousness?!?!?!?!?
You are the MAN!!!!
Hey, I'm still not really sure about my valve clearances yet.  Wanna gimme a hand this weekend?
;-)

> Kurt
>
> ------------------------------
>

>

snip

> Enough, Yeeesh talk about soapbox,
> Kurt (showing a lot of wear and tear these days himself)

Not at all, you should see my klr tho... :P
Cheers!
Beez





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR - Tire selection
Date: 25 Mar 1999 22:30:50 -0000

I spent the past 12 years ripping around on sportbikes, Metzeler Comp K's
all around.  I wasn't sure how I would adjust to the KLR, but Yeehaaaa! I
love it!   Anyway, I run the Avon AM24 Gripster front and rear, and am
completely satisfied with their performance on road and off.  I've heavily
modified my street riding style, mainly due to the weak performance of the
front brake, but also because I don't feel comfortable pushing that
skinny-semi-knobby that hard on the roads.  I gauge the front traction by
trying to lock up the front in an empty parking lot, to get a feel for what
type of load that front tire will take before it gives up.  The only bad
point to these tires is on wet pavement, they get squirrelly, but just back
off a little and slow down for conditions.

One of our Aussie listers runs Metzeler ME-33 and ME-55 combo with excellent
results.  If I was sticking to tar only, I would go with that choice.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Locked Ignition
Date: 26 Mar 1999 02:05:54 EST

Good Day all
    This is for the rider that had trouble with his ignition switch.  I have
never had problems with mine, and out of habit, I think I found out why.
    When the front end starts to feel a little funny, I usually check the air
pressure in the forks. Now Kawasaki specifies to have zero air pressure in the
forks.  What I have been doing is to take the end of the ignition key and
releasing the air from each fork.
    Without realizing it, as the pressurized air escapes, it sprays a bit of oil
onto the key. When the key is reinserted into the switch, I'm lubing the
switch.   Ha!

      Viewed best
   in the text font
      'Courier'
!;  , "' ___!" ',' ,'
.;" : .:/___\:' , .:
: .:  ;(!* *!).: ;: '
, ` ! __\^-^/__.: ';
 !.:./   ___   \, :':   Bob Wing
:,._/   |___|   \_'.'
!.(__\=/     \=/__):; [e-mail]
: . O=|_[   ]_|=O: ..
.,:;,  \.---./  :, :.
'.`,`:| =   = |,`.':; wet out there
;`.'; | =.-.= |;'`:.`    ain't it
. .:`.!_|| ||_!.:,; .
: , `: =|| ||= :;, `:
! ;.: ` <| |> `. .:,;
. ; `` . | |. :. ;`';
:, `.' : | | `,'.: ;`
! ,': ___`-'___:;`.'!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: valves AGAIN :)
Date: 25 Mar 1999 23:21:46 -0800

>

snipWell, I got gearcalc & shimcalc.  AWESOME!
The level of community support for the KLR is not to be underestimated.
I did, however, notice a small bug in shimcalc's reference menu popup.  The program works fine
though, it's just a typo.

> www.ironjungle.com
>
> This is Eldon Carl's advice and I follow it...
>
>           My rountine for valve adjustment on a new KLR engine is as follows. Keep in
>           mind that the stock settings are .004" to .008" for intake and .006" to .010"
>           exhaust. I check the valves at 500, 1500, 3000 miles. I keep them on the loose
>           side, i.e. .006" to .008" intake and .008" to .010" exhaust. At 6000 miles, I do
>           another check and if they haven't moved, I set them at .005" to .007" intake and
>           .008" to .010" exhaust. From 6000 miles on, I only adjust the valves every
>           10,000 miles. During my 123,000 miles of KLR riding. I've never found my valves
>           out of spec using this method."

snip

The wise ones have spoken.  You must heed the call.  Adjust valves, go riding, buy more stuff, be
happy... ;-)

Sheesh, I REALLY gotta get some sleep!  :P
b





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted & Beth Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) unsubscribe
Date: 26 Mar 1999 00:26:54 -0500

unsubscribe




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fw: BC Canyons Rally '99
Date: 26 Mar 1999 04:01:34 -0700

Listers, I've been in contact with Ged and he has asked me to post this update announcement.
FWIW, Vik and I'll be there...Ged, I'm cross-posting your announcement to three lists (sorry
joint subscribers): DUST; dr350 and klr650 ....

Kurt

-----Original Message-----


|>Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 23:03:41 -0800
|>To: GS List
|>From: Ged Schwartz <[e-mail]>)
|>Subject: BC Canyons Rally '99
|>
|>
|
|Dual Sporters,
|
|>I posted this a few months back and wish to make one final post...if you
|are already a confirmed registrant or have no interest in a British
|Columbia dual purpose ride in late July, please hit your trash icon ...
|thanks for the patience:
|>
|>BC CANYONS RALLY 99
|>
|>>This is an invitation for adventure riders:
|>
|> While riding with a gang of 50 other GSers ( a few 650's and one guy on
|his new Triumph street rocket...[he said he left the GS at home])  last
|summer for three days of Idaho backroads on the way to the Missoula
|National  (big thanks to Mike from Boise), I decided it would be a lot of
|fun to share some of British Columbia's best riding with those interested
|in backroading.
|>
|>>Here is the concept:  This rally will be limited to a maximum of 20 riders
|>who want to participate in a 3-5 day ride through a variety of canyons,
|>forest service roads, some primo paved sections, and some "on your pegs"
|>terrain. Each rider should have intermediate riding skills, be able to read
|>good maps (a compass may help sometimes), be "self-reliant" and adventurous,
|>choose to either camp or rent accomodations (each evening will offer dinner
|>and the choice of camping or renting accomodation at local inns),  and be
|ready to ride along river canyons, desert (we have cactus in BC as well as
|snow, eh!), 4-wheel roads, mountain passes, and most excellent scenery.
|>>
|>>The dates for the rally are from July 26 - 30th, 1999 (full moon on the
|>28th). The rally will convene in Kamloops, BC on the evening of July 25th
|>for socializing and discussing the tour's outline. Each day will offer 150 -
|>300 kms of riding and end with supper being provided. Each day's ride has
|>optional pavement routes or good gravel roads as alternate routes for those
|>who wish to vary their riding.
|>>
|>>Those who register for the rally will receive the following:
|>>        * Rally itinerary;
|>>        * EXCELLENT maps with routes highlighted and pertinent detailed
|guide notes;
|>>        * accomodation information so participants can reserve their own
|>>          lodging should they choose not to camp;
|>>        * locations for gas along route to be identified;
|>>        * suppers will be provided each night;
|>>        * breakfast (coffee, fruit,and muffins) will be provided each
|morning;
|>>        * campsite costs are covered for tenters;
|>>        * probably some other crap also included.
|>>        * recommended "approach routes" for riders from out-of-province
|>>          so you can check out stupendous riding to and from this rally.
|>>
|>   ** Fantastic maps are being provided with the gracious generousity of
|MUSSIO     VENTURES LTD...publishers of BC's BEST backroad map books. **
|>
|>>This project is intended to be a cost-recovery project and IS NOT a
|>commercial tour...  we organize the basics so you can enjoy the ride and
|>know that showers, campsights and supper are waiting at the end of your
|>day's ride.
|
|>>
|>>The cost will be $150 Canadian (about $100 US), eh?
|>>
|>>The route travels west from Kamloops, through old Hudson Bay trade routes
|>and Caribou Gold Rush trails, and will travel primarily by gravel and dirt
|>roads (some pavement is necessary for small stretches) through the towns of
|>Cache Creek, Spences Bridge, Pavillion, Clinton, Bralorne, and Lilooet
|>(these are the major gas stops). The 3-day ride will leave riders a few
|> >hours from Pemberton/Whistler (North America's top ski resort [w/glacier
|>skiing in July]), and the 5-day ride brings riders either back to Kamloops
|>or with the option to go to Vancouver or the Okanagan Valley.
|>
|>This ride offers some of BC's best riding in terms of some good paved
|sport sections, and a lot of off-slab roads.  An alternate route which is
|primarily paved for those who don't want the gravel/dirt components will be
|marked out on the maps ....this alternate route ends up at the same
|location each evening as the dirt riders ... the third night will be at
|Tyax Lodge and will require about 1-2 hours riding on GOOD gravel road from
|Lillooet...and the same to ride out the next day...either to Pemberton or
|back to Lillooet by gravel.
|>
|>You don't need to be Helge Pederson to join the alternate route (but he
|can come for free if he wants!)
|>
|>>We are floating this invitation out to you so you can consider next
|>summer's riding plans now. More basic information can be obtained from me
|>(Ged Schwartz) at "[e-mail]" Registration packages (maps,
|>etc) will be mailed to interested parties who e-mail their addresses
|>
|>There are some vacancies remaining...so far the long distance award goes
|to *** from Arkansas...unless Erwin makes it across the Bering Straights on
|his Russian route from Germany.
|>
|>Registration cut-off date is May 31.
|>
|>Thanks for letting me clutter up the list with this post.
|>
|>Ged Schwartz
|>Kamloops, BC
|>[phone]
|>81-80GS
|>96 1100GSABS
|>
|>
|
|




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR BMW GS List Address
Date: 26 Mar 1999 04:09:34 -0700

|Could one of the resident Beemer boys send the GS list address to me,
|please!


a good bookmark for all of us enthusiasts is www.micapeak.com look under mailing list round-up
and have a ball...(g)

Kurt





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tankbags
Date: 26 Mar 1999 04:21:44 -0700



>Hi all, I haven't seen tank bags mentioned for a while, so I thought I
>would ask. My Kawa taank bag wore out quickly, and I saw the Wolfman
>bags at Steamboat in September. They showed me an "Expedition" I think
>it was, designed for the g/s pd bikes. Supposedly it will fit a KLR very
>well, and hold lots of stuff (like cancerous sandwiches). I was
>wondering if anyone had used this bag and had any comments. Hope to see
>you all in Moab (worth the $30) Ryan a3

Ryan, the GS list has just gone through a thread on tankbags...the favorite seems to be a
handmade bag by Bob Degautis...I wrote Bob and asked him if he would be willing to adapt his GS
bag to the KLR if I sent him my Kawi bag for measurements...long story short...he said he's
overwhelmed with 6 months of orders (anyone looking for a new small business?).  A couple of
folks have talked about the Wolfman and seem to like it...why not buy it...try it... and if it
doesn't work...post it on the GS list and make someone happy? Maybe you'll discover the best
tankbag for the KLR and do a bunch of us a favor...it'll be your 5 minutes of fame...maybe make
the next issue of TIME..get you a date with a White House Intern...who knows...

Kurt







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Here we go again...NKLR
Date: 26 Mar 1999 04:24:44 -0700

Might as well stir up the flames a little early...but one of the rumors going around...I got
this from Hiro who may or may not be trusted after last year...is that our beloved KLR is once
again at a crossroads...Hiro?

Kurt (I've always trusted in the heart of strangers...)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR-Jus' checkin'...
Date: 26 Mar 1999 04:00:19 -0800 (PST)

Hello out there...  Check, check...  Do I have a good
Yahoo check?

Juan Villarreal

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #180
Date: 26 Mar 1999 07:52:41 -0500

At 09:14 PM 3/25/99 -0500, Robert Tayloe wrote:
>[e-mail] wrote:
>For a silicone sealant, I went to the local NAPA and purchased the high
>temperature RTV tube of silicone.  It is a Loctite/Permatex product that
>is in an orange tube and the silicone is orange.

List (Skip, maybe?),

Has anyone had any problems with RTV failures due to age or vibration?   I
just saw a Continental A-65 engine (was on a J-3 Cub) that lost a jug due
to what the pilot claimed was a failure of RTV, causing high frequency
vibration, which in turn caused crystallization of the cylinder bolts,
which then broke.   Granted, this application is on an air cooled engine,
but wondered if there are any other experiences with motorcycle
applications.   And it could be that the guy just didn't torque his bolts.

Stuart
KLR A12
Juno Beach, Florida
"Go ahead, torque my bolt."



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark Machin" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) New Bike Questions
Date: 26 Mar 1999 04:53:49 -0800

Hello to all-

I just purchased a new 99 KLR 650 after selling my 93 Concours.  Whoa, big
change.

I have been looking for as much data as possible on the KLR and was hoping
somebody could point me in the right direction.  I have been reviewing the
archives on the Dual Sport Page but have been unable to find detailed data
such as:  crank hp/wheel hp, torque, charging output/watts/amps,
performance- speed/rpm/0-60, etc.

I have the service manual on order.  Is the service supplement for the 87-95
worth getting if own a 99?  I understand no supplement is available for the
newer models.

For general info-  I got my KLR for about $4295 at a western Washington
dealer which put it at  $4800 out the door including tax/lic.  If anybody is
close or interested, I can give them more detailed info on the dealer.

Looking forward to joining the dual sport ranks.

Mark Machin
A13, COG 1977






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) clutch not disengaging
Date: 26 Mar 1999 09:10:10 EST

In a message dated 3/26/99 12:01:33 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<   Just how screwed am I? >>
D, only your SO knows foe sure, but a sticky clutch doesn't mean anything
other than the plates are not separating far enough. Either the bike has sat
for a long time or some additive in your oil may have caused the fiber plates
to swell a bit which will need sanding down,  or the cam on the end of the
clutch actuating shaft is not pushing in far enough to release the clutch
adequately, A too thick R/H engine cover gasket (as in home made) from too
thick a gasket material could keep the cam from pushing in far enough. Anyway,
your not screwed. I doubt that there would be significant wear over the long
run. There have been great suggestions on this list in the past week on how to
minimize this problem by starting off rituals. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: balance shafts etc.
Date: 26 Mar 1999 09:12:59 EST

In a message dated 3/26/99 12:04:37 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< And why is it that secondary imbalances more important to minimize than
primary imbalances? >>
Primary balance keeps your private parts from vibrating up and down and
secondary balance keeps them from vibrating front to rear. Am I right on this
one? Anyone own a Brit twin like a Royal Enfield or Norton Atlas? frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New Bike Questions
Date: 26 Mar 1999 09:44:50 -0500

Mark Machin wrote:
> I have the service manual on order.  Is the service supplement for the 87-95
> worth getting if own a 99?  I understand no supplement is available for the
> newer models.

It most certainly is. The supplement is still a good reference as the
design has not undergone any major revisions to warrant Kaw's updating
the manuals. (maybe a seat change and decal mod but those are easy enuff
to repair)

> For general info-  I got my KLR for about $4295 at a western Washington
> dealer which put it at  $4800 out the door including tax/lic.  If anybody is
> close or interested, I can give them more detailed info on the dealer.

I'm noticing a trend on the list in pricing of KLR's. It seems to be
going DOWN. I also notice that dealers in some states charge less for
the bikes but total OTD costs approximate what they would be here in Fla
even though the sticker price is higher here. (its hard to find one for
less than $4600 in the state but with tax,tag,title here it puts final
cost between $4800 and $5000).  I'm assuming you "other state" listers
have add'l state sanctioned taxes, excises, penalties, etc to make up
the difference in pricing?

Jake



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Here we go again...NKLR
Date: 26 Mar 1999 09:45:25 EST

In a message dated 3/26/99 4:26:20 AM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Might as well stir up the flames a little early...but one of the rumors
going around...I got
 this from Hiro who may or may not be trusted after last year...is that our
beloved KLR is once
 again at a crossroads...Hiro?
  >>

I don't think it's so much a matter of  "if" as "when".  My gut feeling is
that the KLR will be retired within the next two years.  You have to remeber
you are dealing with a comapny that is one of the most conservative motorcycle
companies around and they milk a model for everything it is worth.  For the
past 4 years Kawasaki has sold every KLR they make by the end of spring.  It
is built entirely on JIT and "sure thing" for them.  Not that they have
rounded out the rest of their line of bikes, I suspect we could see a KLX
model appear as and enduro and then make it to the dual sport world. Just my
hunch, but the day I find out the KLR will not return is the day I drop
everything I do and go buy the latest model KLR650.


Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) clutch not disengaging
Date: 26 Mar 1999 07:55:58 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>With the clutch lever pulled in at a dead stop I put the bike into 1st gear
>and "clunk" it stalls dead like my clutch is not fully disengaging.  I
>adjusted the cable adjusters some but still no change.  I was still able to
>ride but I don't want to hurt the transmission.  Just how screwed am I?
>


How old of a bike do you have?  Has it been ridden hard?  There is a chance
that your steel plates in the clutch might be warped from heat.  If they are
they won't ever completely release and cause the clutch to drag.  Does this
happen all the time or just the first time.  If it only does it the first
time after it has set for long periods this will be normal but if it does it
everytime then you have a problem.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) disregard - clutch not disengaging
Date: 26 Mar 1999 10:08:07 -0500

I think his clutch plates are OK. Here's his follow up post to the
first.

D. Wilder wrote:
>
> Disregard my earlier query / post about KLR stalling when going into first
> gear.  I checked the archives and found an old post about a malfunction
> problem with the kickstand switch that won't let you put the bike in gear
> thinking (do bikes think?) that the kickstand is still down.  Sure enough
> this was the culprit in my case.  I thought I was in for major repair bills.
>
> D. Wilder
> [e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Here we go again...NKLR
Date: 26 Mar 1999 08:10:52 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>In a message dated 3/26/99 4:26:20 AM Mountain Standard Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< Might as well stir up the flames a little early...but one of the rumors
>going around...I got
> this from Hiro who may or may not be trusted after last year...is that our
>beloved KLR is once
> again at a crossroads...Hiro?
>  >>
>
>I don't think it's so much a matter of  "if" as "when".  My gut feeling is
>that the KLR will be retired within the next two years.  You have to
remeber
>you are dealing with a comapny that is one of the most conservative
motorcycle
>companies around and they milk a model for everything it is worth.  For the
>past 4 years Kawasaki has sold every KLR they make by the end of spring.
It
>is built entirely on JIT and "sure thing" for them.  Not that they have
>rounded out the rest of their line of bikes, I suspect we could see a KLX
>model appear as and enduro and then make it to the dual sport world. Just
my
>hunch, but the day I find out the KLR will not return is the day I drop
>everything I do and go buy the latest model KLR650.
>
>
>Gino
>
>

When you're ready Gino, there is one brand spanking new KLR in Moab.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Chicago area Riders - Highland House this Sun.
Date: 26 Mar 1999 10:13:06 EST

Kenny & others,
I will be at the Highland house on Sunday, but it is likely that I will ride
the R100RS.  I rode the Tengai last week and would like to fire up the RS.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Rob Heywood <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) clutch not disengaging
Date: 26 Mar 1999 10:53:31 -0500

I have a brand new KLR with about 50mi on the odometer. I am noticing that
familiar "clunk" when I drop it into first gear. Is this anything I should be
concerned about? Sounds like I shouldn't care too much.

Fred Hink wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: D. Wilder <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
> Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 4:07 PM
> Subject: (klr650) clutch not disengaging
>
> >With the clutch lever pulled in at a dead stop I put the bike into 1st gear
> >and "clunk" it stalls dead like my clutch is not fully disengaging.  I
> >adjusted the cable adjusters some but still no change.  I was still able to
> >ride but I don't want to hurt the transmission.  Just how screwed am I?
> >
>
> How old of a bike do you have?  Has it been ridden hard?  There is a chance
> that your steel plates in the clutch might be warped from heat.  If they are
> they won't ever completely release and cause the clutch to drag.  Does this
> happen all the time or just the first time.  If it only does it the first
> time after it has set for long periods this will be normal but if it does it
> everytime then you have a problem.
>
> Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Michael Durham <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) inches away from being an owner
Date: 26 Mar 1999 11:17:21 -0500

Hello all,
   I've just joined this list mainly because I'm so close to buying a
klr 650 I can already hear the roar of its engine. I have a few concerns
first that I'd like some feed back on if you don't mind. Mainly I'm
buying this bike to tour the country with. I know it's not the best
street bike, but I plan on visiting quite a few National Forests and
hopefully many other places a car can't go. Is this bike able to handle
prolonged long distance driving?
     I look forward to reading about other topics in this mailing list
and when I get my bikemaybe I'll get to meet a few of you out on the
back road!        Thanks- mike




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Telefix Fork Brace...
Date: 26 Mar 1999 09:10:00 -0700

Ahh.. Obe Wan...he makes such great parts and has wonderful wisdom...unfortunately computers
are his nemesisi...list..I just saved you from reading the entire digest...here is his post...



>From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
>To: <[e-mail]>, <[e-mail]>
>Subject: Re: klr650-digest V2 #182
>Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 08:02:17 -0700
>
>The best part ,other than the stuff I make, for the KLR I have found to add
>to the bike is the Telefix fork brace which is sold by SpecII. I was able to
>buy one a few years back. Part # FS45 for $99.45. It is totally awesome in
>design. Well I tried to buy 5 then 10 then 100 and was jacked around so bad
>that I about had a coranary. The guy is quite insulting and at the least
>hard to work with, but the part is worth it.  We need this part! SpecII
>phone 3 is 818-504-6364. I think we need to pick a day and flood this dude
>with requests for this part. This may sound devious, but I have been trying
>to get this part for years. I have spent thousands of dollars on other
>designs & trying to have them made in the US with no luck. The fork brace is
>needed on the KLR so lets make a plan.
>Happy Trails
>Tim





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) clutch not disengaging
Date: 26 Mar 1999 09:12:38 -0700



>I have a brand new KLR with about 50mi on the odometer. I am noticing that
>familiar "clunk" when I drop it into first gear. Is this anything I should be
>concerned about? Sounds like I shouldn't care too much.
>
>Fred Hink wrote:


Not until you dismantle your neutral safety and sidestand switch and turn 51 yrs. old an
haven't had your cup of Jo in the morning...because then you tend to do things like turning
your nice A13 into the latest version of the Exocet missle right through the garage door...Do
this at the diner in Moab followed by an Artie Johnson...and you will gain instant fame...

Kurt A12




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Hirofumi A. Watanabe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Here we go again...NKLR
Date: 26 Mar 1999 09:33:57 -0700

Kurt writes:

>Might as well stir up the flames a little early...but one of the
>rumors going around...I got this from Hiro who may or may not
>be trusted after last year...is that our beloved KLR is once
>again at a crossroads...Hiro?
>
>Kurt (I've always trusted in the heart of strangers...)


I want to confirm with my sources before sharing that new klr
info here. This seems prudent after the way some listers ran
with my last tip. It's either that or put a leash on Redondo. I
admire the way he bulldogs a story, but I hope he's learned
his lesson and will get corroboration before going to print.

Bob Moffit (marketing VP for Kawasaki), has been hard to pin
down. He's been a little preoccupied fighting off Suzuki's new
190 mph thrill ride called the Hayabusa. It'll be in showrooms
within two months. Bob and the Boys are trying to answer the
call with the new ZX-12. No word on when that one will hit
our shores.

Stay tuned. There are many wonderful things in store...

Hiro  A10  'Thunderbolt'




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Here we go again...NKLR
Date: 26 Mar 1999 11:49:44 -0500

Hirofumi A. Watanabe wrote:
> He's been a little preoccupied fighting off Suzuki's new
> 190 mph thrill ride called the Hayabusa. It'll be in showrooms
> within two months. Bob and the Boys are trying to answer the
> call with the new ZX-12.

Ron said it would be a ZX-12 powered, Hayabusa eating KLR. No low
fender  tho.....or center stand



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) clutch not disengaging
Date: 26 Mar 1999 09:51:00 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: D. Wilder <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>


>I have a brand new KLR with about 50mi on the odometer. I am noticing that
>familiar "clunk" when I drop it into first gear. Is this anything I should
be
>concerned about? Sounds like I shouldn't care too much.


New bikes will be a little "clunky" till they get broke in and the KLR will
clunk a little anyway.  Make sure that your chain is adjusted properly and
you should be good to go.  You need to make your dealer aware of any
concerns about your new bike so that if there ever is a problem the warranty
will cover it.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) inches away from being an owner
Date: 26 Mar 1999 09:59:17 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Hello all,
>   I've just joined this list mainly because I'm so close to buying a
>klr 650 I can already hear the roar of its engine.

If you are looking for a new KLR be prepared for a budgie fart, the roar
comes later.  :<)

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dale Borgeson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New Bike Questions
Date: 26 Mar 1999 11:02:34 -0600 (CST)


A question on KLR specs

From my somewhat variable and sometimes faulty memory.

KLR crank horsepower - 37
alternator output - 190W @ 8000 rpm

Cheers
--
Dale Borgeson    [e-mail]    Minneapolis, MN U.S.A.
"Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) inches away from being an owner NKLR
Date: 26 Mar 1999 12:07:09 EST

Michael, then Fred wrote:

>>Hello all,
>> I've just joined this list mainly because I'm so close to buying a
>>klr 650 I can already hear the roar of its engine.
>
>
>If you are looking for a new KLR be prepared for a budgie fart, the roar
>comes later.  :<)
>
>Fred


Unless Fred's talking about an aftermarket pipe, the only roar
you'll hear will be the roar of your riding buddy's laughter.

John O. (roarin' ta go)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) inches away from being an owner NKLR
Date: 26 Mar 1999 10:23:07 -0700


>Unless Fred's talking about an aftermarket pipe, the only roar
>you'll hear will be the roar of your riding buddy's laughter.
>
>John O. (roarin' ta go)


ahhh ha...anyone else notice John O's signature on Redondo's email?  Strange bedfellows or
what?  Joan...oh Joan...better have a heads up here...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) inches away from being an owner NKLR
Date: 26 Mar 1999 12:23:52 EST

On 3/26/99, Cloudhid did NOT write:

>Unless Fred's talking about an aftermarket pipe, the only roar
>you'll hear will be the roar of your riding buddy's laughter.
>
>John O. (roarin' ta go)



 That's what I get for being a nice guy. John's phone service was
 knocked out in yesterdays storm and he asked me if he could use
 my computer to access the web. I've already admonished him to
 use his own service to sling mud. Personally I grew fond of the
 stock sound.

 "Better to be occasionally cheated than perpetually suspicious"
  -BC Forbes

 Redondo Ron (who'd never cast aspersions on his beloved klr)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: balance shafts etc.
Date: 27 Mar 1999 04:46:30 +1000

Christopher J Beasley wrote:
[...]
> Well, I think physics (WHAT? AGAIN!!!) have more to do with it.  Crankshaft weights can cancel
> primary imbalances.  I think the countershaft balance weights can cancel out second order
> imbalances.  Now I'm thinking about tearing my engine down some more.  I really shoulda taken it
> outa the bike. :(Beez

>From what I've read, balance shafts running at engine speed are
used to balance primary forces, at twice engine speed they balance
secondaries.
As the manual shows the balancer system sprockets to all be similar
in size, I have to assume that the KLR balancer system against the
primary forces.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) inches away from being an owner NKLR
Date: 26 Mar 1999 10:56:55 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>On 3/26/99, Cloudhid did NOT write:
>
>>Unless Fred's talking about an aftermarket pipe, the only roar
>>you'll hear will be the roar of your riding buddy's laughter.
>>
>>John O. (roarin' ta go)
>
>
>
> That's what I get for being a nice guy. John's phone service was
> knocked out in yesterdays storm and he asked me if he could use
> my computer to access the web. I've already admonished him to
> use his own service to sling mud. Personally I grew fond of the
> stock sound.
>
> "Better to be occasionally cheated than perpetually suspicious"
>  -BC Forbes
>
> Redondo Ron (who'd never cast aspersions on his beloved klr)
>
>

You should be talkin' to our Dr. Say if you want to talk about the KLR
making noise.  He is the "prince of roar".

Fred   (WHAT DID YOU SAY??!!)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Now what?...
Date: 27 Mar 1999 05:09:24 +1000

Juan Villarreal wrote:

[getting a wheel balancer stand experience]

If the stand is just for holding the wheel while you do a simple
(non-dynamic) balance on the wheel, you may get more value out of
buying on of those high-lift stands for trail bikes, the kind of
stand that goes under the engine bars.
And then you can balance the wheels while they're on the bike, while
having a very useful stand for when you need to do other work on the
bike (like taking the wheels off :-)

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #180
Date: 27 Mar 1999 05:22:37 +1000

Stuart Heaslet wrote:
[...]
> Has anyone had any problems with RTV failures due to age or vibration?

I reckon that overtorquing the camcover bolts is a much bigger worry.
Never had a problem with RTVs yet, even when used on auto exhaust
mainfolds and pipes.

RTV failure on an aero engine? Crystalised bolts? Sounds more like the
bolts were overtorqued.
You'd think a high frequncy vibe due to RTV seal failure would
result in an oil leak and engine failure before the cylinder bolts
would think about giving up.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Rob Heywood <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) inches away from being an owner
Date: 26 Mar 1999 13:42:33 -0500

Well, I just got back from a nice long ride on my 99KLR and I'll tell ya,
it's a dream on the road. Lots of power and pretty comfortable too. Now if
only the wind chill wasn't sub-zero!! Do it, get the bike you will be glad
you did.

Michael Durham wrote:

> Hello all,
>    I've just joined this list mainly because I'm so close to buying a
> klr 650 I can already hear the roar of its engine. I have a few concerns
> first that I'd like some feed back on if you don't mind. Mainly I'm
> buying this bike to tour the country with. I know it's not the best
> street bike, but I plan on visiting quite a few National Forests and
> hopefully many other places a car can't go. Is this bike able to handle
> prolonged long distance driving?
>      I look forward to reading about other topics in this mailing list
> and when I get my bikemaybe I'll get to meet a few of you out on the
> back road!        Thanks- mike




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fw: GS11 - Manufacturing a 7 gallon tank
Date: 26 Mar 1999 11:55:23 -0700

From the GS list - for those in search of more fuel capacity.


-----Original Message-----


>I received the following email from Erospace Technologies, Florida.
>
>> We manufacture composite fuel tanks. We were approached by an owner of a
>> GS1100 who thought there might be a small demand for a 7.0 gallon tank to
>> replace the stock metal one. Is there a way to broach this question with
>your
>> group to determine the need to develop tooling? See them at
>> <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/fuelcel/">fuelcel</A>
>>
>> He said MicaPeak was the
>> place to search, after reviewing your web pages I would have to agree.
>
>When I checked the above URL I found Erospace make lightweight carbon
>fiber/kevlar tanks for Ducatis, Hondas, Kawasakis, Suzukis and Yamahas.
>Prices range from 900-1200 USD depending on model.
>
>I seem to remember a lot of posts from GS11 owners asking about bigger
>tanks.  On the other hand, the Touratech 41 liter (10.8 gallons) seems to
be
>too expensive for most owners at around 1900DM (1200? USD).
>
>So, what do GS11 owners think?  Check out the website yourselves and let me
>know your thoughts on price, capacity etc.  I'll pass the feedback on.
>
>Disclaimer - I had never heard of Erospace before I got this unsolicited
>email from them and have no financial or other interest in this one way or
>the other.
>
>
>Hari
>
>
>=========================
>Dr. Hari Ahluwalia
>Manager
>Technical Writing Dept
>SAS EMEA
>D-69120 Heidelberg, Germany
>Tel: [phone]
>Fax: [phone]
>Email: [e-mail]
>
>    __  O
>   __   |\_\
>__  ==\_7--
>       (o)L-(o)
>
>BMW R1100GS
>=========================
>
>
>
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) clutch not disengaging
Date: 26 Mar 1999 11:17:07 -0800

Don't worry about it, mine does it too - also a new  KLR.  My 1980 KZ 750
did it too.  Even my 97 Valkyrie did it - except that with the Valkyrie,
being the torque MONSTER that it is (you can drive along at 10 mph in 5th
gear) it wouldn't stall.  It was like the motor would say, "yeah right" to
the clutch plates, and in this tug-o-war the clutch lost.

I find that after the bike has warmed up for a couple minutes, I just bring
the rpm's up a bit and work the clutch a couple times - after which I can
drop it into first without stalling.

Arne

-----Original Message-----
Cc: D. Wilder <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>


>I have a brand new KLR with about 50mi on the odometer. I am noticing that
>familiar "clunk" when I drop it into first gear. Is this anything I should
be
>concerned about? Sounds like I shouldn't care too much.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) inches away from being an owner
Date: 26 Mar 1999 11:25:09 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>Hello all,
>I've just joined this list

Welcome Mike.

>Is this bike able to handle prolonged long distance driving?


Yes.

Go to the Dual Sport News web-site at www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/index.html
and all your questions will be answered.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR-Inches away...
Date: 26 Mar 1999 11:27:32 -0800 (PST)

>Is
> this bike able to handle
> prolonged long distance driving?

Well Mike all I can say is this bike has more than
proven itself through the years.  The proof is in
the miles, and there are plenty to be found on
this list.  Major miles through all manner of
terrain.  The highway thing's a goof too.  It'll
hold 75 all day without even breaking a sweat.  I
know of a Canadian fella who logged about 40,000
miles on a brand new '97 in the span of about six
months.  He rode all the way from the Great White
North to Tierra Del Fuego (and back) before
tragically losing his life in what amounted to his
own back yard.  It may not be the ultimate
adventure-tourer (although many on this list would
readily argue the point), but it does rule supreme
when you're talking about the bang-for-the-buck
factor (that point is beyond debate).  The machine
stands ready...  ARE YOU?  I thought so...
Welcome to the cult...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New Bike Questions
Date: 26 Mar 1999 11:33:47 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>Hello to all-
>
>I just purchased a new 99 KLR 650 after selling my 93 Concours.  Whoa, big
>change.


Welcome here.  If your change was "Whoa", I guess then that mine was,
"Whaaaeeeiiiooouuuandsometimesyyy".

Arne  ('97 Valkyrie Tourer - {to a} - '99 KLR650)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR vs. BMW
Date: 26 Mar 1999 14:43:00 EST

I've sort of hated to ask this question but I have to.  What I want to know is
how KLR owners feel that their bikes compare to the F650.  Some things are
obvious, such as  the price difference.  Also the KLR has an obvious advantage
in fuel capacity.  So beyond those obvious things what do you say?  Dealer
support?  Parts availablility?  Aftermarket parts such as luggage?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR vs. BMW
Date: 26 Mar 1999 15:29:07 -0500

You should probably ask Skip Faulkner, the proud owner of a 1999 F650
and staunch supporter of cohabitating F650's and KLR's.

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> I've sort of hated to ask this question but I have to.  What I want to know is
> how KLR owners feel that their bikes compare to the F650.  Some things are
> obvious, such as  the price difference.  Also the KLR has an obvious advantage
> in fuel capacity.  So beyond those obvious things what do you say?  Dealer
> support?  Parts availablility?  Aftermarket parts such as luggage?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tobin Lampson <[e-mail]>
Subject: [Fwd: (klr650) KLR after market plastic.  Need Help]
Date: 26 Mar 1999 13:46:01 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------47EEE0C9E09E791CA7817A3C
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

            Re: (klr650) KLR after market plastic. Need Help
       Date:
            Fri, 26 Mar 1999 01:27:58 -0800
      From:
            Tobin Lampson <[e-mail]>
        To:
            [e-mail]






Darnell,
        Automotive rubbing compound-Fine, elbow grease, three times
over, and
the best pro car wax you can get. After that, a mild car soap that
claims to
not spot when drying. Usually good paint stores who carry auto paint
will have
both the compound and the wax. The soap usually at a pop auto store like
Pep
Boys or Kragen.
        My backup 85' KLR was RE-BORN, suprisingly, after maybe 10 yrs
oxidation.

Tobin(Slide)Lampson

[e-mail] wrote:

>      List,
>
>      Can anyone give me any tips on obtaining after market plastic for
a
>      1992 KLR?  My bike is in need of a cosmetic change (all platic is

>      faded) and I hope that I don't have to go to the dealer in order
to
>      make it "beautiful" again.  I would love to find some blank side
>      panels and then find some "strictly dirt" stickers to give it a
new
>      look.  Does anybody have any tips on rejuvenating plastic or a
vendor
>      who carries after market plastic that will fit the side panels.
(on
>      both sides of the seat and gas tank).
>
>      Thanks
>
>      Darnell






--------------47EEE0C9E09E791CA7817A3C
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en]C-NECCK  (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
References: <[e-mail]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Darnell,
        Automotive rubbing compound-Fine, elbow grease, three times over, and
the best pro car wax you can get. After that, a mild car soap that claims to
not spot when drying. Usually good paint stores who carry auto paint will have
both the compound and the wax. The soap usually at a pop auto store like Pep
Boys or Kragen.
        My backup 85' KLR was RE-BORN, suprisingly, after maybe 10 yrs
oxidation.

Tobin(Slide)Lampson

[e-mail] wrote:

>      List,
>
>      Can anyone give me any tips on obtaining after market plastic for a
>      1992 KLR?  My bike is in need of a cosmetic change (all platic is
>      faded) and I hope that I don't have to go to the dealer in order to
>      make it "beautiful" again.  I would love to find some blank side
>      panels and then find some "strictly dirt" stickers to give it a new
>      look.  Does anybody have any tips on rejuvenating plastic or a vendor
>      who carries after market plastic that will fit the side panels. (on
>      both sides of the seat and gas tank).
>
>      Thanks
>
>      Darnell




--------------47EEE0C9E09E791CA7817A3C--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR vs. BMW
Date: 26 Mar 1999 16:26:10 EST

I suspect that you will find the following to be true in a F650 vs. KLR 650
comparison.

The BMW dealers are, as a rule, far better than the Kaw.
The BMW F650 will have a braod and useful range of better accessories than the
KLR.
The BMW is more powerful and more expensive.
The KLR is a better buy if value is a key measurment.
THe BMW is better if cost is not an object.
The BMW will have easy access to parts  for a longer period of time
The BMW will hold up better and take the mile better (becasue it uses more
costly parts and is more solidly assembled, thus it is more costly)

End of my humble opinion.  Now I'll go ride my Tengai.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR vs. BMW
Date: 26 Mar 1999 14:51:57 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>I suspect that you will find the following to be true in a F650 vs. KLR 650
>comparison.
>
>The BMW dealers are, as a rule, far better than the Kaw.

Well they certainly have nice showrooms!

>The BMW F650 will have a braod and useful range of better accessories than
the
>KLR.

Not sure if I totally agree about this.  For the KLR you can buy
aftermarket: fuel tanks, Fr/Rr suspension components, saddles, heated grips,
hand protectors, bash plates, exhausts, air filters, jet kits, hard and soft
luggage, tires, side protectors, etc....etc....  I am not sure if I can
think of one thing you can get for the F650 that you can't get for the KLR.

>The BMW is more powerful and more expensive.

True, but anyone have a comparison of the HP diff bewteen a KLR with K&N
filter, jet and IDS exchaust vs a similarly modified F650??

>The KLR is a better buy if value is a key measurment.

True and it is setup better as a stock bike for dirt rides.

>THe BMW is better if cost is not an object.

I don't agree.  If cost is not an object I think you can make the KLR into
something equal or better than the F650. But, heck if cost is no option just
buy Richard Sainct's PD bike..=)

>The BMW will have easy access to parts  for a longer period of time

Is this true?  I mean obviously '88 KLR owners are still getting parts.
Does Kawi have set period of time they'll support a bike with parts?  Also
from the chatter on the GS list it sounds like BMW parts are very expensive.

>The BMW will hold up better and take the mile better (becasue it uses more
>costly parts and is more solidly assembled, thus it is more costly)

Definitely don't agree here.  If you listen to the BMW traffic relating to
F650's there is quite a bit more in the way of problems than we see on the
KLR list.  The latest issue I can recall is a problem with vapour lock
causing the bikes to stop running in the rain even though they have gas and
the larger BMW DP bikes seem to have all sorts of bizzare quirks
(problems??) that we don't face with the KLR650.

I could afford (and would) buy a F650 if for a second I honestly thought it
was in anyway significantly better than my KLR650, but so far I haven't come
up with a really good reason to buy a F650

For those in the know: is the F650 any easier or harder to work on for
general maintenance than the KLR?

Cheers,

Vik









-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Arrowhead Motorsports, THANKS!
Date: 26 Mar 1999 17:47:50 -0500

Got my order on Wednesday, as promised. Everything was there, everything fit
great. Installed the Acerbis hand guards, MSR skid plate, White Bros shifter
this afternoon and just got back from a 50 miler (got it inspected while
out) and am impressed with the level of service received.
Fred Hink, from this first order, I think you run a "top-shelf" operation.
....going to the 'site to see what other goodies I "need"...
With very satisfied, NY Thanks,
NY Pete




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR vs. BMW
Date: 26 Mar 1999 17:52:16 EST

In a message dated 3/26/99 1:59:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

> I don't agree.  If cost is not an object I think you can make the KLR into
>  something equal or better than the F650. But, heck if cost is no option
just
>  buy Richard Sainct's PD bike..=)
I like the fact that the KLR is a pretty low tech machine, easy to work on and
understand.  Also I tend to fall down from time to time in rough going and
wouldn't want to be buying Beemer plastics.  It all depends on how you use the
bike, this weekend I will be riding the fire roads in the Santa Lucias above
Big Sur and riding home on Hwy 1.  I've done this on a number of different
machines over the years (more years than I care to be reminded) and no other
bike is as good all round.  IMHO.
Kurt G.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #180
Date: 26 Mar 1999 18:08:23 -0500

At 05:22 AM 3/27/99 +1000, Ted Palmer wrote:
>I reckon that overtorquing the camcover bolts is a much bigger worry.
>Never had a problem with RTVs yet, even when used on auto exhaust
>mainfolds and pipes.
>RTV failure on an aero engine? Crystalised bolts? Sounds more like the
>bolts were overtorqued.
>You'd think a high frequncy vibe due to RTV seal failure would
>result in an oil leak and engine failure before the cylinder bolts
>would think about giving up.

Mister T - I thought it was conflicting, since the fellow said that it was
a catastrophic failure without mentioning any oil leaks.   It happened at
800 hours on the engine, and he seemed more concerned that EACH jug (he
bought 4) cost $US1200.
Stuart



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Acerbis Skid Plate
Date: 26 Mar 1999 18:05:18 EST

I just installed the Acerbis skid plate and it looks pretty good, especially
for $40.00.  It's molded heavy plastic like all their stuff and looks pretty
rugged.  It fully covers the oil drain plug which the stock does not.  It
fastens on with the stock bolt in front and then they supply two hose clamps
to fasten it to the frame rails, instead I put two heavy cable ties on each
side and will simply cut and replace them when its time to change oil and do
the balancer adjustment.  I was about to order the Moose but was swayed by
saving 50%.  It also protects the water pump better than stock.  I was at the
local salvage yard and got the serrated foot pegs off a KLR 600 that they were
dismantling, cost me all of $10.00 and they fit perfectly, I was about to
order the after-market pegs so saved a fair amount today.  A little extra for
my Baja Escape Fund, it looks like I am doing another Baja run in April and
likely again in May.
Kurt Grife



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mark <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) inches away from being an owner
Date: 26 Mar 1999 19:01:27 -0500

I just got back from doing 2,400 miles on the B2 in four days of driving at
sustained speeds of 70-85 mph, and the bike handled it very well. Did 90
mph from the Florida state line to Daytona. That16-tooth front sprocket is
great!
Mark
B2  18,935.6 miles
A2  > 34,000 miles


>
>Michael Durham wrote:
>
>> Is this bike able to handle
>> prolonged long distance driving?






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Chicago area get together
Date: 26 Mar 1999 19:30:25 -0800


Hey guys,
Where the heck is this Highland House I'm hearing about?  Unfortunately, I
probably won't be able to go this Sunday, but just in case my plans change,
can I get directions from somebody on how to get there from Milwaukee?

Thanks,
Carlos



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Chicago area get together
Date: 26 Mar 1999 20:10:08 -0800


Oh yeah, almost forgot,
I am interested in eventually getting a little ride together north of the
border like I mentioned before.  The ride itself would probably take a few
hours (plus or minus one depending on how much we want to do).  So this
would probably be an all day thing if you include a round trip from the
Chicago area.  Sorry for not having specifics yet.  One of these days I'm
going to have to take the ride myself again and time it.  I also need to
look for some restaurants along the way so we can at least grab lunch
somewhere.  I was thinking of doing it on a Saturday as well.

I know Bill (and his group of about 12?) said he was interested, as was
Paul.  Alex and Kenny, do you guys think it is doable for you.  We also
don't have to do the ride all of us at once either. I am free most weekends
so if any of you are around town, or are just itching for a nice ride, just
give me a post a few days in advance and we'll head out ourselves.

I'll let you guys know what I find when I go on the ride again.  Then we'll
plan on a date.


Thanks
Carlos (brand new Gripsters today: it is now officially Spring!!!)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Steve Rottenberg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR See you soon y'all !!
Date: 26 Mar 1999 21:24:47 -0500

List,

    I find myself not having the time I used to have to read all the
messages. So I need to unsubscribe or set no mail, not before reminding you
we have the best mailing list on the web. Very informative, very polite
members, absolutely funny, and overall ... extremely usefull.

    I'd like to thank you for all the problems solved and the advice
given. If you are around Tampa/St. Pete/Sarasota/Orlando some day, and
wanna shoot the breeze and share a brewski or a 'gatorade' send me an email
and we'll do.

    Kurt, please send me the email we got when we subscribed with the
instructions for unsubscribing, or if you want to be the one 'pulling the
plug' ... go ahead !

    Again, thanks a lot and happy riding !!


Steve Rottenberg
Tuca en IRC (Undernet)
Email: [e-mail]
Don't take life so seriously ... it's not  permanent.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR vs. BMW
Date: 26 Mar 1999 21:15:12 EST

In a message dated 3/26/99 3:31:08 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< The BMW will hold up better and take the mile better (becasue it uses more
 costly parts and is more solidly assembled, thus it is more costly) >>
I tried to rent the F650 in Madrid to use for a 2,000 mile weeklong sojourn in
the Med sun. The dealer would not rent me one for that long a ride. We could
only rent the 1100 twin because of the roadside assistance plan on the twins
but not offered on the Funduro. Teutonic arrogance does not necessarily
produce a better motorcycle.frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (KLR650) NKLR-Gunk Chain Lube
Date: 26 Mar 1999 21:35:30 +0000

Any opinions on Gunk Motorcycle (and Farm Equipment) Chain Lube Spray?

First of all I used to use PJ1, but this Gunk product is a whole
different animal and I'm on my third can.

My findings are that it applies like a lightweight liquid wax that goes
on clean and stays clean (contains a mineral oil).  It doesn't build up
a lot of crud like the molybdenum disulphide products and doesn't
attract sand as much.

It seems to adhere well and doesn't fly off like some lubes that can
spot your passengers clothing or baggage.

The only drawback I think is that it has to be reapplied more often
because of its consistency.  Since the chain seems to remain fairly
clean by comparison (though the o-rings look moist), I find that it
needs to be retreated about every three hundred miles depending on rain
or terrain because the links start looking dry.  Most of my riding is
backroad twisties or forest roads....not too much in soft sand.  The
chain life will tell the story for sure.  Just seems to me to be one of
the best kept secrets for motorcycle chain lube or I have missed
something here (not to mention it's cheap at three bucks a can).

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Ken Belfatto" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Chicago area Highland House
Date: 26 Mar 1999 20:45:32 -0600


-----Original Message-----



>Where the heck is this Highland House I'm hearing about?

It's a small resturant that about 5-800 motorcycles converge upon every
Sunday morn.
I almost certain it's at IL RT22 & RT41
You can get there by taking 94 into IL and get off at RT41S (to avoid Slab
riding and toll) or
take 94 to RT22E (paying tolls suck, welcome to Illinois)


>I am interested in eventually getting a little ride together north of the
>border on a Saturdays.
>

Carlos, I'm in. I especially want to visit the Wisconsin Cheese trail
http://www.travelwisconsin.com/activities/atv.shtml

608/776-4048
53 miles of trail and routes in the Shullsburg, Darlington and Gratiot area;
connects with the Cheese Country Trail. Contact Lafayette Co. Zoning Dept.

Just plan it, and give me 2-3 weeks notice. I'll ride anyplace in WI.

Mark you calendar now  (6/11-6/13) for the AMA Super Cycle Classic at Road
America in Elkhart lake, WI http://www.roadamerica.com/ This is a "must see"
Midwest motorcycle thing.
WI  RT67 is a great road to take the whole way.
I get a room on lake Michigan at the Lighthouse Hotel in Two Rivers (50min
from the track).

Kenny S. Elgin, IL
A12 Iron Chariot





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw: Tires
Date: 26 Mar 1999 22:49:22 +0000

Kurt Simpson wrote:
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
> Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 7:45 PM
> Subject: Tires
>
> |Have any listers gone to straight sport touring tires? what brand and what
> |kind of tread life did you get? I'm looking for longer life than off-road
> |capability.


I am happy with the Metzeler ME33 Laser and ME55 Metronic, although the
ME99 may be easier to get.  These tires require a whole different
approach to riding the KLR.  Because of the profile you can fall into
turns much easier and depend on the throttle to pull you out.  It takes
a while to get used to them but you do get used to them.  Even if you're
an experienced Ninja rider the height of the KLR changes the game plan.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alex Jomarron <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) WI ride and BMWs
Date: 26 Mar 1999 20:02:25 -0800 (PST)

Count me in for a ride to Cheeseland!!!
The battery gets reinstalled Saturday. Next I have to order tires, and am
seriously considering some knobby cheap Kendas. Big miles, big knobs, low
bucks, and scary turns.....

As for the F650, I am a loyal BMW guy and had all but signed the contract
on a F650 w/ Acerbis and Jesse's from Gina's BMW in IA. $9k for a single is
a LOT!!!! What turned me off was a. price  b. plastic  c. lack of a 21"
front rim. Like, Vik, I too could have bought the F650. My BMW friends
would have approved. I think the KLR is a better all around bike, there I
said it. Sure BMW has a nice rep for high mileage (my last one had 180k),
but how many of keep our bikes that long?

Ok, now I'm putting on my Nomex suit...bombs away!!


===
Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL USA
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) 16t sprocket
Date: 26 Mar 1999 22:37:21 EST

Hey guys, I am looking for a 16 tooth sprocket. Any suggestions. Also added my
Big Gun (w/sparky), jet kit, and Russell brake line. Care to dance Mr Funduro?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) 16t sprocket
Date: 26 Mar 1999 21:14:17 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Hey guys, I am looking for a 16 tooth sprocket. Any suggestions. Also added
my
>Big Gun (w/sparky), jet kit, and Russell brake line. Care to dance Mr
Funduro?
>
>


And the chorus chimes in...CALL FRED!   16T sprockets are $17.40

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) clutch not disengaging
Date: 26 Mar 1999 23:15:31 +0000

D. Wilder wrote:
>
> With the clutch lever pulled in at a dead stop I put the bike into 1st gear
> and "clunk" it stalls dead like my clutch is not fully disengaging.  I
> adjusted the cable adjusters some but still no change.  I was still able to
> ride but I don't want to hurt the transmission.  Just how screwed am I?

To bad it wasn't a rental!

Are you using the correct oil and or quantity?

Did you adjust the cable enough?

Is this the typical "first time putting it gear for the ride clunk
story" or your KLR just caught some lame disease?

Try adjusting it to the point where there is just a little play on the
fingertips before you feel resistance from the clutch.  In other words
the clutch has to be fully let out to grab but there is a little space
left so the lever is loose.  If the adjuster won't handle the slack then
examine the cable at the attachment point on top of the right engine
sidecase to make sure the screw that holds the bracket on didn't loosen
up.  If it still clunks then hit the up button to the next most
intellegent lister for more advice.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Jus' checkin'...
Date: 26 Mar 1999 23:27:17 +0000

Juan Villarreal wrote:
>
> Hello out there...  Check, check...  Do I have a good
> Yahoo check?
>
> Juan Villarreal
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

Yup....you're hitten with a 10 pounder!  Webe on the boulevard.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mark <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Removing a link on a chain
Date: 26 Mar 1999 23:51:59 -0500

I chopped a 10 link segment off my DID chain using the Dremel-Tool
fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheel.
Mark
B2
A2


>>Thanks for the recent advice about the type of chain to use for the bike.
>>Anyhow, I've gone and bought a EK X-ring. The thing was that the shop only
>>had a chain with 110 links on it. Since it was the same price as a 106, I
>>took it. So, how does one go about grinding off the extra links? Is a file
>>good enough? I'm not really sure how to go about it at the moment. Any
>>help would be much appreciated.
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR Spotting
Date: 26 Mar 1999 23:59:54 -0800

Wowie Zowie...April issue of Cycle Canada has a story called "Sand and True
Grit"...."...When Canadian Patrick Trahan showed up at the starting line for
the Atlas Rally through Morocco aboard a stock KLR, they laughed at him.
But, how was he to know? He'd never raced a bike before....."

This guy found the Atlas Rally on the web and decided to do it.  He bought a
KLR650 because  the rules said the bike had to be stock and legal...he
thought they meant street legal.  He had a bunch of misfortune, but he did
pretty good ....at one point the magazine says.."...the Crazy Cannuk on the
beat-up KLR was attaining legendary status among the rally goers..."

Day 1: he was 95/140
Day 2: he was 75/140
Day 3: he was 65/140
Day 4: broke rear brake pedal
Day 5: melted KLR fan, lost all coolant motor kept going
Day 6: battery crapped out
Day 7: GPS broke - nearly died of dehydration
Day 8: bummed a lift with team KTM

Richard Sainct won on a highly modified KTM.

Not bad a KLR was a brake pedal, a fan, a battery and a GPS away from total
domination of the 1998 Atlas Rally - okay, well maybe with those it would
have finished...=)

Cool story or what.

I will as always scan and post the article somewhere for those KLRistas
interested.

Cheers,

Vik (prepping his KLR for Dakar 2000)





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR vs. BMW
Date: 26 Mar 1999 23:49:26 -0800

Ya.  What Vik said!

Arne - who loves it when people put words in his mouth...




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR - Vik has his new luggage box!  Pics online
Date: 26 Mar 1999 23:20:59 -0000

Well that crazed Canadian has his box on his KLR.  I've got 7 pics and stats
at my page, go to the luggage section.  Contact Vik if you want one, or you
can give him specs for a custom version.

www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: NKLR RTV
Date: 27 Mar 1999 01:39:28 -0700

>List (Skip, maybe?),
>
>Has anyone had any problems with RTV failures due to age or vibration?   I
>just saw a Continental A-65 engine (was on a J-3 Cub) that lost a jug due
>to what the pilot claimed was a failure of RTV, causing high frequency
>vibration, which in turn caused crystallization of the cylinder bolts,
>which then broke.   Granted, this application is on an air cooled engine,
>but wondered if there are any other experiences with motorcycle
>applications.   And it could be that the guy just didn't torque his bolts.
>
>Stuart
>KLR A12
>Juno Beach, Florida
>"Go ahead, torque my bolt."
>

Stuart,
   First, even though some questionable and dangerous A&P`s
sometimes use RTV, it is illegal ( not approved) and in the case of
applications requiring specific torque or high stress
( especially in aircraft engines) it will eventually become compressed,
therefore reducing the torque tension and allowing
play or fretting.
   I am sick and tired of working on customers` engines where some
shade-tree mechanic has done work or a repair and used RTV. You wouldn`t
believe the engine problems, failures and damage that stuff has caused by
over use and finding it`s way into the engine where it has plugged oil
pickup tubes, galleys,
plugged prop governors, turbocharger pressure lines, etc..
It should never be used anywhere on a cylinder or case.
    I`ll tell you what happened. Some lazy, unethical mechanic overhauled
the guy`s engine and in installing the cylinders, used RTV either instead of
or along with the cylinder base seal. Keep in mind that proper tolerances
and and base-nut torquing are critical here. After he torques everything
down ( if he even did THAT ) the engine is put back into service and the
owner flies away. As the hours accumulate and the cylinder is stressed
(being pushed against the hold down nuts) engine heats up, cools down, many
hard cycles of this, the layer of RTV has been compressed ( engine heats
up ) and then pressure released
( engine cools down) the RTV starts to displace and retain it`s compressed
condition. This releases some of the pressure on the base and hold down
nuts. This continues until the nuts are no longer tight and the cylinder`s
operating frequency is a virtual harmonic imbalance and will work harden the
stud nuts because of the play. The studs didn`t crystallize, they were
simply work hardened and became brittle. This also happens on the case
halves and causes increased clearances in the crank and cam bearings.
   I don`t want to hear about "so and so has been using RTV on his car
engines with no problems etc....."    Only in low stress and
non critical-clearance areas should it be used. Like valve covers.
It will just continue to compress and torques are not sustainable where RTV
is used. Gaskets should always be used in stress areas.
   I won`t comment further on why RTV shouldn`t be used in certain
applications, this is a black and white situation and if you check with any
GOOD mechanic, highly experienced with a good reputation, you`ll find they
will NOT use liquid sealers in the joining of stressed components. If they
do, they`re a poor excuse for a mechanic and they`re not helping they`re
customers and I`ll guarantee, in the least , you`ll get leaks. This applies
to not only aircraft, but all engines. If some of you have sealed your
cylinder bases with RTV, when a gasket was called for, I don`t intend to
insult, but you screwed up.
   Stuart, the guy you`re talking about should turn this mechanic in to the
FAA. They`ll stick him good for that, not to mention it will keep him from
endangering the lives of others.

Skip ( who`s apologizes to the List for the use of the soapbox)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Oil leak from the crank case
Date: 27 Mar 1999 12:43:47 -0000

I've just been told by my kawa dealer that I may have an oil leak from where
the crank cases meet.  They have quoted 10 hours labour @ ú40 per hour and
are doubtful whether Kawasaki Uk may cover it under warranty.

This is the second KLR I've had and they've both suffered oil leaks.  I
thought the engine was supposed to be `bullet proof`.  It does make me
wonder about the longivity of big singles.

Would I buy one again?  Mmmmmmmmmm????

Andy




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw: Tires
Date: 27 Mar 1999 12:36:56 -0000

Pirelli MT80's were an excellent road tyre.  They seemed very grippy and did
about 4000 miles with at least another 4000 left in them before  I sold the
bike (though the 4k was done in cold, wet conditions.  I'd expect them to
wear quicker in hotter weather).

I now use a Metzeler ME33 front and MEZ2 radial rear.  The rear is starting
to square off and has only let me down once when I opending it up too much
on a wet bend.  The tyres get pretty hot after a run and I'm looking forward
to throwing the bike around on the grippy summer roads and testing their
grip.

I think I'd buy the Metzeller's again when these wear out though I couldn't
fault the Pirelli's one bit.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Crazed Canadian...NKLR
Date: 27 Mar 1999 05:54:37 -0700



|Well that crazed Canadian has his box on his KLR.  I've got 7 pics and stats
|at my page, go to the luggage section.  Contact Vik if you want one, or you
|can give him specs for a custom version.
|
|www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz


I am speechless...what a tour de force...but, the real story is yet to be told...my sources
tell me that the real reason Vik is coming to Moab (twice this year) is part of an
international smuggling scheme..the details aren't completely clear...it may have something to
do with importing large quantities of Labatt's Longneckers into Utah (a state where the beer is
by law limited to the potency of kool-aid) and, more particularly into Moab...and the return
contraband? this is the real heinous part...it is almost too unbelievable ....Fred's umbrella
girls...

As Mike Meyers once said, "you could mount a weather station on it"....the list has not seen
anything like this...since Dr. Moreau began his work....pray listers...pray....there is madness
among us...(the irony of this is not lost on the author)

Mon Dieu

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) NKLR-Gunk Chain Lube
Date: 27 Mar 1999 08:04:23 EST

In a message dated 3/26/99 8:37:53 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Just seems to me to be one of
 the best kept secrets for motorcycle chain lube or I have missed
 something here (not to mention it's cheap at three bucks a can). >>
Jeff, Does the Gunk chain lube say that it is O ring safe? or is there a
warning about its effect on certain types of rubber? frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) WI ride and BMWs
Date: 27 Mar 1999 08:10:04 EST

In a message dated 3/26/99 10:03:15 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< As for the F650, I am a loyal BMW guy and had all but signed the contract
 on a F650 w/ Acerbis and Jesse's from Gina's BMW in IA. $9k for a single is
 a LOT!!!! What turned me off was a. price  >>
Why not buy two KLR 650s The question is how far will $9000 buy.
Status Symbols are a poor excuse for values. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Indian
Date: 27 Mar 1999 06:25:30 -0700

Indian is making motorcycles again after a long vacation.  They have a new
web page and you can check out the sad part about all of this at:
http://www.indianmotorcycle.com/cafe.html

I just don't get it!  I thought I might like an Indian bike but with this
kind of image promotion, I don't think so.

Sell the bike for what it is.  If the company has this much capital for
advertising just think what they could do with the bike if they used their
money on R&D.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dean Harrison <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Kevin Cameron's Book
Date: 27 Mar 1999 07:16:14 -0800

The cover of Kevin Camerons (technical writer in Cycle World) new book
"Sportbike Performance" should be
 stamped, to plagiarize Abbie Hoffman, STEAL THIS BOOK. It's a necessity

for novice and experienced alike. How many times has some technical
subject
come up on this list where there are lots of different view points and
you don't have a clue which is correct?  We all have misconceptions and
 questions that this book is great at clarifying.  Sportbikes, dual
sports- who cares; they all use oil, brakes, fuel delivery systems.  It
also received  Motorcycle Consumer News' highest review rating. Check it
out, for $20 it's a no brainer.
--
Dean in Seattle 95 VFR, 94 KLR650





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Help....List Notes...
Date: 27 Mar 1999 08:28:00 -0700

As some of you may have noticed every now and then we get messages to the list as follows:

unsubscribe

This is because I'm removed one of the filters for bouncing messages that triggers off a bunch
of key words including "help", "subscribe" "unsubscribe" "umbrella girls" etc. It is a
trade-off, if I put the filter on...it saves the list from people bouncing off the walls trying
to get on or off...but it has two backsides, one it increases the amount of work only I can do
as list admin (no sympathy needed here but each day there are people who abandon an email
account w/o unsubscribing  and ISP errors that have to be gone through to make sure we're
running a clean operation) and second, anytime a person puts in one of those key words the
messages get bounced...so, for example, "I need some 'help' with my valves will bounce...

Long story getting shorter...I want to leave the filter off..which means that we will get
messages like:

unsubscribe

I am not going to respond to those messages...I'm going to ask the list to start educating one
another, so, I would suggest an occasional post to the entire list saying this is how you
subscribe, unsubscribe, and most of the time just sending the poster the following url which
gives all the info they need:

http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page60.html

Thanks for your help and understanding...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: NKLR RTV
Date: 27 Mar 1999 08:01:59 -0800

I won't use RTV either.  For stuff like valve cover gaskets I use
Honda -Bond, its trans mission case sealer, comes in a tube, great stuff.
For gluing engine cases together, back when I did 6 to 12 VW or Porche
engines a week, I would use Hylamar.  Its Rolls Royce jet aircraft engine
cement.  It was the only cement I could fine that would keep a Volksy from
leaking.  They used to say the highest paid guy on the VW assembly line was
the guy that installed the oil leak in every one of them!
I'm sure Skip is familiar with it.  I learned about it from an A&P (now A&I)
buddy of mine.
Skip what do you know about Hylamar?  Fill our studio audience in on the
details.
Morgan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: NKLR RTV
Date: 27 Mar 1999 11:29:31 -0500

At 01:39 AM 3/27/99 -0700, Skip Faulkner wrote:
>   First, even though some questionable and dangerous A&P`s
>sometimes use RTV, it is illegal ( not approved) and in the case of
>applications requiring specific torque or high stress
>( especially in aircraft engines) it will eventually become compressed,
>therefore reducing the torque tension and allowing
>play or fretting.

Thanks Skip.  I did not have any idea of the RTV limitations, nor did I
know of its prohibited use.

Stuart



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil leak from the crank case
Date: 27 Mar 1999 11:35:28 -0500

At 12:43 PM 3/27/99 +0000, Andy Burton wrote:
>I've just been told by my kawa dealer that I may have an oil leak from=
 where
>the crank cases meet.  They have quoted 10 hours labour @ =A340 per hour=
 and
>are doubtful whether Kawasaki Uk may cover it under warranty.

I had my 1998 KLR engine case replaced under the one-year warranty due to a
defect in the casting.  If your bike is under warranty, they should cover=
 it.
Stuart
A12
Juno Beach, Florida USA



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Crazed Canadian...NKLR
Date: 27 Mar 1999 11:40:23 -0500

At 05:54 AM 3/27/99 -0700, Kurt Simpson wrote:

>I am speechless...what a tour de force...but, the real story is yet to be
told...my sources
>tell me that the real reason Vik is coming to Moab (twice this year) is
part of an
>international smuggling scheme..the details aren't completely clear...it
may have something to
>do with importing large quantities of Labatt's Longneckers into Utah (a
state where the beer is
>by law limited to the potency of kool-aid) and, more particularly into Moab.
>
>.pray listers...pray....there is madness among us...(

I fail to see the madness in Vik's mission.  Sounds more like a low-level
mission of mercy to the madness already existing in Moab.  Wish I could be
there.

Stuart



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Crazed Canadian...NKLR
Date: 27 Mar 1999 09:46:34 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; KLR650 List <[e-mail]>


>At 05:54 AM 3/27/99 -0700, Kurt Simpson wrote:
>
>>I am speechless...what a tour de force...but, the real story is yet to be
>told...my sources
>>tell me that the real reason Vik is coming to Moab (twice this year) is
>part of an
>>international smuggling scheme..the details aren't completely clear...it
>may have something to
>>do with importing large quantities of Labatt's Longneckers into Utah (a
>state where the beer is
>>by law limited to the potency of kool-aid) and, more particularly into
Moab.
>>
>>.pray listers...pray....there is madness among us...(
>
>I fail to see the madness in Vik's mission.  Sounds more like a low-level
>mission of mercy to the madness already existing in Moab.  Wish I could be
>there.
>
>Stuart
>
>

HEY!!!  I resemble that remark!

Fred  8</




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Spotting
Date: 27 Mar 1999 08:47:00 -0800

Vic:

Great story! Anybody know if Speedvision is gonna show the Atlas Rally? I
believe they showed it last year, and I'm sure they'd probably do a blurb on
this "crazy Canuck."


--
Rob Gendreau
Oakland, California
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Cheap plastic waterproof panniers
Date: 27 Mar 1999 09:16:45 -0800

How about lightweight (<6 lbs per pair), waterproof, all-plastic, panniers
that hold 4 gallons each? That cost $78US the pair? Check out this guy's web
page.There for bicycles, but the fellow states he does custom fitting work.
Clever idea, he uses food buckets with some hardware added on; he'll also
sell a kit to make your own. Read a story about a cyclist here who uses and
recommends them. Check out: http://olywa.net/leveen/cobbworks.html.

--
Rob Gendreau
Oakland, California
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cheap plastic waterproof panniers
Date: 27 Mar 1999 09:22:24 -0800

OOPS!

The cost for the panniers is $39; he sells a full set (I assume front and
back for a bike) for $78.

--
Rob Gendreau
Oakland, California
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey P Moorbeck <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) WI ride and BMWs
Date: 27 Mar 1999 10:36:32 -0700 (MST)

On Fri, 26 Mar 1999, Alex Jomarron wrote:

> a LOT!!!! What turned me off was a. price  b. plastic  c. lack of a 21"
> front rim. Like, Vik, I too could have bought the F650. My BMW friends
> would have approved. I think the KLR is a better all around bike, there I
> said it. Sure BMW has a nice rep for high mileage (my last one had 180k),
> but how many of keep our bikes that long?
Just out of curiosity why is lack of a 21" rim a bad thing? Is it because
tire choices become limited?

Jeff (who's been toying with the idea of updating to a newer KLR
[currently have an '89] or, gasp, possibly an F650)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alex Jomarron <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) It's aliiiiiiiiiiive!!!!!!!!
Date: 27 Mar 1999 11:12:11 -0800 (PST)

Today the battery went in. I relocated the plate, installed the folding
mirrors and MSR plate (Thanks Fred!)and fired her up! Then I actually
washed it!! My Windy City brethren aren't going to recognize me!!!!
Aaaaaah to be riding the KLR again.
Now I'm off to revive the K75S!
Gee maybe I'll wash her too!

Cheers,


===
Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL USA
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alex Jomarron <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) windy city eggs
Date: 27 Mar 1999 11:16:19 -0800 (PST)

Greeting NE Ill KLRists,
I'm meeting some of BMW buddies at the Main Street Cafe in Wauconda
(GREAT food!) @ 9am Sunday.If you want to eat there and then head off
to the Highland House you're welcome.........

Cheers,




==
Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL USA
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) LAS VEGAS LIST MEMBER???
Date: 27 Mar 1999 15:21:42 EST

Saw a KLR on Pecos and Craig at about 11 this morning,  wondering if it was
anyone on the list.

Don
97 Wing
95 KLR 650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil leak from the crank case
Date: 27 Mar 1999 13:52:38 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>This is the second KLR I've had and they've both suffered oil leaks.  I
>thought the engine was supposed to be `bullet proof`.  It does make me
>wonder about the longivity of big singles.
>
>Would I buy one again?  Mmmmmmmmmm????


Andy,

This hasn't been a significant problem in North America (I can recall one
lister with a problem of an oil leak) except for rock or chains putting
holes in cases.  The fact you have had two bad experiences is ( and I know
this doesn't make you feel any better) statistically insignificant.  You may
have just been unlucky.

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil leak from the crank case
Date: 27 Mar 1999 16:42:22 EST

On 3/27/99, [e-mail] writes: snip

>This is the second KLR I've had and they've both suffered oil leaks.
>I thought the engine was supposed to be `bullet proof`.

 Andy, sorry to hear about the leaks. Were they both the 23L petrol
 tank models, or the 1/2 size tanks that we on this side of the
 pond only get to see on European web sites? I can't tell from
 the pictures if they even share the same engine. Do you, or
 does anyone else know what parts they have in common?

 Redondo Ron A10 (who's crossed many waters to be here)
 Redondo Beach, California



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen Rivett" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil leak from the crank case
Date: 27 Mar 1999 17:53:01 -0500

Oil leaks are easy to fix :)  Just wash the case off with gasoline and put
on lots of silicone, looks kinda bad but does the trick even if all your
cases fasteners are stripped.  Only thing holding oil in my CR250, it's been
apart so many times that the helicoils need helicoils.
Stephen Rivett

-----Original Message-----


>On 3/27/99, [e-mail] writes: snip
>
>>This is the second KLR I've had and they've both suffered oil leaks.
>>I thought the engine was supposed to be `bullet proof`.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR vs. BMW
Date: 27 Mar 1999 18:13:25 EST

In a message dated 3/26/99 2:59:24 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I could afford (and would) buy a F650 if for a second I honestly thought it
 was in anyway significantly better than my KLR650, but so far I haven't come
 up with a really good reason to buy a F650 >>


Well put, Vic.  I would only add the observation that the F650 looks like an
overgrown scooter.

Lloyd
A10
89 NT650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE:(KLR650)NKLR - Guzzi Quota
Date: 27 Mar 1999 18:25:26 +0000

Notice:

If you are interested in a picture and price for the Y2K "Quota"
Moto-Guzzi Dual Sport Machine go to Koups Cycle Shop at

http://www.koups.com/sales/motoguzzi/motoguzzi_quota.htm

or if you are fortunate enough to have a local Guzzi dealer get a
brochure from them.  If a Bavarian Manure Wagon is not your thing then
perhaps.........

Looks really good but a little pricey.  It has the low front fender.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) It's aliiiiiiiiiiive!!!!!!!!
Date: 27 Mar 1999 16:36:10 -0700




>Today the battery went in. I relocated the plate, installed the folding
>mirrors and MSR plate (Thanks Fred!)and fired her up! Then I actually
>washed it!! My Windy City brethren aren't going to recognize me!!!!
>Aaaaaah to be riding the KLR again.
>Now I'm off to revive the K75S!
>Gee maybe I'll wash her too!
>
>Cheers,
>Alex Jomarron
>Oak Park, IL USA


Thanks a lot! Foot of snow last night.

Skip ( who`s not ready to put the snowboard away yet anyway)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  WI ride and BMWs
Date: 27 Mar 1999 16:50:28 -0700

.........................> snip<...........................
>Just out of curiosity why is lack of a 21" rim a bad thing? Is it because
>tire choices become limited?
>
>Jeff (who's been toying with the idea of updating to a newer KLR
>[currently have an '89] or, gasp, possibly an F650)
>
>

Jeff,
   If you`ve ever ridden a 19" front tire bike in the dirt or loose stuff
and then ride it with a 21" front, you could tell the difference. I had both
on my NX650 and the handling difference was very noticeable. The 19" tends
to want to go through the soft stuff whereas the 21" seems to want to go
over it. The 19" also seemed to hit the bumps a little harder, rather than
ride over them.  The rake angle was changed enough to where it appeared ( in
handling) that the C.G. had been transferred forward a little, which made
for a heavier feeling front end. Of course the F650 was designed for a 19"
front, so when I run my wife`s through the paces, I`ll let you know. Correct
me if I`m wrong, but I read somewhere that along with the other numerous
mods done to Sainct`s F650, he specified a 21" front tire.
    Another thing I did notice is that the NX was a little more responsive
on the street with the 19" front.
     Just my opinion and experience.

Skip ( who also prefers the 21" )




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: NKLR RTV
Date: 27 Mar 1999 17:07:11 -0700



>No apology necessary.  Thats good solid info based on
>your experience.
>Q: what is RTV, a brand name??? I swear I wont use it!


>thanx, fred


Fred,
  RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing. It is a product type and is
listed as a Type 1 sealant/adhesive. Many companies manufacture RTV
products. It is a silicone based rubber sealer with various additives to
adapt to different applications. It definitely has it`s uses. Stressed and
torqued applications is not one of them. It was designed for large gaps
where pressure between the mating surfaces was light and flange flexing
occurs. It was also designed originally to be allowed to cure before
assembly.
   For gasket substitution or where clearances are critical and need to
remain stable, there is a product we use in some jet and turbine engine
applications. It is a Polymetric Flange Sealant.
No re-torquing is required as stress relaxation of most PFS`s does not occur
( as it does with RTV ) because it is a thin film and allows face to face
contact of metal.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: NKLR RTV
Date: 27 Mar 1999 17:18:17 -0700

.............................> snip<..............
>I'm sure Skip is familiar with it.  I learned about it from an A&P (now
A&I)
>buddy of mine.
>Skip what do you know about Hylamar?  Fill our studio audience in on the
>details.
>Morgan
>

Morgan,
  Hylamar is a proprietary name for a brand of
PFS ( Polymetric Flange Sealant) which I referred to in the previous post.
It works well and I use it as an assembly adhesive for engine components
because you only use a very thin film that fills in surface imperfections
and doesn`t prevent the mating surfaces from contacting. It allows torque
values to remain stable and doesn`t contract and draw together like RTV type
sealant/adhesives.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR - Moose skidplate question regarding fit
Date: 27 Mar 1999 14:55:21 -0000

Does everyone's Moose have barely more than a human hair worth of clearance
between the skid plate and the engine on the left hand side? I'm referring
to the vertical flange that kicks up from the bottom.  Any comments on this?

TIA
EJ




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mark <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cheap plastic waterproof panniers
Date: 27 Mar 1999 20:26:35 -0500

I made some swell saddle bags out of soft-sided coolers from Sam's Club. I
searched long and hard for just the right coolers. The coolers I found have
a cordura texture and lots of pockets and are made by "Cooltech". I have
$35.00 wrapped up in them. They look great and are durable & waterproof.
I'll post a pic at http://www.personal.psu.edu/mjv2/bags.jpg in a few minutes.
Mark
B2
A2





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) NKLR-Gunk Chain Lube
Date: 27 Mar 1999 20:20:24 +0000

three bucks a can). >>
> Jeff, Does the Gunk chain lube say that it is O ring safe? or is there a
> warning about its effect on certain types of rubber? frank

Frank,

I didn't think of that because other than chemical, fire or health
warnings it didn't say anything about specific chains or limitations.

Anyways....here's what's in it:(CAS means Chemical Abstract Service and
is a number listed in Federal Regulations like SARA, RCRA, DOT, NIOSH,
NFPA, etc...)

1)  Petroleum Distillates (CAS 8052-41-3)
2)  Mineral Oil (CAS 64742-53-6/64742-52-5)
3)  Carbon Dioxide (CAS 124-38-9)
4)  Parraffinic Distillates (CAS 64742650)

It does say to avoid overspray on painted surfaces which would be a
given with any chain lube anyways.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cheap plastic waterproof panniers
Date: 27 Mar 1999 21:01:23 -0500

Amazing!!! Absolutely amazing. Today I was in Walmart, needed new
sneaks.....did the usual "guy thing" (wondered, deliberately) over to
Sporting goods, and there....on the shelfs...... were coolers made by Igloo.
Well that was all the brain needed to see.... check this out, 24 can, 32 can
and 48 can nylon coolers with a hard plastic liner and tray (removable),
heavily reinforced, pockets on the outside, real heavy duty carrying straps,
also same deal on side handles, insulated, if you're gonna' carry food or
drinks.
I said, "hmmmmm, maybe this would be an idea". The 48 can model measures 18"
wide, 10" deep, 13" high. Like I say, it has a plastic box that's removable
inside, sturdy, keeps it's shape. I said, "This would make a great top rack
bag", and let me tell ya', it's perfect, at least for me. Got home, got out
that 8'-0" piece of aluminum 1-1/4 angle stock I had laying around, cut,
notched and bent to make a rectangular (10"x18") frame, mounted it to my
rack using longer bolts and fender washers, and viola', a handy, removable
travel bag and I bet it's nearly waterproof, definitely water resistant.
Tomorrow I'm going back and get 2 of the 24 can models to use as side bags,
they are about 9" wide, maybe 6" deep and about 10" high, perfect as side
bags, especially now that the top rack worked out so good. By the way this
bag cost $19.99. The angle about $4.00 at Home Depot, and my time about 2
hours. Right now I'm using bungie cords to hold the cooler in place, but
will probably get one of those "motorcycle nets" to lash over the whole
thing. As for the side bags, I intend to make add-on rack out of the same
angle and bungie them on too. Everything is removable when not needed, or
being used.
Will scan some pictures when all is finished, if anyone is interested.
NY Pete
-----Original Message-----


>I made some swell saddle bags out of soft-sided coolers from Sam's Club. I
>searched long and hard for just the right coolers. The coolers I found have
>a cordura texture and lots of pockets and are made by "Cooltech". I have
>$35.00 wrapped up in them. They look great and are durable & waterproof.
>I'll post a pic at http://www.personal.psu.edu/mjv2/bags.jpg in a few
minutes.
>Mark
>B2
>A2
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) Arrowhead Motorsports
Date: 27 Mar 1999 21:11:41 -0500

Just a quick note, I think my last e-mail note was "lost" concerning Fred
Hink and Arrowhead Motorsports.
Ordered a couple of items on a Saturday, I think, added stuff via e-mail on
Sunday, (broke parts on Saturday heh heh heh). He verified everything, had
my package in 3 days, as promised. Everything went on perfectly.
Now the "KLAW", the name of my KLR, has Acerbis handguards, so I don't mash
my knuckles so bad, an MSR skid plate, and a White Bros shifter, if I break
this one too, I give up, he he he.
Went bake to "the candy store" to see what else, "I NEED"!!!.
Fred, great service, seems like a "top-shelf" company, will gladly do
business again!
Many NY Thanks, from NY Pete
-




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Moose skidplate question regarding fit
Date: 27 Mar 1999 18:28:45 -0800 (PST)

Eric Jasniewicz asked...

"Does everyone's Moose have barely more than a
human hair worth of clearance between the skid
plate and the engine on the left hand side?"

Eric,

Mine may not have even have that much.  Heck, it
probably touches...  One lister took the time to
pry his outward with a big flathead, but I'm not
worried about mine, as I figure it will still
serve it's protective purpose of dissipating any
blows that land in the area.  My vote is to not
worry too much about it.  Hope this helps...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR (still unbalanced [my
tires that is])
"The Happy Hooligan"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) airMan...NKLR
Date: 27 Mar 1999 19:42:00 -0700

The latest issue of MCN has a small blurb on the following pump called airMan....

http://www.adroitmarketing.com/home.html

looks good....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cheap plastic waterproof panniers
Date: 27 Mar 1999 20:42:45 -0700

.......................................> snip<...................
>Sporting goods, and there....on the shelfs...... were coolers made by
Igloo.
>Well that was all the brain needed to see.... check this out, 24 can, 32
can
>and 48 can nylon coolers with a hard plastic liner and tray (removable),
>heavily reinforced, pockets on the outside, real heavy duty carrying
straps,
>also same deal on side handles, insulated, if you're gonna' carry food or
>drinks.

>NY Pete



Those are the ones that Tim B. is making mounts for, right Kurt.


Skip






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dave Payne" <[e-mail]>
Date: 27 Mar 1999 22:44:47 -0800

    I am a new subscriber to this list. I can see that it offers  a lot of
great information as well as "opinions" on a number of subjects (KLR related
or not!). Hopefully, KLR related. I just purchased a 1999 KLR. I think it's
a  great bike. I do however, absolutely unequivocally without a doubt hate
the break in. I will suffer through it. I have about 300 miles on my new
KLR.
     How did I end up with a new KLR ? I realize this is sacrilege to a few
on this list, but I gave up my 95 DR350SE in order to get a 1999 Kawasaki
Drifter because I am a big Indian fan. Before the Drifter came in, I
realized how  much I loved dual-sport motorcycles. Since I live in Northern
Virginia, and speeds on the Capitol Beltway exceed 70 mph, I bought a KLR. I
also own a 1997 Honda Valkyrie which I will never ever sell.
     I already added a taller windshield and a GiVi topcase to my KLR. I
ordered the topcase through Ralph. Ralph's advice and service is
superlative.

Dave




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil leak from the crank case
Date: 27 Mar 1999 10:39:59 EST

On 3/27/99, [e-mail] writes: snip
   [UK address]
>This is the second KLR I've had and they've both suffered oil leaks.
>I thought the engine was supposed to be `bullet proof`.

 Andy, sorry to hear about the leaks. Were they both the 23L petrol
 tank models, or the 1/2 size tanks that we on this side of the
 pond only get to see on European web sites? I can't tell from
 the pictures if they even share the same engine. Do you, or
 does anyone else know what parts they have in common?

 Redondo Ron A10 (who's crossed many waters to be here)
 Redondo Beach, California



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cheap plastic waterproof panniers
Date: 27 Mar 1999 21:21:29 -0700


|Those are the ones that Tim B. is making mounts for, right Kurt.
|
|
|Skip


Struth!...Obe Wan made the discovery some time ago...he even color coordinates...we'll have to
see if he includes the beer...This new setup will be modular so you can buy any or all of the
different pieces: 1) the SU racks suitable for mounting any kind of fixed storage device
including Touratech's (they have 3/4 tubing in the uppers for those 6 gallon containers); 2)
the inexpensive plastic cooler panniers; 3) a rear tail piece aluminum rack with quick detach;
4) a custom made tail duffel with semi-rigid liner in two sizes huge and large;  and the piece
I'm most excited about..5) sturdy aluminum backrests in two heights...

As of Thursday he was debating developing a trade-in program where you could send him your
regular racks and he would give credit on the SU's. He then would bead blast and re-powder coat
the originals (which he will continue to offer for softside luggage protection) and sell
perhaps for a reduced price...he's not sure it is worth the hassle...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) New to the List...NKLR
Date: 27 Mar 1999 21:39:43 -0700


|    I am a new subscriber to this list. I can see that it offers  a lot of
|great information as well as "opinions" on a number of subjects (KLR related
|or not!). Hopefully, KLR related.

Dave, we're pretty tolerant on this list...except for insults...we ask listers to put NKLR in
the subject line for anything not strictly and narrowly dealing with KLR's this can include
anything from the Tao of oil additives to umbrella girls...

I just purchased a 1999 KLR. I think it's
|a  great bike. I do however, absolutely unequiocally without a doubt hate
|the break in.

I have a '98 and had the same experience last year...I finally just decided to get it over and
drove it up to Idaho and back one cold Sunday never keeping the same speed for more than a 1/4
mile...

|     How did I end up with a new KLR ? I realize this is sacrilege to a few
|on this list, but I gave up my 95 DR350SE i

shame...we love that bike...

|also own a 1997 Honda Valkyrie which I will never ever sell.

MCN had a great review on cruisers in the last issue and the Valkyrie (do you hear Wagner's
music in the background?) was everybody's favorite. It didn't come out quite as well in this
issue's luxury dresser shoot-out it came in 2nd to the new K1200T Beemer (can you believe 52
mpg average?)...is it ture that the Valkyrie can dip into the low 20's for fuel mileage if you
give those six carbs their lead?

|     I already added a taller windshield and a GiVi topcase to my KLR. I
|ordered the topcase through Ralph. Ralph's advice and service is
|superlative.


Good to hear you're having excellent experience with your dealer...soon they will face the
first test...the 500 mile check-up which most dealers have failed...

Welcome,

Kurt Simpson
Salt Lake City




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Arrowhead Motorsports
Date: 27 Mar 1999 19:36:26 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Just a quick note, I think my last e-mail note was "lost" concerning Fred
>Hink and Arrowhead Motorsports.
>Ordered a couple of items on a Saturday, I think, added stuff via e-mail on
>Sunday, (broke parts on Saturday heh heh heh). He verified everything, had
>my package in 3 days, as promised. Everything went on perfectly.
>Now the "KLAW", the name of my KLR, has Acerbis handguards, so I don't mash
>my knuckles so bad, an MSR skid plate, and a White Bros shifter, if I break
>this one too, I give up, he he he.
>Went bake to "the candy store" to see what else, "I NEED"!!!.
>Fred, great service, seems like a "top-shelf" company, will gladly do
>business again!
>Many NY Thanks, from NY Pete
>-
>
>
>

Thanks Pete!

I have been updating my web page and the KLR Parts List today.  Trying to
make things load faster for some of you.  Hopefully soon I will have a new
version of the "Parts List" for you to check out.

I have several new pages, one being my Book Store where you can read reviews
of books and listen to music before you buy them.  If anyone has a favorite
book, video or music, let me know and I will put up a picture of it and you
can read all about it.  I have up now several of the books mentioned on the
KLR list lately and some other goodies too.  You can see my Online Book
Store at:  http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/bookstore.html  (bookmark this
page)  :)

Fred      (Staying close to home so the Jeep Safari jeepers don't run me
over)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Spidi Trans NT Jacket
Date: 27 Mar 1999 22:12:37 -0700

List,
  Since there has been some jacket posts recently, I have to share my joy at
finding a jacket I fell in love with the first time I put one on. I`ve been
looking for a replacement for my aging Kilimanjaro ( which has been an
excellent jacket ) with something a little more waterproof, and with a
heavier fabric. I`ve been looking since last summer and have tried on and
looked at six different brands and styles, without success. I did like
Teknic`s Sprint, but no ventilation. I was about to choose the Darien or
Dainese`s Lillihammer when two weeks ago I was taking the gear out of a
customer`s plane for an auxiliary tank installation, when I saw this cool
looking jacket on the backseat. I pulled it out and realized it had armor in
it. Upon closer examination I realized that it was the same Spidi Trans NT
jacket I`d been trying to get info on from the List several months ago. I
asked the owner what was he doing with a motorcycle jacket in his plane. He
said that he bought it upon recommendation from a friend that has made 6
tours of Africa and South America. Apparently in Europe ( his friend lives
in Germany ) this Trans NT is considered one of the best dual-sport jackets
made. The plane owner rides a modified Yamaha TDM. Said he based it on the
Paris-Dakar bike. He said he had it in the plane because while I was doing
his tank mod, he was planning on spending a few days on the slopes and this
jacket was one of the best snowboarding jackets he`s ever owned. Apparently
he pushes the edge a little and the jacket with armor has saved his bacon a
few times.
   He let me try it on and I was hooked. The armor is hard with a
dual-density foam lining and fits in all the right places. Extremely well
made. All seems doubled and sealed. Arm straps for taking up slack in the
sleeves, especially when the liner is removed. Very warm with the liner in.
Ventilation is good but it`s way to cold to tell how good. Special lining
behind all ventilation zippers to prevent water from entering. Triple wrap
storm seals in the front. Very comfortable collar that seals exceptionally
well. Adjustments on the sides of the back and at the waste to get a good
fit.
   I won`t go into anymore specifics but I ordered the jacket from NW Cycle
( Randy) in Oregon, because MAW said that they wouldn`t take the jacket back
if it didn`t fit or I didn`t like it for some reason because they considered
it a special order. So far I`ve been in the shower with it and had my nephew
spray me down with the water hose on high pressure ( which he thoroughly
enjoyed), for 15 minutes, and no leaks yet. It was 28 degrees and with my
rain pants on, I was warm the whole time. Of course this is not the same as
on a bike in the rain, but it`s a good basic test. My Kilimanjaro didn`t
hold up a 100% to the high pressure hose.
   List was $419, but Randy sold it to me for $369. I won`t post any more on
it, but for those wanting more info, get me off-List.
   As far as quality and features, I`d put it against any jacket made,
including the Darien I borrowed. Spidi is mainly known in the USA because of
all the racers that use their leathers. Well, the quality of their leathers
is also in the fabric jackets. It also just happens to be a cool looking
jacket. Mine is bright yellow and black with silver. I don`t buy my gear for
looks, but it`s nice to have good function WITH good styling.

Skip ( who`s going to be color co-ordinated with his bike
            Kurt, Ron




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V2 #155
Date: 27 Mar 1999 21:39:17 -0800


>After I started wearing my Roadcrafter regularly in the rain here in the
>(regularly rainy) Northwest, I found that there was one spot just a couple
>of inches below the zipper stormflap on my left leg where I was regularly
>getting water entering.  I called Aerostich to ask if they would customize
>the suit by extending the stormflap.  They told me that they could not, but
>recommended liberal application of seam sealer over the zipper tape in that
>region.  Two days later I got, by UPS, a tube of seam sealer from
Aerostich.
>No charge.
>
>I stongly second Vik's recommendation of Aerostich.
>
>Dreas Nielsen
>Issaquah, WA
>
Ah yes, the daily second shower, I mean commute, in the great Northwest.  So
do you get stuck in that huge back up on the I-5 at the Issaquah exit every
day?  I'm so glad that I live in E. WA now where traffic means more than two
cars on the road.


Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650 Fork Oil Volume
Date: 27 Mar 1999 21:42:07 -0800

>>     Does anyone know the relationship between volume of fork oil to oil
>>     level within the fork tube?
>>
>>
>> One ounce of oil will raise the level in the fork tube of a KLR about
1.25
>inches.
>
>Eric Mercer
>B2
>

Is that with the stock springs, or the Progressive springs, which displace
more oil?

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR - More Airman Airpump  info
Date: 27 Mar 1999 23:20:14 -0000

BMW guys reviewed the pump also at:
http://www.ibmwr.org/prodreview/airman.html

You can get this sucker at www.mcparts.com





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (NKLR)  Ah the Navy
Date: 27 Mar 1999 21:51:09 -0800

>
>Obstinate at Sea
>What follows is a transcript of the ACTUAL radio conversation between a
U.S.
>naval ship and Canadian authorities off the coast of Newfoundland.
>
>Canadians:  Please divert your coarse 15 degrees to the south to avoid a
>collision.
>Americans:  Recommend you divert  your course 15 degrees to the north to
>avoid a collision.
>Canadians:  Negative. You will have to divert your course to the south to
>avoid a collision.
>Americans:  This is the Captain of a U.S. Navy ship.  I say again, divert
>YOUR course.
>Canadians:  No I say again, you divert YOUR course.
>Americans:  THIS IS THE AIRCRAFT CARRIER USS LINCOLN, THE SECOND LARGEST
>                    WARSHIP IN THE UNITED STATES ATLANTIC FLEET.  WE ARE
>                     ACCOMPANIED BY THREE DESTROYERS, THREE CRUISERS AND
>                     NUMEROUS SUPPORT VESSELS. I DEMAND THAT YOU CHANGE
YOUR
>                     COURSE 15 DEGREES NORTH.  I SAY AGAIN, THAT'S ONE FIVE
>DEGREES
>                     NORTH, OR COUNTER-MEASURES WILL BE TAKEN TO INSURE THE
>                     SAFETY OF THIS SHIP!
>Canadians:  This is a LIGHTHOUSE. Your call.
>


Ah yes, an oldie but a goodie.  What the story fails to mention is that the
Canadians failed to follow proper radio procedure and identify themselves
during at the start of their transmission.  Proper radio procedures are a
bitch, kind of like when the forward observer in Saudi Arabia sent a
complete barrage into a barracks by saying "Repeat"  instead of "Say Again"
when he didn't understand the last transmission from the fire direction
center.  Repeat means to fire another salvo, with no corrections.  The
forward observer knew that the initial spotting round was off target at
impact, but luckily hadn't caused any major damage.  He was in a panic when
he called   the Fire Direction Center to repeat the coordinates that they
fired.

Roger out.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Homemade Tank Bags/Luggage
Date: 27 Mar 1999 22:05:19 -0800

>I will be constructing tank bags (3way) and side luggage
>(3way) by altering some GI Buttpacks. I was able to buy them
>cheap from a Army/Navy Surplus Store. I got six for about ~$30.
>They are "medium" sized and rugged. They will work nicely
>on mybeloved A13.
>
>The buttpacks will require minimal harnessing modifications.
>These mods. will require some nylon belts (same material as
>seat belts) and a little custom sewing.  Total capital
>investment will be about $45. Labour cost will be N.A. cuz
>I will not charge myself labor. ;-)
>
>If anyone is interested in seeing the final results and/or
>finalize designs, I would be willing to share them with you.
>
>The bags are now colored with typical military O.D.
>green. I will be looking into a way to dye them black
>(if possible). Due to the general paranoia of the American
>Public, I do not recommend hitting the road with this
>luggage in its original colour and markings. The afore
>mentioned paranoid masses will think you are a militia kook.
>
>The final result will have two buttpacks draping over the
>sides of the tank with one buttpack sitting between and on
>the seat and gastank (3way-front). The rear will have
>two buttpacks draping over the side plastic (and avoiding
>the tail pipe) with the center buttpack sitting on the
>luggage rack.
>
>I am all ears for your opinions/suggestions.
>
>


I am very interested in hearing how your project turns out, and might be
interested in getting this set up for myself.

One thing though.  You have to make sure that you use the older canvas butt
packs, and not the newer nylon ones.  The older ones are MUCH more durable
and waterproof.  The nylon buttpacks would tear at the drop of a hat in the
field if you ever put anything metal or hard or abrasive in them.  (Been
there, done that, lost my rifle cleaning kit and an MRE in the field.)  The
canvas will tear too, but at least it can be re-sewn.  When you try to sew
the nylon it just frays and comes apart again.

Also, the straps for the butt pack flap have metal tips on them, and unless
taped or tied down will flap around and scratch the paint in the wind.
Maybe ditch the straps as they are, and put Fastex buckles on instead?
You'd have to leave plenty of slack in them though, to accommodate the bag's
load size, plus you can slip stuff too big to fit in the bag under the
straps and cinch them down.

Boy, you'd be amazed how much gear a GI can fit in his butt pack....I always
kept mine so I could live in the field for a couple of days with it alone,
plus have room for my NVG's....BTW, maybe I am a militia kook!  (NOT).  But
seriously, its a damn shame that I can't wear some of my best gear in
public.  Next thing you know, some peacenic is protesting.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Spidi Trans NT Jacket
Date: 27 Mar 1999 22:58:42 -0700


|jacket. Mine is bright yellow and black with silver. I don`t buy my gear for
|looks, but it`s nice to have good function WITH good styling.
|
|Skip ( who`s going to be color co-ordinated with his bike
|            Kurt, Ron


color yes but pattern? where are the flames...?

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR - Pics from Tom Grenon of the KLR Canol Road article
Date: 27 Mar 1999 23:37:31 -0000

Well I got a surprise yesterday.  The individual responsible for the Canol
Road article sent me an email!  He gave me some cool pics that I threw on my
site if you're interested.  I directed him to the KLR News page and mailing
list, so hopefully he will be one of us soon.  He is looking for some people
to go to the Canol Road again this August if anyone is interested.  Contact
him at [e-mail]  He resides in British Columbia and is looking for
more DS'ers, so give him a yell.

www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz
go to "Picture Pages"




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (NKLR)  Ah the Navy
Date: 27 Mar 1999 22:57:42 -0800


-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>>Americans:  THIS IS THE AIRCRAFT CARRIER USS LINCOLN, THE SECOND LARGEST
>>                    WARSHIP IN THE UNITED STATES ATLANTIC FLEET.  WE ARE
>>                     ACCOMPANIED BY THREE DESTROYERS, THREE CRUISERS AND
>>                     NUMEROUS SUPPORT VESSELS. I DEMAND THAT YOU CHANGE
>YOUR
>>                     COURSE 15 DEGREES NORTH.  I SAY AGAIN, THAT'S ONE
FIVE
>>DEGREES
>>                     NORTH, OR COUNTER-MEASURES WILL BE TAKEN TO INSURE
THE
>>                     SAFETY OF THIS SHIP!
>>Canadians:  This is a LIGHTHOUSE. Your call.
>>
>
>
>Ah yes, an oldie but a goodie.  What the story fails to mention is that the
>Canadians failed to follow proper radio procedure and identify themselves
>during at the start of their transmission

Actually, the Canadians in this case followed proper radio procedure in this
case.  Rule 1223.122a CDN Coast Guard Communications Procedures - clearly
states have a laugh whenever possible especially when arrogant US Naval
Officers are involved.

=).....before anyone gets there undies in a knot...lol...I love Americans!

Cheers,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (NKLR)  Ah the Navy
Date: 27 Mar 1999 22:31:36 -0800



>Hehe, the Americans dared go back to Canada?  When my friends were in the
>multinational wargames, possibly in Newfoundland, they had it pretty damn
>easy.  They forced a personnel carrier to stop in an ambush and "killed"
>every single one of the Americans as they climbed out in single file.  It
>was during the day too...I'd love to see what would have happened if it was
>dark out since Canada is one of the only countries to train troops for
night
>warfare.
>
>Stephen Rivett
>
About the stupid track heads;.....yeah, well, they serve a purpose, drawing
fire from the real infantry.

About night fighting;....Are you smoking dope?  In eight years, I can count
the daylight operations I've been on on my fingers.   (Out of hundreds of
operations.)  Hey, I've trained plenty of Canadian infantry.  Infantry
fights at night, period.  Moving without the cover of darkness is suicide.
The canucks were pretty good navigating at night, but when it came down to
the assault, a Ranger squad, equipped with NVG's and PAS 7 boresighted
infrared lasers on their weapons is a surgical instrument.  The Canadians
didn't have the dollars, and thus didn't have the gear.

Trained to fight at night....I haven't had regular sleep patterns for eight
years.  I can't sleep through the night anymore.  I don't go out in the
daytime with out my sunglasses, to preserve my night vision.  I'm a freaking
vampire.  Am I special?  No.  I'm just like anyone else who's been through
Ranger School, and the repercussions are popping up more and more.  Besides
my generally screwed up sleeping habits (around less than 4 hours per night,
couple of 5-10 minute power naps in the day), I'm finding that I now have a
weight problem due to my forced starvation during Ranger School.  I went
from 210 lb.. before, to 182 after.  My head even shrunk a hat size.  Now
I'm pushing 235, because of my screwed up metabolism.  I'm no longer
training as hard, and for a while my caloric intake was just as high....need
to run more, but I'd rather ride.

Hey, back to the issue.  I've trained with troops from all over the world,
and the only ones that truly impressed me were the Gurkhas and the
Fijians...With the Brit's SAS and the Israelis a close second.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I dare you...
Date: 27 Mar 1999 22:43:46 -0800

>Now, start the bike...remember you have held back 10 ounces but the sight
glass is full. Start
>the bike and let it warm for a moment or two. Now, shut it off, pretend
you've just come to a
>gas station and you want to check your oil. You decide to go to the
bathroom, get a soda, eat
>some peanuts...all the while letting your oil settle. Now go look at the
sight glass. It will
>be about 1/4 inch below the top mark. Don't do anything. Now let the bike
sit for an hour or
>two. Come back. The oil will be at the top of the sight
glass..full...right? But what about the
>10 ounces you haven't added to bring the amount you've added to the factory
recommended 2.5
>liters?
>
>So, for those who don't pay any attention to the 2.5 liters but use the
sight glass at least
>you are being consistent. You are disregarding the factory recommended
refill of 2.5 and adding
>2.2 instead.
>
>For those who use the 2.5 and then keep it at the sight glass from then on.
You are using 10
>ounces of oil between oil changes and then keeping it at the 10 ounce low
point until your next
>oil change.
>
>My bike reaches the sight glass at 1500 miles so it is using about 5 ounces
every 750-1000
>miles...so, I need to add that amount to stay at the 2.5...
>


So after adding your 2.5 liters, what if instead of running your 1500 miles,
you drain the oil right out immediately, measuring how much you get out.
I'm curious to know if you can truly drain out 2.5 liters, or does some
remain in the case and not drain, say .3 liters worth?

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Trip Report: Andres Carlstein...
Date: 28 Mar 1999 00:00:14 -0700



|Miami, March 28, 1999
|
|This is the first official installment of my trip e-mails.  I have
|completed 1,500 miles of my journey, and picked up a couple of sponsors
|along the way.  It has been my pleasure to have been interviewed by the
|wonderful people at the Miami Herald, and by two very nice US
|correspondents for a radio show in Cordoba and a magazine in Argentina
|called "Semanario."
|
|On March 19, the first day of my trip, I logged about 550 miles, and on
|the second day I added another 650 miles.  By the time I reached
|Daytona, I was ready for some relief.  Fortunately for me, the Corbin
|retail shop in Daytona beach was able to provide me with a new saddle,
|which will hopefully make the space behind my bars a nicer place to live
|for the next 16 months.
|
|>From Daytona to Miami, I flew on 95 at about 90 mph (people were still
|passing me!), and made it here in record time.  While in Miami, Kawasaki
|came through for me big time, and I am very happy to have their support
|for my trip.
|
|I don't have much else to add right now, and since I am late for my date
|with the washing machine, I need to get going.  To make matters worse, I
|still need to repack all my bags.  I intended on leaving tomorrow around
|9:00am, but I suspect I may run a little late (a Carlstein tradition).
|But who cares, I am supposed to be on vacation, right?
|
|Andres
|
|______________________________________________________
|Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
|




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dreas Nielsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) RE: Rainy Northwest (NKLR)
Date: 27 Mar 1999 23:28:28 -0800

> From: Jeff & Lisa Walker [mailto:[e-mail]]
>
> >After I started wearing my Roadcrafter regularly in the rain here in the
> >(regularly rainy) Northwest, I found that there was one spot
<SNIP>
> >Dreas Nielsen
> >
> Ah yes, the daily second shower, I mean commute, in the great
> Northwest.  So
> do you get stuck in that huge back up on the I-5 [I-90 DN] at the Issaquah
> exit every
> day?  I'm so glad that I live in E. WA now where traffic means
> more than two
> cars on the road.
>
> Jeff
>

The weather's actually been pretty decent lately--there have been two days
in the last two weeks that I didn't get rained on either coming or going.

I usually avoid the backup at the Issaquah Front Street exit and head east
on I-90 to Route 18, then back southeast on 18 to the Issaquah-Hobart road,
and then north a little bit.  It makes my commute 26 miles instead of 14,
but it doesn't take any more time during rush hour (80 mph most of the way)
and the scenery is nicer.  This last Friday evening the lineup on I-90 at
Front Street was more than a mile long, and even though it was raining hard,
I decided to go the long way around (I often avoid the longer faster run in
hard rain because it's more likely to soak the air filter).  (But a good
reason to avoid the Front Street lineup is that three years ago, while
stopped at the end of the line in my car, I was rear-ended by a woman going
50+ mph in her SUV while talking on her cell phone.)  Of course, the long
route is uphill all the way until you get over the Tiger Mountain summit,
and by the time I'd gotten to Route 18 on Friday the rain had turned to
snow...with a lot of elevation gain still to come.  After a mile or so on
Route 18, I was having to wipe my visor every 30 seconds just to see--the
snowflakes were big and wet and sticky.  Well before Tiger Summit I was
riding through rapidly accumulating snow on the (wet) road, doing only 45,
and was not really liking to take my hand off the bars to wipe my visor.

It's been snowing here at home all day today (Saturday), and the daffodils
aren't looking too happy about it.  Such is Spring motorcycling in the
Northwest.  Just a week ago, though, it was sunny and 70 F--all the cruisers
made their first appearance of the year.

Dreas Nielsen
Issaquah, WA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) Oil Again
Date: 27 Mar 1999 23:14:56 -0800

Here is an interesting link to a couple more articles about oil in general,
and motorcycle specific oil. The first article covers some of the (very)
basics for those of us, myself included, who need a refresher.
http://tempest.ece.uiuc.edu/~cburian/mc/oil/

Maybe Skip can do a quick QC so as to ensure the basics are at least
accurate! (its sooo nice to have an expert on tap!)

---rik rapidly approaching 1K on the lucky 13.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  Army vs Navy
Date: 28 Mar 1999 00:11:21 -0800

>>Two army soldiers boarded a flight from Dallas to Atlanta.  One sat in
>>the window seat and one in the middle seat.  Just before take off, a
Sailor
>>got on the plane and took the isle seat next to the two soldiers.  Right
>>after take off the Sailor kicked off his shoes, stretched his legs and was
>>settling in when the soldier in the window seat said, "I think I'll get
>>up and get a Coke".
>>
>>"No problem",  said the Sailor.  "I'll get it for you".
>>
>>While he was gone, the soldier picked up one of the Sailor's shoes and
>>spit into it. When the Sailor returned with the Coke, the other soldier
>>said "That looks good, I'll get one too".
>>
>>Again the Sailor obligingly went to fetch another Coke for the second
>>soldier and while he was gone the soldier picked up the Sailor's other
>>shoe and spit into it.
>>
>>The Sailor returned with the second Coke and they all sat back and
>>enjoyed the rest of the flight.  As the plane was landing, the Sailor
>>slipped on his shoes and knew immediately what had happened.
>>
>>"How long must this go on?" the Sailor asked.  "All this inter-service
>>rivalry?  This fighting?  This animosity?  This spitting in shoes and
>pissing in >Cokes?"..........................
>
>

Gave me a good chuckle, thanks!  BTW, its not just inter-service rivalry,
but intra-service as well...I've seen Airborne fight with "Legs", Rangers
versus Light Infantry, Infantry versus Tankers, on and on.  Its all pretty
stupid and pointless really.  Once while out with the fellows and the wives
to a GI bar I found myself in the middle of a brawl between us Airborne
versus the "nasty legs".  Once the legs were out, the other Airborne turned
on us Rangers.  I was just trying to keep out of the line of fire, and
extract the wives, when this joker ran up and hit me with all he had.  I
looked over at him, a little pissed at this point, and asked him "Why the
f--- did you do that?".  He then turned and ran away, the coward.  So there
I was, in the middle of a huge brawl, straight out of a western movie, and
all I could think about was how pissed I was that my beer got spilled and my
pool game ruined, and how stupid it all was.  Anyway, rallied the troops at
the cars and successfully escaped and evaded as the police shut the joint
down.  Shity way to end the evening.  I never could see the logic of getting
stupid drunk, then picking a fight with somebody who belongs to a different
group than yours, cheap entertainment for the ignorant I guess.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) Not So Slick 50
Date: 28 Mar 1999 00:44:47 -0800

>I've never been an advocate of oil additives, but my father has always been
>an STP user.  He has two trucks on his farm that he bought new and always
>put STP in at every oil change (3000 miles).  His 67 Ford has 350,000+
miles
>and still runs (no quite sure how good) with no engine rebuild.  His 79
Ford
>has 200,000+ miles and is used daily.
>
>Gino


Couldn't the longevity be due simply to the regular oil changes?  I had a
Jeep Wagoneer I used as a work truck that had over 278,000 miles on it and
was still running strong when I sold it.  About a quarter of those miles
were off road.  I was very good with changing the oil on time.....Always
warming it up in the morning, and all of that.  That rig saw it all, heavy
trailer towing, mud bogs, sand storms, endless stop and go traffic.  I sold
it because it was rusting out, and needed new ball joints.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Weight?
Date: 28 Mar 1999 01:19:28 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_01F9_01BE78B9.064DD6C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    How about an easy one--no oily research, no brake theory hand =
wringing, no nuthin'....
    =20
    What is the true wet weight, empty tank, of the KLR 650?
    =20
    Rick (137lbs, after dinner tonight)
   =20
    At what altitude are we talking about the weight?  It changes with =
altitude you know....We should be asking about the mass, which never =
changes.   Sorry, couldn't resist the physics point of order.
   =20
    Jeff

------=_NextPart_000_01F9_01BE78B9.064DD6C0
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>How about an easy one--no oily =
research, no=20
    brake theory hand wringing, no nuthin'....</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>What is the true wet weight, =
empty tank, of=20
    the KLR 650?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Rick (137lbs, after dinner=20
    tonight)</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>At what altitude are we talking =
about the=20
    weight?  It changes with altitude you know....We should be =
asking about=20
    the mass, which never changes.   Sorry, couldn't resist =
the=20
    physics point of order.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>Jeff</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_01F9_01BE78B9.064DD6C0--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil leak from the crank case
Date: 28 Mar 1999 00:49:56 +1000

Andy Burton wrote:

> I've just been told by my kawa dealer that I may have an oil leak from =
where
> the crank cases meet.

Only "may" have a leak?

> They have quoted 10 hours labour @ =A340 per hour and
> are doubtful whether Kawasaki Uk may cover it under warranty.

So the bike is still in warranty? Then Kwak UK should pay for it.
Out of all the jap bikes I've had, new and used, none have ever
leaked from a crankcase join.

> This is the second KLR I've had and they've both suffered oil leaks.

Oil leaks from the waterpump I can understand, crankcases not.

> I
> thought the engine was supposed to be `bullet proof`.  It does make me
> wonder about the longivity of big singles.

What distance do you have on yours so far?

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (NKLR)  Ah the Navy
Date: 28 Mar 1999 04:49:39 EST

And here all this time I thought it was only us jarheads who followed this
rule.
:-)

 Rule 1223.122a CDN Coast Guard Communications Procedures - clearly
states have a laugh whenever possible especially when arrogant US Naval
Officers are involved.

Don
97 Wing
95 KLR 650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Arrowhead Motorsports
Date: 28 Mar 1999 08:20:16 EST

In a message dated 3/28/99 2:10:24 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Ordered a couple of items on a Saturday, I think, added stuff via e-mail on
 Sunday, (broke parts on Saturday heh heh heh). >>
It's great to break it on Sunday and have it ready for Saturday bashing again.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark Machin" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR "Tricks of the Trade"
Date: 28 Mar 1999 05:44:52 -0800

Being new to the "dual sport" world, I was wondering if there were some
inexpensive  mods KLR owners have found useful for their machines.  I'm
talking mods that don't require ordering aftermarket replacement parts, but
rather making the stock bike better.  I have reviewed the Dual Sport/Thumper
pages and several of the owner pages (Tom, Eric) and am looking for small
improvements not listed.  Examples would be what I just completed, such as
replacing the frequently used body screws with stainless hex head screws or
applying silicon to the rear light wiring opening under the fender to
prevent corrosion in the lens assembly.  Any suggestions or recommendations
would be appreciated.

Mark
A13





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Alternative storage
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:59:08 +0000

Mike Magier wrote:
>
> I haven't physically compressed the forks fully, but my trusty eyeball tells
> me there is more than adequate clearance. I think a 6" tube (as someone else
> suggested) would be cutting it dangerously close.
> Mike Magier (if I have 2 bikes, does that mean I get to ride twice as
> often?)
> ----------
> > From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
> > Subject: Re: (klr650) Alternative storage
> > Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 21:58:27 +0000
>
> <snip>
> >see if there are any other configurations.  One thought that did cross
> >my mind though is if the front wheel gets fully compressed will there
> >still be enough clearance between the tire and the frame mounted tube.
> <snip>


How's the road test been going with your new invention?

Also....one can never have too many bikes, just too little time.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil leak from the crank case
Date: 28 Mar 1999 10:13:23 +0000

Andy Burton wrote:
>=20
> I've just been told by my kawa dealer that I may have an oil leak from =
where
> the crank cases meet.  They have quoted 10 hours labour @ =A340 per hou=
r and
> are doubtful whether Kawasaki Uk may cover it under warranty.
>=20
> This is the second KLR I've had and they've both suffered oil leaks.  I
> thought the engine was supposed to be `bullet proof`.  It does make me
> wonder about the longivity of big singles.
>=20
> Would I buy one again?  Mmmmmmmmmm????
>=20
> Andy


Andy,

What concerns me is that the dealer said you "may" have a leak there.=20
Wouldn't you think they would have dried/cleaned everything off and then
put it through a run to see where fresh oil was definitely coming from?

Chain oil or an oil plug that doesn't have the metal washer on it can be
a source of surface oil deposits. =20

I lost track of what model you have...is it brand new?  If so I'd write
a letter to Kawasaki and let them know the problem because if that is
the case (no pun intended) then I'd think they would pick up the tab.  I
have always given Kawasaki (as a corporation) an A+ in customer support
which goes above and beyond the local dealership level.  I would let
Kawasaki have an opportunity to respond to your dilemma.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (KLR650)NKLR650-AMA Super Ride
Date: 28 Mar 1999 10:33:33 +0000

Notice:

For riders in the northeast there is an AMA sanctioned event called the
Connecticut Super Ride that will be May 7 to the 9th.

Check it out at http://www.superide.com/

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR "Tricks of the Trade"
Date: 28 Mar 1999 08:50:15 -0700

>Being new to the "dual sport" world, I was wondering if there were some
>inexpensive  mods KLR owners have found useful for their machines.  I'm
>talking mods that don't require ordering aftermarket replacement parts, but
>rather making the stock bike better.

Interesting question Mark...one that has never been posted to the list. Here is my
list:

1) Adjust the fork tubes in the triple clamps...I run mine 1/2+ up and like it a great
deal for handling without sacrificing travel...

2) Fill the handlebars with a latex caulk...

3) Locktite many nuts and bolts...

4) Relocate the license plate

5) Remove some air (be careful) when going offroad..

5) Vent the airbox from the top or remove the sidecover

6) drill out the pilot jet plug and let the pilot get a little more fuel...listers
have also drilled out the main with some success..

7) pay special attention to preload and dampening adjustments on the rear shock and
find the settings that work for you...(I bet only 1 in 20 KLR owners know where the
dampening adjustment is)

8) dismantle neutral and safety sidestand switches...

9) remove emissions equipment

10) open up the exhaust...check the archives as this is pretty fresh..Mr. T and Dr. M
are working on this right now...

11) increase the size of the wires going to the headlights...see Dr. M's and Dr. Tom
Simpson's mods in the archives..

12) change your fork oil and experiment with different weights...change the height of
the spacer above the spring...

14) add the wrench you need for the front axle nut to your tool kit...

That is a start.....

Kurt





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mark <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR "Tricks of the Trade"- Fuel Mix
Date: 28 Mar 1999 11:19:40 -0500


>
>6) drill out the pilot jet plug and let the pilot get a little more
>fuel...listers
>have also drilled out the main with some success..
>

I installed an IDS Quiet with12 discs, K&N filter, turned the pilot screw
out to 3 1/2 turns and drilled the main jet with a #54 drill bit. The bike
ran great but still a little lean when I did a quick snap on the throttle
at 5000 RPM in fifth gear. So, I drilled the main jet with a 1/16" drill
bit. There was a mild improvement, but it still seems a bit lean. How can I
deliver more fuel to the engine? Do I need a new needle jet? I don't want
to sacrifice airflow to richen.
Thanks,
Mark
B2 (heavy breather)
A2





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:15:01 -0700

A couple of items I included in my kit on the recent outing that are winners...

1) a candle lantern...worked great...warms the soul....

2) a very thin stainless steel thermos...Jake loaned me his to try out and I'll never
go out w/o this...you heat your coffee or cocoa...put it in your thermos and it stays
nice and hot throughout the morning ablutions

3) a plastic garden trowel...shovels required in national parks...this worked...

4) my 25 year old SVEA stove worked great...noisey but kept me company...

5) the leatherman...what can I say...its a classic..

6) my Browning folding saw..no weight, very effective not a playtoy...could have been
used by the guy in Fargo

7) one of those nylon devices that take your thermarest and make it a chair...(Jake's
ridicule)..everyone's envy...as I sat there in cradled comfort watching the sun go
down...

8) compression sacks..they reduce bulky items to practically nothing..

9) a duffel ... I thought I would make a nice tight pack on the tail but I didn't
count on the need to layer and unlayer...the duffel pulled everything together and I
packed everything in watertight dry bags inside it...

Adding to the kit after the trip:

1) "the Absorber" a synthetic chamois that takes up no space..works in place of a
towel and stores damp in its own container...solves the problem of what to do with wet
towels when needing to hit the road...very packable...

2) a flashlight the clips to the hat or headband for working around camp...I used to
have one of these on ski patrol..don't kinow where it went..

3) better stakes...the ground was packed gravel/rock and the stakes simply didn't
work...suggestions?
....
Other thoughts. Tents...the GS list just raged on tents and people were claiming that
TNF tents leaked, I can't believe that if they were seam sealed...they were lobbying
for the Aerostitch poster boy Biblers...one skin..no fly..but nothing cheaper than
$650...I disagree...I use a Eureka Summit with a fly and an optional
vestibule..finally can get quality tents for under $300 and now we have to pay
$700...give me a break (sorry for the rant)...

Sleeping bag: I used TNF Cat's Meow ...works great...treated myself to the extrawide
extralong thin thermarest (had to endure Jake's ridcule "all you need is hip length).

Kurt







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR "Tricks of the Trade"- Fuel Mix
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:22:39 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>
>>
>>6) drill out the pilot jet plug and let the pilot get a little more
>>fuel...listers
>>have also drilled out the main with some success..
>>
>
>I installed an IDS Quiet with12 discs, K&N filter, turned the pilot screw
>out to 3 1/2 turns and drilled the main jet with a #54 drill bit. The bike
>ran great but still a little lean when I did a quick snap on the throttle
>at 5000 RPM in fifth gear. So, I drilled the main jet with a 1/16" drill
>bit. There was a mild improvement, but it still seems a bit lean. How can I
>deliver more fuel to the engine? Do I need a new needle jet? I don't want
>to sacrifice airflow to richen.
>Thanks,
>Mark
>B2 (heavy breather)
>A2
>
>
>
>

Sounds to me like you should try raising your needle.  Either shim up your
needle with some small washers or use the KLX needle.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR "Tricks of the Trade"
Date: 28 Mar 1999 11:26:23 EST

In a message dated 3/28/99 3:54:58 PM !!!First Boot!!!, [e-mail]
writes:

<<  bet only 1 in 20 KLR owners know where the
 dampening adjustment is) >>
well where is it, enlighten us please



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR "Tricks of the Trade"- Fuel Mix
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:32:16 -0700


>I installed an IDS Quiet with12 discs, K&N filter, turned the pilot screw
>out to 3 1/2 turns and drilled the main jet with a #54 drill bit. The bike
>ran great but still a little lean when I did a quick snap on the throttle
>at 5000 RPM in fifth gear. So, I drilled the main jet with a 1/16" drill
>bit. There was a mild improvement, but it still seems a bit lean. How can I
>deliver more fuel to the engine? Do I need a new needle jet? I don't want
>to sacrifice airflow to richen.


check the archives for the poor man's jet kit...also, I think we've had listers that
have gotten by with shimming the needle...I thought mine was running too lean but it
was too rich with the same symptoms...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR "Tricks of the Trade"
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:34:17 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>


>In a message dated 3/28/99 3:54:58 PM !!!First Boot!!!, [e-mail]
>writes:
>
><<  bet only 1 in 20 KLR owners know where the
> dampening adjustment is) >>
>well where is it, enlighten us please
>
>

Just to be a "smart ass" the KLR doesn't have a dampening adjustment.....

The KLR has a damping adjustment and it is located just below the bottom of
the spring.  There are 4 positions with the no. 2 being standard.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR "Tricks of the Trade"
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:36:52 -0700

><<  bet only 1 in 20 KLR owners know where the
> dampening adjustment is) >>
>well where is it, enlighten us please


I never thought you'd ask...(g) it is on the right side...you have to get down on the
ground and "love it up"...it is on the bottom of the shock body hidden behind a little
black clip that you have to pry out to get at the adjuster...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR "Tricks of the Trade" NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:41:21 -0700


>Just to be a "smart ass" the KLR doesn't have a dampening adjustment.....


oh Peggy, what have we unloosened? He has become a study in erudition...I still liked
him better when he was a good old boy...old "8-track"...

Kurt (confessing that he didn't know the difference between prostate and prostrate
until he hit 45 and had trouble with both..)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:23:45 -0800



3) better stakes...the ground was packed gravel/rock and the stakes simply
didn't
work...suggestions?
------
I recently moved my LL Bean 2 man tent (Eureka) into the Truck and started
using REIs NightLite w/ rainfly. Not as bulletproof... but quite light,
packable, room for the dog, and a beautiful view of the sky when the weather
permits.
For stakes I carry 5 of the zinc coated railroad spikes (damn near!) and 4
of the minimalist pegs (NOT the aluminum alloy ones that won't skewer a loaf
of bread). My rationale is they may be big and heavy, but this is one
sacrifice I'm totally prepared to make. When the wind picks up in the middle
of the night, you can rest easy knowing you are anchored down solid. And
there are no longer any worries about broken or bent pegs, just find the
biggest implement and pound 'em in! I've found I don't often need the big
guns all the way around, thus the standard pegs.

How do the locals anchor their tents in Moab? The last time I was at Slick
Rock I woke with my tent collapsed around me and was chased by a HUGE
centipede. What the hell is up with those things???

Rik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:27:37 -0800

<snip>
3) better stakes...the ground was packed gravel/rock and the stakes simply
didn't
work...suggestions?

Kurt- I use a really sturdy and sharp stake from Texsport
http://www.texsport.com
They're a galvanized nail that's 10" X 5/16" with a plastic dodad that
slides onto it with a hook and a hole for attaching your lines.  Perfect for
those hardpack tent spots.  Darrel A12




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Darrel & Deanna" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Fw: Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:32:55 -0800


-----Original Message-----

>From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
><snip>
>3) better stakes...the ground was packed gravel/rock and the stakes simply
>didn't
>work...suggestions?
>
>Kurt- I use a really sturdy and sharp stake from Texsport
>http://www.texsport.com
>They're a galvanized nail that's 10" X 5/16" with a plastic dodad that
>slides onto it with a hook and a hole for attaching your lines.  Perfect
for
>those hardpack tent spots.  Darrel A12


The item# of the stake I described is 14196.  Happy Camping, Darrel


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:40:41 -0800


> For stakes I carry 5 of the zinc coated railroad spikes (damn near!) and 4
> of the minimalist pegs
-------
Kurt- I use a really sturdy and sharp stake from Texsport
http://www.texsport.com
They're a galvanized nail that's 10" X 5/16" with a plastic dodad that
slides onto it with a hook and a hole for attaching your lines.
-------
I think these are the spikes I'm talking about. My only complaint is the
plastic dodad (green) tends to break over time and use. They are a
convenience but not a necessity.

rik


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR "Tricks of the Trade"
Date: 28 Mar 1999 12:39:00 EST

In a message dated 3/28/99 9:54:58 AM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< 12) change your fork oil and experiment with different weights...change the
height of
 the spacer above the spring...

 14) add the wrench you need for the front axle nut to your tool kit...

 That is a start.....

 Kurt >>
Thanks Kurt,  this is a good list of econo mods. I didn't know the tool kit
didn't have a fron axle wrench? frank

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: FW: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 09:49:22 -0800





>How do the locals anchor their tents in Moab? The last time I was at Slick
>Rock I woke with my tent collapsed around me and was chased by a HUGE
>centipede. What the hell is up with those things???
>
>Rik
>
> So what works best for me is just a ground cloth to lay on and
if the wind does come up then you just pull it over you and you are pretty
much protected.

Those creepy crawly thingies like dark places to hide so just look out for
them.

Fred

---
I've slept under the stars plenty of times... but never more in Utah. That
centipede wasn't just creeps and crawls. It was mean, ugly, and damn near
the fastest thing on a 1000 legs I've ever seen! Is it true they are
poisonous? Or have I no excuse for my phobia?
(for you listers heading to Moab this year, I know for a fact that if you
have a couple beers before bedtime they won't even come near your camp!)

-rik


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 10:57:22 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>
>
>
>
>>How do the locals anchor their tents in Moab? The last time I was at Slick
>>Rock I woke with my tent collapsed around me and was chased by a HUGE
>>centipede. What the hell is up with those things???
>>
>>Rik
>>
>> So what works best for me is just a ground cloth to lay on and
>if the wind does come up then you just pull it over you and you are pretty
>much protected.
>
>Those creepy crawly thingies like dark places to hide so just look out for
>them.
>
>Fred
>
>---
>I've slept under the stars plenty of times... but never more in Utah. That
>centipede wasn't just creeps and crawls. It was mean, ugly, and damn near
>the fastest thing on a 1000 legs I've ever seen! Is it true they are
>poisonous? Or have I no excuse for my phobia?
>(for you listers heading to Moab this year, I know for a fact that if you
>have a couple beers before bedtime they won't even come near your camp!)
>
>-rik
>

Maybe so,  but Kurt and Vik won't be too far away.

I'd be more concerned about the midnight mountain bikers and the yahoo
jeepers.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Aerostich online ordering...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 11:14:39 -0700

I just ordered an Aerostitch electric vest after reading its top-rated review in
MCN...Aerostich now has both an on-line catalog and ordering:

https://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.store

Check out the new yellow Dariens...

Kurt (poster boy returns)


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Aerostich online ordering...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 14:19:52 -0500

Hey Kurt, how did you do it? I tried in vain to order the same vest last
night, and never prompted for payment or verification of order. What am I
missing? I logged on, set a password, the whole deal.
Many thanks, NY Pete



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 14:53:11 -0500


-----Original Message-----


>    I am a new subscriber to this list. I can see that it offers  a lot of
>great information as well as "opinions" on a number of subjects

>Since I live in Northern
>Virginia, and speeds on the Capitol Beltway exceed 70 mph, I bought a KLR.

Aint nothin this side of an armored truck safe enough for the capital
beltway!
BG


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Balancer bolt seal
Date: 28 Mar 1999 15:08:49 EST

Mister T and Fred
Thanks for the advice, changed o ring on balancer bolt, old oring had been
flattened due to overtightening, remember snug.  Found a SeaDoo bag that has a
grommet at bottom that attaches nicely on the tool box bolt $8 at the dealer.
Dealer has a 99 Tiger that was purchased and returned within 5 days and 300
miles, wonder why.
A Englishman is passing thru the area on a Royal Enfield 500 single early 60's
model, he was coming from Argentina heading towards Alaska.  Talk about Dual
Sporting.

Thanks
Larry

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Michael Durham <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New to the List...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 15:53:59 -0500

kurt,

Could you elaborate on this statement a little?
>>Good to hear you're having excellent experience with your
dealer...soon they will face the
first test...the 500 mile check-up which most dealers have failed...<<

The main reason I'm gonna buy a new bike is for the comfort of a one
year warranty and this 500 mile tune up. Is there anyhting I can do to
make sure I don't get shafted when I bring my future bike into the shop?

                        Thanks- Mike


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Aerostich online ordering...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 15:44:38 -0500

I cannot get to this site ever.  I have contacted aerostich and my two isp's about
this problem.  I would like for some of you to try to get to this site when you see
this mail.  Please respond to me (not the whole list) (sender only, not sender and
all recipients) with your results.  I would like to get to the bottom of this
problem.
Thanks, -Tim

Here are some links to try. Please try all three

https://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.store
http://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.store
http://www.aerostich.com



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New to the List...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 15:59:46 -0500

Mike wrote,

> ... Is there anyhting I can do to
> make sure I don't get shafted when I bring my future bike into the shop?....

Mike, the 500 mile tune up checks a number of things.  The one that the dealer
is least likely to check is the valve clearances because this involves taking
the valve covers off of your bike and means some real labor time is involved.
Some dealers will charge you for this check and not do it just to make easy
money.

The best thing to do is to arrange to be there when your dealer does the
check.  (Arrange this before the sale)  That way, you will learn some important
things about your bike and be sure of what has been done.

If you can't be there, here is what you can do to be sure that the dealer at
least thought about taking your valve covers off.  Let a little bit of mud
(play dough works great) dry around each of the valve cover bolt heads.
Putting a wrench on the bolts will break the mud off.  If you get the bike back
and the mud is still there, Well,
"welcome to having work done 101"

As for the comfort of owning a new bike, I bought a 93 with 13000 miles for
$2000. I figured, "I can do a lot of work to the bike for the $2800 it would
cost extra to get a new one".  New or Old, You will probably enjoy your KLR a
great deal. -Tim


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) front sproket HELP ADVICE
Date: 28 Mar 1999 16:41:32 EST

I have decided that my 1990 Tengai will seldom do much real off road work.
Sure, I may run some gravel trails and maybe some sand, but for the most part,
this bike will do over 95% of it's miles on the paved road.  I want to drop
the rpms at cruising speeds and have decided that the best way to do so would
be to go to a larger front sproket.

I need the input and advice of those of you who know about such things.

1.  If I go up one tooth, what will the rpm drop be in top gear?

2.  How many teeth can I go up on the front sproket?

3.  What kind of acceleration will I give up if I go up one tooth?

4.  How long does it take to change the front sproket and is it necessary to
put on a new chain -- mine is relatively new.

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Viik's Luggage
Date: 28 Mar 1999 16:50:40 -0500

Hey Vik,

Just checked out your luggage pics. Looks pretty interesting. Look's a little
like a Zamboni from the back.

Must be a Canadian thing, eh?  ;-)

Matt Duftler
Tarrytown, NY
A9



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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New to the List...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 15:04:41 -0700


>> ... Is there anyhting I can do to
>> make sure I don't get shafted when I bring my future bike into the shop?....


What Tim said...Mike...many many many listers have reported dissatisfaction with the
500 mile check...be up front with the dealer and tell him you belong to a list with
over 350 KLR owners and many have reported that they are charged for a valve
check/adjustment and it isn't done. If they say "they never need adjusting that soon"
say not true...many of the same listers have had the experience....Tell them you want
the valves adjusted to loose specs and you intend to keep them that way during the
duration of the first 6,000 miles...so specify .006-.008 intake and .008-.010
exhausts...tell them you want them to adjust the valves to those clearances...

Kurt


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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) front sproket HELP ADVICE
Date: 28 Mar 1999 15:12:31 -0700

>1.  If I go up one tooth, what will the rpm drop be in top gear?

>2.  How many teeth can I go up on the front sproket?
>3.  What kind of acceleration will I give up if I go up one tooth?
>4.  How long does it take to change the front sproket and is it necessary to
>put on a new chain -- mine is relatively new.


There is room for only 1 tooth...changing the sprocket is a snap...I had to take the
axle out of my rear tire to get enough room to get the chain on...others have been
able to wiggle it on without doing that.

I did mine after some carb/exhaust mods and I doubt if I've given up much over
stock...On a stock bike I can't tell you...some would say you lose some of the
spritz...I think you end up with a much more tractable and smooth bike on the
street...you just have to pay a little more attention to the gear you are in.

           Here is some data for you (thanks to
            lister Pat Hensley's excellent GearCalc Program):
            _____________________


            Stock: 15X43 (measured tire circumference 76.5 inches):

            Primary Reduction ratio= 2.27273

            1st  = 2.2667
            2nd  = 1.52941
            3rd  = 1.18182
            4th = 0.95455
            5th = 0.79167

            4200 RPM computes to 59.9 MPH
            80 MPH computes to 5696 RPM
            ___________________________

            My setup with Taller gearing 16 X 43 (same circumference 76.5 inches):

            Final Reduction ratio= 2.6875

            4200 RPM computes to 62.9
            80 MPH computes to 5340
            ______________________________

            Jake Jakeman's setup even Taller gearing 15 X 39:

            Final reduction ratio = 2.600000

            4200 RPM computes to 65.0
            80 MPH computes to 5166 RPM

            Kurt A12






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From: "Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) 99klr650 riding impression
Date: 28 Mar 1999 23:06:14 -0000


The pic of the cockpit layout (this is what my 87 looks like so I assume,
based on the comment that the temperature gauge is an added bonus, that
earlier models over there didn't have one, or the reviewer hasn't ridden
too many KLR's) anyway, back to the pic of the cockpit, there is this nice
little screen at the top of the fairing, is this standard?  Mine has got
some home made thing screwed there (about 60mm high - looks suspiciously
like the top portion of a cut down tinted visor but thicker).  I don't
know if maybe there was an original that was broken and removed by the
previous owner or not, but I asked my local Kawa dealer if they came out
with one and, after he consulted his computer for the parts lists, was
advised "no".

I know this one isn't very big but it is exactly what I am looking for.  I
did look up the Rifle and Clearview reviews but they are not really what I
am after (good reviews though!).

Any comments?  Effectiveness (for short trips)? etc.

Regards,


Greig,
RIDE AND BE SEEN



-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 4:02 PM


Check out  www.motorcycle.com for great photos and  article about our
beloved
moto...
Guy Le Baher
SF

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From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Another battery option
Date: 28 Mar 1999 15:42:14 -0800 (PST)

Fellow listers-

Was just browsing through the March issue of
American Motorcyclist and on page 21 they have the
following blurb about Batteries Plus:

"The terms 'maintenance-free' and 'two-year free
replacement warranty' don't often apply to
motorcycle batteries.  They do, however, apply to
the new Xtreme line, offered by Batteries Plus, a
national retail and commercial chain.

Suitable for a wide variety of bikes, Xtreme
batteries offer triple the starting power of
same-sized regular batteries, the company says.
Batteries Plus also says they accept a faster rate
of charge, don't have to be charged every six to
12 weeks and will maintain up to half their charge
after two years if stored at room temperature-
longer at low temps.  To locate the nearest Xtreme
battery dealer, call 1-800-677-8278."

Sounds promising, if everything the company claims
is true...  I don't know if they offer anything
for the KLR-- could someone who's in the market
let us know about that?  By the way, I have no
interest in Batteries Plus, and the Power Max
MX-free I ordered from Dennis Kirk. a couple
months back didn't work out (it wouldn't charge
beyond 9 volts).  Fortunately my
emergency-purchase Yuasa has worked out fine.  For
what it's worth...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


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From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re:
Date: 28 Mar 1999 16:09:27 -0800



Marick Payton wrote:

> Jeeze, Chris, you are planning to ride a 900 mile (my map says
> more like 1,000) day to get to Moab?  Longest I've put in on
> my KLX is 615, and I thought that was a pretty good day.
>

Yeah, well, I'm probably nuts.  How far have other KLRistas going in one day?

> I'd be us for a day of dual sporting, either next Sunday (Easter)
> or the one following.  You think Easter will be more or less
> crowded?  Once we pick a day and place, let's post a notice on
> the KLR group to see if any other Bay Area folks want to join.

Ok, sounds good.  I think Easter will be fine.  Wanna go to Carnegie?  It's
theclosest place to the east bay I think.

>
>
> Marick


Chris



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From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Spidi Trans NT Jacket
Date: 28 Mar 1999 17:36:03 -0700

.....................>
snip<........................................................
>   As far as quality and features, I`d put it against any jacket made,
>including the Darien I borrowed. Spidi is mainly known in the USA because
of
>all the racers that use their leathers. Well, the quality of their leathers
>is also in the fabric jackets............> snip<..................

>Skip ( who`s going to be color co-ordinated with his bike
>            Kurt, Ron



In the post on the Spidi Trans NT, I needed to mention that in fairness to
my old Kilimanjaro, even though the ventilation on the Spidi appears more
than adequate, I believe that in really hot climes, where one would be in a
lot of slower moving traffic, the Kilimanjaro will probably ventilate
better. I don`t need that much where I am. Also, even though Spidi has a two
year warranty and I`ve heard that they will go out of their way for you, I
find it hard to believe that any company could treat a customer better than
Aerostich.

Skip ( who if nothing else, tries to be fair )


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From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Help on Riding Pants
Date: 28 Mar 1999 17:52:46 -0700

List,
  With all the varied experience and use of every imaginable thing that can
be used in conjunction with a motorcycle, I could use some advice in
deciding on riding pants for my wife and possibly me. My present ones are
waterproof snowboard pants that I placed knee and hip armor in and have
worked great, but they`re a little warm.
    What we are looking for is a waterproof pant, removeable liner,
preferably a full length zipper, with knee and hip armor.
 Price range is around $159. I`ve found several possibilities in catalogs,
but I don`t like buying without checking them out or someone`s
recommendation.
   I`d sure appreciate help if any of you have experience with pants that
fit the above description.

      p.s. Must also be available in Royal blue with yellow flames

( NOT)

 Skip




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From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Oil Again
Date: 28 Mar 1999 18:27:11 -0700



>Here is an interesting link to a couple more articles about oil in general,
>and motorcycle specific oil. The first article covers some of the (very)
>basics for those of us, myself included, who need a refresher.
>http://tempest.ece.uiuc.edu/~cburian/mc/oil/
>
>Maybe Skip can do a quick QC so as to ensure the basics are at least
>accurate! (its sooo nice to have an expert on tap!)
>
>---rik rapidly approaching 1K on the lucky 13.



Rik,
   Not an expert, just a student. Yes, I`ve read these before, but it was
several years ago. Many of these articles are 8 and 9 years old. If you read
the one " More than you wanted to know about oil" you will see the reference
at the bottom of the oil chart that says the above oils are all SG
compliant, that was in 1991.
Much has changed since then. Like some of the statements made about the
multi-grade polymers shearing under high stress and temps, especially when
the viscosity is to low, well the newer oils have shorter chains even when
hot and in a normal engine, this is not a factor.
   There is a lot of pertinent info though. Just keep in mind that any
comparisons of oil are now outdated.

Skip


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Blurry Mirrors on my KLR650, and other first-time questions
Date: 28 Mar 1999 20:46:18 EST

Dear KLR 650 Enthusiasts:

I put the first 70 miles on my new KLR650 today.  Great ride considering it is
March and I live in Columbus, Ohio.

This email is an appeal for general info, particularly since the dealer did
not provide an owner's manual.

1.  Vibration in the seat, pegs, and handlebars (for hands) was not bad at
all, but the mirrors reported two or three of everything behind me.  Any
suggested fixes for mirror vibration?

2.  The seat seemed to throw me forward.  (I'm 6'-0" and 215 pounds, if that
matters.)
Anybody else observed the same sensation?  Any fixes?

3.  The front brake is mushy.  Is that normal?  Any fixes.

4.  And just what is the right oil level, as seen through the window into the
crankcase?

5.   Is there a tank bag for this bike?   Or some kind of small bag that fits
on the tray on the back?

6.  Tires: I put Metzlers on mine cause my riding is 80% street 20% fun-shit
roads in the country.  Any tire advice?

7.  Any other useful add-ons?

I already ordered a Dual-Star center stand.  Why in the world would Kawasaki
sell a chain drive bike with no center stand.  I don't get it.

Thanks to all who respond. I can tell this is gonna be a fun ride once I sort
out the
idiosyncrasies.

Harry






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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Help on Riding Pants
Date: 28 Mar 1999 18:51:18 -0700


-----Original Message-----



>   I`d sure appreciate help if any of you have experience with pants that
>fit the above description.
>
>      p.s. Must also be available in Royal blue with yellow flames
>
>( NOT)
>
> Skip
>
>

Hi Skip,

Sounds like you are looking for the FirstGear Hypertex overpants.
Waterproof, full length 2 way zipper, armor in the knees and hips.  No Blue
and Flames though, sorry.  How about some with pink pokka dots?  Black is
$184.95 with 1 year warranty.

How about some MSR ISDE Gore-tex pants.  Blue or Black are $214.95  I wear
these and really like them except for trail riding in Moab in the summer
they are a little on the hot side.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) First-time questions
Date: 28 Mar 1999 18:05:41 -0800 (PST)

> This email is an appeal for general info,
> particularly since the dealer did
> not provide an owner's manual.

Harry,

First of all, find another dealer to do business
with, secondly, welcome to the cult, and thirdly,
ALL your questions will be readily answered by
going to http://www.dualsport.org and clicking on
the KLR650 logo.  From there you will be able to
access the awesome search engine that Kurt Simpson
put together.  Any other questions you may have
CAN and WILL be readily answered by this list-- it
truly is an amazing resource.  I really think that
a person could get away with never having to have
anymore work done by a shop, provided they had the
time and the desire to do it themselves.  All the
expertise and experience one could ever want is
right here.  Good luck and welcome aboard!

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"

P.S.  I switched to a pair of Honda XR650L
mirrors, it's helped immensely.
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) (no subject)
Date: 28 Mar 1999 21:17:43 EST

Pricing and getting a deal on a KLR650:

What can I expect to get from a dealer in terms of discounting, decrease in
'set-up' fee, or other discsounting on accessories, etc., as I purchase a 1999
KLR650?

I often buy musical equipment, and I expect anywhere from a 10 - 50% discount
on a retail price in that business. But, I expect that the market in
motorcycles is different; so, how do you really know when you're getting a
'good deal' from a dealer? I've purchased used bikes from owners and dealers
in the past, but never a new bike... ain't too savvy to the ways of the world
in this regard...

Would some of you out there please take a minute to enlighten me?

Thanks,

Alex

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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Oil Again
Date: 28 Mar 1999 19:38:59 -0700


|   There is a lot of pertinent info though. Just keep in mind that any
|comparisons of oil are now outdated.
|
|Skip


Skip, what are you and Mollye using? BTW, I checked my Rotella and unless I'm reading it wrong
it is SJ/SH also...

Kurt


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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First-time questions
Date: 28 Mar 1999 19:44:12 -0700

What Juan said...
|
|P.S.  I switched to a pair of Honda XR650L
|mirrors, it's helped immensely.


Skip has reported that they didn't work on his bike...but on mine they've been a great
improvement as well...they have rubber damping (right Fred, not dampening...I'm a quick
study)..Fred can get them for you easy and fast...

Kurt

Front brakes suck...a 2 step solution...progressive front springs to get rid of  "the dive" and
ss brakelines...




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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (no subject)
Date: 28 Mar 1999 19:50:09 -0700


-----Original Message-----


|Pricing and getting a deal on a KLR650:
|
|What can I expect to get from a dealer in terms of discounting, decrease in
|'set-up' fee, or other discsounting on accessories, etc., as I purchase a 1999
|KLR650?

Alex, throw the music experience away...this is a very different deal...mark-ups much
smaller...go to this url and pay $10 and you can find out what the dealer pays including
Freight and setup..

http://www.cyclebytel.com

Here is what you'll find...some dealers will deal some won't the only way you can tell is by
making an offer...most dealers only get a couple KLR's and have no trouble selling them...they
get pretty scarce by June. There is a dealer in Northern Utah that has a '98 and is still
asking $4,600 and won't deal...

Kurt A12





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From: Mark <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (no subject)
Date: 28 Mar 1999 22:08:41 -0500

>Here is what you'll find...some dealers will deal some won't the only way
>you can tell is by
>making an offer...most dealers only get a couple KLR's and have no trouble
>selling them...they
>get pretty scarce by June. There is a dealer in Northern Utah that has a
>'98 and is still
>asking $4,600 and won't deal...
>
>Kurt A12

As I was passing through WV last Thursday, I stopped to browse at
Ridersville Cycle in Berkeley Springs (304-258-1449).
They have a KLR650A13 in stock for $4150!!
No need to haggle there!
Mark
B2
A2



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From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (no subject)
Date: 28 Mar 1999 20:07:15 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Sunday, March 28, 1999 7:20 PM
>Subject: (klr650) (no subject)
>
>
>|Pricing and getting a deal on a KLR650:
>|
>|What can I expect to get from a dealer in terms of discounting, decrease
in
>|'set-up' fee, or other discsounting on accessories, etc., as I purchase a
1999
>|KLR650?
>
>Alex, throw the music experience away...this is a very different
deal...mark-ups much
>smaller...go to this url and pay $10 and you can find out what the dealer
pays including
>Freight and setup..
>
>http://www.cyclebytel.com

Here's another one.. http://www.cyclebynet.com/

Fred


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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (no subject)
Date: 28 Mar 1999 20:16:48 -0700


|As I was passing through WV last Thursday, I stopped to browse at
|Ridersville Cycle in Berkeley Springs (304-258-1449).
|They have a KLR650A13 in stock for $4150!!


sounds great as long as the out the door price doesn't get inflated...I responded to an
internet ad for Salinas Kawasaki..for a '98 DR350 SE at $1,500 list..so true enough they
started out at $3,300 and began adding fees, mark-up etc. and got it to $4,295...I was
pissed...

Kurt


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 22:50:34 EST

In a message dated 3/28/99 10:53:50 AM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< >I've slept under the stars plenty of times... but never more in Utah. That
 >centipede wasn't just creeps and crawls. >>

For as ugly and mean looking as centipedes are, their bite is not much worse
than a wasp sting although some people are very allergic to them, just like
bee stings.

Gino

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 22:46:40 EST

In a message dated 3/28/99 10:27:22 AM Mountain Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< They're a galvanized nail that's 10" X 5/16" with a plastic dodad that
 slides onto it with a hook and a hole for attaching your lines.  Perfect for
 those hardpack tent spots.  Darrel A12 >>

Yep, I use those too.  They are stout, but heavy.  I also use Coleman Peak One
Dual Fuel Lantern and stove.  Should always have close to 6 gallons of fuel
handy.

Gino

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From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR, but Kawasaki...
Date: 28 Mar 1999 22:03:35 -0600

Hi, all.  I've just aquired a '79 650 Kawasaki 4 cyl, which I believe to
be an "SR".  Anyone have a manual (owner's or shop) for such an animal?

It has only 10,000 km on it and appears to be in nice shape.  Well, the
tires are bad, the battery is gone, the chain is sloppy, and the teeth
on the rear sprocket are pointy...but it LOOKS nice...so I'm hoping it
is a good foundation from which to build...

Oh ya, it hasn't been running in about 4 years, so the carbs need doing,
I'm sure, and the inside of the tank don't look good...

Any tips?  Anyone aware of a 'Kaw 650 multi' site?  ...I'm gonna need
some help with this one...but it should be a fun 'project bike'.

phil in Sask

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) PFS
Date: 28 Mar 1999 20:08:29 PST

Skip,

Under what brands can your everyday backyard motorcycle mechanic
find a Polymetric Flange Sealant and where?  I've long favored
3-Bond for sealing things up but am always looking for better
stuff.

Marick

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From: "Paul Yelk" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR650 Wobble
Date: 28 Mar 1999 20:10:39 -0800

Way back in January, I posted to the list a problem with a very unnerving wobble to my '98 KLR650. Thanks to all of you who responded. Unfortunately due to accepting some contract work plus moving, I was unable to respond.  Since today was the first weekend this month we've had no rain I decidec to go for a ride. Thanks to all who responded, I did check the tire pressure. Sure enough, the front tire would not register on my pressure gauge (although by sitting on it it didn't feel as though it needed air), the back tire had only 20 PSI! My first stop was the gas station to fill both up to 22 PSI (according to the manual 21 PSOI should be correct - just wanted that 1 pound extra margin). Took the bike out the same route as I did when I had the wobble. Although I could feel a very small wobble, it wasn't bad enough to cause me great concern (there was a lot of traffic including a couple 18-wheelers). Seems as though the low tire pressure caused the extreme wobble. I'll be watching for the next few rides to ensure I don't have a problem with either tire slowly leaking air.

Thanks again to all you listers who responded to my original problem.

Paul Yelk
Montgomery AL
'98 KLR650




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From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Lots of miles in one day on KLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 23:15:03 -0500

The trouble is that if you do HIGH mileage days on your bike to get to Moab, you
might be too beat to enjoy being there.  Something to consider.  Also, I am going
to try to go (from Florida).  If I go I will be driving a four seater suv and
pulling a trailer.  If any of you are kind of in my path and might want to hitch
on, let me know.

> > Jeeze, Chris, you are planning to ride a 900 mile (my map says
> > more like 1,000) day to get to Moab?


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From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 Wobble
Date: 28 Mar 1999 21:26:57 -0700


-----Original Message-----


My first stop was the gas station to fill both up to 22 PSI (according to
the manual 21 PSOI should be correct - just wanted that 1 pound extra
margin).

Tire air pressure and valve clearance on most vehicles are measured when
they are cold.  Meaning not starting the engine or driving more than about a
block.  Heat causes most things to expand.  Driving to the gas station
causes the tires to flex enough to cause heat to build up inside the tires
and thus raise the tire air pressure.  This will give you an inaccurate
reading.  Better to check the pressure before you ride anywhere.  Tires will
normally loose a small amount of air setting around and since a motorcycle
tire is small to begin with it doesn't take long before it is too low.

Fred


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From: "cosmo bojinski" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) first-time questions
Date: 28 Mar 1999 20:26:14 PST

welcome Harry, congrats on the new ride. You mentioned that it felt like
the seat was throwing you forward. You may want to check the level of
the fork tubes in the triple clamp, I seem to recall some discussion a
while back where some dealers were cheating on this set-up in an effort
to make the beast less imposing when you first (try to) throw your leg
over it.This combo'd with the spongy front springs could contribute to
the forward launch sensation. search the archives, you will be
amazed....cosmo
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From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Lots of miles in one day on KLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 21:32:40 -0700


-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


Also, I am going
>to try to go (from Florida).  If I go I will be driving a four seater suv
and
>pulling a trailer.  If any of you are kind of in my path and might want to
hitch
>on, let me know.


Good for you!!  We need more folks like you.  Put a note on the message
board on the Moab Get-Together page so you can get hooked up with someone
that needs a lift.
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page54.html

I also have a good web page with information about Moab you can check out
at:
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/page10.html

Fred   T-minus 67days and counting!


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) getting a deal on a KLR650 -NKLR?
Date: 29 Mar 1999 00:18:04 EST

Alex writes:
>how do you really know when you're getting a 'good deal' from a dealer?
>Would some of you out there please take a minute to enlighten me?

 Glad you asked...
If you truly want the best deal Alex, you must go to your dark
side, fight fire with fire, beat them at their own game. Drop any
altruistic ideals about the dealer needing to make a fair profit
in order to be around to sell you parts and service your ride.

Don't view them as human beings, but rather as the scum sucking
bottom feeders that they are. It's best to be prepared before you
are confronted with the pressure techniques that the dealer will
surely try to perpetrate upon you. So let's do a little dry run.

Upon entering the showroom you are greeted by the salesman...

Dealer:  Hello. May I help you Sir?

Alex:  Back off!!! You don't fool me for a minute smiley boy.
          I know all about you and your tricks. You're not going
          to rip me off like the rest of your clients. I want that
          bike in the corner that's collecting dust. The one you
          call a KLR. You know, the one with the weak front
          suspension and brake, that needs to be put on a diet
          and wobbles like a weeble. Write it up at your cost
          and you eat the sales tax. And there'd BETTER be a
          full tank of gas in it when I come back to pick it up.

Dealer:   Of course Sir. We'll have it ready for you in an hour.

So you see Alex the key is to be prepared. Don't hesitate to
ask for any other tips or tricks. There is an abundance of
help for the taking here.

John O.  A10 - back on the air



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Conall O'Brien)
Subject: (klr650) Re:KLR Prices
Date: 28 Mar 1999 21:30:19 -0800 (PST)

Diablo Kawasaki-BMW in Walnut Creek CA has a '99 KLR  for $4185, or
$4850 out the door. $4800 out the door is a good deal, about $550
discount.
Low mileage used KLR is the way to go though.

Conall


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) getting a deal on a KLR650 -NKLR?
Date: 28 Mar 1999 22:38:21 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Alex writes:
>>how do you really know when you're getting a 'good deal' from a dealer?
>>Would some of you out there please take a minute to enlighten me?
>
> Glad you asked...
>If you truly want the best deal Alex, you must go to your dark
>side, fight fire with fire, beat them at their own game. Drop any
>altruistic ideals about the dealer needing to make a fair profit
>in order to be around to sell you parts and service your ride.
>
>Don't view them as human beings, but rather as the scum sucking
>bottom feeders that they are. It's best to be prepared before you
>are confronted with the pressure techniques that the dealer will
>surely try to perpetrate upon you. So let's do a little dry run.
>
>Upon entering the showroom you are greeted by the salesman...
>
>Dealer:  Hello. May I help you Sir?
>
>Alex:  Back off!!! You don't fool me for a minute smiley boy.
>          I know all about you and your tricks. You're not going
>          to rip me off like the rest of your clients. I want that
>          bike in the corner that's collecting dust. The one you
>          call a KLR. You know, the one with the weak front
>          suspension and brake, that needs to be put on a diet
>          and wobbles like a weeble. Write it up at your cost
>          and you eat the sales tax. And there'd BETTER be a
>          full tank of gas in it when I come back to pick it up.
>
>Dealer:   Of course Sir. We'll have it ready for you in an hour.
>
>So you see Alex the key is to be prepared. Don't hesitate to
>ask for any other tips or tricks. There is an abundance of
>help for the taking here.
>
>John O.  A10 - back on the air



John,  If you need a job as my parts buyer,  YOU'RE HIRED!!  Just be
prepared to get laughed at from time to time.  ;<)

Fred


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Oil Again
Date: 28 Mar 1999 22:52:04 -0700

>Skip, what are you and Mollye using? BTW, I checked my Rotella and unless
I'm reading it wrong
>it is SJ/SH also...
>
>Kurt
>

Kurt,
  I am currently using the older auto Mobil One. I`m waiting on a new oil
analysis to see if the new auto Mobil One has over
.10% ppm zinc. If it does I`ll stay with it.  Mollye`s bike won`t be in till
next week.  At her first oil change, she`ll probably be using Mobil`s Delvac
1300 Super  10W30. That`s not for sure till I get some info back from my
Mobil rep Tuesday.
   Check the API donut on the back of your Rotella and make sure the donut
says SH/SJ. If the donut is not there but it says SH/SJ  " compliant", then
it is SJ but with more than .10% zinc,
which prevented it from receiving the API donut. Shell is producing non-SJ
multi-grade oil, but I`m not sure how available it is.
    After I hear from Mobil, I`ll be posting some " Oil Facts" from some oil
companies and motorcycle companies that I`ve talked to over the last couple
of weeks. It will be short and "Their" facts
only, and then individuals can choose how they want to use the information.

Skip


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 22:07:24 -0800


-----Original Message-----



>3) better stakes...the ground was packed gravel/rock and the stakes simply
didn't
>work...suggestions?


I've always found that a real heavy galvanized spike (8" or so), the kind
that you get at the lumber-yard works great.

Arne


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 28 Mar 1999 22:12:37 -0800


-----Original Message-----


> It was mean, ugly, and damn near
>the fastest thing on a 1000 legs I've ever seen! Is it true they are
>poisonous? Or have I no excuse for my phobia?


I remember watching a "Magnum P.I." episode many moons ago where he was out
and about and got bit by an apparently poisoness centipede.  He went into
dillusions, and sang a convincing rendition of, "Look at me, I'm as helpless
as a kitten up a tree..."

Arne - who prefers two, long, shapely legs


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First-time questions
Date: 28 Mar 1999 22:23:44 -0800

>P.S.  I switched to a pair of Honda XR650L
>mirrors, it's helped immensely.


Hi Juan, Arne here.  I have a new bike and the same problem also.  How is it
that the Honda mirrors help?  Are they heavier?  And were you able to mount
them in the KLR mounts or did you have to switch the whole schebang.

Thanks,

Arne


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom McKenzie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) prices
Date: 28 Mar 1999 23:47:13 -0800

Alex Wrote
[e-mail]

Pricing and getting a deal on a KLR650:

What can I expect to get from a dealer in terms of discounting, decrease
in
'set-up' fee, or other discounting on accessories, etc., as I purchase a
1999
KLR650?

I often buy musical equipment, and I expect anywhere from a 10 - 50%
discount
on a retail price in that business. But, I expect that the market in
motorcycles is different; so, how do you really know when you're getting
a
'good deal' from a dealer? I've purchased used bikes from owners and
dealers
in the past, but never a new bike... ain't too savvy to the ways of the
world
in this regard...

Would some of you out there please take a minute to enlighten me?

Alex in Canada the dealer makes about 16% on the bike at full retail. He
does have to pay freight and he does have to pay  staff to assemble and
service the bike. I could have purchased my bike from a discounter, he
said 10% right off the bat. But!!!! No valve shims in stock, he also
told me there was no way to adjust the balancer chain from the outside
and was not sure if he stocked oil filters but would give me one before
I left, if I bought a bike. He did not get a sale.

I purchased my bike from SG Power Products. I paid full retail. They
voluntarily included a 2 year extended unlimited mileage warranty  no
charge, bringing my warranty to a full 3 years.   My bikes travel at
least  35 K every year, so I have a hunch the warranty might be of some
value, but if not that's OK.  Not only did the dealer not bitch when I
went to buy filter and shims for the 1st service that I was performing
myself,  he gave me free valve shims. And the valve shims were new, not
exchange.

I was going to buy an F650. For that I would want a discount. It is
extremely over priced to start with. But I bought the better bike, and I
do not think that paying "full pop" is wrong if you want good service
from a profitable dealer. I have been riding for 37 years, and I have
watched countless numbers of dealers come and go. But the dealers that
charge a fair price and get it, stay around. They also take care of
their customers. Maybe not on a one on one basis like the guy that only
has 4 customers, but they have the parts, and the service is usually
something better than Labatt's monkeys doing the wrenching.

Support your local dealer when you can, and for everything else Fred
Hink can't be beat.

Tom McKenzie
[e-mail]

Tom McKenzie
[e-mail]
telephone [phone]
fax            [phone]



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Todd Kuss" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) valve clearance check
Date: 29 Mar 1999 05:51:35 -0600

Greetings, I bought my 95 w/ 800 miles on it.   A couple of months later I
Called the dealer who sold it to me and inquired about the check.  He said
that it was never done because it had so few miles on it and that they
normally don't really need it until 5 - 6k miles. or unless you hear the
"ticking".    One hot day last year I thought I could hear a little more
noise than normal, so this spring (2400 mi) I took the bike to a different
dealer and all I asked for was for them to check the valve clearances.
This was more of a small town shop.  I talked to the mechanic afterwards and
he said he changed shims on three of the four,   one was too loose and two
were too tight.   He did say that they were not  too far out,  I didn't get
anymore of the details.   Anyway,  I was very satisfied with the local shop,
but thought I would share what the first dealer told me.   They were one of
those "120 bikes on the showroom type dealer",    my local shop is lucky to
have 20 bikes on the floor,    Todd Kuss
Chaska Mn




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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) prices...NKLR
Date: 29 Mar 1999 05:51:42 -0700

>has 4 customers, but they have the parts, and the service is usually
>something better than Labatt's monkeys doing the wrenching.


did someone say Labatt's? geez...I must have been sleeping but I'm awake now (g)

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First-time questions
Date: 29 Mar 1999 05:53:16 -0700

>Hi Juan, Arne here.  I have a new bike and the same problem also.  How is it
>that the Honda mirrors help?  Are they heavier?  And were you able to mount
>them in the KLR mounts or did you have to switch the whole schebang.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Arne


you have to be the whole enchilada...the diameter of the stocks are different..they
work because they include a rubber damper....they also get the mirrors out behind your
shoulders so you get a better field of view...

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Leather Gloves...
Date: 29 Mar 1999 05:59:56 -0700

I've found a great low price alternative to Aerostitch Elkskin Ropers ($36 US)....They
are Yellowstone Seamless Palm, Seamless Back Elkskin Gloves style 549-E (Yellowstone
Leather Products, Inc., Idaho Falls, Idaho  83402). They are thicker, have a longer
gauntlet and wear really well. I bought my first pair last year and they are still in
great shape...picked up another pair yesterday...Local price $18.95.

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Honda Mirrors
Date: 29 Mar 1999 05:38:31 -0800 (PST)

I'm not too clear on what Kurt was describing but
the Honda mirrors I bought screwed right into the
stock Kawasaki mounts (if that's what you're
asking).  So as far as I know, the mounts don't
need replacing.  I use them a lot more now that I
don't see everything in triplicate...  Good
luck...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"


> >them in the KLR mounts or did you have to
> switch the whole schebang.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Arne
>
>
> you have to be the whole enchilada...the
> diameter of the stocks are different..they
> work because they include a rubber
> damper....they also get the mirrors out behind
> your
> shoulders so you get a better field of view...
>
> Kurt
>
>

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Honda Mirrors
Date: 29 Mar 1999 06:59:12 -0700


-----Original Message-----


|I'm not too clear on what Kurt was describing but
|the Honda mirrors I bought screwed right into the
|stock Kawasaki mounts (if that's what you're
|asking

we're probably talking about different things...yes, the stock clutch and brake perches work
fine to accept the Honda mirrors...no, you can't just buy the Honda shock mount that screws
into the perch and then put your Kawasaki mirrors into the shock mount...you have to buy both
the shock mount and the mirrors...

Sorry for any confusion....

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bixby, Jeff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) New Bike Service
Date: 29 Mar 1999 09:06:50 -0600

Picked up my A13 on Friday, $5000 out the door from a very reputable dealer.
Due to weather conditions and S.O. rankings (I appeared to have forgotten to
inform her about my intentions!) I only put 200 miles on it this weekend. So
far so good.....

My salesman recommended that I change the oil at 500 miles and wait for the
initial service until 1000 miles. What are your thoughts on this?

Should I check valve clearances at 500 miles to be safe? Are the valve cover
gaskets reusable?

Also, I plan on doing the initial service myself with photo/video
documentation as proof it was done correctly.

Does anyone have the list of specific things to be checked/adjusted as per
factory recommendations for the initial check? Is this list in the factory
service manual?

One last thing, where should I order a SS brake line from? (Fred?) What is
the cost?

Thanks for any/all responses!


Jeff Bixby
Automation Instructor
Dunwoody MMLC

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) T.V. program review of the KLR is done......
Date: 29 Mar 1999 10:12:39 EST

O.K. guys, I finished the "Resurrection Riders" television program where we
reviewed the KLR 650. It aired Saturday, and will air this week sometime.
A bunch of people e-mailed me personally, and asked if I could put some clips
from it up on the website. Well...sure, I'm willing, but I have no clue as to
how to go about it. I can send a VHS copy of the show to Kurt or somebody that
could make mpegs of it or whatever. I don't have anything to send the video
into my computer so if we're gonna do this, you guys gotta help me.........The
video does have some nice KLR clutchless wheelie shots!

Bill Swindle
A12 "Moose" (Now a movie star!)
Montgomery, IL.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New Bike Service
Date: 29 Mar 1999 08:36:02 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Picked up my A13 on Friday, $5000 out the door from a very reputable
dealer.

Good for you!

>Due to weather conditions and S.O. rankings (I appeared to have forgotten
to
>inform her about my intentions!)

DOH!!!

>I only put 200 miles on it this weekend. So far so good.....

>My salesman recommended that I change the oil at 500 miles and wait for the
>initial service until 1000 miles. What are your thoughts on this?

I'd go with the 500 mile check up.  Lots can change as your bike is breaking
in and in 1000 miles you may do major damage if not checked earlier.

>Should I check valve clearances at 500 miles to be safe? Are the valve
cover
>gaskets reusable?

YES & YES if you are careful.

>Also, I plan on doing the initial service myself with photo/video
>documentation as proof it was done correctly.
>
>Does anyone have the list of specific things to be checked/adjusted as per
>factory recommendations for the initial check? Is this list in the factory
>service manual?

I'd go with the service manual(s).  YES

>One last thing, where should I order a SS brake line from? (Fred?) What is
>the cost?

The Fastline SS brakeline is about $44 and the Russell is $48


Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) T.V. program review of the KLR is done......
Date: 29 Mar 1999 08:43:01 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>O.K. guys, I finished the "Resurrection Riders" television program where we
>reviewed the KLR 650. It aired Saturday, and will air this week sometime.
>A bunch of people e-mailed me personally, and asked if I could put some
clips
>from it up on the website. Well...sure, I'm willing, but I have no clue as
to
>how to go about it. I can send a VHS copy of the show to Kurt or somebody
that
>could make mpegs of it or whatever. I don't have anything to send the video
>into my computer so if we're gonna do this, you guys gotta help
me.........The
>video does have some nice KLR clutchless wheelie shots!
>
>Bill Swindle
>A12 "Moose" (Now a movie star!)
>Montgomery, IL.


This is a great idea!  I believe our "ex- resident" video expert was Steve
Rottenberg.  I think he just unsubscribed but you can reach him at:
[e-mail]  Tell him I sent you.

Good luck!

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 29 Mar 1999 11:44:20 -0500

Kurt Simpson wrote:
> Sleeping bag: I used TNF Cat's Meow ...works great

YES! I spent many a season as an outdoor guide in and around WNC (mostly
Asheville) and my TNF Cat's Meow was supreme. In its sixth year of
service, I can't part with it. It washes up nicely, fits my Granite Gear
conpression sack like a dream, and I think the bag cost less than $200
brand new. Do they still make that model even? Any prospective bag
buyers out there would be wise to consider it if they do. It is strictly
a mild to cool climate bag, not truly intended for the subzero duty.

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "John L. Wilson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Honda Mirrors
Date: 29 Mar 1999 10:55:41 -0600

I will confirm the same thing as Juan Villarreal.  I purchased the Honda mirrors and they came
with the dampers on the stocks and they threaded right in to the stock KLR mirror mounts.

John

===========================================================
John L. Wilson       '95 KLR 650         '96 R1100RT         STOC #090
[e-mail]     HSTA #5817    IBMWR   BMWMOA   Tulsa, OK
===========================================================



I'm not too clear on what Kurt was describing but
the Honda mirrors I bought screwed right into the
stock Kawasaki mounts (if that's what you're
asking).


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From: "John L. Wilson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR Fork Brace
Date: 29 Mar 1999 11:21:45 -0600

There was a message from someone in the recent week regarding the
Telefix front fork brace for the KLR 650.  I have recently been told by
another person that the Telefix fork brace for the KLR 650 doesn't fit
properly and that he returned his and that he was subsequently told that
same story by someone else who had purchased the Telefix from SpecII in
California.

Can anyone confirm or refute the above--that the Telefix fork brace for
the KLR 650 doesn't fit?

Thanks in Advance

John
===========================================================
John L. Wilson       '95 KLR 650         '96 R1100RT         STOC #090
[e-mail]     HSTA #5817    IBMWR   BMWMOA   Tulsa, OK
===========================================================



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 29 Mar 1999 12:20:21 +0000

At 11:44 AM 3/29/99 -0500, J.Taylor wrote:
>Kurt Simpson wrote:
>> Sleeping bag: I used TNF Cat's Meow ...works great
>
>YES! I spent many a season as an outdoor guide in and around WNC (mostly
>Asheville) and my TNF Cat's Meow was supreme. In its sixth year of
>service, I can't part with it. It washes up nicely, fits my Granite Gear
>conpression sack like a dream, and I think the bag cost less than $200
>brand new. Do they still make that model even? Any prospective bag
>buyers out there would be wise to consider it if they do. It is strictly
>a mild to cool climate bag, not truly intended for the subzero duty.
>



    Personaly, I have two Wiggys bags, a Desert and an Ultralight, out of
which I have put together something of a modular system. The build quality
is good and the unique Lamilite insulation lives up to its billing in being
both warm and not prone to build-ups of clamminess.



-Tom
'96 KLR 650


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From: "Desmond, Richard - TAFB/LASPO2" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE: NKLR RTV
Date: 29 Mar 1999 12:57:51 -0600

Skip,

>This applies to not only aircraft, but all engines. If some of you
>have sealed your cylinder bases with RTV, when a gasket was
>called for, I don`t intend to insult, but you screwed up.

Thanks a bunch for this info. Never would have known about it otherwise. In
the past I've used Yamabond 4 instead of a base gasket, do you know if
suffers from the same problems as RTV?

Rich CMRA #352

'99 SV650
'97 900CR
'86 RZ500 (for sale)
'85 RZ350 x 2
'86 XT350 (for sale)
'80 GS1000S
'76 CB400
racing EX's

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From: Eric Winslow <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Pilot screw setting and seat.
Date: 29 Mar 1999 13:59:13 -0500 (EST)

Howdy.

I took my carb out this weekend to find out what it's problem is,
particularly at small throttle openings. The first thing I discovered,
after drilling out the plug, is that the pilot screw was fully seated.
Shouldn't this be backed out at least 1 and a half turns? I backed it out
a bit, slapped the carb back in, but, alas, my problem remained. I was
hoping for a quick fix. Now I've got the carb out again and will break it
down to look for clogged jets and such.

Question 2 is, when putting the seat back on, where does the plastic
flange on the front of the seat go? Does it go in between the two metal
supports for the tank or underneath the bottom piece of metal. I don't
have an owner's manual to look this up in.

Thanks.

Eric A8


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From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fork Brace
Date: 29 Mar 1999 12:23:31 -0800

I don't know if it fits or not, the person who recently posted was, I think,
"Obe Wan" aka Tim Bernard of Driveline Specialities.  I do think the KLR
needs a brace, and would LOVE to see one that works.  My brother is a
tool-maker with a MASSIVE home machine shop...
Cheers!
Beez


John L. Wilson wrote:

> There was a message from someone in the recent week regarding the
> Telefix front fork brace for the KLR 650.  I have recently been told by
> another person that the Telefix fork brace for the KLR 650 doesn't fit
> properly and that he returned his and that he was subsequently told that
> same story by someone else who had purchased the Telefix from SpecII in
> California.
>
> Can anyone confirm or refute the above--that the Telefix fork brace for
> the KLR 650 doesn't fit?
>
> Thanks in Advance
>
> John
> ===========================================================
> John L. Wilson       '95 KLR 650         '96 R1100RT         STOC #090
> [e-mail]     HSTA #5817    IBMWR   BMWMOA   Tulsa, OK
> ===========================================================
>
> All messages to klr650 must be 'plain text' only...no attachments...
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From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Wheelies
Date: 29 Mar 1999 12:52:33 PST

>into my computer so if we're gonna do this, you guys gotta help me.........The
>video does have some nice KLR clutchless wheelie shots!
>Bill Swindle

So, Bill, while we're waiting for the movie, how about describing
your technique for those of us who are wheelie impaired?

Marick


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) tire pressure
Date: 29 Mar 1999 13:16:23 PST

>sitting on it it didn't feel as though it needed air), the back tire
>had only 20 PSI!  My first stop was the gas station to fill both up
>to 22 PSI (according to the manual 21 PSOI should be correct - just
>wanted that 1 pound extra margin)
>Paul

Paul,

22 pounds may well be too low for highway use, depending upon what
type of tire you are running.  The general consensus on the
Gripsters I'm using, for instance, is that they should have 34
pounds, more or less, which works very well.

Marick


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Leather Gloves...NKLR
Date: 29 Mar 1999 14:17:08 -0700



>Any suggestions on where to pick up the Yellowstones?
>Thanks!
>Chris

I found a service station that sells them...also a local lumber company. Why not call them and
ask them if they have a distributor in your area or if you can buy direct...

Yellowstone Leather Products
 284 S Colorado Ave
 Idaho Falls, ID 83402
 [phone]



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tire pressure
Date: 29 Mar 1999 14:21:21 -0700


>22 pounds may well be too low for highway use, depending upon what
>type of tire you are running.  The general consensus on the
>Gripsters I'm using, for instance, is that they should have 34
>pounds, more or less, which works very well.
>
>Marick


I agree, when I went up to at least 28...the front end wiggle vanished...

Kurt


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From: "Randy Golla" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Ideas
Date: 29 Mar 1999 14:14:11 PST

As long as the issue of vibration is going around with mirrors. I was
just wondering if anyone has ever thought about rubber mounting the
engine in the Klr frame. I've been turning it over in my head the last
couple of days and came up with a design for front and upper motor
mounts that might just work. To what extent I don't know. It requires
making some new mounts but I'm going to start on this next week. I'll
keep everyone informed if it works or not. I also wanted to say that I
started to make some plans for pvc saddle tubes. Can we all say Cheap
Tuff Waterproof and Lockable. I got some big 10 inch tube and it's the
perfect size for my sleeping bag, tent and other gear. These will also
protect the bike very well if the misfortunate spill does happen. That
and I won't kill myself for messing up my expensive aluminum box if I do
crash.

Randy

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From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) A couple quick questions...
Date: 29 Mar 1999 14:41:36 -0800 (PST)

I'm in the midst of replacing both my tires and it
looks like it would be a good opportunity to
re-lube some items.  Is there anything besides the
axles that could use a fresh coat of grease?
Also...  Could someone let me in on what the
diameter is (in millimeters) of the front axle
nut?  Thanks in advance...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"

P.S.  To the fella who asked about the seat
prongs...  It goes BETWEEN the two prongs located
aft of the tank.  Good luck!

_________________________________________________________
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From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) DAAAANG!  IT!
Date: 29 Mar 1999 15:18:59 -0800

Well, I'm a little over 100 miles into my newly rebuilt top end, and MAN is it
hard staying under 4krpm!  :P  Already I've had a couple of forays to 5k and one
to six or seven, and I HAVE 15x39 sprockets!  This is gonna be tough, but I
don't have to go the full 500 miles on just a new top end do I?  :)

First problem, my turnsignals stopped working altogether a couple of miles after
I put it back together from the rebuild.  I figured I bumped a connector loose
but I checked all that.  I did the checks in the manual:  I have continuity
across the flasher relay and there's power at it's connector when I turn on the
turnsignals.  I don't believe that I burned out all four bulbs simultaneously (
I didn't rev it THAT high!  :-) )  And I don't think I tore four wires out of
the harness all at once.  Anybody know what I should check next?  Where are the
other single point failures in the turnsignal wiring?  I have a helluva time
with that manual schematic.  Yick.

Cheers everybody?
Chris



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fork Brace
Date: 29 Mar 1999 18:51:44 -0500


Can I ask a question about this fork brace I hear about every once in a
while? There is a company called Super Brace that advertises a fork brace
for the KLR650. However, my attempts to find out more, like actually see a
picture, have been abit fruitless. Isn't this what we're after or am I
confusing this with something else?
I have the URL if anyone is interested.
Many Thanks, NY Pete


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From: [e-mail] (Allan Phipps)
Subject: (klr650) NKLR:  Tank bags
Date: 29 Mar 1999 17:08:47 -0800

I've been reading the archives regarding tank bags and I have a question
for you.  Can you use a magnetic tank bag with Aerostitch tank panniers??
I would like to get a magnetic bag but I also want the option of getting
tank panniers later on.

Al
96 KLR



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Tires
Date: 29 Mar 1999 16:05:16 -0800 (PST)

Vik,

I decided to go with another set of IRC GP-110s.
Though I'm by no means an expert in the judgment
of tires, they seem to work well for me.
Excellent on pavement, great in rain (a real
factor in this part of the world), and quite solid
in dirt and gravel.  I would say it's street/dirt
factor is about 75/25, maybe 70/30.  I got 6500
miles out of the rear before it blew...  The front
looks like it go another thousand or so, tho' I'm
replacing it too just to stay on the safe side.

I'm looking to experiment with other types but I
figured it would be best to wait until I'm safely
back in the States to do that.  I've gotten to
know the feel and limitations of this particular
brand so I figured I should take advantage of that
for my upcoming journey.  Another bonus is the
awesome howl they make when you hit the curves on
pavement.  That alone is almost worth the price of
admission!  All in all a great value for the money
(about $100/pair U.S. out of Dennis Kirk.)- alot
like the KLR...  Take care, Juan

--- Vik Banerjee <[e-mail]> wrote:
> Sorry, no help on the lube question.  What
tires
> did you decide to replace
> with?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Vik

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From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR:  Tank bags
Date: 29 Mar 1999 17:05:09 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>I've been reading the archives regarding tank bags and I have a question
>for you.  Can you use a magnetic tank bag with Aerostitch tank panniers??
>I would like to get a magnetic bag but I also want the option of getting
>tank panniers later on.


Yes!

Cheers,

Vik



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR650 - DSN
Date: 29 Mar 1999 19:08:32 +0000

FWIW,

I'd like to say that I found the article in the most recent DSN
pertaining to the CVK40 most informative and of real use if I need to do
any trouble shooting or enhancements.  Good deal.

Jeff
A2

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Ken Belfatto" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR How do I subscribe to DSN?
Date: 29 Mar 1999 18:18:55 -0600

Can someone tell me how to subscribe to the Dual Sport News magazine?

Thanks in advance
Kenny


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Clay <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tire pressure
Date: 29 Mar 1999 18:19:34 -0600 (CST)

At 21:21 -0000 29/3/99, Kurt Simpson wrote:
>>22 pounds may well be too low for highway use, depending upon what
>>type of tire you are running.  The general consensus on the
>>Gripsters I'm using, for instance, is that they should have 34
>>pounds, more or less, which works very well.
>>
>>Marick
>
>
>I agree, when I went up to at least 28...the front end wiggle vanished...
>
>Kurt

I must admit, this KLR tire pressure business has always bothered me. Why
does Kawasaki recommend such low pressures if they aren't correct?

Tom Clay
Winnipeg MB [finally riding weather!]




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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First-time questions
Date: 29 Mar 1999 16:34:33 -0800

>Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
>"The Happy Hooligan"
>
>P.S.  I switched to a pair of Honda XR650L
>mirrors, it's helped immensely.


Did the Honda mirrors screw right into the Kawi handle bar mounts?  Details
please!

I only have a bad vibration problem with the left hand mirror.  I'm assuming
the right mirror is good because of the brake master cylinder dampening the
vibes on the right side.  Maybe if I found a hydraulic clutch......

Jeff


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First-time questions
Date: 29 Mar 1999 17:39:44 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>
Cc: KLR  650 <[e-mail]>


>>Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
>>"The Happy Hooligan"
>>
>>P.S.  I switched to a pair of Honda XR650L
>>mirrors, it's helped immensely.
>
>
>Did the Honda mirrors screw right into the Kawi handle bar mounts?  Details
>please!

The XR650L mirrors with dampers will screw into the KLR mounts.

>I only have a bad vibration problem with the left hand mirror.  I'm
assuming
>the right mirror is good because of the brake master cylinder dampening the
>vibes on the right side.  Maybe if I found a hydraulic clutch......

Your in luck.... http://www.billetanium.com/ Well maybe.

Fred






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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 29 Mar 1999 16:46:32 -0800


Unfortunately I had to take the Sport Utility Cage down and back, cause we
took the little spud along.  Not sure if I'd want to make that 17 hour ride
anyway.

For those of you from CA, do you do that lane splitting crap?   I saw this
total dick on a Honda Shadow splitting the lane, and purposefully knocking
the side mirrors of those cars he thought were too close to the center line
for his liking with his hands.  I was kind of hoping somebody would swerve
in.  Jerks like that give us all a bad stigma in the publics eye.

I was wondering if southern CA kids grow up myopic, since they can't focus
on anything in the distance due to the smog...I don't have any bad feelings
towards the EPA after seeing that mess.

Coming back through Oregon, they had a late season snow storm.  I averaged
about 50 mph, and saw two jack knifed trucks, and a car totaled into some
trees off the highway.

Good to see la familia though.....No offense to you from CA, but I hate your
state.   Too many people, too much traffic, too much pollution, too much.

Jeff----from The Evergreen State


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tire pressure
Date: 29 Mar 1999 17:45:44 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>At 21:21 -0000 29/3/99, Kurt Simpson wrote:
>>>22 pounds may well be too low for highway use, depending upon what
>>>type of tire you are running.  The general consensus on the
>>>Gripsters I'm using, for instance, is that they should have 34
>>>pounds, more or less, which works very well.
>>>
>>>Marick
>>
>>
>>I agree, when I went up to at least 28...the front end wiggle vanished...
>>
>>Kurt
>
>I must admit, this KLR tire pressure business has always bothered me. Why
>does Kawasaki recommend such low pressures if they aren't correct?

The tire recommendation from Kawasaki is correct for the purposes that the
KLR was designed to do.  The KLR is a multi purpose vehicle.  Meaning it was
meant to ride off road with lowered pressure and on the highway with raised
tire pressure.  The 22psi recommendation is a happy medium.  If you really
want to get down to it you could change your tire pressure for each
different situation.  But who would really want to do that.  Leaving it at
22psi will let you do all sorts of terrain.  Good all around setting.

If you are going to stay on the pavement you can run more air and if you are
going to stay off road then you can run less.

Fred


>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated vests.and Grips
Date: 29 Mar 1999 16:49:28 -0800

>2. Install a headlight relay/switch so you can shut off your headlamp
during
>the day when you are plodding along at low RPM and don't need it.  This
will
>free up power so you can run your vest and grips.
>


This is illegal in Washington, and I'm assuming in other states as well.
Just thought I'd point that out.

Jeff


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) A couple quick questions...
Date: 29 Mar 1999 17:45:52 -0700

    Juan, I'm going by memory; I'm at work, but no one else has answered
so far. I believe it's 22mm. Brake lever & clutch lever + lower clutch
linkage could use some grease. Bogdan


    Could someone let me in on what the
    diameter is (in millimeters) of the front axle
    nut?  Thanks in advance...

    Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
    "The Happy Hooligan"

    P.S.  To the fella who asked about the seat
    prongs...  It goes BETWEEN the two prongs located
    aft of the tank.  Good luck!

    _________________________________________________________
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From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) First-time questions
Date: 29 Mar 1999 16:44:00 -0800 (PST)

> Did the Honda mirrors screw right into the Kawi
> handle bar mounts?  Details
> please!

It's like deja vu all over again...  Yes Jeff, the
Honda XR mirrors screw right into the Kawasaki
mounts with no problems.  Later...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"

P.S.  Does anybody out there remember my grease
question?  Thanks for carin'!
_________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Clutch
Date: 29 Mar 1999 16:50:59 -0800

Did anybody ever write up the clutch replacement?  I don't see anything on
dualsport.org.  My new top end must be making some POWER because I can make the
clutch slip at 4krpm by just rolling on the throttle fast.  I have 3mm of clutch
lever free play.
Cheers!
Chris



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) tire pressure
Date: 29 Mar 1999 17:53:14 -0700

    That's still high enough to navigate through a lot of rocks? Bogdan

    But who would really want to do that.  Leaving it at
    22psi will let you do all sorts of terrain.  Good all around
setting.




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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR-Civil wars
Date: 29 Mar 1999 16:54:19 -0800 (PST)

"No offense to you from CA, but I hate your
state."

Oh sure Jeff, I'm not betting on anyone from
California taking offense to that statement.  Now
if you would allow me to get under a table before
the fur starts flying...

Juan Villarreal (proud Missourian), '97 KLR
"The Neutral Hooligan"
_________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated vests.and Grips
Date: 29 Mar 1999 17:50:50 -0700



>>2. Install a headlight relay/switch so you can shut off your headlamp
>during
>>the day when you are plodding along at low RPM and don't need it.  This
>will
>>free up power so you can run your vest and grips.
>>
>
>
>This is illegal in Washington, and I'm assuming in other states as well.
>Just thought I'd point that out.


Jeff,

Its probably illegal here too, but I am not overly concerned as the idea
would be use the switch only when you were running for long periods at low
RPM - most likely off-road.

Cheers,

Vik



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From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tire pressure
Date: 29 Mar 1999 18:03:37 -0700


-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


That's still high enough to navigate through a lot of rocks? Bogdan

But who would really want to do that.  Leaving it at
22psi will let you do all sorts of terrain.  Good all around
setting.


I read somewhere that there is not much to be gained in tube pinch
protection in raising tire pressure over 16 to18psi.  More pressure will
make your tire slip more off road but will run cooler on the highway.  You
want a certain amount of tire flex off road but less tire flex on road is
better.  Flex=heat and heat=tire wear.





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From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tire pressure
Date: 29 Mar 1999 20:00:52 -0500

Hi all,
Tires and tire pressure..........
On the street I run at the pressures stamped on the sidewall, give or take a
coupla' pounds, and never had any problems, however on the dirt I run real
low pressures and maybe I'm running too low.
My current rear is an IRC GP-1 and the side wall reads 33 lbs cold, off-road
I run about 8-12 pounds depending on how muddy it is.
The front is the OEM Dunlop K750(?), I forget the street pressure, but the
off-road pressure is usually the same.
Aside from my front being just about gone, the traction I get at these
pressures is phenomenal. The diff, is night and day, and to be honest
sometimes the pressure is maybe 6-8 lbs.
Now my guage my be off a bit, but am I doing unnessessary damage at these
pressures, such as sidewalls?
Thanks much, NY Pete


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From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tire pressure
Date: 29 Mar 1999 18:12:52 -0700


-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>Hi all,
>Tires and tire pressure..........
>On the street I run at the pressures stamped on the sidewall, give or take
a
>coupla' pounds, and never had any problems, however on the dirt I run real
>low pressures and maybe I'm running too low.
>My current rear is an IRC GP-1 and the side wall reads 33 lbs cold,
off-road
>I run about 8-12 pounds depending on how muddy it is.

The pressure on the sidewall is the maximum pressure at which the tire can
carry the greatest load.  It is not the same as the recommended tire
pressure of the manufacture.  Unless you are going to haul a load of bricks
or have just robbed Fort Knox a reduced pressure will make the bike ride
smoother on the road and probably make your tire last a little longer.

and to be honest
>sometimes the pressure is maybe 6-8 lbs.
>Now my guage my be off a bit, but am I doing unnessessary damage at these
>pressures, such as sidewalls?

I wouldn't worry about the sidewalls so much but running this low pressure
is asking for a pinched tube in your near future especially if you ride
around Moab.

I run 15psi front and rear off road and 22 psi on/off road.

Fred
>Thanks much, NY Pete
>
>


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From: "KTM Owners Group" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Site Update
Date: 29 Mar 1999 20:17:19 -0500

The KTM Owners website has been updated. You'll find more pics of people
living with KTMs, a direct help page to Holeshot KTM that will answer your
every KTM question, links, stories and more.

Check it out and add to our site. For KTM lovers, by KTM lovers...

http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Cliffs/5604

Thanks A Million...
Mr. KTM
1996 KTM RXC620


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From: "John B. Hillstrom" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 29 Mar 1999 17:20:35 -0800 (PST)

Jeff,

> Good to see la familia though.....No offense to you from CA, but I hate your
> state.   Too many people, too much traffic, too much pollution, too much.

Yeah, there are way too many people, cars etc. but what can you expect from a
state with the best combo of weather, surfing, skiing, off-roading, etc in the
country, AND tons of high-paid jobs...  I'd love to keep everyone out, but
there's that 'free country' crap gettin' in my way from putting up big fences
(particularly on the north border to keep you moss-heads out :)

As for lane-splitting, I only do it at speeds below 75 mph.  Makes the commute a
lot more exciting.

Hitting the mirrors though is a extraordinarily lame - sure isn't going to make
the cagers happy to see another one of us the next time.

-John

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


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From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: ARAI DUAL SPORT HELMET
Date: 29 Mar 1999 18:35:42 -0800

I have an Arai Dual Sport Helmet. I love it.  It costs too much but I have a
very expensive head!  My wife has a bike now and is learning to ride (we
both signed up for the msf course thanks to all for the reccomendations I'll
keep you posted).  Any way HER head is even more expensive than mine, what
with the hair and all.  I originally purchased mine from Motorcycle
Accessory Warehouse.  I know this helmet has been discontinued (along with
most things I ever thought were cool and groovy), however MAW still
advertises it.  I called them and they assured me they had several in stock
in the size I needed.  I said ship it.  After two weeks and 5 phone calls I
have found out....This helmet is discontinued and they don't have any and
that is why my order has not been shipped, regardless of the several they
said they had.  I don't want to rant about their ineptitude or poor customer
service, I just won't do business with them.  I have read numerous posts
from Listers that have recently purchased this helmet.  Does anyone know
where I might find one?  Does anyone know anything about the Bieffe 3 sport
helmet or another similar helmet suitable for on/off road riding.
Thanks in advance
Morgan, baffled at how some companies stay in business!




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From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) I've fallen and I can't get up...
Date: 29 Mar 1999 18:38:27 -0800 (PST)

Fellow listers...

Here's the situation:

- Bike is currently in neutral and elevated on
center stand.

- Axle has been run through rear rim, chain
tensioners and axle nut are still loose.

- Chain shows plenty of slack (remember, the bike
is elevated).

My problem?  The wheel will not turn freely.  I
have determined the friction point to be somewhere
in the rear brake mechanism.  What's up?  And
what's the fix?  Do I need to drop the wheel and
try it again?  Or do I need to do something with
the rear brake?  I'm wondering if it might have
something to do with the two allen bolts that
secure it to the bike, as in loosening and
re-tightening...  Please help me, because I'm
planning on taking another crack at it tomorrow.
Muchas gracias...

Juan Villarreal (go U-Conn!  I hate dynasties...),
'97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"

_________________________________________________________
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: Valve Clearances
Date: 29 Mar 1999 21:18:33 EST

I finished adjusting the valve clearances tonight.   Thanks to everyone who
provided info and advice, especially Eldon Carl (who wrote the instructions
posted on the website) & Kurt Simpson (who filled in add'l info), also Fred at
Arrowhead Motorsports, who had the shims in stock (Three Houston area dealers
didn't), also others who responded to my questions about liquid gasket, etc.

KenReither
Kingwood, TX (Houston)
99KLR650 with 976 miles.

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From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: ARAI DUAL SPORT HELMET
Date: 29 Mar 1999 21:57:59 -0500

It's MAW man; come to expect the worst. I have vowed to never believe a
word they say and only half of what I see them do.

Jake, wondering, like you are, how they stay around.

Robert Morgan wrote:
 however MAW still
> advertises it.  I called them and they assured me they had several in stock
> in the size I needed.  I said ship it.  After two weeks and 5 phone calls I
> have found out....This helmet is discontinued and they don't have any and
> that is why my order has not been shipped, regardless of the several they
> said they had.  I don't want to rant about their ineptitude or poor customer
> service,

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trippin'
Date: 29 Mar 1999 21:46:12 EST


In a message dated 3/29/99 5:41:32 PM, [e-mail] writes:

>For those of you from CA, do you do that lane splitting crap?
>I saw this total dick on a Honda Shadow splitting the lane, and
>purposefully knocking the side mirrors of those cars he thought
>were too close to the center line for his liking with his hands.


   i saw that dick too Jeff- when he passed me i noticed he had

an army ranger sticker on the tank and a washington license plate

   but rest assured there is justice in this world- about 100 yards up

a jarhead in a cage cut him off and forced him into the divider

   dawn--i am--others only wish they all could be california girls


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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) WI ride and BMWs
Date: 29 Mar 1999 19:23:56 -0800



>Count me in for a ride to Cheeseland!!!
>The battery gets reinstalled Saturday. Next I have to order tires, and am
>seriously considering some knobby cheap Kendas. Big miles, big knobs, low
>bucks, and scary turns.....
>
Ever consider the Maxis dual purpose tires?  The tread design looks good and
the price is right.  I'm curious about these.  I almost got a set, but I
went with the tried and true IRC GP-1's cheapos instead.  I'm considering a
DOT knobby next.

Jeff


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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (KLR650) NKLR-Gunk Chain Lube
Date: 29 Mar 1999 19:19:45 -0800



>Any opinions on Gunk Motorcycle (and Farm Equipment) Chain Lube Spray?
>
>First of all I used to use PJ1, but this Gunk product is a whole
>different animal and I'm on my third can.
>
>My findings are that it applies like a lightweight liquid wax that goes
>on clean and stays clean (contains a mineral oil).  It doesn't build up
>a lot of crud like the molybdenum disulphide products and doesn't
>attract sand as much.
>
>It seems to adhere well and doesn't fly off like some lubes that can
>spot your passengers clothing or baggage.
>
>The only drawback I think is that it has to be reapplied more often
>because of its consistency.  Since the chain seems to remain fairly
>clean by comparison (though the o-rings look moist), I find that it
>needs to be retreated about every three hundred miles depending on rain
>or terrain because the links start looking dry.  Most of my riding is
>backroad twisties or forest roads....not too much in soft sand.  The
>chain life will tell the story for sure.  Just seems to me to be one of
>the best kept secrets for motorcycle chain lube or I have missed
>something here (not to mention it's cheap at three bucks a can).
>


Chain wax all the way baby!  I've used the hell out of PJ-1, black and blue,
and while its a good lube, I had to scrub the chain and sprockets every 500
or so miles.  But then again, I do a lot of desert riding.  So far, the
Maxim chain wax has kept my chain nice and clean, and seems to lube really
well.  When dry, it reminds me of the packing grease that new weapons come
in.  I've found that the chain wax works really well for lubing cables too,
except that it might take a while to get the lube all the way down the
sheath.

Jeff


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From: Mark <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) T.V. program review of the KLR is done......
Date: 29 Mar 1999 22:33:19 -0500


>>Bill Swindle
>>A12 "Moose" (Now a movie star!)
>>Montgomery, IL.
>


While we're on the topic of TV, watch the premiere of NOVA's "Volcanoes of
the Deep" Tuesday on PBS at 8:00 PM. I appear in it for10 seconds at about
the 20 minute mark. I'm the guy in the pink shirt carrying the tubeworms.
I'm also mistakenly referred to as a student.

Mark (still waiting for my other 14 minutes and 50 seconds)
B2
A2



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From: Hugh Stout <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Help on Riding Pants
Date: 29 Mar 1999 08:26:17 -0800

At 06:51 PM 3/28/99 -0700, Fred Hink wrote:

>
>Sounds like you are looking for the FirstGear Hypertex overpants.
>Waterproof, full length 2 way zipper, armor in the knees and hips.  No Blue
>and Flames though, sorry.  How about some with pink pokka dots?  Black is
>$184.95 with 1 year warranty.
>
>How about some MSR ISDE Gore-tex pants.  Blue or Black are $214.95  I wear
>these and really like them except for trail riding in Moab in the summer
>they are a little on the hot side.
>
>Fred Hink

I've got the Hypertex overpants and matching Kilimenjaro jacket and can't
say enough good about them.  I've worn them all day in the rain and stayed
dry except for a little leakage around the crotch.  Never tried the armor
in a get-off, but it's comforting and makes my 650 tank feel like the
rubber pads on the /6.


Hugh Stout
'74 R90/6
'78 CB400T2
'94 KLR650

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Wheelies and stuff.
Date: 29 Mar 1999 22:11:16 EST

In a message dated 3/29/99 12:55:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< So, Bill, while we're waiting for the movie, how about describing
 your technique for those of us who are wheelie impaired?
  >>
I always rode wheelies alot riding motocross bikes growing up, so I'm having
to sit here and think about technique............My particular KLR has always
been fairly easy to pull wheelies on, but it's gotten easier since the
addition of the IDS pipe/Dynojet kit/K&N filter. I really don't even think
much about it, but all I have to do is just crack the throttle and tug a
little and the Moose will come right up. Then you milk the throttle to keep it
up, unless you wanna change gears.
I don't think it's just my bike though, I think I could ride a wheelie on any
KLR. My back tire is suffering severely from this wheelie thing though, I
wouldn't recommend it! "CAN YOU SAY NEW GRIPSTERS SOON"?
Even riding a short high wheelie takes alotta practice. I just did it a lot as
a kid and teenager, so it's easy for me now even on sportbikes. There is
another guy on this list who likes to ride multiple gear wheelies on his KLR;
at least he used to be here. I think his code name is Chaos, or Kaos or
something like that. He's the real wheelie guy; I just toy around with it.
Anyway, I think any KLR has sufficient power and gearing to wheelie over
little bumps and logs and stuff; that's fun too!

Check this out everybody,
A friend just asked me to get his KDX200 ready for the summer. Brought it over
to leave in my garage for the whole summer also, cuz he doesn't have a garage.
He rarely rides it (cuz it scares him), and wants me to ride it whenever I
want after I get it ready; so it doesn't just sit all summer again. Cool. I've
got a pure dirt bike to ride again. Hmmmmmmmm, can I still wheelie a 2-stroke?
Soon we will see.....

Bill Swindlle
A12 "Moose"
Montgomery, IL.

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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: NKLR RTV
Date: 29 Mar 1999 19:40:58 -0800


>It should never be used anywhere on a cylinder or case.


>   I don`t want to hear about "so and so has been using RTV on his car
>engines with no problems etc....."    Only in low stress and
>non critical-clearance areas should it be used. Like valve covers.
>It will just continue to compress and torques are not sustainable where RTV
>is used. Gaskets should always be used in stress areas.

On two different bikes, an YZ 250, and a CR 480 that I've had, both used a
liquid sealant between the case halves.  Also, all VW air-cooled engines use
a liquid sealant between its case halves.  I don't think that it is a
non-hardening sealant like RTV though.  Actually, I personally used A LOT of
RTV on my VW's, on the valve cover gaskets, as I usually adjusted the valves
at every oil change.  You are definitely right about its danger of clogging
up oil passages though.  I helped a friend rebuild an engine that failed
because of this.  I always applied the RTV sparingly in between the valve
cover gasket and the valve cover (never between the gasket and the head),
and let it cure for a couple of hours before I reinstalled the cover, and
then let the motor sit overnight before running.  My hopped up bug engine
went through a sand rail and two different bugs and never died on me.  I
still see the new owner driving it around sometimes.  Point is, there are
uses for it, it just has to be the right application.   I'm currently using
it on my KLR to help seal the drain plug where the previous nimrod owner
used a screwdriver to gouge off the crush washer.

Jeff


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From: Jeff Hayden <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Headlight laws, helmet laws, and other laws...
Date: 29 Mar 1999 20:36:36 -0700

>>2. Install a headlight relay/switch so you can shut off your headlamp
during
>>the day when you are plodding along at low RPM and don't need it.  This
will
>>free up power so you can run your vest and grips.
>>


>This is illegal in Washington, and I'm assuming in other states as well.
>Just thought I'd point that out.

>Jeff

Group,

These are the states require that the motorcycle headlight be used in
daytime:
               AK CA DE FL GA IL IN IA KS ME MN MT NY NC OK OR SC
               TN WA WV WI WY.

I found all sorts of motorcycle related laws at:

http://www.cgcweb.com/helmet.htm  ;^)
--
Jeff, KLR650-A13 ---




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From: "Robert Morgan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  CALIFORNIA CAMOFLAGE
Date: 29 Mar 1999 19:36:14 -0800

JEFF
I'm very surprised our URBAN CAMOUFLAGE fooled a cunning Ranger like
yourself.  You see we devious Californians learned well from the loggers up
north, that if you leave a couple hundred yards of trees next to the road
people can't see that the whole damn state has been clear cut.  We cleverly
disguised our state with a couple of miles of URBAN SPRAWL on either side of
the freeway and millions of HOLOGRAPHIC CARS and a simulated SMOG SCREEN so
that tourists won't realize how cool it really is and MOVE HERE!  This
endeavor has not been inexpensive, we have had to employ most of Hollywood's
special effects genius as well as the Imagineers from Disneyland however YOU
WERE FOOLED!
MORGAN, kickin it at the beach, too cool, too hip, too now............
P.S.  I believe it was Frank Lloyd Wright who said " IF you picked up the U.
S. and shook it, anything that was loose would land in California"


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From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: ARAI DUAL SPORT HELMET
Date: 29 Mar 1999 20:45:03 -0700


-----Original Message-----


I have read numerous posts
>from Listers that have recently purchased this helmet.  Does anyone know
>where I might find one?

Sorry no clue.

>Does anyone know anything about the Bieffe 3 sport
>helmet or another similar helmet suitable for on/off road riding.


The Bieffe 3 sport compared to the Arai is like comparing  a Ferrari to a VW
bug.  The 3 sport is plastic and is OK if you have a plastic kind of head.
You should check out the Shoei Syncrotec or the Nolan N100 if you like that
sort of helmet.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cheap plastic waterproof panniers
Date: 29 Mar 1999 19:26:07 -0800

Regarding those of us who already have his old racks, Kurt wrote:

> As of Thursday he was debating developing a trade-in program where you
> could send him your
> regular racks and he would give credit on the SU's. He then would bead
> blast and re-powder coat
> the originals (which he will continue to offer for softside luggage
> protection) and sell
> perhaps for a reduced price...he's not sure it is worth the hassle...

I'd settle for a way to retrofit the old ones, maybe just some bracket that
could attach with hose clamps or something.


--
Rob Gendreau
Oakland, California
[e-mail]

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From: "Rob Gendreau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 29 Mar 1999 19:32:41 -0800

Jeff said:

> Good to see la familia though.....No offense to you from CA, but I hate your
> state.   Too many people, too much traffic, too much pollution, too much.

Don't worry. We'll all be living up there soon enough.

--
Rob Gendreau
Oakland, California
[e-mail]

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From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I've fallen and I can't get up...
Date: 29 Mar 1999 22:44:28 -0500

Juan, it's late and my bike is not in front of me so I can't be sure but I
believe that this is why.

What has happened is that without the rotor between the pads they have gotten
too close together through normal relaxation.  You need to push the caliper
back to increase the gap between the pads.  On cars I use a C-clamp to do this.

You will note that you don't have an adjustment on the distance between the
pads.  This is because they touch the rotor all the time.  Without the rotor
there to hold them apart (while the wheel was out), they got too close together
and now are dragging heavily on the rotor.
I hope this is it for you.  -Tim


Juan Villarreal wrote:

> Fellow listers...
>
> Here's the situation:
>
> - Bike is currently in neutral and elevated on
> center stand.
>
> - Axle has been run through rear rim, chain
> tensioners and axle nut are still loose.
>
> - Chain shows plenty of slack (remember, the bike
> is elevated).
>
> My problem?  The wheel will not turn freely.  I
> have determined the friction point to be somewhere
> in the rear brake mechanism.  What's up?  And
> what's the fix?  Do I need to drop the wheel and
> try it again?  Or do I need to do something with
> the rear brake?  I'm wondering if it might have
> something to do with the two allen bolts that
> secure it to the bike, as in loosening and
> re-tightening...  Please help me, because I'm
> planning on taking another crack at it tomorrow.
> Muchas gracias...
>
> Juan Villarreal (go U-Conn!  I hate dynasties...),
> '97 KLR
> "The Happy Hooligan"
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> All messages to klr650 must be 'plain text' only...no attachments...
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From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 29 Mar 1999 19:51:05 -0800


> Yeah, there are way too many people, cars etc. but what can you
> expect from a
> state with the best combo of weather, surfing, skiing,
> off-roading, etc in the
> country, AND tons of high-paid jobs...  I'd love to keep everyone out, but
> there's that 'free country' crap gettin' in my way from putting
> up big fences
> (particularly on the north border to keep you moss-heads out :)

------
There were these three dudes walkin' down the beach near Santa Monica CA, a
Seatllite, an Oregonian, and a Californian.
They came across a beautiful bottle half buried in the sand...They each
helped unearth it and proceeded to clean it up and rub it down. PUFF !!!
--- Out pops this gnarly looking Genie.

The Genie announces they could each have one wish as they all helped free
him/her (?).

The Oregonian felt that since he was a farmer, his father was a farmer, and
his son would probably be a farmer, that the Genie should use his powers to
ensure that the soil in Oregon was always rich and able to sustain a good
crop.
               ++ The Genie said, "Done deal, you are a good man."

The Californian (having just moved to California himself) felt that since
his beloved state has so recently been overrun by various peoples from other
states and countries, perhaps it should be fenced off and protected from
future encroachment. The Californian suggested a concrete fence a mile high,
circling the entire state.

               ++ The Genie said, "Done deal."

The Seattlite paused for a moment to reflect...He asked the Genie, "How
thick is this wall? The Genie said, "fifty feet thick." The Seattlite then
proposed that for his one wish he would like to fill the concrete fence
protected California up with water.
               ++ The Genie said, "Done deal, you are a good man."

---
You know I'm just kidding right? Feel free to use this joke and apply it to
your favorite state. Massachusetts, NY, and Texas are also favorites!

Rik-- if my foots not on a bike peg, its most certainly in my mouth.


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From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Wheelies and stuff.
Date: 29 Mar 1999 22:55:00 -0500

I am by no means an expert at this.  However, here is how I do it.
In first gear get the bike rolling and then slow down until just before you need
to pull in the clutch.  At that moment roll on the throttle hard.  BE CAREFUL!
Doing this on my bike will cause the bike to throw you off if you are not paying
attention. If you are still having trouble getting the front end up, sit further
back on the seat to get weight off the front end.  I very very highly recommend
that you perfect this on the dirt before you even think about it on the street.
-Your rear brake will put the front wheel back down RIGHT NOW.  Try not to use
it.  Use throttle control instead.  Have fun, -Tim

> In a message dated 3/29/99 12:55:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << So, Bill, while we're waiting for the movie, how about describing
>  your technique for those of us who are wheelie impaired?
>   >>


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From: "Tom McKenzie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 20:10:17 -0800
Date: 29 Mar 1999 21:11:46 -0700

What would you do if you could take a year and a half off? I know what I
would do, 'cause I'm 53 and retired!. The more ambitious Mark Gilchrist,
a freelance writer and photographer, decided to "buy a motorcycle" and
spend the time "cruising your great country"--and to document the entire
experience on the Web at

http://www.trueamerica.com


Tom McKenzie
[e-mail]
A13, S2T Buell, Sportster Drag Bike


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From: "Tom McKenzie" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) resond
Date: 29 Mar 1999 20:17:35 -0800


"No offense to you from CA, but I hate your
state."

Oh sure Jeff, I'm not betting on anyone from
California taking offense to that statement.  Now
if you would allow me to get under a table before
the fur starts flying...

Juan Villarreal (proud Missourian), '97 KLR
"The Neutral Hooligan"

Juan sorry, you can't go under the table,   Monica's already there.

Tom McKenzie
[e-mail]
A13 S2T Sporty Dragger


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From: "Bruce  Hedquist" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) front sproket HELP ADVICE
Date: 29 Mar 1999 21:20:25 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>I have decided that my 1990 Tengai will seldom do much real off road work.
>Sure, I may run some gravel trails and maybe some sand, but for the most
part,
>this bike will do over 95% of it's miles on the paved road.  I want to drop
>the rpms at cruising speeds and have decided that the best way to do so
would
>be to go to a larger front sproket.
>
>I need the input and advice of those of you who know about such things.
>
>1.  If I go up one tooth, what will the rpm drop be in top gear?

If I recall, 5500rpm is around an indicated 80mph with the stock 15T
sprocket.  With the suggested 16T (Thank you, Fred), 5500 is now an
indicated 88mph.  5000rpm brings an even 80mph.

>2.  How many teeth can I go up on the front sproket?

Listen to Fred!  You will be amazed at the difference in feel and usability
on the pavement with the 16T.
>3.  What kind of acceleration will I give up if I go up one tooth?

A little more sluggish off the line.  However, for a street bike no big
deal.  In the sand or tough technical sections, you may live to regret it.

>4.  How long does it take to change the front sproket and is it necessary
to put on a new chain -- mine is relatively new.

15 minutes is all it took me.  Mine is a 92, I understand later models are
slightly different.

In summary, try the 16T.  I was tempted to a lot more, but am now glad Fred
talked me out of it.


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From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - 14min & 50 secs of fame
Date: 29 Mar 1999 20:33:52 -0800


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, March 29, 1999 7:33 PM


>
> >>Bill Swindle
> >>A12 "Moose" (Now a movie star!)
> >>Montgomery, IL.
> >
>
>
> While we're on the topic of TV, watch the premiere of NOVA's "Volcanoes of
> the Deep" Tuesday on PBS at 8:00 PM. I appear in it for10 seconds at about
> the 20 minute mark. I'm the guy in the pink shirt carrying the tubeworms.
> I'm also mistakenly referred to as a student.
>
> Mark (still waiting for my other 14 minutes and 50 seconds)
> B2
> A2


I just had my own debut of a sorts.  Being in the right place at the right
time, I found myself (6 months ago) in the chorus/cast of 'The Pirates of
Penzance", a Gilbert and Sullivan musical which was being put on by a local
theatre company.  The Director called me, had a listen to me, and I was in.
I should mention that I have never done anything like this before except for
a lead role in a musical while in elementary school.  Then as fate would
have it, one of the leads had to back out of the production because of
family problems.  One of the other leads encouraged me to audition.  I did
and the rest is history.  So I guess I was famous for a week.

Arne




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From: Guy Cheney <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Street Metzler tire pressure
Date: 29 Mar 1999 21:37:25

Hey Listees,

I'm running street Metzlers on the KLR, a ME33 up front and a ME55A on the
rear.  (I'm pretty sure somebody else is running this combo, but I can't
remember who.)  I'm running 24 psi front and rear.  The current discussion
on tire pressure piqued my curiosity.  If you're running this combo, or
really any other exclusively street tire combo, please share your pressure
with me.

TIA,

Guy


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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: ARAI DUAL SPORT HELMET
Date: 29 Mar 1999 22:18:38 -0700


|It's MAW man; come to expect the worst. I have vowed to never believe a
|word they say and only half of what I see them do.
|


Yep...MAW is a total crapshoot...one time you get something about 1/2 of what anyone else next
time they take your money and send you vapor...next time they sell you something for $32.35 and
charge you $27.95 S & H....

Kurt


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From: Alex Jomarron <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) wheelie envy
Date: 29 Mar 1999 21:21:29 -0800 (PST)

I wish I could wheelie.......


===
Alex Jomarron
Oak Park, IL USA
_________________________________________________________
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From: Jeff <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR-Civil wars cont.
Date: 29 Mar 1999 22:22:06 -0700

A Californian, a New Mexican, and a Texan, attending a convention in a
little town just outside Santa Fe, were standing in a seedy bar enjoying a
few drinks.

The Californian grabbed his wine spritzer, knocked it back in one gulp,
then he threw the glass against the back wall, smashing it to pieces. He
told the other startled drinkers the standard of living was so high in
California that they never drank out of the same glass twice.

Next, the Texan finished drinking his Margarita, and threw HIS glass
against the back wall. He loudly proclaimed that in Texas not only were
they all rich from oil, but they had so much sand glass was cheap and he
too never drank out of the same glass twice.

Next the New Mexican drank his beer, drew a revolver, and shot the
Californian and the Texan. As he was returning the gun to his holster, he
told the wide-eyed bartender that in New Mexico they had so many Texans and
Californians they never had to drink with the same ones twice.


I couldn't resist!  No excuses for this joke - AH - it's a joke!

I have even vacationed in California and worked in West Texas.
--
Jeff, NM-KLR650-A13 ---



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From: "Eric Jasniewicz" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Arai Dual Sport
Date: 29 Mar 1999 22:33:29 -0000

Well sorry dude, but the two shops that had them a few months ago are
apparently now sold out.  I don't know of anyone carrying them.  You could
try calling them:
www.motodepot.com
www.helmetshop.com


I mailed Arai a month or so ago, asking about replacement parts for the DS,
and if they planned to re-release or replace the model.  I no longer have
the email response, but basically they were seriously considering it.  Try
the arai website, email them and ask them if they plan to bring out a
DS-type model.  http://www.araiamericas.com/  Also ask them if they could
tell you who the largest distributors of the DS were, they might have a few
laying around the warehouse.  I've learned that if you inform a manufacturer
of a demand for a product, they often respond (Billetanium - hydraulic
clutch conversion, Electrex - regulator/stator, Acerbis - disk/fork guard).


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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 29 Mar 1999 21:44:00 -0800

>Don't worry. We'll all be living up there soon enough.
>
>--
>Rob Gendreau


"Exodus, movement of ja people"  Bob Marley

There actually has been funded studies done up here by the UW's College of
Forestry and Ecology on the phenomenon  called "Toxic Flight"  over the mass
exodus of people from areas like SO CAL, trying to go to less polluted
areas.  A lot of those turn into granola heads and move to Montana and such.
All I know is that ten years ago, before the mass exodus hit here from CA,
there was no traffic and Urban Sprawl.  Issaquah used to be a real back
woods town, and there was no air pollution or EPA smog checks required for
vehicles.  Since I've been back in WA for the last 2.5 years, I've seen the
traffic get worse and worse, and am actually seeing smog in Seattle, which
sometimes gets so bad it is visible all the way from Snoqualamie Pass.  I
love Seattle, and Western Washington, but thank God I'm living in Eastern
Washington now, where the air is clean, and there's no traffic (for now.)

For all you Californians looking to move to the Northwest, be advised;
Seattle has the "No Vacancy" light lit.  Last I heard, the vacancy rate for
rentals was less than 5%.  Landlords were going over tenant applications
like job resumes.  And the cost of housing in King, Pierce, and Snohomish
counties has skyrocketed.  So you'd be facing at least an hours commute one
way everyday, two if there's traffic (always), just to live here.  In
Eastern Washington, its all farming economy, so jobs can be scarce.  Just
doing my part being helpful!

Jeff


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From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Still wondering...
Date: 29 Mar 1999 21:38:11 -0800 (PST)

Ron,

Here's a copy of a message I sent in to the
list...  Can you help me out with this?  I've come
to the conclusion that the brake pads are
sandwiched around the rear brake rotor for some
reason.  How do I get some space back between
them?  Will I need to drop the wheel again?  I
remember Randy had the same problem when he helped
me with my first flat tire, but I don't remember
what he did to fix it.  I'm kind of annoyed with
the list for not taking much of an interest in it.
I'm starting to think the subjects are getting a
little limited and repetitive (i.e., carbs,
exhaust systems, luggage, repeat...).  I KNOW
somebody has to have seen this before!  Please let
me know...  Juan

> Fellow listers...
>
> Here's the situation:
>
> - Bike is currently in neutral and elevated on
> center stand.
>
> - Axle has been run through rear rim, chain
> tensioners and axle nut are still loose.
>
> - Chain shows plenty of slack (remember, the
> bike
> is elevated).
>
> My problem?  The wheel will not turn freely.  I
> have determined the friction point to be
> somewhere
> in the rear brake mechanism.  What's up?  And
> what's the fix?  Do I need to drop the wheel
and
> try it again?  Or do I need to do something
with
> the rear brake?  I'm wondering if I might have
> to do something with the two allen bolts that >
secure it to the bike, as in loosening and
> re-tightening...  Please help me, because I'm
> planning on taking another crack at it >
tomorrow...




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From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Still wondering...
Date: 29 Mar 1999 21:51:06 -0800

Chill out you hooligan!  :P  The list is always a little slow on mondays.
Yeah, you have to drop the wheel again.  When you take the disk out from between the caliper,
you have to "retract" the caliper piston into it's cylinder.  Then, there will be several disk
thicknesses worth of space between the pads.  You can usually do this with your fingers on a
well maintained caliper.  If it's stickey, you may be required to pry a bit between the pads.
Try not to chew them up too much.  Use something like a tire iron, go easy.  You should also
check at this time that your pads have enough life left, and that the caliper can "float" in
and out freely along an axis parallel to the axle.
No go out there, fix that thang and do a big wheelie!!!!
Wahoooo!
Chris


Juan Villarreal wrote:

> Ron,
>
> Here's a copy of a message I sent in to the
> list...  Can you help me out with this?  I've come
> to the conclusion that the brake pads are
> sandwiched around the rear brake rotor for some
> reason.  How do I get some space back between
> them?  Will I need to drop the wheel again?  I
> remember Randy had the same problem when he helped
> me with my first flat tire, but I don't remember
> what he did to fix it.  I'm kind of annoyed with
> the list for not taking much of an interest in it.
> I'm starting to think the subjects are getting a
> little limited and repetitive (i.e., carbs,
> exhaust systems, luggage, repeat...).  I KNOW
> somebody has to have seen this before!  Please let
> me know...  Juan
>
> > Fellow listers...
> >
> > Here's the situation:
> >
> > - Bike is currently in neutral and elevated on
> > center stand.
> >
> > - Axle has been run through rear rim, chain
> > tensioners and axle nut are still loose.
> >
> > - Chain shows plenty of slack (remember, the
> > bike
> > is elevated).
> >
> > My problem?  The wheel will not turn freely.  I
> > have determined the friction point to be
> > somewhere
> > in the rear brake mechanism.  What's up?  And
> > what's the fix?  Do I need to drop the wheel
> and
> > try it again?  Or do I need to do something
> with
> > the rear brake?  I'm wondering if I might have
> > to do something with the two allen bolts that >
> secure it to the bike, as in loosening and
> > re-tightening...  Please help me, because I'm
> > planning on taking another crack at it >
> tomorrow...
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
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>
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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Wheelies and stuff.
Date: 29 Mar 1999 21:58:15 -0800

>-Your rear brake will put the front wheel back down RIGHT NOW.  Try not to
use
>it.  Use throttle control instead.  Have fun, -Tim
>


Even more importantly, NEVER THINK ABOUT TOUCHING THE FRONT BRAKE!!  Using
it while wheeling will violently slam your front end down.  Once off road I
crashed really hard from this.  How can this be you ask, since the front
tire is off the ground?  Well, the rotational inertia from the front wheel
spinning gets transferred to the bike when you apply the brake.  Its like
the same force that results in the forks compressing during hard braking,
only the ground isn't there.

I've been told, and have seen trials riders do it, that you can modulate the
rear brake and the throttle to assist your balance while wheeling.

I rode a pretty good wheelie while coming back from the grocery store
tonight.  Got the front end up off of a stop light and over the hump of the
intersection, and rode it through first, until I had to shift to second.  I
normally don't ride like that, but I just changed the oil and put in some
Marvel Mystery oil, like one poster suggested, to try and cure my oil
consumption problem.  I'm now in the process of flogging my mount, giving it
the spurs.  We'll see if I get a ticket in the next few weeks.  It'll be
worth it if the rings bed properly and I stop burning the oil.

Jeff


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From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Lo siento...
Date: 29 Mar 1999 22:10:52 -0800 (PST)

Chris-

FINALLY something I can work with!  You're the
best, man.  Thanks for the info...  Excuse the
frustration (all of you) but I am TOTALLY on my
own down here.  Language barrier, indifferent to
bad attitudes, no support from the base due to
impending closure (Jimmy Carter = visionary...
NAAAWT!), etc.  I'm also having to do all my work
in a poorly lit parking garage with no
circulation, so if I forget a tool or a part I
have to pack everything up for my run back to the
11th floor.  I'm hatin' life, and I'll never take
a 2 car garage for granted ever again, FER SURE
FER SURE!!!  Thanks again though for writing,

Juan

--- Christopher J Beasley
<[e-mail]> wrote:
> Chill out you hooligan!  :P  The list is always
> a little slow on mondays.
> Yeah, you have to drop the wheel again.  When
> you take the disk out from between the caliper,
> you have to "retract" the caliper piston into
> it's cylinder.  Then, there will be several
disk
> thicknesses worth of space between the pads.
> You can usually do this with your fingers on a
> well maintained caliper.  If it's stickey, you
> may be required to pry a bit between the pads.
> Try not to chew them up too much.  Use
something
> like a tire iron, go easy.  You should also
> check at this time that your pads have enough
> life left, and that the caliper can "float" in
> and out freely along an axis parallel to the
> axle.
> No go out there, fix that thang and do a big
> wheelie!!!!
> Wahoooo!
> Chris

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From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Lo siento...
Date: 29 Mar 1999 22:19:39 -0800

Allright, well, hang in there buddy, and make sure you pump that brake lever a buncha times
after the wheel is in place.  This makes the brakes work the first time you try them out on
the test ride, instead of the second, third or, whoops!
Cheers!

Chris

Juan Villarreal wrote:

> Chris-
>
> FINALLY something I can work with!  You're the
> best, man.  Thanks for the info...  Excuse the
> frustration (all of you) but I am TOTALLY on my
> own down here.  Language barrier, indifferent to
> bad attitudes, no support from the base due to
> impending closure (Jimmy Carter = visionary...
> NAAAWT!), etc.  I'm also having to do all my work
> in a poorly lit parking garage with no
> circulation, so if I forget a tool or a part I
> have to pack everything up for my run back to the
> 11th floor.  I'm hatin' life, and I'll never take
> a 2 car garage for granted ever again, FER SURE
> FER SURE!!!  Thanks again though for writing,
>
> Juan
>
> --- Christopher J Beasley
> <[e-mail]> wrote:
> > Chill out you hooligan!  :P  The list is always
> > a little slow on mondays.
> > Yeah, you have to drop the wheel again.  When
> > you take the disk out from between the caliper,
> > you have to "retract" the caliper piston into
> > it's cylinder.  Then, there will be several
> disk
> > thicknesses worth of space between the pads.
> > You can usually do this with your fingers on a
> > well maintained caliper.  If it's stickey, you
> > may be required to pry a bit between the pads.
> > Try not to chew them up too much.  Use
> something
> > like a tire iron, go easy.  You should also
> > check at this time that your pads have enough
> > life left, and that the caliper can "float" in
> > and out freely along an axis parallel to the
> > axle.
> > No go out there, fix that thang and do a big
> > wheelie!!!!
> > Wahoooo!
> > Chris
>
> _________________________________________________________
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From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Wheelies and stuff.
Date: 30 Mar 1999 01:14:49 -0500

>I am by no means an expert at this.  However, here is how I do it.
>In first gear get the bike rolling and then slow down until just before you
need
>to pull in the clutch.  At that moment roll on the throttle hard.  BE
CAREFUL!
>Doing this on my bike will cause the bike to throw you off if you are not
paying
>attention. If you are still having trouble getting the front end up, sit
further
>back on the seat to get weight off the front end.  I very very highly
recommend
>that you perfect this on the dirt before you even think about it on the
street.
>-Your rear brake will put the front wheel back down RIGHT NOW.  Try not to
use
>it.  Use throttle control instead.  Have fun, -Tim
>
>> In a message dated 3/29/99 12:55:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>> [e-mail] writes:
>>
>> << So, Bill, while we're waiting for the movie, how about describing
>>  your technique for those of us who are wheelie impaired?


FWIW I aint gonna jinks myself by saying I'm a wheelie expert either, but I
guess I gotta say its a big part of the fun I have riding and racing.
Anyway, I like to use throttle only.  Roll on up in the rev range just where
the power starts to get juicy (depends on the bike) then just a little quick
flick with the gas and then open it wide quick all in one motion (my race
bike needs little more than half throttle) and she'll start comin up.  Cant
be afraid to keep it gassed until it comes right up (and its smoother &
easier if your butt is back on the seat a bit).  Blip it when you've reached
the balance point.  You can ride it as far as you want in any gear by workin
the throttle around the balance point, but it can be a little herky jerky if
you're in first on a bike geared short.  Rolling off in the lower gears
brings it down.  Goin past the balance point is not a problem as long as
you've got compression or rear brake to bring it back down.  IMO two things
are part of the process of becoming decent at wheelies: 1: You stop worrying
about the idea that you are/could be abusing your bike.  2. The thought of
getting hurt is less important to you than the goal of perfecting long high
wheelies.  You really cant be timid about it, and you gotta practice.  Dirt
is where to start, but it's actually easier on the street.   BTW, when ya
first start, make sure there's a clear sailin ahead of ya, cause dem dare
bikes keep a rollin for a bit once you've slid off the back   ;)
BG


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From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) T.V. program review of the KLR is done......
Date: 30 Mar 1999 01:24:48 -0500

>
>While we're on the topic of TV, watch the premiere of NOVA's "Volcanoes of
>the Deep" Tuesday on PBS at 8:00 PM. I appear in it for10 seconds at about
>the 20 minute mark. I'm the guy in the pink shirt carrying the tubeworms.
>I'm also mistakenly referred to as a student.
>
>Mark (still waiting for my other 14 minutes and 50 seconds)
>B2
>A2


That's next Tuesday?  Good.  Cause I hope you're not the guy I saw on the
Volcano show the other night who was the only survivor from a team of nine
who were taking measurements at the crater mouth just as the thing was ready
to erupt!  Schmaaat!!!


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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 29 Mar 1999 23:10:42 -0800


>Yeah, there are way too many people, cars etc. but what can you expect from
a
>state with the best combo of weather, surfing, skiing, off-roading, etc in
the
>country, AND tons of high-paid jobs...  I'd love to keep everyone out, but
>there's that 'free country' crap gettin' in my way from putting up big
fences
>(particularly on the north border to keep you moss-heads out :)
>


That's a pretty bold statement, amigo!

Surfing:  Well, I've surfed Westport here.  Long ridable waves with 6'
peaks.  There's this one section where the waves brake both ways.  Only
thing is you have to go with a drysuit, gloves, booties and hood.  OK, the
water's freezing!  So yeah, I liked surfing CA.  But I was worried about all
of the toxic sludge in the water down there.  Truth be told, the best
surfing I've done was in Mexico, but I haven't surfed Hawaii, yet.
Windsurfing though, Washington and Oregon has California beat, hands down,
with the Columbia Gorge.  I haven't really windsurfed outside of Washington,
but I'm going to windsurf in the Caribbean in June of 2000.

Skiing:  Skied Tahoe, three times.  Yeah yeah, great snow, great terrain,
Excellent extreme stuff, KT22, Granite Chief, been there, done that, but the
place suffers from the same disease the rest of the state has:  TRAFFIC!
First time I've ever seen traffic signs on a ski slope was at Squaw Valley.
I'll put up any of California's slopes against Crystal Mountain, Mt. Baker,
Stevens Pass, Mission Ridge, White Pass, or even Ski Bluewood.  I learned to
ski at the same age I learned to walk, and I've skied every state in the
west.  I even skied Mt. St. Helens as a small boy, before it blew its top.
The only places outside WA I like to ski are Mt. Hood or Mt Bachelor in
Oregon, Schweitzer in ID, and Whistler in B.C.  I haven't included the other
great spots like Targee, Jackson Hole, Taos, or anywhere in Utah, because
there are too far to drive to for a day trip.  (Well, Mt. Bachelor, OR is
pushing it, but its still within six hours away.)   As for water skiing,
forget about it!  I can show you so many places to ski it would make your
head explode!  I currently live three blocks from the boat launch for the
best stretch of water ski water in the U.S.;  The Columbia River on the
Hanford Reach.  Perfect glass every morning and ever night, no matter how
many boats are out during the day, and even with a lot of boats, like when
the boat races comes to town, the river is still highly skiable, with 110
degree air temps in the summer.

As for weather:  Yeah great, as long as you're not stuck in the smog!  I
couldn't tell the difference between the ground and the sky at the horizon,
it was all brown.  Here in WA, take your pick.  You can live in a temperate
zone, like Seattle, never too hot or too cold.  You can live in a rain
forrest, like on the Olympic Peninsula, rain 360 days per year, or you can
live in the semi-arid dessert, like I do.  Hot summers, and cold winters.
Besides, having rainy days just makes you appreciate the sunny days more.

Offroading:  Isn't that illegal in many parts of your state now thanks to
the Sierra Club?  I can take you for rides here through the desert for over
fifty miles where you'd see no signs of civilization, no fences, no roads.
Except for a lot of state and federal lands, this state is pretty much wide
open for offroading still.  Plus, many of the on road rides I could take you
on over fire roads, you'd swear it was single track.  My town has grown
considerably since I've last lived here.  It used to be I could hit the open
desert at the end of the block.  Now I'd have to ride about a mile.  But its
still there...

High Paying jobs:  Yeah, you could be right there, but I think that's all
relevant to the extremely high cost of buying a house and cost of living
down there.  Right now you are paying at least 30 cents more per gallon of
gas.  Plus, I wonder how much its worth it to live in such crowding, to
subject my body to toxic air and water, and high crime.

Hey, everybody loves where they're from, and loyalty is commendable.  I've
been all over the states, lived in ID, GA, NC, TN and WY, been to numerous
foreign lands, and yet I keep coming back to Washington.  The only place I
can think of might be better, because I just read an article about it, is
Moab......Say Fred, how's the windsurfing around there?

Jeff



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From: "Stevens, Greig (CALBBAY)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR650 - Wheelies and stuff.
Date: 30 Mar 1999 07:09:53 -0000

There have be a few messages on how to do wheelies.  Someone touched on it
earlier but there is a practical use for becoming confident in your, and the
bike's, capability (besides having fun - if you don't mind banging your bike
about a bit!).

A couple of people have mentioned a riders course so this may have been
covered there.  When I got my licence - 12 years ago - it was mandatory to
first pass a riders course.  This course was conducted over four consecutive
Saturdays which lasted all day! Anyway, although we were shown how to avoid
objects on the road, we weren't shown how to ride over them if the situation
arose.  In the event that there is an obstacle on the road that you can't
navigate around, most riders instincts would be to slam on the brakes to try
and stop before hitting it.  Sometimes you may come across on object and not
have enough room to stop.  If under heavy braking, more than likely you are
going to hit it with the front forks either fully compressed, or close to
it.  This is not good as something will have to give, the bike or the rider.
If it looks as though hitting it is going to be unavoidable, wash off as
much speed under brakes as possible, then, depending on the size of the
object and the riders experience, let up on the brakes so that the forks
have as much compression as you can give them before hitting the object, or
for the more experienced, lift the front wheel and hit the object with the
rear.

It's simple in theory (some may say it's bleeding obvious but I had to learn
the hard way until a riding buddy with plenty of dirt experience told me)
but it does take practice not only to know how to raise the bike but to know
how to react when those types of situations present themselves.

Greig,
RIDE AND BE SEEN!


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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Civil wars cont.
Date: 29 Mar 1999 23:22:33 -0800

>I couldn't resist!  No excuses for this joke - AH - it's a joke!
>
>I have even vacationed in California and worked in West Texas.
>--
>Jeff, NM-KLR650-A13 ---
>
Loved it!  Feel free to send me more anytime!

Jeff


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From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Lo siento...
Date: 29 Mar 1999 22:19:39 -0800

Allright, well, hang in there buddy, and make sure you pump that brake lever a buncha times
after the wheel is in place.  This makes the brakes work the first time you try them out on
the test ride, instead of the second, third or, whoops!
Cheers!

Chris

Juan Villarreal wrote:

> Chris-
>
> FINALLY something I can work with!  You're the
> best, man.  Thanks for the info...  Excuse the
> frustration (all of you) but I am TOTALLY on my
> own down here.  Language barrier, indifferent to
> bad attitudes, no support from the base due to
> impending closure (Jimmy Carter = visionary...
> NAAAWT!), etc.  I'm also having to do all my work
> in a poorly lit parking garage with no
> circulation, so if I forget a tool or a part I
> have to pack everything up for my run back to the
> 11th floor.  I'm hatin' life, and I'll never take
> a 2 car garage for granted ever again, FER SURE
> FER SURE!!!  Thanks again though for writing,
>
> Juan
>
> --- Christopher J Beasley
> <[e-mail]> wrote:
> > Chill out you hooligan!  :P  The list is always
> > a little slow on mondays.
> > Yeah, you have to drop the wheel again.  When
> > you take the disk out from between the caliper,
> > you have to "retract" the caliper piston into
> > it's cylinder.  Then, there will be several
> disk
> > thicknesses worth of space between the pads.
> > You can usually do this with your fingers on a
> > well maintained caliper.  If it's stickey, you
> > may be required to pry a bit between the pads.
> > Try not to chew them up too much.  Use
> something
> > like a tire iron, go easy.  You should also
> > check at this time that your pads have enough
> > life left, and that the caliper can "float" in
> > and out freely along an axis parallel to the
> > axle.
> > No go out there, fix that thang and do a big
> > wheelie!!!!
> > Wahoooo!
> > Chris
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  CALIFORNIA CAMOFLAGE
Date: 30 Mar 1999 00:15:44 -0800



>JEFF
>I'm very surprised our URBAN CAMOUFLAGE fooled a cunning Ranger like
>yourself.  You see we devious Californians learned well from the loggers up
>north, that if you leave a couple hundred yards of trees next to the road
>people can't see that the whole damn state has been clear cut.

Yep, Weyerhouser is an evil corporation and must be destroyed, so everybody,
stop using paper and only use email from now on, OK?  The latest crap they
pulled was to convince some fool political environmentalists that a
"Mountains to Sound Greenway" was a good idea.  This is the stretch of I-90
that runs from Snoqualimie Pass over the Cascades to the Puget Sound, and to
have trees and forrest land along it would be o-so purty and good for the
tourists.  So to get these lands under state control they swapped
Weyerhouser pristine state forrest land for them to destroy.  Personally,
I'd love it if everyone say the clearcuts so they'd think about it.

Maybe I should put my skills and training to good use and become an
environmental terrorist, go out spiking trees and such.....only half
kidding.

Jeff


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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 30 Mar 1999 00:51:56 -0800


>3) better stakes...the ground was packed gravel/rock and the stakes simply
didn't
>work...suggestions?
>....
>Other thoughts. Tents...the GS list just raged on tents and people were
claiming that
>TNF tents leaked, I can't believe that if they were seam sealed...they were
lobbying
>for the Aerostitch poster boy Biblers...one skin..no fly..but nothing
cheaper than
>$650...I disagree...I use a Eureka Summit with a fly and an optional
>vestibule..finally can get quality tents for under $300 and now we have to
pay
>$700...give me a break (sorry for the rant)...
>
>Sleeping bag: I used TNF Cat's Meow ...works great...treated myself to the
extrawide
>extralong thin thermarest (had to endure Jake's ridcule "all you need is
hip length).
>
>Kurt
>
After several years in the field, I've learned that for great comfort and
totally like pack, you can't go wrong with two ponchos, a sleeping pad or
air mat, and two poncho liners.  With these you use the military tent stakes
for the shelter half.  These aluminum lightweight babies are bullet proof
and will stick in almost any ground, including sand.  Also, a couple of
bungie cords, some parachute cord, and a folding entrenching tool.  The
e-tool digs great for making cat holes, and for putting the fire out, and
also makes the best tool for pounding the aforementioned tent stakes.

Here's how it works:  To make a hooch you tie a corner of the poncho to a
tree with the parachute cord at about waist level.  With a loop of cord on
the opposite diagonal corner, you pull this corner out tight from the tree
and stake it in the ground.  You can then stake the other corners in the
ground out tight.  You then pull the drawstring at the hood tight and wrap
it several times around the hood to close it off.  Take a bungie cord to the
draw string, and find a tree branch to pull the hood (center of the poncho)
out and away, to give you some room under there.  I then laid out my
sleeping pad under there, tied my poncho liners together on top of each
other, used my gear as a pillow, crawled under there with my feet at the
farthest corner, wrapped up in the poncho liners (my woobie) and had a great
nights sleep (about three hours while on a mission, if I was lucky).  The
second poncho can be used to:  a) expand the size of your hooch by snapping
it to the first poncho, b) used with the poncho liners for even more warmth,
or c) make an additional hooch to keep the rest of your equipment dry.

I've lived in the field for years with this set up.  It's fairly good
shelter for retaining heat, and you can bring your stove in the hooch with
you for even more heat.  If properly made with consideration to the winds,
it will definitely keep you dry in the hardest of rainstorms.  You can vary
the design numerous ways; raise one or more corners off the grounds with
bungies to other trees, use your e-tool or tent poles to raise a corner and
stake it to the ground with a length of cord.  The possibilities are
endless.

The best thing about this shelter is that it can be put up under three
minutes with practice.  Shoot, you could tie the high corner off to your
bike.  The components are very inexpensive at your local surplus store, or a
military clothing and sales outlet, or US Cavalry.  While you're there, try
to locate an Army extreme cold weather sleeping bag, for arctic conditions.
The bag is the best I've ever used.  It has a Gortex shell that is removable
(I've used just the shell with a poncho liner before!), a great insulated
bag, and comes with a polypro fleece hood and booties to wear inside the
bag.  The bag also has a great compression bag to stuff into, that can
seriously reduce the bulk of this bag.  Can't remember how much they cost,
but I almost decided not to hand mine back in, no matter the cost.

Anyway, this setup is from my experience, one of the best ways to go,
especially considering how little space it would take in the saddle bag.
Sleeping in it could get a little cramped and claustrophobic, especially in
a hard rain, but I'm 6'2", and I did just fine.  I have a dome tent that
packs up pretty well, but its size is too long to put in a saddle bag, and
who wants to spend all their time in a tent anyway?  I say make shelter,
sleep, get up, tear shelter down, go ride!

Jeff


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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First-time questions
Date: 30 Mar 1999 01:19:38 -0800

>you have to be the whole enchilada...the diameter of the stocks are
different..they
>work because they include a rubber damper....they also get the mirrors out
behind your
>shoulders so you get a better field of view...
>
Oh Fred?  How much for the XR650L mirrors?  I'm trying to see how much I can
embezzle from my budget to spend on my bike this spring.  My boat will need
some attention soon though....

Thanks
Jeff


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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) First-time questions
Date: 30 Mar 1999 01:31:16 -0800

>It's like deja vu all over again...  Yes Jeff, the
>Honda XR mirrors screw right into the Kawasaki
>mounts with no problems.  Later...
>
Sorry, I'm catching up on all the posts from the week I was gone (over 500
messages!), and I didn't see the other posts before I asked.  Are the Honda
mirrors rectangular?

Jeff


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From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: ARAI DUAL SPORT HELMET
Date: 30 Mar 1999 01:39:54 -0800


>The Bieffe 3 sport compared to the Arai is like comparing  a Ferrari to a
VW
>bug.  The 3 sport is plastic and is OK if you have a plastic kind of head.
>You should check out the Shoei Syncrotec or the Nolan N100 if you like that
>sort of helmet.
>
Hey, I've built a couple of VW's that could beat a Ferrari in the quarter
mile.  But then were talking fit and finish here too aren't we.  I love my
Arai Dual Sport.  I've probably waxed it more often than my car in the last
year.  I dread the day it gives up the ghost and I can't find a replacement.
Maybe everyone should email Arai and ask about them.  Even if you don't
intend to ever buy this helmet, its still nice to have choices.

Jeff


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From: Mike Ratta <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR Arai Dual Sport
Date: 30 Mar 1999 08:12:22 -0500

I got mine at motorcycle accessory warehouse.. www.accwhse.com
Great helmet.

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From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Honda mirrors
Date: 30 Mar 1999 05:21:55 -0800 (PST)

"Are the Honda mirrors rectangular?
 Jeff"

Jeff,
The mirrors are round, and they maintain their
adjustments really well.  Juan

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


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From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 06:38:31 -0700


<snip,snip,snip>and yet I keep coming back to Washington.  The only place I
>can think of might be better, because I just read an article about it, is
>Moab......Say Fred, how's the windsurfing around there?
>
>Jeff



Moab really sux!  Everyone should stay away and leave it all to me.  ;<)

Fred


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From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Street Metzler tire pressure
Date: 30 Mar 1999 23:40:44 +1000

Guy Cheney wrote:

> I'm running street Metzlers on the KLR, a ME33 up front and a ME55A on the
> rear.  (I'm pretty sure somebody else is running this combo, but I can't
> remember who.)  I'm running 24 psi front and rear.

There's a few of us running this combo, and I think we'll agree that
your pressures are a bit low.
You'll get better life out of the tyres with higher pressure.
For my 600:
For general town use, about 30psi on the front and about 32 psi on
the rear.
On the highway, go up 2 or 3psi front and back, maybe a bit more
when loaded up for tour.
On the racetrack, about 28psi front and 30psi back works ok. You
could use my racetrack pressures on the street in cold weather
(cold by my temperate aussie standards, BTW).

On your bike, you could start at 28psi front and back and work your
way up.

Mister_T


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From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) tire pressure
Date: 30 Mar 1999 23:47:38 +1000

Steamroller wrote:

[...]
> I run about 8-12 pounds depending on how muddy it is.
> The front is the OEM Dunlop K750(?), I forget the street pressure, but the
> off-road pressure is usually the same.
> Aside from my front being just about gone, the traction I get at these
> pressures is phenomenal. The diff, is night and day, and to be honest
> sometimes the pressure is maybe 6-8 lbs.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong (I haven't done offroad for years)
but at these pressures could tyre slippage on the rear rim be a
real risk, bearing in mind that the KLR doesn't use rim locks or
rim pins.

Mister_T


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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Arai DS....NKLR
Date: 30 Mar 1999 06:57:14 -0700

This is what Arai wrote me when I contacted them last year. I found mine at MAW...


           >Dear Mr. Simpson:
           >
           >The DS/r has been discontinued for 1998.  However, due to increased demand
           >(now that it has been discontinued) and it's versatility in other markets,
           >it may be re-introduced in 1999 or possibly 2000.
           >
           >However, I know that there is still some inventory left in Distributor/Dealer
           >system, so you should be able to locate one now.
           >
           >Best regards,
           >
           >Brian @ Arai Tech Services, The Americas




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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 06:58:48 -0700

|Moab really sux!  Everyone should stay away and leave it all to me.  ;<)
|
|Fred


hot...hot...hot..nothing but rocks and sand...stay away from this place...I agree Fred...

Kurt
Salt Lake City


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From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 07:06:15 -0700


-----Original Message-----
John B. Hillstrom <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>


>|Moab really sux!  Everyone should stay away and leave it all to me.  ;<)
>|
>|Fred
>
>
>hot...hot...hot..nothing but rocks and sand...stay away from this place...I
agree Fred...
>
>Kurt
>Salt Lake City
>
>

Ya!  and we got those creepy crawly things that suck your brain when you
sleep.  At least the brains of the mountain bikers.

Fred


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR- Flint Hills, Kansas
Date: 30 Mar 1999 06:06:07 -0800 (PST)

Robert,

Sorry for the delay in my reply...  But your
e-mail did bring back a lot of pleasant memories.
I too spent several long Saturdays among the Flint
Hills with a couple friends.  We'd often be on the
road by 7:30, stopping for lunch at one of those
one-horse towns for a killer half-pound
cheeseburger, then getting back home to the wife
(covered in dust) just as the sun was going down.
Boy what fun that was!  I too came to realize that
Kansas is not the flat, boring state I always
thought it was.  Since I left Missouri nine years
ago I've noticed that a lot of people in other
parts of the country have a tendency to feel that
way about the Midwest as a whole.  Let them...  I
mean, do we really want to be overrun by a bunch
of trendy people driving SUVs, wearing
Birkenstocks, and talking on cel phones?  With the
folks back home, what you see is what you get.
Definitely a breed apart...  I better stop now, as
I'm starting to make myself homesick...

Take care, Juan Villarreal


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) wheelie envy
Date: 31 Mar 1999 00:29:46 +1000

Alex Jomarron wrote:

> I wish I could wheelie.......

The wheelie (or "mono") challenged among us, myself included, may
be able to learn something from a couple of videos by the British
magazine "Fast Bikes", titled "How to Pull Wheelies & Influence
People", parts 1 and 2.
"Fast Bikes" is a sports bike mag that has published a few videos
now which are full of good old-fashioned sports bike anarchy.

Unfortunate for US-based listers, the vids only come out on PAL
(Euro) video format, not the other "Never-The-Same-Color" variety.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 09:37:21 -0500

Being the typical New Yorker, unbelieving till I see for myself, I think
I'll have to organize a "fact-finding mission" to Moab, Utah and the
surrounding environment to ascertain for myself just how inhospitible this
area really is.
Maybe organize a few Eastcoasters for 12 days of exploration/camping.
Let see now....according to my State Farm Ins. provided Rand McNally Atlas,
the junctions of 191/128 is approximately 2216 miles from my driveway. 3
days hardride, allows 5 days of "research" and 4 days to get back home (1
day extra, just in case) to write "my findings".
It may be a bit of "hardwork" but I think the benefits to my "constituancy"
far outweighs any "stress or inconvinience" to me.

....I'll need fresh tires, spare sprockets and chain, chain lube, tire kit,
1st aid kit, 3 days clothes, sleeping bag, dome tent, ground cloth, tool
kit, spare parts kit, electric vest (to ride at night), CD player and CD's,
emergency combo flashlight and radio, camera and film, do a fresh valve
check, fresh oil, take the KOA card, etc, etc, etc......

So...any of you other Eastcoasters interested, say mid-September?

I'll have to start working up to 800 miles days on the KLAW as I usually
take long trips on either the Goldwing (Florida every year, 2-up with a
trailer, 24 hours to Orlando) or the Concours.
But I think it can be done. Any adventurers out there?
All the best, NY Pete
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; John B. Hillstrom <[e-mail]>;
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
>To: Fred Hink <[e-mail]>; Jeff & Lisa Walker <[e-mail]>;
>John B. Hillstrom <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
><[e-mail]>
>Date: Tuesday, March 30, 1999 12:05 AM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR California trip
>
>
>>|Moab really sux!  Everyone should stay away and leave it all to me.  ;<)
>>|
>>|Fred
>>
>>
>>hot...hot...hot..nothing but rocks and sand...stay away from this
place...I
>agree Fred...
>>
>>Kurt
>>Salt Lake City
>>
>>
>
>Ya!  and we got those creepy crawly things that suck your brain when you
>sleep.  At least the brains of the mountain bikers.
>
>Fred
>
>
>All messages to klr650 must be 'plain text' only...no attachments...Want to
unsubscribe?
>Send mail to [e-mail] leave subject blank, message body
consisting of:
>UNSUBSCRIBE klr650 (or UNSUBSCRIBE klr650-digest)
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 08:33:54 -0700



>Being the typical New Yorker, unbelieving till I see for myself, I think
>I'll have to organize a "fact-finding mission" to Moab, Utah and the
>surrounding environment to ascertain for myself just how inhospitible this
>area really is.


this would be a huge mistake...I think you should just focus your efforts on Central Park and
the Museum Mile...but if you must come you should make it for the rally in early June...that
way we locals will have to do all the riding and "fact-finding" alone for the rest of the
year....(g)

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) [NKLR]Accesorize
Date: 30 Mar 1999 11:33:33 -0500

Found a couple of interesting products in print catalogs over the last
couple of days: (sorry, I couldn't find links to them)

Moose makes a set of tank bags (look like tank paniers) avail in black
and camouflage. They sell for btwn $45-50 (US). Less expensive
alternative to the Aerostich, for say, daily commuting, extreme off road
abuse, while preserving the others for big trip duty...?

UFO sells a twin headlight fairing for "universal application" on
DS/offroad bikes. Looks like a conventional enduro headlight/numberplate
assembly but has the cool dual eye light setup, much like the KTM
Adventure. Found it for about $50. Doesn't appear to fit the KLR but
would look real good on, say, a 1999 Dr350SE....unless it were left
STOCK (blasphemy).

Some listers were discussing ways to avoid attempting to take off with
your disk/wheel lock still on. Dennis Kirk has a "Remove Before Take
Off" streamer made from dayglo material. Approx 18" long with grommet
for lock. $4.

Maybe beloved Fred has access to these parts...

Jake



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Wheelies and Stuff
Date: 30 Mar 1999 11:28:08 -0500

    =20
     All,
    =20
     I'm new to the list and I just saw the posts on riding wheelies=2E  I'=
m=20
     no expert, but I have my style down to where I can ride second all the=
=20
     way out=2E  My question to the wheelie riders:  What is the trick to=20
     getting more distance out of whatever gear I'm walking (riding a=20
     wheelie) in?  The first time I got one up off of the clutch I had to=20
     lay on the ground and watch my bike go rolling into a parked car=2E(da=
mn=20
     that hurt)  How high can you get the wheel up and still feel=20
     comfortable? =20
    =20
     Darnell
    =20




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) (NKLRDR) Knee braces
Date: 30 Mar 1999 09:53:22 -0700

Anyone have any good advice on a knee braces that provide lateral support
and knee cap protection?

Gino




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Still wondering...
Date: 30 Mar 1999 11:43:14 EST

In a message dated 3/29/99 11:40:16 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< My problem?  The wheel will not turn freely.  I
 > have determined the friction point to be >>
Juan, there may be nothing wrong with your brake. there will be some
resistance on the rotor. the rotor run-out will help separate the pads a
little and the caliper seal will cause the caliper piston to retreat away from
the pad when you hit the brake pedal. Its also possible that your wheel is not
aligned perfectly in the swingarm and when you check your chain adjustment and
tighten down your axle, you will be in proper alignment. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR- Flint Hills, Kansas
Date: 30 Mar 1999 11:46:40 EST


Snip///
your e-mail did bring back a lot of pleasant memories.
I too spent several long Saturdays among the Flint
Hills with a couple friends.
(
Boy what fun that was!  I too came to realize that
Kansas is not the flat, boring state I always
thought it was.
Take care, Juan Villarreal





Ok, so where you wanna start, Strong City?  Past the feed lots?  Mosey on down
through Cottonwood Falls, the old courthouse and brick streets?  (There's
reputed to be a 4-calendar cafe there).  Slip out of that town the back way
and slide through Matfield Green, right after the elegant colonial house on
the north end of town, the only house in town worth more than $12,000, and
past the semi-general store on with the same mentally-retarded young man
sitting on the same porch for over 20 years; the one who waved at you every
time you looked at him?  Then maybe the open two-laner with no traffic except
for a pokey farmer who would never dream of causing you a problem?  And lots
of cows, verdant views, and old windy, up-and-downers?  Maybe wishing El
Dorado didn't come up so soon?

Nah, I never think about those things, but my dreams, my dreams, oh to be in
Kansas...on that road.

You might enjoy "Prairie Eden" by William Least Heat Moon.

John Paul Gray
Dana Point Ca

94 ST1100
95 KLR650



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR- Flint Hills, Kansas
Date: 30 Mar 1999 11:11:50 -0700


-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>



>Nah, I never think about those things, but my dreams, my dreams, oh to be
in
>Kansas...on that road.
>
>You might enjoy "Prairie Eden" by William Least Heat Moon.
>
>John Paul Gray
>Dana Point Ca
>
>94 ST1100
>95 KLR650
>
>

Did you mean "Prairy Erth"?  Check out....
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/bookstore.html

I lived all of my life in Kansas till I turned 40.  I miss the grass lands
and the farm fields.  If it weren't for Moab I would be there still.

Fred      (I really got the hell out of Dodge)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 30 Mar 1999 10:16:48 -0800



>



> Here's how it works:  To make a hooch you tie a corner of the poncho to a
> tree with the parachute cord at about waist level.  With a loop of cord on
> the opposite diagonal corner, you pull this corner out tight from the tree

Wait!
You need a TREE!!!!!
Where do you stash THAT??????       8-P
Beez





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Lo siento...
Date: 30 Mar 1999 10:29:26 -0800

Hmmm, I KNOW I didn't send this twice...
Wassup wi dat?
b


Christopher J Beasley wrote:

> Allright, well, hang in there buddy, and make sure you pump that brake lever a buncha times
> after the wheel is in place.  This makes the brakes work the first time you try them out on
> the test ride, instead of the second, third or, whoops!
> Cheers!
>
> Chris
>
> Juan Villarreal wrote:
>
> > Chris-
> >
> > FINALLY something I can work with!  You're the
> > best, man.  Thanks for the info...  Excuse the
> > frustration (all of you) but I am TOTALLY on my
> > own down here.  Language barrier, indifferent to
> > bad attitudes, no support from the base due to
> > impending closure (Jimmy Carter = visionary...
> > NAAAWT!), etc.  I'm also having to do all my work
> > in a poorly lit parking garage with no
> > circulation, so if I forget a tool or a part I
> > have to pack everything up for my run back to the
> > 11th floor.  I'm hatin' life, and I'll never take
> > a 2 car garage for granted ever again, FER SURE
> > FER SURE!!!  Thanks again though for writing,
> >
> > Juan
> >
> > --- Christopher J Beasley
> > <[e-mail]> wrote:
> > > Chill out you hooligan!  :P  The list is always
> > > a little slow on mondays.
> > > Yeah, you have to drop the wheel again.  When
> > > you take the disk out from between the caliper,
> > > you have to "retract" the caliper piston into
> > > it's cylinder.  Then, there will be several
> > disk
> > > thicknesses worth of space between the pads.
> > > You can usually do this with your fingers on a
> > > well maintained caliper.  If it's stickey, you
> > > may be required to pry a bit between the pads.
> > > Try not to chew them up too much.  Use
> > something
> > > like a tire iron, go easy.  You should also
> > > check at this time that your pads have enough
> > > life left, and that the caliper can "float" in
> > > and out freely along an axis parallel to the
> > > axle.
> > > No go out there, fix that thang and do a big
> > > wheelie!!!!
> > > Wahoooo!
> > > Chris
> >
> > _________________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> > All messages to klr650 must be 'plain text' only...no attachments...Want to unsubscribe?
> > Send mail to [e-mail] leave subject blank, message body consisting of:
> > UNSUBSCRIBE klr650 (or UNSUBSCRIBE klr650-digest)
>
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> Send mail to [e-mail] leave subject blank, message body consisting of:
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Stuart Heaslet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 14:28:33 -0500

At 08:33 AM 3/30/99 -0700, Kurt Simpson wrote:
>>Being the typical New Yorker, unbelieving till I see for myself, I think
>>I'll have to organize a "fact-finding mission" to Moab, Utah and the
>>surrounding environment to ascertain for myself just how inhospitible this
>>area really is.

>this would be a huge mistake...I think you should just focus your efforts
on Central Park and
>the Museum Mile...

I'm selling my house in Florida.  Lots of New Yorkers here.  Figure I'd go
to Moab and build me a condominium complex on the White Rim...maybe
bulldoze out a wide enough section for a Lincoln Navigator so I could blend
in...

Stuart
A12





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 12:38:30 -0700

    Naw, Jackie Chen's "Rumble in the Bronx" demonstrated that the Bronx
(below Fordham Rd, of course) is a dirt biker's paradise. You can ride over
cars and everything!!  Bogdan, Who did some time in Greenpoint, Brooklyn
another moto-heaven.

    this would be a huge mistake...I think you should just focus your
efforts on Central Park and
    the Museum Mile



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 15:36:34 -0500

Glad to see you are taking the SoFla attitude/SOP with you. Would hate
to see it die. BTW, would a Navigator pass emission control testing
better than my tree hugging neighbor's '76 VW Rabbit diesel with
Greenpeace  and "Arms are for hugging" stickers on it?
Fred, Stuart has some plans for you guys, I just feel it!

Stuart Heaslet wrote:
> I'm selling my house in Florida.  Lots of New Yorkers here.  Figure I'd go
> to Moab and build me a condominium complex on the White Rim...maybe
> bulldoze out a wide enough section for a Lincoln Navigator so I could blend
> in...
>
> Stuart
> A12



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Steamroller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 15:59:24 -0500

Central Park? Museum Mile? New York is a whole lot more than just NYC. While
I lived there for umpteen years, I did finally move out, only because of my
sons need for an education that did not require "Bullet Dodging 101", heh
heh heh. I live, as the Beatles put it, "in the foothills of the headlands",
right at the foot of the Shawangunk Mtns to be precise. But, I must say
this, if you haven't lived in NYC, you haven't lived.
And why NY has such a bad rap is beyond me, I traveled extensively and spent
time in many places, and you know what I find? It's all pretty much the
same. If it's not one thing, it's another. As the saying goes,"...people are
the same all over..."
NY Pete.
P.S......some of the best dual'sporting around exist in NYC, as another
poster stated, it's just all the "trails" are paved, that's all,
HEEHAA.....later
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>
>
>>Being the typical New Yorker, unbelieving till I see for myself, I think
>>I'll have to organize a "fact-finding mission" to Moab, Utah and the
>>surrounding environment to ascertain for myself just how inhospitible this
>>area really is.
>
>
>this would be a huge mistake...I think you should just focus your efforts
on Central Park and
>the Museum Mile...but if you must come you should make it for the rally in
early June...that
>way we locals will have to do all the riding and "fact-finding" alone for
the rest of the
>year....(g)
>
>Kurt
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 30 Mar 1999 13:12:11 -0800

>> Here's how it works:  To make a hooch you tie a corner of the poncho to a
>> tree with the parachute cord at about waist level.  With a loop of cord
on
>> the opposite diagonal corner, you pull this corner out tight from the
tree
>
>Wait!
>You need a TREE!!!!!
>Where do you stash THAT??????       8-P
>Beez
>
Well, out here in the semi arid desert, we have this wonderful variety of
Artemisia Tridentata, or "big sagebrush"  Perfect for making a hooch, since
its at the right height, its tough, and will provide a bit of a shelter and
privacy on the open side of the hooch.  Up to the north, and in the western
side of the state to find a tree you just spit, and you'll hit one, unless
the evildoers from Weyerhaeuser got there first.

But in a pinch, you can tie off to your bike too.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Camping thoughts...NKLR
Date: 30 Mar 1999 13:18:24 -0800



JWell, out here in the semi arid desert, we have this wonderful variety of

> Artemisia Tridentata, or "big sagebrush"  Perfect for making a hooch, since
> its at the right height, its tough, and will provide a bit of a shelter and
> privacy on the open side of the hooch.  Up to the north, and in the western
> side of the state to find a tree you just spit, and you'll hit one, unless
> the evildoers from Weyerhaeuser got there first.
>
> But in a pinch, you can tie off to your bike too.
>
> Jeff

  Ooh, down here in earthquake land, we don't tie off to our bike ;-)
beez





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 14:21:53 -0700

> I'm selling my house in Florida.  Lots of New Yorkers here.  Figure I'd go
> to Moab and build me a condominium complex on the White Rim...

Hey, I'm going to be unemployeed soon, I was a darn good framer several
years ago. I could help build it...  They will come.

Gino, looking for a job, Pokluda



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) KLR Tech
Date: 30 Mar 1999 13:35:37 -0800

Well, it seems not much is going on technically with everybody else's KLRs.  I
guess that's good, except that mine was beat up when I got it, and then I beat
it up some more, and now I seem to be stuck fixing a lot of stuff that's been
ignored for too long.

Thus my problem is that nobody on the list seems to have had trouble with their
turn-signals failing, all out, and the diagnostics in the service manual fail to
diagnose!  I need some help here before I have to pay the dealer.

Is it true that nobody has written up the KLR clutch yet?  If not, I'll do it in
about a week.  I'm gonna pull mine while installing the Kickstart (is THAT
written up?  I don't think so!).

Any information I find I will certainly contribute back to the group.
Anybody that helps out, I'll buy ya a pitcher at Moab!
Cheers!
Beez






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Wheelie impaired
Date: 30 Mar 1999 14:14:34 PST

>The wheelie (or "mono") challenged among us, myself included, may
>be able to learn something from a couple of videos by the British
>magazine "Fast Bikes", titled "How to Pull Wheelies & Influence
>People", parts 1 and 2.
>"Fast Bikes" is a sports bike mag that has published a few videos
>now which are full of good old-fashioned sports bike anarchy.
>
>Unfortunate for US-based listers, the vids only come out on PAL
>(Euro) video format, not the other "Never-The-Same-Color" variety.
>
>Mister_T

Mister T,

Sounds like a business opportunity here, copying these puppies over
to gawd's own VHS format and selling them for exorbitant prices to
wheelie impaired KLX/R's. I'm fumbling for my credit card even now.

Marick




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Tech
Date: 30 Mar 1999 15:19:30 -0700

>Thus my problem is that nobody on the list seems to have had trouble with their
>turn-signals failing, all out, and the diagnostics in the service manual fail to
>diagnose!  I need some help here before I have to pay the dealer.


Chris...no offense intended but for a guy who just tore down his whole top end and rebuilt it
I'm puzzled as to why this has you stumped...I'm not good at electronics but on a failure like
this the troubleshooting always seems straightforward...make sure you have a good ground with a
circuit tester...make sure you have power off the battery...past the fuses..to the switch...if
you have power coming into the switch and not out of it...the problem is in the switch...no? If
you have power coming out and all the way to the signals then it is either bulbs or
ground...forgive me...but let's just walk it through together...tell me that you've done these
simple checks and what the results are...

Here to help if we can...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Street Metzler tire pressure
Date: 30 Mar 1999 23:27:05 +0100

I am sure I am running 26F 29R for a normal load and 28F 32R for a heavy
load.

How do you rate your ME55: is it sticky and does it last?
I was talked out of the ME55 in favour of the MEZ2.


-----Original Message-----


>Hey Listees,
>
>I'm running street Metzlers on the KLR, a ME33 up front and a ME55A on the
>rear.  (I'm pretty sure somebody else is running this combo, but I can't
>remember who.)  I'm running 24 psi front and rear.  The current discussion
>on tire pressure piqued my curiosity.  If you're running this combo, or
>really any other exclusively street tire combo, please share your pressure
>with me.
>
>TIA,
>
>Guy
>
>
>All messages to klr650 must be 'plain text' only...no attachments...
>Subscribe /unsubscribe info at http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page60.html
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andy Burton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Oil leak from the crank case
Date: 30 Mar 1999 22:57:10 +0100

Many thanks for your replies.

I have a '97 C2 with 7,300 miles on the clock.  Before that I had an '89
KLR600 that had an annoying oil leak that a dealer failed to fix on two
occassions and I sold it because of this.

I have since spoken to Kawasaki UK and they seem keen to fix it under
warranty if it truely is a defect (my dealer was very negative).  So it's
back to my (not so) local dealer to get it fixed  - though I'll be without a
bike now for a week or so.

I notice I get two years warranty in the UK as opposed to your one year and
it finishes in May.

Andy




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Back from Baja
Date: 30 Mar 1999 22:30:05 +0000

Lordy, next time I leave town for a week, someone remind me to set
myself to no mail and to search the archives if I think I might have
missed something.

Baja was great. I got to ride on my first official dirt road. :) *grin*
Even with a loaded up KLR after a fair bit of riding already that day,
the dirt was fabulous. Just before setting off down it I commented to
the fellow traveler who'd brought his CBR1000F along that I didn't know
anything about dirt. So he gave me 2 pointers. Stand up, even though it
feels wrong. And on washboards, go 4 or 40. So with those two pearls of
wisdom, I set off down the dirt road that heads south from the 2 at El
Condor. And all went quite well until I rounded a corner and saw 3 of my
travelling companions stopped in front of, wait for it, my first
official water crossing!!!

We had all just passed a white nissan sentra thingie, so we waited for
it to catch up and show us where to cross, etc. After it went through,
we went one by one. 3 were across, and no others from our group had
appeared, so I couldn't stall any longer. I rode in and the water shot
up as it had for all the others, and about 1/2 way across, I found
myself slowing down due to the water resistance. (Nobody mentioned
this!!!) well, gave her a little more gas praying I wouldn't find that
was the wrong thing to do, and then I was clear of the water. I was way
excited and happy and climbing the banks of the water/hill in the road,
and then decided to stop like everyone else, and so I hit the brakes (I
can see you all groaning) and immediately went down. As my friends
helped me pick up Chie, they explained that I shouldn't use the front
brakes on dirt. Kinda like hitting the ejector seat button.

We went on after making sure everyone in the party had safely crossed
and ended up not getting to our final destination of a National Park,
but instead camping in a sandy wide spot in the road where Maxine (on a
400 Hawk) dumped for the second time. B (on the CBR) decided this was a
lovely campsite and we broke out the cervezas.

The next morning we went out the way we came in. The only way to make a
loop out of it would have been to hit a road with lots of sand where our
party had traveled 3 years ago (one broke a collarbone and another a
bone in his neck, so they're quite leery of the place) so we
backtracked. We stayed on paved roads until we were south of San Felipe.
Well, it was allegedly paved to Puertocitos, but the 4 bent rims didn't
buy that. I enjoyed lying on the beach. Puertocitos is kinda ugly, but
it's great when you're there with a party of 10 and you can buy 2 fish
that'll feed you all for $5. We stayed until I'd finally warmed up.

Then the rest of the group continued south on the dirt road while
I turned back with the CBR (his rubber was fading way too fast, and he'd
dented his front rim on both sides on the potholes, and there was a
split in his front tire, so we dashed to Mexicali hoping that the rubber
would last). I made it back to work with a romping headcold (rain,
freezing rain, it was sunny in mexico, maybe i should just go back
forever, oh goodie, fog, too, and now san diego rush hour. baja is
calling me.)

So I'm now a huge romping Baja groupie. If only someone would just hand
me money so I could spend all of it down there and not have to worry
about how to pay off the plastic. :(

Maybe vacation will come around again soon.
--
Sarah Barwig
Developer
WeddingChannel.com
[phone]
888 S. Figueroa St., Suite 700
Los Angeles, CA, 90017





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bixby, Jeff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Kickstart & Microfiche
Date: 30 Mar 1999 16:44:34 -0600



    snip.............I'm gonna pull mine while installing the Kickstart
..........snip

    Is there a kickstart available? How much? I didn't see anything on
the FAQ, I am sure that this is another subject that has gone 'round and
'round!

    Also, has the discussion of putting the KLR parts fiche on CD-ROM
ever come up? The Yamaha FJ list that I am on did this about a year ago and
it certainly is handy! It is nice to have the factory part #s and the
exploded views are convenient as well!

    One of the lister's contacted Yamaha Motor Corp. and they had no
problems at all about doing this as far as copyrights go..... I am not sure
what Kawi would say! The more parts we order the more money they make!!!

    Thoughts and ideas?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (dr350) (NKLRDR) Knee braces
Date: 30 Mar 1999 16:28:45 -0700

Gino
After snapping my ACL & having a total knee recontruct using the patella
tendion graft for the AXL I became the proud owner an EVS knee brace. I
fitted it all up & even had the boot rebuilt to close over the knee brace.
Well the first I went riding & went to get it out of my bag I could not find
it. My buddy informed me that I didn't need it & he took it out. He has had
two knee replacements & never used a brace. I am glad he tossed it now. I
rode out when I snapped my ACL, but you can not ride out with a broken
femur. If you wear riding boots & a knee brace that is where it will break.
If your knee is bad get it fixed & ride without a brace.
Happy Trails
Tim
PS check your UPS
-----Original Message-----
'[e-mail]' <[e-mail]>


>Anyone have any good advice on a knee braces that provide lateral support
>and knee cap protection?
>
>Gino
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Erik Schelzig <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 18:51:46 -0500 (EST)

On Tue, 30 Mar 1999, Bogdan Swider wrote:

>     Naw, Jackie Chen's "Rumble in the Bronx" demonstrated that the Bronx
> (below Fordham Rd, of course) is a dirt biker's paradise. You can ride over
> cars and everything!!  Bogdan, Who did some time in Greenpoint, Brooklyn
> another moto-heaven.

I think that Jackie Chan movie was filmed in Vancouver . . .  I don't know
what that says about New York - or Vancouver for that matter.

allbests,

erik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Monster Sand Dunes
Date: 30 Mar 1999 16:20:23 -0800


So on my way back from the college today, I decided to stop off on the way
and ride an area that is loaded with sand dunes.  WOAH!  What a workout!  I
know I had too much pressure in the tires for them to grip, and I just kind
of plowed through it all.  I was lucky that there was a little bit of rain
and cold weather last week, it compacted the sand just enough.  Riding out
there after a good rainfall, or in the winter when the ground is frozen is
fun.  But any other time, and the sand (silt) has the consistency of sifted
flour.  You really got to keep on the gas and keep the speed up, because if
you stop, you're stuck.

Yep, its a heavy bike, not like my old CR 480 at all.  I feel that the ride
would be a lot better with better tires, like the DOT knobbies I've been
lusting for.  I'll have to try and let some air out for next time.  I really
gave my suspension a work out.  I think I have it set up pretty well as a
good compromise between dirt and street, but I did nearly bottom a few
times...Its still better than my real old XL 500 S was, with its dual shocks
on the back that jackhammered around.

Hey Sarah, glad you had a good time.  Take it from a dirt rider though, you
can and should indeed use your front brake.  The thing is that when you
brake, your standing on the pegs and shift your body toward the rear of the
bike.  If you feel the front tire start to slip, let it off.  It's not like
you're going to highside or anything, but a little countersteer might be
necessary.  Maybe your brakes didn't respond the way that you were used to
because they were wet from the water crossing?

Hey, good surfing down that way....anybody ever strap their stick to their
bike?

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cheap plastic waterproof panniers
Date: 30 Mar 1999 16:26:32 -0800



>I made some swell saddle bags out of soft-sided coolers from Sam's Club. I
>searched long and hard for just the right coolers. The coolers I found have
>a cordura texture and lots of pockets and are made by "Cooltech". I have
>$35.00 wrapped up in them. They look great and are durable & waterproof.


Checked out the pic.  Nice ride!  Can you tell me how you mounted the
coolers to the bike, and what size are the coolers?

First time I've seen a good picture of the B model...can you send me some
more?  Around here I doubt I'll ever get to see one in person.

Thanks,

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Maier Woods Pro Handguards
Date: 30 Mar 1999 16:28:25 -0800 (PST)

Fellow listers:

Spent another few hours in the parking garage...
In the midst of all the futility there was one
success story-- the replacement of my all-plastic
Acerbis Rally Guards with a pair of Maier Woods
Pro (aluminum) guards.  They look VERY strong,
with the protective wrap-around bar measuring
about 3/8" in thickness.  I bought the plastic
spoilers too.  Everything went on quite easily,
just remember to get ALL the threads started
before tightening down any one connection.  These
things will definitely take a fall (and then
some), a real factor when you consider the force
that would be generated by the weight of our bikes
and handlebar-to-ground distance.  For what it's
worth...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Rear wheel friction
Date: 30 Mar 1999 16:42:03 -0800 (PST)

Listers...

Well I took everyone's advice and dropped the rear
wheel to open up the brake pads.  However after
doing that and re-installing it I am still having
a problem with it not wanting to spin freely.
Chain tensioners and axle nut are still loose,
chain looks okay, rear brake looks good, and a
generous coating of bearing grease has been
applied to the axle.  Effort is required to spin
it when everything's loose, and when I tighten the
axle nut the wheel becomes absolutely immobile.
This leads me to believe it could have something
to do with the swingarms or the way the axle is
threading through.  Or could the wheel hub be
doing something weird on me?  Have any of you seen
this problem before?  Some tips please, as I'm
wanting to tackle it again tomorrow...  Thanks in
advance,

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR-Back from Baja
Date: 30 Mar 1999 16:47:55 -0800 (PST)

> Baja was great. I got to ride on my first
> official dirt road. :) *grin*
> Even with a loaded up KLR after a fair bit of
> riding already that day,
> the dirt was fabulous.

Good for you Sarah!  Whether you realize it or
not, every minute you spend in the dirt is money
in the bank skills-wise, it's just that most
people have too much fun to ever notice it.  And a
stream crossing too...  Nothing to it but to do
it, huh?  Congrats on your recent adventure...

Juan Villarreal, '97
"The Happy Hooligan"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maier Woods Pro Handguards
Date: 30 Mar 1999 17:08:36 -0800

>Spent another few hours in the parking garage...
>In the midst of all the futility there was one
>success story-- the replacement of my all-plastic
>Acerbis Rally Guards with a pair of Maier Woods
>Pro (aluminum) guards.  They look VERY strong,
>with the protective wrap-around bar measuring
>about 3/8" in thickness.  I bought the plastic
>spoilers too.  Everything went on quite easily,
>just remember to get ALL the threads started
>before tightening down any one connection.  These
>things will definitely take a fall (and then
>some), a real factor when you consider the force
>that would be generated by the weight of our bikes
>and handlebar-to-ground distance.  For what it's
>worth...
>
Sometimes my clutch lever makes a neat loud rattle against the Maier when
the bike is idling on the sidestand, other than that, they are definitely
the shit.  I've been wondering if they will interfere with a bar mounted
wind screen though.  Well, maybe I'll never put one on so I don't know if I
care.  The spoilers definitely help in the cold weather.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Rear wheel friction
Date: 30 Mar 1999 17:16:56 -0800



>Listers...
>
>Well I took everyone's advice and dropped the rear
>wheel to open up the brake pads.  However after
>doing that and re-installing it I am still having
>a problem with it not wanting to spin freely.
>Chain tensioners and axle nut are still loose,
>chain looks okay, rear brake looks good, and a
>generous coating of bearing grease has been
>applied to the axle.  Effort is required to spin
>it when everything's loose, and when I tighten the
>axle nut the wheel becomes absolutely immobile.
>This leads me to believe it could have something
>to do with the swingarms or the way the axle is
>threading through.  Or could the wheel hub be
>doing something weird on me?  Have any of you seen
>this problem before?  Some tips please, as I'm
>wanting to tackle it again tomorrow...  Thanks in
>advance,
>
Did you check the wheel bearings for any play?  I replaced mine last summer.
Are you sure that you got the spacers in properly?  Last summer I replaced
my chain, sprockets, wheel bearings, rotors and pads.  After I noticed that
the rear wheel didn't want to spin freely, even with the chain off.  I
couldn't figure what was wrong, as everything was together right.  I even
removed the rear brake assembly and checked that the pads were separated
right.  Never figured out what was wrong.  I just put it together and rode
it, and after a tank of gas, when I checked the chain's tension adjustment,
I noticed that the rear wheel spun freely again.  Go figure.  I think that
maybe the pads weren't seated right or something.  Try removing the brake
assembly, tightening the rear axle nut and see if it spins.  If not,
something's wrong there.  If it does, then its the brake, and it just might
need to be ridden some, drag and all, with some hard applications to loosen
it up.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR IBMC?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 01:10:49 +0000

One other thing from the Baja trip...

Anyone ever hear of a group called the International Brotherhood of
Motorcycle Campers? When we were trying to hook up with the No. Cal.
contingent of our group at the start of the trip, we were going to meet
in a campground. My friend and I were pointed towards one loop by
everyone in the campground. So, we swing round there, and are
immediately greeted by "Welcome to the brotherhood!" Which confused my
friend and I, but we responded in kind, "Are the Kooks here yet?" (The
group of friends I was traveling with refers to themselves as the Gang
of Kooks.) The brotherhood allowed as how they hadn't met any official
Kooks, but they claimed to be such themselves, so we hung out by their
fire and shared stories. Seemed like a nice bunch, anyone ever hear of
them before?

--
Sarah Barwig
Developer
WeddingChannel.com
[phone]
888 S. Figueroa St., Suite 700
Los Angeles, CA, 90017





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: John Smith <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Gear Box
Date: 30 Mar 1999 20:26:33 -0500

I read a review of the KLR650 and it said there are problems with the
gear box; specifically that there are multiple neutrals. Is this true?
Anyone have any problems? I have compared the Suzuki DR650SE, BMW F650,
and KLR650 and the winner is KLR650 and I am ready to buy one, but I
have to know how you all feel about the gear box. Should I get a 99 or a
98 left over if I can find one? Thanks in advance for all your replies,

-Brian Shepard
 [e-mail]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Rear wheel friction
Date: 30 Mar 1999 20:36:49 -0500

Juan Villarreal wrote:
> Listers...
> Well I took everyone's advice and dropped the rear
> wheel to open up the brake pads.  However after
> doing that and re-installing it I am still having
> a problem with it not wanting to spin freely.

Sometimes greasing the axle and bearings makes them feel tight and
resistant to turn. Lots of grease, while good on some axle and bearing
setups (keeps water and grit/dirt out for a while)will give this same
feeling initially until you ride a few times, heat up that grease and
make the assembly more "supple" and seat it. Now this theory is out the
door if you absolutely feel *locked* or near-locked resistance. That
should not be happening. There are metal dust caps that fit over the
outer bearings and between the swing arm and hub. Are those seated
properly? (this is more of a thinking out loud and starting from the
outside working in troubleshooting question) If they are riding
high/unseated, they could cause the resistance you speak of, especially
if they are backed by an overabundance of grease.

HTH,

Jake in Jacksonville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Maier Woods Pro Handguards
Date: 30 Mar 1999 17:31:22 -0800 (PST)

> Sometimes my clutch lever makes a neat loud
> rattle against the Maier when
> the bike is idling on the sidestand, other than
> that, they are definitely
> the shit...

I sawed the balls off both my levers prior to
installing the old Acerbis set, so I'm not
figuring it will be a problem.  Everything did go
up an octave though...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gear Box
Date: 30 Mar 1999 20:33:24 EST

On 3/30/99, [e-mail] writes: snip

>problems with the gear box; specifically that there are multiple neutrals.
>Is this true? I have compared the Suzuki DR650SE, BMW F650,
>and KLR650 and the winner is KLR650 and I am ready to buy one, but I
>have to know how you all feel about the gear box. Should I get a 99 or
>a 98 left over if I can find one?

 The only time I've had problems with 'multiple neutrals' is when
 the stock shifter has weakened at the weld or when I replaced it
 in the wrong position (for me). It's a weak link in the bike, but
 there's an aftermarket solution. If you buy the '98 instead of the
 '99 you'll be missing out on the snazzy new graphics...

 Redondo Ron  A10   (who missed out)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Well, well, well
Date: 30 Mar 1999 22:02:46 EST

My Cycle World and Rider were waiting in the mailbox.  CW has a indepth
article about BMW and the PD win.  Enough to make any sane person gag.  Rider
has a wonderful article on a decked out KLR.  Skip the CW, buy the Rider mag.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Marvel Mystery
Date: 30 Mar 1999 20:32:39 -0700

..........................> snip<........................


>I  normally don't ride like that, but I just changed the oil and put in
some
>Marvel Mystery oil, like one poster suggested, to try and cure my oil
>consumption problem.

>Jeff



Jeff, I`m sorry to tell you that while Marvel Mystery Oil may assist
sticking valves and such, what it mainly does is lowers your viscosity,
which you don`t need with an oil consumption problem, it will probably make
it worse.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 30 Mar 1999 20:46:23 -0700

..........................> snip<........................
and yet I keep coming back to Washington.  The only place I
>can think of might be better, because I just read an article about it, is
>Moab......Say Fred, how's the windsurfing around there?
>
>Jeff



Hey now! At least here in Montana you can have all the snow you want and at
least we don`t have to put up with that sorry summer weather but a few weeks
out of the year. We can make all the bombs we want, hoard guns, drive fast
and tip all the cows we want. How about a Sat`day nite sniping Calyfornans
at the border, Yea Haw!!

p.s. don`t forget the sheep!

 Buck Cody




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tim Bootle <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR  saying goodbye for now
Date: 30 Mar 1999 22:51:35 -0500

To all, I've enjoyed reading this list a great deal.  The information
provided here is excellent.  I'll keep up using the new search engine.
My project at work is at the critical point and I am going to be working
late every day so am going to unsubscribe for now.  -If you're ever in
Tampa Bay Florida region give me a call.  I'm the only Tim Bootle in
directory assistance. -Tim




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLRDR) Knee braces
Date: 30 Mar 1999 21:05:36 -0700



>Anyone have any good advice on a knee braces that provide lateral support
>and knee cap protection?
>
>Gino
>
>

Gino,
  Over the pants or under? Do you want metal stays or fabric tension? What
activity do you intend to be doing with it on? Let me know, having had my
left knee broken twice
 ( not to mention most of the other bones) and innumerable twists and
ligament tears ( all in thanks to 19 years of rodeo), I have a fine
assortment of braces that had to be used for various activities.

Skip ( who`s rodeo retired thanks to Her)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Rear wheel friction
Date: 30 Mar 1999 23:03:24 EST

Juan, at first, you gave the impression that your brake was the problem. Now
it sounds like you have not put a spacer in or put one in the wrong place.
With everything proper, you will have spacers against inner bearing races and
no matter how tight you cinch down the nut, there should be no effect on the
wheel turning, except for a little brake drag. good luck, frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Marvel Mystery
Date: 30 Mar 1999 23:16:50 EST

In a message dated 3/30/99 9:40:36 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Jeff, I`m sorry to tell you that while Marvel Mystery Oil may assist
 sticking valves and such, what it mainly does is lowers your viscosity,
 which you don`t need with an oil consumption problem, it will probably make
 it worse. >>
I don't think the point is to thicken the oil to lower consumption, but to
free up carbon in the ring grooves and behind the rings. In order to get a
cleaning effect you would need the oil to penetrate the carbon cake and use
oil. If it doesn't help,  you're out $3.00. If it helps,  you save a lot more
money and riding time. Please keep us posted as to your experience, thanks,
frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gear Box
Date: 30 Mar 1999 23:09:54 EST

In a message dated 3/30/99 7:26:30 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Should I get a 99 or a
 98 left over if I can find one? Thanks in advance for all your replies, >>
Brian, you must have read the review on Motorcycle on Line. The guy must have
really big feet or is new at riding. The KLR has a great gear box. Have you
ever ridden a Ducati? They have 6 gears and 5 neutrals and a random indicator
light. Get the best deal on whichever bike, they are identical. IMHO frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Tech
Date: 30 Mar 1999 21:18:23 -0700

.....................> snip snip <..........................
>Thus my problem is that nobody on the list seems to have had trouble with
their
>turn-signals failing, all out, and the diagnostics in the service manual
fail to
>diagnose!  I need some help here before I have to pay the dealer.
>
>Cheers!
>Beez



Beez, what Kurt said. With your tester or multi-meter and power on with left
or right signal switch on, start checking for voltage at the bulb socket and
work your way forward. There are a few connections to go through. Also,
don`t forget the flasher unit, beneath the forward right side of the
fuel tank ( at least on my A9). Check  both sides of the switch.
   Let us know if nothing shows up.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: (dr350) May Rider Magazine
Date: 30 Mar 1999 21:55:04 -0700



|I thought I would report that the May issue of Rider magazine has a nice
|article about a Project KLR 650 in nice dual sport touring mode.  Written by
|Mark Tuttle.  Pretty good stuff, though I am not a KLR expert - it's nice to
|know that he knows what it takes to do dual sport touring.  TW


Is Rider commonly available...like at Barnes & Noble...or is it more like MCN?

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Marvel Mystery
Date: 30 Mar 1999 21:58:26 -0700


>I don't think the point is to thicken the oil to lower consumption, but to
>free up carbon in the ring grooves and behind the rings. In order to get a
>cleaning effect you would need the oil to penetrate the carbon cake and use
>oil. If it doesn't help,  you're out $3.00. If it helps,  you save a lot
more
>money and riding time. Please keep us posted as to your experience, thanks,
>frank
>


I`m not advocating thickening the oil, but thinning it, especially with
Marvel Mystery Oil, may worsen it. In high mileage engines
( I don`t know how many are on Jeff`s) the removal of deposits in the ring
grooves ( which in many cases assists the worn rings and grooves to maintain
ring pressure against the cylinder walls)
will increase and/or start oil consumption. I`ve seen guys tear down a high
time engine for some lower work and figure they`ll clean up the cylinder and
piston while they`re at it. They`ll clean the cylinder, rings and ring
grooves and then put everything back together. Guess what happens, they
start burning oil, because they cleaned the grooves and didn`t put new rings
in. The old rings were only keeping proper cylinder wall tension because of
the carbon and deposits in the grooves.
   If you suspect that the rings are sticking, you can check by doing a
compression check. If they are, using MMO might help, but you`d be better
off pulling the cylinder instead of a quick fix.
   I`m not saying it won`t help, but I`d bet that it won`t.
For those who want to know, I`ve seen an analysis of MMO, and it`s basically
a highly refined solvent with a very low viscosity machine oil added. That`s
the reason it gets into really tight spots and cleans so well.
    If Jeff`s oil consumption is due to normal circumstances, worn guides,
rings, etc... the MMO won`t help.
   Jeff, have you checked the following for oil deposits: muffler,
breather tube, plugs?
   Check in, inquiring minds want to know.

Skip




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Wass <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) New 99
Date: 30 Mar 1999 23:08:42 -0600

Picked up the new 1999 KLR 650 yesterday  paid $4495.00 plust tax & lic.
Replaced my 1995 KLR 650 with only 9K on it hopefully this one won=92t
drink oil like a two-stroke. Just what does Kawasaki put in this things
for oil it=92s real milky looking. I=92ve already by-passed the side stan=
d
safety switch is there any reason to leave the switch and the the cable
on the bike? I thought this might make a neat place to relocate the fuse
block so you don=92t have to mess with removing the seat. Seems to me
there was a discussion awhile back on some resettable circuit breakers
dose anyone know off hand where you can get them, part #, and what size
you need. Do the valves REALLY need to be checked at 500 miles or could
you safely go to say 1K ? Why is it the dealers set the bike up with 3=94
of fork sticking out of the triple clamp? that was the first thing I did
when I got home . I think I=92ll try and get a few miles on it before I
put the progressive springs in the forks and change the oil . Any other
suggestions?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: (dr350) (NKLRDR) Knee braces
Date: 30 Mar 1999 21:30:12 -0800

At 09:53 AM 3/30/99 -0700, Pokluda, Gino F wrote:
>Anyone have any good advice on a knee braces that provide lateral support
>and knee cap protection?
>
>Gino
>
>

Is this for biking, sports, or all in general.  The best brace will be one
that you get custom made to your leg.  Look for a sports orthotics place,
but be forwarned... EXPENSIVE.

Arne


Arne







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) New 99
Date: 31 Mar 1999 00:42:15 EST

In a message dated 3/30/99 11:09:38 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<  Any other
 suggestions? >>
Scott, I removed the stock screws that hold the rear mufler guard and the
front guard under the R/H plastic body panel and used 3/4 inch spacers and
appropriate allen bolts on the rear guard and spaced out the front one with
1/2 inch nuts to reduce the heat to soft luggage, and the plastic panel.
Sometimes the R/H panel insulation pad comes loose and has to be reglued so as
not to lose it. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: (dr350) (NKLRDR) Knee braces
Date: 30 Mar 1999 21:41:05 -0800

At 04:28 PM 3/30/99 -0700, Tim Bernard wrote:
>Gino
>After snapping my ACL & having a total knee recontruct using the patella
>tendion graft for the AXL I became the proud owner an EVS knee brace.

I've been there man (still am actually).  For me they used hamstring
tendons and fashioned a new ACL.

Arne


Arne







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Marvel Mystery
Date: 31 Mar 1999 00:45:22 EST

In a message dated 3/30/99 11:09:40 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<  If Jeff`s oil consumption is due to normal circumstances, worn guides,
 rings, etc... the MMO won`t help. >>
Agreed skip, there is no miracle in a can to fix worn parts. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ripkid" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Gear Box (NKLR)
Date: 30 Mar 1999 21:48:29 -0800



>
> << Should I get a 99 or a
>  98 left over if I can find one? Thanks in advance for all your
> replies, >>

> Brian, you must have read the review on Motorcycle on Line. The
> guy must have
> really big feet or is new at riding. The KLR has a great gear
> box. Have you
> ever ridden a Ducati? They have 6 gears and 5 neutrals and a
> random indicator
> light. Get the best deal on whichever bike, they are identical. IMHO frank
--------
Ditto!
The only twighlight zone I have encountered so far on my A13 is the classic
1st to 2cnd trauma. And I like to think thats because I have new Aereostich
Combat boots. The gear box is solid, as is the bike.
-rik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Randy Golla" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) What???
Date: 30 Mar 1999 21:50:15 PST

>I sawed the balls off both my levers prior to
>installing the old Acerbis set, so I'm not
>figuring it will be a problem.  Everything did go
>up an octave though...

Sounds a little painful to me are you sure that sawing them off is
totally necassary in order to gain full protection. Is there something
else a guy could do?

Sorry just had to long night
Randy
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Jackie Chan
Date: 30 Mar 1999 21:50:22 -0800

At 06:51 PM 3/30/99 -0500, Erik Schelzig wrote:
>On Tue, 30 Mar 1999, Bogdan Swider wrote:
>
>>     Naw, Jackie Chen's "Rumble in the Bronx" demonstrated that the Bronx
>> (below Fordham Rd, of course) is a dirt biker's paradise. You can ride over
>> cars and everything!!  Bogdan, Who did some time in Greenpoint, Brooklyn
>> another moto-heaven.
>
>I think that Jackie Chan movie was filmed in Vancouver . . .  I don't know
>what that says about New York - or Vancouver for that matter.
>
>allbests,
>
>erik


You are correct sir.  Chan's "Rumble in the (vancouver) Bronx" was filmed
here.  What it says,  is that a location shoot is much cheaper to do here
than in the states.  That is why they (the movie dudes) are calling
Vancouver "Hollywood North".  There are a lot of movies and TV series being
shot here on a regular basis (Pre-'99 X-FILES, Stargate SG1, Millenium,
that cop show about the guy with the overdeveloped senses, Outer Limits,
etc..)

A good friend of mine starred in "Rumble...".  He played the character of
the police detective/Sgt.  When acting he goes by the name of Dave
Fredricks.  You can also see him in a re-curring police role in the new
"Adams Family".  Unfortunately he's got cancer and has only been given a
few months to live.

Arne


Arne







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Maier Woods Pro Handguards
Date: 30 Mar 1999 21:53:42 -0800

At 04:28 PM 3/30/99 -0800, Juan Villarreal wrote:
>Fellow listers:
>
>Spent another few hours in the parking garage...
>In the midst of all the futility there was one
>success story-- the replacement of my all-plastic
>Acerbis Rally Guards with a pair of Maier Woods
>Pro (aluminum) guards.  They look VERY strong,
>with the protective wrap-around bar measuring
>about 3/8" in thickness.  I bought the plastic
>spoilers too.  Everything went on quite easily,
>just remember to get ALL the threads started
>before tightening down any one connection.  These
>things will definitely take a fall (and then
>some), a real factor when you consider the force
>that would be generated by the weight of our bikes
>and handlebar-to-ground distance.  For what it's
>worth...
>
>Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
>"The Happy Hooligan"


Hey Juan,

I've never seen these guards.  How would you compare them to the aluminum
MSR guards that also can have a plastic spoiler attached to them?

Arne


Arne







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gear Box
Date: 30 Mar 1999 21:58:08 -0800

At 08:26 PM 3/30/99 -0500, John Smith wrote:
>I read a review of the KLR650 and it said there are problems with the
>gear box; specifically that there are multiple neutrals. Is this true?
>Anyone have any problems? I have compared the Suzuki DR650SE, BMW F650,
>and KLR650 and the winner is KLR650 and I am ready to buy one, but I
>have to know how you all feel about the gear box. Should I get a 99 or a
>98 left over if I can find one? Thanks in advance for all your replies,
>
>-Brian Shepard
> [e-mail]
>
>

Haven't found a problem with my gearbox.  No different than any other bike
I've owned.  I think that you just get used to your own bike.  Test riders
don't spend enough time with a bike (usually) to get a feel for it's
personality.

As for the difference in the years.  There is none (except pre-'96).  If
you can get a '98 for less with full warranty go for it.

Arne


Arne







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mauerman, Eric" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) busted....
Date: 30 Mar 1999 22:07:16 -0800

Hey listers:
Had a graceful crunch the other day and broke the choke lever and the left
rear signal light housing.  Any recommendations for a new choke level with a
little more beef.  Also I can't figure out how to remove the plastic light
housing and socket without removing the gear rack or cutting the wires.

E~ in Oregon, KLR98



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Moody <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New 99
Date: 31 Mar 1999 01:15:46 -0500

Scott Wass wrote:
>
>>>>> snip
> Seems to me
> there was a discussion awhile back on some resettable circuit breakers
> dose anyone know off hand where you can get them, part #, and what size
> you need.
>>>>> snip

Got mine at Pep Boys for 3.99 each
Same amperage as stock, but you have to replace the stock 3AG type
fuseholders with blade type fuseholders (also available at Pep Boys for
2.49 each).

It works for me!

--
Bryan Moody
Greensboro, NC
86 Concours, 94 KLR650
COG Southeast Area Director http://www.concours.org/se

IBA: BBG, CCC Gold



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeff <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) False Neutrals
Date: 30 Mar 1999 23:35:11 -0700

>From:John Smith <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (klr650) Gear Box
You wrote:
>I read a review of the KLR650 and it said there are problems with the
>gear box; specifically that there are multiple neutrals. Is this true?

Yep!  I found a neutral between 3rd  and 4th one day while lesisurely
shifting in the neighborhood.  I had to really stomp on the shifter to get
it to go into a gear.  This happened to me at about 150 miles on my new
A13.  No BFD though.  Didn't get the neurtal light either! - (dah)

--
Jeff, NM KLR650-A13




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) New 99
Date: 30 Mar 1999 22:59:28 -0800


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 1999 9:08 PM


>Why is it the dealers set the bike up with 3"
> of fork sticking out of the triple clamp? that was the first thing I did
> when I got home .

I don't know, but mine was set up the same way.  I assumed it was because
the previous owner (I bought it from him with 27 kilometers on it) was only
5' 6".

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR  California trip
Date: 31 Mar 1999 01:20:04 -0800

>..........................> snip<........................
>and yet I keep coming back to Washington.  The only place I
>>can think of might be better, because I just read an article about it, is
>>Moab......Say Fred, how's the windsurfing around there?
>>
>>Jeff
>
>
>
>Hey now! At least here in Montana you can have all the snow you want and at
>least we don`t have to put up with that sorry summer weather but a few
weeks
>out of the year. We can make all the bombs we want, hoard guns, drive fast
>and tip all the cows we want. How about a Sat`day nite sniping Calyfornans
>at the border, Yea Haw!!
>
(Big Chuckle)  Yeah, I spent some time in Missoula, Kalisbell, and Polsen.
Loved that area, really beautiful.  I really had my heart broke by a girl
from Missoula though, and going there again would bring back bad, sad
memories....Plus Flat Head Lake is too cold to ski until July.

You can tell when the gangs are moving into your area when instead cow
tipping, you see cows get spray paint graffiti.  Ain't country life grand?

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Marvel Mystery
Date: 31 Mar 1999 01:29:36 -0800

>I don't think the point is to thicken the oil to lower consumption, but to
>free up carbon in the ring grooves and behind the rings. In order to get a
>cleaning effect you would need the oil to penetrate the carbon cake and use
>oil. If it doesn't help,  you're out $3.00. If it helps,  you save a lot
more
>money and riding time. Please keep us posted as to your experience, thanks,
>frank
>
Hey Frank, how long do you think I should keep it in there?  A normal
interval or less?

I've noticed that the oil I put in, Valvoline Premium Blue 15w-40, shifts
just as well as the Castrol Syntec did, which was my primary reason for
going to the synthetic, and synthetic blend oils in the first place.  My
clutch doesn't seem to slip as bad either.  However, 1/5 of the volume is
the Marvel Mystery Oil, so I can't say unequivocally its just the Valvoline
performing so well.  I put Marvel's recommended ratio of oil in my gas too.
Couldn't hurt I figured, but I won't add it for the next tank.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Marvel Mystery
Date: 31 Mar 1999 01:42:26 -0800


>
>
>I`m not advocating thickening the oil, but thinning it, especially with
>Marvel Mystery Oil, may worsen it. In high mileage engines
>( I don`t know how many are on Jeff`s) the removal of deposits in the ring
>grooves ( which in many cases assists the worn rings and grooves to
maintain
>ring pressure against the cylinder walls)
>will increase and/or start oil consumption. I`ve seen guys tear down a high
>time engine for some lower work and figure they`ll clean up the cylinder
and
>piston while they`re at it. They`ll clean the cylinder, rings and ring
>grooves and then put everything back together. Guess what happens, they
>start burning oil, because they cleaned the grooves and didn`t put new
rings
>in. The old rings were only keeping proper cylinder wall tension because of
>the carbon and deposits in the grooves.
>   If you suspect that the rings are sticking, you can check by doing a
>compression check. If they are, using MMO might help, but you`d be better
>off pulling the cylinder instead of a quick fix.
>   I`m not saying it won`t help, but I`d bet that it won`t.
>For those who want to know, I`ve seen an analysis of MMO, and it`s
basically
>a highly refined solvent with a very low viscosity machine oil added.
That`s
>the reason it gets into really tight spots and cleans so well.
>    If Jeff`s oil consumption is due to normal circumstances, worn guides,
>rings, etc... the MMO won`t help.
>   Jeff, have you checked the following for oil deposits: muffler,
>breather tube, plugs?
>   Check in, inquiring minds want to know.
>
>Skip
>
Well, over 24,000 miles now.  It's always consumed oil, and my sneaking
suspicion is that the previous owner sold it for this reason, seeing as how
he had a whole stable full of bikes (YZR, Ninja, KLX, KDX).  I personally
think that the rings were never bedded properly to the cylinder, since he
said that he rode bike to work, and he lived in a high traffic stop and go
area.

When I checked the valve clearances last summer, I replaced the plug.  I
don't remember seeing evidence of oil on the plug, and it had a reddish
rusty coating on the electrode, which is quite often normal.  My rear fender
is definitely sooty and blackened from the muffler, and once my friend said
that I was blowing smoke after a hard acceleration.  I have never noticed
visible smoke though.  Shoot, sorry, I just get on it and ride it, and
really haven't been too scientific in this investigation, because it
continues to run reliably.  Maybe next week I'll go over it and check the
spark plug and such.  I should also have a better idea of exactly how much
oil is being consumed by then.  I'm starting to think, especially with the
low cost of the Valvoline oil, that I'll just continue to add oil and ride
for as long as the engine runs reliably and doesn't blow a ton of smoke.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) What???
Date: 31 Mar 1999 01:51:14 -0800



>>I sawed the balls off both my levers prior to
>>installing the old Acerbis set, so I'm not
>>figuring it will be a problem.  Everything did go
>>up an octave though...
>
>Sounds a little painful to me are you sure that sawing them off is
>totally necassary in order to gain full protection. Is there something
>else a guy could do?
>
>Sorry just had to long night
>Randy


My bike has the Maier Woods Pro Aluminum Handguards with the Maier Standard
Handguard Spoilers, and my balls are intact....They just rattle a little at
idle.  I'd recommend these to anyone.  You have to cut holes in the ends of
your grips though.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) tire pressure
Date: 30 Mar 1999 08:53:27 EST

>Somebody correct me if I'm wrong (I haven't done offroad for years)
but at these pressures could tyre slippage on the rear rim be a
real risk, bearing in mind that the KLR doesn't use rim locks or
rim pins.


My  concerns as well. I have blasted the tube stem in prior years by dropping
air pressure too low. In the old days I ran my trials bike with 4-7 lbs but
had to use two rim locks to keep from blowing tubes.

Erik.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Circuit Br
Date: 31 Mar 1999 04:45:39 -0700


|> Seems to me
|> there was a discussion awhile back on some resettable circuit breakers
|> dose anyone know off hand where you can get them, part #, and what size
|> you need.
|>>>>> snip
|
|Got mine at Pep Boys for 3.99 each
|Same amperage as stock, but you have to replace the stock 3AG type
|fuseholders with blade type fuseholders (also available at Pep Boys for
|2.49 each).
|
|It works for me!


These are the breakers that auto reset right? Does anyone know what the recycle time is? I'm
thinking we need to find breakers designed specifically for headlight circuits (20 amps) that
fail by causing the circuit to rapidly flash so as to not "emit" darkness (g)...especially for
those of us trying to watch our amps to keep warm and not put on extra lights...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) False Neutrals
Date: 31 Mar 1999 04:47:39 -0700


|Yep!  I found a neutral between 3rd  and 4th one day while lesisurely
|shifting in the neighborhood.  I had to really stomp on the shifter to get
|it to go into a gear.  This happened to me at about 150 miles on my new
|A13.  No BFD though.  Didn't get the neurtal light either! - (dah)


three days ago I got a false neutral with the light while parking...let the clutch out while
getting off the bike and did one of those numbers where you take a look around to see if anyone
was watching (g)...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Rear wheel friction
Date: 31 Mar 1999 06:08:12 -0800 (PST)

--- [e-mail] wrote:
> Juan, at first, you gave the impression that
> your brake was the problem. Now
> it sounds like you have not put a spacer in or
> put one in the wrong place.
> With everything proper, you will have spacers
> against inner bearing races and
> no matter how tight you cinch down the nut,
> there should be no effect on the
> wheel turning, except for a little brake drag.
> good luck, frank

Excellent point Frank.  I'm starting to think we
might be zeroing in on the problem (knock on
wood).  The next thing I want to confirm is the
number and location of the rear wheel spacers.  To
my knowledge I remember putting an aluminum cap
over the bearings on the rotor side of the wheel.
The other side just has the sprocket, with nothing
coming between it and the swingarm.  Am I okay so
far?  One thing worth noting is the fact that I
put generous amounts of axle grease on both hubs
prior to re-installing the wheel (including under
the cap).  Jake in Jacksonville has stated that
fresh grease can initially provide a little
resistance.  It only follows that an excessive
quantity of grease UNDER the hub might increase
the "width" of the wheel, causing more problems.
Man I can't wait to get home now and clean out
some of that extra grease.  Let me know what you
think and I'll keep all of you posted.  Thanks for
info, encouragement, and support thus far.

Juan Villarreal

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR- May Rider Magazine
Date: 31 Mar 1999 06:18:35 -0800 (PST)

> Is Rider commonly available...like at Barnes &
> Noble...or is it more like MCN?
>
> Kurt

I don't know for sure Kurt.  I don't ever recall
seeing it at the big places.  "I read my first
Rider" at (of all places) the base exchange.
They're notorious for their lack of selection,
especially overseas.  Whenever you (or anyone)
else find one though, make sure it has a
subscription card in it.  It's one great mag!
Later...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) busted....
Date: 31 Mar 1999 07:29:16 -0700



|Hey listers:
|Had a graceful crunch the other day and broke the choke lever and the left
|rear signal light housing.  Any recommendations for a new choke level with a
|little more beef.  Also I can't figure out how to remove the plastic light
|housing and socket without removing the gear rack or cutting the wires.
|
|E~ in Oregon, KLR98


Fred has choke levers...the lights disconnect (don't cut them!) underneath the seat....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cheap plastic waterproof panniers
Date: 31 Mar 1999 09:32:16 EST

I saw those panniers at Sam's last night too. Come in nearly the same color as
the newer KLR's for $14.99 a piece. Wow!. Did anybody post how to mount them
as saddlebags or tank panniers yet?

Bill S.
A12 "Moose"
Montgomery, IL.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Maier Woods Pro Handguards
Date: 31 Mar 1999 06:42:04 -0800 (PST)

Brian Bonenfant asked:

>Why the change ? What happened to the
>Acerbis RG ?

Out with the old, in with the new...  I just liked
the (much) beefier design.  I'm not too big on
performance but protection, durability, and safety
are everything to me.  It's all part of my grand
design to built the master Teutonic-Aryan KLR (uh,
that is once I get my rear wheel re-installed
properly).  The old guards will be kept as a
backup for at least a little while.  Take care...


Juan Villarreal , '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Marvel Mystery
Date: 31 Mar 1999 09:45:40 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 3:22:49 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I've noticed that the oil I put in, Valvoline Premium Blue 15w-40, shifts
 just as well as the Castrol Syntec did, which was my primary reason for
 going to the synthetic, and synthetic blend oils in the first place.  My
 clutch doesn't seem to slip as bad either.  >>
Jeff, I don't think that any person can show a motor that wore out prematurely
due to the use of any specific brand of oil. I think the wrong viscosity for a
particular motor may be a problem, but any of todays popular oils will keep
our bikes running a long time.
I would run MMO for one oil change interval and expect it to use oil. Its
detergent qualities require consumption. If it doesn't work then possibly the
ring carbon was not an issue. It might be a good idea to run a compression
test and then squirt some oil into the plug hole and test again. You will then
know if is rings or valve guides. The MMO may even clean carbon off the valve
guides and seals, who knows?  Keep us posted. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Marvel Mystery
Date: 31 Mar 1999 09:53:43 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 3:36:45 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<  I'm starting to think, especially with the
 low cost of the Valvoline oil, that I'll just continue to add oil and ride
 for as long as the engine runs reliably and doesn't blow a ton of smoke.
  >>
Jeff,  is your bike puking out black smoke or blue haze? The black smoke is
from too rich a mixture which can dilute the oil and may result in abnormal
consumption, but with a black soot from richness. Blue smoke is burning oil
and that can be rings if it smokes more under hard use. Bad valve guides and
seals will cause blue smoke while cold, but will usually clear up as the
engine warms up. You can always tell bad guides/seals because the oil seaps
down around the valve stems into the cylinder and the bike smokes more for a
short time while it burns off the excess oil, then clears up. It seems like
ring wear induced oil consumption doesn't get better with a hot motor, maybe
worse. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) False Neutrals
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:00:08 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 5:49:21 AM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< three days ago I got a false neutral with the light while parking...let the
clutch out while
 getting off the bike and did one of those numbers where you take a look
around to see if anyone
 was watching (g)...
  >>
Kurt, sounds like slipping the clutch out a little to verify real neutral may
be a good habit. usually, stomping the lever will only round off the shift
shaft pawls or worse bend a sliding shift fork. Clutch slipping to verify
while "nudging" the shift lever will help get in the correct gear shift
pattern. I think that checking the tightness of the shift lever pinch clamp is
really important on a thumper  as well as correct drive chain tension which
allows the shift forks and sliding gears to mess properly rather than the
jerking caused by sloppy chain tension. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR- May Rider Magazine
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:10:34 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 8:18:39 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Is Rider commonly available...like at Barnes &
 > Noble...or is it more like MCN? >>
Our Borders carry Rider! frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Rear wheel friction
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:09:39 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 8:11:35 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Thanks for
 info, encouragement, and support thus far. >>
Juan, you didn't say if you removed the bearings? If the bearings were
removed, its possible that they didnt get seated far enouhg in there machined
space in the hub. there is also a spacer in the middle of the hub between the
two bearings in the hub. I've known that to be left out. There is a cobination
dust cap/spacer on one side over a bearing and a spacer between the bearings
of the hub and the drive flange and a spacer on the other end. You should have
spacer-bearing-spacer-bearing-spacer-bearing and a chain adjuster on both
sides. hope this helps, frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR-Maier Woods Pro Handguards
Date: 31 Mar 1999 07:14:50 -0800 (PST)

> I've never seen these (Maier Woods Pro) guards.
How would you
> compare them to the aluminum
> MSR guards that also can have a plastic spoiler
> attached to them?
>
> Arne

I don't know Arne, as I've never gotten an
up-close view of the MSR guards.  One lister
awhile back said they were basically the same
though in terms of strength and design (the same
goes for the Acerbis Rally Pros).  What swayed me
to the Woods Pro model was the exaggerated bend,
designed to provide plenty of clearance for the
levers and their movement.  I think I'm going to
be very happy with them.  Cheers...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR
"The Happy Hooligan"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Randy Golla" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) tranny
Date: 31 Mar 1999 07:22:23 PST

I've found the magical second nuetral between 3rd and 4th on a few
occasions. Although it catches you by suprise at times its nothing
serious to worry about. it does mostly happen when I'm just leasurly
shifting. My cure is to be a little more demanding when I shift. putting
a little more muscle behind the lever. Grab each gear like you want it
and you won't have a problem.

Randy
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Ingram" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Vent air box?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 08:19:23 -0700

I have been reading messages on the list for a few weeks now, and have
picked up some valuable information.  Thank you to everyone.  I have seen
references to venting the air box, but would appreciate some details.  One
message dealt with using a heated copper pipe coupling to create 1" holes in
the air box, and then using something called a "unifilter" to cover these
holes.  Any further information would be appreciated.  Also, can someone
point me to a source for these "Unifilters"?

Tom Ingram
Montrose, CO
1992 KLR650




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Vent air box?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 08:36:03 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>I have been reading messages on the list for a few weeks now, and have
>picked up some valuable information.  Thank you to everyone.  I have seen
>references to venting the air box, but would appreciate some details.  One
>message dealt with using a heated copper pipe coupling to create 1" holes
in
>the air box, and then using something called a "unifilter" to cover these
>holes.  Any further information would be appreciated.  Also, can someone
>point me to a source for these "Unifilters"?
>
>Tom Ingram
>Montrose, CO
>1992 KLR650
>
>
>

Hi Tom,

The Unifilter filter vents are plastic framed foam filters that snap into a
hole you cut in your air box to let in more air into your main air filter.
I sell them in quantities of 4 or 6.  I think they are $6 and $8.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #206
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:25:52 EST

In a message dated 3/30/99 9:08:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

> when I tighten the
>  axle nut the wheel becomes absolutely immobile.

I had this same problem. Turned out that one of the rear brake pads had gotten
turned slightly in the caliper. This caused the pad to be fixed in place
(could not retract). I finally had to remove the caliper (just two screws not
the line) ,then mount the rear wheel and then reinstall the caliper being
careful to keep the pads properly aligned. Since doing this at the first wheel
removal I have not had any further problems at subsequent wheel removals.

Gary
Fresno



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Muffler Guard
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:34:10 EST

Just installed the new DualStar muffler guard on a Supertrapp IDS muffler,
works well with my RKA bags keeps them off of the muffler without adding alot
of weight, simple design quality material, lot better than the Kawasaki guard.
Also changed over to their locking axle nuts, tired of dragging weeds around
with the cotter pins.  Remember it's tick season for us Southern Boys, brought
home more of them yesterday than the dog did.

Larry (tickless once again)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Cheap plastic waterproof panniers
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:26:46 EST

They have them at Academy Sporting Goods for $9.88 a pair.  Looks easy to
mount I would use a backing plate on the inside.

Larry



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Vent air box?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 08:52:26 -0700




>I have been reading messages on the list for a few weeks now, and have
>picked up some valuable information.  Thank you to everyone.  I have seen
>references to venting the air box, but would appreciate some details.  One
>message dealt with using a heated copper pipe coupling to create 1" holes in
>the air box, and then using something called a "unifilter" to cover these
>holes.  Any further information would be appreciated.  Also, can someone
>point me to a source for these "Unifilters"?


yeah, that seems like a good idea with coupling...best get the filters first and then get a
coupling that matches the size for a tight snap fit...I vented the top of the box only, had to
remove the airbox to do it and managed 12 1" filters and probably could have gotten 2 more in
with careful planning...getting the airbox out is not fun...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) KLR parts
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:47:24 EST

Anyone have a spare (parting out a bike?) helmet lock? I ripped mine off on my
first fall along with the shift lever, turn signal and clutch lever. Haven't
missed it until recently. I seem to be doing more social riding. Ride, eat,
ride, eat etc. My lock cylinder is still good just the housing is destroyed.
Please respond off list.

Gary
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Spring Industry Annoucements...
Date: 31 Mar 1999 09:08:17 -0700

here they come, hold on...this from an email exchange with Robert Moffet, Dual Sport Marketing
Director, Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd.:

>Good to hear from you again, Kurt. Yes, I was aware of BMW's aggressive financing plan on the
F-650
>and there marketing to female riders. I agree with you that the KLR continues to match up well
in this market segment.
>This may interest you. Starting in mid-May we are going to introduce the KLR650 AT (Adventure
Touring). Basically the same bike, but
>comes standard with Hepco-Becker racks, Touratech Aluminum Panniers, Kawasaki Tank Bag,
Touratech GPS mount, Garmin GPS III+
>with MapSource CD-ROM, Corbin seat, and a Gift Certificate worth $1,000 for Aerostich Rider
Warehouse.  Out the door price on this
>model will be somewhere around $7,500...still less than the stock F-650 with no options. We'll
just have to see if it makes a dent.
>
>Say hello to Gino for me...

>Bob




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: West Hovland <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Civil wars
Date: 31 Mar 1999 08:39:41 -0800



Juan Villarreal wrote:

> "No offense to you from CA, but I hate your
> state."
>
> Oh sure Jeff, I'm not betting on anyone from
> California taking offense to that statement.  Now
> if you would allow me to get under a table before
> the fur starts flying...
>

Just wanted to point out that Oregon and Washington are terrible places to live
as well. It rains 366 days a year, rarely gets above 50 degrees, allergies are
terrible, suicide rates through the roof... man! I'm doing you all a favor when
I plead with all you folks to stay put in that wonderful state of California.
Things are really bad here in Cascadia!

West in Oregon (tongue planted in cheek)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: " Skip Faulkner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Moab Posse
Date: 31 Mar 1999 09:47:39 -0700

List,
  Just checking to see if anyone from the Northwest wants to partner up for
Moab. Either meet in-route or whatever. We will be camping along the way and
may take some back routes, depending on weather and time. So far we plan on
leaving May 31 or June 1.
   If you`re on a KLR650 like me, we may have to hold back a little because
my wife will be on an F650 and another buddy on his KTM.

Skip





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Spring Industry Annoucements...
Date: 31 Mar 1999 09:38:17 -0800

Kurt,

Is this for real?  Or are you just getting your April's fools gag in
early???..=)

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>here they come, hold on...this from an email exchange with Robert Moffet,
Dual Sport Marketing
>Director, Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd.:
>
>>Good to hear from you again, Kurt. Yes, I was aware of BMW's aggressive
financing plan on the
>F-650
>>and there marketing to female riders. I agree with you that the KLR
continues to match up well
>in this market segment.
>>This may interest you. Starting in mid-May we are going to introduce the
KLR650 AT (Adventure
>Touring). Basically the same bike, but
>>comes standard with Hepco-Becker racks, Touratech Aluminum Panniers,
Kawasaki Tank Bag,
>Touratech GPS mount, Garmin GPS III+
>>with MapSource CD-ROM, Corbin seat, and a Gift Certificate worth $1,000
for Aerostich Rider
>Warehouse.  Out the door price on this
>>model will be somewhere around $7,500...still less than the stock F-650
with no options. We'll
>just have to see if it makes a dent.
>>
>>Say hello to Gino for me...
>
>>Bob
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mark)
Subject: very NKLR Re: (klr650) What???
Date: 31 Mar 1999 11:53:00 -0500

Randy Wrote:
>
>Sounds a little painful to me are you sure that sawing them off is
>totally necassary in order to gain full protection. Is there something
>else a guy could do?

Wear a cup.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Spring Industry Annoucements...
Date: 31 Mar 1999 09:59:06 -0700

Struth!...

-----Original Message-----


>Kurt,
>
>Is this for real?  Or are you just getting your April's fools gag in
>early???..=)
>
>Cheers,
>
>Vik
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
>To: KLR List <[e-mail]>
>Date: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 8:08 AM
>Subject: (klr650) Spring Industry Annoucements...
>
>
>>here they come, hold on...this from an email exchange with Robert Moffet,
>Dual Sport Marketing
>>Director, Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd.:
>>
>>>Good to hear from you again, Kurt. Yes, I was aware of BMW's aggressive
>financing plan on the
>>F-650
>>>and there marketing to female riders. I agree with you that the KLR
>continues to match up well
>>in this market segment.
>>>This may interest you. Starting in mid-May we are going to introduce the
>KLR650 AT (Adventure
>>Touring). Basically the same bike, but
>>>comes standard with Hepco-Becker racks, Touratech Aluminum Panniers,
>Kawasaki Tank Bag,
>>Touratech GPS mount, Garmin GPS III+
>>>with MapSource CD-ROM, Corbin seat, and a Gift Certificate worth $1,000
>for Aerostich Rider
>>Warehouse.  Out the door price on this
>>>model will be somewhere around $7,500...still less than the stock F-650
>with no options. We'll
>>just have to see if it makes a dent.
>>>
>>>Say hello to Gino for me...
>>
>>>Bob
>>
>>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) busted....
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:04:24 -0700


    Either beefier or more pliant. MSR & Sunline claim they're more
bendable thus stronger than stock. Any experience with these or any others?
Bogdan, Who falls down so much he's considering buying a walker.


    Any recommendations for a new choke level with a
    little more beef.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Spring Industry Annoucements...
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:10:09 -0800

Kurt,

I e-mailed a friend at Rider magazine and he has heard rumblings about
similar package ( I am shocked), but he thinks that May is way too
optimistic to actually see the bikes sold in that format (not the first time
a major corp has been overly optimistic on a product release date) - he was
suggesting August.

And apparently the reason for such a dramatic offering from Kawi (notice the
Kawi rep didn't mention this) is that BMW will be offering a limited edition
PD replica F650.  He didn't have all the goods on it, but apparently it has
suspension upgrades, larger fuel tank, but the engine will not be putting
out 75hp.  I think Kawi is just trying to steal some of BMW's thunder.

Did Robert Moffet mention any option to just purchase the option package for
us loyal KLRistas that already have a KLR??

Anyone with BMW contacts can you get some more info on the replica F650???

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>Struth!...
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vik Banerjee <[e-mail]>
>To: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>; KLR List <[e-mail]>
>Date: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 9:47 AM
>Subject: Re: (klr650) Spring Industry Annoucements...
>
>
>>Kurt,
>>
>>Is this for real?  Or are you just getting your April's fools gag in
>>early???..=)
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>Vik
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
>>To: KLR List <[e-mail]>
>>Date: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 8:08 AM
>>Subject: (klr650) Spring Industry Annoucements...
>>
>>
>>>here they come, hold on...this from an email exchange with Robert Moffet,
>>Dual Sport Marketing
>>>Director, Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd.:
>>>
>>>>Good to hear from you again, Kurt. Yes, I was aware of BMW's aggressive
>>financing plan on the
>>>F-650
>>>>and there marketing to female riders. I agree with you that the KLR
>>continues to match up well
>>>in this market segment.
>>>>This may interest you. Starting in mid-May we are going to introduce the
>>KLR650 AT (Adventure
>>>Touring). Basically the same bike, but
>>>>comes standard with Hepco-Becker racks, Touratech Aluminum Panniers,
>>Kawasaki Tank Bag,
>>>Touratech GPS mount, Garmin GPS III+
>>>>with MapSource CD-ROM, Corbin seat, and a Gift Certificate worth $1,000
>>for Aerostich Rider
>>>Warehouse.  Out the door price on this
>>>>model will be somewhere around $7,500...still less than the stock F-650
>>with no options. We'll
>>>just have to see if it makes a dent.
>>>>
>>>>Say hello to Gino for me...
>>>
>>>>Bob
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) busted....
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:23:59 -0700


-----Original Message-----
'[e-mail]' <[e-mail]>



>>Either beefier or more pliant. MSR & Sunline claim they're more
bendable thus stronger than stock. Any experience with these or any others?
Bogdan, Who falls down so much he's considering buying a walker.<<


Hey Bogdan,

I haven't had good luck with Sunline levers.  They seem to break about as
easy as the cheap stuff.  The good news is that the MSR levers are really
nice and I use them on my XR.  The bad news is that MSR doesn't make levers
for the KLR


I can either sell you some training wheels for your second problem or lay
off the booze!  :<\

Fred
.






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Spring Industry Annoucements...
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:24:51 -0700

>>Anyone with BMW contacts can you get some more info on the replica F650???

Yep, but it ain't going to be an F650. My BMW NA source has been feeding me
small tidbits of info and think everyone is going to be floored in the next
couple of days.  I also have been talking with a Yamaha rep who pretty sure
that Yamaha is going to try to steal some BMW thunder, so the next few days
ought to be very interesting for the dual sport world.

Gino, editor, Dual Sport News.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Vent air box?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 09:25:30 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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    Can I ask why only the top of the box ?? I installed 6 uni's and I put three on the left side
under the side panel one on top and two into the trap door.. I realize water could be an issue
however the locations I choose seems to be somewhat out of harms way, or is there another reason
for top box location.... appreciate your info...

regards,
Brian    -

PS thanks for forwarding the message from Robert Moffet seems cool that they are looking at
opening up the market of this bike a bit.. think a loaded KLR will sell for $7500 ??

Kurt Simpson wrote:

> I vented the top of the box only, had to remove the airbox to do it and managed 12 1" filters
> and probably could have gotten 2 more in with careful planning...getting the airbox out is not
> fun...
>
> Kurt

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Vent air box?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 10:34:37 -0700



>    Can I ask why only the top of the box ?? I installed 6 uni's and I put three on the left
side
>under the side panel one on top and two into the trap door.. I realize water could be an issue
>however the locations I choose seems to be somewhat out of harms way, or is there another
reason
>for top box location.... appreciate your info...


entirely personal, I wanted them high and inconspicous...






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Moody <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Re: Circuit Br
Date: 31 Mar 1999 12:44:27 -0500

Not sure of reset time.  I'll set them up on the test bench tonight and
see.

--
Bryan Moody
Greensboro, NC
86 Concours, 94 KLR650
COG Southeast Area Director http://www.concours.org/se

IBA: BBG, CCC Gold



Kurt Simpson wrote:
>
> |> Seems to me
> |> there was a discussion awhile back on some resettable circuit breakers
> |> dose anyone know off hand where you can get them, part #, and what size
> |> you need.
> |>>>>> snip
> |
> |Got mine at Pep Boys for 3.99 each
> |Same amperage as stock, but you have to replace the stock 3AG type
> |fuseholders with blade type fuseholders (also available at Pep Boys for
> |2.49 each).
> |
> |It works for me!
>
> These are the breakers that auto reset right? Does anyone know what the recycle time is? I'm
> thinking we need to find breakers designed specifically for headlight circuits (20 amps) that
> fail by causing the circuit to rapidly flash so as to not "emit" darkness (g)...especially for
> those of us trying to watch our amps to keep warm and not put on extra lights...
>
> Kurt



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Vent air box?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 13:12:29 -0500

I installed six Uni's on the access cover to the air box. I then found a
spare, undrilled cover at a local salvage yard that I carry in my tank
bag. If I'm riding in torrential downpours or in areas with deep water
crossings, the "hole-y' one comes off in a snap from under the side
cover and the stock one goes right back in just as easy. Two minutes
and  total cost: $3.50 (not including the Uni's of course). I'm not sure
what Kaw charges for replacement covers but it can't be much...come on,
it's only a piece of plastic, right? :~>

Jake



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.Taylor" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Spring Industry Annoucements...
Date: 31 Mar 1999 14:26:40 -0500

Unh huh! Yep, that'll happen in my lifetime. Amalgamated Conglomorated
Heavy Industries, INC, LLC, PDC, BDC, TLC, PA is listening and willing
to respond to what you and I want in what is by far the slug seller of
their product line. They sold more KE 100's last year to the RV crowd
than they did KLR's for the last two years. Bet Andy Goldfine is just
tickled,... by his wife or children. At least last year we had pictures
of the proposed replacement.... I suspect they'll dedicate advertising
funds to ensure all of us Speedvision viewers get an eye full like they
have been with the Drifter.

Jake, the "skeptique". BTW www.warez.com has a neat little phantom email
program that would make these spring announcements more realistic. Makes
the email look like it actually came from the company.


> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
> >To: KLR List <[e-mail]>
> >Date: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 8:08 AM
> >Subject: (klr650) Spring Industry Annoucements...
> >
> >
> >>here they come, hold on...this from an email exchange with Robert Moffet,
> >Dual Sport Marketing
> >>Director, Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd.:
> >>
> >>>Good to hear from you again, Kurt. Yes, I was aware of BMW's aggressive
> >financing plan on the
> >>F-650
> >>>and there marketing to female riders. I agree with you that the KLR
> >continues to match up well
> >>in this market segment.
> >>>This may interest you. Starting in mid-May we are going to introduce the
> >KLR650 AT (Adventure
> >>Touring). Basically the same bike, but
> >>>comes standard with Hepco-Becker racks, Touratech Aluminum Panniers,
> >Kawasaki Tank Bag,
> >>Touratech GPS mount, Garmin GPS III+
> >>>with MapSource CD-ROM, Corbin seat, and a Gift Certificate worth $1,000
> >for Aerostich Rider
> >>Warehouse.  Out the door price on this
> >>>model will be somewhere around $7,500...still less than the stock F-650
> >with no options. We'll
> >>just have to see if it makes a dent.
> >>>
> >>>Say hello to Gino for me...
> >>
> >>>Bob
> >>
> >>
> >
> >



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Preferred Customer" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Wheelies and Stuff
Date: 31 Mar 1999 14:47:25 -0500


-----Original Message-----


>    My question to the wheelie riders:  What is the trick to
>    getting more distance out of whatever gear I'm walking (riding a
>    wheelie) in?

Ya gotta bring it up to the balance point.  Then just blip it and you can
ride until you run out of gas (or oil in the top end).

>  How high can you get the wheel up and still feel
>  comfortable?


Domokos and Rothwell can get em back to where they were/are bustin up the
tail lights on KZ1000's and VMax's.  The balance point is different for each
rider/bike combination.  Going past it still leaves lots of time and room
for recovery (well, "lots" relatively speaking).  My old bike useta balance
kinda high so I put two sided carpet tape all on the seat to minimize
sliding with those cordura pants (and I wondered why I got tickets on that
bike).  If you want to ride em, you gotta get the bike up there - and then
use gas and engine compression (or rear brake if you're in higher gears) to
constantly adjust around the balance point.  BTW, I took my little kid to
the circus the other day, but I still say that Gary Rothwell at the FUSA
events is still the greatest show on earth!  He wheelies his GSXR straight
up while he's sitting on the handlebars - aint no rear brake saves there!
He also wheelies at well over a hundred miles per hour, which has its own
special set of issues to contend with.

BG







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) speed recommendation for 5th gear?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 21:15:14 +0000

> Tachs are nice to have but not a necessity.  You can still use the speedo.
> All XRs don't even have a speedo.  I don't even miss it.

I've recently gotten to know the KLR quite well without a tach, but I think it
might still be nice to have. One wierd thing. While I was driving down to Baja,
we kept up a pretty constant speed of 70-80 for long stretches. Now it seems
like I have to be going at least 65 to get the bike happy enough to try 5th
gear. Any slower, and it's goes basso profundo engine noise wise and just
generally sounds unhappy until I'm up pretty high. Is this normal and previous
behavior was wierd? or vice versa? Still can't give you any idea of the revs
I'm at. (Fred and I are working on the tach thing off list - I'll post when
it's solved.) As far as I know, the sprockets are stock. (I'll try to count the
teeth tonight if I don't have to work too late.)

Sarah


--
Sarah Barwig
Developer
WeddingChannel.com
[phone]
888 S. Figueroa St., Suite 700
Los Angeles, CA, 90017






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pippo Nicotera <[e-mail]>
Date: 31 Mar 1999 22:17:50 +0100

Warning: This is a message in MIME format. Your mail reader does not
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To see the rest, you will need to upgrade your mail reader. Following are
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Hello'
Best regards from Pippo in Italy.
--
Anyone can make mistakes, but only an idiot persists in his error.
-- Cicero


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\sectd\pard\plain\colsx270\marglsxn720\margtsxn720\margrsxn720
\margbsxn720\pgnstarts1\pgndec
\ri44\sl240\slmult1\hyphpar
\b\f0\fs24\strike0\ulnone\nosupersub
PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS A SOLICITATION OF A PREVIOUS ORDER, *\strike0
\ul
NOT A NEW ONE!*\par
\b0\strike0\ulnone
I've sent you my order 10 days ago and I asked for a confirmation by FA
X or E-MAIL... Since  I didn't receive any confirmation so far, I suspe
ct my FAX didn't get to you and I send it again... but please, don' t s
end me the following items TWO TIMES, of course!!! I'll wait for a conf
irmation (Fax or e-mail)!\par
\b
\par
\tab   \b
\tab From: \tab Giuseppe Nicotera\par
\pard\li720\ri44\fi-720\sl240\slmult1\hyphpar
\tx720\tab 24845 Corbit Place\tab\b0
\tab   \b
\tab\tab\tab c/o Mrs. Romana Demonte\par
\tab Yorba Linda, CA 92887\tab\tab\tab\b0
\tab   \b
\tab 1709 West 5th Street\par
\tab U.S.A.\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab\b0
\tab   \b
\tab Brooklyn, NY 11223\par
\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab\b0
\tab   \b
\tab U.S.A.\par
\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab\b0
\tab   \tab Fax   :++39-80-4745130 (Italy)\par
\pard\sl240\slmult1\hyphpar
\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab   \tab Tel.   :++39-80-4742899 (Italy)\par
[e-mail]\tab\par
\ri44
\b
\par
ectric Starter\par
\qj
\b0
\par
Estimated White Bros, thank you very much for your fax dated 07/07/98 (
TNX Mr. Jeff Bueno) about parts for my Kawa KLR 600... here is my order
... please send me:\par
\par
\b
W.B. Part #\b0
\tab   \b
\tab Description\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab\b0
\tab   \b
Quantity\tab Price\par
\pard\li720\ri44\fi-720\qj\sl240\slmult1\hyphpar
\tx720\b0
19-2144\tab   \tab Recalibration Dynojet Kit for  1990 KLR600  \tab
    1\tab\tab   60 $\par
????????\tab   \tab Your OFF-ROAD Catalog\tab\tab\tab   \tab        1
\tab\tab     9 $\par
????????\tab   \tab Your Street/Special Catalog\tab   \tab\tab        1
\tab\tab     6 $\par
\par
\pard\ri44\qj\sl240\slmult1\hyphpar
\tx0 Also, \b
I need a K&N Filter for the same Bike\b0
... Unfortunately, I don't have the White Bros. Part #, but the Filter
Identification should be as follows:\par
\par
\b
K&N Part #\b0
\tab   \b
\tab Description\tab\tab\tab\tab\tab Quantity\tab Price\par
\pard\li720\ri44\fi-720\qj\sl240\slmult1\hyphpar
\tx720\b0
KA 6589\tab   \tab Stock Airbox Air Filter for KLR600/650\tab        1
\b
\tab\b0
\tab Around 40 $\par
\qc
\b
OR, *ONLY* if you don't have the previous item, try with the following
one:\par
\qj
\b0
KA 0008\tab   \tab Stock Airbox Air Filter for KLR250\tab\tab        1
\tab\tab Around 30 $ (K&N)\par
\par
\b
DON'T SEND ME BOTH, of course, and if you have ONE of the K&N filters,
send me also:\par
\b0
99-5000\tab\tab K&N Recharger Kit\tab\tab\tab\tab        1\tab\tab  10.
59 $\par
\par
\b
If you haven't any of the K&N Filters, send me *ONLY* the Recalib. Dyno
jet Kit & Catalogs!!!\par
\b0
\par
\pard\ri44\qj\sl240\slmult1\hyphpar
\tx0 Forgive me, I know it's not very straight-forward... Anyway, send
me the items you've got and, \b
*PLEASE*, send me a FAX or an e-mail, telling me *WHAT* you have shippe
d and confirming the shipment\b0
. \b
The shipment address will be as in the letterhead even if my home addre
ss is in Italy.  Note that one of my relatives will receive the package
 on my behalf while he' ll be in the U.S.A. from 12/07/98 to 10/08/98..
. Please arrange the shipment according to these dates. \b0
The payment will be made through my VISA Credit Card.(No.4935 1600 0078
 5869) Exp. Date 03/00 (Means Year 2000, of course!). O.K. I think it's
 enough for now...  Thank You in advance and I look forward to receive
an answer from your side as soon as possible!!!\par
\tab   \tab   \tab   \tab   \tab   \tab   \tab\b
  \tab Best regards... \fs32
Giuseppe Nicotera\par
}
--BOUNDARY.21782872.2--





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juan Villarreal <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Success!
Date: 31 Mar 1999 13:40:54 -0800 (PST)

Well Gary of Fresno and Don Roger get the
allee-oop slam dunk award for the day.  I removed
the rear brake mechanism, re-installed it, and the
wheel spun free after that.  You guys are the
cat's pajamas!  I was starting to get a little
worried there you know...  But it's amazing what a
good nite's sleep and a few timely e-mails can do
for a project.  Thanks also to Jeff, Frank, and
Jake in Jacksonville (along with everyone else I'm
seeing through my Magic Lollipop) for giving me
all the other things to check out.

On to the next project...  I received my Helmet
Brake in today's mail.  It looks like a pretty
straight-forward setup.  What I need though is a
decription of the wires leading to the tail/brake
light. There are three of them; one red, one blue,
and one black with a yellow stripe.  If someone
will tell me which one is which I could very well
be off to the races after that.  Thanks in
advance...

Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR (the beer's on me!)
"The Grateful Hooligan"

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) speed recommendation for 5th gear?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 13:48:28 -0800

As I am in the process of breaking in my bike, I'm pretty aware at what's
happening at speed.  I don't seem to have any problem riding in 5th, under
4000 RPM, at 50 (80 KPH) - and I weigh 265 lbs.

Arne

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 1:15 PM


> > Tachs are nice to have but not a necessity.  You can still use the
speedo.
> > All XRs don't even have a speedo.  I don't even miss it.
>
> I've recently gotten to know the KLR quite well without a tach, but I
think it
> might still be nice to have. One wierd thing. While I was driving down to
Baja,
> we kept up a pretty constant speed of 70-80 for long stretches. Now it
seems
> like I have to be going at least 65 to get the bike happy enough to try
5th
> gear. Any slower, and it's goes basso profundo engine noise wise and just
> generally sounds unhappy until I'm up pretty high. Is this normal and
previous
> behavior was wierd? or vice versa? Still can't give you any idea of the
revs
> I'm at. (Fred and I are working on the tach thing off list - I'll post
when
> it's solved.) As far as I know, the sprockets are stock. (I'll try to
count the
> teeth tonight if I don't have to work too late.)
>
> Sarah
>
>
> --
> Sarah Barwig
> Developer
> WeddingChannel.com
> [phone]
> 888 S. Figueroa St., Suite 700
> Los Angeles, CA, 90017
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Way off topic
Date: 31 Mar 1999 21:50:17 +0000

Anyone know if I can rent a motorcycle in Milwaukee for a weekend? Got a
family reunion to go to last weekend in July, and it'd sure be nice to
be on 2 wheels whilst tooling between events. (As opposed to being stuck
in someone else's car going to antique stores.) I'm browsing the web,
and if I become a member of HOG, then I can rent a HOG, but I was hoping
to get something that might actually lean just a bit...

Sarah

--
Sarah Barwig
Developer
WeddingChannel.com
[phone]
888 S. Figueroa St., Suite 700
Los Angeles, CA, 90017






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Christmas in Canada
Date: 31 Mar 1999 13:56:20 -0800

Hey it was Christmas today.  Received a package in the mail today.  Even
with the wrong postal code (sorry Fred), it only took 11 days to arrive.
(K&N filter, re-charger kit, stainless oil filter, manuals, magnetic drain
plug, cool looking purple gel grips (with glue), MSR shift lever, and a W.B.
skid plate that looks absolutely bullet-proof.  Really nice welds too).

Thanks Fred,

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Christmas in Canada
Date: 31 Mar 1999 15:21:57 -0700



>Hey it was Christmas today.  Received a package in the mail today.

another sicko checks in...Christmas has been way early for me this year
too...Fred...humbug...my bank account looks like it has been raped and pillaged...thanks Fred,
thanks a bunch...(g)

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Givi's crashability
Date: 31 Mar 1999 14:43:42 PST

I'm struggling to choose between Givi hard bags and Tourtech spam cans
for my trip to S.A.  The Givi's appeal because of their more reasonable
price, lighter weight and I like the sizing better.  My major reservation
is about their ability to survive crashes.  Not that I expect to
crash, mind you, but in that part of the world I hear the ground can
sometimes just reach up and smack you when you least expect it.  So,
I'd like to hear any experiences others have had with the Givi's in
this regard.

Thanks, Marick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Way off topic
Date: 31 Mar 1999 15:17:50 -0700



>Anyone know if I can rent a motorcycle in Milwaukee for a weekend? Got a
>family reunion to go to last weekend in July, and it'd sure be nice to
>be on 2 wheels whilst tooling between events

sounds like a job for our representative from Beertown...Carlos...who is second only to Alice
Cooper in his knowledge of the ways of Milwaukee...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Tech
Date: 01 Apr 1999 09:05:25 +1000

Christopher J Beasley wrote:

> Well, it seems not much is going on technically with everybody else's KLRs.

Ah Grasshopper, still waters run deep.

[...]
> Thus my problem is that nobody on the list seems to have had trouble with their
> turn-signals failing, all out, and the diagnostics in the service manual fail to
> diagnose!  I need some help here before I have to pay the dealer.

KLR electrics are pretty reliable, generally.
About the last time I had any problems with my indicators was many
years ago when dealers used to service my bike. In my case, they
had reinstalled the flasher unit upside down, so that it filled
with water and rusted, causing a rather slow flash.
It was easily fixed with a new flasher installed correctly.

> Is it true that nobody has written up the KLR clutch yet?  If not, I'll do it in
> about a week.

The last time I had the clutch cover off my bike, I didn't see any
traps that the shop manual didn't mention.

> I'm gonna pull mine while installing the Kickstart (is THAT
> written up?  I don't think so!).

The 600 base manual shows a few pics and has a few words.
Let us know if the 650 kicker is significantly different.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Kickstart & Microfiche
Date: 01 Apr 1999 08:54:58 +1000

Bixby, Jeff wrote:
[...]
>         Also, has the discussion of putting the KLR parts fiche on CD-ROM
> ever come up? The Yamaha FJ list that I am on did this about a year ago and
> it certainly is handy! It is nice to have the factory part #s and the
> exploded views are convenient as well!

Not a bad idea if you want to prints from the fiche for yourself.
However, it's not very hard to buy a secondhand fiche reader.
I recently picked one up at a local secondhand office furniture shop,
so I could read the parts fiche for my Honda RC17.
This is handy if you have a number of bikes, just buying the fiche
for workshop manuals and parts lists saves a lot on the cost of
a few genuine manuals.

Bike companies are quite happy to sell off this info on fiche.
I tried to buy some parts fiche for my car and the counter jockey
looked at me as if I was some sort of industrial spy.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Gear Box
Date: 01 Apr 1999 08:46:34 +1000

John Smith wrote:

> I read a review of the KLR650 and it said there are problems with the
> gear box; specifically that there are multiple neutrals. Is this true?

My 600 has about 50,000 miles on it and the box is still very
good. I don't expect to touch it if/and/or/when my motor ever gets
redone.
The Kwak box may be a bit more notchy than a Suzuki box (any Suzuki..)
but it will last. It just doesn't appreciate half-hearted shifting.
>From dim and distant memory, the box took a while to free up from
new.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ted Palmer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Street Metzler tire pressure
Date: 01 Apr 1999 09:32:13 +1000

Andy Burton wrote:

> I am sure I am running 26F 29R for a normal load and 28F 32R for a heavy
> load.
>
> How do you rate your ME55: is it sticky and does it last?
> I was talked out of the ME55 in favour of the MEZ2.

I assume there is some price difference between the ME55 and MEZ2.
Is the MEZ2 standard KLR size? Is the MEZ2 a radial?
There's a ME55 and a ME55A. I think the ME55 is a bias-belted type
for heavier duty than the plain crossply ME55A.
I like the ME55A with its gradual slide/regrip, not vicious at all.

ME33/ME55A combo work nice on my 220kg RC17 as well.

Mister_T




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Rob Heywood <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Dudes!!
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:07:58 -0500

I just got back from a cruise on my new KLR. What a really nice machine
it is!!

The KLR is everything you want, minus everything you don't want.

It's simply fun to ride.

And, it only gets better with age!!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Patrice Robinet" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Givi's crashability
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:19:28 -0500

Marick,

I used the Givi bags for my trip to S.A. and decided I wouldn't use them
again.  Crash resistance is NOT a problem with the Givis though.  I laid my
bike down in Mexico going about 60 in a big bend and the bag on the left
side (where I fell) held up fine.  It was quite scuffed and the plastic even
melted in some places from the friction, but everything inside was intact
and I still use the same bag today.

The problem isn't with the material so much as the design.  It opens and
closes like a regular suitcase which means that a) you really have to take
it off the bike to get into it and b) you can never really make full use of
the entire space.  36 liters is a lot of space but you can never use it all
up because you can't stuff it like you can a top-opening 'spam pack' as you
so well put it.  The 'spam pack' is a bit heavier but you only need 2 good
size ones whereas with the Givi you definitely need three. What's more only
the 'spam packs' are truly waterproof.  The joint on the Givis is all around
so somehow H2O always seems to find a wee bit in!

Plus, I think the 'spam packs' just look cooler!!

Givis are fine for getting around town or going on a long weekend.  Fork out
the extra dollars and you won't regret being stingy like I was.

Patrice Robinet
Frenchman on Two Wheels
1998 KLR 650

-----Original Message-----
[mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Marick
Payton
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 5:44 PM


I'm struggling to choose between Givi hard bags and Tourtech spam cans
for my trip to S.A.  The Givi's appeal because of their more reasonable
price, lighter weight and I like the sizing better.  My major reservation
is about their ability to survive crashes.  Not that I expect to
crash, mind you, but in that part of the world I hear the ground can
sometimes just reach up and smack you when you least expect it.  So,
I'd like to hear any experiences others have had with the Givi's in
this regard.

Thanks, Marick




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Patrice Robinet" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Racks for my Givi bags?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:24:40 -0500

I have Givi bags that I want to mount to my new KLR (old one was stolen with
the racks on).

I wasn't too thrilled with the quality of the Five Stars racks I had then.
Does anybody else make racks for the KLR650 and the Givi bags?

I also need a rear plate to mount the third bag.

Who should I call?

If anybody is selling a set of used racks I would definitely be interested
BTW.

Patrice Robinet
Frenchman on Two Wheels
1998 KLR650


-----Original Message-----
[mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Ted Palmer
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 5:55 PM


Bixby, Jeff wrote:
[...]
>         Also, has the discussion of putting the KLR parts fiche on CD-ROM
> ever come up? The Yamaha FJ list that I am on did this about a year ago
and
> it certainly is handy! It is nice to have the factory part #s and the
> exploded views are convenient as well!

Not a bad idea if you want to prints from the fiche for yourself.
However, it's not very hard to buy a secondhand fiche reader.
I recently picked one up at a local secondhand office furniture shop,
so I could read the parts fiche for my Honda RC17.
This is handy if you have a number of bikes, just buying the fiche
for workshop manuals and parts lists saves a lot on the cost of
a few genuine manuals.

Bike companies are quite happy to sell off this info on fiche.
I tried to buy some parts fiche for my car and the counter jockey
looked at me as if I was some sort of industrial spy.

Mister_T





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sarah Barwig <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Givi's crashability
Date: 01 Apr 1999 00:21:42 +0000

> The problem isn't with the material so much as the design.  It opens and
> closes like a regular suitcase which means that a) you really have to take
> it off the bike to get into it

hmm. seems much like the "standard" bmw cases i saw on my travel mates bikes.
They had rigged up a strap system. Basically there was an additional strap
holding the bag shut while they traveled. 3/4" or maybe 1" webbing with a metal
closure that's fairly easily adjustable (alligator style?) Then, when they
wanted to open the case, they would hit the clip thus opening the loop up a
useful length, open the bag, and presto, it would be held open enough for them
to get in and use stuff inside, and it wouldn't completely fall open leaving
their stuff on the road and they weren't using one hand to hold the bag. As to
using the full space, I dunno 'bout that. but it seems like the side opening
shouldn't be the main reason you spend the big bucks.

But then again, I've never used either, disclaimer, disclaimer.


--
Sarah Barwig
Developer
WeddingChannel.com
[phone]
888 S. Figueroa St., Suite 700
Los Angeles, CA, 90017






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) NKLR Trailer wiring?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 17:02:03 -0800

Hello,

Does anyone know if there is a 'standard' for the wiring of a 'flat-four'
trailer connector?  If so, can you describe it?

Thanks,

Tom

+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Vic DeFilippis <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Novice's inquiry
Date: 31 Mar 1999 17:06:03 -0800

Hi,

I just bought a 1998 KLR650 (near mint, 650 miles, 4 mos. left on warranty,
$3200; was this a fair price or did I get ripped off?) and knowing next to
nothing about motorcycle repair and/or maintenance I could use some advice.
 I apologize in advance if these are stupid, way too frequent, or otherwise
annoying questions.  I did a (semi-thorough) search of the mailing list
'back issues' for most of this stuff which helped but actually left me with
more questions.

1) Now I have about 800 miles on it but haven't performed any maintenance.
Looking at past messages on 500 mile maintenance really freaked me out.
How significant is the risk of voiding the warranty if I want to do some of
the work myself?  I mean, a valve clearance check is one thing but I don't
want to shell out money for some guy to change the oil and check the tire
pressure...

2) Should I just immediately stop riding it until I get 500 mile service
done on it?  Is it going to mess something up if I do?

3) As already mentioned I know very little about maintaining/repairing my
KLR (unfortunately).  More importantly I don't want to be dependent on a
dealer for every little thing.  I'm more than willing to learn everything
so is there a reference out there anyone can suggest that provides good
maintenance information that can be understood by a dope like me?  I'd ask
someone for help but I don't even know anyone who owns a motorcycle let
alone a KLR.  (Yes, I have the owner's manual but as you know it's
practically a brochure)

3) Can I firm up the rear shock myself or is that too complex for one
motorcycle-inept person to do by himself? (I'm about 190 lbs. and it seems
way too mushy for me right now)

4) I already had a damn flat rear tire (factory tires).  That sucks
especially for someone who rides alone.  Is it possible that this is
related to the fact that these tires suck?  Should I just buy new ones
right now?  Please say no.  (I ride about 60:40 trails:pavement).

5) Is it true that you shouldn't load >20 lbs. on the back rack?  Seems a
little light to me...

Anyway, other than the fact that I'm a very inexperienced motorcyclist, a
major coward, and constantly worried that something about the way I ride is
going to damage the cycle, I like riding the KLR a lot.  Seems like a very
powerful bike that's easy to ride.

Any and all opinions and advive are welcome.  Thanks in advance to all who
reply.

-Vic



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) RE:
Date: 31 Mar 1999 18:31:42 -0700


    A fool who persists in his folly will become wise. William Blake
    --
    Anyone can make mistakes, but only an idiot persists in his error.
    -- Cicero




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) speed recommendation for 5th gear?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 15:16:10 -0700

>Durn boys. I don't know what engine noise corresponds to your words. >I'll be counting those
teeth tonight.
>
LOL...

I can't imagine your gearing is high enough to be "laboring" in fifth at 60...so, it sounds
more like you might be do for a carb cleaning, or rejetting...to use some more words that
you'll love...it sounds like your engine is "bogging" from too much gas or "starving" from too
little....this is fun...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Doyle <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) I've fallen and I can't get up...
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:35:19 +0000

Juan Villarreal wrote:
>
> Fellow listers...
>
> Here's the situation:
>
> - Bike is currently in neutral and elevated on
> center stand.
>
> - Axle has been run through rear rim, chain
> tensioners and axle nut are still loose.
>
> - Chain shows plenty of slack (remember, the bike
> is elevated).
>
> My problem?  The wheel will not turn freely.  I
>

Juan,

Align the wheel and adjust the chain, tighten things up like normal and
see if it still does it. If it does then check to see if the friction is
continuous or intermittent.  Continuous means out of alignment with
something or something is in the wrong position.  Intermittent means the
rotating object is bent.

Jeff
A2



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J.P.Zucht" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) nklr - humor
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:45:13 -0600

A newcomer to Portland (or Seattle) arrives on a rainy day. She gets up
the next day and it's raining. It also rains the day after that, and the
day after that.

She goes out to lunch and sees a young kid and, out of despair, asks,
"Hey, kid, does it ever stop raining around here?"

The kid says,  "How  should I know?  I'm only 6."



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: John Smith <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) AWSOME !!!!
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:47:54 -0500

I just bought a new 1999 KLR650. Words cannot describe how I feel right
now. I put 20 miles on it this afternoon. Its everything I hoped for and
more. AWSOME !!!! : )

-Brian Shepard
  [e-mail]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #210
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:35:08 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 3:40:35 PM Pacific Standard Time, owner-
[e-mail] writes:

> Any slower, and it's goes basso profundo engine noise wise and just
>  generally sounds unhappy until I'm up pretty high. Is this normal and
> previous
>  behavior was wierd?

I experienced the same thing after chasing a couple of Triumphs around the
hills for a day. After all of the hard riding there seemed to be no power left
down low. I deceided this was just a false seat of the pants reading. After I
returned to "normal" riding for a while the bike seems to run exactly as
before. I think this is due the burst of power available from 5 grand to red
line. By the way I managed to embarass two Triumph riders.

Gary
Fresno



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Racks for my Givi bags?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:55:22 EST

Patrice, I think you have to buy GIVI mounts with rack. Cost is about $139. I
use GIVI on everything and love them, but there mounts system sometimes stick
out way too far, more than necessary many times. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Givi's crashability
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:59:24 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 6:31:35 PM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< But then again, I've never used either, disclaimer, disclaimer.
  >>
I've rented a BMW with the factory bags. They suck!. The exhaust side is
wallet size and they both have flimsy mounts and fall over all the time. The
only thing good about the BMW bags is that the bellhops can't figure out how
to pick them up without their falling down so they don't rush off with them
and that saves you tip money if things get tight. frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Trailer wiring?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 18:12:00 -0800

Yes, there is definately a standard.  If there weren't you would not be able
to plug into any old trailer, or convert it to a 5 or 7 pin.  Just a second,
let me check my truck................................. I'm back - pretty
quick eh!   White, black, yellow, green - with the white being opposite (in
the male/female sense) from the other three.  At least this is standard on
the '97 F150.

Arne

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 5:02 PM


> Hello,
>
> Does anyone know if there is a 'standard' for the wiring of a 'flat-four'
> trailer connector?  If so, can you describe it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom
>
> +------------------------------------+
> |  CycoActive Products             tel [phone]
> |  701 34th Ave             fax [phone]
> |  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
> |  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
> |  e-mail:  [e-mail]
> +------------------------------------+
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Givi's crashability
Date: 31 Mar 1999 21:00:54 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 4:31:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

> hmm. seems much like the "standard" bmw cases i saw on my travel mates
bikes.
>  They had rigged up a strap system. Basically there was an additional strap
>  holding the bag shut while they traveled. 3/4" or maybe 1" webbing with a
> metal
As an ex-BMW owner I would suggest that the primary reason for those straps is
to hold the bags onto the bike.  Ever notice how many older Beemers are
missing a bag? Their latch system can seem to be fastened and then at 80 mph
you glance in the mirror only to see a bag bouncing down the hwy.  The new
ones are much better.
Kurt G.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Novice's inquiry
Date: 31 Mar 1999 21:10:21 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 7:06:28 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< Any and all opinions and advive are welcome.  Thanks in advance to all who
 reply. >>
Vik, where do you novices find people that sell almost new bikes for such
cheap prices? My dealer  doesn't make a big deal about exact mileages for the
services.
I bought an almost perfect used one too and the seller led me to believe that
he had the 500 mile service performed. After reading this list for a while,  I
researched the repair orders a found that there was no record of the initial
service, so with 1,500 miles on the clock my dealer said "no big deal" make
sure its got oil and lets schedule it in, I told him that I was taking the
MULE on a 31,000 mile ride this fall and I would appreciate looking over the
wrench's shoulder and he said sure. By the way,  his rate for the initial
service is $78.00 plus parts and he said it includes valve adjustment if
necessary, we'll see. It sounds like you got a great bargain frank



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Givi's crashability
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:15:57 -0700

    Marick, I've gone down with my Givis (35L) on every imaginable
surface; last time on pavement at 25?mph. My bags are of course scratched
but functionally perfect. One bit of advice, NEVER remove the mounts to
straighten them. They'll be a bear to get back on. Leave them on the bike
and get a long pole/stick. They will be fixed in 5 min. If , God forbid you
do pulverize a Givi, Fred + many others can mail it to you pronto. Bogdan

    I'm struggling to choose between Givi hard bags and Tourtech spam
cans
    for my trip to S.A.  The Givi's appeal because of their more
reasonable
    price, lighter weight and I like the sizing better.  My major
reservation
    is about their ability to survive crashes.  Not that I expect to
    crash, mind you, but in that part of the world I hear the ground can
    sometimes just reach up and smack you when you least expect it.  So,
    I'd like to hear any experiences others have had with the Givi's in
    this regard.

    Thanks, Marick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey P Moorbeck <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Novice's inquiry
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:16:46 -0700 (MST)

On Wed, 31 Mar 1999, Vic DeFilippis wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I just bought a 1998 KLR650 (near mint, 650 miles, 4 mos. left on warranty,
> $3200; was this a fair price or did I get ripped off?) and knowing next to
Quite the steal I'd say!
>
> 1) Now I have about 800 miles on it but haven't performed any maintenance.
> Looking at past messages on 500 mile maintenance really freaked me out.
> How significant is the risk of voiding the warranty if I want to do some of
> the work myself?
> 2) Should I just immediately stop riding it until I get 500 mile service
> done on it?  Is it going to mess something up if I do?
I don't know about voiding the warranty, but the bike isn't going to blow
up if you don't stop riding immediately. I would do the oil change and
check the valves as soon as possible, but don't stop riding because of it,
some may disagree with me here. Some good advice that has popped on this
list is to take it in and just specifically have them check and adjust the
valves.

> 3) As already mentioned I know very little about maintaining/repairing my
> KLR (unfortunately).  More importantly I don't want to be dependent on a
> dealer for every little thing.  I'm more than willing to learn everything
> so is there a reference out there anyone can suggest that provides good
> maintenance information that can be understood by a dope like me?  I'd ask

The only manuals that exist are put out by Kawasaki, a base manual for the
600 and a supplement for the 650. Fred Hink has these in stock I believe,
you should see his name on this list.

 > 3) Can I firm up the rear shock myself or is that too
complex for one
> motorcycle-inept person to do by himself? (I'm about 190 lbs. and it seems
The owners manual should tell you how to adjust the rear shock. Only two
adjustments.

> 4) I already had a damn flat rear tire (factory tires).  That sucks
> especially for someone who rides alone.  Is it possible that this is
> related to the fact that these tires suck?  Should I just buy new ones
> right now?  Please say no.  (I ride about 60:40 trails:pavement).

Just about everyone I know will run the stock tire till its worn out. I'd
ride for a few more miles. If you still can't stand them after that then
it's your choice.

> 5) Is it true that you shouldn't load >20 lbs. on the back rack?  Seems a
> little light to me...

This is the first I've heard of this.

Have Fun!

Jeff
Tucson, AZ
'89 KLR




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE:
Date: 31 Mar 1999 18:15:19 -0800


>
> A fool who persists in his folly will become wise. William Blake
> --
> Anyone can make mistakes, but only an idiot persists in his error.
> -- Cicero
>
If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.
--anonymous




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Christmas in Canada
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:37:45 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>
>
>>Hey it was Christmas today.  Received a package in the mail today.
>
>another sicko checks in...Christmas has been way early for me this year
>too...Fred...humbug...my bank account looks like it has been raped and
pillaged...thanks Fred,
>thanks a bunch...(g)
>
>Kurt
>
>
>

Ya, and wasn't that DR supposed to be your SO and doesn't she have her own
bank account???

Fred  (who doesn't stop at crosswalks for kids and injured old folks)  ;<)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Racks for my Givi bags?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:46:37 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Does anybody else make racks for the KLR650 and the Givi bags?
>
>I also need a rear plate to mount the third bag.
>
>Who should I call?

If you can't find a used rack and mounting plate give me a call and I can
get you some from GiVi.  GiVi is making their own mounting racks now.

Fred





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Trailer wiring?
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:57:15 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>Hello,
>
>Does anyone know if there is a 'standard' for the wiring of a 'flat-four'
>trailer connector?  If so, can you describe it?


Tom,

I just built a trailer and the color code that was suggested in the
instructions say:

White wire is ground.
Brown wire is tail lights, running lights and licence plate illumination.
Green wire is right hand stop and turn signal.
Red wire is left hand stop and turn signal.

If your trailer goes up in flames don't blame me!

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bogdan Swider <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Givi's crashability
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:55:15 -0700

    I don't agree. I've used them on month long trips. For my ridding
style I wouldn't want an oz. more weight than they could hold in the rear
anyway. As it is, if I'm not careful to pack ALL the heavy stuff in the tank
bag & tank panniers handling is compromised. Large bulky items go in the
bags. BTW Patrice when you went down in Mexico was it oil on the road or one
of those "vados" with slippery moss growing in them that transverse highways
in Baja? Bogdan

    Givis are fine for getting around town or going on a long weekend.
Fork out
    the extra dollars and you won't regret being stingy like I was.

    Patrice Robinet
    Frenchman on Two Wheels
    1998 KLR 650

    -----Original Message-----
    From: [e-mail]
    [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Marick
    Payton
    Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 5:44 PM
    To: [e-mail]
    Subject: (klr650) Givi's crashability


    I'm struggling to choose between Givi hard bags and Tourtech spam
cans
    for my trip to S.A.  The Givi's appeal because of their more
reasonable
    price, lighter weight and I like the sizing better.  My major
reservation
    is about their ability to survive crashes.  Not that I expect to
    crash, mind you, but in that part of the world I hear the ground can
    sometimes just reach up and smack you when you least expect it.  So,
    I'd like to hear any experiences others have had with the Givi's in
    this regard.

    Thanks, Marick




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Novice's inquiry
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:04:37 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>Hi,
>
>I just bought a 1998 KLR650

Congrats on your purchase.  Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.  If you
are satisfied then that is all that matters.  You should get the Kawasaki
service manuals for your bike.  You will need two of them.  The KLR base
manual and the supplement.  I have them for sale and just got some in today.
Kawasaki just raised their prices on their manuals.  These would be a good
place to start and have most all your questions answered.  If not then this
list for sure will have an answer for you.

Good luck!

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Novice's inquiry
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:06:12 -0700

|I just bought a 1998 KLR650 (near mint, 650 miles, 4 mos. left on warranty,
|$3200; was this a fair price or did I get ripped off?)

Excellent price...sell the bike right now for $3,750 put the money in the bank and run away
before I guy named Fred starts sending you Christmas Presents...it sounds arcane and perhaps a
little kinky now but remember I warned you...

|2) Should I just immediately stop riding it until I get 500 mile service
|done on it?  Is it going to mess something up if I do?

Yes, put it in the garage and force yourself to just start touching it all over, looking and
listening...get prepared as we act as your brain and walk you throught the first service...tell
us when you are ready....


Before you ride one more mile check the air pressure in both tires...I would suggest 28/28-30
but others will tell you more or less...

|so is there a reference out there anyone can suggest that provides good
|maintenance information that can be understood by a dope like me?

the website has oil change and filter (order a magnetic drain plug and K & P filter in
advance)...adust the balancer chain...check the valves...check the height of the fork tubes in
the triple clamps...check the chain...change the oil in the forks (order progressive springs in
advance)...

  I'd ask
|someone for help but I don't even know anyone who owns a motorcycle let
|alone a KLR.  (Yes, I have the owner's manual but as you know it's
|practically a brochure)

order the two manuals...from you know where...
|
|3) Can I firm up the rear shock myself or is that too complex for one
|motorcycle-inept person to do by himself? (I'm about 190 lbs. and it seems
|way too mushy for me right now)

the pre-load is adjustable from the top left if you move some of the stuff out of the way (I
took it off and stored it)...set it to 3...the damping adjustment is on the right bottom of the
shock under a clip you pop off...set also to 3...
|
|4) I already had a damn flat rear tire (factory tires).  That sucks
|especially for someone who rides alone.  Is it possible that this is
|related to the fact that these tires suck?  Should I just buy new ones
|right now?  Please say no.  (I ride about 60:40 trails:pavement).

yes, buy new ones and send the old ones to me, I will dispose of them without a Federal
recycling fee...seriously, nothing wrong with the stock tires...

|
|5) Is it true that you shouldn't load >20 lbs. on the back rack?  Seems a
|little light to me...


|Sems like a very powerful bike that's easy to ride.

Not true...a hard bike to ride at slow speeds, just wait until you try to look cool at the
Custard Stand and grab the front brake in an off-camber situation...pfloop....verrrry
interessting...


Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Patrice Robinet" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (klr650) Givi's crashability
Date: 31 Mar 1999 22:10:31 -0500

I fell about 35km north of La Paz in Baja in a curve that is apparently
called 'la curva de la mantequa' (the butter curve).  Of course I only found
out about that AFTER the accident.  I was very lucky, only bad road rash on
my arm and a shearer oil drain screw on the front left fork tube.  And hurt
pride......

Could have been much worse but I was the only vehicle on the road.

Patrice Robinet


-----Original Message-----
[mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Bogdan
Swider
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 9:55 PM


    I don't agree. I've used them on month long trips. For my ridding
style I wouldn't want an oz. more weight than they could hold in the rear
anyway. As it is, if I'm not careful to pack ALL the heavy stuff in the tank
bag & tank panniers handling is compromised. Large bulky items go in the
bags. BTW Patrice when you went down in Mexico was it oil on the road or one
of those "vados" with slippery moss growing in them that transverse highways
in Baja? Bogdan

    Givis are fine for getting around town or going on a long weekend.
Fork out
    the extra dollars and you won't regret being stingy like I was.

    Patrice Robinet
    Frenchman on Two Wheels
    1998 KLR 650

    -----Original Message-----
    From: [e-mail]
    [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Marick
    Payton
    Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 5:44 PM
    To: [e-mail]
    Subject: (klr650) Givi's crashability


    I'm struggling to choose between Givi hard bags and Tourtech spam
cans
    for my trip to S.A.  The Givi's appeal because of their more
reasonable
    price, lighter weight and I like the sizing better.  My major
reservation
    is about their ability to survive crashes.  Not that I expect to
    crash, mind you, but in that part of the world I hear the ground can
    sometimes just reach up and smack you when you least expect it.  So,
    I'd like to hear any experiences others have had with the Givi's in
    this regard.

    Thanks, Marick





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Muffler Guard
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:23:28 -0800

.  Remember it's tick season for us Southern Boys, brought
>home more of them yesterday than the dog did.
>
>Larry (tickless once again)
>

Man I hate those.  I remember this one time I was in the field just
overnight, and I picked 17 ticks off just from around my waist.  My legs had
more even.  Ticks and poison ivy, my two arch enemies.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Novice's inquiry
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:18:50 -0800

> > 5) Is it true that you shouldn't load >20 lbs. on the back rack?  Seems
a
> > little light to me...
>
> This is the first I've heard of this.
>
> Have Fun!
>
> Jeff
> Tucson, AZ
> '89 KLR


My '99 KLR has a factory sticker on the rack stating that the load limit is
22 lbs.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Moab Posse
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:31:11 -0800



>List,
>  Just checking to see if anyone from the Northwest wants to partner up for
>Moab. Either meet in-route or whatever. We will be camping along the way
and
>may take some back routes, depending on weather and time. So far we plan on
>leaving May 31 or June 1.
>   If you`re on a KLR650 like me, we may have to hold back a little because
>my wife will be on an F650 and another buddy on his KTM.
>
>Skip
>
Ordinarily, I'd love to go, but I'll be having finals during that time.
And, once I get out of finals, I'll be starting summer quarter with no
break.  That aside, even if I could find the time, I just got nabbed for
jury duty, of all things, They won't take no for an answer, school and all.
They even tried to make me serve during my spring break, the communist
bastards!  Actually, I should just show up and get it over with....I'm so
opinionated about right and wrong that I'd probably get dismissed right
away.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Way off topic
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:48:41 -0800



>Anyone know if I can rent a motorcycle in Milwaukee for a weekend? Got a
>family reunion to go to last weekend in July, and it'd sure be nice to
>be on 2 wheels whilst tooling between events. (As opposed to being stuck
>in someone else's car going to antique stores.) I'm browsing the web,
>and if I become a member of HOG, then I can rent a HOG, but I was hoping
>to get something that might actually lean just a bit...
>
>Sarah
>
Another Californian not originally from California.  OK, in last month's
Cycle World, I saw an ad for Cruise America, www.cruiseamerica.com , and
they show a picture of a Buell on the ad, they say they've got Hondas too.
Don't know where they are based out of, but they have 16 centers, in the US
and Canada.  Good luck.

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Helmets
Date: 31 Mar 1999 19:46:35 -0800

On the subject of helmets, I've got my sights set on the Nolan N100.

Anyone familiar with the differences between the "Trend" and the "Classic"?

My hat size is 7 3/8.  Does this translate to an XL?

Gino???  I think you have one nes pas?

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) nklr - humor
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:00:39 -0800



>A newcomer to Portland (or Seattle) arrives on a rainy day. She gets up
>the next day and it's raining. It also rains the day after that, and the
>day after that.
>
>She goes out to lunch and sees a young kid and, out of despair, asks,
>"Hey, kid, does it ever stop raining around here?"
>
>The kid says,  "How  should I know?  I'm only 6."
>

Its not rain!  Its liquid sunshine!

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Helmets
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:59:42 -0700


-----Original Message-----


>On the subject of helmets, I've got my sights set on the Nolan N100.
>
>Anyone familiar with the differences between the "Trend" and the "Classic"?
>
>My hat size is 7 3/8.  Does this translate to an XL?
>
>Gino???  I think you have one nes pas?
>
>Arne
>
>
>

7 3/8 = a large

The Classic has a better padded chin strap and painted covers over the hinge
pivots and the top vents.  Other than that they look the same.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) RE:
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:14:06 -0800



>
>>
>> A fool who persists in his folly will become wise. William Blake
>> --
>> Anyone can make mistakes, but only an idiot persists in his error.
>> -- Cicero
>>
>If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.
>--anonymous
>
>
Admit nothing, deny everything, make counter-accusations.
--The Politicians Motto




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Givi's crashability
Date: 31 Mar 1999 22:59:13 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 5:18:18 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< The 'spam pack' is a bit heavier but you only need 2 good
 size ones whereas with the Givi you definitely need three. What's more only
 the 'spam packs' are truly waterproof.  The joint on the Givis is all around
 so somehow H2O always seems to find a wee bit in!

 Plus, I think the 'spam packs' just look cooler!!

 Givis are fine for getting around town or going on a long weekend.  Fork out
 the extra dollars and you won't regret being stingy like I was. >>

My Touratechs have completely spoiled me.  I can carry the same amount of
stuff as a Honda Civic practically.  They are water proof, but have never
crash tested them.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Novice's inquiry
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:18:20 -0800

>>Hi,
>>
>>I just bought a 1998 KLR650
>
>Congrats on your purchase.  .........

Sounds like you need a form letter to the new members, to display your
wares.  Hit em up while there still grinning from their first ride!

Jeff




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Tech THANKS!!
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:15:21 -0800



Ted Palmer wrote:

> Christopher J Beasley wrote:
>
> > Well, it seems not much is going on technically with everybody else's KLRs.
>
> Ah Grasshopper, still waters run deep.
>

Yeah, still waters (I'm still in the breaking in period) ran up Skyline and Grizzley
Peak tonight and got in some DIRT too!  I even went DOWN in the mud, street tyres!  A
new FLASHER is working fine, aftermarket for 8 bux instead of the same thing from Kaw
for 30!  And they both have the same Nippondenso part number!  Kudos to Sam at
Pineapple Honda Kaw in Oakland for saving me the bux, and the time, not that I havn't
been giving my share at the parts counter.  Anyway, You can check everything, and
everything can look fine and you can still have a bad flasher.  The test for this is
to replace it with a wire.  If the switch now turns the signals on continuously, you
need a new flasher, even though it passes the continuity test.  Cool!  I love my bike
and it loves me, again!

Thanks listers for listening to my endless whining about trivial problems with my old,
beat-up KLR.  Nextweek, the clutch and kickstarter!

>

snip

> The 600 base manual shows a few pics and has a few words.
> Let us know if the 650 kicker is significantly different.
>

Will try to do that!Cheers!
Chris


> Mister_T






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Givi's crashability
Date: 31 Mar 1999 23:09:55 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 6:57:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

> one
>  of those "vados" with slippery moss growing in them that transverse
highways
>  in Baja? Bogdan
Like the one on the North side of Catavina?  Just a guess, but that spot has
claimed a lot of bikes.
Kurt G.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Givi regrets
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:40:45 PST

>Givis are fine for getting around town or going on a long weekend.
>Fork out the extra dollars and you won't regret being stingy like I
>was.
>        Patrice Robinet

Patrice,

Can you say a little more about why you regret buying Givi's?  What
problems did you have and under what circumstances?

Thanks,
Marick




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:     "Marick Payton"   <[e-mail]>
Subject: (klr650) Givi regrets
Date: 31 Mar 1999 20:46:15 PST

Patrice, et al,

No need for further response re Givi's. I get the klr mail in
digest form and saw Bogdan's response with a clip of your note
before getting to the full test itself.

Indeed, one downside I see with the Givi's is that you can't really
pack them well (or open them up) on the bike. But, they do pop off
really easily.

At this point I'm inclined toward Bogdan's argument that the lighter
weight of the Givi's is a real advantage, particularly off the
asphalt.

Marick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (klr650) Helmets
Date: 31 Mar 1999 23:46:53 EST

In a message dated 3/31/99 8:50:30 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< My hat size is 7 3/8.  Does this translate to an XL?

 Gino???  I think you have one nes pas?
  >>

Not sure about sizing.  I wear a large in an Arai and the Nolan too.

The Trend model N100 has black side plates and top air vent.  The classic has
color matched side plates and top vent.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Helmets
Date: 31 Mar 1999 21:06:36 -0800

> Not sure about sizing.  I wear a large in an Arai and the Nolan too.
>
> The Trend model N100 has black side plates and top air vent.  The classic
has
> color matched side plates and top vent.
>
> Gino

Would it be too personal a question to ask you the circumference of your
head?
Mine is exactly 23".

If only the dealers out here had a wall full of these helmets...  They have
one (small) on display and will "bring in" what you need.  And if I order
one in I'd want to have the size nailed down.

Thanks Gino.

Arne




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher J Beasley <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Novice's inquiry
Date: 31 Mar 1999 21:17:27 -0800



Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote:

> >>Hi,
> >>
> >>I just bought a 1998 KLR650
> >
> >Congrats on your purchase.  .........
>
> Sounds like you need a form letter to the new members, to display your
> wares.  Hit em up while there still grinning from their first ride!
>

He has one, it's called "list & webpage"!  Hey Fred!  Where's my stuff?  ;-)Beez



> Jeff






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Helmets
Date: 31 Mar 1999 22:24:49 -0700


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>> Not sure about sizing.  I wear a large in an Arai and the Nolan too.


What I won't do to make a SALE!!!

Check out.... http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/images/helmetsize.jpg

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Givi regrets
Date: 31 Mar 1999 22:16:18 -0800


-----Original Message-----


>Patrice, et al,
>
>No need for further response re Givi's. I get the klr mail in
>digest form and saw Bogdan's response with a clip of your note
>before getting to the full test itself.
>
>Indeed, one downside I see with the Givi's is that you can't really
>pack them well (or open them up) on the bike. But, they do pop off
>really easily.
>
>At this point I'm inclined toward Bogdan's argument that the lighter
>weight of the Givi's is a real advantage, particularly off the
>asphalt.


Marick I have a Givi topcase (45L) and its great in town, but it doesn't
pack very effectively because it opens in the middle.  Its hard to strap or
stack stuff on top of it because of the odd round shape.  I think you'll
find that finding space for all your stuff will become an issue with the
Givi luggage on an extended trip.  If you are going solo consider that
you'll need to carry or lock anything you leave on the bike - so having some
extra storage that you can use at stops will be helpful.   One of the
reasons I went with 182L single aluminum box is not because I plan on
packing it full, but rather when I want to stop and leave my bike the tank
panniers, tank bag and helmet can all go inside and be locked safely.

Personally I'd go with the Touratech boxes and Hepco & Becker racks over the
Givi stuff.  If you want to save some bucks - buy the Hepco & Becker mounts
and get two boxes custom made for you.  This way you can use all the storage
space (top opening) and I would feel more comfortable with the strength and
security of this setup, but that's a total opinion not based on any bad
experience with Givi.

As far as weight goes I think the difference between these two systems is
not enough to worry about.  How much weight will you be carrying in gear?
What is the incremental weight of aluminum boxes?  A KLR with a full tank,
tank bag, tank panniers, side boxes and top box will not handle great
period.  Is this a problem?  I don't think so as long as you pack sensibly
(weight low and forward) and you spend some time (before you leave) playing
with your fully loaded bike on and offroad so you know how its handling is
affected.

Another way to tackle the problem is to decide on exactly what you will be
taking and start packing it on your bike.  Use cardboard boxes for the side
boxes and topbox to see just how much carrying capacity you'll need.  This
will help you decide if the luggage system you are looking at is sufficient
and also help you determine early if you need to start dumping gear off your
list.

Just some thoughts,

Vik




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Helmets
Date: 31 Mar 1999 22:23:48 -0800

Arne,

I was going to buy the Nolan, but found that my chin hit the front of the
face guard if I did any kind of chewing motion.  I wouldn't have guessed
this without trying it on first.  I ended up with a Shoei Duotech (flip up
chin as well) that cost a bunch more - I would have been happy with the
Nolan, but for that one problem.  Make sure your dealer won't charge you if
you have a fit problem - it may fit your head, but what about a similar chin
problem.  I would have been pissed if I had to pay a restocking fee or
return something by mail.

Cheers,

Vik

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>> Not sure about sizing.  I wear a large in an Arai and the Nolan too.
>>
>> The Trend model N100 has black side plates and top air vent.  The classic
>has
>> color matched side plates and top vent.
>>
>> Gino
>
>Would it be too personal a question to ask you the circumference of your
>head?
>Mine is exactly 23".
>
>If only the dealers out here had a wall full of these helmets...  They have
>one (small) on display and will "bring in" what you need.  And if I order
>one in I'd want to have the size nailed down.
>
>Thanks Gino.
>
>Arne
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Simpson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (klr650) Novice's inquiry
Date: 01 Apr 1999 01:31:04 +0000

At 05:06 PM 3/31/99 -0800, Vic DeFilippis wrote:
>Hi,

    And to you to!


>1) Now I have about 800 miles on it but haven't performed any maintenance.
>Looking at past messages on 500 mile maintenance really freaked me out.
>How significant is the risk of voiding the warranty if I want to do some of
>the work myself?  I mean, a valve clearance check is one thing but I don't
>want to shell out money for some guy to change the oil and check the tire
>pressure...
>
>2) Should I just immediately stop riding it until I get 500 mile service
>done on it?  Is it going to mess something up if I do?
>
>3) As already mentioned I know very little about maintaining/repairing my
>KLR (unfortunately).  More importantly I don't want to be dependent on a
>dealer for every little thing.  I'm more than willing to learn everything
>so is there a reference out there anyone can suggest that provides good
>maintenance information that can be understood by a dope like me?  I'd ask
>someone for help but I don't even know anyone who owns a motorcycle let
>alone a KLR.  (Yes, I have the owner's manual but as you know it's
>practically a brochure)


    We can certainly help. No, Chances are that you do not have to immediatly
discontinue riding. However, I would check the valves ASAP, as in within
the next few hundred miles. Most of them are OK at the 500 mile
mark...except for the ones that arent. :) I imagine that warranty coverage
would have a lot to do with your relationship with your local dealer. My
dealer wouldnt hassle me unless I dropped bolt down in the engine or
something. They understood at the outset I would be doing my own
maintenece, anyway.



    Get a manual (the set of manuals, actualy) from Kawasaki, No, its not
cheap. Yes, it (they) are essential.



>3) Can I firm up the rear shock myself or is that too complex for one
>motorcycle-inept person to do by himself? (I'm about 190 lbs. and it seems
>way too mushy for me right now)


    Not much an individual can do with aside from the preload and rebound
dampening. The former is a 10-12mm nut on the fect side of the shock body,
the latter is at the bottom of the shock body behind a small plastic cover.
The owners manual should have all that in it. It pretty simple. At 255
lbs., I run everything as firm as possible. Bit stiff when Im on it solo
but barely adequate when two-up or loaded with camping gear.




>4) I already had a damn flat rear tire (factory tires).  That sucks
>especially for someone who rides alone.  Is it possible that this is
>related to the fact that these tires suck?  Should I just buy new ones
>right now?  Please say no.  (I ride about 60:40 trails:pavement).


    I didnt puncture mine, but they were pretty crappy tires alright. No stick
on the road, no grip in the mud and the rear was worn to the cords in under
3,500 miles. Pretty  pitiful. Still, no reason not to get some honest use
from them.


>5) Is it true that you shouldn't load >20 lbs. on the back rack?  Seems a
>little light to me...


    I got a 17" computer monitor home on the back of mine once, 48 lbs. worth.
 It will hold a fair bit more but you need to be aware of the impact cargo
may have on handling.


-Tom
'96 KLR 650
33,900 miles