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dr350-digest          Thursday, April 8 1999          Volume 01 : Number 012




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Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 08:01:43 -0400
From: "Mike Harpster" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Seat height for short guys like me

Darren,
              I'm 5'9" 180 and with the pre-load adjustment in the middle of
it's range I could sit on the bike flat footed. I've since adjusted the
pre-load to the maximum and only my heels are off the ground.  Hope this
helps!

Mike

Darren Blin wrote:

> Hey folks
>
> This mailing list is a godsend! I have recently obtained my motorcycle
> license after a long absence of not riding (I used to put around the
> backwoods in 68 Yamaha mini-enduro when I was a young lad). Now, at the
> age of thirty, having never owned a vehicle of any type, I am looking at
> buying a DR350SE. My question is this: How comfortable is this bike with
> people around my height (5'8")? Will I be on my tip-toes when I put my
> feet out? How much can you adjust the "pre-load" to accommodate your
> stature? Maybe some DR350SE bike owners out there who are around my
> height could inform me.
>
> Set me straight please.
>
> Darren Blin
> Bikeless in Toronto Canada
>
> 1998 Size 10 Airwalks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 09:04:43 -0400
From: "Dennis Lever" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) DR350 Mods

Hi,

I bought my 95 DR350SE in Sept of 97 for $3800 Cdn or about $2500 US.  It
had 8000 miles but most was road, so it was in pretty good shape.  As it is
the first bike I have owned with electric start, I was very nervous.  All my
others have been pure off-road kickstart.
The battery was weak so it was one of the first changes.  I have not had a
problem with the "E", but I'm still nervous.
I cut the top off the airbox to see if that would help the power.  I didn't
want to spend all that money on the CycleGear box.  The engine was real
lean, even before this, so I changed the main jet from 127 to 132.5 The
manual said stock was 135 but I know the previous owner never changed it.  I
also raised the needle as high as it would go.  It's a lot better now.
I changed the gearing from 15/41 to 14/43.  I set up a spreadsheet to
determine the ratios so that at about 5000 rpm I would be doing about 50
mph.  I wanted to make sure that it was low as about 50% of my riding is on
single track in the woods.  I also think this is the same as the dirt only
DR.
I also removed all the extras, mud flap, passenger pegs etc.  I put the
plate directly on the fender.
280 plus pounds was more than I wanted to put up on a stand, so I made up a
lift from a 2-1/4 ton hydraulic floor jack on wheels that I bought new for
~$20.  This is a lot more stable than it sounds.  I just glued 3 pieces of
3/4"x12"x14" plywood pieces together and attached them with a carriage bolt.
It was fairly easy and now I can get the bike off both wheels just holding
the handlebar and pumping the jack.  It actually gets more stable as you
raise it higher.  You just have to remember to hold the handlebar when you
lower it back down or lookout!
The other thing that made me nervous was having to use a key, so I cut a
piece of double sided velcro down the middle so that it was only about 1/4"
wide.  I put it through the key and tied a knot.  The loose ends are joined
around the crossbar when riding but come off easy to leave or add gas.
The only things that I keep a close eye on are the bolts holding the forks
in the triple clamps.  For some odd reason they seem to loosen up whenever I
ride is sandy conditions.  Has anybody else seen this?  I haven't tried
locktite yet.
Spring has arrived here so soon....

Dennis
Guelph Ontario
Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 07:44:46 -0600
From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Finally found one!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Thursday, April 08, 1999 12:05 AM
Subject: (dr350) Finally found one!


>Hallelujah!!!  I finally found a used DR!

Good for you!

>Now, I'm off to read the archives about aftermarket goodies to start
>making my list!  I know there's alot of talk over which tank (IMS,
>CLark, Acerbis) is best....anyone want to make a recommendation here?
> -which is largest capacity?

I think both the Acerbis and the Clarke are 4.25 gallons and the IMS is 4.0


I have all three tanks scanned.  If anyone wants to see them let me know.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 08:07:39 -0600
From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) RE: kick stand switch

Bryant:


Bryant Wang wrote:
> You removed your kick stand switch, huh? I was thinking of doing
> that my self. Did you just remove the switch and wires up to the
> harness altogether or did you have to make a jumper connection or
> something?

I guess I'm starting to lose it; I can't remember that far back (6 months)
anymore. I know I removed the switch and wires up to the harness connector.
I even sawed off the bracket on the frame that held the switch and the tab
on the kickstand that actuated it. I can't remember exactly what I did
where the wires ended but I do remember that the solution was fairly
obvious. I'm pretty sure all I had to do was cut the wires right behind the
connector (near the horn) and wrap and tape them together.

Mike Terrian
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 10:26:50 -0400
From: "Dennis Lever" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) kick stand switch

I'm pretty sure all I had to do was cut the wires right behind the
connector (near the horn) and wrap and tape them together.

I did this too, but make sure you solder the wires.  It is an interlock and
if any corrosion or dirt gets in, the bike won't start.

Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 07:33:45 -0700
From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) RE: kick stand switch

Michael Terrian wrote:

> I guess I'm starting to lose it; I can't remember that far back (6 months)
> anymore. I know I removed the switch and wires up to the harness connector.
> I even sawed off the bracket on the frame that held the switch and the tab
> on the kickstand that actuated it. I can't remember exactly what I did
> where the wires ended but I do remember that the solution was fairly
> obvious. I'm pretty sure all I had to do was cut the wires right behind the
> connector (near the horn) and wrap and tape them together.

  What about the clutch switch?  Anybody else remove that one?  I
couldn't stand having to hold the clutch in whenever I went to start it,
so I soldered that one together.  Now I can use the starter if I want
the bike to crawl up a hill :-)  (No, I haven't done that...).

- --
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 08:53:58 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Finally found one!

>out-the-door price of a new 99 SE.  With the lower initial investment,
>I figure I will be able to put alot more goodies on it without feeling
>guilty about blowing more $ (wife factor)...maybe even a Thumper
>big-bore kit!


I was in the same dilemma especially because of the cartridge forks on the '98-'99...I feel a
lot better after Bob Bell told me he'll put a cartridge fork in my '97 for under $500..

>99 SE was $4751.  One seemingly honest dealer told me his invoice cost
>on the 99 SE was $4006.

That is true...I paid $10 to find out...
>
>Now, I'm off to read the archives about aftermarket goodies to start
>making my list!

Not much there yet but give us a year and it'll be full of pearls and gems...we need people to
not be bashful and share some of there experiences so that the list can build up its own base
of knowledge...and then go beyond...

 I know there's alot of talk over which tank (IMS,
>CLark, Acerbis) is best....anyone want to make a recommendation here?
> -which is largest capacity?


I bought the Acerbis from Fred Hink and so did Gino...we were both following the advice of
Eldon Carl who rights lovingly abut the DR350S in Dual Sport News...

>Finally, anyone know of any particular quirks on the 95 SE's that I
>should pay special attention to when I go to see the bike tomorrow?


none...

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 07:53:11 -0700
From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> George,
>
> The swingarms are the same; the shocks: different, not in o/a length when
> extended but when compressed - the dirt version gains 1" net greater travel @
> the rear axle.
>
> Us non-elect., dirt-only folks will let you gladly keep your button; we like our
> pumper carbs. I have to keep an eye on my DRS buds so they don't take that piece
> of gold when I'm not looking.
>
> John

Hiya John!  Imagine meeting you here :-)

  So why are you comparing the electric start to carbs?  Are you saying
that the electric start models can't have the carb changed to a pumper
type?

  BTW, excuse my ignorance but what is a pumper carb?  I've heard of
slide carbs and Constant Velocity (which the DRSE has), but not a pumper
carb.

  sTeVe recommnded going with the WB carb kit and Cycle Gear air box
before he turned into a DR hater :-)

  Ya know, they say ex-smokers are a smokers worst nightmare, I wonder
if that applies to ex-DR owners also...

- --
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 08:57:21 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Gear Calc...

Anyone wanting to really calculate the effect of a gear change would be wise to download Pat
Hensley's GearCalc program from

www.ironjungle.com

Pat drives a KLR and is a great enthusiast...

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 09:01:02 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) NDR...examples...

A follow-up on my request for NDR in the subject line and how filters work...my morning mail
contained  143 messages. Only 4 ended up in my inbox. The rest were sorted into: GS - 19
messages....Majordomo - 34 messages...NKLR....20 messages...KLR...39 messages. and the rest in
DR...

The KLR list received 59 messages from last night until this morning...for those using NKLR as
a filter...they only saw 39.

Please use NDR....

Kurt

Keep spreading the word we're about to go over 100 subscribers...thanks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 10:31:24 -0500
From: "chasmatic" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people

Damn, my '94 DRSE? will no longer do the trick.  I gotta have one of them
there SEX ones!


- -----Original Message-----
From: Susan J. Merrill <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Wednesday, April 07, 1999 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people


>
>> > I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know.
>
>Oh, I thought it was a clever advertising ploy - a DR350 "SEX" ;)
>
>Susan
>
> (This post represents my opinion and not that of JPL.)
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 11:00:38 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Xmlistadmin...

For those who may be receiving messages from [e-mail] I would like to alert you
to how to unsubscribe. You may be on this list because of erroneous subscription info for DR350
or KLR650.

To unsubscribe from [e-mail] send a message from the email account you are
subscribed with to:

[e-mail]

Leave the subject blank.

In the body type

unsubscribe xmlistadmin

Sorry for the inconvenience...

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 12:05:37 -0500 (CDT)
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: Re: (dr350) Kouba links...

On 03/19/99 08:26:58 you wrote:
>
>Norm, I'm hoping you read this...we had a lister on an affilitated list,
i.e., DUST
>asking about your Kouba Links. Can you give a summary of why you developed
them and
>what they can and can't accomplish?
>
Kurt


In the begining we tried many different shim stacks, shock oils, and spring
rates, nothing gave us the results we were looking for.  Those results
being, plush on the small bumps, firm up on the mogals, and most of all
minimize that dreaded sidways kick caused by violent bottoming of the rear
when traveling at excessive speeds of over 25mph on dirt.

In stock form, and the sag being set at 3.9", the rocker angle is almost
perpendicular to the pivot point, thus riding in the most progressive part
of the arc and causing harshness on small bumps and bottoming on larger
ones, as when the rocker continues over center, progression gets less and
less the farther the suspension compresses. Then bang, it reaches the stop
on the shock, and over the bars we go as the stop has no sign of rebound
control.

To address these traits, we had to either change the configuration of the
rocker, the links, or the pivot points.  The simplest and least costly being
changing the working length of the links. (Sometimes referred to as "Dog
Bones") After building and trying many different lengths, we settled on one
size for most riders, but we build 3 different lengths for specific
conditions and or riding styles.  Most riders over 175lbs will require a
heavier spring unless improved twotrac is in the majority of the riding.

The longer links give a much plusher ride everywhere, increases usable
travel, all but eliminates the rear kick, and only lowers the seat height
when the swingarm is fully extended making getting on and off easier, not to
mention it will no longer highside over the sidestand when you dismount. The
laden seat height will remain the same when the reccomened sag of 2.5" is
used.

If the links are used for lowering purposes only, the sag can be set at 3.9"
if the front is lowered by 1.25" to stay close to the stock geometry.

The links will fit 90 thru 99 Suzuki DR350 and DR350SE model bikes ONLY.

The down side of the links is in the mogals, fall of plain and this 300lb
motorcycle is going to hurt you.  The upside is without the links most
riders cannot get on plain. The facts are, these links are the best single
improvement we have made to the DR to date but are not perfect for all
conditions and riders. Another downside is under full compression, ground
clearance is 1.5" less. (Easier to case it.)

Now that I have told everyone how they work here comes the pitch.  We give a
30 day money back return policy and to date only one customer returned the
links. He said they were not compatable for his 260lb superstructure. The
links are hand machined out of 6061 T6 aluminium and have not experienced a
failure to date.  For those of you who want to motorcross your DR we cannot
help, but for those who ride Enduros or Baja type riding these links are a
must, your backside will thank you everynight.

Many thanks to Kurt Simpson, who started the dr350 list and has put
countless hrs
into its inception. Thanks  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
HTTP://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
Phone [phone]




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 10:11:24 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Introduction

Hello all,

I was certainly happy to find this list yesterday (thanks John).  I've owned
two DRs now, and continue to believe that they are great trail bikes.

My first was a '97 DR350SE that I bought new.  The suspension mods I did
were:

- - Racetech cartridge fork emulators
- - .46 kg/mm front springs
- - Kouba links on the rear
- - 7.6 kg/mm rear spring (I'm about 210 lbs)

These four things really brought the suspension a long way.  They would
definitely be the first things I'd do to a DR, especially w/ the damping rod
forks.

I ended up only riding this bike in the dirt, so I sold it and bought a '96
DR441.  The previous owner had made these mods:

- - WB did the 441 modification
- - His dealer installed the Suzuki Hi-Po cam
- - FMF Megamax exhaust
- - Racetech re-valved both the forks and the shock, installing Gold Valves
front and rear
- - Protapers w/ billet triple clamp
- - Lightened the rear end by removing a lot of the metal structure and
installing an RM fender

I've made these mods:

- - Installed a mtn bike computer (based on the instructions at
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/1501/harvanek.htm.  Instead of the KDX
method shown, I drilled a small hole in the rotor and installed rare-earth
magnets in that -- ended up being a pretty clean installation.)
- - Stronger clutch springs
- - Went from the stock 127.5 main jet to 137.5 so far -- it's still not too
rich


Now I'd like to:

- - Install a Scotts Steering Stablizer
- - Get the jetting dialed in (love that pumper -- great *snap*!!)
- - Revalve the front and rear suspension (I weigh ~40 lbs more than the
previous owner.)
- - Install a Jagg oil cooler.


Questions that I have:

- - Has anyone installed a Scotts SS with Protapers?
- - Has anyone installed a Jagg?

On the latter, I've looked at the instructions, and its definitely a
kludge.  Any help here would be greatly appreciated!

I'm in the Sacramento, CA area, and generally ride Georgetown, Foresthill,
Mammoth Bar, and Hollister.  And I'm definitely open to road trips!

Regards,
Bryan Cowger
[e-mail]

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End of dr350-digest V1 #12
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