ftp.xmission.com/2014.06.ftp.xmission.com.tar/ftp.xmission.com/pub/lists/dr350/archive/v01.n018

Internet Message Format | 1999-04-13 | 17KB

From: [e-mail] (dr350-digest)
To: [e-mail]
Subject: dr350-digest V1 #18
Reply-To: dr350-digest
Sender: [e-mail]
Errors-To: [e-mail]
Precedence: bulk


dr350-digest         Wednesday, April 14 1999         Volume 01 : Number 018




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 00:37:13 -0400
From: Harald Glass <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Maintenance Weekend...

Bryan Cowger wrote:

>
> Here's a tip I figured out this weekend for those who don't have the Special
> Tool for the adjuster screw:  Take a short (~1") square-drive (Jorgenson?)

"Robertson" to be exact, now that the patent has run out, widely available
outside of Canada (one of the handiest fasteners for the handyman--you can
aim the driver in ANY direction, but you need special drivers or driverbits: the drivers
are colour coded, yellow for the tiniest, over green, red to black for the largest).

While we're on ingenious substitutes, I just found out that the OIL FILLER CAP
from my old VW Diesel Beetle, with two minute venting holes drilled top and
bottom, makes a very servicable alternative to the PITA factory lockable number.
Well, as long as you live in a neigbourhood where people don't mess with your
scooter AND you don't have the habit of riding Flying W style: the ridge on the
cap might alter your libido a bit.

cheers,
hpg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:15:51 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) dr 350 ideas?

PATRICK ANDERSON wrote:
>
> I am new to this,  but I will give it a try..  I have a 94 DR350es and I
> am trying to give it a good work over before this summer.  Aside form
> general maintenance,  I would like to get some tips on making it better
> suited to trail riding.  I live in the east, VA, (for now,)  and in my
> little bit of experience off road here,  have found new things I am not
> familiar with.  I am originally from Nevada,  and had areas to go riding
> right outside my back door,  wide open cruising,  desert mountains,  etc
> etc...  Now,  I have to search hard for places to ride,  and they are
> usually wet wooded areas,  with trees.  At any rate,  I still want to
> ride the bike to work,  and I dont want to spend eight billion dollars
> on things like cylinders and engine mods.  I would just like some
> affordable tips on making it a better bike.  Anything from tire
> suggestions to handle bar tips.  I hope I am not missing the aim of this
> email ring thing,  I hope I can get some good advice out of some
> knowledgeable people.  Thanks for your time,
> Respectfully,
> PJ Andersen
> By the way:  Anyone live around SE VA?  Lets ride sometime!
Patrick greetings from grants pass OR first put protapers and Applied
top triple clamps {handle bars} you will like them. dont Know if you are
riding on the highway if so you will have to get some dot approved
Knobbys if not I run a dunlop K490 on the front and a michelin mp11
intermediate on the rear. if you can find a white brothers mega 4 and
thier oversize header it will improve your power output but rejetting
will be necessary up a couple sizes on the main and check your plug
color should be chocolate brown.Boy do I carry on. If you want more info
let me know always willing to help. Jesse

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:13:35 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Ohlins shocks

Have any of your guy had any experence with Ohlins shocks

Tony

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:03:00 -0400
From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) dr 350 ideas?

Here's a couple of relatively inexpensive tips for improving the dr for the
east .
Put in a k&n airfilter.
Throw the stock handlebars out and get a set of 1991 honda cr250 aluminum
high bend bars. They have a much better riding position and won't smach the
top of your leg when your sitting on the bike and turn the handlebar all the
way.

Get a pair of Norm's kouba links (he's on the list) and if your more than
about 180lbs, get a new set of front and rear springs.
get a good set of knobbies and have some fun
 ----------
From: PATRICK ANDERSON
To: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) dr 350 ideas?
Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 11:47PM

I am new to this,  but I will give it a try..  I have a 94 DR350es and I
am trying to give it a good work over before this summer.  Aside form
general maintenance,  I would like to get some tips on making it better
suited to trail riding.  I live in the east, VA, (for now,)  and in my
little bit of experience off road here,  have found new things I am not
familiar with.  I am originally from Nevada,  and had areas to go riding
right outside my back door,  wide open cruising,  desert mountains,  etc
etc...  Now,  I have to search hard for places to ride,  and they are
usually wet wooded areas,  with trees.  At any rate,  I still want to
ride the bike to work,  and I dont want to spend eight billion dollars
on things like cylinders and engine mods.  I would just like some
affordable tips on making it a better bike.  Anything from tire
suggestions to handle bar tips.  I hope I am not missing the aim of this
email ring thing,  I hope I can get some good advice out of some
knowledgeable people.  Thanks for your time,
Respectfully,
PJ Andersen
By the way:  Anyone live around SE VA?  Lets ride sometime!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:07:03 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) suspension upgrades; new handlebars & tripple clamp; K&N filter

I'm considering sending my forks & shock to Thumper Raceing for their
revalve/respring job.  The total cost, excluding shipping, will be
$435.  Is this a good deal?  While I've never been into a fork/shock
in my life, I'm sure I could do most anything w/ good
instructions....but would it be worth the hassel & would it be as
good as what Thumper does?

Also...Thumper sells the ProTaper bars & Answer triple clamp for
around $230 total.  Will a guy like me (little off road experience
but getting more all the time; will do alot of DS touring) notice
much better handling from this investment?  Are there alternatives
that are as good/better/less $$?

Yesterday I got the K&N filter from Thumper, and their JX spring &
needle they recommend for the carb.  Installation of the spring &
needle was a snap!  But the freakin' filter!!!! I struggled with it
for at least an hour before I finally decided that the wing-bolt was
just too damn long to fit.  I called them to complain that they sent
me the wrong filter, & they said you had to take off the rubber boot
from airbox to carb in order to reach in from the engine side of teh
airbox to guide the wingbolt into the hole!!!  What a drag!  I dont
know why they still recommend the K&N knowing the hassel its going to
cause, or they should at least warn people that its not going to fit
w/o taking the carb boot off!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350se
98 ZX-6R (for sale $6K)

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:22:38 -0600
From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) suspension upgrades; new handlebars & tripple clamp;  K&N filter

>>Also...Thumper sells the ProTaper bars & Answer triple clamp for
around $230 total.  Will a guy like me (little off road experience
but getting more all the time; will do alot of DS touring) notice
much better handling from this investment?  Are there alternatives
that are as good/better/less $$?<<

I just purchased Pro Tapers and the universal kit from Fred Hink for my 99
DR350se, which will remain stock, by the way ;-).  I'll let you know how
they work when I get them on. I'm a mediocre off-road rider who invariably
picks the absolute worse line through rocky trails, so I figure the added
strength of the Pro Tapers is a plus.

Gino

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:29:06 -0600
From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) suspension upgrades; new handlebars & tripple clamp; K&N filter

Bryan:

> Yesterday I got the K&N filter from Thumper, and their JX spring &
> needle they recommend for the carb.  Installation of the spring &
> needle was a snap!  But the freakin' filter!!!! I struggled with it
> for at least an hour before I finally decided that the wing-bolt was
> just too damn long to fit.  I called them to complain that they sent
> me the wrong filter, & they said you had to take off the rubber boot
> from airbox to carb in order to reach in from the engine side of teh
> airbox to guide the wingbolt into the hole!!!  What a drag!  I dont
> know why they still recommend the K&N knowing the hassel its going to
> cause, or they should at least warn people that its not going to fit
> w/o taking the carb boot off!

I don't think it's absolutely necessary to remove the carb boot to get the
filter on. I ran a K&N for a while (I've replaced it with a Uni) and I got
the bolt in without doing so. It just takes forever. It is a major hassle
but it can be done by just "feeling" around with the end of the bolt.
Persevere!!

On Wednesday, April 14, 1999 10:07 AM, Bryan Nolastname
[SMTP:[e-mail]] wrote:
> I'm considering sending my forks & shock to Thumper Raceing for their
> revalve/respring job.  The total cost, excluding shipping, will be
> $435.  Is this a good deal?  While I've never been into a fork/shock
> in my life, I'm sure I could do most anything w/ good
> instructions....but would it be worth the hassel & would it be as
> good as what Thumper does?

I installed Race Tech's cartridge emulators and springs in my DR. It made a
huge difference. Total cost was about $200. I'm still working on the read
end. Bought an Eibach spring that I haven't had a chance to install yet.
Paid approx $80 for it. So far, doing the labor myself, I'm up to $280. If
I included the cost of a shock service, not to mention a revalve, I'd be
pretty close to the $435. So, my point is, depending on what they plan to
do, $435 may be pretty reasonable.

> Also...Thumper sells the ProTaper bars & Answer triple clamp for
> around $230 total.  Will a guy like me (little off road experience
> but getting more all the time; will do alot of DS touring) notice
> much better handling from this investment?  Are there alternatives
> that are as good/better/less $$?

If I were you, I'd just install some good bars (Renthals, for example) and
save the difference. Others may not agree but I don't think you'll get much
return on your investment with ProTaper and new triple clamps on the DR. At
least, not for the kind of riding you describe.

Mike Terrian
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:31:09 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) suspension upgrades; new handlebars & tripple clamp; K&N filter

Bryan,

Your year of DR does not have cartridge forks but rather the simpler damper rod
design; there is very little room for improvement within. Up front, the best
bang for your $ can be found with Race Tech emulators and stiffer springs (call
them for info or check their web site). On the rear, go with the Kouba link and
his recommended stiffer spring (7.6kg?) All of the aforementioned can be
installed by anyone with a basic mechanical aptitude, for less than the $ you
were quoted, with better ending results according to other DR owners.

I had the Answer upper clamp and ProTapers on mine; seemed to stiffen up the
front end somewhat, but not to the level I wanted for hard dirt work - sure drew
the attention of friends, though. The bars are a very good investment; stronger
yet not as rigid (some flex is intended) as the stockers. They make a bar and
adopters where you can reuse your existing upper clamp.

Gauze filters are not the hot ticket in dry, dusty conditions, like here in
SoCal. I prefer a UNI foam unit. You might try removing the top of your air box,
then remove the seat to have better access to the wing nut.

John




"Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]> on 04/14/99 09:07:03 AM

Please respond to "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>

To:   [e-mail]
cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)
Subject:  (dr350) suspension upgrades; new handlebars & tripple clamp; K&N
      filter




I'm considering sending my forks & shock to Thumper Raceing for their
revalve/respring job.  The total cost, excluding shipping, will be
$435.  Is this a good deal?  While I've never been into a fork/shock
in my life, I'm sure I could do most anything w/ good
instructions....but would it be worth the hassel & would it be as
good as what Thumper does?

Also...Thumper sells the ProTaper bars & Answer triple clamp for
around $230 total.  Will a guy like me (little off road experience
but getting more all the time; will do alot of DS touring) notice
much better handling from this investment?  Are there alternatives
that are as good/better/less $$?

Yesterday I got the K&N filter from Thumper, and their JX spring &
needle they recommend for the carb.  Installation of the spring &
needle was a snap!  But the freakin' filter!!!! I struggled with it
for at least an hour before I finally decided that the wing-bolt was
just too damn long to fit.  I called them to complain that they sent
me the wrong filter, & they said you had to take off the rubber boot
from airbox to carb in order to reach in from the engine side of teh
airbox to guide the wingbolt into the hole!!!  What a drag!  I dont
know why they still recommend the K&N knowing the hassel its going to
cause, or they should at least warn people that its not going to fit
w/o taking the carb boot off!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350se
98 ZX-6R (for sale $6K)

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 14:51:00 -0400
From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) pro taper bars

Could someone explain the benefit of protaper bars to me. I've always took
off stock bars and put on high bend aluminum bars, cut down to 30 inches.
The woods here on the east coast are tight.

Also, with no cross bar, where do you mount the route sheet holder and for
my occasional enduro, the clock and electric odometer ?

For a couple hundred bucks there should be some significant benefit.

Anyone got any input ?

Nick

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 13:23:05 -0600
From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) pro taper bars

According to a catalog in which Pro-Tapers are featured:

"Made from Easton EA-70 ProGram aluminum with exclusive taper wall design.
They are 30% lighter and 45% stronger than conventional aluminum bars due
to patented oversize 1 1/8" bulge design. No slip 1.125" clamp area
eliminates bar rotation. Pro-Taper bars flex more in an up and down motion,
yet are stronger and more secure in forward and aft direction."

Hope that helps.

Mike Terrian
'96 DR350SE

On Wednesday, April 14, 1999 12:51 PM, Sperduto, Nick
[SMTP:[e-mail]] wrote:
> Could someone explain the benefit of protaper bars to me. I've always
took
> off stock bars and put on high bend aluminum bars, cut down to 30 inches.
> The woods here on the east coast are tight.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 16:38:49 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) suspension upgrades; new handlebars & tripple clamp; K&N filter

 I agree that the K&N filter is a b*tch to service but it does a great job of
letting your bike breath easier. Try cutting out the top of your air box. You
will have an easier time with the wing nut and you will gain a couple of
ponies because of better air flow.

 As to your suspension try putting a set of Progressive springs on all three
legs set to your weight and riding style. Save the re-valve until you need
the seals replaced. By then you will a lot more about how you want your
suspension to handle. The springs are about $180.00 for all three and not to
difficult to change.
Progressive's phone # [phone].

 I have not had a chance to try them yet but I hear great things about the
Kouba links. Hope to have them on my bike soon.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2299/

 I like the Pro Taper bars but if you are looking to get maximum return for
your dollar you might think about putting your money into a good pipe and
silencer. I can't really recommend a particular one for your SE because I
have an off road only DR. My Big Gun
might be a little to loud for street use :) I am told that Mike is working on
a quitter silencer. You can give him a call and ask. Mike Young  (909)
948-7029 or http://www.biggunexhaust.com/.

Good luck with all of it.
Mike A.
Nashville

Disclaimer: The above info is the opinion of just one idiot and not
necessarily that of the other idiots.

------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #18
**************************