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dr-digest            Tuesday, March 7 2000            Volume 01 : Number 059



Re: (dr) DR Air screw
Re: (dr) DR Air screw
Re: (dr) Rear springs
(dr) Rear springs
(dr) DRZ400 users group
RE: (dr) DR Air screw
RE: (dr) DR Air screw
(dr) Reply : hp charts
RE: (dr) Reply : hp charts
RE: (dr) DR Air screw

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 14:42:45 -0800 (PST)
From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR Air screw

Steve, the DRZ with an aftermarket pipe will put up
numbers just as high as a YZF400 with a pipe.The DRZ's
powerband is much broader as the YZF's hp peaks
sharply(this would feel more snappy).On open trails
i'd rather the DRZ and for MX the YZF.An XR 400 does
not have 10 more hp than the DR350.My buddy has a
brand new Y2K XR400 and with my DR wich has Jesse's
airbox FMF powercore4 muffler JX needle and spring kit
and a 147.5 main jet and we run dead even.The above
add ons made me more power but not 10hp.If my bike
weighed what his does I would beat him the above combo
is a fierce wake up for a stock DR.

- --- Bryan Ply <[e-mail]> wrote:
> "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > my question today is for a 98 DR350SE, CV carb.
> >
> > Which way do you turn the airscrew to richen the
> mixture ? surely turning it
> > in (clockwise) reduces the airflow and makes it
> richer ?
>
> On the pomper carb clockwise = richer, and
> counterclockwise = leaner.
> Most of the carbs that I have experience with are
> like this.
> >
> > I ask because I have seen the opposite on some
> emails and websites. And the
> > screw on the electric start is impossible to get
> to unless you tilt the carb
> > and even then its impossible to do it accurately,
> so I want to know the
> > truth !
> >
> > And another thing - I've seen dyno graphs that
> show DR350 25 hp, XR400 35 hp
> > - is this difference true ?
>
> The thing that I have figured out with the dyno
> charts, there are tow
> ways to measure hp, at the engine, or at the rear
> wheel.  If you are
> trying to compare the DR and XR hp, make sure they
> are measured the same
> exact way.  Another question that this might pose if
> the DR is geared at
> 15/41, and the XR is geared at 15/44 does that have
> an impact on the hp
> charts.
> >
> > And what rear wheel hp is the DR-Z supposed to be
> putting out ?
>
> I have heard in the high 30's to low 40's, but I
> figure that is at the
> engine, and does not count for the loss of hp
> through the drivetrain.
> >
> > And why is it always raining here (UK) ????
>
> Cant help you there, but it is the best time to do a
> little preventive
> maintainance on the bike.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > -
> >
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 14:42:45 -0800 (PST)
From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR Air screw

Steve, the DRZ with an aftermarket pipe will put up
numbers just as high as a YZF400 with a pipe.The DRZ's
powerband is much broader as the YZF's hp peaks
sharply(this would feel more snappy).On open trails
i'd rather the DRZ and for MX the YZF.An XR 400 does
not have 10 more hp than the DR350.My buddy has a
brand new Y2K XR400 and with my DR wich has Jesse's
airbox FMF powercore4 muffler JX needle and spring kit
and a 147.5 main jet and we run dead even.The above
add ons made me more power but not 10hp.If my bike
weighed what his does I would beat him the above combo
is a fierce wake up for a stock DR.

- --- Bryan Ply <[e-mail]> wrote:
> "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > my question today is for a 98 DR350SE, CV carb.
> >
> > Which way do you turn the airscrew to richen the
> mixture ? surely turning it
> > in (clockwise) reduces the airflow and makes it
> richer ?
>
> On the pomper carb clockwise = richer, and
> counterclockwise = leaner.
> Most of the carbs that I have experience with are
> like this.
> >
> > I ask because I have seen the opposite on some
> emails and websites. And the
> > screw on the electric start is impossible to get
> to unless you tilt the carb
> > and even then its impossible to do it accurately,
> so I want to know the
> > truth !
> >
> > And another thing - I've seen dyno graphs that
> show DR350 25 hp, XR400 35 hp
> > - is this difference true ?
>
> The thing that I have figured out with the dyno
> charts, there are tow
> ways to measure hp, at the engine, or at the rear
> wheel.  If you are
> trying to compare the DR and XR hp, make sure they
> are measured the same
> exact way.  Another question that this might pose if
> the DR is geared at
> 15/41, and the XR is geared at 15/44 does that have
> an impact on the hp
> charts.
> >
> > And what rear wheel hp is the DR-Z supposed to be
> putting out ?
>
> I have heard in the high 30's to low 40's, but I
> figure that is at the
> engine, and does not count for the loss of hp
> through the drivetrain.
> >
> > And why is it always raining here (UK) ????
>
> Cant help you there, but it is the best time to do a
> little preventive
> maintainance on the bike.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > -
> >
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 19:50:06 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Rear springs

Hello Jesse... Norm...
 Do I use a 7.6kg rear spring... the Eibach 983 series... if I'm not using
the Kouba link??? What weight if I go back to the link (it seemed too plush)
. Also the rear shock is a Progressive 420 using a 58/53 mm spring
(progressive and too soft @350 to 390lbs which is around 6.5kg) will the 983
series fit? I'm 210 with gear.. ocassional passenger@ 80lbs!!

Thanks.. Guy

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 21:46:55 -0700
From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Rear springs

Guy,

The 6.5KG rear spring should be about right for your weight WITHOUT the Kouba
links, (heaven forbid)  I have not had much experience with the progressive
shock and do not have one to try, but believe the shock body is a little larger
OD, but assume the Eibach 983 series spring will still work.  If the Eibach
Spring  fits, by all means us it if you stay with the Kouba Links and set the
sag at 2.5 inchs.  If not use the stock links with the 6.5kg Progressive spring
and set the sag at 3.75 to 3.9 inchs. Thats about as good as it gets. Let me
know if that Eibach spring fits that Progressive shock.
Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299



[e-mail] wrote:

> Hello Jesse... Norm...
>  Do I use a 7.6kg rear spring... the Eibach 983 series... if I'm not using
> the Kouba link??? What weight if I go back to the link (it seemed too plush)
> . Also the rear shock is a Progressive 420 using a 58/53 mm spring
> (progressive and too soft @350 to 390lbs which is around 6.5kg) will the 983
> series fit? I'm 210 with gear.. ocassional passenger@ 80lbs!!
>
> Thanks.. Guy
>






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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 07:17:52 -0600
From: "Gray, Perry" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DRZ400 users group

Hey everybody I have just started a DRZ400 users group at onelist.com. Check
it out http://www.onelist.com/group/DRZ400 come on by and post a message.


Thanks

Perry DRZ400, DR350, XR650L


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:56:00 -0000
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw

Hmmmmm......

as I suspected a few opposing views ! When I first got the bike I played
around with the "xx" screw and turned it out to lean it to try and smooth
out the on/off throttle chain snatch. It appeared to lean it anyway, and I
noticed this winter when it was very cold that it runs too lean until the
engines really hot.  So I still suspect its an air screw but I'll have a
look tonight at where it is and if the handbook mentions anything.

By the way, the original chain snatch problem I was trying to fix used to
really annoy me, and drove me mad when running the bike in (no cush-drive on
the later models). I have since discovered that a good thrash through the
gears, once warm, really smoothes things out. In fact the hotter the bike
gets the faster and smoother it feels - lots of low gear straining through
thick mud does the trick though it worries me how the oil copes (hence I use
synthetic).

Thanks for the views on hp - I would love to see some honest dyno graphs for
the air box mod and the vortex box - some very high power gains have been
made, but I am forever suspicious !


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 09:06:27 -0600
From: "Gray, Perry" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw

If you don't believe about the airbox then take the side cover off and ride
it with stock jetting. Mine would not run past half throttle. I stopped at a
152.5 main. I now use a 155 main. That is with a supertrapp exhuast with 8
disks.

Perry





> ----------
> From:     Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)
> Sent:     Tuesday, March 07, 2000 8:56 AM
> To:     'd r'
> Subject:     RE: (dr) DR Air screw
>
> Hmmmmm......
>
> as I suspected a few opposing views ! When I first got the bike I played
> around with the "xx" screw and turned it out to lean it to try and smooth
> out the on/off throttle chain snatch. It appeared to lean it anyway, and I
> noticed this winter when it was very cold that it runs too lean until the
> engines really hot.  So I still suspect its an air screw but I'll have a
> look tonight at where it is and if the handbook mentions anything.
>
> By the way, the original chain snatch problem I was trying to fix used to
> really annoy me, and drove me mad when running the bike in (no cush-drive
> on
> the later models). I have since discovered that a good thrash through the
> gears, once warm, really smoothes things out. In fact the hotter the bike
> gets the faster and smoother it feels - lots of low gear straining through
> thick mud does the trick though it worries me how the oil copes (hence I
> use
> synthetic).
>
> Thanks for the views on hp - I would love to see some honest dyno graphs
> for
> the air box mod and the vortex box - some very high power gains have been
> made, but I am forever suspicious !
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 17:27:03 +0100
From: "Christophe Charlot" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Reply : hp charts

Hello everyone, I'm a new member of this list, cause I just bought a 98'
DR350, that I ride in the south of France.

I noticed you talked about dyno charts and so on. I've been working for
FUCHS, a small company based in Montpellier, France, that competes Dynojet
in Europe.

The Fuchs blue dyno is much more precise and secure (don't be upset guys
!!). You have no straps to keep the bike in good position on the dyno, but
an hydraulic system that holds the front wheel.

About hp now, I've tested 4 days ago my DR (with no modifications), cause I
wanted to figure out if the 30 hp were still there after 2 years. The
results are :

- - crankshaft power : 30.0 (can't do better !!)
- - gearbox power : 27.9
- - rear wheel : 25.1

Most of the time, the power difference between engine and rear wheel is
about 20%.

Be careful with dynos that only give rear wheel power, because the rear
wheel power depends of the "shape" of the tire and the chain&sprocket. The
advantage of the Fuchs dyno is that the sofware takes in account this
parameters, and also the temperature and air presure.

The only case when you can use the rear wheel power is this one :
- - you make a test on the dyno, you make a modification on your bike
(exhaust, carb, ....), you make another test, and you compare. That's all.
So this kind of bench can be useful for people who races for example.

The transmission (14x43 or 15x50 or whatever) is not a problem, because the
sofware of every dyno is supposed to ask it you  !!

Hoping you were able to understand my english !!
And if you wanna by a Fuchs dyno, tell me !! (it's about $20,000). I think
there are many Fuchs dynos in the UK, aren't there ?

Bye
Christophe CHARLOT



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 15:46:02 -0600
From: Eric Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Reply : hp charts

I'll trade you four Fuchs rims for one Fuchs Dyno...sounds fair to me...you get four things I get one.

Eric

- ----------
From:     Christophe Charlot

And if you wanna by a Fuchs dyno, tell me !! (it's about $20,000). I think
there are many Fuchs dynos in the UK, aren't there ?



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 15:51:55 -0800 (PST)
From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw

- --- "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
wrote:
> Thanks for the views on hp - I would love to see
> some honest dyno graphs for
> the air box mod and the vortex box - some very high
> power gains have been
> made, but I am forever suspicious !
>
There is no need at all to be suspect of Jesse's
airbox it works period.I'd love to let you ride my
stock bore bike.There is a world of difference between
my bike and my buddys totally stock bike.Listen you do
not go from a 127.5 to a 147.5 main jet without some
major air flow.


__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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------------------------------

End of dr-digest V1 #59
***********************

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