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dr350-digest          Thursday, July 15 1999          Volume 01 : Number 104




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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:55:01 -0400
From: "Gaylord" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Carb Settings

Hi All, After some debate, I've decided to do the carb
mods recommended on this list.  My '96 SE is 100%
stock, and I'm happy with the mid to upper range, but the
bottom to mid range (1500-4500 rpm) definitely needs
help.

I searched the archives, and was surprised to see how
much the carb settings varied (main jets varied from stock
to HUGE, etc.).  I wonder if that's due to bike variations, or
altitude, or personal preference...

Anyway, with the goal of a stronger bottom to mid range,
without sacrificing the top end too much, these are the
changes I'm planning:  JX needle and spring, T-handle
pilot, 132.5 main (2 larger than stock), and removing the
airbox snorkel.  (I'm near sea-level, and have stock
exhaust.)  Any comments, or suggestions before I order
the parts?

Thanks,

Gaylord

PS.  Thanks a million to the list owner -- what a valuable
resource!


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 06:41:04 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) clutch plates

John just an update my email address is now [e-mail] my isp went out of
business, ps thanks for the plug Jesse

[e-mail] wrote:

> Tony,
>
> You are correct.
>
> Here is what you need: seven part # 21441-07A02 (fiber plates), six part
> #21451-28C30 (metal plates), and a side cover gasket. If your engine oil is
> fresh then wash the bike, then lay it over on it's side (fuel off first!), and
> use the shop maual torque values when reassembling.
>
> John
>
> I have heard that RMX 250 clutch plates fit DR350s
> and that they last longer is this true
>
> Tony
>
> Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 07:43:17 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (no DR content) Hey, Guy! (about links)

Guy, I've sent HOTMAIL to other AOL users, but I cant get anything to you.
Maybe you have some kind of filter in place thats blocking unknown
senders???  See msg below:



- --AOL Postmaster



   ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
<[e-mail]>

   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to air-zc04.mail.aol.com.:
>>>RCPT To:<[e-mail]>
<<< 550 Comobu IS NOT ACCEPTING MAIL FROM THIS SENDER
550 <[e-mail]>... User unknown
Attachment: attach3 (276b) -- Download without Scan -- Scan with McAfee
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: DR350 links
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 07:11:29 PDT
this might not get to you; last time I tried my msgs were bounced back to
me.  AOL must not like HOTMAIL?!?!

I'll mail you the $40 as a money order.  Just give me your address.  Send
the links (wait till you get my $$ if you want) to:

Bryan Landers
328 Phillips Dr
Coppell, TX.  75019

Thanks!

BTW---will be on vacation starting Sat morning thru next Sun...no email
correspondence in mean time.


_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:51:25 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) News from Portugal ! Suspension & carb work, please help.

Claudio,

I would submit another option:  Install a RaceTech GoldValve in your current
shock.

The only downside is that it wouldn't add external rebound control, but the
upsides are:

- - Vastly improves the "plushness" of your rear suspension.  This is
accomplished by more than tripling the flow capacity over the stock piston.
- - When you install the GoldValve, you actually fill out a worksheet in which
you specify your weight, riding style, bike style (i.e. 4-stroke),
experience, you like the suspension a bit softer or stiffer, etc.  The
result of this is that you end up with a "custom" shock for you.
- - The compression side stack ends up with 3 damping "stages".  The first
stage only engages for low-speed stuff, i.e. small bumps.  This stage offers
very little damping, so you barely feel the small bumps.
- - The second and third stages start to engage for more extreme bumps/jumps.
The result is that the damping becomes very significant, meaning that you
won't "bottom" your rear suspension.
- - The same applies for rebound, with 2 stages.  Even though you won't get
external adjustment of rebound, I submit that with the custom rebound shim
stack that you select, you won't need it.
- - The stock piston has a series of about 15 small (~3/32") holes through
which all the oil must travel.  For large jumps, the "hydraulic lock" effect
of these small holes can dominate over the shim stack itself.  This
non-linear behavior is bad -- basically the undesirable effect of damping
rod (vs. cartridge style) forks.
- - The GoldValve has 3 huge ports (each is about the size of a couple #2
pencils side-by-side).  These will never cause any "hydraulic lock".
Instead, your damping is entirely controlled by the shim stack, as you want
it to be, resulting in a very linear suspension.
- - The GoldValve kit for the rear runs about US$140, and you can install it
yourself with a minimum of tools in a weekend.  It comes with an excellent
video that walks you through the process.  I also made some DR-specific
notes that I sent out a couple days ago.  Or you can have your suspension
guy install it for you.

To answer your question below:  Yes, I believe that the installation of a
Gold Valve, switching to Kouba links, and perhaps installing a stiffer rear
spring (depending upon your weight) will eliminate all of the rear
instability problems.

I hope this information helps.  Feel free to ask questions about anything
that isn't clear.

Bryan
'96 DR441

P.S.  No relation to RaceTech other than a very satisfied customer.

ThunderSUB wrote:

[snip]
>
> I have also took the bike to the best Portuguese suspension tuner. He
> mostly works with TechnoFlex. So far, he has only modified the forks
> and set the rear shock sag for my weight. He replaced the stock fork
> springs for heavier ones, new fork oil, new fork seals, modified the
> hydraulics, etc... to suit my weight and riding style. What a
> difference ! I feel a lot more confident with the bike now and I am
> riding a lot faster off-road ! It costed me $200, worth every penny.
>
> He told me the stock shock ('93 DR350 S) sucked as it hasn't rebound
> adjustment. I will take the bike back to him to get new shock oil, new
> gas, new spring and the hydraulics modified to get  faster rebound
> than stock. However, he warned me that I shouldn't expect much...
>
> Do you gus think a new shock would solve the rear wobble and
> instability of my DR ?
>
> A new shock costs $630. It's a TechnoFlex fully adjustble in
> compression (low & high speed), preload, rebound and rider's height.
> To modify the stock shock he will charge $135, that's a $500
> difference !

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 13:48:56 -0400
From: "Jeff Herald" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Carb Settings

I wouldent bother with the T-handle pilot as the starter motor
limits is usefullness. Jetting is pretty hard to speculate about,
although a 132.5 looks about right. I have the same mods you
mentioned, and at 770 feet above sea level the stock main
(127.5 i think) is a bit on the lean side.

- - Jeff
98 DR350SE

> Anyway, with the goal of a stronger bottom to mid range,
> without sacrificing the top end too much, these are the
> changes I'm planning:  JX needle and spring, T-handle
> pilot, 132.5 main (2 larger than stock), and removing the
> airbox snorkel.  (I'm near sea-level, and have stock
> exhaust.)  Any comments, or suggestions before I order
> the parts?
>



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 13:33:28 -0600
From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Carb Settings

Just my opinion, but I found that there's more than enough range of =
adjustment on the T-handle, even with the starter motor sitting right =
under it. I thought it was well worth the $15. The only alternative is =
removing the carb everything you want to adjust it.

MikeT



Jeff Herald wrote:
I wouldent bother with the T-handle pilot as the starter motor=20
limits is usefullness.=20


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 13:07:30 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Carb Settings

FYI...the instructions that come with the T-handle says you must grind/cut
off about 1/3" of the pilot screw housing on the carb....easily done w
dremel tool or other device.  Once done, adjustment on the fly is very easy.

Bryan in Dallas
1995 DR350SE


>From: "Jeff Herald" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Jeff Herald" <[e-mail]>
>To: "Gaylord" <[e-mail]>, <[e-mail]>
>Subject: Re: (dr350) Carb Settings
>Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 13:48:56 -0400
>
>I wouldent bother with the T-handle pilot as the starter motor
>limits is usefullness. Jetting is pretty hard to speculate about,
>although a 132.5 looks about right. I have the same mods you
>mentioned, and at 770 feet above sea level the stock main
>(127.5 i think) is a bit on the lean side.
>
>- Jeff
>98 DR350SE
>
> > Anyway, with the goal of a stronger bottom to mid range,
> > without sacrificing the top end too much, these are the
> > changes I'm planning:  JX needle and spring, T-handle
> > pilot, 132.5 main (2 larger than stock), and removing the
> > airbox snorkel.  (I'm near sea-level, and have stock
> > exhaust.)  Any comments, or suggestions before I order
> > the parts?
> >
>
>
>
>Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 18:06:05 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 18:26:27 -0500

Scott;

DR350sex???? What's on your mind......I've heard of guys getting into their
bikes but.....okay, okay, sorry for the jokes...couldn't resist...

Most folks agree the place you should start for mods is with the suspension.
Stock, the bike is at its limits suspension-wise so if you go for horsepower
increases first,  you'll have a bike that'll really handle badly. First thing
you should do is dial in the stock suspenders to get a baseline from which to
make improvements. I don't know if the newest DR's have the upgraded
cartridge forks or are still using the damper rod stuff; either way there are
upgrades available. The best thing for the rear is the Kouba link which
replaces the stock "dogbone" link in the rear suspension. It's relatively
cheap (less than $100) and is easy to install.

For horsepower mods, simply opening up the airbox by cutting open the top is
about the cheapest mod you can do. 'Course you'll most likely have to rejet
your carb by replacing the main jet with one about 2 sizes larger (a good
starting point). Get a TwinAir (seems to get the nod for the popular vote) or
a UNI filter. Speaking of carbs, if you plan to do any serious off road
riding (or just plan to do a lot of off road riding), then replace the CV
"street" carb with the off-road only pumper carb. The dirt only version has a
carb with an accelerator pump and is not prone to the hiccups the CV carb
suffers when you get serious in the dirt. This may not be an option if you
live in a place that requires emmissions testing of street bikes....

IMHO, forget about the aftermarket exhaust system. Making notable, sizeable
increases in horsepower on a 4-stroke bike means making exponentially
sizeable increases in noise levels. Again, IMHO, the trade off is not worth
it; the ill will generated by a big booming 4-stroke is not the way to win
the hearts and minds of the non-riding land owners upon who's property you've
found trail bike nirvana.....And don't believe the hype about saving weight;
on a bike that weighs 280lbs, saving 5lbs ain't gonna make a hill of beans
difference when you're picking it up off a hillside. Save the 300 or so bucks
you'd spend on an aftermarket exhaust and get the bike to handle decently.

Just my 2 cents for what it's worth....

Mike
'93 DR350 (non-sex version)


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 01:41:09 +0200
From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) About Climer and OEM Manual

Is somebody able to talk me about the climer DR350s manual? is it good? M=
y
DR is of the year 99, and apparently, the climer manual is for DR=B4s unt=
il
the year 95, but there are not many motor differences...  can  I use the
book with my DR350SEX =B499 (yes SEX, DR SEX ... :) ) or there are a lot =
of
differences.

And the OEM manual ? How is it? I suppose that it will be the best thing,
but it is very expensive

These books are in
http://www.motorcycling.net/items.php3?m=3DS5546&y=3D1993&mk=3DSuzuki&ds=3D=
DR350SP&a
id=3D

Bye

______________________________________________


                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 17:06:35 -0700
From: "Jeff Corsaro" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) About Climer and OEM Manual

I just got my manual from the dealer for $55.  I was upset because it was
back ordered for a month and it does not have the supplemental for the 99'
model year.  I guess it does not matter much because the only difference I
know of is the color scheme, new sticker kit and same forks on both the
dual-sport and off-road model.  The manual covers every thing and has nice
charts of the specifications.  I personally like the OE Honda service
manuals over the Suzuki or Yamaha ones I have seen.  They are cheaper, bound
and have many pictures/diagrams.

Jeff


- -----Original Message-----
From: Pablo <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Thursday, July 15, 1999 4:40 PM
Subject: (dr350) About Climer and OEM Manual


And the OEM manual ? How is it? I suppose that it will be the best thing,
but it is very expensive

These books are in
http://www.motorcycling.net/items.php3?m=S5546&y=1993&mk=Suzuki&ds=DR350SP&a
id=

Bye



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 18:15:22 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) About Climer and OEM Manual

>dual-sport and off-road model.  The manual covers every thing and has nice
>charts of the specifications.  I personally like the OE Honda service
>manuals over the Suzuki or Yamaha ones I have seen.  They are cheaper,
bound
>and have many pictures/diagrams.
>
>Jeff


I agree except that the loose leaf design makes it easy to do a photocopy. I
did two, one for work, one for home. I leave the original as an archive copy
so that it doesn't get that nice dog-eared greasy patina of my everyday copy
(g)...

Kurt

BTW, I ordered mine from Fred Hink at [e-mail] and it arrived post
haste.


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------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #104
***************************