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2000-02-09
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From: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr-digest)
To: dr-digest@lists.xmission.com
Subject: dr-digest V1 #31
Reply-To: dr-digest
Sender: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com
Errors-To: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com
Precedence: bulk
dr-digest Thursday, February 10 2000 Volume 01 : Number 031
RE: (dr) DR prices etc.
Re: (dr) DR350 fork springs
(dr) RE: DR prices etc.
(dr) bieffe helmets
(dr) Spokes
Re: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
Re: (dr) drz400e
Re: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma
(dr) DR350S jet kits etc.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 15:35:44 -0000
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: RE: (dr) DR prices etc.
We pay pound for dollar for most things in the UK, which is a bit of a
bast*rd since the exchange rate is =A3 * 1.6 / $. We pay =A33.30 =
($5.30) for a
gallon of unleaded, which is about 80% tax. UK gallons are 4.42 =
litres...is
that the same as US gallons?
Andy the pauper
Exploited citizen of that funny little lump lying off the East Coast
(Europe, to those of you holding your maps upside down)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> Sent: 09 February 2000 15:20
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: (dr) DR prices etc.
>=20
> Hi, I hope somebody finds this interesting
>=20
> I'd like to explain a little, why is it important, that in Finland =
DR's
> have
> 3 years guarantee.
> In the US new DRZ 400 dual sport pays about 6000$, am I right?
> In Finland same bike costs registerated nearly 12000 US dollars (No, =
i'm
> not
> kidding, it's a real nightmare)
> Main reason is extremely high taxes in bike prices and partly due =
current
> jen rate
> Same taxes with gasoline, one US gallon gas is about 4$
> (Yep, i'm glad that I ride DR not Chevrolet)
>=20
> One thing I see more negative in America,
> your OHV laws seem to be really strict,
> yes, we do have laws too but here I can choose
> pretty freely many of the thousands of miles forest roads and trails
> and go riding
> I see it this way with OHV laws, little land-little problems,
> (well, maybe not in England), and partly because
> dirt bikes are not very common here
> It feels strange, but here in northern Finland most guys
> want to ride street bikes despite of great offroad possibilities
>=20
> Mikko Vimpari from expensive Finland
> '97 DR350SE
> '92 Yamaha wr250
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 12:11:47 -0500
From: "Mark Sims" <msims@nortelnetworks.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 fork springs
Hi,
My springs are also the Progressive Suspension types. Thanks for
the feedback.
I plan to start with the stock-recommended oil weight and height
and probably a spacer of 1 inch (after comparing the length of
the new spring with the stock).
From Norm's email, it sounds like I want to keep preload to about
3/8". How will changing the oil height affect the characteristic
of the spring?
Mark
Wayne Marsula' wrote:
>
> Mark and Norm,
> I didn't see where you said what kind of springs you bought.
> Progressive Suspension lists with their spring a spacer of 1" for the
> 1998 model. I just checked it myself, as I ordered springs for my 98.
> FWIW,
> Wayne Marsula'
> Escondido, CA
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 21:56:25 +0200
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) RE: DR prices etc.
Thanks for replying guys
Maybe I miscalculated that gas price,
i'll try to put it this way, it's about three times
more expensive than in the US
I must admit, that dirt only DRZ400
pays "only" about 8000$US(because taxes are not paid)
but you can't ride it on public roads( can't register it)
and i think, there's no any guarantee included.
So, you want to dual sport here, pay that extra 4000$
People are importing bikes especially from Germany,
but they face same dilemma,register it-pay taxes.
If you work abroad over one year,you can bring bike
tax-free.
Sorry, if i sound bitter,did not mean it
Thank you for sympathy
Mikko
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 16:24:26 -0500
From: "The Clouser Family" <clouser@innernet.net>
Subject: (dr) bieffe helmets
Steve, I own a Bieffe 3-sport helmet. I like the helmet and the price of it,
but I wouldn't purchase it for the following reasons: The shield only lifts
half way and scratches very easily. I have tried to purchase extra shields
through Bieffe and through Dennis Kirk where I purchased the helmet. I
didn't have any luck with either dealer. I found Don Locke at
dlocke@matrixsports.com. He was supposed to have shields. I ordered them
with my charge card, but haven't received them yet, and I gave up after 4-6
months. From bieffe's instructions to remove the shield you must pry with a
screwdriver gently. It did not not work and pieces of my helmet broke(CHEAP
you get what you pay for). I stayed with the helmet, but bought Scott no-fog
goggles to replace the shield, and I'm very pleased.
Jim
1998 DR650SE
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 18:40:14 -0800
From: "Bill Zucker" <billz@tns.net>
Subject: (dr) Spokes
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_012E_01BF732D.1A9BBD80
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Guys,
A straightforward and foolproof way to adjust your spokes is to:
1. Find a new bike the same as yours and hit the spokes with a bit of =
metal. The fronts will sound a different tone than the rears, but each =
spoke should have the same tone on each rim, indicating the same tension =
(simple physics, given identical spokes).
2. Bring a tuner or harmonica or guitar or whatever, and note the tones =
produced by the average front and average rear.
3. Adjust each of your spokes to that same note. A slight twist (just =
enough to break the friction) is all that's required to change the =
tension (and note) to a detectably different pitch.
Obviously, if you're (notice that I must be the first human on the =
Internet every to use the word "you're" correctly!) tone deaf, get =
someone else to do it. After less than a year my '99 DR650 had quite a =
few different tones going, but after a couple of minutes (and =
iterations, because all tensions are interconnected) I can be assured =
the spokes are now equally and correctly tensioned. Getting the note =
from the newest bike possible raises the probability that the overall =
tension level is what the factory recommends.
Bill
- ------=_NextPart_000_012E_01BF732D.1A9BBD80
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Guys,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>A straightforward and foolproof way to adjust your =
spokes is=20
to:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>1. Find a new bike the same as yours and hit the =
spokes with a=20
bit of metal. The fronts will sound a different tone than the rears, but =
each=20
spoke should have the same tone on each rim, indicating the same tension =
(simple=20
physics, given identical spokes).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>2. Bring a tuner or harmonica or guitar or whatever, =
and note=20
the tones produced by the average front and average rear.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>3. Adjust each of your spokes to that same note. A =
slight=20
twist (just enough to break the friction) is all that's required to =
change the=20
tension (and note) to a detectably different pitch.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Obviously, if you're (notice that I must be the =
first human on=20
the Internet every to use the word "you're" correctly!) tone deaf, get =
someone=20
else to do it. After less than a year my '99 DR650 had quite a few =
different=20
tones going, but after a couple of minutes (and iterations, because all =
tensions=20
are interconnected) I can be assured the spokes are now equally and =
correctly=20
tensioned. Getting the note from the newest bike possible raises the =
probability=20
that the overall tension level is what the factory =
recommends.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Bill</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
- ------=_NextPart_000_012E_01BF732D.1A9BBD80--
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:45:05 +0100
From: Markus LIndrgen <muslin96@student.umu.se>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
Hi Mikko!
About the needle:
I`m not sure but I think that the first number is a serial number, cd is
the taper in degrees. This needle has two different tapers, c is the upper
one and d the lower. The numbers at the end is about its outer diameter. At
least this is the case on tmx needles. If the number ends with, say 55,
this means that the outer diameter is 2,55mm. A lower number means that the
needle is richer because the difference between the needle jet and jet
needle gets bigger.
Markus
Skellefte=E5, Sweden
At 21.56 2000-02-05 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote:
>Hi
>Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions.
>Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened
clutchcover yet)
>If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new
ones,when changing worn friction plates,
>or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed.
>
>How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my
stock 5cd27
>
>I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions.
>
>
Thanks for the great list
>
>
Mikko from Finland
>
DR350SE-97
>
yamaha wr250-92
>
>Attachment Converted: "A:\EUDORA\(dr)350S"
>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:02:28 +0100
From: Markus LIndrgen <muslin96@student.umu.se>
Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e
Hi=20
A bike loose about 13 % of it=B4s power from the crank to the rear wheel.
Only 31 hp was still a very low number. I=B4ve seen power curves of DR 350
and it puts out 25 hp. But you can take a look at http://mcnews.com.au.
Under "tests" all curious can read about the dr-z. They=B4ve also included a
power curve (or whatever the word is)both stock(41hp) and with a modified
exhaust(45hp I think it was). At www.motorcycle.com you can find another
test of the dr-z. Look under "offroad".=20
Markus
At 22.12 2000-02-05 -0500, Steven McGarry wrote:
>
>
>
>
>i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz 400e and they put it on a
>dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear wheel.
>a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47.
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:09:33 +0100
From: Markus LIndrgen <muslin96@student.umu.se>
Subject: Re: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma
Hi Jim
I suggest that you try to find the april -99 issue of Dirt Rider. Maybe
some of your friends has it? They tested exhaust pipes and complete systems
on an XR 400 and they both described how the bike felt with the different
pipes mounted and showed the hp numbers from the dyno. Very interesting
reading.
Markus
Sweden
At 12.04 2000-02-06 -0500, jnugent wrote:
>Hello,
>I have come to find out that the fmf mega max has been discontinued. I
have tried all
>the mail order places but no one has any left in stock. Does anyone know
were I
>could find one? Or does anyone know of a suitable replacement? I was thinking
>about the supertrapp IDS 2,anyone have any experience with this pipe? I have
>a 97 350 se and am going to modify the stock box and install a carb kit
from Thumper. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks, Jim Nugent
>
>
>Attachment Converted: "A:\EUDORA\(dr)dr35"
>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 18:21:36 +0200
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) DR350S jet kits etc.
Thank you for information Markus, I have forgotten to thank Norm,
Jesse,Pablo, sorry, thank you also (and people not mentioned here)
Apologies to people, who are fed up with me, I seem to write every day (long
winter)
I know you have probably been talking around this subject maybe 100
times,but once
again,
which one is better bargain; Factory jet kit or Dynojet kit
Do you get same amount of jets, any other differencies?
My friend has '98 DR650SE, he installed self-made skid plate to his bike
last summer, he didn't bore vent holes to the plate.
Soon he was complaining on warm days,"engine is getting so hot,
it's actually losing power", I know it's not bike's fault
those vent holes seem to be essential.
Suzuki dealer changed cam chain tensioner to his bike under warranty.
Bike was ridden 2000 miles and tensioner was getting noisy(rare failure?)
Thanks for patience
Mikko "snowman" Vimpari
'97 DR350SE
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------------------------------
End of dr-digest V1 #31
***********************
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