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dr350-digest          Friday, April 23 1999          Volume 01 : Number 028




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Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 09:22:39 -0600
From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:22:30 -0500

Bryan, I got a Suzuki repair manual off the internet for about $20.  It
covers DR250-350 90-94.  If Clymer makes the manual you want, the internet
will have it.  The site is called motobooks.com or motorcyclebooks.com or
something.  If you can't find it, I'll do a search for you.

Also, I called Thumper about the jetting question.  They tell me not to
change the size of the main or pilot jet if I have a stock exhaust.  They
say I might have to adjust the pilot airscrew to 2 1/2 turns.

And thanks for the dual sport riders website... I'm checking it out.

Chuck in Panama City, FL

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 09:41:07 -0600
From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:41:20 -0500

Brian, I searched around a bit and couldn't find the manual you need.
Strange - Clymer only makes a manual for 90-94DR?  Unfortunately I didn't
see a phone number for Clymer or Intertec (publisher) in my manual.  Sorry!

Chuck Vokac, Panama City, FL

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 11:17:36 -0500
From: "chasmatic" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Kick'n

Mike, Mike, Mike,

No need for you to feel the need to defend your choice of starting methods
(kick vs pushbutton) by implying that those of us with pushbuttons are
somehow physically impaired.  :-)  At well over 200 lbs, I can start even a
Harley with either leg.  A DR would simply be no problem.  Did you know that
with a pushbutton, I can even let it sit for months at a time (we have to do
that here in Minneapolis) and it will start with the first push of the
button.  But even better, you know those times when the bike does end up on
top of you, upside down, and the carb loads up and you have to kick the crap
out of it or pull the plug and kick the crap out of it, I just hold the
throttle wide open and push the button.  It starts right up.  No muss, no
fuss.  Give it a couple of revs and I'm on my way.  Just a word of warning
though.  I think you should alternate legs so you don't end up looking like
a man with one good leg dragging around an emaciated stump.  LOL

Good ridin
Harral
- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 8:44 AM
Subject: (dr350) (DR350) Kick'n


>  OK, for all you guy out there with impaired right leg muscles I am gonna
>set the record straight. I have a 95 DR. I have cut out the top of the air
>box and had the carb re-jetted. My bike never takes more than three kicks
to
>start unless I have let it sit for a couple months or it somehow ends up on
>top of me (this seems to happen sometimes). So take heart, with a little
>practice (start out kick'n a DR100) you will soon be able to wean yourself
of
>the electric Starter.
>
>Mike A.
>Nashville
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 09:54:36 -0600
From: "Karl Stingl" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Kick'n

Call me macho or a romantic, but there is something satisfying about kicking
a dirtbike to life.

Karl

PS I must be lucky that my bike starts so easy.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 09:34:30 -0700
From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs

Bryan Nolastname wrote:

> I switched out my stock steel bars yesterday for some blue Answer
> Alumilite bars.  I could hardly tell the diff in weight between the
> factory steel bars and my new Alumilites; but the factory bars are
> welded on ea end, making installation of bark-busters impossible.

  Almost impossible :-)  I went ahead and drilled a hole into the weld
(not easy) and then made a tap for some screws that are flanged on the
end.  This seems to work perfect for my bark busters.  I was able to
confirm that they work great this week as a large sized redwood and I
had a close encounter and I came out the victor.

- --
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 12:39:00 -0400
From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs

I don't know about anyone else, but on my dr, the biggest complaint I had
about the bars were, they were bent to far in to get a comfortable riding
position and when you turn the bars full to one side, the bars would smash
my leg before to triple clamp hit it's stop. After riding an enduro and
almost crying from the pain, I tossed the stock bars right into the garbage
can
 ----------
From: Scott Aldrich
To: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 12:34PM

Bryan Nolastname wrote:

> I switched out my stock steel bars yesterday for some blue Answer
> Alumilite bars.  I could hardly tell the diff in weight between the
> factory steel bars and my new Alumilites; but the factory bars are
> welded on ea end, making installation of bark-busters impossible.

  Almost impossible :-)  I went ahead and drilled a hole into the weld
(not easy) and then made a tap for some screws that are flanged on the
end.  This seems to work perfect for my bark busters.  I was able to
confirm that they work great this week as a large sized redwood and I
had a close encounter and I came out the victor.

 --
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 09:43:25 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs

> > factory steel bars and my new Alumilites; but the factory bars are
> > welded on ea end, making installation of bark-busters impossible.
>
>   Almost impossible :-)  I went ahead and drilled a hole into the weld
> (not easy) and then made a tap for some screws that are flanged on the

This is a good approach.

OTOH, if you want those slugs out completely (I did this on my old '97 SE):

1) Drill into the center of the slug and tap it for a long (~3") screw that
you hopefully have in your miscellaneous screw bin.
2) Remove most of the weld holding the slug in.  I found the best way to do
this was to drill a series of holes through the weld itself, as
closely-spaced as you can.  The only trick here is to avoid removing any of
the actual bar material (not difficult).
3) Use an appropriately-sized socket to bang the slug _into_ the bar, in
order to break what's left of the weld.
4) Use a Dremel-type tool to grind out the remainder of the weld on the
inside of the bar.
5) Insert your ~3" screw to the slug, and "slide hammer" it out with the
claws of a hammer.

FWIW,
Bryan
'96 DR441

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:52:56 -0600
From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:41:20 -0500

Brian:

Don't bother calling Clymer or Haynes. Neither makes a catalog any later than about '94. Don't know why!!

I bought the Suzuki manual along with my '96.

Mike Terrian

On Friday, April 23, 1999 9:41 AM, Vokac, Chuck [SMTP:[e-mail]] wrote:
> Brian, I searched around a bit and couldn't find the manual you need.
> Strange - Clymer only makes a manual for 90-94DR?  Unfortunately I didn't
> see a phone number for Clymer or Intertec (publisher) in my manual.  Sorry!
>
> Chuck Vokac, Panama City, FL
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 11:06:28 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs

+AD4-I don't know about anyone else, but on my dr, the biggest complaint I had
+AD4-about the bars were, they were bent to far in to get a comfortable riding
+AD4-position and when you turn the bars full to one side, the bars would smash
+AD4-my leg before to triple clamp hit it's stop.

yeah, I'm not liking them either, too low also...

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 13:02:00 -0400
From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:41:20 -0500

They probably don't make the bike because with the addition of electric
start, the bikes became maintenance free, so no need for a manual  <grin>
 ----------
From: Michael Terrian
To: DR350 Lists (E-mail)
Subject: RE: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:41:20 -0500
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 12:52PM

Brian:

Don't bother calling Clymer or Haynes. Neither makes a catalog any later
than about '94. Don't know why!!

I bought the Suzuki manual along with my '96.

Mike Terrian

On Friday, April 23, 1999 9:41 AM, Vokac, Chuck
[SMTP:[e-mail]] wrote:
> Brian, I searched around a bit and couldn't find the manual you need.
> Strange - Clymer only makes a manual for 90-94DR?  Unfortunately I didn't
> see a phone number for Clymer or Intertec (publisher) in my manual.
Sorry!
>
> Chuck Vokac, Panama City, FL
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 11:42:43 -0500
From: "C. Coons" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Kick'n

These are the times when all the trade-offs seem justified.


>or it somehow ends up on
>top of me (this seems to happen sometimes).

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 14:08:08 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) dr350 throttle tube

The aftermarket has throttle tubes for the RM Mxer that also fit the DR...
just the tube not the dual cable pulley that connects to the tube... thus you
can put any grip on you like!

Random question.. How can i find/get on a list about Ford trucks/motors??

Thanks...

Guy @[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 12:36:18 -0700
From: "Bruce P. Clapp" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) airbox

Here's what I did. Take your air box out from the bike, and give it a
good scrub job to clean it out. Using the tool of your choice (I used a
jig saw) cut a 4" hole from the top. Make sure that you don't cut any of
the mounting portions that help the airbox to fit to the frame.

When I took out the snorkel, I really didn't see any difference.

If you do this, make sure that you are religious about  cleaning your
air filter if you ride in dusty conditions.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:    chasmatic [SMTP:[e-mail]]
>Sent:    Friday, April 23, 1999 9:22 AM
>To:    Bruce P. Clapp
>Subject:    Re: (dr350) airbox
>
>Exactly what did you do to your airbox and carburation, Bruce?  Most of my
>riding is done between sea level and 7000 ft.  Really the majority is done
>under 2500 ft.  I am curious if there is something to be gained by just
>pulling the snorkel on top of the airbox?
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bruce P. Clapp <[e-mail]>
>To: '[e-mail]' <[e-mail]>
>Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 9:22 AM
>Subject: RE: (dr350) airbox
>
>
>>I did this to my DR350 with great results. It definitely gives the bike
>>a happy wakeup. I'm guessing  an addition 15% horsepower. Keep an eye on
>>the jetting, as you may need to change this.
>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: [e-mail] [SMTP:[e-mail]]
>>>Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 6:44 PM
>>>To: [e-mail]
>>>Subject: (dr350) airbox
>>>
>>>My bike has nothing done to it at all will I notice any power increase
>>>from drilling the airbox?Am I better off drilling holes in it or cutting
>>>off the top?will I need to do anything after I do this?Is this more
>>>trouble than its worth doing this to a stock bike?Thanks
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 13:38:49 -0600
From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 14:39:19 -0500

OK, check me if I've got this straight:
The PILOT JET only affects fuel flow in idle and up to 1/8th throttle.  The
MAIN JET only affects fuel flow beyond 3/4ths throttle.  The PILOT SCREW,
NEEDLE DIAMETER, AND NEEDLE CLIP POSITION affects fuel flow all the way from
idle through 3/4th throttle.  Since I will be using a JX needle and spring
from Thumper Racing, I will be altering the PILOT SCREW (I'll adjust that
myself), NEEDLE DIAMETER (skinnier or richer needle with more optimal taper
will be provided by Thumper), AND NEEDLE CLIP POSITION (also set by
Thumper).  Also, I will be installing a weaker spring (Thumper's) so the
venturi will open quicker and throttle response will be faster.  Therefore,
the only thing I won't be altering is the range from 3/4th to full throttle.
If I have poor response or the bike runs lean in this range, I need a bigger
MAIN JET (maybe a 140).  Does this sound right?

Chuck Vokac - Panama City FL.
p.s. Some of the discussions (i.e. midgets and electric starters) seem to be
getting a little confrontational and maybe a little silly.  Let's keep this
list COOL - we are all DR bretheren.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 15:55:13 -0400
From: Bret Gergely <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Anybody got a 435 kit from thumper

I am new to the list and I have a 95 DR350SE and 96 DR350S.  I drilled
holes on both air boxes and they run great.  On the SE I took off almost
all of the street crap.  I was wondering if anyone had a 435cc kit from
thumper or any big bore kit.  I wanted to know about the reliability of
it.  I was wondering if it came with a new camshaft if not how
beneficial would it be too get one.  How bout' buying one without doing
any other engine mods, would it help a lot?  Thanks for any input.

Bret Gergely

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 13:52:03 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 14:39:19 -0500

"Vokac, Chuck" wrote:
>
> OK, check me if I've got this straight:
> The PILOT JET only affects fuel flow in idle and up to 1/8th throttle.  The
> MAIN JET only affects fuel flow beyond 3/4ths throttle.  The PILOT SCREW,
> NEEDLE DIAMETER, AND NEEDLE CLIP POSITION affects fuel flow all the way from
> idle through 3/4th throttle.  Since I will be using a JX needle and spring
> from Thumper Racing, I will be altering the PILOT SCREW (I'll adjust that
> myself), NEEDLE DIAMETER (skinnier or richer needle with more optimal taper
> will be provided by Thumper), AND NEEDLE CLIP POSITION (also set by
> Thumper).  Also, I will be installing a weaker spring (Thumper's) so the
> venturi will open quicker and throttle response will be faster.  Therefore,
> the only thing I won't be altering is the range from 3/4th to full throttle.
> If I have poor response or the bike runs lean in this range, I need a bigger
> MAIN JET (maybe a 140).  Does this sound right?

AFAIK, this is all accurate (with the possible correction that the NEEDLE
CLIP POSITION is easily set by you, the installer -- there are typically 5
positions for the clip).

I'll just add that to test these differing settings, you should:

1) Use an older plug (with "stuff" on the electrode that you can "read".)
2) Use a clean, oiled air filter
3) Mark your throttle so you can ride your bike for a few seconds at a
certain throttle position, e.g. half open.
4) The main jet should be set first, then the needle/position, etc.
5) Warm up the bike.  In 5th or 6th gear, run the engine WFO for a few
seconds, perhaps up a slight incline.
6) Simultaneously pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch.
7) Pull the plug
8) Burn your hands
9) "Read" the plug by examining the deposits on the ceramic insulator next
to the tip.  Desired color is "light brown".  "White" = lean; "Black" = rich
11) Dial in your main and then move on to 3/4 throttle position, etc.

I'm sending this to the list half in an effort to help out, and half to
validate my own understanding of jetting a bike.  I certainly welcome any
corrections to this procedure.

Thanks,
Bryan
'96 DR441
Roseville, CA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 14:03:33 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Anybody got a 435 kit from thumper

Bret,

I bought a bike with a White Bros 441 kit on it.  (I was planning on getting
a 350 and adding this kit, but then found this bike.)

This bike also has the Suzuki "Hi-Po" cam.

I can't really comment yet on reliability.  The previous owner only had it
done last July.  No problems so far, however.

The bike did run hot when I got it -- it was jetted way too lean.  I've
richened it out and am also running 50% race gas in an effort to keep it
running cool.

With all that, it's now running about as warm as I remember my stock '97
DR350SE running.

The bike starts and idles as well as I would expect any DR350 to (1st or 2nd
kick, hot or cold).

The power increase is substantial, across the entire rev range.  The
previous owner also installed an FMF Megamax exhaust, which, combined with
the cam, really helps the high-end.

I can't comment on the effectiveness of simply getting a hotter cam.

Summary:  If I had to do it all over again (even though I never did it the
first time :), I would.

Bryan
'96 DR441


Bret Gergely wrote:
>
> I am new to the list and I have a 95 DR350SE and 96 DR350S.  I drilled
> holes on both air boxes and they run great.  On the SE I took off almost
> all of the street crap.  I was wondering if anyone had a 435cc kit from
> thumper or any big bore kit.  I wanted to know about the reliability of
> it.  I was wondering if it came with a new camshaft if not how
> beneficial would it be too get one.  How bout' buying one without doing
> any other engine mods, would it help a lot?  Thanks for any input.
>
> Bret Gergely

------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #28
**************************