I broke a clutch cable too several years ago, right where the cable goes into the lead end piece, at the lever end of the cable. I had about 15 miles of interstate highway riding to get back to camp and just shifted without the clutch.
I took the cable to a local bike shop and had a new end installed, their repair job looked better than the factory end. The factory end is undersized and has a stupid little plastic sleeve around it that gets chewed up after many miles of riding, creating slop where the lead end piece pivots in the clutch lever. I think the slop created after the plastic sleeve turned to dust caused the cable to rub against the lever, etc. then the cable eventually broke. The new end was the same size as the hole in the lever.
After returning home I ordered a new clutch cable and carry it as a spare along with spare brake, clutch and shift levers. I've never needed the spares myself but have loaned them to other DR riders in need along the trail until the end of the day.
Doug
Tacoma, WA
soon the be in Moab for the Rally
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:53:07 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) clutch cables
I have also broken a clutch cable at the same weak point you describe. I
might suggest replacing it about every 5000 miles, or at least keep a close
eye on that end of the cable. TW
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:15:38 -0500
From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net>
Subject: (dr350) idle -fuel air mixture tweaking
Hi folks,
Note : this is only for those, who likes to experiment and tinker with
the bikes setting.
This experiment was done after the JX needle and spring was installed,
but i am sure it would do the same to stock carbs as well.
If you have a CV -constant velocity- carb, and have the "T" handle type
adjusting needle for for idle - air mixture adjuster, or have the
factory plug out , and some how managed to adjust this with out removing
the carb.
I do adjust mine with a tool that i purchased years ago to adjust 4
barrel GM and Chrysler carbs( $3).
It is a cheap flexible 10" spring like cable , and one end is a flat
screwdriver bit end 1/4" length , and the other end is a plastic block
to turn the cable.
Any way, as some already know, the mixture is set lean from the factory
, for emission reasons. What i found is, if you turn the mixture screw
out (will create a rich condition) idle will drop and be a bit unstable,
so you will have to turn it up to get it back to 1500 RPM.
If you can live with the idle quality , you will get a much stronger
pull, from idle till the main jet takes over. I know lots of people
does not like the snappy trottle, but i sure do.
Again try to remember how many turn did you turn it out from the
original , in case you want to go back to woosie mode.
(Little rich is always better than little lean)
George ( the bad mechanic)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 00:26:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) clutch
Bryan,
I doubt you will get a gasket for the clutch side case with your clutch
kit, probably have to ge it separately. The clutch has the lock-tab type
washer on the nut holding the hub on, hopefully an air impact wrench
will loosen the nut after bending the tab out, otherwise improvising is
in order. The clutch pull will be harder, I have an EBC kit and it is
stffer but works well.
I put on that MSR/Wirtz lever assembly and it helped alot.
Jim A.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:15:38 -0500
From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net>
Subject: (dr350) idle -fuel air mixture tweaking
Hi folks,
Note : this is only for those, who likes to experiment and tinker with
the bikes setting.
This experiment was done after the JX needle and spring was installed,
but i am sure it would do the same to stock carbs as well.
If you have a CV -constant velocity- carb, and have the "T" handle type
adjusting needle for for idle - air mixture adjuster, or have the
factory plug out , and some how managed to adjust this with out removing
the carb.
I do adjust mine with a tool that i purchased years ago to adjust 4
barrel GM and Chrysler carbs( $3).
It is a cheap flexible 10" spring like cable , and one end is a flat
screwdriver bit end 1/4" length , and the other end is a plastic block
to turn the cable.
Any way, as some already know, the mixture is set lean from the factory
, for emission reasons. What i found is, if you turn the mixture screw
out (will create a rich condition) idle will drop and be a bit unstable,
so you will have to turn it up to get it back to 1500 RPM.
If you can live with the idle quality , you will get a much stronger
pull, from idle till the main jet takes over. I know lots of people
does not like the snappy trottle, but i sure do.
Again try to remember how many turn did you turn it out from the
original , in case you want to go back to woosie mode.
